SOUTHEAST BRAZIL & THE PANTANAL
(TROPICAL BIRDING custom tour)

30th July - 19th August 2005

Report written by Sam Woods

Guides:
Nick Athanas
Sam Woods

Participants:

Tien-Yuan Chen	Ming-Hsiung Ko
Jeng-Jii Chiou	Mei-Shu Lai
Shu-Fen Chuang	Mu-Chi Tsai
Chi-Lien Hsueh	Guo-Fang Tseng
Yu-Hsia Huang	Hsiu-Liang Tu

Festive Coquette, Folha Seca (Sam Woods)

This tour turned out to be just fantastic, with great company, and a range of genuinely superb accommodation and food. The weather was good throughout most of the trip with serious rain encountered on only one afternoon. The timing of the tour seemed perfect with many species responsive and obliging, so that we had some really superb birds, including over 50 Brazilian endemics in a total of over 490 species recorded. These included Black-and-Gold and Swallow-tailed Cotingas, Bare-throated Bellbirds, Speckle-breasted Antpitta, Giant Antshrike, nearly 30 species of antbirds, and a bunch of brightly-coloured tanagers in the Atlantic forests of the southeast. The Pantanal produced a few surprises, not least the Zigzag Heron that was active during the day, and a pair of roadside Sungrebes, Great Rufous Woodcreepers, Helmeted Manakins, thousands of waterbirds including hundreds of mighty Jabirus, and many Hyacinth Macaws. Some nice views of mammals, including Brazilian Tapir and families of Giant Otters, and the spectacle of hundreds of Caiman meant the Pantanal left a lasting impression with all of us. The large numbers of birds and mammals seen on both parts of the tour gave a us a brilliant overview of both the Pantanal and the Atlantic forests of southeast Brazil.

Itinerary:

 

30th July	Arrival day - Rio de Janeiro and onto Guapi Assu Bird Lodge.
31st July	Guapi Assu Bird Lodge (REGUA)
1st August	Guapi Assu Bird Lodge (REGUA)
2nd August	Macae de Cima, Nova Friburgo
3rd August	Nova Friburgo
4th August	Early AM Around Guapi Assu Bird Lodge and on to Itatiaia NP	PM Itatiaia NP
5th August	Itatiaia National Park
6th August	Agulhas Negras
7th August	AM Itatiaia National Park	PM Traveling to the coast (Agra DOS Reis)
8th August	AM Pereque	PM Travel to Ubatuba
9th August	AM Ubatuba - Folha Seca	PM Ubatuba - Corcovado
10th August	AM Ubatuba - Fazenda Angelim	PM Ubatuba - Corcovado
11th August	Travel to Sao Paulo Airport and fly to Cuiaba
12th August	AM Travel to the Pantanal	PM Pousada Piuval, The Pantanal
13th August	Pousada Piuval, The Pantanal
14th August	AM Pousada Piuval, The Pantanal & onto Fazenda Rio Claro	PM Fazenda Rio Claro, The Pantanal
15th August	Fazenda Rio Claro, The Pantanal
16th August	AM Transpantanal Highway	PM Fazenda Rio Claro, The Pantanal
17th August	AM Depart Pantanal, birding Transpantanal Highway on way	PM Chapada Dos Guimaraes
18th August	Chapada Dos Guimaraes
19th August	Early AM Chapada Dos Guimaraes, and travel back to Cuiaba	PM Flight back to Sao Paulo. End of tour.

Tour Summary:

30th July
Due to a late flight, we had little time for birding on arrival at Guapi Assu, although a brief stop on the way for some low-flying swifts produced great views of Biscutate Swifts amongst a mixed flock. After arrival at the lodge we did manage to see some birds around the garden before the light faded, including our first Brazilian endemic of the trip - Yellow-lored Tody-Flycatcher - and Burnished-Buff and Yellow-backed Tanagers. We retired to the plush lodge with a much appreciated welcome drink of caipirinha awaiting us. Guapi Assu is a very important conservation project protecting over 5000 hectares of threatened Atlantic rainforest between 30 and 2000m altitude.

31st July
We began the tour in earnest by spending the day walking a wide open forest trail that leads to a scenic waterfall, although the numbers of new birds (many of them specialties of the Atlantic forests) prevented us from ever reaching it! It was not long before we saw some Brazilian endemics, with repeated views of both Saw-billed Hermits and Brazilian Rubies at the hummingbird feeders (see photo).

Brazilian Ruby (Sam Woods)

We then headed up the trail and soon picked up the first of many antbirds seen on the trip (over 30 were seen on this tour), with some good views of Star-throated Antwrens, soon followed by a pair of Unicolored Antwrens in the company of White-flanked Antwrens. Not long after, we added more endemics with a close Eye-ringed Tody-Tyrant and a Gray-hooded Attila. A short while later a Southern Antpipit gave us the runaround, but some fortunate people got some close, if brief, views. Yet more antbirds were seen further up with a Streak-capped Antwren moving around in the canopy, while a pair of striking endemic Scaled Antbirds performed well after initially skulking in the undergrowth. However, we could not manage to coax the Shrike-like Cotinga that Nick had seen on his last tour to respond at all, although I guess you have to miss some birds, even on this trip! Some great prolonged views of a male Black-cheeked Gnateater, some nice mixed flocks, and a Sharpbill, made up for it in part.

1st August
This turned out to be really bird packed day with over 100 species seen in a very small area. We found we had not travelled very far as the good birds just kept coming to us, making our progress very slow. We had our first views of dazzlingly red Brazilian Tanagers (which bought audible gasps from many) shortly after reaching the trail, in addition to a pair of Long-billed Wrens. Other birds included Black-capped Foliage-gleaner (surely one of the most stunning furnarids in the world), Yellow-eared Woodpecker, more antbirds with Rufous-winged Antwren, Spot-backed Antshrike and Spot-breasted Antvireo all seen in a very small area, along with the the endemic Sooretama Slaty-antshrike which was seen later inadvertently after the reserve manager informed us he had seen a pair of Crescent-chested Puffbirds which we soon had great views of in addition to the nearby Antshrike. However, I think it is fair to say the pair of White-bibbed Antbirds that uncharacteristically chose to feed on the open path for 5 minutes stole the show as far as the antbirds were concerned (we were not expecting to have such an easy time trying to see that species and it was really satisfying to know everyone enjoyed good, prolonged views of the birds). Bare-throated Bellbirds calling all around us throughout the morning proved typically frustrating to see for some time (particularly as some of the group had seen one well early in the morning), although by the end of the morning we had managed to see several startling white males perched at close range to add our second Cotinga of the trip. Other less colorful birds recorded in that bird-packed morning included some more Brazilian endemics such as Plain Parakeets which flew over us on several occasions, and several Golden-chevroned Tanagers were also encountered, although the male Spot-billed Toucanet that called nearby and eventually decided to come into check out our recording was appreciated far more. After a relaxing lunch back at the lodge we walked around the wetland that can be seen from the lodge. Guapi Assu Bird Lodge and the area around it is a an active conservation project within the Reserva Ecologica de Guapi Assu (or REGUA for short), which has included recently restoring and expanding this wetland. We added some wetland species to the list in this area including Muscovy Ducks, Brazilian Teal, Rufescent Tiger-Herons, Yellow-chinned Spinetails and Moustached Wrens in addition to the seemingly resident Aplomado Falcon, before heading back to the lodge for more Caipirinhas that seemed to grow in popularity as our time at the lodge wore on.

2nd August
We left the lodge early to head up higher in elevation (around 1, 400m) to the forests of Macae de Cima, near the town of Nova Friburgo. The Atlantic forest at this altitude holds some very special birds that are only found higher up. Before reaching the main forest area we were going to spend the say we paused for an hour at some roadside forest along the way which can be remarkably productive if a mixed flock is encountered. Although not as lively as hoped we still managed to see some interesting birds there such as Dusky-tailed Antbird, Red-eyed Thornbird, Chicli (or Spix's) Spinetail, Greenish Schiffornis and White-rimmed Warbler. At the top of the road we stopped at the hummingbird feeders by a private house where we added Scale-throated Hermit and White-throated Hummingbird to the list before heading down the road to bird the forest alongside this quiet, private road. A fast-moving flock along there produced a Black-billed Scythebill that unfortunately only one of us saw at the time, although by the end of the morning (after many brief frustrating flight views of the bird), it finally gave itself up and allowed everyone good views of this quirky-looking bird. Other roadside flocks produced more endemics such as dozens of multi-colored Brassy-breasted Tanagers, Rufous-backed Antshrikes and a few Pallid Spinetails, in addition to boldly patterned Yellow-browed Woodpeckers and a Buff-browed Foliage-gleaner. We especially checked the roadside bamboo stands as there are some specialists to this habitat, and we soon heard a few of these while searching for the Scythebill, and with some gentle luring with a recording we added another Antbird - the endemic Ochre-rumped Antbird - although the Bertoni's Antbird (a recent split from Ferruginous Antbird) calling virtually from the same clump of bamboo gave us the run-around for a while before deciding to show itself to all of us in the end. The long time spent hanging around this area of roadside bamboo paid off for some when a Brazilian Antthrush quietly walked by allowing at least some of us some good, if brief, views of this skulking endemic. Another bamboo specialist - Drab-breasted Bamboo-tyrant - was untypically showy in the same area. On walking back up the road towards the feeders again after some time we soon heard the call of a Hooded Berryeater closeby (sounding strangely like one of the Asian pittas), and soon found the bird sitting motionless in a fruiting tree by the road. As we proceeded further along the road we could hear the mournful calls of many Black-and-Gold Cotingas (see photo below) around us although they were difficult to see in the windy treetops from where they call although eventually we had good scope views of this striking endemic.

Black-and-Gold Cotinga, Macae de Cima (Sam Woods)

A short time later a close-calling Mouse-colored Tapaculo was fortunately close to a convenient gap in the vegetation and was tempted into there allowing most people to see this typically skulking bird. We then headed back up towards the house for lunch on the lawn there while watching the feeders for any new species such as the Amethyst Woodstar that appeared a few times during lunch and an Azure-shouldered Tanager was almost missed by many of the group were it not for the large camera lens pointing towards the bird alerting us to its presence! After adding some great new birds to the list including two new Cotingas, we headed back to Guapi Assu lodge for more great food and Caipirinhas.

