Southeast Brazil

31 May - 25 June 2005

Leader
Nick Athanas

Participants
Mark Harper
Richard Harper
Shirley Harper
Don Pearson
Doris Pearson

All photos by Nick Athanas

Tropical Birding's debut tour to Brazil was a great success! Thanks to good birding and fun traveling companions, we had a good overview of Brazil's Atlantic Forest as well as a productive side-trip into the cerrado (savannah) of the interior. Our weather at first could not have been better, with day after day pleasant temperatures and clear blue skies filled with puffy white clouds. But the luck had to come to an end and we finally got hit with a cold, rainy, misty, miserable day where we wanted it least, making our search for the Cherry-throated Tanager virtually hopeless. But there are always disappointments in any trip, and the Shrike-like Cotinga, Brazilian Merganser, Crowned Eagle, Cipo Canastero, and other great birds will be long be remembered after the dip is forgotten.

Don and Doris arrived a few days early for a few extra days to bird south of Sao Paulo. The original plan was to spend three nights at Intervales State Park, but 10th anniversary festivities and a visit from the governor threw a wrench in the works. We decided we would still go, but to visit a couple of other sites first in case there were major problems at Intervales. So off we went, successfully navigating through the megalopolis of Sao Paulo and making our way south to the coast, stopping at Ilha Comprida for Red-tailed Parrots and Restinga Tyrannulets before making our way up to Carlos Botelho State Park. This park is very poorly known, but the day of birding we had there was unforgettable. Fantastic views of an extraordinary number of rarities with very little effort! For a few hours they came one after another without cease - Spot-billed Toucanet, Mantled Hawk, Bare-throated Bellbird, Giant Antshrike, Crescent-chested Puffbird, Sao Paulo Tyrannulet, Temminck's Seedeater, antbirds, tanagers...mind-blowing.

We did manage to get into Intervales, and there bird guide was available to take us around (you aren't allowed to go to the best area without a guide). It was inconvenient having to stay an hour away from the park, but still worth it to bird this premier site. We enjoyed it thoroughly with some highlights being White-bearded and Large-tailed Antshrikes, Rusty-breasted Nunlet, and Blue-bellied Parrot.

We headed back to Sao Paulo and flew to Rio, staying in the airport hotel so we could meet the Harpers when they arrived on their very early flight. First stop was some restinga along the coast for the endangered Restinga Antwren before driving to Guapi Assu Bird Lodge, our base for five nights.

The Reserva Ecologica de Guapi Assu, or Regua for short, is a privately owned reserve in the Serra dos Ôrgãos mountain range, protecting 5,000 hectares of Atlantic Forest from lowlands up to 2000m in elevation. It's also an active conservation project as they employ rangers to patrol the forest and are restoring the wetlands and swamp forest that used to exist here. The lodge itself was the most comfortable place we stayed at on the tour with beautiful rooms and very comfortable and airy common area, not to mention great food. Over the five days we had here we birded forest trails in the reserve for Shrike-like Cotinga, White-bibbed Antbird, Pale-browed Treehunter, and plenty more. We had day trips to the highlands of Macae de Cima for the Hooded Berryeaters, Black-and-gold Cotingas and great hummer feeders. A long excursion north was worth it for the endangered Three-toed Jacamar, and afternoon visits to the reserve wetlands were fun for rails, wrens, and others. The reserve president Nicholas Locke went out of his way to make our visit as enjoyable as possible, and his enthusiasm for the project was infectious. One night he gave a talk about the history of Regua and their plans for the future.

Other sites and other birds beckoned, and we went back through Rio and headed west along the beautiful coastal road. The lowland forest at Perequê and Ubatuba is choked with bamboo, giving it a very different feel to the forest at Regua as well as many bamboo specialists. Tufted Antshrike, Slaty Bristefront, Spotted Bamboowren, and Fork-tailed Tody-Tyrant are all a lot easier to see here and we found them all. Jonas's bird feeders at Folha Seca were a nice surprise; we saw eight hummers here including the immaculate Festive Coquette, and the fruit feeders were very active.

Next stop was Itatiaia National Park, the oldest park in Brazil and one of its best known birding destinations. We stayed in the excellent Hotel do Ypê at the end of the road, which was very hospitable and never flinched at the idea of an early breakfast. The birding here was good as we located a lot of the birds we had seen at Intervales that the Harpers still needed. However the best birding here was on the Algulhas Negras road on the other side of the park. From the Gray-bellied Spinetails at the bottom to the Itatiaia Thistletails at the top, we were kept busy for the whole morning.

We had our longest drive on the way to Canastra NP, leaving the Atlantic Forest behind for a while to visit the savannahs and gallery forests of interior of Minas Gerais state. The trip was made longer by road work along the last stretch, but we finally made it through all the mud, trucks, and front-end loaders. It was worth it! The next two days of birding we had were arguably the best of the trip. First we made our way through the grasslands on top of the plateau, finding a surprising number of birds like Cock-tailed and Sharp-tailed Tyrants, White-rumped Tanagers, various finches, and a cooperative Brasilia Tapaculo. We marched along the river near the waterfall looking for merganser, but came up empty. Not to worry, we still had another day. An early start got us to the river below the plateau at dawn, and we started combing the river. About an hour later we were scanning a bend in the river when a duck flew by right in from of us. It was the merganser! We watched it cruise down the river, quacking the whole time (Wouldn't you think a critically endangered duck would say something other than "quack"?). Later on we found one sleeping on a rock for hours, only lifting its head once for a few moments. With "the duck" out of the way, we could relax a little bit and concentrate on other things. Roadsides had seriemas, Black-throated Saltators, finches, Toco Toucans, and more, and there were Helmeted Manakins in the gallery forest as well as some huge bird parties. The biggest surprise of the trip came later when Mark picked a large raptor out of a kettle of Black Vultures. A Crowned Eagle! A lifer for all and one I had removed from the list since I thought our chances of seeing it were so remote. A great way to cap off our Canastra visit.

Another long drive to the Serra de Cipo, where a year ago Iain, Keith, and I had scoured the mountaintops looking for the endemic Cipo Canastero, failing miserably. Would be have better luck this time? Things looked grim after an afternoon and a morning, though we had managed to see just about everything else. So, with time running out, we decided to spread out over the savannah to cover as much ground as possible. Off we went in all different directions, walking through the grass and climbing up rock piles, Hyacinth Visorbearors occasionally zipping by. After about 40 minutes we were spread out over the better part of a kilometer. I had climbed a rocky hill and was scanning around for little brown birds skulking among the stones when I heard a very distant shout. Joy and sadness! Mark had found it, but he was so far away I couldn't even see him. Off I went at a resolute march towards the far off voice, and we eventually all converged on the triumphant Mark, who had seen a pair singing on top of a nearby rocky outcrop. They were no longer in sight. We waited, and I played the tape a few times. Minutes passed when finally a little brown bird with a long tail scurried along the rocks towards us, stopping once to sing, and eventually coming so close that we could easily make out the dark streaking on its throat. What a find! Mark seems to have a knack for finding the guide lifers...

Next stop was Parque Natural Caraça, with its beautiful church and a monastery that has been converted to a hotel. They feed wild Maned Wolves on the steps every night, and those of us who stayed up for it saw one come in and snatch away some chicken bones. Here we filled in a few gaps in the list with the superb Serra Antwren, the skulky White-breasted Tapaculo, and a few others. We were hoping to see Swallow-tailed Cotinga here which I had seen the previous year, but they never turned up.

