Part
of the Chocó bioregion, northwest Ecuador is one of the most biodiverse
regions of any mainland area, holding over 70 endemics. This tour covers the
whole range of altitudes from the cool temperate forests of Yanacocha to the
humid lowlands of Rio Silanche, targeting as many of the specialties as
possible. With luck, this tour will feature such thrillers as Toucan Barbet,
Plate-billed Mountain-Toucan, and the astonishingly beautiful Velvet-purple
Coronet.
Day 1: Quito.
We'll pick you up at the airport and take you to the hotel for the
night. Most international flights into Quito arrive in the evening. If
you are connecting from another tour, you may have this day free to
relax, or you might arrange a day trip with us.
Day 2: Yanacocha.
Today we visit Yanacocha, an area of temperate cloudforest on the upper
slopes of the Pichincha Volcano. Although the surrounding terrain
is very steep, walking here is easy and the birds are
spectacular. There are mixed flocks of gorgeous tanagers such as
Scarlet-bellied and Black-chested Mountain-Tanagers, and the
hummingbirds rank as some of the most spectacular in the world, with
Great Sapphirewing, Shining Sunbeam, Sapphire-vented Puffleg, and
Sword-billed Hummingbird all regular. The critically endangered
Black-breasted Puffleg, an ultra-rare Ecuadorian endemic, can be seen here occasionally. After
lunch we’ll slowly drive down the old
Nono-Mindo road. The lower sections run
alongside a rushing mountain stream where we
can look for White-capped Dipper and
Slaty-backed Chat-Tyrant. The climax of the
day will be our search for one of the most
glorious of all South American birds, the
Andean Cock-of-the-rock. With at least one
lek currently active in the pristine forest
of the lower Alambi River Valley we stand a
very good chance of witnessing the
spectacular males in full display. In the
evening we arrive at the superb Tandayapa
Bird Lodge, which will be our base for the
next five nights.
We'll try to arrive before dark to get our first view of the incredible
hummingbird feeders, perhaps the best
anywhere. While at Tandayapa we'll stay in double rooms with private bathrooms and
full-time hot
water and electricity. Excellent local soups highlight the meals.
Day 3: Upper Tandayapa Valley. Today
we will concentrate on the upper elevations of the Tandayapa Valley, where the birding can be terrific and the walking is fairly
easy. The most wanted species here are the rare Tanager
Finch, the gaudy Toucan Barbet, and the superb Plate-billed
Mountain-Toucan. We should see at least two of these, along with
a host of other species such as Gorgeted Sunangel, Grass-green Tanager,
Dusky Bush-Tanager, and Pearled Treerunner. Ocellated and Spillman's
Tapaculos call from the thick undergrowth
but are very difficult to coax into
view. This is also one of our best
chances for the impressive Powerful
Woodpecker. Later in the
afternoon, we may return to the lodge for easy birding from the deck or perhaps
we'll stay out to look for nightbirds like
Rufescent Screech-Owl before dinner.
Day 4: Lower Tandayapa Valley. Beautiful subtropical
cloudforest starts almost at the doorstep of the lodge, and the deck allows
easy birding for those wishing to relax during some of the sessions.
A forest floor hide provides opportunities
to see skulkers like Immaculate Antbird and
Spotted Barbtail up close at dawn, and you
never know when you'll find a White-throated
Quail-Dove or Scaled Antpitta strolling
by. We'll spend the morning on the trails
looking for secretive deep-forest birds like Olivaceous Piha, Scaled Fruiteater, and
Rufous-breasted Antthrush. We will also make some time
to watch the famous feeders, which can attract as
many as twenty species of hummingbirds in an hour, including Violet-tailed Sylph, Brown Inca,
Purple-bibbed White-tip, Green-fronted Lancebill, Western Emerald, and
Purple-throated Woodstar. In the afternoon, if there's time, we'll drive
back toward Quito to bird the dry scrub near
Calacalí, looking for the rare White-tailed
Shrike-Tyrant and other arid-country birds
like Black-tailed Trainbearer and
Golden-rumped Euphonia. A stop at a
local orchid reserve should produce the
localized White-tailed Hillstar. At
dusk we can make a try for the spectacular
Lyre-tailed Nightjar before returning to the
lodge.
Day 5: Refugio Paz de
las Aves. This now-famous antpitta
reserve near Mindo will be a highlight of the tour. Here, a local farmer has
started hand-feeding Giant, Ochre-breasted, Moustached, and Yellow-breasted Antpittas with
amazing success. We also have a good chance to see other Chocó
specialties
like Velvet-purple Coronet, Empress Brilliant, and
perhaps even Orange-breasted Fruiteater or
Uniform Treehunter. In the afternoon we'll drive back to the lodge along the old
Nono-Mindo road from the opposite direction,
looking for Pacific Tuftedcheek, Nariño
Tapaculo, and Rusty-winged Barbtail.