3rd August
This day had been left open to use for re-visiting any areas where we may have missed some important birds, so we decided to head back towards Nova Friburgo, this time birding a quiet trail that was the site of an old railroad. As the day warmed and the birds became active we added another woodpecker to the list - the flicker-like Green-barred Woodpecker, in addition to a Rufous-capped Spinetail (which decided to perform unlike the birds we had only heard the day before), a very showy White-shouldered Fire-eye, another Greenish Schiffornis for some of those who had missed the brief bird the day before, Scaled & White-throated Woodcreepers and a few Variable Antshrikes. Although pride of place for the day undoubtedly went to the stunning male Pin-tailed Manakin, not only a monotypic endemic genus, but a really, really good-looking bird. Mixed flocks held some colorful species such as endemic Rufous-headed Tanagers in addition to Blue Dacnises, Chestnut-bellied Euphonias and more Brassy-breasted Tanagers. As the day heated up the bird activity visibly slowed so we headed back to the bus for a late lunch stopping briefly to admire a handsome male Plovercrest feeding for a short time on the trailside Impatience flowers. After lunch we explored another trail for a short time seeing another endemic Tanager - Olive-Green Tanager, and also some Blue-naped Chlorophonias and a Black-throated Grosbeak although as time was getting on and bird activity was particularly slow we decided to head back to Guapi Assu for some well-earned rest (and maybe some more Copereinas!)

4th August
The early part of the morning was spent 'relaxing' and birding around the Guapi Assu Bird Lodge garden although the high level of bird activity left little time to relax. Soon after first light we began adding more species to the bird list such as Rufous-breasted Hermit feeding on flowers at the edge of the lawn, and Rufous-tailed Jacamar was very popular with the keen photographers on the tour putting on a lengthy show for them. A White-chinned Sapphire visited the flowers by the feeders several times although managed to miss the gaze of may of us. More appreciated was the bold Blonde-crested Woodpecker that after distantly calling back to the tape for around an hour eventually decided to come over to the lodge and investigate. Other birds seen included Campo Flickers, White-winged Becard, Lemon-chested Greenlet and Chestnut-backed Antshrike. We then forced the photographers to leave the Jacamar alone so that we could head to Itatiaia, (Brazil's oldest and perhaps best known national park), stopping for lunch along the way. On reaching the park we checked into our idyllic accommodation, perched on the edge of the forest and right beside their restaurant which has a number of well-placed hummingbird and fruit feeders alongside the restaurant window. The frenzy of bird activity at the feeders on our arrival was unbelievable and many of the group soon abandoned their bags to take photos of the many Blue-naped Chlorophonias, Green-headed & Olive-green Tanagers and Chestnut-bellied Euphonias around the fruit feeders, while the hummingbird feeders provided some new species such as the distinctive Black Jacobin, and the less obvious Versicolored Emerald. We also soon had great views of the breathtaking Yellow-fronted Woodpeckers feeding at the fruit trays, although unfortunately the regular Saffron Toucanets failed to put in an appearance at that time. After a serious level of overeating at the restaurant due to the enormous variety of good food on offer, we went for a leisurely stroll along the road near the hotel and despite it being fairly quiet we still managed to add some endemics such as White-collared Foliage-gleaner, Grey-capped Tyrannulet and Gilt-edged Tanager, in addition to some other interesting birds such as Magpie Tanager, White-browed Foliage-gleaner and Green-winged Saltator. We then walked back to the hotel, frequently commenting on the rediculous abundance of the Dusky-legged Guans at Itatiaia where you can sometimes see over 12 birds together walking around on roadside lawns! After another absolutely amazing buffet where we were well and truly spoilt for choice (leading to yet more over indulgence), we retired to our excellent rooms at the Hotel do Ype for the night noticing the cooler climate at this altitude (1150m), compared to the lowlands of Guapi Assu.

5th August
We were soon distracted from our early breakfast by a Ferruginous Pygmy-Owl perched by the window and the hoped for Saffron Toucanets by the feeders, before we had even finished eating. The plan was then to head straight for the Tres Picos trail, a closeby trail well-known to visiting birders, although the number of birds coming into the feeders and surrounding flowering trees around the hotel halted our progress for sometime. In addition to the well-appreciated Toucanets we saw many Maroon-bellied Parakeets and a fine Red-breasted Toucan in the red-flowering trees around the hotel along with some Velvety Black-Tyrants (yet another Brazilian endemic-see photo below) by the poolside, a Rufous-capped Motmot that would have been visible from some of the groups rooms (had they been in there), a Planalto Woodcreeper.

Velvety Black-Tyrant, Itatiaia National Park (Sam Woods)

Although best of all was a Swallow-tailed Cotinga seen in trees behind the restaurant (see photo), which the photographers were well placed for due to their well-chosen decision to remain at the feeders for the abundant photographic possibilities. A few minutes after leaving the Cotinga we encountered another two in a tree by the road a short way down from the hotel (and another was later seen on the trail).

Swallow-tailed Cotinga, Itatiaia National Park (Sam Woods)

More birds along the roadside delayed us from reaching the trail such as our first Eared Pygmy-Tyrants of the trip, before we finally made it to the trail and soon saw some Large-headed Flatbills and a small flock of the foliage-gleaner-like endemic Brown Tanager and were soon after chasing a calling White-bearded Antshrike which although initially proved awkward to see in the dense bamboo that it remained in, we soon appreciated the fact that it chose to remain there once we managed to get the scope well-positioned. Some good feeding flocks were encountered along the trail with a number of colorful Tanagers such as Gilt-edged & Brassy-breasted Tanagers side-by-side and a diversity of Furnarids in them including White-browed, Buff-fronted & Black-capped Foliage-gleaners as well as our first Sharp-billed Treehunters of the trip. Although one stretch of the trail bought us two really good birds - first a small covey of Spot-winged Wood-Quails crossed the trail several times, allowing any who missed them the first time to catch them on the repeat run, and then strangest of all was an owl heard calling for a long period in late morning that at the time we were unsure of. Therefore we spent a long period of time taping the bird in close, although as it seemed determined to remain in a very dense canopy we had resigned ourselves to leaving the bird unnamed, before Mr. Tsai quietly announced he had the bird (sending the guides into a panic as we could not understand their Mandarin directions to the bird and we were still unsure what the bird was, although we were fairly sure it had to be something good!) After we all finally got on the small area of the bird that was visible and maneuvered ourselves where we could examine it more closely, it confirmed Nick's suspicions that the bird was indeed a good one - Variable Screech-Owl - and a lifer for all on the trip. We then headed back for lunch stopping for a calling antbird that we had hoped would be Squamate, only for the bird that came into the call of Squamate to turn out to be another White-bibbed Antbird. During lunch Sam had seen a male Tufted Antshrike behind our cabins and with a little patience we all eventually saw the bird soon after lunch. The afternoon after then was spent birding the roadside near the same trail as it was very active in the morning and although the activity had definitely slowed since then we had some good birds there, including a pair of Robust Woodpeckers (that had eluded us in the morning despite repeated attempts to lure them in) another Rufous-capped Motmot and an uncharacteristically showy Rufous Gnateater. Another evening of bountiful food led us to bed for an early night in preparation for our early start the following morning.

6th August
After an hour or so drive from our accommodation (after a much appreciated early breakfast at the hotel), we reached the Algulhas Negras road. The road climbs from around 1700m at the start to about 2300m and so was extremely chilly just after first light, although this did not seem to bother the singing Black-and-Gold Cotinga that we scoped just after getting out of the bus. New birds came fast up here as we had not yet ventured this high on the trip and we soon picked up and saw a calling Grey-bellied Spinetail (a very localized bird), small flocks of Diademed Tanagers were welcome and were the first of many seen on the day, along with a our first White-spotted Woodpeckers, Red-rumped Warbling-finches were common along there and sometimes seen side-by-side with the scarcer endemic Bay-chested Warbling-finch, and of course on this trip there had to be more antbirds to see and soon after first light we lured in another one - Rufous-tailed Antbird - a bird that is confined to high altitude bamboo stands in Brazil. Although a call further up the road soon hurried us on and we all waited nervously for a time as the bird came in to the tape and continued to call back but evaded anyone's attention until Nick finally found the Speckle-breasted Antpitta lurking in the shadows on the forest floor which, despite the fact the bird was only visible in a tiny hole, most people managed to get a view of in the end. We also had views of two more Plovercrests including a male which allowed us to fully appreciate it's true beauty by feeding close to us in the open on roadside flowers for a more prolonged period than our last sighting. After struggling for a response a Serra do Mar Tyrannulet (a flycatcher confined to Brazil), finally decided to give itself up, although the hoped Black-capped Piprites eluded us for a while until later down the road when we halted the bus to pick up some of the photographers (who had moved on ahead to photograph an approachable male Surucua Trogon) when a Piprites called on the other side of the road. Unfortunately this bird decided to respond atypically to tape-luring and fly away from the noise, although I think most of the group had good, if briefer than hoped-for, views. Having seen many of the star birds by this time we continued up the mountain road, climbing in altitude until a small stand of Auracaria trees beside the road where we pulled over and after initially flying around and hiding in the dense canopies we all eventually had superb views of the extremely localized Auracaria Tit-Spinetail, a bird completely confined to stands of these distinctive trees. Having seen many of the specialties we decided to lunch by a larger stand of Auracarias before climbing higher along the road to around 2200-2300m, for one of our last main targets, an extremely localized Brazilian endemic that is confined to scrub and forest at higher altitudes there. On leaving the bus we immediately heard the contact call of the Itatiaia Thistletail (Spinetail), although despite the bird coming in it remained untypically elusive in the scrub and was not seen well by anyone, so we continued on up the road and searched for another one. This proved difficult in the early afternoon heat as activity was understandably low, although after about three quarters of an hour of frustration we heard one closeby which behaved more obligingly, by showing well to us all, revealing it's distinctive tawny throat when singing back at us. Having reached almost the highest point along the road we headed back down the road where bird diversity would increase again and looked for some of the species that were eluding us, that included Shear-tailed Grey-Tyrant that only a few of us had managed to see in the morning. Fortunately we saw a few flycatching from the treetops on the way back down, in addition to a characteristically elusive Brown-breasted Bamboo-tyrant that unfortunately was only seen by a few of us, although a White-crested Tyrannulet was much more accommodating. In the late afternoon we headed back to the Hotel do Ype for a last night of serious feasting there before heading off towards the coast.

