Brazil: Atlantic Rainforest IntroTour September 18 - 25, 2008 Tour Leader: Scott Olmstead All photos were taken by the leader during the trip.

Introduction: This is the perfect trip to get your first taste of birding Brazil’s famous Atlantic Forest. Large chunks of well-preserved forest lie almost within daytrip range of Rio de Janeiro and over the course of a week we explore a variety of diverse, endemic-rich habitats. We base ourselves at two comfortable birding lodges: Serra dos Tucanos and Guapi Assu Bird Lodge, both offering easy access to great birding and, of course, unforgettable Brazilian food!

Itinerary: September 18:   Serra dos Órgãos NP, Serra dos Tucanos September 19:   Teodoro Trail, Macaé de Cima September 20:   Pico Caledonia, REGUA wetland September 21:   REGUA Waterfall Trail September 22:   REGUA vicinity September 23:   Sumidouro vicinity September 24:   Cabo Frio, REGUA wetland September 25:   REGUA, Macaé de Cima, Return to Rio

Daily summary:

September 18:  After buffet breakfast we set out from the “cidade maravilhosa” and drove north into the coast range. As we climbed above 1000m elevation, we marveled at the lush montane forests of Serra dos Órgãos National Park, and at our first stop we pulled up a nice assortment of tanagers including Green-headed and Black-goggled Tanagers and Red-crowned Ant-Tanager. A Yellow-rumped Flycatcher was a nice find mixed in with the tanagers.  A little rain could hardly dampen our first day of birding in the Atlantic Forest, and we also enjoyed views of Yellow-browed Woodpecker and a rather soggy Dusky-legged Guan. As the rain let up Ashy-tailed Swifts and an impressive Black Hawk-Eagle took to the air. In the afternoon we made our way to the comfortable Serra dos Tucanos, and spent some time watching the feeders. Sombre Hummingbird and Black Jacobin are among the many Atlantic Forest endemics that are common here; in fact this lodge is perhaps the best site for Sombre Hummingbird anywhere. It was a delight to watch Plain and Maroon-bellied Parakeets side-by-side at the feeders, and of course there were more tanagers here as well, with Golden-chevroned and the spectacular Brazilian Tanager among the more conspicuous species. A Blonde-crested Woodpecker created quite a stir when it visited the upper feeding tray, its crazy crest flopping carelessly about. As the day closed we enjoyed the first of many incredible meals – it is a fact that you do not go hungry on Brazil tours!

September 19:  Before breakfast we took a quick spin on the trails at Serra dos Tucanos, garnering our first view of the ornate Pin-tailed Manakin. Soon we were headed upslope, driving through the Tres Picos State Park and enjoying sunny weather, the rain of yesterday all but forgotten. At the Teodoro Trail we dove right in, getting started with a pair of Black-throated Grosbeaks and a Buff-browed Foliage-gleaner. In the forest Ochre-faced Tody-Flycatcher, Rufous-capped Spinetail, and Berton’s Antbird showed well. Sharpbill and Greenish Schiffornis were not nearly as cooperative, never really sitting still in view long enough for everyone to see. An excitable White-rimmed Warbler did eventually allow a good study. Late in the morning we headed to the Macaé de Cima road, where we picked up a couple of special cotingas. First we scoped up a snow-white male Bare-throated Bellbird across the valley on the opposite slope, his strange, powerful, far-ringing “BONK!!” call giving the impression that he was much closer than he actually was. Then farther up the road, we stopped for lunch near a persistently-singing Black-and-gold Cotinga. The source of the ethereal whistled song was maddeningly hard to locate, as is typical with this ventriloquist species, but eventually after much effort we found the handsome singer and he remained on his perch long enough for everyone to enjoy lengthy scope views. We added Serra Tyrant-Manakin, Orange-eyed Thornbird, and Yellow-eared Woodpecker to the spoils before heading back to Serra dos Tucanos for the night.

