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Wedged amidst the jagged contours of the Himalayas,
between India and Tibet, lies the timeless Kingdom of Bhutan. Immersed in tradition, folklore, and deep-seated
Buddhist beliefs, Bhutan has in recent years opened up and taught the world a
few lessons on almost every aspect of conservation. Its legacy, endless
tracts of Himalayan forest carpeting the foothills of snow-capped ranges,
transcends reverence and respect for all things natural. Top quality target birds like the enigmatic Ibisbill,
dazzling Himalayan Monal, outrageous Satyr Tragopan, localized Ward's Trogon,
remarkable Rufous-necked Hornbill, Blyth’s Kingfisher, Yellow-rumped
Honeyguide, Beautiful Nuthatch and the breathtaking Fire-tailed Myzornis await
the few devoted souls that venture into this rich kingdom. One of Bhutan’s
greatest appeals is that it has retained much of its traditional practices and
beliefs, and remains a country virtually uninfluenced by the west, making it
not only a great birding destination, but also culturally fascinating. If you
have not yet been to Bhutan, don’t panic, because it’s as near to timeless as a
place can get.
Day
1: Arrival in Paro. Birding starts
with a bang, going straight after one of our biggest target birds, Ibisbill, on
the rocky banks of the Paro River. We may also find River Lapwing and
Black-tailed Crake.
Day 2: Cheli la to
Thimphu. Dawn sees us on the cool alpine
meadows of Cheli la searching for the iridescent Himalayan Monal, a bird so colorful that the
Nepalese have nicknamed it the “bird of nine colors”. We‘ll also sift through
flocks of pink rosefinches and chunky grosbeaks. In the thicker forests below
we hope to track down Spotted and Black-faced Laughingthrushes.
Day 3: Thimpu
to Cheri Valley. En route to Jigme
Dorji NP along the exquisite Cheri Valley, we should bump into Rufous-bellied
Woodpecker, Brown Dipper, White-collared Blackbird and Hodgson‘s and
Blue-fronted Redstarts. In the afternoon we visit the magnificent Trashi Chhoe
Dzong temple, for our first of many fascinating cultural diversions.
Days
4-6: Thimpu to Punakha (Mo Chhu Valley). The day starts at 10,000 feet on the western slopes of Dochu la, soaking up
breathtaking views of the Central-Eastern Himalayan range. These pristine mixed
forests of hemlock, fir, oak, and rhododendron hold a spectacular set of target
species, any of which will leave us breathless and craving for more. Among
these we‘ll search for the vivid scarlet shape of a male Satyr Tragopan, one of
the unbelievable horned pheasants that draw many birders to the Himalayas.
Other cool stuff up here includes remarkable Gold-billed Magpies, gorgeous
Golden Bush Robins, immaculate Cutias, and the scintillating Fire-tailed
Myzornis. Later, we descend to the small town of Punakha and visit its
impressive Dzong, before heading to Jigme Dorji NP. Over the next two days we
should be rewarded with Black Eagles, Red-headed Trogons, cute Slaty-bellied
Tesias, Small Niltavas, Black-chinned Yuhinas, a trio of forktails, several
furtive wren-babblers, and with luck
Pallas‘s Fish Eagle or White-bellied Heron.
Day 7: Punakha to Gangtey
Gompa (Probjikha Valley). The
atmospheric oak woods of Gangtey la hold another top target in the form of
Yellow-rumped Honeyguide, and will also give us a shot at Blue-winged
Minla, Whiskered Yuhina, Rufous Sibia, and the wonderful Ward ‘s Trogon. Late
in the day we visit the Gangtey Gompa monastery for another smattering of
Bhutanese culture.
Day 8: Probjikha Valley to Trongsa. Before reaching the sacred wintering grounds of the
Black-necked Crane, we hit the summit at Pele la, where Kalij Pheasant, Spotted
Forktail, White-browed Rosefinches, and White-winged Grosbeaks occur. Scattered
bamboo stands provide refuge for several cute parrotbills, and roadside scrub
holds Stripe-throated Yuhina and Rusty-tailed Flycatcher.