7th August
We only had a morning left at Itatiaia, before we headed to the coastal lowland forests, so we decided to concentrate on some of the difficult interior forest birds along the Tres Picos trail. The decision was a good one, and a short way up the trail a Slaty Bristlefront called extremely near to us and this typically elusive and difficult species then gave repeated close views allowing us all to see the bizarre tuft of feathers that this Tapaculo is named after. Not a bird that would first spring to mind, although the quirkiness of this bird and the amazing views that everyone had of it led some to name it as their favorite bird of the trip. It was pleasing to see this bird here as it meant we did not have to rely on another site where Nick had more frequently encountered it. Some Pileated Parrots near the start of the trail were also new for us. Unfortunately as before the Such's Antthrushes appeared largely oblivious to our tape and so eluded us, although a Giant Antshrike calling ahead had us heading up the trail with greater urgency. As their loud calls carry for such great distances they sometimes appear much closer than they actually are and they are far more frequently heard than seen (we had heard on many occasions over the last few days), so Nick decided to plough ahead to see if there was anyway to get closer to it. Fortunately someone had recently trodden a small trail into the forest at an opportune point and we steamed in there, all the while the bird calling loudly nearby. A short time later Nick found the bird sitting high in a dense bamboo stand where we watched it calling in our scopes for a long time, all appreciating the enormity of this well-named antshrike and watching the extremely long tail bobbing up and down each time it called. It was easy to understand how a bird like this could be so difficult to see when the bird steadfastly remained at its chosen singing post the whole time, where we eventually had to leave it and head back to the hotel, with the antshrike's far-carrying calls sounding behind us all the while. Although there was just enough time before leaving the bird to have good flight views of a lucky Black-and-White Hawk-Eagle that flew over us while we were admiring the antshrike. We then packed up and left for the quiet coastal town of Angra dos Reis where we spent the night in some pleasant chalets.

8th August
Thankfully (like all the hotels on this trip), this one was very accommodating being only to happy to provide us with a well-needed very early breakfast, before we drove to the coastal lowland woodlands near the town of Pereque. The forest at near sea-level there, is home to one of the most rare and localized of the Brazilian endemics seen on the trip - the globally-threatened Black-hooded Antwren (a bird that at one time had been unrecorded for over 100 years before its rediscovery in 1987) . Apart being a rare and endemic bird, the male at least is a very smart one, so we were pleased to connect with a pair a short time after arriving (although most of us had to be satisfied with a female initially before one of the photographers produced a stunning photo of a male and we put a concerted effort into seeing that bird where he had taken the shot). Unfortunately on arrival we had noticed a locked gate had been erected in one area, which prevented us entering a known territory for Squamate Antbird, so we confined ourselves to the road seeing some striking birds such as Channel-billed Toucans of the far more colorful orange-breasted race, some male White-bearded Manakins, Red-necked Tanagers and some more Yellow-fronted & Blonde-crested Woodpeckers. A few less colorful (although no less appreciated) birds were added to the list such as Neotropical River Warbler and Half-collared Sparrow (now a Brazilian endemic as it has been split from Pectoral), that both showed well and more Red-eyed Thornbirds were also recorded (see photo).

Red-eyed Thornbird, Pereque (Sam Woods)

We then had a stroke of luck when we met the caretaker for some of the land who was only too happy to lend us the keys to the gate to the area for the Squamate Antbird, although before we reached the place we heard and briefly saw another endemic - Hangnest Tody-Tyrant which unfortunately eluded many of us. We then walked into the forest where the antbird was calling and spent much time trying to get views of the bird in the dense ground cover, a female of which we amazingly all saw in the end. As we approached lunch time we stopped at a good restaurant in the town before we proceeded westwards along the coast to the town of Ubatuba, where we checked in for two nights at an amazing hotel where the seafood is out of this world and that it rightfully has a significant reputation for (everyone in the group seemed suitably blown away by their excellent seafood dishes).

9th August
We left our hotel after another easily arranged early breakfast and drove around 20 minutes to a private residence at Folha Seca (that means 'dry leaf' in Portuguese), where there are a number of very lively fruit and hummingbird feeders, and it was not long before we were getting our first glimpses of the amazing Festive Coquettes there. Although the serious photographers were determined to stay behind for the many photo opportunities available we managed at least to drag some people away from the feeders so that we could concentrate on the forest birds when they are active in the early morning with a promise that we would return to the feeders later. As we proceeded up an overgrown trail nearby we flushed up some Ruddy Quail-doves that must have been feeding alongside the path, although the narrow trail meant few people had decent views. In a bamboo stand further along though we soon enjoyed great views of one of the days target birds - the fantastic Ferruginous Antbird - and another endemic, Fork-tailed Tody-Tyrant, also showed well a short time later (and another two were seen well further on). As we reached a more open area we added Green-backed Becard and Reddish Hermit to the list and enjoyed more views of Sharpbill and Saffron Toucanets. We then headed down a short more open trail and soon managed to get some really close satisfying views of another of our target species there - Tawny-throated Leaftosser at a known territory, before we retired back to the feeders for a multitude of well-used photo opportunities, including more great views of the Coquette (see photo), another endemic hummer, Sombre Hummingbird and many Tanagers and parrots (including great views of Plain Parakeets and Brazilian & Azure-shouldered Tanagers). However a brief respite from the photography was necessary when a Pale-browed Treehunter called closeby, an endemic furnarid that eluded us so far, and we all got views of this Bromeliad specialist as it rooted around for insects in amongst the canopy bromeliads betraying its presence there by scattering moss and debris as it did so. We then headed for lunch near Ubatuba before heading to Corcovado to look for the Russet-winged Spadebill, although rain stopped play soon after and we agreed to look for it again if weather favored us the next day. We the fled back to our accommodation to enjoy more amazing seafood stew, a much-appreciated local specialty, that evening.

10th August
We left our hotel early as usual and drove the short 25 minute drive to Fazenda Angelim, a private area of lowland forest (only around 20-50m above sea-level) that holds some rare Atlantic forest endemics. Before we had gone far down the path we heard a Squamate Antbird so as many people had struggled for decent views of a grotty female the day before at Pereque, we decided to see if going in here would be more rewarding. It proved to be a good move as we all had stunning close views of a much better-plumaged male bird. As Nick went to sort out permits Guo-Fang found one of our target birds perched typically unobtrusively at the top of a dead tree - Buff-throated Purpletuft, a tiny, diminutive endemic cotinga. As we continued to watch it the bird flew into another tree joining another bird there, which after a short time stood up to reveal a largish white chick that it had been sheltering from the sun underneath its body. It was genuinely amazing how such a tiny bird could hide a chick underneath it in the smallest snag of a bare tree. We then continued up another forest trail hoping to hear a Spotted Bamboowren that we had hoped to see here although we failed to get any response at the time. However we did bump into another Crescent-chested Puffbird that showed well (see photo).

Crescent-chested Puffbird, Fazenda Angelim (Sam Woods)

We also encountered a nice flock of birds in some open trees and added Ochre-breasted Foliage-gleaner to the trip list for many who had missed the earlier one at Guapi Assu, in addition to a Thrush-like Woodcreeper, although the Spotted Bamboowren continued to remain silent. We then got lucky again when a low-flying raptor proved to the endemic White-necked Hawk. We then headed back the way we came trying several more territories in vain for the wren until we reached the last one played a tape, got no response, left the area and began to head back whereupon the bird quietly called back from where we had been standing! So we piled back in there hastily and soon everyone managed to get great views of this odd-looking bird (that looks nothing like the rest of the tapaculo family to which it belongs). We were then only too happy to head down to the scenic seafront in Ubatuba for some excellent barbecued food, before heading to Corcovado to look again for the elusive Russet-winged Spadebill (that of course once again eluded us despite much effort, as did the calling Blue-bellied Parrots nearby). Although our time was not completely wasted there, when Sam noticed two birds fly over with deeply forked tails that soon alighted in some near trees so we could enjoy further views of Swallow-tailed Cotingas (never a bad thing in my book!) This brought a nice end to the Atlantic forest part of the tour with one of the most special birds found there and we were soon looking ahead to the Pantanal...

11th August
This was essentially a travel day, with no birding, as we drove initially from Ubatuba to Sao Paulo catching a domestic flight to Cuiaba, where we spent the night at a hotel close to the airport. Although the birding was nonexistent the day will best be remembered for perhaps some of the best food on the tour when we tried a local Charascaria near to the hotel. The waiters were relentless in bring huge varieties of meats to our table although they may not have banked on our huge capacity to consume them, and I think it is fair to say we all suffered that night after a period of serious overindulgence!

12th August
After breakfast we met with our new driver for this part of the tour and loaded up the bus and headed for the Pantanal, only a few hour drive from Cuiaba. Before we had even reached the main Transpantanal highway we were picking up some spectacular new birds such as Toco Toucans - the largest species in this popular family and one made most famous from the Guiness drink adverts, Orange-backed Troupials and Yellow-chevroned & Peach-fronted Parakeets. A short way from Pocone that marks the start of the famous Transpantaneira (or the Transpanatal Highway), we began to see some of the birds for which it is rightly famous, such as a pair of mighty Jabirus collecting nesting material for their huge tree nest (see photo), while a small group of Greater Rheas were a new family for many on the trip.

Jabiru, The Pantanal (Sam Woods)

We soon saw our first if hundreds of Caiman for the trip, loafing by roadside pools, that also gave us our first views of Capybaras (like a giant oversized Guinea Pig), and many waterbirds such as Rufescent Tiger-herons, Cocoi Herons, Ringed & Green Kingfishers, Limpkins and Buff-necked & Bare-faced Ibises. It was very difficult to pull people away from these pools but we wanted to ensure we reached at the resort by lunchtime and we knew we would have many more opportunities to admire the masses of waterbirds and animals. We stopped and walked along much of the entrance track to the ranch we were staying at Pousada Piuval, which proved to have some excellent birds. We played the Ferruginous Pymgy-Owl tape in the hope of stirring up some passerines in the roadside scrub and before long we were being mobbed by Pearly-vented Tody-Tyrants, Masked Gnatcatchers, White-wedged Piculets, Rusty-backed Antwrens, Southern Beardless & Plain Tyrannulets, proving what a useful method for finding birds having a pygmy-owl call to hand can be (a method that was to be used endlessly in the Pantanal to good effect). While we were still sifting through the frantic mobbing hord of passerines, we caught our first site of one of the Pantanal's undoubted stars - a flock of loud croaking Hyacinth Macaws flew in landed briefly and we watched their giant blue frames disappear off into the distance leaving us desperate for more. We finally reached the ranch, seeing our first Chestnut-eared Aracari at the ranch itself (see photo) the fierce midday heat and were glad to check into our air-conditioned rooms and enjoy a good buffet before we had a little more relaxation time than we had been used too by then, to wait for the temperatures to drop to more reasonable levels.