We were all talking about the beautiful weather we had been enjoying. Could we be lucky enough to get through the trip with no rain whatsoever? Even though it's the dry season, it's also winter, which means that strong winter storms occasionally come up from Argentina and bring days of cold and rainy weather. Just days before our tour started, there had been a particularly nasty one that flooded parts of Sao Paulo, closing the busiest highway in South America and causing a 300km long traffic jam. It was near the end of the trip and we just needed a few more days of luck... but it was not to happen. As we drove east to Espirito Santo it hit us, with rain, thick fog, and wind giving very bad signs for tomorrow's hunt for the Cherry-throated Tanager. Still, we got up early still filled with hope and headed out with Ana and Pedro to Fazenda Pindobas IV. We were bundled up with sweaters, raincoats and gloves and still felt chilled as we marched from spot to spot seeing virtually nothing. A pathetic looking sloth hid under the leaves and watched us go by. What did we look like to him? Some rare Golden-tailed Parrotlets flew by in the fog but we couldn't see them. A very long day with not a lifer for anyone. I suppose you have to expect days like this occasionally, and we all took it in good stride. Unfortunately next day we only had half a day to search in Caetes, and though the weather and birding were far better we simply ran out of time, as it was still a long drive to Linhares.

An airline schedule change meant we only had one day to bird this area, and we needed to make it count. We decided to concentrate our efforts at the Reserva Natural da Vale do Rio Doce, the most reliable place to see Red-billed Curassows. More rain made the going difficult at times, but we hung in there and ended up having the best parrot day of the trip; we saw nine species including rarities like Red-browed Parrot and Blue-throated Parakeet. By lunch we still hadn't seen any curassows and we headed back down the forest road in the van. We had just come over a small hill when there they were - a pair sitting tail-to-tail like a mirror image, then slowly walking back and forth across a few times before disappearing into the forest. If that wasn't enough, we later saw three more including a spectacular full adult male with a fiery red bill. What a way to end the trip!

Itinerary

Extension:
31 May: Arrival in Sao Paulo (Guarulhos). Night near the airport.
1 June: Ilha Comprida. Night Registro.
2 June: Carlos Botelho SP. Night Capao Bonito.
3 June: Intervales SP. Night Capao Bonito.
4 June: Intervales SP. Fly to Rio. Night in airport hotel.

Main tour:
5 June: Rest of group arrives. Praia Seca and Regua wetlands. Night Guapi Assu Bird Lodge.
6 June: Regua waterfall trail. Night Guapi Assu Bird Lodge.
7 June: Sumidouro and Mury. Night Guapi Assu Bird Lodge.
8 June: Regua lost trail and wetland trail. Night Guapi Assu Bird Lodge.
9 June: Macae de Cima. Night Guapi Assu Bird Lodge.
10 June: Serra dos Ôrgãos. Night Angra dos Reis.
11 June: Perequê and Corcovado. Night near Ubatuba.
12 June: Folha Seca and Corcovado. Night near Ubatuba.
13 June: Fazenda Angelim, drive to Itatiaia NP. Night Hotel do Ypê.
14 June: Itatiaia NP. Night Hotel do Ypê.
15 June: Algulhas Negras road. Night Casa Alpina.
16 June: Casa Alpina, then drive to Canastra NP. Night Sao Roque de Minas.
17 June: Upper part of Canastra NP. Night Sao Roque de Minas.
18 June: Lower part of Canastra NP. Night Sao Roque de Minas.
19 June: Drive to Serra de Cipó, with time for some afternoon birding. Night near Cipó.
20 June: Serra de Cipó, then drive to Caraça. Night in the monastery.
21 June: Caraça, then drive to Venda Nova do Imigrante. Night Venda Nova.
22 June: Fazenda Pindobas IV. Night Venda Nova.
23 June: Fazenda Caetes, drive to Linhares. Night Reserva Natural da Vale do Rio Doce.
24 June: Full day Linhares reserve. Night RNVRD.
25 June: Early flight from Vitoria to Rio. End of tour.

BIRD LIST
This list includes all the bird species that were recorded by at least one of us. Taxonomy and nomenclature follow:
Clements, James F. 2000. Birds of the World: A Checklist. Fifth Edition. Vista, CA: Ibis Publishing Co.
I have also included the latest updates to the list. These updates can be found online at: http://www.ibispub.com/updates.html
For many birds I have also included the subspecies. I apologize for omitting some, I simply ran out of time.

Totals:
438 bird species seen
22 heard only

Abbreviations:
H=Heard only.
I=Introduced species.
X=Recorded only on the pretour extension to southern Sao Paulo state.

