Tropical Birding

Mindo Cloudforest Foundation

Wisconsin Bird Conservation Initiative

The MINDO BIRDATHON

25 August - 1 September 2007

GIANT ANTPITTA

TOUCAN BARBET

Leaders: Craig Thompson, Sam Woods, Benji Schwartz & Michael Retter
(with special thanks to Jen Brumfield and Nick Block for their additional help in some of the areas)

What is a 'BIRDATHON'?
A Birdathon is essentially a birding tour that is organized (at a markedly reduced rate), for conservation minded people to attend, and explore some of the areas that are to directly financially benefit from the money raised from the event. A significant proportion of the tour cost is directly used as a donation to the beneficiary of the event. Within this program there is also a chance to directly meet and interact with representatives of the local conservation organization, (that is to benefit from the funds raised), and to discuss the various conservation issues for the areas visited, and to learn more about their day-to-day conservation work in the area.

Background to the MINDO BIRDATHON:
The Mindo Birdathon was the second in an annual series of Birdathons sponsored by the Wisconsin Bird Conservation Initiative and its partners. The event was jointly run by Tropical Birding; who provided the guides and services for the Birdathon; the Mindo Cloudforest Foundation who provided important speakers and information on the conservation needs of this important area; and Tandayapa Bird Lodge, out of which the whole tour was based.

A group of 22 conservation-minded birders were brought together by Craig Thompson to attend the event, ensuring that significant funds were raised in the process. A significant proportion of the money raised from this Birdathon was donated directly to the Mindo Cloudforest Foundation. The Mindo Cloudforest Foundation (MCF) was established in 2001, with the purpose of preserving and promoting the conservation of important bird habitats within the bird-rich Chóco region of northwest Ecuador. The Chóco region is listed as an endemic bird area by Birdlife International, containing the highest number of endemic species for any mainland site in the world. It has historically been under threat from subsistence agriculture, clearance for oil palm plantations and cattle ranching, mining and logging. Since their establishment, MCF has set up two bird sanctuaries, Rio Silanche and Milpe; been instrumental in setting up the Nono-Tandayapa-San Tadeo Ecoroute : El Paseo del Quinde (a tourism ecoroute in northwest Ecuador); and also been heavily involved in the creation of Ecuador's National Strategy for Bird Tourism Development. Paul Greenfield and Brian Krohnke from MCF provided an in-depth talk on one night at Tandayapa about the work of the foundation, the future conservation needs of the area and the conservation strategies that they have already implemented in this important bird area.

With such a large group of visitors, the monies raised were substantial, although this created its own challenges in how to get this many people to see some of the great birds in the area. With this many participants we split the group into three smaller groups, each being supplied with their own Tropical Birding guide for each day of the Birdathon, and then we switched these guides daily. Therefore by the end everyone had visited all of the birding sites, and had been guided by each of the leaders. Being based out of Tandayapa Bird Lodge for the whole time was extremely convenient, so that the tour participants only had to unpack once for the whole tour. The great central location of Tandayapa meant we could visit some really significant areas within the Chóco region on the west slope of the Andes in northwestern Ecuador, including the temperate forest of Yanacocha reserve; the lower and upper subtropical forests within the Tandayapa Valley; Paz de los Aves near Mindo; Milpe Bird Sanctuary; and Rio Silanche Bird Sanctuary; and Calacali on the drive back to Quito. In doing this we managed to see first hand the work of MCF in their two bird sanctuaries, Milpe and Rio Silanche; and also travel along the much-publicized Nono-Tandayapa-San Tadeo Ecoroute, that they had been so instrumental in getting set up in the first place.

The trip was a great success with many regional specialties seen, that need the money raised from just such an event for their continuing survival in the region. Craig and the Wisconsin Bird Conservation Initiative are hoping to set up another Birdathon with Tropical Birding in 2009 this time being based at the Guapi Assu Bird Lodge in the diminishing Atlantic rainforests of southeast Brazil, another urgent conservation concern.