Chestnut-eared Aracari, Pousada Piuval (Sam Woods)

Over lunch we learnt that Mr. Tsai was one of the more serious listers of the group when he put in a special request for two new families for his list - Seriemas and Sungrebe, although for the latter we politely advised 'forget it'! As we headed out towards the boat port in the bus for our afternoon trip down the river we soon ran into a pair of Red-legged Seriemas, fulfilling one of his requests anyhow (I think Mr. Tsai was a little surprised how soon after mentioning them he had the opportunity to see them). We had barely got back in the bus from seeing these when we encountered our first rare Cracid of the trip - a pair of Bare-faced Currassows at the edge of the forest that sent the cameras on the bus into overdrive. It really was an impressive short drive to the boat port as we then came across a Sunbittern feeding on small pool beside the bus, a bird that even if you have seen it before you fell compelled to look at (see photo).

Sunbittern, Pousada Piuval (Sam Woods)

We finally boarded our boat after that mad run of great birds and were then treated to the spectacle of hundreds of waterbirds (including Roseate Spoonbills, Wood Storks, Maguaris, Striated, Cocoi & Black-crowned Night-herons) and Caiman along the river, including over 100 Jabirus in view at one time. A massive Southern Screamer that flew by and then fed close to our boats was a welcome new family for some on the trip. Just after a blood-red sunset started to fade dozens of nighthawks, (made up of mostly Band-tailed Nighthawks with some larger Nacunda Nighthawks in there as well), were watched hawking low over the water close to our boats that was a really nice way to bring our introductory exploration of the Pantanal to a close. We then fled the emerging mosquitos to go back to the tranquility of the ranch.

13th August
Morning saw us back on the boat again picking up some Plumbeous Ibis, although some of the more significant additions to the bird list for the day were found in the gallery forest patches around the ranch. We made an unofficial stop at one of these along the river and found a Black-fronted Nunbird, a pair of Red-billed Scythebills, Blue-fronted & Orange-winged Parrots, Buff-bellied Hermit, Mato Grasso Antbird and White-lored Spinetail all hiding in this small forest patch, in addition to some Silvery Marmosets and a family of Black Howler Monkeys. We then headed back to the port for midmorning due to another booking for the boat coming in, although this allowed us to bump into one of the most startling surprise birds of the trip. After seeing a pair of Cream-colored Woodpeckers, Large-billed Antwren and a Great Antshrike (even in the Pantanal we were adding more antbirds to the burgeoning list) by the port we were attempting to tape in a Buff-breasted Wren when a large barred bird flew into the low bushes where we were looking for the wren, hopped about in the bushes for a while and then stood motionless at the water's edge. It was at this point that we allowed our first impressions to be confirmed, and Sam announced what had undoubtedly been on everyone's minds - we were watching a Zigzag Heron (see photo), a bird that is more normally secretive, and more significantly, nocturnal.

Zigzag Heron, Pousada Piuval (Sam Woods)

We simply had to watch this bird for some time as we were privileged to have seen this species in such good light (normally seen by the light of a torch), before we headed back to bird the gallery forest alongside the dirt track back to the lodge. We soon heard a Band-tailed Antbird calling and went into the forest after them, soon enjoying great views of a pair there, and picking up some other good birds while we in there including a stunning male Helmeted Manakin and a Flavescent Warbler. Back on the track we added a further 2 woodpeckers to the list - Little & Golden-green Woodpeckers, and on walking further back to the lodge we bumped into more Hyacinth Macaws which thankfully this time perched for a long time in the trees above us, and more views of the same Sunbittern were welcomed by the photographers amongst us. We then retired back to the ranch from the intense midday heat and ventured out later searching more forest patches, picking up the other rare Cracid that we were looking for there - Chestnut-bellied Guan in amongst the commoner Chaco Chachalacas. The forest patches around there bought us other new birds including Crimson-crested Woodpecker and Dull-capped (White-eyed) Attila, Solitary Cacique, Grey-crested Cacholote, Swallow-wing and Blue-crowned Trogon. As we headed back to the ranch in the late afternoon we encountered some more Nacunda Nighthawks hunting insects over the grasslands.

14th August
The morning after breakfast was spent birding the entrance track again, picking up some difficult birds such as White-naped Xenopsaris and more significantly a pair of Chotoy Spinetails that proved to be a landmark bird for the trip, as it was Mr. Tsai's 4,000th bird. We then headed towards our next port of call - the Pousada Rio Claro ranch further south along the Transpantaneira. While traveling there we counted no fewer than 11 Bare-faced Currasows, and added Green Ibis, White-backed Stilt and Greater Thornbird to the list. After checking in and noting the rediculous number of Yellow-billed Cardinals at the feeders there we headed out on a boat ride up river after lunch. Soon after heading out Sam saw a distant large gray lump which on moving closer proved to be a Brazilian Tapir feeding on the bankside vegetation, that soon retreated when we approached. We all managed to get views of a Pale-crested Woodpecker and Rusty-backed Spinetails, although we were frustrated by a Great Rufous Woodcreeper that called only a few times. However, one lucky boat got great views of an Undulated Tinamou walking along the river bank. Unfortunately at the time the other boat was experiencing some serious engine trouble and had fallen behind (that ultimately resulted in one boat towing the other one back to the ranch).

15th August
After hearing the Great Rufous Woodcreeper the day before calling from riverside woodland, we decided to walk along the trail that runs towards that area in the hope of seeing one. Unfortunately we failed again on that one, although saw some interesting birds that we had not yet seen such as Stripe-necked Tody-Tyrant and Rusty-fronted Tody-Flycatcher in addition to some better views of birds we had seen before like Little Woodpecker. During lunchtime Mr. Tsai and his wife had reason to celebrate (again) as the Nanday Parakeets they had found were the 4000th bird for her. In the afternoon we headed out on the boat again, this time in the other direction along some quieter stretches of water seeing an American Pygmy-kingfisher and some more views of Toco Toucans as they cruised across from one side to the other. We also got our first glimpses of Giant Otters, one of which continued feeding right beside one of the boats with little concern for us. The trees covered in pink flowers alongside the river were often loaded with Guans, it seemed like all of these flowering trees contained a guan of some sort, with some trees holding several individuals of three separate species - Red-throated Piping-guans, Chestnut-bellied Guans and Chaco Chachalacas, and we also saw a Bare-faced Currassow feeding in one of these. Golden-collared Macaws also flew over the boat on one occasion. On heading back as dusk fell we were again treated to the site of dozens of Band-tailed Nighthawks hunting insects low over the water around the boat.

16th August
Having seen many of our target birds in the Pantanal already we were in serious danger of running out of birds to look for, so we headed further south along the Transpantaneira in search of some other species, soon picking up Cinerous-breasted Spinetail and Buff-breasted Wrens both of which we had heard several times before. A walk along the road for some time paid off when Sam flushed a pair of Boat-billed Herons from a roost, with one bird at least showing well in the open for great views and photos.

Boat-billed Heron, The Pantanal Highway (Sam Woods)

As the heat increased we decided to head slowly back to the ranch birding along the way. While we stopped to photograph some Peach-fronted Parakeets we had a fortuitous encounter with a European birder who informed us 2km further along the road he had just seen a Sungrebe. We joked with the group that we may not have time to go and look for it, but we knew few of them (especially Mr. Tsai) were not going to accept no for an answer, so we headed rapidly back there, with our initial searches of this heavily vegetated lagoon returning nothing until a whistle alerted us to Nick having found it, whereupon we all lost our heads (and decorum) and ran at top speed towards him (our panic heightened somewhat by the site of oncoming car that might scare the bird back into the vegetation). However our fears were not realized and we all watched the bird at close range, which was later joined by a second bird, for some time (see photo). Indeed on showing photos of the bird to the photographers, who had chosen to stay behind for further chances of photos, they even managed to return there later in the day and see them equally well, much to their relief.

Sungrebe, The Pantanal Highway (Sam Woods)

This was a real surprise bird for us, and especially Mr. Tsai as we had basically told him we had no chance of this bird only a few days previously. He was particularly pleased with this as it was a new family for him and as we had superb views of this enigmatic bird, which for him anyway, was bird of the trip. Satisfied with our morning haul we headed back to the ranch for more excellent food and to relax during the heat of the day before our final boat ride in the afternoon once the day had cooled at least a little. Having seen many of the birds in the area we did not expect much from the ride, although it was good to get more great views of Bare-faced Currassow and pick up Red-crested Cardinals for those who had previously missed them at the feeders at Pousada Piuval. Once again the guans were out in force, with all three species seen again feeding in the blooming trees alongside the river, although pride of place for the ride undoubtedly went to the Great Rufous Woodcreepers. This was a bird we had repeatedly searched for in vain for over the last few days, only for this pair to give themselves up easily by perching in the open tops of the trees even allowing some of us to get scope views from the boat. Another great bird and a lifer for all. As we headed back to the ranch we saw some more Large-billed Terns and also added a Black Skimmer that passed by as the light faded, swooping briefly to skim the river surface with its massive, deformed bill.

17th August
We departed the Pantanal birding along the Transpantanal on the way back, adding some new species such as Guira & Hooded Tanagers and get parting views of majestic Hyacinth Macaws that flew past close to the bus. We then left the Pantanal behind and headed for the dry cerrado around Chapada dos Guimaraes. As we were climbing upto around 800m we expected to be refreshed by the cooler mountain air, although it seemed as if the area was going through a mini heat wave as their was no let up from the heat there either. After a frustrating search we finally located a restaurant that was open along the way and as we waited for our food added Blue-browned Motmot, Red-crested Finch and White-bellied Warbler to the list. On reaching Chapada we first birded along a paved road where the flowering trees alongside there seemed to be filled with hummingbirds and we soon saw White-vented Violetear, Black-throated Mango and Glittering-bellied Hummingbird. We also had brief views of a pair of Blue-and-Yellow Macaws as they flew over, although the roadside Red-legged Honeycreepers were far more obliging. Thankfully by the time we reached the 'cerrado road' that leads to Agua Fria the day had cooled a little and was comfortable for birding. Despite the apparent ugliness of the scrub habitat along the road it holds some really special birds and so we planned to visit there on this day to give us an extra chance at finding some of the harder species there. As soon as we got out of the car we were greeted by the site of a White-eared Puffbird perched on the wires, and a short period of 'trawling' with the tape paid off when a pair of White-rumped Tanagers flew in. However it largely seemed much quieter than expected with very little bird activity until a Rufous-winged Antshrike (see photo) put in an appearance and there followed a very frantic ten minute period where new birds appeared to be everywhere.

