Part
of the Chocó bioregion, northwest Ecuador is one of the most biodiverse
regions of any mainland area, holding over 70 endemics. This tour covers the
whole range of altitudes from the cool temperate forests of Yanacocha to the
humid lowlands of Rio Silanche, targeting as many of the specialties as
possible. With luck, this tour will feature such thrillers as Toucan Barbet,
Plate-billed Mountain-Toucan, and the astonishingly beautiful Velvet-purple
Coronet.
Day 1: Quito.
We'll pick you up at the airport and take you to the hotel for the
night. Most international flights into Quito arrive in the evening. If
you are connecting from another tour, you may have this day free to
relax, or you might arrange a day trip with us.
Day 2: Yanacocha.
Today we visit Yanacocha, an area of temperate cloudforest on the upper
slopes of the Pichincha Volcano. Although the surrounding terrain
is very steep, walking here is easy and the birds are
spectacular. There are mixed flocks of gorgeous tanagers such as
Scarlet-bellied and Black-chested Mountain-Tanagers, and the
hummingbirds rank as some of the most spectacular in the world, with
Great Sapphirewing, Shining Sunbeam, Sapphire-vented Puffleg, and
Sword-billed Hummingbird all regular. The critically endangered
Black-breasted Puffleg, an ultra-rare Ecuadorian endemic, can be seen here occasionally. After
lunch we’ll slowly drive down the old
Nono-Mindo road. The lower sections run
alongside a rushing mountain stream where we
can look for White-capped Dipper and
Slaty-backed Chat-Tyrant. The climax of the
day will be our search for one of the most
glorious of all South American birds, the
Andean Cock-of-the-rock. With at least one
lek currently active in the pristine forest
of the lower Alambi River Valley we stand a
very good chance of witnessing the
spectacular males in full display. In the
evening we arrive at the superb Tandayapa
Bird Lodge, which will be our base for the
next five nights.
We'll try to arrive before dark to get our first view of the incredible
hummingbird feeders, perhaps the best
anywhere. While at Tandayapa we'll stay in double rooms with private bathrooms and
full-time hot
water and electricity. Excellent local soups highlight the meals.
Day 3: Upper Tandayapa Valley. Today
we will concentrate on the upper elevations of the Tandayapa Valley, where the birding can be terrific and the walking is fairly
easy. The most wanted species here are the rare Tanager
Finch, the gaudy Toucan Barbet, and the superb Plate-billed
Mountain-Toucan. We should see at least two of these, along with
a host of other species such as Gorgeted Sunangel, Grass-green Tanager,
Dusky Bush-Tanager, and Pearled Treerunner. Ocellated and Spillman's
Tapaculos call from the thick undergrowth
but are very difficult to coax into
view. This is also one of our best
chances for the impressive Powerful
Woodpecker. Later in the
afternoon, we may return to the lodge for easy birding from the deck or perhaps
we'll stay out to look for nightbirds like
Rufescent Screech-Owl before dinner.
Day 4: Refugio Paz de
las Aves. This now-famous antpitta
reserve near Mindo will be a highlight of the tour. Here, a local farmer has
started hand-feeding Giant, Ochre-breasted, Moustached, and Yellow-breasted Antpittas with
amazing success. We also have a good chance to see other Chocó
specialties
like Velvet-purple Coronet, Empress Brilliant, and
perhaps even Orange-breasted Fruiteater or
Uniform Treehunter. In the afternoon we'll drive back to the lodge along the old
Nono-Mindo road from the opposite direction,
looking for Pacific Tuftedcheek, Nariño
Tapaculo, and Rusty-winged Barbtail.
Day 5:
Oilbirds. Today we'll
likely start our birding at dawn near
Tandayapa as we search for the endemic
Beautiful Jay, and afterwards we'll concentrate on
finding any species we have missed on our previous excursions. By late
morning we'll head for a newly discovered
Oilbird roost site, about an hour-and-a-half
from the lodge. Here we can see these
strange nocturnal frugivores spending the
daylight hours resting on the steep walls of
a grotto formed by a rushing mountain
stream. We'll return to Tandayapa for
one more night.
