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Atlantic Forest (8 days) |
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ATLANTIC RAINFOREST ENDEMICS. (2 WEEKS)
Yet another amazing cotinga, this time the Hooded
Barry-eater, photographed at REGUA (photo: T. Leventis)
It is not just the allure of beaches, carnival and Samba that draws
people from around the world to Rio; the wet rainforests along the southern
coast of Brazil are a birder's delight. Separated from the Amazonian
rainforests by the dry interior habitats that dominate much of the country,
the birds here evolved in relative isolation. The net result of the
isolation is that many spectacular and unique endemics evolved. Numerous
spectacular antbirds, cotingas, flycatchers, and tanagers are found
nowhere else, and this area is an absolute must for anyone with even
the slightest interest in Neotropical birds. The forest in this region
is one of the most threatened habitats in the world, and some scientists
estimate as little as 5% of the original cover remains. On this tour
we will concentrate on several of the best sites, staying three or four
nights in most places so we can really get to know the areas.
Hummingbird feeders such as these abound throughout
the region and we are likely to see a number of wonderful hummers such
as Black Jacobin, Swallow-tailed Hummingbird and Frilled Coquette at
the feeders
Day 1: Arrival. We arrive in Rio, one of
the most beautiful cities in the world and drive an hour and a half
northeast to Reserva Ecológica Guapi Assu. This is a fantastic and extremely
important 7,400 ha (18,500 a.) reserve located on the slopes of the
Serra dos Orgãos; it protects one of the largest remaining blocks of
forest in southeast Brazil. The reserve covers a wide elevational transect
from lowlands up to 6900 ft (2100 m) and has an growing birdlist - currently
standing at 402 species. We spend four nights at Guapi Assu Bird Lodge
in the reserve. Originally a farm house, this former home has been transformed
into a small but delightful lodge located near patches of lowland forest.
The lodge has five double rooms with en-suite facilities, a dining room,
a comfortable lounge with complete bird book library, and hummingbird
and tanager feeding stations in the gardens.
Day 2: Guapi Assu. The forest patches right
around our lodge can be very productive early in the morning, and we'll
start with some easy birding right outside our doorway. Hooded and Burnished-buff
Tanagers, Chestnut-vented Conebill, Crested Becard, Chestnut-backed
Antshrike, and White-barred Piculet are all frequently seen, as well
as a very local endemic, the stunning Crescent-chested Puffbird. Later,
we'll drive a few kilometers to the start of a well-maintained forest
trail and look for some more difficult birds like Unicolored Antwren
and Shrike-like Cotinga. After lunch, we'll take a walk around a wetland
that is currently being restored by the REGUA staff and look for a variety
of herons, waterbirds, and with luck a rail or two.
Day 3: Sumidouro and Carmo. We'll take a
day-trip to some drier forests on the other side of the mountain range.
We will search especially for the endangered Three-toed Jacamar, but
we'll check out anything else that might be around such as Red-legged
Seriema, Blue-winged Macaw, White-eared Puffbird, Streamer-tailed Tyrant,
and Long-billed Wren.
We may be lucky enough to encounter the weird,
wacky and wonderful Red-legged Seriema today.
Day 4: Guapi Assu. We'll have another day
birding the reserve. We'll likely concentrate on deep-forest trails
today, trying to see some of the more secretive skulkers like Black-cheeked
Gnateater, Star-throated and Salvadori's Antwrens, Black-capped Foliage-gleaner,
and Southern Antpipit. One of the trails eventually takes us to a lovely
waterfall, where we can have a picnic lunch.
Day 5: Serra dos Orgãos. We'll head for
the mountains today to a beautiful national park that allows access
to slightly higher elevations. This is the only known spot in the world
for the enigmatic Gray-winged Cotinga, but we would be quite lucky to
see it. The fantastic Swallow-tailed Cotinga would be much more likely
and certainly very welcome! Other possibilities include Hooded Berry-eater,
Sharpbill, Pale-browed Treehunter, and Pin-tailed Manakin.
Day 6: Guapi Assu - Itatiaia NP. After some
final birding in Guapi Assu, we'll drive for a few hours to Brazil's
oldest and most famous park, Itatiaia. We'll stay at one of the several
superb hotels within the national park. Hummer feeders near the hotel
are great for Violet-capped Woodnymph, Brazilian Ruby, and even the
endemic Frilled Coquette. When trees are in fruit, the hotel grounds
offer unbelievable birding with a variety of toucans, tanagers, caciques,
and thrushes all easy to see.
Days 7-9: Itatiaia NP. With three full days
to explore the various elevations in the park, we'll have plenty to
see. The gardens of the hotel alone can keep us busy for a while, but
we'll want to spend a lot of time on the forest trails laden with bamboo.
There are numerous species restricted to this bamboo habitat, and we
will spend time looking for Bertoni's and Rufous-tailed Antbirds, White-collared
Foliage-gleaner, Drab-breasted Bamboo-Tyrant, and others. Roadside birding
lower down may offer Rufous-capped Motmot, Surucua Trogon, Eared Pygmy-Tyrant,
and many more. We'll take a day trip to the Agulhas Negras road which
passes through low treeline vegetation that is distinctly different
from any other habitat that we'll visit. Here there are unusual birds
like Itatiaia Thistletail, Shear-tailed Gray-Tyrant, and Black-and-gold
Cotinga.
The scenery almost matches the phenomenal birding
at the nearby Itatiaia NP.
Day 10: Itatiaia - Angra dos Reis. After some
final birding in the park, we'll pack up and drive to the seaside town
of Angra dos Reis for the night. We should have time for some birding
and leg-stretching stops along the way, and we may add some open country
birds that we may not have seen yet like Narrow-billed Woodcreeper, Rufous-headed
Tanager, and Green-barred Woodpecker.
Day 11: Perequê. We will spend part of the
morning searching for the ultra-rare and critically endangered Black-hooded
Antwren near the town of Perequê. Other birds we may see here include
Buff-throated Purpletuft, Bare-throated Bellbird, and Red-eyed Thornbird.
Later on we will drive along the coast to the pleasant coastal town
of Ubatuba for a three-night stay.
Days 12-13: Ubatuba. The coastal lowlands
of São Paulo state are home to some of the rarest Atlantic forest lowland
endemics, now restricted to small patches of forest in several ranches
and small parks. We'll spend our time targeting such rare species as
Russet-winged Spadebill, Spotted Bamboo-Wren, Fork-tailed Tody-Tyrant,
Slaty Bristlefront, Atlantic Royal-Flycatcher, Bay-ringed Tyrannulet,
Saw-billed Hermit, and Mantled Hawk.
Day 14: Departure. One last morning at Ubatuba
to look for any remaining stragglers before driving to the city of São
Paulo to catch our flights home.
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