Rufous-winged Antshrike, Chapada dos Guimaraes (Sam Woods)

We had little time to enjoy the antshrike as one of the rare birds in the area called closeby - a Rufous-sided Pygmy-Tyrant, which while looking for we picked up another of our targets, the strangely shrike-like White-banded Tanager, before we all had great looks at the Pygmy-Tyrant. We then picked up a small flock of Black-throated Saltators although had little time to enjoy them before we were onto the next bird - a pair of Coal-crested Finches perched by the roadside, just before a Red-and-Green Macaw flew low past us. It really was hard keeping track of all the action around us. With all the bird activity we had stayed later than intended so headed towards the extravagant Pousada Penhasco resort so that we could check in before dark. We were pleased to have such plush surroundings for the end of the tour, with a superb selection of food available to us in the evening.

18th August
For our final full day we decided to start by going back to the cerrado road where we had gone the afternoon before to look for some of the birds we missed. We soon saw one of the - a male Horned Sungem which unfortunately did not linger at the roadside flowers for a long as we hoped, and Pale-breasted Spinetail was seen shortly afterwards. Although our trawling for one of Chapada's most highly sought after birds - the Collared Crescentchest, seemed to be falling on deaf ears until we heard one off into the distance and Nick and I discussed whether going all that way for it was likely to produce the required result, when another one called much closer sending us heading straight for it. On uttering the words it sounds like it is right here Sam and Nick both got onto the bird which then rapidly disappeared and remained silent to frustrate the rest of the group who were slightly behind. Despite a concerted effort to lure the bird in (which did at least get Guo-Fang some brief close views), the bird largely remained hidden and such typical behavior betrayed its position within the skulking tapaculo family. We finally had to give up the search for this individual in the slim hope of picking up another one further down the road, which amazingly within a short time we did. On hearing this one we all rushed in with greater urgency before Sam picked it up perched in a low bush in the open so that all of us could really appreciate this exquisite bird. We also saw some of the birds we had enjoyed the day before such as White-eared Puffbird and White-banded Tanagers although as the oppressive heat moved in we decided to head back to the resort and bird a less exposed shady forest trail on the grounds. This allowed us to get views of a pair of the hoped-for Planalto Slaty-Antshrikes, in addition to more views of Helmeted Manakin and also yet another new spinetail - Sooty-fronted Spinetail. Another new hummingbird was added with a Planalto Hermit seen nearby, although as everyone was pretty exhausted and heat-drained from the continuing heat wave we decided to retire to the hotel and venture out once the day had cooled a little. After lunch we headed to the impressive Bridal Veil Falls for some other specialties and we soon saw one of these - Blue-winged Macaw, flying around the trees near the base of the falls. Hepatic Tanagers in his area were also new for the trip, although the rare swift we had come to see made us wait until late afternoon to appear when we watched these Great Dusky Swifts diving dramatically through the waterfall to roost behind on the rocky cliff behind. It was while watching these that we noticed a Bat Falcon hunting dragonflies and were treated to extremely close views of this tiny falcon dismantling its prey on a nearby perch (see photo).

Bat Falcon, Chapada dos Guimaraes (Sam Woods)

19th August
Our last morning of the tour, before we headed back for our flight connections, was spent birding the paved road we had first birded in this area for final few hours of birding. We still added new species with the stunning Yellow-tufted Woodpecker seen almost straight away, and a Saffron-billed Sparrow was finally seen towards the end of our walk along there. Although undoubtedly the star bird of the day was a hummingbird that Mr. Tsai had found perched when few of us had decent views of. Luckily another two were seen further along the road and seeing that they were one of the stunning Coquettes, intially assumed them to be Dot-eared Coquettes as they are the ones normally reported by people from this area. However after close examination they proved to be another highly sought-after bird for the trip - the very similar Frilled Coquette, particularly satisfying for us as we had missed them earlier on the trip perhaps due to the normal feeders for the bird having been left idle. It was a good bird to end on - really stunning hummird and an endemic one at that.

We then headed back to Cuiaba for our connection to Sao Paulo, where we bid a fond farewell to Guo-Fang and his group. The trip had exceeded expectations - we had a really good haul of over 490 species, including over 50 Brazilian endemics, some real surprises such as the Sungrebe and Zigzag Heron, and enjoyed some great views of many of these. In addition to the birds the great company and simply fantastic accommodation and food on the trip made it a truly memorable one.

BIRD LIST
The list includes all the bird species that were recorded by at least one of us.

Taxonomy and nomenclature follow:
Clements, James F. 2000. Birds of the World: A Checklist. Fifth edition. Vista, CA: Ibis Publishing Co.
I have also included the latest updates to the list (these can be found online at http://www.ibispub.com/updates.html).

Birds in RED are Brazilian endemics.
Birds marked with an H were only heard.