TINAMOUS (Tinamiformes Tinamidae)
Solitary Tinamou (Tinamus solitarius solitarius) - Tinamous were, as usual, very difficult. We were happy to see this one along Estrada Flamengo at Linhares after it spooked off the branch it was roosting on, showing well for a few moments before vanishing into the bushes.
Little Tinamou (Crypturellus soui albigularis) (H)
Brown Tinamou (Crypturellus obsoletus obsoletus) (H)
Variegated Tinamou (Crypturellus variegatus) (H)
GREBES (Podicipediformes Podicipedidae)
Least Grebe (Tachybaptus dominicus speciosus)
Pied-billed Grebe (Podilymbus podiceps antarcticus) (X)
GANNETS AND BOOBIES (Pelecaniformes Sulidae)
Brown Booby (Sula leucogaster leucogaster)
CORMORANTS (Pelecaniformes Phalacrocoracidae)
Neotropic Cormorant (Phalacrocorax brasilianus olivaceus)
ANHINGAS (Pelecaniformes Anhingidae)
Anhinga (Anhinga anhinga anhinga)
FRIGATEBIRDS (Pelecaniformes Fregatidae)
Magnificent Frigatebird (Fregata magnificens)
HERONS, EGRETS AND BITTERNS (Ciconiiformes Ardeidae)
Whistling Heron (Syrigma sibilatrix sibilatrix) - One near Sumidouro and another at Ubatuba.
Capped Heron (Pilherodius pileatus) - Lots of them in the Regua wetlands.
Cocoi Heron (Ardea cocoi) (X)
Great Egret (Ardea alba egretta)
Little Blue Heron (Egretta caerulea) (X)
Snowy Egret (Egretta thula)
Cattle Egret (Bubulcus ibis ibis)
Striated Heron (Butorides striata)
Black-crowned Night-Heron (Nycticorax nycticorax hoactli)
Rufescent Tiger-Heron (Tigrisoma lineatum)
IBIS AND SPOONBILLS (Ciconiiformes Threskiornithidae)
Buff-necked Ibis (Theristicus caudatus hyperorius) - Flyovers at Intervales and then later at Canastra.
DUCKS, GEESE AND SWANS (Anseriformes Anatidae)
Muscovy Duck (Cairina moschata) - Canastra.
Brazilian Teal (Amazonetta brasiliensis ipecutiri)
Brazilian Merganser (Mergus octosetaceus) - It took the better part of two days, but we finally found it along the Rio Sao Francisco at the base of the Canastra plateau. First we had a close flyby about 12km from Vargem Bonita, then had one sitting on a rock for hours just downhill from the park entrance.
NEW WORLD VULTURES (Falconiformes Cathartidae)
Black Vulture (Coragyps atratus)
Turkey Vulture (Cathartes aura)
Lesser Yellow-headed Vulture (Cathartes burrovianus)
King Vulture (Sarcoramphus papa) - A beauty soaring close overhead in the upper part of Canastra NP.
HAWKS, EAGLES AND KITES (Falconiformes Accipitridae)
Gray-headed Kite (Leptodon cayanensis) - Mark spotted one along the side of the highway somewhere in Espirito Santo.
Snail Kite (Rostrhamus sociabilis) - South of Linhares in a roadside marsh.
Rufous-thighed Hawk (Accipiter erythronemius) - A pair soaring high over the hotel at Cipó.
Mantled Hawk (Leucopternis polionotus) (X) - Don and Doris found this one soaring over Carlos Botelho after I went back to get the car; fortunately it was still there when I came back as it was a marvelous view of this rare and beautiful raptor.
Savanna Hawk (Buteogallus meridionalis)
Harris's Hawk (Parabuteo unicinctus)
Black-chested Buzzard-Eagle (Geranoaetus melanoleucus)
Crowned Eagle (Harpyhaliaetus coronatus) - Yes!! Mark managed to pick this one out of a kettle of Black Vultures in lower Canastra, scoring one of the rarest and most unexpected birds of the tour. We watched it soaring for many minutes; the white at the base of the primaries was very obvious, though the tail pattern was not terribly distinct. I think it was a subadult bird, but as it was my first I can't claim to be an expert...
Roadside Hawk (Buteo magnirostris)
Short-tailed Hawk (Buteo brachyurus) (X)
White-tailed Hawk (Buteo albicaudatus)
Black Hawk-Eagle (Spizaetus tyrannus) - Soaring birds seen at Intervales and Folha Seca. The second one was an especially good view.
FALCONS AND CARACARAS (Falconiformes Falconidae)
Southern Caracara (Caracara plancus)
Yellow-headed Caracara (Milvago chimachima)
Laughing Falcon (Herpetotheres cachinnans)
Barred Forest-Falcon (Micrastur ruficollis) - Seen at Carlos Botelho, only heard elsewhere.
American Kestrel (Falco sparverius)
Aplomado Falcon (Falco femoralis) - Seen well near Intervales and at Regua, glimpsed a few other places.
Bat Falcon (Falco rufigularis)
GUANS, CHACHALACAS, CURASSOWS (Galliformes Cracidae)
Rusty-margined Guan (Penelope superciliaris) - Seen best at Regua as we had one perched in the open for a few minutes. We glimpsed a few at Linhares too.
Dusky-legged Guan (Penelope obscura) - In SE Brazil this species replaces the previous one at higher elevation. We saw them in several place, including Caraça, where they were feeding out of a garbage can!
Black-fronted Piping-Guan (Pipile jacutinga) (X) - A stooping hawk scared this one out of a tree at Carlos Botelho, and it shot across the road in a fraction of a second. Unfortunately we did not find another one.
Red-billed Curassow (Crax blumenbachii) - The bird that Linhares is best known for. We saw five of them during our day there, including a stunning adult male with a fiery bill.
NEW WORLD QUAIL (Galliformes Odontophoridae)
Spot-winged Wood-Quail (Odontophorus capueira) (H)
RAILS, GALLINULES, AND COOTS (Gruiformes Rallidae)
Rufous-sided Crake (Laterallus melanophaius) - I was the only one to see this one at the wetlands at Regua.
Gray-necked Wood-Rail (Aramides cajanea)
Slaty-breasted Wood-Rail (Aramides saracura) - Seen along roadsides in a few places, including Carlos Botelho and Macae de Cima.
Ash-throated Crake (Porzana albicollis) - It only provided us with a couple of quick looks at the Regua wetland, but I think everyone saw it well enough to tick.
Blackish Rail (Pardirallus nigricans) - We glimpsed it in a few places before finally finding a pair feeding completely in the open at the duck pond at Caraça.
Common Moorhen (Gallinula chloropus)
SERIEMAS (Gruiformes Cariamidae)
Red-legged Seriema (Cariama cristata) - A stunning bird we saw well in a few places, especially in the grazed pastures around Canastra.
JACANAS (Charadriiformes Jacanidae)
Wattled Jacana (Jacana jacana)
PLOVERS AND LAPWINGS (Charadriiformes Charadriidae)
Southern Lapwing (Vanellus chilensis)
Collared Plover (Charadrius collaris)
SANDPIPERS (Charadriiformes Scolopacidae)
Greater Yellowlegs (Tringa melanoleuca)
GULLS (Charadriiformes Laridae)
Kelp Gull (Larus dominicanus)
TERNS (Charadriiformes Sternidae)
Royal Tern (Sterna maxima)
PIGEONS AND DOVES (Columbiformes Columbidae)
Rock Pigeon (Columba livia) (I)
Picazuro Pigeon (Patagioenas picazuro)
Pale-vented Pigeon (Patagioenas cayennensis)
Plumbeous Pigeon (Patagioenas plumbea)
Eared Dove (Zenaida auriculata)
Plain-breasted Ground-Dove (Columbina minuta) - Seen in the restinga at Praia Seca but nowhere else.
Ruddy Ground-Dove (Columbina talpacoti)
Scaled Dove (Columbina squammata)
Gray-fronted Dove (Leptotila rufaxilla)
Ruddy Quail-Dove (Geotrygon montana) (H)
PARROTS (Psittaciformes Psittacidae)
Blue-winged Macaw (Primolius maracana) - The first of nine parrot species we saw during our day at Linhares, they were also the only ones to give us a poor view as a flock flew quickly over the road.
