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From the dry chaco with its distinctive
avifauna, to the southernmost cloudforests in the Andes, to the high
altiplano with its flamingo-studded lakes, this tour offers a
fascinating variety of habitats and birds. There is a huge number of
different species for birders who have only visited the north Andean
countries, with evocative names like earthcreepers, brushrunners,
cacholotes, and gallitos. We cover a lot of ground on this tour, but it
is quite comfortable thanks to Argentina’s good
infrastructure and friendly people. Wine aficionados will enjoy
sampling the great local vintages during our evening meals.
Day 1: Córdoba
Our
flights arrive in the afternoon, and we’ll head straight to a
hotel at the base of the mountains, just outside the city.
Day 2: Sierra de Córdoba
This isolated, misty mountain range is strikingly
beautiful with its rocky crags and grassy valleys. We search small
streams for the endemic Olrog’s and Córdoba
Cinclodes, but won’t ignore the more common birds like the
unique Spectacled Tyrant and colorful Long-tailed Meadowlark. Later on,
we’ll leave the mountains and head north into the chaco, a
type of arid, stunted woodland that covers much of interior Argentina.
Day 3: Salinas Grandes
The strange, endemic Salinas Monjita manages to eke
out a living around the edges of just a few salt pans in this area of
Argentina. We hope to score this bird early and have some time to bird
the chaco for Spot-winged Falconet, Black-crested Finch, Crested
Hornero, and other specialties. Later on, we have a fairly long drive
through the heat of the day to the mountain village of Tafí
del Valle, where we spend two nights.
Day 4: El Infiernillo and Rio Sosa
We’ll
bird this high mountain pass at dawn for Buff-breasted Earthcreeper,
Scribble-tailed Canastero, and Tucuman Mountain-Finch before dropping
down into the forested Rio Sosa Valley. Here we’ll check the
river looking for Rufous-throated Dipper, the rarest member of the
family, as well as the endemic White-browed Tapaculo and Yellow-striped
Brush-Finch.
Day 5: Tafí del Valle to Salta
On the
far side of the pass, the road drops into an upland desert
characterized by tall, columnar cacti. This is home to two more
Argentine endemics, the ghostly Sandy Gallito and noisy White-throated
Cachlote. We’ll continue north and spend the night close to
Salta.
Day 6: Salta to Cachí
This road snakes up a steep valley known as the
Cuesta del Obispo, where roadside scrub and woodland hold some
extremely localized species like Iquico Canastero and Rufous-bellied
Saltator. Dropping down into the desert again, we can enjoy great views
of the weird Burrowing Parrot, and we’ll spend time targeting
the endemic Steinbach’s Canastero. We’ll have one
night in the village of Cachí.
Day 7: Cachi to Jujuy
We head
back over the Cuesta de Obispo, searching for any remaining specialties
and then drive north to the city of Jujuy for one night.
Day 8: Rio Yala and the Humahuaca Valley
Birding
the idyllic Rio Yala valley will give us another chance at
Rufous-throated Dipper, although the rare Red-faced Guan will be our
main target in the alder forests. We should also find Spot-breasted
Thornbird, Rusty-browed Warbling-Finch, and Fulvous-headed Brush-Finch.
Later, we head north, climbing up the Humahuaca valley into the
altiplano. Roadside stops can be very productive, highlighted by the
endemic Bare-eyed Ground-Dove and flocks of finches that should include
the cracking Black-hooded Sierra-Finch. We’ll spend the night
in a small Altiplano village.
Day 9: Laguna de los
Pozuelos
This
huge lake is a magnet for flamingos, high Andean waterfowl, and
shorebirds. Depending on the water levels, we could see Chilean,
Andean, and Puna Flamingos towering over the smaller Puna Plovers,
Andean Avocets, and a variety of ducks. The dry scrub around the lake
is great for Puna and Common Miners, Gray-breasted Seedsnipe,
Short-billed Pipit, and a variety of finches. In the afternoon, we
drive to the border town of La Quiaca for a two-night stay.
Day 10: Sierra de Santa
Victoria
We
climb up to a 14,700 ft (4500 m.) pass, the highest elevation we reach
on tour. The scenery here is nothing short of spectacular, and while
species numbers are low, what we do see is quite different. The
smartly-dressed Red-backed Sierra-Finch is usually easy to find, and
we’ll also look for Plain-breasted Earthcreeper,
Slender-billed Miner, Black-fronted Ground-Tyrant, and Andean Swallow.
Day
11: La Quiaca to Calilegua NP
By doing some early
morning birding close to a quaint village, we should score
Citron-headed Yellow-Finch or even a Wedge-tailed Hillstar. We then
have a long drive back through Jujuy and onto San Martin, where
we’ll spend the next two nights. We may arrive early enough
for some afternoon birding in Calilegua NP. This park protects a huge
tract of wet yungas cloudforest.
Day 12: Calilegua NP
We’ll
spend the day birding various elevations of the park. Some of the key
birds here include Tucuman Parrot, Blue-capped Puffleg, White-throated
Antpitta, and Saffron-billed Sparrow. If we stay out late, we may find
Hoy’s Screech-Owl or Stygian Owl.
Day
13: Palomitas and JV Gonzales
Today we return to the
chaco, first birding a foothill road that is good for the elegant
Black-legged Seriema. This bird is much shyer than it’s more
common cousin, the Red-legged Seriema, and we’ll need some
luck to pick one out of the dense scrub. This area is also good for
Cream-backed Woodpecker and Spot-backed Puffbird. We then drive to the
town of JV Gonzales, where we spend the night. Before dusk we will
search for the outstanding Olive-crowned Crescent-chest, which most
people find hard to believe is actually a tapaculo.
Day 14: JV Gonzales to Salta
We have
most of the day to scour the chaco for the last few specialties
we’re after, such as Little Thornbird and Black-bodied
Woodpecker, before driving to Salta.
Day
15: Salta
The
tour ends this morning as we take flights out of Salta.
TOUR INFO:
CLIMATE: Hot in the
chaco to chilly in the high Andes, with a bit of rain in some areas.
DIFFICULTY: Mostly easy.
Nearly all birding is from roadsides, and there is only one optional
strenuous hike. This tour does require some long days and a few long
drives.
ACCOMMODATION: Very good,
except for two nights in basic hotels - they still have private
bathrooms and hot water, but the rooms are rather small and simple.
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