September 20:  Today we traveled to Pico Caledonia, a 2000m peak near the town of Nova Friburgo, famous among birders as a site for the enigmatic Gray-winged Cotinga. The birding began on the lower stretches of the steep track up the mountain, and practically the first bird of the morning was a cooperative Brazilian Antthrush singing from a small patch of bamboo just beside the road. We continued up to the stakeout for the cotinga and soon spotted one of these thrush-sized birds flying quickly from tree to tree. The bird was also later heard to sing a few times, but no one was able to get a good look at it perched; the fog rolling in and out did not help matters. There were many mixed flocks moving about, mostly containing flitty Mottle-cheeked Tyrannulets, elegant Diademed Tanagers, and delightful Bay-chested Warbling-Finches. We found Rufous-tailed Antbird, the highest-ranging of the fancy Drymophila antbirds endemic to the Atlantic Forests, to be rather common here. Carrying on uphill we watched a male Giant Antshrike singing from an exposed perch and drew in a sneaky Mouse-colored Tapaculo using a bit of tape recording. Higher still we had a great study of a pair of Rufous-capped Antshrikes and a couple of Spix’s Spinetails. The Itatiaia Thistletail remained quiet and elusive, emerging only for a few tantalizing glimpses. In the afternoon we birded the lower areas below the peak and found our first Burnished-buff Tanagers, a small group of Hooded Siskins, and a nice Aplomado Falcon. Late in the afternoon we headed for the Guapi Assu Ecological Reserve (REGUA) in the lowlands. As we arrived at the Guapi Assu Bird Lodge, our base for the next five nights, we got our first glimpse of the marvelous restored wetland which seems to be home to more and more birds each year. Before dusk we had scoped up a good selection of waterbirds, including Masked Duck and White-faced Whistling-Duck, but leaving a few waterbirds for another day.

September 21:  We got an early start on REGUA’s Waterfall Trail this morning, and spent most of the day walking upslope through very old regenerated second-growth lowland forest to the spectacular waterfall that gives the trail its name. This trail is always a favorite, and it’s actually quite hard to make any progress on it because there are so many birds! Before we had gone far we spotted a Black-and-white Hawk-Eagle soaring over a small clearing. Gaudy Spot-billed Toucanets were very vocal and responsive, providing good views as they moved through the treetops, but probably the biggest surprise of the morning and one of the rarest birds of the trip was a silent Buff-bellied Puffbird perched on a snag above the canopy, just visible through a small window from the trail below. We found good activity in the understory as well, with skulkers like Rufous-breasted Leaftosser, Black-cheeked Gnateater, and the elegant Scaled Antbird showing well. Certainly another highlight for everyone was a band of four male Blue Manakins displaying together, hovering, fluttering, and gurgling excitedly as a team. Mixed flocks gave up Grayish Mourner, Spot-breasted Antvireo, and Ochre-breasted Foliage-gleaner. In the end we did make it all the way to the waterfall, and returned to the lodge with an excellent selection of birds seen, perhaps a bit tired, thirsty for caipirinhas, and ready for another delicious meal and a good night’s sleep.

September 22:  This morning we birded in the secondary growth around the wetland, doing quite well with antbirds, wrens, and other skulkers. The striking, barred Chestnut-backed Antshrike that sat in the open was certainly a favorite, while the stealthy Tufted Antshrike stayed hidden from some. Both Moustached and the Brazilian endemic Long-billed Wrens gave themselves up rather easily, perhaps providing Marilyn with her two favorite birds of the trip in quick succession! In mixed flocks we found Unicolored Antwren, Thrushlike Woodcreeper, and the local luctuosa race of White-flanked Antwren, potentially a good species. The bizarre Southern Antpipit, an aberrant flycatcher that walks on the ground like a tiny antthrush, put on a memorable performance, singing his head off from a low perch as we watched from close range. Perhaps the bird of the morning was the Crescent-chested Puffbird that posed in the shady forest understory for a nice scope study. Of course we did not ignore the waterbirds, enjoying good views of Brazilian Teal, Capped Heron, and Masked Duck. A young Snail Kite that made a brief visit was one of very few records for the reserve. A pair of relaxed Tropical Screech-Owls snoozed the day away not far from the lodge. In the afternoon we headed for a newly acquired property being assimilated into the reserve in search of new birds. We were not disappointed, finding gorgeous old-growth forest on the steep mountain slopes and some good birds to add to our list, including a striking Yellow-fronted Woodpecker clinging to a high snag, a responsive pair of Green-backed Becards, and a pair of Golden-rumped Euphonias that seemed to be working on a nest. White-eared Puffbird was a nice find along the road. Around dusk we returned to the wetland to try for Giant Snipe, which provided a close encounter when it almost took our heads off as we strained our eyes in the fading light. Nightbirds were out in force and we saw a conspicuous Striped Owl and a silent Scissor-tailed Nightjar coursing over the scrubby hillside in ghostly fashion.