White-eyed Parakeet (Aratinga leucophthalmus)
Peach-fronted Parakeet (Aratinga aurea) - Plentiful around Canastra and Cipó, but we also found a few at Linhares.
Blue-throated Parakeet (Pyrrhura cruentata) - What a bird! A small flock responded to tape in the tower clearing at Linhares, eventually landing for scope views.
Maroon-bellied Parakeet (Pyrrhura frontalis) - One of the most common parakeets in the Atlantic Forest. Seen well several times.
White-eared Parakeet (Pyrrhura leucotis) - An unforgettable "clump" of them in a tree at Linhares, all preening busily after the rain.
Blue-winged Parrotlet (Forpus xanthopterygius)
Plain Parakeet (Brotogeris tirica) - Plain but cute, seen at many sites.
Yellow-chevroned Parakeet (Brotogeris chiriri) - Relatively few, and only seen perched once while we were at a gas station!
Golden-tailed Parrotlet (Touit surda) (H) - Would have seen this rarity if weren't for the $%&@ fog at Pindobas.
Pileated Parrot (Pionopsitta pileata) - We had flybys in Intervales and Macae de Cima before finally getting one perched for ages along the Tres Picos trail at Itatiaia.
Blue-headed Parrot (Pionus menstruus) - Linhares.
Scaly-headed Parrot (Pionus maximiliani) - Numerous good views.
Red-browed Parrot (Amazona rhodocorytha) - Distant but good scope views of this endangered parrot along the main highway north of Linhares.
Red-tailed Parrot (Amazona brasiliensis) (X) - We were getting desperate on Isla Comprida when finally two pairs flew in and perched on opposite sides of a clearing, squawking back and forth to each other. One flared its tail out so we could see the red and yellow. A beautiful Amazon.
Orange-winged Parrot (Amazona amazonica) - Linhares.
Mealy Parrot (Amazona farinosa) - Linhares.
Blue-bellied Parrot (Triclaria malachitacea) (X) - Always a tough one. A pair responded to tape at Intervales and flew by fairly closely in good light. That's often the best you can hope for. We did not record them elsewhere on the tour.
CUCKOOS (Cuculiformes Cuculidae)
Squirrel Cuckoo (Piaya cayana)
Smooth-billed Ani (Crotophaga ani)
Guira Cuckoo (Guira guira)
Striped Cuckoo (Tapera naevia) (H)
BARN-OWLS (Strigiformes Tytonidae)
Barn Owl (Tyto alba) - One roosting in a barn near the resevoir at Regua.
OWLS (Strigiformes Strigidae)
Tropical Screech-Owl (Megascops choliba decassatus)
Rusty-barred Owl (Strix hylophila) (H) - Heard behind the Casa Alpina, once very close, but it got away.
Spectacled Owl (Pulsatrix perspicillata pulsatrix) - The silent owl behind Casa Alpina appeared to be this species due to its totally unbarred underparts, though I would have expected Tawny-browed here. We also tracked down another one that was giving a very unusual call at Linhares.
Tawny-browed Owl (Pulsatrix koeniswaldiana) - A pair started calling while we were sipping caipirinhas at Guapi Assu, sending us all running for bins and spotlights. Terrific views! We heard another one at Caraça while waiting for the wolf.
Ferruginous Pygmy-Owl (Glaucidium brasilianum)
Burrowing Owl (Athene cunicularia)
NIGHTJARS (Caprimulgiformes Caprimulgidae)
Pauraque (Nyctidromus albicollis)
Rufous Nightjar (Caprimulgus rufus) - A nightjar spotlit on the ground near the wetland at Regua turned out to be this after some discussion.
SWIFTS (Apodiformes Apodidae)
Great Dusky Swift (Cypseloides senex) - There were hundreds of swifts soaring near the Casca D'Anta waterfall at Canastra. Most were so high we could barely see them, but one flock came close enough to identify as this species.
White-collared Swift (Streptoprocne zonaris)
Biscutate Swift (Streptoprocne biscutata) - A few mixed in with a flock of White-collareds flying very low over a recently plowed field at Regua. Possible sightings elsewhere.
Gray-rumped Swift (Chaetura cinereiventris)
HUMMINGBIRDS (Trochiliformes Trochilidae)
Saw-billed Hermit (Ramphodon naevius) - One of my favorite hermits, we saw them at several lowland forest sites. They were also visiting feeders at Regua and Folha Seca.
Rufous-breasted Hermit (Glaucis hirsuta) - Feeding on Heliconias in the garden at Regua.
Scale-throated Hermit (Phaethornis eurynome) - Seen at most feeders in the highlands.
Planalto Hermit (Phaethornis pretrei) - The only one we saw well was at Sumidouro.
Dusky-throated Hermit (Phaethornis squalidus) (X) - The commonest hummer at Carlos Botelho and Intervales, but we never saw them after that.
Minute Hermit (Phaethornis idaliae) - Several seen at Linhares on the last day.
Reddish Hermit (Phaethornis ruber)
Sombre Hummingbird (Campylopterus cirrochloris) - Rather scarce on this tour, we saw it best at Perequê.
Swallow-tailed Hummingbird (Eupetomena macrourus)
Black Jacobin (Florisuga fuscus) - A striking hummer we saw at feeders at Macae de Cima and Itatiaia.
White-vented Violet-ear (Colibri serrirostris) - Lots in the interior cerrado habitats.
Plovercrest (Stephanoxis lalandi lalandi) - Good views of males at several locations, including Macae de Cima, Serra dos Ôrgãos, and Itatiaia.
Plovercrest (Stephanoxis lalandi loddigesii) - We saw a female of what is presumably the southern race at Intervales.
Festive Coquette (Lophornis chalybeus chalybeus) - Several, including a few fabulous males, visiting Jonas's feeders at Folha Seca.
Glittering-bellied Emerald (Chlorostilbon aureoventris)
Fork-tailed Woodnymph (Thalurania furcata) - Only at Canastra.
Violet-capped Woodnymph (Thalurania glaucopis) - Perhaps the most common Atlantic Forest hummer here.
White-chinned Sapphire (Hylocharis cyanus) - A nice male in a flowering bush in the garden of Guapi Assu Bird Lodge.
White-throated Hummingbird (Leucochloris albicollis) - Many sightings in the highlands.
Versicolored Emerald (Agyrtria versicolor versicolor)
Sapphire-spangled Emerald (Polyerata lactea)
Glittering-throated Emerald (Polyerata fimbriata)
Brazilian Ruby (Clytolaema rubricauda) - Common but pretty, often trying to dominate hummer feeders.
Hyacinth Visorbearer (Augastes scutatus) - Endemic to a small area of interior SE Brazil. We saw lots of them at Cipó.
Stripe-breasted Starthroat (Heliomaster squamosus) - Several males seen in and near Canastra. It's endemic to Brazil despite its rather large range.
Amethyst Woodstar (Calliphlox amethystina) - Males seen at the feeders at Macae de Cima and in Cipó.
TROGONS AND QUETZALS (Trogoniformes Trogonidae)
White-tailed Trogon (Trogon viridis viridis)
Black-throated Trogon (Trogon rufus chrysochloros)
Surucua Trogon (Trogon surrucura) - Many seen, the western ones with red bellies and the eastern ones with yellow bellies.
KINGFISHERS (Coraciiformes Alcedinidae)
Ringed Kingfisher (Ceryle torquatus)
Amazon Kingfisher (Chloroceryle amazona)
Green Kingfisher (Chloroceryle americana)
MOTMOTS (Coraciiformes Momotidae)
Rufous-capped Motmot (Baryphthengus ruficapillus) - Great views at Carlos Botelho, followed by not-so-great views in several other places.
JACAMARS (Piciformes Galbulidae)
Three-toed Jacamar (Jacamaralcyon tridactyla) - Easily seen at Sumidouro, which made the long drive worth it!
