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This
tour is designed for people who enjoy a slower-paced trip based in just
two excellent lodges, both of which cater to the needs of birders.
We’ll spend four nights at Guapi Assu Bird Lodge, located at the
base of the Serra dos Órgãos mountains in a large 18,500
acre (7400 ha.) nature reserve. Many trails pass through rich forest,
and the restored wetlands here have quickly garnered a reputation as
being the finest in the region; they are always teeming with birds. The
other three nights will be spent at Vale das Taquaras in a beautiful
forested valley high up in the mountains. This is a charming new lodge
that has easy access to some great birding sites.
Day 1: Rio de Janeiro to Guapi Assu.
The tour starts at 10:00am in Rio airport, and we’ll drive two
hours northeast to Guapi Assu, where we will spend the next four
nights. We’ll start by birding around the wetlands near the lodge
taking in some easy waterbirds like Brazilian Teal, White-faced
Whistling-Duck, and Masked Duck. The regenerating woodland nearby has
neat birds like Long-billed Wren, White Woodpecker, Rufous-tailed
Jacamar, and Wing-banded Hornero. During some of our evenings here, we
can stay out after dark to watch for hulking Giant Snipes displaying,
handsome Scissor-tailed Nightjars hawking insects, and owls such as
Striped and Tawny-browed.
Day 2: Guapi Assu.
We’ll walk along a fairly easy trail that climbs gradually
through the rainforest to a scenic waterfall. Taking it slowly,
we´ll check out territories along the way for the handsome
Gray-hooded Attila, the gaudy Spot-billed Toucanet, cute Pin-tailed and
Swallow-tailed Manakins, skulking Scaled Antbird, Southern Antpipit,
and Rufous-capped Antthrush. Higher up the trail, we reach stakeouts
for one of Guapi Assu’s star birds, the Shrike-like Cotinga.
Nowhere else is it easier to see, and with the help of some sharp-eyed
rangers, we stand a good chance of finding one. Mixed species flocks up
here can also be good, with Sharpbill, Yellow-green Grosbeak, and a
whole suite of tanagers possible. A picnic lunch at an impressive
waterfall will be arranged before heading back to the lodge.
Day 3: Guapi Assu.
On our second full day in the lowland forest, we will (weather
permitting) take a 4WD up to a slightly higher altitude sector of the
reserve. By birding a clearing at an abandoned farm that provides good
views of the surrounding trees, we’ll watch for Plain and
Maroon-bellied Parakeets, Channel-billed Toucan, Green-headed and
Ruby-crowned Tanager, Long-tailed Tyrant, and other canopy birds. With
a bit of luck, we might also spot an immaculate white Bare-throated
Bellbird “bonking” from a distant treetop. As the morning
heats up, we’ll work some trails for Eared Pygmy-Tyrant,
White-bibbed Antbird, Streak-capped and Rufous-winged Antwrens,
Crescent-chested Puffbird, and a variety of woodcreepers and
foliage-gleaners. On the way back to the lodge, we’ll check out a
lek of Eastern Striped Manakin.
Day 4: Atlantic Coast.
A two-hour drive will take us to the Atlantic coast where we target the
critically endangered Restinga Antwren. This bird is restricted to the
rapidly vanishing coastal scrub east of Rio. We search for this bird
right alongside a magical ocean setting, where we may also see Brown
Boobies, Magnificent Frigatebirds, and a few terns. A nearby salt
lagoon usually has rafts of White-cheeked Pintails and a selection of
shorebirds. We return to Guapi Assu for lunch and spend more time
around the wetlands in the afternoon, trying for shy and skulking rails
like Rufous-sided and Ash-throated Crakes and Blackish Rail.
Day 5: Sumidouro.
Requiring an early start, we head north to some drier habitat on the
far side of the Serra dos Órgãos range, passing the
iconic Dedo de Deus, or “God’s Finger” mountain en
route. Forest patches support small populations of the endangered
Three-toed Jacamar along with a great selection of other birds like
Gilt-edged Tanager, Sooretama Slaty-Antshrike, Sooty Grassquit, and
Yellow-eared Woodpecker. The area also holds a selection of distinctive
open-country species like Red-legged Seriema, Firewood-gatherer,
Streamer-tailed Tyrant, Whistling Heron, and Gray and White-rumped
Monjitas. We’ll arrive at Vale das Taquaras Lodge late in the
afternoon, our base for the rest of the tour.
Day 6: Vale das Taquaras.
Birding starts right on the doorstep, where we’ll work the roads
and easy trails for some cracking Atlantic Forest gems like
Brassy-breasted Tanager, Ferruginous and Ochre-rumped Antbirds, Hooded
Berryeater, and Bare-throated Bellbird. Later in the day, we’ll
take a short ride up a 4WD track to a small patch of forest that is
loaded with even rarer species like White-bearded Antbird, Spotted
Bamboowren, and Half-collared Sparrow. Some super-cool nightbirds also
occur nearby including the ominous Stygian Owl and outrageous
Long-trained Nightjar.
Day 7: Pico da Caledônia.
This 7200 ft (2200 m) peak is the highest in the area, and we'll make
use of a 4WD to get near the top of a very steep cobblestone road. The
treeline forest is home to one of the world's rarest birds, Gray-winged
Cotinga, as well as other high elevation birds that we won't see
elsewhere, such as Rufous-tailed Antbird, Serra do Mar Tyrannulet,
Diademed Tanager, Plovercrest, and the endemic Itatiaia Thistletail.
Once the fog rolls in, we’ll return to Vale das Taquaras,
stopping for Dusky-tailed Antbird along the way.
Day 8: Return to Rio.
Most international flights leave Rio quite late, giving us most of the
day to keep on birding. We’ll keep our plans flexible so we can
target anything in particular we might need. We could revisit one of
the sites, or try somewhere new like Serra dos Órgãos NP,
looking for some of the montane species we may have missed, such as
Brazilian Antthrush and Mouse-colored Tapaculo.
Tour
Info:
CLIMATE: Warm to hot in the lowlands, cool or even cold in the mountains. Some rain is likely.
DIFFICULTY:
Moderate. While the trip requires a fair amount of walking, most of it
is not strenuous. There is one walk of about 3 miles (5 km) roundtrip
at Guapiassu on a slightly inclined trail, and Pico da Caledonia
requires walking up a steep but short cobblestone road and some stairs.
ACCOMMODATION:
Excellent lodges, but two of the rooms at Guapi Assu and one room at
Vale das Taquaras do not have attached bathrooms, though they are not
shared
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