September 23:  Today we made a long daytrip to the drier habitats on the interior side of the coast range near the little town of Sumidouro. The biggest target for the day was the poorly known endemic Three-toed Jacamar, which we anticlimactically found with almost no effort at all very early on! Nearby we found a roosting Barn Owl beside the road and enjoyed nice comparative studies of Brown-crested and Swainson’s Flycatchers. We picked up Rufous-fronted Thornbird and Sooretama Sooty-Antshrike in the scrubby edge habitat and a White-tailed Hawk soared overhead. On a narrow back road to the town of Duas Barras we found a pair of Rusty-margined Guans with fluffy young ones in tow and Louis spotted a migrant Yellow-browed Tyrant. By late afternoon we had gotten ourselves into a decent fragment of old forest where we found a fantastic mixed flock with Scaled Woodcreeper, White-collared Foliage-gleaner, and perhaps 10 gaudy Gilt-edged Tanagers. A Gray-hooded Attila lurked nearby.

September 24:  When we rose early and set out on a daytrip to the coast to try for the critically endangered Restinga Antwren we had no idea that we’d be in for one of the biggest surprises of the trip. Early on, we found a Limpkin in marshy grassland as we scanned in vain for seriemas on the hillsides. By midmorning we were at Cabo Frio checking out waterbirds like Roseate Spoonbill and Yellow-billed Tern in the salt pools. At Praia das Conchas we found an excellent remnant patch of the scrubby restinga habitat that was once common along this part of the coast. Here we easily found our quarry the Restinga Antwren as well as the Brazilian endemic Hangnest Tody-Tyrant. With the biggest target out of the way we turned to the shore of a sheltered bay nearby, where Brown Boobies and “Cayenne” Sandwich Terns were cruising past. As we scanned the water we all stopped when we came to a strange waterbird floating on the surface, struggling to get to grips with the image of a Magellanic Penguin bobbing in Rio’s tropical waters. In fact there were six of them! While a few penguins find their way to Brazil most years, this has been a truly exceptional year with apparently over 1,000 penguins coming ashore in Brazil, some as far north as Bahia state, not far south of the equator. While the causes for the influx are not understood there seems to be a link to anomalous ocean currents. Back at REGUA we went for a final walk around the wetland, enjoying White-headed Marsh-Tyrants, Chestnut-capped Blackbirds, and a couple of Muscovy Ducks. A repeat performance was offered by both the Scissor-tailed Nightjar and the Striped Owl, for those who had opted to skip the first outing.

September 25:  After a few days waiting the 4x4 track at REGUA had finally dried out from the heavy rains of the week before and this morning we drove to the top to look for a few new birds for the list. A neatly-dressed White-bibbed Antbird showed well, walking furtively across the forest floor. A Black-throated Trogon sat patiently beside the road and Chestnut-crowned Becard showed well in a mixed flock. Overhead Black Hawk-Eagle soared lazily and Carol spotted a high-flying Mantled Hawk. Since everyone’s flights out of Rio were late in the day, we had just enough time to make a return trip to Macaé de Cima. It was nice to get great repeat views of Yellow-browed Woodpecker, Scale-throated Hermit, and Black-and-gold Cotinga, but the show was definitely stolen by a cooperative Black-billed Scythebill that allowed everyone good looks at its outrageous bill and proved a worthy last bird of the trip. By mid-afternoon it was time to return to Rio for the end of the tour but I don’t think this will be the last birding trip to Brazil for any of us!

Bird List

Totals: 
282 seen (including 5 seen only by the tour leader)
30 heard only

Abbreviations:
H = Heard only
L = Seen only by the leader
(I) = Introduced species
(R) = Reintroduced species at REGUA
(nt) = Considered near-threatened by BirdLife International
(VU) = Considered vulnerable by BirdLife International
(EN) = Considered endangered by BirdLife International

Mammals:

MANED SLOTH (IUCN Red List: Endangered)
BUFFY-TUFTED MARMOSET (IUCN Red List: Endangered)
ORANGE-SPINED HAIRY DWARF PORCUPINE
GUIANAN SQUIRREL

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