Subantarctic Islands: The Ultimate Pelagic

Penguins and Seabirds Galore Below New Zealand

Subantarctic Islands: The Ultimate Pelagic

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South of New Zealand there is a string of islands that offer the avid seabirder some of the best pelagic birding on the planet, coupled with awesome opportunities to get close up to a variety of these same birds at massive breeding colonies, including a variety of albatross and penguin species. On top of this the Subantarctic Islands offer up a wealth of other Antarctic wildlife, from an abundance of cetaceans roaming the icy waters, to nesting seals, including another giant and formidable species, the impressive Hooker’s Sea Lion. Like any Antarctic destination this tour offers much for the non-birding partner and non-birding nature photographer; a wealth of wonderful landscapes awaits, as do some truly close encounters with Antarctic wildlife. No other tour offers the variety of penguins and seabirds possible on such a short cruise, thus boasting the highest diversity and numbers of seabirds of any of our tours. This should have great appeal to any seabird enthusiast, who may pick up 30+ different species of tube-nose procelariiformes in record time!

The largest flying bird on Earth, Wandering Albatross, comes in to land
The largest flying bird on Earth, Wandering Albatross, comes in to land (Nick Leseberg)

Day 1: Hobart (Australia). After arrival in the capital of Tasmania (Australia), we will transfer to a hotel in the city for the night.

Days 2 – 4: Hobart to Macquarie. We begin our journey by tackling the formidable roaring 40s, which offer world class pelagic birding, and we’ll keep an eye out for a myriad of albatrosses, petrels, shearwaters, storm-petrels, and prions as we traverse the cool waters of the southern oceans.

Royal and King Penguins waddling ashore on Macquarie Island
Royal and King Penguins waddling ashore on Macquarie Island (Heritage Expeditions)

Days 5 – 6: Macquarie Island. Macquarie offers up a penguin feast of note. It is the only locality in the world to see the endemic Royal Penguin, which is abundant here. However we are more likely to be impressed with the immaculately-dressed King Penguin. At Lusitania Bay, on the southeastern side of Macquarie, we will encounter a massive colony of King Penguins that will bring us both a spectacle and wonderful photo opportunity; the sheer numbers and approachability of these smart penguins are sure to thrill us and provide one of the highlights of this once-in-a-lifetime cruise. Other awesome penguins on offer here include the amicable Gentoo and sprightly, punky, Rockhopper. The Macquarie Island Shag is an endemic and we’ll be sure to catch up with this too.

Majestic King Penguins on Macquarie Island
Majestic King Penguins on Macquarie Island (Heritage Expeditions)

Day 7: At Sea. Heading north we will be crossing the Subantarctic convergence zone. To the south of this invisible line, during the first part of our pelagic, we can expect to see some of the specialty southern seabirds of this latitude, including Campbell (Black-browed) and Gray-headed Albatrosses. We will also find the hulking Northern and Southern Giant Petrels, elegant Cape Petrel, and the dainty Black-bellied and Gray-backed Storm-petrels in decent numbers. We should pick out the stunning Blue Petrels, with their white-tipped tails, and with luck a Gray Petrel may be encountered too.

Royal Albatrosses breed on Campbell Island
Royal Albatrosses breed on Campbell Island (Heritage Expeditions)

Day 8: Campbell Island. After docking at Perseverance Harbor we begin our exploration of this fascinating island. The elimination of rats from Campbell means that small passerine birds are on the increase. There are also marvelous photographic opportunities for Southern Royal Albatross which nest here in good numbers. The island also supports Rockhopper Penguin and the endemic Campbell Island Shag.

Day 9: Auckland Islands. Our next port of call is the spectacular tussock-ridden, steep cliffed wilderness of the southern portion of main Auckland Island. We land at Carnley Harbour and climb up onto a bluff and enter an amazing White-capped Albatross colony. Being within an albatross colony is surreal, and these immense giants caw and cackle, rubbing each others beaks as they ignore you, even as you sit a few feet away. Sitting on a precipice, the waves crash dramatically into the shores below. Higher still, we will find a colony of Wandering Albatross. Standing next to these oceanic giants gives you an amazing appreciation of their size.

White-capped Albatross breeds in the Aucklands
White-capped Albatross breeds in the Aucklands (Nick Leseberg)

Day 10: Enderby Island. Part of the Auckland Island Archipelago, we land at Sandy Bay. This is the main breeding ground for the immense Hooker’s Sea Lion and offers one of our best shots at catching up with the Subantarctic Snipe (endemic race) and the endemic Auckland Island Shag and flightless Auckland Island Teal. The island is also excellent for penguins and we hope to encounter good numbers of Yellow-eyed Penguin. The shores attract the occasional shorebird and the surrounding waters are excellent for the impressive Light-mantled Albatross.

Day 11: Snares Island. Our last Subantarctic Island will be a real eye-opener. The wilderness combined with the sights and smells of millions of nesting seabirds is a sight to behold, and one that will never be forgotten. This island holds and estimated six million nesting Sooty Shearwaters. A zodiac approach (unfortunately no landings are permitted) should yield the smart Snares Crested Penguin, and passerines such as the endemic races of Tomtit and Fernbird. Antarctic and White-fronted Tern, and Buller’s Albatross are other major attractions.

Docking with penguins will be a regular feature of our time in these rich islands
Docking with penguins will be a regular feature of our time in these rich islands (Heritage Expeditions)

Day 12: Bluff (New Zealand). We’ll dock at the southern tip of South Island, New Zealand, in the town of Bluff, where the tour ends.

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OPTIONAL EXTENSION

Tasmania Extension (6 days)

This pre-extension to the Australian outpost of Tasmania will offer a bunch of endemic birds, such as the ultra-rare Orange-bellied Parrot, and some great Aussie mammals. During several days out of the island’s capital Hobart we’ll visit a number of sites, including the idyllic Bruny Island, home to many Tassie endemics, the adorable Pink Robin, and the scarce Hooded Plover. Scouring these areas will see us pick up all of the island’s dozen or so specialties including the rare Forty-spotted Pardalote, a trio of endemic honeyeaters, and the stunning Swift Parrot. After we have added all possible endemics to our list we will fly to the remote hamlet of Melaleuca for close-up encounters with one of the worlds rarest birds, Orange-bellied Parrot. Finally, we will head out on a mammal foray to Cradle Mountain that offers the promise of a host of cool Aussie mammals, like quolls and maybe even the fast-declining Tasmanian Devil.

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TRIP CONSIDERATIONS

CLIMATE: Very cold to mild, depending on prevailing weather conditions. Rain, snow and sleet possible at any time.

DIFFICULTY: This trip is not very physically challenging. Most activities involve rides on Zodiacs and then easy walking. The ocean crossings can be rough, and seasickness for those prone to it is a real possibility.

ACCOMMODATION: Good onboard facilities.