Greater Rhea Rhea americana
A small group seen near the start of the Transpantaneira, before reaching the Pousada Piuval, were the only ones recorded.
Brown Tinamou Crypturellus obsoletus H
Heard at REGUA, Macae de Cima and Ubatuba.
Undulated Tinamou Crypturellus undulatus
As expected Tinamous were typically difficult with this bird being no exception being heard on many days in the Pantanal. Unfortunately while one of the boats was experiencing engine trouble and had been left behind, the other boat managed to get several views of a bird walking along the river bank at Pousada Rio Claro.
Tataupa Tinamou Crypturellus tataupa H
Heard once at Pereque and once at Chapada dos Guimaraes.
Red-winged Tinamou Rhynchotus rufescens H
Heard once along the road to Agua Fria, Chapada dos Guimaraes.
Least Grebe Tachybaptus dominicus
1 seen on the newly-restored wetland at Guapi Assu Bird Lodge.
Brown Booby Sula leucogaster
Recorded in good numbers along the coast.
Neotropic Cormorant Phalacrocorax brasilianus
1 seen around the wetland at Guapi Assu and commonly recorded in the Pantanal.
Anhinga Anhinga anhinga
Seen on all the boat trips in the Pantanal and along the Transpantaneira.
Magnificent Frigatebird Fregata magnificens
Encountered in good numbers along the coast.
Whistling Heron Syrigma sibilatrix
Recorded a few times - once at REGUA from the lodge garden, en-route between Itatiaia and the coast, and also in the Pantanal.
Capped Heron Pilherodius pileatus
Seen regularly around the wetland at REGUA, and also in the Pantanal on several occasions.
Cocoi Heron Ardea cocoi
A common bird during our stay in the Pantanal.
Great Egret Ardea alba
Commonly seen in the Pantanal and also recorded around the wetland at Guapi Assu Bird Lodge.
Little Blue Heron Egretta caerulea
Two sightings in the Pantanal and also seen en-route to the coast from the southeast.
Snowy Egret Egretta thula
A few seen at a number of sites around the southeast and the Pantanal.
Cattle Egret Bubulcus ibis
A regularly encountered bird throught the tour.
Striated Heron Butorides striata
Small numbers seen on the boat trips in the Pantanal, and also along the Transpantaneira.
Black-crowned Night-Heron Nycticorax nycticorax
A few recorded on most says on the Pantanal part of the tour.
Zigzag Heron Zebrilus undulatus
Definately one of the biggest surprises of the trip was finding an active Zigzag Heron at around 08.30 in the morning beside the boat dock at Pousada Piuval. The bird seemed completely unbothered by the commotion and the people docking on boats nearby allowing us great views of this normally difficult nocturnal heron.
Boat-billed Heron Cochlearius cochlearius
A pair were fortuitously flushed from their roadside day roost by Sam while we birding the Transpantanal Highway just south of Fazenda Santa Tereza.
Rufescent Tiger-Heron Tigrisoma lineatum
Very common in the Pantanal and also a few seen on the wetland at REGUA.
Least Bittern Ixobrychus exilis
Several were seen by only a few of us on one of the Pousada Piuval boat rides.
Wood Stork Mycteria americana
Many seen daily in the Pantanal.
Maguari Stork Ciconia maguari
Surprisingly only recorded once during our time in the Pantanal, from our first boat ride at Pousada Piuval.
Jabiru Jabiru mycteria
The official logo of the Pantanal. Hundreds were seen in all areas of the Pantanal, with over a hundred birds visible at one time from the boat at Pousada Piuval.
Plumbeous Ibis Theristicus caerulescens
Recorded in small numbers along the Transpantanal Highway and also at Pousada Piuval and at Fazenda Rio Claro.
Buff-necked Ibis Theristicus caudatus
The most frequently seen on the Ibis species in the Pantanal, recorded in small numbers (max. of 6 in one day), at all sites visited there.
Green Ibis Mesembrinibis cayennensis
Dangerously close to being Mr. Tsai's 4,000th bird were it not for the Chotoy Spinetail a short time before, (although there were rumours that a later re-count put the ibis at number 4,000), recorded only along the Transpantaneira a few times.
Bare-faced Ibis Phimosus infuscatus
More frequently seen than Green & Plumbeous Ibises and recorded in small numbers at all sites visited.
Roseate Spoonbill Platalea ajaja
Seen a number of times from the Pousada Piuval boat rides, and once seen along the Transpantanl Highway in a large concentration of hundreds of storks and herons.
Southern Screamer Chauna torquata
Seen from the boat at Pousada Piuval and also along the Transpantaneira.
Muscovy Duck Cairina moschata
1 pair on the wetland at REGUA.
Brazilian Teal Amazonetta brasiliensis
Quite common on the wetland at REGUA.
Black Vulture Coragyps atratus
A very common bird throughout.
Turkey Vulture Cathartes aura
A common bird in the southeast and recorded in the Pantanal as well (although less often there).
Lesser Yellow-headed Vulture Cathartes burrovianus
Regularly seen in the Pantanal where they were more regularly seen than Turkey Vultures.
Swallow-tailed Kite Elanoides forficatus
Only seen at Chapada dos Guimaraes.
Snail Kite Rostrhamus sociabilis
Very common in the Pantanal, by far the most regularly seen raptor there.
Plumbeous Kite Ictinia plumbea
Just one seen at Chapada dos Guimaraes.
Crane Hawk Geranospiza caerulescens
One was seen well by the Transpanatanl Highway, on the journey between Pousada Piuval and Fazenda Rio Claro.
White-necked Hawk Leucopternis lacernulata
A lucky sighting of a low flying bird above us at Fazenda Angelim, near Ubatuba, allowed everyone great views of this seldom seen endemic raptor.
Mantled Hawk Leucopternis polionota
Seen twice at REGUA, including a pair together along the waterfall trail.
Great Black-Hawk Buteogallus urubitinga
Seen a few times in the Pantanal, including on roadside posts along the Highway.
Savanna Hawk Buteogallus meridionalis
Although not as common as Snail Kite, a fairly common and regularly seen raptor in the Pantanal.
Black-collared Hawk Busarellus nigricollis
Recorded daily in the Pantanal where they were frequently encountered perched low by the river's edge.
Roadside Hawk Buteo magnirostris
One of the commonest raptors, encountered regularly throughout.
White-rumped Hawk Buteo leucorrhous
One was seen along the Algulhas Negras road.
White-tailed Hawk Buteo albicaudatus
Seen twice from the bus - once en-route to Itatiaia and once en-route to Chapada dos Guimaraes.
Black-and-white Hawk-Eagle Spizastur melanoleucus
While watching the Giant Antshrike along the Tres Picos trail at Itatiaia we were lucky to have a low-flying bird go straight over us.
Black Hawk-Eagle Spizaetus tyrannus
Only seen once, distantly in a kettle of vultures, at Pereque.
Southern Caracara Caracara plancus
A regularly encountered bird on both parts of the tour.
Yellow-headed Caracara Milvago chimachima
Seen regularly in the southeast and also recorded in the Pantanal a few times.
Laughing Falcon Herpetotheres cachinnans
Seen a few times along the Transpantaneira.
Collared Forest-Falcon Micrastur semitorquatus H
Heard once at both REGUA and Itatiaia.
American Kestrel Falco sparverius
Only recorded while travelling, first to REGUA and then later en-route to the Pantanal.
Aplomado Falcon Falco femoralis
Seen several times around REGUA.
Bat Falcon Falco rufigularis
Seen from the boats at Fazenda Rio Claro and a single bird was seen exceptionally well feasting on dragonflies by the Bridal Veil Falls, Chapada dos Guimaraes.
Chaco Chachalaca Ortalis canicollis
The commonest Cracid in the Panatanal, with dozens seen from the boat rides at Fazenda Rio Claro, feeding in mixed guan flocks in the pink flowering trees.
Dusky-legged Guan Penelope obscura
Initially recorded once at Macae de Cima, although they were extremely abundance at Itatiaia where a dozen birds feeding together on a roadside lawn was not uncommon!
Chestnut-bellied Guan Penelope ochrogaster
This rare cracid was easily seen at both at Pousada Piuval and Fazenda Rio Claro, where the flowering trees along the river at the latter sites attracted an astounding number of Guans. Sometimes Red & Blue-throated Piping-Guans shared the tree with this species and Chaco Chachalacas.
Blue-throated Piping-Guan Pipile cumanensis
Some authors consider these 2 piping-guans (Red-throated & Blue-throated) conspecific along with Trinidad Piping-Guan Pipile pipile, under the collective name Common Piping-Guan Pipile pipile (e.g. Ridgley 2001). Both species overlap in range in Mato Grasso and we certainly a saw a full range of birds whilst at Fazenda Rio Claro, including dewlaps that were lacking red altogether, some that had varying amounts of blue and red together and some that lacked blue altogether suggesting a degree of hybridisation in this area.
Red-throated Piping-Guan Pipile cujubi
Some authors consider these 2 piping-guans (Red-throated & Blue-throated) conspecific along with Trinidad Piping-Guan Pipile pipile, under the collective name Common Piping-Guan Pipile pipile (e.g. Ridgley 2001).
Both species overlap in range in Mato Grasso and we certainly a saw a full range of birds whilst at Fazenda Rio Claro, including dewlaps that were lacking red altogether, some that had varying amounts of blue and red together and some that lacked blue altogether suggesting a degree of hybridisation in this area.
Bare-faced Curassow Crax fasciolata
Recorded several times at both Pousada Piuval and Fazenda Rio Claro, with 11 seen on the journey between the two ranches.
Spot-winged Wood-Quail Odontophorus capueira
We were very fortuitous with this species on the trip, seeing them fairly well on two occasions along the Tres Picos trail at Itatiaia, with all of the group managing to see the birds.
Limpkin Aramus guarauna
A very common bird in the Pantanal.
Gray-breasted Crake Laterallus exilis H
Heard once along the river at Pousada Piuval.
Gray-necked Wood-Rail Aramides cajanea
A few were Seen on most days in the Pantanal.
Slaty-breasted Wood-Rail Aramides saracura
One was seen along the private road at Macae de Cima, by a lucky few.
Ash-throated Crake Porzana albicollis H
Heard only at REGUA.
Blackish Rail Pardirallus nigricans H
Only heard at REGUA.
Purple Gallinule Porphyrio martinica
Recorded once along the Transpantanal Highway.
Common Moorhen Gallinula chloropus
Only recorded around the wetland at Guapi Assu Bird Lodge.
Sungrebe Heliornis fulica
While we were birding along the Transpantanal Highway we were fortunate that another birder stopped to talk to us and informed us that he had just seen a Sungrebe by the side of the road 2 km on from where we were (20 km or so south along the highway from Rio Claro), so we raced there and soon were able to enjoy views of a pair feeding close to the road.
Sunbittern Eurypyga helias
One individual was seen several times feeding in a small pool between the ranch and the boats at Pousada Piuval, while they were also seen from some of the boat rides taken at Fazenda Rio Claro.
Red-legged Seriema Cariama cristata
Only seen on one occasion - a pair between the ranch and the boats at Pousada Piuval.
Wattled Jacana Jacana jacana
Common on the Pantanal part of the tour, and also recorded around the newly-restored wetland at REGUA.
White-backed Stilt Himantopus melanurus
Several seen along the Transpantaneira on a few occasions.
Southern Lapwing Vanellus chilensis
Commonly seen at many sites on the tour.
Collared Plover Charadrius collaris
1 seen along the Transpantanal Highway north of Rio Claro (between there and Pousada Piuval).
Kelp Gull Larus dominicanus
A commonly seen bird along the coast.
Royal Tern Sterna maxima
1 seen along the seafront at Ubatuba during a lunch stop there.
Large-billed Tern Phaetusa simplex
Seen on a few days in the Pantanal (along the Transpantanal Highway and also from the boat rides).
Black Skimmer Rynchops niger
One cruised past us on our last boat ride at Fazenda Rio Claro, passing by in the last glimmers of light for the day.
Rock Pigeon Columba livia
An introduced species.
Scaled Pigeon Patagioenas speciosa