Rufous-tailed Jacamar (Galbula ruficauda rufoviridis)
PUFFBIRDS (Piciformes Bucconidae)
Buff-bellied Puffbird (Notharchus swainsoni) - Nice views near Folha Seca. Recently split from White-necked Puffbird.
White-eared Puffbird (Nystalus chacuru) - A very distant pair at Sumidouro turned out to be the only ones we saw.
Crescent-chested Puffbird (Malacoptila striata) - Good luck with this one as we saw them well in three different places: Carlos Botelho, Regua, and Folha Seca.
Rusty-breasted Nunlet (Nonnula rubecula rubecula) (X) - One of my favorites (especially since it was a lifer). We watched and photographed a pair at very close range in Intervales.
TOUCANS (Piciformes Ramphastidae)
Black-necked Aracari (Pteroglossus aracari) - Lots at Linhares.
Saffron Toucanet (Baillonius bailloni) - A truly unique toucan, and a characteristic bird of the Atlantic Forest. The ones visiting the feeders at the Hotel do Ypê make great camera targets.
Spot-billed Toucanet (Selenidera maculirostris) - Mind-blowing views at Carlos Botelho. Unfortunately we didn't see it again
Channel-billed Toucan (Ramphastos vitellinus ariel) - A distinctive race, not unlike the next species apart from bill coloration. Our best views were in a fruiting tree at Linhares.
Red-breasted Toucan (Ramphastos dicolorus) - The pair perched over the headquarters at Intervales was nice, but another pair at Itatiaia put on a heck of a show one evening, first preening each other for ten minutes then singing loudly (if you can call it that).
Toco Toucan (Ramphastos toco) - Quite common once we got into the interior savannah. Those glow-in-the-dark bills are something else...
WOODPECKERS (Piciformes Picidae)
White-barred Piculet (Picumnus cirratus)
Ochre-collared Piculet (Picumnus temminckii) (X) - A southern replacement of the previous sp. Seen well in Carlos Botelho.
White Woodpecker (Melanerpes candidus) - Several sightings in open areas.
Yellow-fronted Woodpecker (Melanerpes flavifrons) - An outrageously-colored woodpecker. We saw them a few times, including eating fruit at the feeders of the Hotel do Ypê.
White-spotted Woodpecker (Veniliornis spilogaster)
Yellow-eared Woodpecker (Veniliornis maculifrons) - The one we saw at Regua turned out to be the only one. Fortunately we all got on it before it took off.
Yellow-throated Woodpecker (Piculus flavigula erythropis) - The race in eastern Brazil actually has a red throat. Seen at Regua and Linhares.
Golden-green Woodpecker (Piculus chrysochloros polyzonus) (H)
Yellow-browed Woodpecker (Piculus aurulentus) - Seen well in several highland forest areas.
Green-barred Woodpecker (Colaptes melanochloros melanochloros) (X)
Campo Flicker (Colaptes campestris campestris)
Blond-crested Woodpecker (Celeus flavescens) - A stunning woodpecker, first seen right at the lodge at Guapi Assu, then again in Perequê.
Lineated Woodpecker (Dryocopus lineatus erythrops)
Robust Woodpecker (Campephilus robustus) (H) - We heard them double-rapping in a number of places, but always too distant to find.
OVENBIRDS (Passeriformes Furnariidae)
Tail-banded Hornero (Furnarius figulus) - A species from NE Brazil that seems to be invading southward. We saw a few around the Regua wetlands.
Rufous Hornero (Furnarius rufus)
Araucaria Tit-Spinetail (Leptasthenura setaria) - Mark found one near some houses before we even got to the traditional site on the Algulhas Negras road. Also heard around Casa Alpina.
Sooty-fronted Spinetail (Synallaxis frontalis) - Seen in scrub in upper Canastra.
Pale-breasted Spinetail (Synallaxis albescens) - Ditto.
Chicli Spinetail (Synallaxis spixi) - Sometimes called Spix's Spinetail.
Rufous-capped Spinetail (Synallaxis ruficapilla) - Many sightings in both lowland and highland forest.
Gray-bellied Spinetail (Synallaxis cinerascens) - We tracked down a singing pair at the start of the Algulhas Negras road.
Pallid Spinetail (Cranioleuca pallida) - A few sightings in mixed flocks in the highlands.
Yellow-chinned Spinetail (Certhiaxis cinnamomea) - Several around the Regua wetlands.
Itatiaia Thistletail (Oreophylax moreirae) - Amazingly close views high up the Algulhas Negras road of a bird that responded quietly to the tape and circled around us.
Cipó Canastero (Asthenes luizae) - Finally! And I was beginning to doubt it existed.
Common Thornbird (Phacellodomus rufifrons rufifrons) - Often called Rufous-fronted Thornbird.
Red-eyed Thornbird (Phacellodomus erythrophthalmus erythrophthalmus) - The nominate race gave us brilliant views at Perequê, though we heard them elsewhere.
Red-eyed Thornbird (Phacellodomus erythrophthalmus ferrugineigula) (X) - The southern race is a likely split. Luis helped us find a pair at Intervales that took a great deal of patience to see well.
Plain Xenops (Xenops minutus) - Seen only by me at Perequê. Much less common than the next one in the Atlantic Forest.
Streaked Xenops (Xenops rutilans)
Sharp-billed Treehunter (Heliobletus contaminatus contaminatus) - The best view was in a mixed flock at Macae de Cima.
White-browed Foliage-gleaner (Anabacerthia amaurotis)
Buff-browed Foliage-gleaner (Syndactyla rufosuperciliata)
Pale-browed Treehunter (Cichlocolaptes leucophrus leucophrus) - This was the race we saw at Regua, Serra dos Ôrgãos, and Itatiaia.
Pale-browed Treehunter (Cichlocolaptes leucophrus holti) - And this was the one at Folha Seca. Some ornithologists advocate splitting them.
Buff-fronted Foliage-gleaner (Philydor rufus rufus)
Ochre-breasted Foliage-gleaner (Philydor lichtensteini) - Similar to the previous species and often together with it. We saw it at Carlos Botelho and Itatiaia.
Russet-mantled Foliage-gleaner (Philydor dimidiatus) - Mark and I were the only ones to get on this one in a mixed flock near the Casca D'Anta waterfall in Canastra.
Black-capped Foliage-gleaner (Philydor atricapillus) - One of the most distinctive foliage-gleaners, we saw it well on several occasions.
White-collared Foliage-gleaner (Anabazenops fuscus) - Seen several times, but the one at Caetes was certainly the best.
White-eyed Foliage-gleaner (Automolus leucophthalmus sulphurascens) - Good views at Carlos Botelho and Regua, though heard elsewhere.
Tawny-throated Leaftosser (Sclerurus mexicanus bahiae) - This race is endemic to SE Brazil. Fantastic close views at Folha Seca, then we saw another one nearby tossing leaves while we were looking for the Rufous-capped Antthrush.
Rufous-breasted Leaftosser (Sclerurus scansor scansor) - We put in a huge effort to see this one at Macae de Cima only to see it far better the following day at Serra dos Ôrgãos.
Sharp-tailed Streamcreeper (Lochmias nematura nematura) - First seen distantly at Serra dos Ôrgãos, but later we found one in the lower part of Itatiaia that sat on a wall and later went up into a tree! What was it doing?
WOODCREEPERS (Passeriformes Dendrocolaptidae)
Thrush-like Woodcreeper (Dendrocincla turdina) - One at Regua, then another at Itatiaia.
Olivaceous Woodcreeper (Sittasomus griseicapillus sylviellus) - Another probably future split. Common in wooded areas everywhere.
