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Japan
– the clean-cut, modern economic powerhouse – is also an archipelago that is as
variable as it is exciting. From the subtropics of Kyushu to temperate
Hokkaido, the stark mountains, jagged coastline, and forests hold several of the
world’s must-see birds. This tour is timed for winter, when the massive-billed
Steller’s Sea-Eagles congregate on impressive ice floes waiting for fishermen’s
scraps, and huge numbers of cranes gather at their wintering grounds. Add some
great mixed-flock birding in the coniferous forests of the central islands, in
addition to gulls and waterbirds galore, and you have a great mix of birding
experiences. Another great experience is indulging in some sake (a pungent and
strong white spirit) on a cold winter night while waiting for the Blakiston’s
Fish-Owl at a floodlit waterhole stake-out. You will leave these enigmatic
islands having experienced some of the greatest birding spectacles on earth.
Day 1: Tokyo to Karuizawa. The tour starts with a 10 AM
meeting at a Tokyo Hotel, from where we travel into the Karuizawa area to begin
our Japanese birding in earnest. Nestled on the slopes of the impressive
Asamayama volcano we’ll scour the snow-dusted forests for our first flock birds
including remarkable Varied and cute Long-tailed Tits, Oriental Greenfinch and
maybe our first endemics in the form of Japanese Green and Japanese Pygmy
Woodpeckers. If we are lucky we might even see some transient species such as
Long-tailed Rosefinch, Pale Thrush, or the striking Meadow Bunting.
Days 2-3: Karuizawa. The woodlands here support
some superb birds, the finest ones being the endemic Copper Pheasant and
immaculate Japanese Waxwing. As we search the quiet forest trails and streams
looking for these we hope to encounter the mighty Crested Kingfisher, Brown
Dipper, Japanese Wagtail, Japanese Grosbeak and Hawfinch.
Day 4: Karuizawa to Izumi. Heading down to Lake Myogi we
may pick up Daurian Redstart, Red-flanked Bluetail and Bull-headed Shrike.
We’ll then head back to Tokyo and fly to the southern island of Kyushu, which
is bordering on subtropical. We head to the town of Izumi, home to the most
impressive gathering of cranes in the world.
Days 5-6: Izumi. This morning we will be blown
away by one of the most awesome birding spectacles on Earth; a gathering of more than
10,000 cranes. The cacophony of bugling crane calls will be heard
seemingly right outside our rooms, in darkness before we have even left our
beds. Regal White-naped Cranes join the more abundant Hooded Cranes, and by
scouring these flocks of extremely elegant birds we may pick out a few Common
or Sandhill cranes, or if we are really lucky a vagrant Demoiselle or ghostly
Siberian Crane. After this overwhelming experience we’ll tap into a variety of
other habitats in the region. The coast may yield Temminck’s Cormorant and the
scarce Saunder’s and Vega gulls. Fields and meadows should reveal buntings and
pipits, and perhaps the verdant Green Pheasant. Rivers will be scoured for one
of the world’s toughest shorebirds, Long-billed Plover, and Japanese
Bush-warblers skulk within the thickets.
Day 7: Mi-ike. Today we head for Mi-ike,
where we’ll hopefully see the impressive volcanic cone looming large in the
background, while birds such as Ryuku Minivet, White-bellied Green Pigeon,
Mountain Hawk-Eagle, Gray Bunting, White-backed Woodpecker and Japanese
Grosbeak may thrill us in the foreground. We’ll also visit a lake where we
search for some rare waterbirds, chiefly the incredible Mandarin Duck, and
hopefully a few equally impressive Baikal Teals amongst the many common ducks.
Day 8: Kyushu to Hokkaido. After a morning working the
woodlands we fly to Hokkaido, Japan’s Alaska. Huge tracts of taiga-like
mountainous wilderness, covered in snow and ice fields make this the most
visually stunning part of Japan. While
bird species diversity is low in this barren icy seascape, it supports some of
the world’s must-see birds including the spectacular, gargantuan, Steller’s
Sea-Eagle.
Day 9: Tsuruimura to Rausu. We head out at dawn today
for another extraordinary birding experience. More than 100 Red-crowned Cranes
gather in the white powder snow to dance and bugle in an unforgettable nuptial
display. Once we have soaked up these majestic birds we head off to Kushiro
Marsh. Frozen lakes harbor White-tailed Eagles and Whooper Swans. We finish off
the day in a forested valley where we will wait eagerly near a fishpond for one
of the ultimate birds of the tour – the massive Blakiston’s Fish-Owl.
Day 10: Rausu sea trip. Today’s boat trip is
phenomenal. We head out between the ice rafts into a massive ice-sea. While
gulls abound, we’ll mostly be on the lookout for eagles. We’ll notice the size
difference between the already impressive White-tailed and simply gigantic
Steller’s Sea-Eagles. These chocolate-and-white leviathans are crowded on the
ice at times, and when our boatman starts throwing out fish scraps, they wheel
in and gorge themselves within a few meters of the boat, offering unbelievable
photographic opportunities. This evening we will try again for the
temperamental Blakiston’s Fish-Owl if last night’s vigil proved luckless.
Day 11: Notsuke Peninsula,
Lake Furen and Nemuro. Today we scour the coastline and capes looking for seaducks and alcids,
including Black and White-winged Scoters, Harlequin Duck and Oldsquaw, and
hopefully some rarer species like Spectacled Guillemot, Ancient Murrelet or
Crested Auklet. The day should also yield an amazing gull-fest including the
likes of Glaucous and Glaucous-winged gulls.
Day 12: Nemuro Peninsula. This area provides some of
the most exciting and varied winter birding in Japan, with a good diversity of
species. We’ll go as far as Cape Nosappu where the seas are packed with
seaducks and gulls including Common Goldeneye and Scoters, cormorants and alcids such as Common Guillemot and
Ancient Murrelet. Red-throated Loon, the fantastic Falcated Duck and Red-necked
Grebe are also specialty species in this vicinity.
Day 13: Cape Kiritappu to
Kushiro.
We’ll spend this last morning dividing our time between the sites we have
visited previously before we return to the town of Kushiro around midday. En
route we’ll also take in a great site for Asian Rosy Finch. The main tour
finishes after lunch, with those joining the extension continuing for an
amazing overnight pelagic cruise on a ferry liner back to Tokyo.
Hokkaido to Honshu Pelagic
Cruise extension (3 days)
We
board the overnight ferry around midnight for a bit of rest in our sleeper
cabins. Chomping at the bit, we will all be out on deck at first light, where
we hope to see Laysan and Black-footed Albatross, Least and Crested Auklets,
Spectacled and Brunnich’s Guillemots, Black-legged Kittiwakes, Streaked and
Short-tailed Shearwaters. There is
always the chance of picking up a rarity. Mammals have included Steller’s
Sealions and even rare cetaceans such as Orca and Pacific White-sided Dolphin.
After a full day searching for these ocean wanderers we’ll dock at Oarai, where
we’ll take a thirty-minute drive to Mito, where we overnight. The tour
concludes the next day when we transfer you back to Tokyo’s Narita Airport.
Tour
Info
CLIMATE: Cool to very cold, with some rain and snow possible.
DIFFICULTY: Mostly easy. There will be some fairly long walks at Karuizawa.
ACCOMMODATION: Varies from good hotels to very simple Japanese-style guest houses (minshuku).
These will be spotlessly clean and comfortable, but minshuku are simple
with futon mattress beds, shared rooms and shared bathroom facilities.
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