Only recorded around Chapada dos Guimaraes.
Picazuro Pigeon Patagioenas picazuro
A common bird throughout.
Pale-vented Pigeon Patagioenas cayennensis
Seen once in REGUA and also a few times in the Pantanal.
Plumbeous Pigeon Patagioenas plumbea
Seen on each day at Itatiaia, where fairly common.
Eared Dove Zenaida auriculata
Seen on a few days of the tour, in the Pantanal and around Chapdada dos Guimaraes.
Ruddy Ground-Dove Columbina talpacoti
A commonly seen ground-dove in the southeast although more regularly seen in the Pantanal.
Picui Ground-Dove Columbina picui
Seen daily in the Pantanal, where they were fairly common.
Scaled Dove Columbina squammata
Seen on most days in the Pantanal.
Long-tailed Ground-Dove Uropelia campestris
A few recorded on four days in the Pantanal.
White-tipped Dove Leptotila verreauxi
Recorded almost daily in the Pantanal.
Gray-fronted Dove Leptotila rufaxilla
Heard at several sites in the southeast, and 2 birds were seen feeding along the main track at Fazenda Angelim.
Ruddy Quail-Dove Geotrygon montana
A small group of 5 or 6 birds startled us by flying up off the narrow, overgrown track in front of us at Folha Seca, unfortunately not giving many of us a chance to get satisfactory views of them.
Hyacinth Macaw Anodorhynchus hyacinthinus
Seen best during our time at Pousada Piuval when they were seen a number of times (4-5 times), including some great long views of perched birds, and also recorded along the Transpantanal Highway.
Blue-and-yellow Macaw Ara ararauna
2 flew by while birding a road near to Chapada dos Guimaraes.
Red-and-green Macaw Ara chloroptera
Only recorded once, when a low-flying bird passed us when we were birding the 'cerrado road' that leads to Agua Fria in the Chapada dos Guimaraes area.
Blue-winged Macaw Primolius maracana
A pair was seen several times while waiting for the swifts to come into roost at the Bridal Veil Falls, Chapada dos Guimaraes.
Golden-collared Macaw Primolius auricollis
Seen most at Fazenda Rio Claro where 4 or more small flocks passed over on some of the boat trips.
White-eyed Parakeet Aratinga leucophthalmus
Originally only seen in the Pantanal from our final gas station stop before entering the stationless Transpantanal Highway, although large flocks of mobile birds were commonly seen overhead at Chapada dos Guimaraes.
Peach-fronted Parakeet Aratinga aurea
Regularly seen in all areas visited in the Pantanal.
Nanday Parakeet Nandayus nenday
Recorded on 2 occasions around Fazenda Rio Claro (including in the trees near to the pool on the ranch), although the first occasion was certainly the most significant as it was the 4,000th bird for Mr. Tsai's wife.
Sometimes referred to as Black-hooded Parakeet.
Maroon-bellied Parakeet Pyrrhura frontalis
One of the most commonly encountered parakeets in the Atlantic forests around REGUA, Itatiaia, Pereque & Ubatuba.
Monk Parakeet Myiopsitta monachus
Fairly common in the Pantanal, where it was seen on most days.
Blue-winged Parrotlet Forpus xanthopterygius
Recorded once at REGUA, Itatiaia and Pereque.
Plain Parakeet Brotogeris tirica
Seen several times passing overhead at REGUA and also seen several times around Ubatuba where undoubtedly the best views were of birds that regularly came into feed at Jonas's private feedders at Folha Seca.
Yellow-chevroned Parakeet Brotogeris chiriri
Regularly seen daily in all areas of the Pantanal.
Pileated Parrot Pionopsitta pileata
Initially a bird was seen well perched near the start of the Tres Picos trail at Itatiaia, and a few small groups flew over while we were at Pereque.
Sometimes referred to as Red-capped Parrot.
Blue-headed Parrot Pionus menstruus
Only recorded at Chapada dos Guimaraes where 3-4 flocks were seen passing overhead.
Scaly-headed Parrot Pionus maximiliani
Regularly seen at REGUA and also recorded in the Pantanal on few occasions.
Blue-fronted Parrot Amazona aestiva
Sometimes referred to as Turquoise-fronted Parrot.
Orange-winged Parrot Amazona amazonica
A few groups were recorded at all sites in the Pantanal.
Blue-bellied Parrot Triclaria malachitacea H
Heard while looking for the non-existent Russet-winged Spadebill at Corcovado, Ubatuba and despite attempts to lure them in, they remained silent thereafter.
Squirrel Cuckoo Piaya cayana
Seen a number of times on the tour in both the southeast and Pantanal.
Little Cuckoo Piaya minuta
Seen a few times in the Pantanal.
Smooth-billed Ani Crotophaga ani
Guira Cuckoo Guira guira
A fairly common bird in lowland open country where recorded in both the southeast and in the Pantanal.
Striped Cuckoo Tapera naevia
The only one that was seen was a bird from one of the boat trips out of Pousada Piuval.
Variable Screech-Owl Megascops atricapillus
An owl heard calling during the day on the Tres Picos trail, Itatiaia had us seriously wondering what it was and after a long, long period when the whole group searched for the bird in a tree where it was clearly calling from, Mr. Tsai finally put us out of our misery by finding the bird so we could confirm that it was a Variable Screech-owl. A very rarely recorded bird and a lifer for everyone.
Ferruginous Pygmy-Owl Glaucidium brasilianum
First seen at Itatiaia (including from the dining table while having breakfast), and more frequently encountered in the Pantanal, where frequent use of a recording of this bird would bring in many mobbing passerines.
Burrowing Owl Athene cunicularia
Regulary seen around REGUA and also seen at Itatiaia and in the Pantanal.
Nacunda Nighthawk Podager nacunda
Seen very well in the Pantanal, from the boats along the river at Pousada Piuval and also near to the ranch there.
Band-tailed Nighthawk Nyctiprogne leucopyga
Many (25+) were seen hawking insects over the river surface at dusk, both at Pousada Piuval & Fazenda Rio Claro.
Pauraque Nyctidromus albicollis
One seen fron the boat at Fazenda Rio Claro.
Great Dusky Swift Cypseloides senex
A flock of c.30 birds appeared late in the afternoon (around 17.00), high in the sky above the Bridal Veil Falls and one-by-one they dropped suddenly, plunging through the waterfall to roost on the rocks behind.
White-collared Swift Streptoprocne zonaris
Biscutate Swift Streptoprocne biscutata
A mobile flock was seen several times around the Bridal Veil Falls at Chapada dos Guimaraes, although the best views were of several in a low-flying flock of swifts between Rio de Janeiro and REGUA.
Gray-rumped Swift Chaetura cinereiventris
Seen at a few lowland sites in the southeast.
Lesser Swallow-tailed Swift Panyptila cayennensis
A few seen flying over us at Faz, Angelim, Ubatuba.
Saw-billed Hermit Ramphodon naevius
Several were seen coming to the lively feeders by the beginning of the waterfall trail at REGUA, and a few more were seen at the private feeders at Folha Seca near Ubatuba.
Rufous-breasted Hermit Glaucis hirsuta
Seen feeding on the garden flowers in the early morning at Guapi Assu Bird Lodge.
This is sometimes also referred to as Hairy Hermit (e.g. in HBW).
Scale-throated Hermit Phaethornis eurynome
Seen coming to the feeders and along the private road at Macae de Cima.
Planalto Hermit Phaethornis pretrei
2 sightings of single birds at Chapada dos Guimaraes, one along the Pousada Penhasco resort trails.
Buff-bellied Hermit Phaethornis subochraceus
1 was seen on a small forest island that we reached by boat at Pousada Piuval.
Reddish Hermit Phaethornis ruber
Several were seen around Ubatuba, in the Folha Seca area.
Sombre Hummingbird Campylopterus cirrochloris
Only one was seen at the private hummer feeders at Folha Seca, Ubatuba, although the bird regularly visited the feeders there.
Swallow-tailed Hummingbird Eupetomena macrourus
Most commonly seen at REGUA where there are several resident, territorial birds in the Guapi Assu Bird Lodge garden.
Black Jacobin Florisuga fuscus
Only recorded at Itatiaia where several were a permanent fixture at the action-packed feeders of the Hotel do Ype. Surprisingly absent at the Macae de Cima feeders so they must be seasonal there.
White-vented Violet-ear Colibri serrirostris
Only recorded at Chapada dos Guimaraes, along a road where the many flowers in bloom along there attracted a high number of hummers, including Black-thoated Mangos, Frilled Coquettes, Glittering-bellied Emeralds, Amethyst Woodstars and Fork-tailed Woodnymphs.
Black-throated Mango Anthracothorax nigricollis
2-3 seen along the road at Chapada dos Guimaraes.
Plovercrest Stephanoxis lalandi
First a male was seen all too briefly along the Theodoro trail, near Nova Friburgo, although both a male and female were later seen much better along the Algulhas Negras road, Itatiaia.
Frilled Coquette Lophornis magnificus
3 male coquettes were seen along a road at Chapada dos Guimaraes and were originally assumed to be the rarely seen Dot-eared Coquette as this species is the one which most people report from this area. However on closer examination the shorter tufts of the bird, lacking clear dots (having blackish bars more typical of Frilled) in addition to a small area of rufous visible at the base of the tufts helped to identify the birds as Frilled Coquettes. Although either of these coquettes would have been good, these did make up for missing this species earlier as some of the usual feeders for them had been left empty.
Festive Coquette Lophornis chalybeus
The usual Festive Coquettes that regularly came into the private feeders at Folha Seca, Ubatuba, were a definate crowd-pleaser with both photographers and listers alike.
Glittering-bellied Emerald Chlorostilbon aureoventris
Only recorded alongside the paved road at Chapada dos Guimaraes where many hummingbirds were recorded, in an area where many flowers were in bloom at the time.
Fork-tailed Woodnymph Thalurania furcata
Recorded several times in the Pantanal (including Pousada Piuval) and also at Chapada dos Guimaraes.
Violet-capped Woodnymph Thalurania glaucopis
Common in the southeast and recorded at many Atlantic forest sites.
White-chinned Sapphire Hylocharis cyanus
Only recorded a few times - feeding on flowers early in the morning in the Guapi Assu Lodge garden, and also en-route to Ubatuba and at Folha Seca.
White-throated Hummingbird Leucochloris albicollis
One of the commonest hummers visiting the private feeders at Macae de Cima.
Versicolored Emerald Agyrtria versicolor
Only recorded at the busy Hotel do Ype feeders, where they were seen on several occasions.
Glittering-throated Emerald Polyerata fimbriata
One of the most frequently encountered hummingbirds in the rainforests of the southeast and the Pantanal.
Brazilian Ruby Clytolaema rubricauda
Seen at all the feeders on the southeast part of the tour - Folha Seca (Ubatuba), Itatiaia and the private feeders at Macae de Cima.
Horned Sungem Heliactin bilopha
An all too brief view of a male feeding on flowers in the 'ugly desert scrub' along the Agua Fria road, Chapada dos Guimaraes.
Amethyst Woodstar Calliphlox amethystina
A male and a female came into the private feeders at Macae de Cima in the southeast and later another female was seen along the 'hummingbird' road at Chapada dos Guimaraes.
White-tailed Trogon Trogon viridis H
Heard only, at Folha Seca and Pereque.
Black-throated Trogon Trogon rufus
A male was seen at REGUA, and a pair were seen along the Tres Picos trail, Itatiaia.
Surucua Trogon Trogon surrucura
Two races were seen - both the nominate surrucura red-breasted and the aurantius yellow-breasted races were seen. The yellow-breasted race was recorded at Macae de Cima and also along the Algulhas Negras road, while surrucura was seen along the Tres Picos trail, Itatiaia.
Blue-crowned Trogon Trogon curucui
A pair were seen at both Pousada Piuval and Fazenda Rio Claro.
Ringed Kingfisher Ceryle torquata
Commonly seen in the Pantanal, where it is the most common of the kingfishers.
Amazon Kingfisher Chloroceryle amazona
A few recorded on most days in the Pantanal.
Green Kingfisher Chloroceryle americana
A few recorded on most days in the Pantanal.