Day 6:
Oilbirds. Today we'll
likely start our birding at dawn near
Tandayapa as we search for the endemic
Beautiful Jay, and afterwards we'll concentrate on
finding any species we have missed on our previous excursions. By late
morning we'll head for a newly discovered
Oilbird roost site, about an hour-and-a-half
from the lodge. Here we can see these
strange nocturnal frugivores spending the
daylight hours resting on the steep walls of
a grotto formed by a rushing mountain
stream. We'll return to Tandayapa for
one more night.
Day 7: Milpe.
The Mindo Cloudforest Foundation reserve at Milpe is one of the best
birding sites in Ecuador. At least a dozen Chocó endemics,
including the flashy Glistening-green
Tanager, have
been recorded at Milpe, and we have a good chance of finding some of
them as we explore the area along forest trails and roads. The
highlight for many visitors is the lek of Club-winged Manakins, using
their wings to make harmonica-like sounds to impress females. The large and chunky Moss-backed
Tanager is can sometimes be seen early in the morning, perching in the open atop
small trees. We'll stay the next three nights in a friendly hotel in Los
Bancos. An optional nightbirding excursion
could turn up Black-and-white Owl or Chocó
Screech-Owl.
Day 8: Río Silanche.
A short drive down the road brings us to the lowland forest patches near
Pedro Vicente Maldonado. The largest
and best of these is owned and operated as a reserve by Mindo Cloudforest
Foundation, and the canopy tower gives us unprecedented views of
the mixed flocks for which this area is famous. Tanagers are always the brightest birds in the bunch, and amongst
the many regulars we hope to find Scarlet-breasted Dacnis, and Emerald,
Scarlet-browed, and
Rufous-winged Tanagers. Not to be
outdone by the passerines, Chocó Trogon, Orange-fronted Barbet, Pale-mandibled
Araçari, Chocó Toucan, and up to six
woodpeckers head the cast of other spectacular species here.
Day
9: La Celica. This morning
we’ll drive a couple of hours northwest
from Pedro Vicente Maldonado, past the
village of La Celica, and bird the remnant
lowland forest patches. Many rare Chocó
endemics such as Black-tipped Cotinga and
Rose-faced Parrot persist in this area and
species like Scarlet-breasted Dacnis and
Slate-throated Gnatcatcher turn up more
regularly in the flocks here than at
Silanche. Rufous-tailed Jacamar, Tiny Hawk,
and the handsome Barred Puffbird are
residents of this area as well. In the
afternoon we’ll return to our hotel in Los
Bancos for a final night, allowing a little
time
to check the hummer and tanager feeders.
Day 9:
Wild Card.
Today our goal will be to pick up whatever
endemics we may have missed. We might
return to either Milpe or Río Silanche and
make an attempt at some of the trickier
species there, or if we've already had
excellent luck at both sites, we might visit
a different site, such as the small private
Four Rivers reserve near Los Bancos. In the
afternoon we'll drive to the city of Santo
Domingo farther
south on the coastal plain, where we'll
settle in for a two-note stay at the Hotel Zaracay.
This hotel
is on the outskirts of the city on large, shady grounds, where you can see a
few interesting birds like Saffron Finch and Pacific Pygmy-Owl. The rooms have the standard
amenities, and there is a good restaurant attached.
Day
10: Río Palenque. This small reserve
and research station an hour's drive from
Santo Domingo is in the area where Chocó
and Tumbesian endemics meet.
Gray-and-gold Warbler, Ecuadorian Ground-Dove, Ochraceous Attila, and
Rufous-headed Chachalacas from the drier southwest can be found next to Chocó
species such as Orange-fronted Barbet and Chocó Toucan. Other interesting birds
that can be found here include Pacific Royal-Flycatcher, Black-headed
Antthrush, and White-whiskered, White-necked, and Pied Puffbirds.
Day
11: Chiriboga Road.
We’ll return to Quito via the old road
through Chiriboga. As we ascend the
western slope of the Andes, we'll pass
through a variety of habitats from humid low
foothill forest all the way up to the
temperate cloud forest. The bridge at
the bottom of the road is one of the most
reliable spots for Torrent Duck and along
the lower reaches we'll be looking for
Esmeraldas Antbird, Ashy-throated Bush-Tanager,
and Russet Antshrike. We spend the
final night in Quito.
Day 13: Departure. Transfer to the airport after
breakfast to catch early morning flights home.
TOUR
INFO:
CLIMATE:
Much of the trip will be at middle elevations where the climate is quite
pleasant, but it can get cold at Yanacocha, and it is hot and humid in the
lowlands. Some rain is likely, though it is often quite dry on the July
and September tours.
DIFFICULTY:
Easy to moderate. On most days we’ll be birding from the road, but some of the
trails can be muddy and fairly steep.
ACCOMMODATION: Good to excellent, with private bathrooms, hot water, and electricity always available.
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