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It is not just the allure of beaches and music
that draws people from around the world to Rio; the wet rainforests
along the southern coast of Brazil are a birder’s delight.
Separated from the Amazonian rainforests by the dry interior habitats
that dominate much of the country, the birds here evolved in relative
isolation, resulting in loads of endemics. Numerous spectacular
antbirds, cotingas, flycatchers, and tanagers are found nowhere else.
Just a hundred miles inland, the rainforest is replaced by savannah and
gallery forest with a very different set of birds and its own set of
endemics. This tour combines the best sites of both regions for a truly
unforgettable experience.
Day
1: Arrival. Our flights arrive in the morning in Sao
Paulo. We’ll drive through the middle of the day to
Intervales State Park, where we will spend three nights in a simple but
pleasant hotel in the park.
Days
2-3: Intervales. This huge park is a birding wonderland
– huge numbers of endemics thrive in the wet montane forest,
and many are easier to find here than anywhere else. We’ll
spend time walking tracks looking for striking birds like Giant and
White-bearded Antshrikes, Black-fronted Piping-Guan, and Red-breasted
Toucan. The more open habitat can be great for Large-tailed Antshrike,
Dusky-tailed Antbird, and Red-eyed Thornbird. Swallow-tailed Cotingas
often nest near the restaurant and the stunning Long-trained Nightjar
can often be found flying over at dusk.
Day 4: Intervales to Ubatuba.
After some final birding, we’ll drive for much of the day to
a quiet hotel near the town of Ubatuba, where we spend three nights.
Days 5-6: Ubatuba.
The lowland forest patches near town can be surprisingly good. Many
rare birds are regularly seen here like Buff-throated Purpletuft,
Spotted Bamboowren, and Tufted Antshrike. We’ll visit a
private feeding station that is a magnet for handsome hummers like
Festive Coquette and Saw-billed Hermit.
Day 7: Pereque and Guapi Assu.
The incredibly beautiful and endangered Black-hooded Antwren will be
our morning target before be skirt the edge of Rio and drive to Guapi
Assu Bird Lodge for a three-night stay.
Day 8: Guapiassu.
Birding this huge reserve at the foot of the mountains will give us a
chance to find some species we may have missed such as Crescent-chested
Puffbird, Spot-billed Toucanet, and Shrike-like Cotinga. There is also
a nice wetland near the lodge that is good for late afternoon birding.
Along with the easier waterbirds, we can try our luck at several
species of skulking rails, and maybe even witness the roding display of
the rare Giant Snipe.
Day 9: Pico Caledonia.
We’ll rise early and head up the mountains in order to search
for the very rare Gray-winged Cotinga, a ghostly bird that haunts the
highest reaches of the forest. Later we bird our way back down the
mountain, making selected birding stops depending on what we still need.
Day 10: To Itatiaia.
After some final birding, we carry on to Brazil’s oldest
national park. We’ll stay two nights in a lovely hotel with
feeders that attract some of the most colorful birds on the planet,
including Blue-naped Chlorophonia and Saffron Toucanet.
Day 11: Itatiaia.
We’ll have a full day to explore the forest. Trails give us a
chance at some shy species like Such’s and Rufous-tailed
Antthrushes and Rufous Gnateater. Pileated Parrot can often be seen
here, and feeders lower in the park sometimes bring in the dainty
Frilled Coquette.
Day 12: Algulhas Negras.
The highest peaks in southern Brazil are easily accessed by a rough
road on the other side of the park, and species like Itatiaia
Thistletail, Black-capped Piprites, and Thick-billed Saltator are more
easily seen here than anywhere else. Night in a nearby hotel.
Day 13: Travel to Canastra.
This is mostly a travel day, but we’ll have a few hours in
the morning and evening for some birding. The habitat changes
dramatically as we head inland to the down of Sao Roque de Minas, where
we spend three nights.
Days 14-15:
Serra da Canastra NP. This park is simply magnificent.
The chance to see Brazilian Merganser, the world’s rarest
duck, would be enough to attract most birders, but there is plenty more
here. The windswept grasslands on the plateau are a world apart with
their Cock-tailed and Sharp-tailedTyrants, Black-masked and Blue
Finches, and occasionally even Giant Anteaters and Maned Wolves. The
gallery forest at the base of the mountains has totally different birds
like Helmeted Manakin and Planalto Foliage-gleaner. Scrubbier habitat
can be good for noisy Curl-crested Jays and the outrageous
Stripe-breasted Starthroat, and Crowned Eagle is occasionally seen too.
Day 16: Onward to
Caraça. We’ll want to leave early
to have time to look for Three-toed Jacamar on the way to
Caraça, a reserve protected by a Catholic monastery.
We’ll have only one night here, but it should be enough to
see the endemic Serra Antwren and others, as well as witness the
bizarre nightly ritual of an elderly monk feeding wild Maned Wolves on
the church steps.
Day 17: Caraça and
Cipó. After a late breakfast, we’ll
move on to out last site, the isolated Serra de Cipo. In the afternoon
we’ll have a first visit to the rocky mountaintops in search
of Hyacinth Visorbearer (with a name like that you’ve just
got to see it), Cipó Canastero, and the other endemics.
Day 18: Departure.
After a final morning of birding, we’ll return to Belo
Horizonte in time to catch mid-day flights home.
TOUR
INFO:
CLIMATE: Hot and humid in the lowlands
to cool in the highest elevations. Rain is possible in most areas.
DIFFICULTY: Moderate. This is a fast-paced
trip that will target as many endemics as possible, some long days and
quite a lot of driving are necessary. The walking is not usually
difficult, but two-mile roundtrip hikes are required to search for
Shrike-like Cotinga and Cipo Canastero, and getting to the Gray-winged
Cotinga spot involves walking up a very steep, cobbled road.
ACCOMMODATION: Good to
excellent throughout. Single rooms cannot be guaranteed at Guapi Assu
Bird Lodge, and two of the rooms share a bathroom.
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