White-throated Woodcreeper (Xiphocolaptes albicollis) - The big bulbous bill separates this guy from the next (more common) sp. We only saw them at Intervales and Macae de Cima.
Planalto Woodcreeper (Dendrocolaptes platyrostris) - Numerous sightings in both lowlands and highlands.
Lesser Woodcreeper (Xiphorhynchus fuscus) - Recorded in most forested areas.
Buff-throated Woodcreeper (Xiphorhynchus guttatus guttatus) - Dismal views at Linhares. This is not a species you would normally expect to skulk!
Narrow-billed Woodcreeper (Lepidocolaptes angustirostris) - Just one in Canastra responding to a pygmy-owl tape.
Scaled Woodcreeper (Lepidocolaptes squamatus) - Got it in the end at Caraça in a mixed flock on the Tanque Grande trail.
Scalloped Woodcreeper (Lepidocolaptes falcinellus) (X) - Recently split from the previous sp. We had one nice sighting at Intervales.
Black-billed Scythebill (Campylorhamphus falcularius) - Three great sightings of this bamboo-lover; First at Intervales, then Itatiaia, and finally in Caetes.
TYPICAL ANTBIRDS (Passeriformes Thamnophilidae)
Spot-backed Antshrike (Hypoedaleus guttatus) - A pair seen on that amazing day at Carlos Botelho. The next one proved to be more difficult, but persistance paid off with an 11th-hour sighting at Angelim.
Giant Antshrike (Batara cinerea cinerea) (X) - Stunning in-the-open views of a pair at Carlos Botelho. We never even heard them again after that.
Tufted Antshrike (Mackenziaena severa) - A few fly-bys of birds at Carlos Botelho and Intervales. We finally got a great view of a male at Perequê.
Large-tailed Antshrike (Mackenziaena leachii) - Ridiculously close views of a bold male at Intervales. They teased us after that; we heard them in three more places, but they never would come out.
Great Antshrike (Taraba major) (H)
White-bearded Antshrike (Biatas nigropectus) - A male and female nicely seen at Intervales, then found again later in the trip at Itatiaia.
Chestnut-backed Antshrike (Thamnophilus palliatus vestitus)
Sooretama Slaty-Antshrike (Thamnophilus ambiguus) - We had a tough time seeing one at Regua, but finally found a pair out in the open at Linhares.
Variable Antshrike (Thamnophilus caerulescens caerulescens)
Rufous-winged Antshrike (Thamnophilus torquatus) - A handsome antshrike of the cerrado. We saw them at Canastra and Cipó.
Spot-breasted Antvireo (Dysithamnus stictothorax) - A few sightings of this one, mainly in the lowlands.
Plain Antvireo (Dysithamnus mentalis mentalis)
Rufous-backed Antvireo (Dysithamnus xanthopterus) - The pair at Macae de Cima was the only one - it happened to be Mark's 3000th bird!
Star-throated Antwren (Myrmotherula gularis) - A pretty little endemic, common anywhere there is good forest cover.
White-flanked Antwren (Myrmotherula axillaris luctuosa) - This endemic race will surely be split eventually (of course we all keep saying that!). We saw them at Regua and Linhares.
Unicolored Antwren (Myrmotherula unicolor) - Best seen at Regua, but we found them in a few other lowland sites.
Black-capped Antwren (Herpsilochmus atricapillus) - A single bird at Caraça.
Rufous-winged Antwren (Herpsilochmus rufimarginatus rufimarginatus)
Serra Antwren (Formicivora serrana) - Not singing at all at Caraça, but we found one by tracking down an unusual call note. Another one of my favorites, and we all saw it well in the end.
Restinga Antwren (Formicivora littoralis) - An endangered species with a minute range along the coast east of Rio. We detoured south to Praia Seca to see it before heading on to Guapi Assu Bird Lodge.
Black-hooded Antwren (Formicivora erythronotos) - Another beauty with a super-small range. Perequê is the easiest spot for it, and we saw a pair easily there.
Ferruginous Antbird (Drymophila ferruginea) - SE Brazil hit the jackpot when it came to the Drymophilas. These are some of the coolest antbirds in the world, and we saw all six well. Ferruginous likes bamboo at low to middle elevations.
Bertoni's Antbird (Drymophila rubricollis) - Forest with bamboo at middle to upper elevations. Seen at Intervales and Macae de Cima.
Rufous-tailed Antbird (Drymophila genei) - Ranges at higher elevations than any of the others, we only saw it on the Algulhas Negras road.
Ochre-rumped Antbird (Drymophila ochropyga) - Often found together with Bertoni's. We also saw one at the unusually low elevation of 400m at Carlos Botelho.
Dusky-tailed Antbird (Drymophila malura) - Prefers scrubby habitats at middle elevations. Seen at Intervales and Macae de Cima.
Scaled Antbird (Drymophila squamata stictocorypha) - Lowlands only, and not associated with bamboo. We saw them at Regua, Perequê, and Ubatuba.
Streak-capped Antwren (Terenura maculata) - Common in the mixed canopy flocks, but it took some time to get a decent view.
White-shouldered Fire-eye (Pyriglena leucoptera)
White-bibbed Antbird (Myrmeciza loricata) - We bushwhacked off the trail to find one at Regua, only to see another right next to the trail a few hours later! Seen again later at Caraça and Caetes.
Squamate Antbird (Myrmeciza squamosa) - Another off-trail experience got us this one in Perequê.
ANTTHRUSHES AND ANTPITTAS (Passeriformes Formicariidae)
Rufous-capped Antthrush (Formicarius colma ruficeps) - Another off-trail jaunt at Folha Seca netted us this one.
Short-tailed Antthrush (Chamaeza campanisona campanisona) (XH)
Brazilian Antthrush (Chamaeza ruficauda) - This was the cooperative one on the trip. We went of the road at Macae de Cima to see one pair well, only to see them even better the next day at Serra dos Ôrgãos.
Such's Antthrush (Chamaeza meruloides) - And this was the tough one. A few of us saw it briefly at Itatiaia on the Tres Picos trail, then at Caraça we spent an hour on one and never even got a glimpse!
Variegated Antpitta (Grallaria varia) (H) - Sooooo close. We climbed down a ravine at Regua to chase a singing bird, and it somehow slipped away.
GNATEATERS (Passeriformes Conopophagidae)
Rufous Gnateater (Conopophaga lineata vulgaris) - One at Carlos Botelho flew ten feet up and sat on a branch in full view! Another seen at Itatiaia, and we heard it elsewhere. The southern birds have a different song, but they are still taxomically considered the same.
Black-cheeked Gnateater (Conopophaga melanops melanops) - Always a favorite. Seen superbly at Regua, and heard in several other lowland forest areas.
TAPACULOS (Passeriformes Rhinocryptidae)
Collared Crescent-chest (Melanopareia torquata rufescens) (H) - A loooong way off at Canastra.
Spotted Bamboowren (Psilorhamphus guttatus) - It took some work, but we all saw it well in the end at Angelim, sneaking through the bamboo. He often sounds a lot farther away than he really is.
Slaty Bristlefront (Merulaxis ater) - Smashing views at Folhas Seca as it moved along a stream, hopped over, then circled around us, singing all the time.
Mouse-colored Tapaculo (Scytalopus speluncae) - Easy for once! A decent view at Carlos Botelho, followed by a too-close-to-focus encounter at Serra dos Ôrgãos.