American Pygmy Kingfisher Chloroceryle aenea
Only one was seen, on one of the boat trips out of Fazenda Rio Claro.
Blue-crowned Motmot Momotus momota
First seen while waiting for our lunch at a roadside stop near to Chapada dos Guimaraes and later seen on the Pousada Penhasco trails there.
Rufous-capped Motmot Baryphthengus ruficapillus
Only heard at REGUA, although seen well several times at Itatiaia, including behind the cabins where we were staying at the Hotel do Ype.
Rufous-tailed Jacamar Galbula ruficauda
Recorded in the garden at Guapi Assu Bird Lodge, and several times in the Pantanal.
White-eared Puffbird Nystalus chacuru
Only seen along the 'cerrado' road which leads to Agua Fria at Chapada dos Guimaraes, with upto three seen together.
Crescent-chested Puffbird Malacoptila striata
First seen at REGUA, when a pair were seen along the track to Casa Anibal and another single bird was seen along the trails at Fazenda Angelim, near to Ubatuba.
Black-fronted Nunbird Monasa nigrifrons
One to two birds were recorded on four days in the Pantanal.
Swallow-wing Chelidoptera tenebrosa
Only recorded once at Pousada Piuval when two birds were seen.
Chestnut-eared Aracari Pteroglossus castanotis
Seen several times around Pousada Piuvala and along the Transpantanal Highway.
Saffron Toucanet Baillonius bailloni
First recorded at the marvellous Hotel do Ype feeders, also recorded along the Tres Picos trail close to there in addition to at Fazenda Angelim and Folha Seca in the Ubatuba area, and also at Pereque.
Spot-billed Toucanet Selenidera maculirostris
Great views of a single male were had at both REGUA and along the Theodoro trail, near to Nova Friburgo.
Channel-billed Toucan Ramphastos vitellinus
Only recorded at Pereque, where several birds of the orange-breasted subspecies ariel were seen.
Red-breasted Toucan Ramphastos dicolorus
A few were seen at Itatiaia, around the Hotel do Ype and along the Tres Picos trail.
Toco Toucan Ramphastos toco
Recorded on 5 or 6 occasions in the Pantanal (at Fazenda Rio Claro, from the boat rides and also along the Transpantaneira several times).
White-barred Piculet Picumnus cirratus
Recorded regularly in the southeast including at REGUA, Itatiaia, Pereque and Ubatuba.
White-wedged Piculet Picumnus albosquamatus
A few seen at all sites in the Pantanal.
White Woodpecker Melanerpes candidus
Recorded around the wetland at REGUA and also a few times in the Pantanal, including a crazy bird clinging to the side of a concrete post!
Yellow-tufted Woodpecker Melanerpes cruentatus
Only seen on the final morning of the tour, near Chapada dos Guimaraes.
Yellow-fronted Woodpecker Melanerpes flavifrons
A really stunnning woodpecker that was well appreciated when it regularly came into the feeders at the Hotel do Ype, Itatiaia. Also recorded at Pereque.
Little Woodpecker Veniliornis passerinus
Singles seen at Pousada Piuval, Fazenda Rio Claro and along the Transpantaneira on several occasions.
White-spotted Woodpecker Veniliornis spilogaster
Several were seen along the Algulhas Negras road.
Yellow-eared Woodpecker Veniliornis maculifrons
1 seen at REGUA, beside the 4 x 4 track.
Yellow-throated Woodpecker Piculus flavigula
2 sightings along the trails at REGUA.
Golden-green Woodpecker Piculus chrysochloros
One was seen in a patch of gallery forest at Pousada Piuval, and several more at Rio Claro and another along the Transpantanal Highway.
Yellow-browed Woodpecker Piculus aurulentus
Sometimes referred to as White-browed Woodpecker.
Green-barred Woodpecker Colaptes melanochloros
First seen along the Theodoro trail, near Nova Friburgo, and then later seen in a forest patch at Pousada Piuval, with another along the Transpantanal Highway.
Campo Flicker Colaptes campestris
Seen a few times around REGUA, although more regularly seen in the Pantanal, including feeding on the lawn of the resort at Pousada Piuval.
Pale-crested Woodpecker Celeus lugubris
A single bird was seen from one of the boat rides out of Rio Claro.
Blond-crested Woodpecker Celeus flavescens
This mindblowing woodpecker was seen really well in the Guapi Asu Bird Lodge garden and was also recorded at Pereque.
Cream-colored Woodpecker Colaptes flavus
A pair was seen by the boat dock at Pousada Piuval, with 2 sightings along the highway between there and Rio Claro, with another at Rio Claro itself.
Lineated Woodpecker Dryocopus lineatus
One was seen from the Hotel do Ype at Itatiaia that completely lacked the white scapular lines that are typical of the species in more northerly parts of its range.
The race seen, erythrops, was formerly considered a distinct species although is now only considered a variable morph with birds of this race in the southern end of their range often lacking these white 'braces' (HBW volume 7).
Robust Woodpecker Campephilus robustus
A pair gave us the runaround in the morning along the Tres Picos at Itatiaia, although were more obliging in the afternoon coming right into the tape and perching in the open so we could get good scope views of both male and female birds.
Crimson-crested Woodpecker Campephilus melanoleucos
A pair were seen in a patch of forest at Pousada Piuval.
Pale-legged Hornero Furnarius leucopus
Recorded regularly around Faz. Rio Claro in the Pantanal.
Tail-banded Hornero Furnarius figulus
This localised bird is surprisingly common at REGUA and recorded regularly there along the roadsides.
This is sometimes referred to as Wing-banded Hornero.
Rufous Hornero Furnarius rufus
Commonly recorded around REGUA and in the Panatanal, and where there oven-shaped nests, that give the furnarid family its name, could be seen regularly.
Araucaria Tit-Spinetail Leptasthenura setaria
A pair were seen very well feeding in a stand of Araucaria, the highly-distinctive trees that they are restricted to. A real charismatic, habitat specialist.
Itatiaia Thistletail/Spinetail Schizoeaca moreirae
After having really poor views of an atypically skulky bird immediately after getting out of the bus, we then struggled for a further three-quarters of an hour before one finally came into the tape and acted more as they should-by parading around on the edges of the bushes so everyone can see them.
Chotoy Spinetail Schoeniophylax phryganophila
A pair seen along the entrance road at Pousada Piuval were celebrated more than usual as they were Mr. Tsai's 4,000th bird. I think he was just relieved it was not a flycatcher, as we had been threatening him with that possibility!
Sooty-fronted Spinetail Synallaxis frontalis
1 was taped in near the start of the Pousada Penhasco trail, Chapada dos Guimaraes.
Cinereous-breasted Spinetail Synallaxis hypospodia
A pair were seen along the Transpantanal Highway, south of Fazenda St. Tereza.
Pale-breasted Spinetail Synallaxis albescens
1 was seen along the 'cerrado road', that leads towards Agua Fria in the Chapada dos Guimaraes area.
Chicli Spinetail Synallaxis spixi
One was seen at Macae de Cima.
Rufous-capped Spinetail Synallaxis ruficapilla
Although they were heard at Macae de Cima where they are often seen there they proved un co-operative there, and we ended up seeing some along the Theodoro trail, near to Nova Friburgo.
White-lored Spinetail Synallaxis albilora
A few seen at both Pousada Piuval and Fazenda Rio Claro.
Gray-bellied Spinetail Synallaxis cinerascens
One was seen near the start of the Algulhas Negras road at Itatiaia.
Pallid Spinetail Cranioleuca pallida
Seen at both Macae de Cima and Algulhas Negras.
Rusty-backed Spinetail Cranioleuca vulpina
Seen regularly alongside the river at Fazenda Rio Claro.
Yellow-chinned Spinetail Certhiaxis cinnamomea
Seen a few times around wetland areas at REGUA and in the Pantanal.
Common Thornbird Phacellodomus rufifrons
Seen near the wetland at REGUA and also recorded once in the Pantanal.
Greater Thornbird Phacellodomus ruber
Seen along the Transpantanal.
Red-eyed Thornbird Phacellodomus erythrophthalmus
3 were seen at Macae de Cima, with others seen at Pereque and Folha Seca (Ubatuba area).
The race found in this part is the orange-eyed nominate, northern race erythropthalmus which is almost certainly going to be split from the southern race ferrugineigula (HBW, Volume 8), on the basis of vocalisations and plumage differences. Both of the races are endemic to Brazil.
Gray-crested Cacholote Pseudoseisura unirufa
A pair seen at Pousada Piuval was the only sighting of this distinctive, charismatic furnarid.
A recent split from Caatinga Cachalote, which were treated formerly as one species, Rufous or Rufous-breasted Cacholote (HBW volume 8).
Streaked Xenops Xenops rutilans
Seen around Macae de Cima and along the Algulhas Negras road.
Sharp-billed Treehunter Heliobletus contaminatus
First recorded at Itatiaia and also recorded along the Algulhas Negras road there.
White-browed Foliage-gleaner Anabacerthia amaurotis
Seen along the Tres Picos trail and along the road near there (Itatiaia).
Buff-browed Foliage-gleaner Syndactyla rufosuperciliata
1 seen in a mixed flock along the private road at Macae de Cima.
Pale-browed Treehunter Cichlocolaptes leucophrus
One was seen typically rummaging around in a canopy bromeliad (this species is a bromeliad specialist), at Folha Seca (Ubatuba).
Buff-fronted Foliage-gleaner Philydor rufus
Recorded in mixed feeding flocks at a number of sites in the southeast.
Ochre-breasted Foliage-gleaner Philydor lichtensteini
One was seen by a very few in the group on the first full day of the tour at REGUA, although we all saw one well later at Fazenda Angelim, near to Ubatuba.
Black-capped Foliage-gleaner Philydor atricapillus
2 singles were seen - one at REGUA and another in a mixed flock along the Tres Picos trail at Itatiaia.
White-collared Foliage-gleaner Anabazenops fuscus
Only recorded at Itatiaia, where one was seen along the road near the Hotel do Ype and 2 were seen on another day in a mixed flock along the Tres Picos trail.
White-eyed Foliage-gleaner Automolus leucophthalmus
Only seen on one occasion around Guapi Assu, although also heard around Ubatuba.
Tawny-throated Leaftosser Sclerurus mexicanus
1 was seen really well at a known territory at Folha Seca. A short walk off the path produced great views of the bird 'bouncing' around a few feet away in front of us.
Sometimes referred to as Tawny-throated Leafscraper.
Rufous-breasted Leaftosser Sclerurus scansor
A good effort was made to see a calling bird along the Theodoro trail, although the bird was uncharacteristically unco-operative and only two people managed to get the merest of glimpses of the bird.
Sometimes referred to as Rufous-breasted Leafscraper.
Sharp-tailed Streamcreeper Lochmias nematura
A really skulking individual was seen by the road near the start of the Tres Picos trail at Itatiaia, although I think most people saw at least some pieces of the bird!
Thrush-like Woodcreeper Dendrocincla turdina
1 was seen in a mixed flock at Fazenda Angelim, near Ubatuba.
Olivaceous Woodcreeper Sittasomus griseicapillus
The most frequently seen woodcreeper in the southeast, recorded at most sites, and also recorded once in the Pantanal.
White-throated Woodcreeper Xiphocolaptes albicollis
Seen along the Theodoro trail and also at Fazenda Angelim, near Ubatuba.
Great Rufous Woodcreeper Xiphocolaptes major
After days of trying to find this bird in the Pantanal, and with all to show for it being a brief call from far across the river, on our last boat ride at Fazenda Rio Claro we joked that as had no targets left to look for we should use the last trip to look for this bird. So we decided to play the tape in desparation at a river edge in the vague area where we had heard one a few days prior, and on playing the tape we were shocked to see a large Woodcreeper fly in, which after a few anxious minutes moved up the tree into full view so that everyone could see this huge, pale-billed all rufous woodcreeper well, allowing some people even to get scope views from the deck of the boat.
Planalto Woodcreeper Dendrocolaptes platyrostris