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Everyone
knows that India is mystical; a land of striking contrasts with a
fabulously rich heritage, welcoming people, and delicious food. India
also offers an intoxicating mixture of awesome birds, haunting vistas,
mist-cloaked herds of deer, and the entrancing Tiger. Our exploration
begins as we head north to the foothills of the Himalayas, the highest
mountains in the world. Here we seek barbets, laughingthrushes,
whistling-thrushes, sibias, and pheasants in the oak, rhododendron, and
Sal forests. After a visit to Corbett NP we head to Bharatpur, a
wetland attracting over 350 bird species. Next we nip by the
magnificent Taj Mahal; it’s symmetrical beauty and otherworldly
serenity are legendary. And for those who can’t leave India
without seeing the world’s most attractive and charismatic large
cat, we have an extension to Kanha. The birding here is also excellent
and we have a chance at many localized species including White-naped
Flameback and Mottled Wood-Owl.
Day 1: Delhi. After arrival we’ll enjoy some birding and the sights of Old Delhi. We stay the first night in the city.
Day 2: Delhi to Naini Tal.
From Delhi we drive to Gajraula, a small town close to the Ganges
River. In the afternoon we visit a bridge over this sacred waterway to
look for Great Black-headed Gull, River Tern, and the highly-localized
White-tailed Stonechat. Later we drive to Naini Tal, leaving behind the
Indian plains and climbing up through the Himalayan foothills. We spend
the next four nights at a quaint colonial retreat in the mountains.
Days 3-5: Naini Tal.
An attractive reminder of the era of the British Raj, this hill station
is at an elevation of 6,600 ft. (2,000 m.). Surrounding peaks tower
above and on clear days, there are spectacular views of snowy Himalayan
giants that lie less than 50 mi. (80 km.) away. Bearded Vultures and
Himalayan Griffons soar majestically overhead while we bird a mixture
of open country and forest patches for fantastic birds like Great
Barbet, Speckled Piculet, Black-headed Jay, Blue Magpie, Gray Treepie,
and Rusty-cheeked Scimitar-Babbler. Working the Sat Tal area and the
Mongoli valley should reveal an assortment of six laughingthrushes,
Rufous Sibia, Himalayan Rubythroat, Spotted Forktail, and flocks of
tits, nuthatches, and treecreepers. We will also spend time at higher
altitudes, and with luck we ought to find some mega birds such as Altai
Accentor, Koklass Pheasant, Rufous-bellied Woodpecker, and Pink-browed
Rosefinch.
Day 6: Naini Tal to Corbett NP.
This morning we make our way to this famed reserve, founded by the
early conservationist Jim Corbett. We will overnight in Kumeria.
Days 7-8: Corbett NP and Kumeria.
Corbett is a top birding area and the mixed species flocks are superb.
The tracks around Kumeria may reveal Kalij Pheasant, Chestnut-headed
Tesia, or Nepal Wren-Babbler, which was only recently discovered in
India. The rushing Kosi River holds Little Forktail, Brown Dipper,
Crested Kingfisher, and the spectacular Wallcreeper. One night will be
spent at Dhikala inside Corbett, and our second night back at Kumeria.
Day 9: Kumeria to Delhi. After a last morning in the foothills we return to Delhi for the night.
Day 10: Delhi to Bharatpur.
On the journey to Bharatpur, we traverse the heartland of Hindu India.
Rural scenes of huts, mango groves, and mustard fields are interspersed
with urban areas where cows hold sacred sway next to lines of cycle
rickshaws and noisy trucks. We stay the next four nights in Bharatpur.
Days 11-13: Bharatpur.
Bharatpur was formerly an ancient hunting reserve for the Maharaja
(Hindu royalty). In years of good rainfall, productive marshes, bushy
savanna, and acacia thickets sprawl to the horizon. Bharatpur supports
an incredible diversity of waterbirds including Oriental Darter,
Painted Stork, and Asian Openbill. The shallow food-rich lakes support
stalking Pheasant-tailed and Bronze-winged Jacanas, while Black-necked
Storks and stately Sarus Cranes work the muddy edges. Waterfowl abound,
and we often see Bar-headed Goose, Lesser Whistling-Duck, Cotton
Pygmy-goose, and Comb Duck. In the woodlands, we could encounter Gray
Francolin, Yellow-footed Green-Pigeon, Indian Gray Hornbill, and
Black-rumped Flameback. Bharatpur is home to many raptors, and the
skies are rarely devoid of birds of prey. Opportunities for seeing
mammals are also excellent, with the huge Blue Bull, Sambar, Boar,
Golden Jackal, and others roaming the reserve.
Day 14: Bharatpur to Chambal.
Leaving Bharatpur, we visit the Mogul city of Fatepur Sikri before
arriving in Agra to visit the mystical Taj Mahal. The Mogul emperor
Shah Jahan built this mausoleum of ethereal beauty in memory of his
wife Mumtaz. Some birding is possible right from the Taj itself, where
the holy Yamuna River supports River Lapwing and Indian Chat. In the
afternoon we head for the Chambal Safari Lodge.
Day 15: Chambal River to Delhi.
Early this morning we’ll take a cruise on one of the wide-open
stony-bedded tributaries of the mighty Ganges River. This area has
several specialty birds including the Great Thick-knee, Desert
Wheatear, Sand Lark, Black-bellied Tern, and the extremely localized
Indian Skimmer. We should also find the bizarre Gharial and its cousin
the Mugger Crocodile. With luck we might encounter the critically
endangered Ganges River Dolphin. After lunch, those finishing today
will head back to Delhi to catch their evening flights, while those
joining the Tiger extension head for the overnight train from Agra to
Jabalpur.
Kanha NP Tiger extension (6 days)
We arrive in Jabalpur and drive to our lodge, the ideal base to explore
the varied wildlife of Kanha NP. The park protects 940 sq. km of
habitat, a diverse mix of Sal forests, bamboo thickets, grasslands, and
rocky escarpments that corresponds with an equally diverse blend of
fascinating birds and breathtaking wildlife. Kanha has gained a
reputation as one of India’s premier tiger reserves, and while
this feline will be our main target there is a whole realm of other
wildlife possibilities too, including Dhole, Hanuman Langur, Rhesus
Macaque, Gaur, Sloth Bear, Chital, Sambar, Swamp and Barking Deer.
High-pitched alarms of a Chital or guttural langur calls may lead us to
our main quarry-Bengal Tiger. An experience with ‘Old
Stripes’ is always thrilling and unforgettable, so that for many
this is the prime reason for coming to India. The birds at Kanha are
not bad either. With White-naped Flamebacks, Jungle Bush-Quail, Malabar
Pied-Hornbill, Asian Paradise-flycatcher, and Greater Racket-tailed
Drongo all found within the Sal stands, and Indian Scimitar-babbler,
Brown-cheeked Fulvetta, and Red Spurfowl lurk in the bamboo. Rocky
areas hold Blue-capped Rock-thrushes, and the grasslands Painted
Francolin. After four full days within the park we will catch a flight
back to Delhi.
Tour
info:
CLIMATE: Ranges from hot and dry in the north to chilly and damp in the Himalayan foothills.
DIFFICULTY: Mostly easy, but a few of the hikes are moderately strenuous. The overnight train ride (extension only) is at least 12 hours, and some people find it very exhausting.
ACCOMMODATION:
Generally excellent, with one night in moderate accommodation within
Corbett NP, and one night on a sleeper train on the extension. All have
private bathrooms, except on the overnight sleeper train.
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