Birding Highlights

YANACOCHA (Temperate forest 3400m/11,155ft, around 1-1½ hrs drive from Quito)
This reserve is run by the Ecuadorian conservation organization, Fundacion Jocotoco. It protects 960ha of temperate forest and polylepis woodland on the flanks of Volcan Pichincha, an hours drive or so northwest from Ecuador's capital, Quito. The main reason for the establishment of a reserve in this area was to conserve this important wintering area of the Black-breasted Puffleg hummingbird, a critically endangered species that numbers only a few hundred birds. At this time of year this rare hummingbird is traditionally not around, so we had little chance of seeing it. However, the main reserve trail passes through excellent temperate forest and is dotted with hummingbird feeders along the way, making it a great place to start the tour on our journey towards the Tandayapa Valley. Although the rarest of the hummers was not around there were plenty of other temperate forest hummers around that make this a really enjoyable place to bird. A whole host of hummers were seen at their busy feeders, including Buff-winged Starfrontlet, Shining Sunbeam, Mountain Velvetbreast, Great Sapphirewing, Sapphire-vented & Golden-breasted Pufflegs, and Tyrian Metaltail. Although the two star hummers of the morning were undoubtedly the well-named Rainbow-bearded Thornbill and the incredibly well-endowed Sword-billed Hummingbird. The hummingbirds are definitely one of the best things about birding Yanacocha although it has plenty of other birds on offer. We also picked up our first couple of cotingas, with first several Barred Fruiteaters along the trail, and later a Red-crested Cotinga on our way out. Other highlights included a skulking Rufous Antpitta, a trio of Chat-tyrants (to add to a fourth - Slaty-backed Chat-Tyrant seen on our afternoon journey to Tandayapa), with Crowned, Rufous-breasted and Brown-backed Chat-Tyrants all being seen within the reserve. Some of the most colorful and unforgettable birds were however to be found within Yanacocha's feeding flocks that held Blue-backed Conebills, a couple of gorgeous Golden-crowned Tanagers and many Scarlet-bellied Mountain-Tanagers. On our way to Tandayapa we traveled along the Nono-Tandayapa-San Tadeo Ecoroute, a great long-established birding area in its own right picking up the beautiful Turquoise Jay, before we stopped at a known stakeout for Andean Cock-of-the-rock. In the late afternoons many vivid vermillion males display in the treetops and can be viewed well right from the road. We saw a number of these dazzling birds in the full throws of display, before we reluctantly left to continue our journey to the superb Tandayapa Bird Lodge.

SWORD-BILLED HUMMINGBIRD

YELLOW-BREASTED ANTPITTA

PAZ DE LAS AVES, MINDO (Subtropical forest around 1700m/5,577ft, around 40 mins drive from Tandayapa Bird Lodge).
This small private reserve is one of the undoubted recent conservation success stories in the Choco region. A local farmer, Angel Paz attended a guiding workshop that was organized as part of the process that involved the setting up of the Nono-Tandayapa-San Tadeo Ecoroute, (that the Mindo Cloudforest Foundation were so instrumental in setting up in the first place). A short time later (around July 2005) he cut some small trails within a patch of forest he owned, adjoining his fruit farm near Mindo. While cutting the trail an extremely rare bird, Giant Antpitta came in to feed on the worms that Angel disturbed while cutting the trail. At that time Angel's knowledge of birds was limited and he was unaware of this huge significance of this sighting, until people begun visiting an Andean Cock-of-the-rock lek he had on his land, and saw his antpitta and started raving about it. This prompted Angle to try and habituate this and other birds by providing fresh worms for them on a daily basis, which he has achieved with alarming success. He now attracts several different individual antpittas on most days, usually involving three different species (all of which are very hard to find away from there). Not only that but his bird-rich patch of subtropical forest is also home to some other really cool birds. This is surely what all conservation programs should hope to achieve - encouraging a local farmer to abandon his traditional land use of farming, and convert his land into a reserve that directly benefits greatly from visiting tourists. Angel is doing really well from his antpittas, attracting in good numbers of visitors throughout the year, so that he now readily admits he prefers running the reserve to working on the remaining area of his farm, as it generates less money for more work than guiding birders around his patch of forest. Angel has since become very familiar with the birds on his property and acts as a very knowledge guide for all visitors due to the intimate knowledge of 'his' birds, and he has continued to expand and adapt his reserve to visitors needs building more trails and facilities in the process. All groups got to enjoy some 'quality time' in the reserve, with most people picking up all three of this star antpittas - Giant Antpitta, Yellow-breasted Antpitta and Moustached Antpitta (the trickiest one of the bunch). Other notable birds in Angel's subtropical forest reserve included a range of cool cotingas including a superb male Orange-breasted Fruiteater, a restricted range Chóco species; a male Scaled Fruiteater and the far less flashy Olivaceous Piha. In addition to providing worms for the antpittas, Angel also provides fruit for any visiting birds, that attracted a stunning group of three Toucan Barbets on all of our visits, in addition to Crimson-rumped Toucanet and a small party of Black-chinned Mountain-tanager on some of the luckier trips. A male Golden-headed Quetzal perched up on the way to the reserve one morning had us scrambling out of the bus for a good look at this emerald and scarlet stunner.