Brasilia Tapaculo (Scytalopus novacapitalis) - It actually came right out and sat in exactly the dead bush we were hoping for and sang away. This was in upper Canastra.
White-breasted Tapaculo (Scytalopus indigoticus) - He held out 'til the bitter end, but we finally nailed it at Caraça crossing back and forth across an open area in the understory.
COTINGAS (Passeriformes Cotingidae)
Sharpbill (Oxyruncus cristatus cristatus) - Best seen at Carlos Botelho; heard and seen briefly a few other times throughout the tour.
Shrike-like Cotinga (Laniisoma elegans elegans) - A specialty of Regua, they are easier to see there than anywhere else I know. Great close up views of one bird along the Waterfall Trail.
Black-and-gold Cotinga (Tijuca atra) - The haunting song of the male is a characteristic sound of the highest elevations in the Atlantic Forest. We saw them well at both Macae de Cima and the Algulhas Negras road.
Hooded Berryeater (Carpornis cucullatus) - The one at Macae de Cima was the best, as it sat for ages no more than about 20 feet away, totally undisturbed! Also seen at Intervales, Serra dos Ôrgãos, and Pindobas.
Buff-throated Purpletuft (Iodopleura pipra pipra) - A distant view at Perequê, followed by much better looks a few days later at Angelim.
Screaming Piha (Lipaugus vociferans) (H)
Cinnamon-vented Piha (Lipaugus lanioides) - We saw a few well in mixed flocks at Intervales, but it wasn't until over two weeks later than we found another at Caraça.
Red-ruffed Fruitcrow (Pyroderus scutatus scutatus) - A few brief views at Carlos Botelho, Ubatuba, and Caraça.
Bare-throated Bellbird (Procnias nudicollis) - After seeing them without even trying on Ilha Comprida and in Carlos Botelho, they tormented us for the rest of the tour. We heard them seemingly everywhere, in both lowlands and highlands, but failed to ever see another. Sorry Mark!
MANAKINS (Passeriformes Pipridae)
White-bearded Manakin (Manacus manacus gutturosus)
Blue Manakin (Chiroxiphia caudata) - You can't help but look at them over and over again, even if they are one of the most common birds.
Red-headed Manakin (Pipra rubrocapilla) - First a few females, then finally a smashing full adult male at Linhares.
White-crowned Manakin (Dixiphia pipra) - One male briefly, then a few females. Also at Linhares.
Helmeted Manakin (Antilophia galeata) - One brilliant male in the gallery forest of lower Canastra. What a bird!
Pin-tailed Manakin (Ilicura militaris) - Good luck with this one! Before this trip I had somehow never seen a male, but we saw males in most sites on this tour, in both lowlands and highlands.
Serra Tyrant-Manakin (Neopelma chrysolophum) - Great views of a pair at Macae de Cima, and then another one behind the Casa Alpina. None of the birds ever showed their yellow crown patches. A recent split from Wied's Tyrant-Manakin (N. aurifrons).
Black-capped Piprites (Piprites pileatus) - One of my favorite endemics. We saw a pair well on the Algulhas Negras road.
Wing-barred Piprites (Piprites chloris chloris) (X) - The view we had at Intervales was unforgettable. A bird came down to eye-level in a bush in response to the tape and sat there sputtering at us!
Thrush-like Schiffornis (Schiffornis turdinus turdinus) - Jose Illanes had reported this bird at Regua a month before and I was a bit doubtful as it had never been seen there before. Guess I should have believed him as we had a great view of one perched low down by the side of the trail. Also heard in Linhares.
Greenish Schiffornis (Schiffornis virescens) - Seen well in Carlos Botelho and Macae de Cima and heard in most other forest sites.
TYRANT FLYCATCHERS (Passeriformes Tyrannidae)
White-lored Tyrannulet (Ornithion inerme) - One responded to tape at Linhares high up in the canopy.
Southern Beardless-Tyrannulet (Camptostoma obsoletum obsoletum)
Yellow Tyrannulet (Capsiempis flaveola flaveola)
Gray Elaenia (Myiopagis caniceps caniceps)
Yellow-bellied Elaenia (Elaenia flavogaster flavogaster)
Olivaceous Elaenia (Elaenia mesoleuca) - One on the Algulhas Negras road.
Plain-crested Elaenia (Elaenia cristata cristata) - Cipó was the only place we saw them.
Highland Elaenia (Elaenia obscura sordida) - Not only in the highlands - we also saw them at sea level on Ilha Comprida.
Sooty Tyrannulet (Serpophaga nigricans)
White-crested Tyrannulet (Serpophaga subcristata straminea) - Just one on the Algulhas Negras road.
Ochre-bellied Flycatcher (Mionectes oleagineus oleagineus)
Gray-hooded Flycatcher (Mionectes rufiventris)
Sepia-capped Flycatcher (Leptopogon amaurocephalus amaurocephalus)
Southern Bristle-Tyrant (Pogonotriccus eximius) - This can be a tough one to find, and even tougher to see well enough to ID. Fortunately we found one in Macae de Cima that perched for as long as we wanted, allowing close scope studies.
Sao Paulo Tyrannulet (Phylloscartes paulistus) (X) - Close views of one at Carlos Botelho that responded very well to the tape. A scarce bird indeed.
Oustalet's Tyrannulet (Phylloscartes oustaleti) - Several were in that crazy flock at Caetes. We could only watch them briefly as we were busy searching for Cherry-throated Tanagers at the time.
Restinga Tyrannulet (Phylloscartes kronei) (X) - One of our targets on Ilha Comprida, seen easily in the scrub.
Serra do Mar Tyrannulet (Phylloscartes difficilis) - Easily seen on the Algulhas Negras road, but some of the group also saw it at Macae de Cima.
Mottle-cheeked Tyrannulet (Phylloscartes ventralis ventralis)
Bay-ringed Tyrannulet (Phylloscartes sylviolus) (X) - We saw them easily at Carlos Botelho and Intervales, but never ran across another one.
Planalto Tyrannulet (Phyllomyias fasciatus brevirostris) - Found in a huge variety of habitats and elevations, from lowlands all the way up to near treeline on the Algulhas Negras road.
Rough-legged Tyrannulet (Phyllomyias burmeisteri burmeisteri) - Seen at a surpisingly low elevation at Regua, then later on at Serra dos Ôrgãos.
Greenish Tyrannulet (Phyllomyias virescens) - Many sightings in montane forest of this Atlantic Forest endemic.
Gray-capped Tyrannulet (Phyllomyias griseocapilla) - Same with this one.
Sharp-tailed Tyrant (Culicivora caudacuta) - A new bird for me and one of my favorites of the trip. Cute, colorful, and fun to watch as they moved through the tall grass of upper Canastra.
Gray-backed Tachuri (Polystictus superciliaris) - Endemic to a small area of interior Brazil. We saw a pair at Canastra and a single at Cipó.
Eared Pygmy-Tyrant (Myiornis auricularis auricularis) - Another cute and brightly-patterned flycatcher. Most of the ones we saw were this race.
Eared Pygmy-Tyrant (Myiornis auricularis cinereicollis) - This race occurs in Espirito Santo and northwards.
Ochre-faced Tody-Flycatcher (Poecilotriccus plumbeiceps plumbeiceps)
Drab-breasted Bamboo-Tyrant (Hemitriccus diops) - Seen at Macae de Cima, Itatiaia, and Caraça.
Brown-breasted Bamboo-Tyrant (Hemitriccus obsoletus obsoletus) (H) - This is one species that seems to vocalize very little during the winter. We heard the northern race along the Algulhas Negras road, but it never responded.
