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This
volcanic archipelago has a long list of
selling points, including Tolkienesque
fjordlands, open meadows, and breathtaking
mountain ranges. For birders, the three
endemic families (Kiwis, New Zealand Wrens
and New Zealand Wattlebirds), and 61
endemic species are the major highlights.
The pelagic seabird experience is hard to
beat, with Kaikoura attracting
shearwaters, petrels, and albatrosses
galore, including the giant Wandering and
Royal Albatrosses. Beyond the birds, the
stunning coastal scenery and down-to-earth
Kiwi charisma (if we trawl enough bars in
Dunedin we might even meet Gollum!), make
this trip great fun. We’ll be visiting
the very different subtropical North
Island, temperate South Island, and the
smaller Stewart Island, in an effort to
bag as many great birds as possible.
Day
1: Aukland to Dunedin. After
arrival in Aukland, we take a morning
flight to Dunedin, South Island, for a
one-night stay. After lunch, we’ll
explore the Otago Peninsula where the
immense Northern Royal Albatross can be
viewed at its only mainland breeding site.
Here we may also encounter Yellow-eyed
Penguin and Spotted Shag.
Day
2: Dunedin to Christchurch.
In the morning we’ll explore the
Waikouaiti waterfowl reserve en route to
Christchurch. It’s a long drive, but
time permitting we’ll check out the
Waikuku estuary before arriving at the
spectacularly mountainous Kaikoura, where
we spend the next two nights.
Day
3: Kaikoura pelagic. Undoubtedly
one of the finest pelagic birding
experiences in the world, we head out for
what is sure to be one of the major trip
highlights, with tons of superb seabirds,
and a chance at some cetaceans too. The
proximity of the birds to the shore is one
of the major appeals here and we need just
half an hour to be amongst some of the
world’s great oceanic wanderers. Several
forms of Wandering Albatross, northern and
southern Royal Albatrosses, Salvin’s and
White-capped Mollymawks, both Northern and
Southern Giant-Petrel, and the rare
endemic Westland Black Petrel can all be
found here among shearwaters, petrels, and
prions.
Day
4: Kaikoura to Franz Josef. Today
we drive through the incredible Arthur’s
Pass, where vistas of the Southern Alps
compete with Keas for our attention.
We’ll head out after dark for the very
reclusive, recently-split Okarito Brown
Kiwi. We spend the night in Franz Josef.
Day
5: Frans Josef to Queenstown.
We’ll move south past fantastic beaches
and sea cliffs, where we’ll stop for a
very strange rail, the Weka. We then enter
the southern Nothofagus
forests
and head through Haast’s Pass. In times
past the giant, now extinct, Haast’s
Eagle, twice the size of any living eagle,
used to hunt moas until the arrival of
humans eradicated their prey. The forests
still hold some great birds, including the
endangered Yellowhead and bizarre little
Rifleman. Modern genetics have shown this
rather obscure little bird to be basal to
the entire Oscine passerine radiation. It
is essentially the sister to all other
true songbirds, proving that they first
evolved in Australasia and radiated out
from there. We have two nights in
Queenstown.
Day
6: Queenstown.
Today we drive through to Omarama,
scanning for New Zealand Falcon en route,
before arriving in Mackenzie Country. Here
we’ll search the boulder-strewn rivers
for the critically endangered Black Stilt,
which numbers less than 80 birds.
Day
7: Queenstown to Milford Sound. Perhaps
the most magnificent part of New Zealand,
the Fiordland NP is today’s main
destination. Massive glaciers and
snow-capped peaks surround us and as we
head over the superb mountains we are
likely to encounter the charismatic yet
naughty windshield-wiper-eating Keas. We
board our comfortable overnight boat for a
tour of this spectacular area searching
for cetaceans and Fiordland Crested
Penguin, and with luck we may also
encounter the rare Blue Duck.
Day
8: Milford Sound to Stewart Island.
Heading across the strait on the ferry to
Stewart Island offers another
mini-pelagic. Here we may be lucky with
some scarcer species like Buller’s
Albatross, Common Diving-Petrel and the
highly localized Mottled Petrel. In the
evening we’ll make our first attempt at
seeing Stewart Island Brown Kiwi, a
bizarre, flightless, near-sighted ratite
that is ecologically closer to a mammal
than a bird. We’ll spend the next two
nights on the island.
Day
9: Stewart Island.
Today we’ll target Fiordland Crested,
and Little Blue Penguins.
Day
10: Ulva Island to Invercargill.
Ulva Island is home to South Island Kaka,
Stewart Island Weka, and Red-crowned
Parrot. We will also look for a handful of
seabirds including Stewart Island Shag
before we head for Invercargill, where we
spend the night.
Day
11: Invercargill to Auckland.
We leave South Island and head to
Auckland, where we overnight.
Days
12-13: Tiritiri
Matangi Island.
Located
20 miles (30 km) northeast of central
Auckland, Tiritiri Matangi Island is one
of New Zealand's flagship conservation
projects, where over 60% of native cover
has been restored. Practically an ark for
endemics verging on extinction, this
predator-free island is a must-see. The
cacophony of birdsong here is immediately
apparent, much more intense than that
experienced on the highly modernized
mainland, and as the ferry pulls up, we
should hear the tinkling chorus
of bellbirds. Among the endemic species
are the two extant wattlebirds: the black
and chestnut Saddleback and the
blue-wattled Kokako.
Other great birds include Red-crowned
Parakeet, Whitehead, Stitchbird (a
potential family split), and the
flightless Takahe. This giant rallid, once
thought to be extinct, is now so tame that
they occasionally try to mate with your
shoes! We spend the night in rustic island
accommodation in order to search for the
strange Little Spotted Kiwi. The next day
we return to Aukland and sleep near
Miranda.
Day
14: Miranda.
Early
this morning we hit the mudflats near
Miranda. Here we search for the endangered
and dainty New Zealand Dotterel and the
quirky Wrybill, a shorebird with a bill so
bent that it looks like it has been
smacking its head against solid concrete.
Many other Asia-Pacific shorebirds
overwinter here, and we'll sift through
these before returning to Aukland for our
final dinner, and transfers for flights
home.
TOUR
INFO:
CLIMATE:
Mild and pleasant, but cooler in the
mountains. Rain is unpredictable and can
be expected at any time.
DIFFICULTY:
Easy. No long walks, but early starts are
required.
ACCOMMODATION:
Mostly good to excellent. The night on
Tiritiri Matangi is basic, though well
worth it.
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