UPPER TANDAYAPA VALLEY (Upper subtropical forest upto 2,300m/7,546ft, around 20 mins drive from Tandayapa Bird Lodge).
The Tandayapa Valley varies greatly from top to bottom, with the range in altitude bringing a markedly different suite of birds around the Tandayapa Bird Lodge, from those found up at the top end. We came up the top end for some of the sexiest birds in the valley. Most notably the bird that graces the cover of the field guide - Plate-billed Mountain-Toucan, a smashing bird that all groups got to see well. Our final morning up there produced one of the most memorable mornings birding on the tour, when two of the groups decided to join forces as the wide open road there allowed us easy birding in a larger group. Our first port of call was a known Tanager Finch stakeout, and timing our trip shortly after dawn paid off handsomely when we all got great views of this highly-desired and rare Chóco endemic. A short time later we found ourselves chasing a calling Ocellated Tapaculo ended in the frustration when only one person got a swift view of this polka-dotted tapaculo. So that when another called back further along we jumped on the chance, and Jason thankfully found the bird perched up nicely in full view, that allowed all 15 people to get good looks at his legendary skulker. This particular final mornings birding was rounded off nicely with first an impressive Powerful Woodpecker, then a male Crested Quetzal, and finally a very rare sighting of a Three-toed Sloth in the valley (that Jason had so memorably announced with a range of expletives!) On a few nights an extended stay was made in the upper valley to target nightbirds, with Swallow-tailed Nightjar, Rufous-bellied Nighthawk and Andean Pygmy-Owl being recorded during these longer field sessions.

TANDAYAPA BIRD LODGE/LOWER TANDAYAPA VALLEY (Lower subtropical forest 1,700m/5,577ft ).
Tandayapa Bird Lodge quite simply has some of the most amazing hummer feeders in the world. One step onto the lodge verandah and you are soon overwhelmed by the sheer variety and number of hummingbirds frantically feeding, fighting and whizzing past all around. A significant proportion of time was assigned at the feeders there, to allow everyone sufficient time to really take in the sheer volume of hummers, and learn a little about all the different species present, many of which were specialties only found in the Chóco region of northwest Ecuador and western Colombia. However, one of the cutest resident hummers there that always draws widespread admiration is the tiny Booted Racket-tail, many of which were buzzing around the feeders. Aside from this bizarre 'creation', there were also some special Chóco target hummingbirds like the stunning Violet-tailed Sylph, the striking Empress Brilliant, Brown Inca, the minusculeWestern Emerald, and the just plain dandy Purple-bibbed Whitetip; along with more widespread species like Purple-throated Woodstar and Green, Brown and Sparkling Violet-ears. As well as hummers tanagers were a feature of the walks around Tandayapa with such gems as Metallic-green, Golden-naped, Golden, Black-capped and White-winged Tanagers all being seen around the lodge, while the striking Blue-winged Mountain-Tanager was a regular visitor to the bananas and so were frequently visible through the lodge window. While the purpose-built blind drew in Immaculate Antbirds on a daily basis during the Birdathon. A few stops a little further down the valley produced a very special nightbird in the form of a Lyre-tailed Nightjar for all the groups, with a male seen on one occasion (complete with his ridiculously long tail) perched up on a roadside wire. The very same area also produced one of the least predictable sightings of the tour, when the bus was forced to scream to a halt for a Wattled Guan, that was perched out fully in the open on top of a telegraph pole, a rare and unlikely sighting of this notoriously shy species.