Day 6: Milpe.
The Mindo Cloudforest Foundation reserve at Milpe is one of the best
birding sites in Ecuador. At least a dozen Chocó endemics,
including the flashy Glistening-green
Tanager, have
been recorded at Milpe, and we have a good chance of finding some of
them as we explore the area along forest trails and roads. The
highlight for many visitors is the lek of Club-winged Manakins, using
their wings to make harmonica-like sounds to impress females. The large and chunky Moss-backed
Tanager is can sometimes be seen early in the morning, perching in the open atop
small trees. We'll stay the next night in a friendly hotel in Los
Bancos. An optional nightbirding excursion
could turn up Black-and-white Owl or Chocó
Screech-Owl.
Day 7: Los Bancos to Río Canandé. After
another morning to bird in Milpe or another nearby site, we'll head for
for the Jocotoco Foundation's Río Canandé Reserve in
Esmeraldas. The trip can take five hours or more, depending on road
conditions, weather, and birding. Tonight is the first of three nights
at Canandé.
Day 8: Canandé forest trails. We'll
spend time on the beautiful forest trails behind the lodge at
Canandé today, where a host of lowland Chocó endemics can
be found. Pacific Flatbill, Blue-whiskered Tanager, Esmeraldas Antbird,
and Scarlet-breasted Dacnis are among the specialties we'll seek. If we
make it up the steep trail to the overlook we may even have a shot at
the rare Golden-chested Tanager. Our nights at Canandé provide
excellent opportunities for nightbirding: Chocó Screech-Owl and
Chocó Poorwill are both present here.
Day 9: Canandé roadside birding. Today
we'll drive beyond the town of Hoja Blanca and bird along some of the
logging roads that still have good forest. Targets include Lita
Woodpecker and the superb Scarlet-and-white Tanager. If it's sunny this
can be a great area for raptors, and Black Hawk-Eagle, King Vulture,
and Gray-headed Kite are among the possibilities. In the afternoon we
may bird a different trail near the lodge where Great Jacamar and Song
Wren are resident.
Day 10: Canadé to Santo Domingo.
After a final morning birding at Canandé we'll drive to Santo
Domingo, where we'll spend the first of two nights at the Hotel Zaracay.
Day
11: Río Palenque. This small reserve
and research station an hour's drive from
Santo Domingo is in the area where Chocó
and Tumbesian endemics meet.
Gray-and-gold Warbler, Ecuadorian Ground-Dove, Ochraceous Attila, and
Rufous-headed Chachalacas from the drier southwest can be found next to Chocó
species such as Orange-fronted Barbet and Chocó Toucan. Other interesting birds
that can be found here include Pacific Royal-Flycatcher, Black-headed
Antthrush, and White-whiskered, White-necked, and Pied Puffbirds.
Day
12: Chiriboga Road.
We’ll return to Quito via the old road
through Chiriboga. As we ascend the
western slope of the Andes, we'll pass
through a variety of habitats from humid low
foothill forest all the way up to the
temperate cloud forest. The bridge at
the bottom of the road is one of the most
reliable spots for Torrent Duck and along
the lower reaches we'll be looking for
Esmeraldas Antbird, Ashy-throated Bush-Tanager,
and Russet Antshrike. We spend the
final night in Quito.
Day 13: Departure. Transfer to the airport after
breakfast to catch early morning flights home, or connect to another Ecuador tour.
TOUR
INFO:
CLIMATE:
Much of the trip will be at middle elevations where the climate is quite
pleasant, but it can get cold at Yanacocha, and it is hot and humid in the
lowlands. Some rain is likely, though it is often quite dry on the July
and September tours.
DIFFICULTY:
Easy to moderate. On most days we’ll be birding from the road, but some of the
trails can be muddy and fairly steep.
ACCOMMODATION:
Good to excellent. Rio Canandé does not have hot water, but the
climate is quite warm. Single rooms may not be available at
Canandé Lodge for larger groups.
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