Days 9-12: Trongsa to Shemgang road to Tingbiti. We drop in elevation as we head towards Tingbiti,
birding several forested valleys on the way, searching for the impressive
Rufous-necked Hornbill, Blue-bearded Bee-eater, Rusty-fronted Barwing, and
Yellow- throated Fulvetta. We‘ll base ourselves at Tingbiti and target the low
elevation forests for tiny Speckled Piculets, and a whole host
of cool laughingthrushes such as Rufous-chinned and Blue-winged. Right near our
mountain camp we‘ll seek out massive Great Hornbills, Pin-tailed Green Pigeons,
Lesser Yellownapes, and incandescent flocks of Scarlet Minivets, Sultan Tits,
and Orange-bellied Leafbirds. A brace of cool woodpeckers are also on the long
list of possibilities, including a real
‘cutey ‘ in the form of the diminutive, pink-breasted White-browed
Piculet and the scarce Pale-headed Woodpecker. This is also our best chance for
the impressive golden leaf monkey.
Day 13: Trongsa to Jakar. A very early start at Yotung la could yield
Darjeeling Woodpecker, Chestnut-tailed Minla, the localized Gold-naped Finch,
and the unusual Great Parrotbill. In the afternoon we visit another attractive
temple, Jakar Dzong for a more relaxing afternoon.
Day 14: Jakar to Sengor. Thrumsing la is prime
country for Blood Pheasants, and also holds Red-flanked Bluetails, Spotted
Nutcrackers, and ghostly Snow Pigeons. The dense conifers of the Ura Valley
hold gems like Mrs. Gould‘s Sunbirds, Orange-gorgeted Flycatchers, Bar-winged
Wren-babblers, and Red-headed Bullfinches. In the afternoon we‘ll make a
dramatic descent to Sengor to overnight.
Days 15-18: Sengor to
Yongko la and Lingmethang road. Today we hit Bhutan‘s wet subtropical forests and
one of the finest birding areas in the Himalayas. Over the next four days we
will be combing the lush forested valleys in order to track down awesome
Rufous-necked Hornbills, shy Blue-naped Pittas, Golden-throated Barbets, mixed
parrotbill flocks, Collared Treepies, strange Slender-billed Scimitar-babblers,
Black-headed Shrike-babblers, gorgeous Golden-breasted Fulvettas, and
vermillion Scarlet Finches, to name just a few of the varied and staggering
possibilities in this wonderfully rich area.
Day 19: Yongko la to Mongar-Narphung. An extremely early start will be needed so that we
ensure we have enough time to bird the broadleaf forests around Kori la, as we
have a long drive ahead of us. Around the pass we may run into giant Great
Barbets, stunning Short-billed Minivets, Chestnut-bellied Nuthatches,
Rufous-necked Laughingthrushes, and a brace of cool babblers, Rusty-cheeked
Scimitar-Babbler and Hoary-throated Barwing.
Day 20: Narphung la to Samdrup Jongkhar. Birding subtropical forest around Narphung may
bring in the tiny Pied Falconet, hulking Wreathed Hornbill, superb
Silver-breasted Broadbill along with more parrotbills and immaculate forktails.
Day 21: Samdrup Jongkhar to Guwahati. After some final morning
birding, we cross the Indian border and transfer to Guwahati for departure.
Trip
info:
CLIMATE: Mostly cool to cold. Generally dry during the
day except at the passes where rain, sleet, fog, and even snow can appear.
Warmer and humid beyond Lingmethang. Most of the tour is spent between
6,500-9850 ft. (2000-3000 m.), with occasional visits to mountain passes over
13,000 ft. (4000 m.).
DIFFICULTY: Moderate. There are a few optional strenuous
hikes and several very early starts.
ACCOMMODATION: Basic to moderate. For much of the tour tented
camps are used. Bhutan is an underdeveloped country, lacking the extensive
tourist infrastructure of some of its neighboring countries.
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