MILPE BIRD SANCTUARY (Foothill forest 1,100m/3,609ft around 45 mins drive from Tandayapa Bird Lodge).
Milpe was the very first bird sanctuary set up by the Mindo Cloudforest Foundation, opened in March 2004. This small reserve protects 62 ha of foothill forest that is located within the Los Bancos-Milpe Important Bird Area (as defined by Birdlife International). The foundation are looking to expand both this and the Rio Silanche sanctuaries, and are going to use the money that was raised from this Birdathon to expand one of these important reserves. This easily accessible reserve is just 700m off the main highway that runs between Quito and Pedro Vicente Maldonado, just before the settlement of Los Bancos. Therefore it is a great area for birders, easily accessible and protecting some prime bird habitat, that is home to many special birds to the Chóco region. Benji and Michael had some great days here with the groups, birding both the reserve and areas near the sanctuary that are as yet unprotected, seeing some interesting species in both these areas, thus highlighting the undoubted need to expand on the areas already protected there. One of the undoubted star birds within the reserve is the Club-winged Manakin lek, and although this was not prime lekking season, (being in the midst of the dry season), these stunning manakins still put in a much-appreciated appearance. To add to the manakin theme, Golden-winged Manakin was also seen on the reserve. Another Chóco specialty - Chóco Warbler was also found around Milpe, and the breathtaking Glistening-green Tanager was not only a nice addition to the growing list of Chóco specialties, but is also one seriously smart-looking, bright emerald green bird. Ochre-breasted and Rufous-throated Tanagers, both also regional specialties, made an appearance in Milpe, although the locally scarcer, and decidedly more colorful Emerald Tanager was unsurprisingly a little more popular. A scarce and diminutive raptor was also a good find in the Milpe area, with an appropriately named Tiny Hawk. The hummer feeders by the reserve center buzzed with cute little Green Thorntails, Green-crowned Brilliants, a few White-whiskered Hermits (that are a Chóco restricted range species), and very smart violet-bellied Green-crowned Woodnymphs. Some of the areas outside the reserve proved highly productive holding the rarely-encountered Rufous Mourner, and similarly scarce Thrush-like Schiffornis in addition to a Rufous-tailed Jacamar.

CHOCO TROGON

GRAY-HEADED KITE

RIO SILANCHE BIRD SANCTUARY (Lowland forest 300-350m/984-1148ft, around 90 mins drive from Tandayapa Bird Lodge).
Rio Silanche was the second reserve to be set up by the Mindo Cloudforest Foundation, opened in October 2005. The need for this reserve is all too clear when driving to the sanctuary, when it is necessary to pass right through huge oil palm plantations, and massive cleared areas. Our days in the area around the Rio Silanche Bird Sanctuary were just great, with a bundle of new birds and frequent, non-stop bird activity keeping us busy all day long. Much of the days focus was canopy feeding flocks that hide some very special species in this area, not least the Blue-whiskered Tanager, a rare Chóco lowland endemic that showed up in one such flock. Other Chóco specialties seen around Silanche included several separate Pallid Doves and Dusky Pigeons, including one Dusky that came in right by the canopy tower on the reserve, and gave us great eye-level views. Other localized specialties included a superb Orange-fronted Barbet in one of the passing feeding flocks; a Griscom's Antwren in another of these; a few different Purple-chested Hummingbirds; a striking male Choco Trogon; several Pale-mandibled Aracaris, and a few Choco Toucans; and a small party of Gray-and-gold Tanagers. However, not all the coolest birds are necessarily the endemics, with Slaty-capped Shrike-vireo, Barred Puffbirds, Pacific Antwren, Golden-hooded & Rufous-winged Tanagers, Black-striped Woodcreepers and Blue, Yellow-tufted and Scarlet-thighed Dacnises also seen, in addition to two Tumbesian specialties (here at the very northern extremity of their range). A random stop in an open deforested area led to us hearing the distinctive incessant chipping call of an Elegant Crescentchest, a strikingly beautiful Tumbesian species not ordinarily found this far north, that thankfully showed well to all of our visiting groups. The same area also held another Tumbesian species, in the form of a fine male Crimson-mantled Finch, that popped up just across the road from a superb male Great Antshrike.

BARRED PUFFBIRD

CALACALI (Dry arid scrub in the interandean valley, 2,800m/9,186ft, around 30 mins drive from Quito).
This dry scrubby area is in sharp contrast to the wet forests of the Tandayapa area, and therefore provides a good opportunity to pick up some extra birds on the ride back to Quito. The main target here was the scarce and local White-tailed Shrike-Tyrant that showed up almost straight away. Along with this dull but scarce flycatcher was a pair of much brighter birds in the form of Golden-rumped Euphonia. Other notable additions in this area included a Burrowing Owl, several Ash-breasted Sierra-finches and Tufted Tit-Tyrants, and an unusually cooperative Spot-billed Ground-Tyrant.

Most of the Mindo Birdathon 'team', right on the equator at the Mitad del Mundo near Quito

Bird List

The taxonomy and nomenclature of this list follow: Ridgely, Robert & Greenfield, Paul. The Birds of Ecuador: Field Guide. 2001. Ithica, NY: Comstock Publishing.

Birds marked with an H were only heard.