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With its huge, unspoiled wilderness
areas and plains loaded with game, the
vast landscapes of Tanzania reflect an
Africa of old. This tour, timed to coincide with masses of birthing
wildebeest in Ndutu, explores northern
Tanzania’s exceptional diversity. With
the rains having fallen recently, the
plains burst into life in hues of green
set against the red sands, and blackish
afternoon clouds create spectacular orange
and vermillion sunsets. Birds are in full
breeding regalia and watching the
long-tailed, testosterone-laden widows and
black, red, and yellow bishops bashing
each other is a major highlight. Our
optional pre-trip extension visits the
arid landscapes of the Tsavo corridor, the
endemic-rich Usambaras, and the exotic
Pemba Island.
Day 1: Arusha.
After arrival at Kilimanjaro airport, we head to Arusha.
Day 2:
Arusha NP. We’ll spend the day on Mt. Meru, which looms over
Arusha. The montane forest offers us many
exciting birds including both Narina and
Bar-tailed Trogons. As we head up the
mist-enshrouded slopes, the yellowwood
trees become draped in Usnea old
man’s beard lichen and we search for
skulking gems such as White-starred Robin
and the dapper Brown Woodland-Warbler. The
park is also an excellent place to find
large herds of buffalo grazing the
mountain’s lower slopes.
Day
3: Arusha district. We drive around the looming Mt. Meru to the lark
plains. These grasslands are home to the
last 200 Beesley’s Larks on Earth, and
we will search long and hard for this
critically endangered Tanzanian endemic.
Other interesting residents here include
Chestnut-bellied and Yellow-throated
Sandgrouse, shrikes, wheatears, pipits,
and larks galore. The plains are lined by Drepanolobium
whistling thorn trees, while hills
offer a scrubby habitat that can deliver
Red-fronted and White-headed Barbets,
Red-throated Tit, eremomelas, and
crombecs. The thicket habitat and riparian
strips offer many great birds, including
Slate-colored Boubou, White-headed
Mousebird, Nubian Woodpecker, and the
highly gregarious Gray-headed
Social-Weaver. A night drive will reveal
many bushbabies, and perhaps the seldom
seen Striped Hyena.
Days
4-6: Tarangire River Lodge. From Arusha we head to Tarangire,
where we shall enjoy some of northern
Tanzania’s finest birding. The low
baobab-clad plains and fever-tree groves
support many cool species including three
Tanzanian endemics: Ashy Starling,
Yellow-collared Lovebird, and
Rufous-tailed Weaver. We will also make
our way to the shores of Lake Manyara,
where thousands of waterbirds and a pink
haze of flamingos stretch across the
horizon.
Days
7-8: Tarangire to Ngorongoro Crater. Moving
into the Great Rift Valley, the road
climbs to the edge of the magical crater.
We’ll keep our eyes peeled for flowering
Leonotis; if we find a patch, we
might be exposed to the coolest sunbird
spectacle in Africa, with the impressive
Golden-winged, coppery-colored Bronze, and
iridescent purple Tacazee Sunbirds all
competing for nectar from the same
flowers. Descending into the crater with
its towering vertical walls is like
finding Africa's Garden of Eden. Inside,
we seek myriad grassland and forest birds,
as well many scavenging vultures amidst a
thronging wildlife spectacle virtually
unequalled on earth.
Days 9-10:
Ndutu. We move through the Malanja depression and onto
the Serengeti plains, where sandgrouse,
bustards, and wheatears abound. Grant’s
Gazelles are scattered across the plains,
while Ostrich and Giraffe walk swaying in
the haze. Towards Ndutu we enter beautiful
mature Acacia woodland with
alkaline lakes and swamps. The lodge’s
waterhole is a bird magnet with
ever-present Fischer’s Lovebird, a variety of manikins, waxbills, and
widowbirds, and the endemic Gray-breasted Spurfowl. The woodlands
harbor Rufous Chatterer, Gray and Bearded Woodpeckers, Black-faced Babbler, and Red-throated Tit. The
wildebeest will have recently calved in
this area, and up to half a million
females may be in attendance with their
young, presenting a wildlife spectacle of
awesome proportions, impossible to
describe and enthralling to experience.
The attendant predators, particularly
Lions and hyenas, will have followed them
south and the vultures await each kill
with renewed enthusiasm.
Days 11-12:
Serengeti NP. We
explore the vast acacia-studded plains of
Serengeti NP, encountering herds of
wildebeest, zebra, gazelle, and Giraffe
alongside their associated predators. The
birds, of course, are party to this drama.
We’ll search for Meyer’s Parrot,
Black-faced Go-away-bird, and Usambiro
Barbet. We’ll be spending one day
exploring the western corridor, which
should reveal a gamut of interesting birds
like Black-headed Gonolek, Common
Wattle-eye, and the recently found
Karamoja Apalis.
Day 13:
Serengeti to Kilimanjaro
Airport. We return to Arusha, stopping for lunch at the
picturesque Gibbs Farm.
Usambaras
and Pemba Extension (10 days)
This trip begins nine days before the main
tour, and explores some remarkable areas
renowned for their phenomenal bird
diversity. First we head for the arid
Tsavo-corridor woodlands of Same. Nestled
in the rain shadow of the Usambaras and
Pares, the arid woodlands offer fantastic
birding. Targets include Black-throated
Barbet, Purple Granadier, White-bellied
Go-away-bird, Orange-bellied Parrot,
Red-fronted Cricket Warbler, Rosy-patched
Bushshrike, Somali Golden-breasted
Bunting, and many others. Next on the agenda are both the West and East Usambara Mountains. These
treasure troves are full of endemics and
montane species not easily available
elsewhere in Africa. Highlights may
include a bird that is found nowhere else
in the world, the Usambara Akalat. Other
rare gems we’ll search for include
Usambara Thrush, Usambara Weaver,
Spot-throat Modulatrix, and Red-capped
Tailorbird. The lowland coastal forests in
the East Usambaras at the Amani-Sigi
reserve support Chestnut-fronted
Helmetshrike, Red-tailed Ant-Thrush, and
the stunning Green-headed Oriole. Part of
an ancient arc of crystalline mountains,
the East Usambaras are jam-packed with
specialties including the bizarre and
exceptionally rare Moreau's Tailorbird, a
relict species of Asian affinities, which
requires much luck to see. Our final stop
is the idyllic and laid-back Pemba Island.
One of the Spice Islands, cloves are
spread throughout Pemba’s streets. Here
we bird Ngezi Forest Reserve looking for
the dainty Pemba Scops-Owl, Pemba Sunbird,
Pemba White-eye, and Pemba Green-Pigeon.
There is the opportunity for some idyllic
snorkeling on the nearby Manta Reef before
we head to the big game parks of Northern
Tanzania to start the main tour.
Tour
Info:
CLIMATE: Cool to warm, with some
rain likely.
DIFFICULTY: Mostly easy. There will
be some fairly long walks in the
Usambaras.
ACCOMMODATION: Most
of the time we will be based in excellent
lodges in National Parks and Game
Reserves. However, on the extension, the
accommodation at Same and in the East
Usambaras is rustic and simple.
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