Brown-breasted Bamboo-Tyrant (Hemitriccus obsoletus zimmeri) (X) - Luis and I got on one briefly at Intervales.
Eye-ringed Tody-Tyrant (Hemitriccus orbitatus) - We saw them well a few times at Regua, and found another one later at Folha Seca.
Hangnest Tody-Tyrant (Hemitriccus nidipendulus) - Surprisingly, the one we saw at Praia Seca after the Restinga Antwren was the only one we got on the trip.
Pearly-vented Tody-Tyrant (Hemitriccus margaritaceiventer margaritaceiventer) - One at Cipó while we were looking at the antshrikes.
Fork-tailed Tody-Tyrant (Hemitriccus furcatus) - The one we saw at Perequê was banded. We heard them a couple other places including Itatiaia, where they are being found quite regularly lately.
Yellow-lored Tody-Flycatcher (Todirostrum poliocephalum) - Many sightings of this smart endemic, mostly in the lowlands but occasionally higher.
Common Tody-Flycatcher (Todirostrum cinereum coloreum) - Not so common! We saw it only twice.
Southern Antpipit (Corythopis delalandi) - We had to give up in the morning on the way up the waterfall trail at Regua, but coming back down we tried again and finally had it walking by closely, snapping its bill and singing occasionally.
Large-headed Flatbill (Ramphotrigon megacephala megacephala) - Itatiaia was the only place we saw it.
Olivaceous Flatbill (Rhynchocyclus olivaceus olivaceus) - Good views at Linhares. This race is endemic to eastern Brazil.
Yellow-olive Flycatcher (Tolmomyias sulphurescens sulphurescens)
Gray-crowned Flycatcher (Tolmomyias poliocephalus sclateri) - Linhares.
Yellow-breasted Flycatcher (Tolmomyias flaviventris flaviventris) - Linhares. Some authorities split this species; in that case the nominate race takes the name Ochre-lored Flycatcher.
White-throated Spadebill (Platyrinchus mystaceus cancromus) - Itatiaia.
Russet-winged Spadebill (Platyrinchus leucoryphus) (H) - My stakeout at Ubatuba let us down, it only called back a couple of times and never came in.
Bran-colored Flycatcher (Myiophobus fasciatus flammiceps)
Yellow-rumped Flycatcher (Myiobius mastacalis) - A recent split from Sulphur-rumped Flycatcher, we saw it in lowland forest at Regua and around Ubatuba.
Black-tailed Flycatcher (Myiobius atricaudus ridgwayi) - Seems to replace the previous in the highlands; we saw it in Itatiaia and Caetes.
Cliff Flycatcher (Hirundinea ferruginea bellicosa) - This race is often split off as Swallow Flycatcher. It is not associated with cliffs.
Fuscous Flycatcher (Cnemotriccus fuscatus bimaculatus) (H)
Euler's Flycatcher (Lathrotriccus euleri euleri) (H)
Tropical Pewee (Contopus cinereus cinereus)
Gray Monjita (Xolmis cinerea cinerea) - Great views on the way to Capao Bonito, but only a brief flight view later on in Canastra.
White-rumped Monjita (Xolmis velata) - A very common bird of open habitats in the interior.
Blue-billed Black-Tyrant (Knipolegus cyanirostris) - The best view was at Pindobas.
Velvety Black-Tyrant (Knipolegus nigerrimus) - An endemic species we saw mainly in and around Itatiaia.
Crested Black-Tyrant (Knipolegus lophotes) - Plenty in the open habitats of the interior.
Masked Water-Tyrant (Fluvicola nengeta nengeta)
White-headed Marsh-Tyrant (Arundinicola leucocephala)
Cock-tailed Tyrant (Alectrurus tricolor) - Everyone wants to see this bird just because of it's unique name. We saw a male and two females in the tall grasslands of upper Canastra.
Streamer-tailed Tyrant (Gubernetes yetapa) - Big, bold, and beautiful. Seen en-route to Canastra and also near the park.
Yellow-browed Tyrant (Satrapa icterophrys)
Long-tailed Tyrant (Colonia colonus)
Cattle Tyrant (Machetornis rixosus)
Shear-tailed Gray Tyrant (Muscipipra vetula) - A noble-looking bird. One was hawking insects at Macae de Cima.
Gray-hooded Attila (Attila rufus rufus) - Super-close views at Intervales, then found again later on the Theodoro trail near Mury.
Rufous Casiornis (Casiornis rufa) - A nice surprise to see a pair respond to a pygmy-owl tape in lower Canastra. They aren't very common there.
Sirystes (Sirystes sibilator sibilator) - A vocal flock leader we saw on a few occasions. There were sadly very few in evidence durng our visits to Pindobas and Caetes.
Grayish Mourner (Rhytipterna simplex simplex) - A single at Folha Seca, and a couple more on the last day at Linhares.
Dusky-capped Flycatcher (Myiarchus tuberculifer tuberculifer)
Short-crested Flycatcher (Myiarchus ferox australis)
Brown-crested Flycatcher (Myiarchus tyrannulus bahiae)
Great Kiskadee (Pitangus sulphuratus maximiliani)
Boat-billed Flycatcher (Megarynchus pitangua pitangua)
Rusty-margined Flycatcher (Myiozetetes cayanensis erythropterus) (H)
Social Flycatcher (Myiozetetes similis pallidiventris)
Three-striped Flycatcher (Conopias trivirgata) (X) - We saw them on several occasions in mixed flocks at Carlos Botelho and Intervales
Tropical Kingbird (Tyrannus melancholicus melancholicus)
Chestnut-crowned Becard (Pachyramphus castaneus castaneus)
Green-backed Becard (Pachyramphus viridis viridis) - Seen best at Folha Seca.
White-winged Becard (Pachyramphus polychopterus spixii)
Black-capped Becard (Pachyramphus marginatus marginatus) - An endemic race to eastern Brazil. Seen well at Regua, then much later at Linhares.
Crested Becard (Pachyramphus validus validus) - Nearly dipped! We finally got a couple of females on the last day of the tour at Linhares.
Black-tailed Tityra (Tityra cayana braziliensis) - A single bird at Regua. Why are tityras so scarce in this area?
SWALLOWS (Passeriformes Hirundinidae)
Brown-chested Martin (Progne tapera)
Gray-breasted Martin (Progne chalybea)
White-rumped Swallow (Tachycineta leucorrhoa) - Finally seen on approach to Canastra.
Blue-and-white Swallow (Notiochelidon cyanoleuca)
White-thighed Swallow (Neochelidon tibialis) - At Regua and Angelim
Tawny-headed Swallow (Alopochelidon fucata) - Terrific close-range views of a perched bird in upper Canastra. Later we saw a big flock in the same place.
Southern Rough-winged Swallow (Stelgidopteryx ruficollis)
WAGTAILS AND PIPITS (Passeriformes Motacillidae)
Yellowish Pipit (Anthus lutescens)
WRENS (Passeriformes Troglodytidae)
Black-capped Donacobius (Donacobius atricapilla)
Thrush-like Wren (Campylorhynchus turdinus) (H)
Moustached Wren (Thryothorus genibarbis) (H)
Long-billed Wren (Thryothorus longirostris) - The only endemic wren in the Atlantic Rainforest. We saw it well at Regua.
House Wren (Troglodytes aedon)
MOCKINGBIRDS AND THRASHERS (Passeriformes Mimidae)
Chalk-browed Mockingbird (Mimus saturninus)
THRUSHES (Passeriformes Turdidae)
Yellow-legged Thrush (Platycichla flavipes) - Never terribly common, but seen at scattered sites throughout the tour.
Rufous-bellied Thrush (Turdus rufiventris)
Pale-breasted Thrush (Turdus leucomelas) - Strangely absent for the first part of the tour, we finally saw loads during the last ten days.
Creamy-bellied Thrush (Turdus amaurochalinus)
Cocoa Thrush (Turdus fumigatus) - Many seen on the forest roads at Linhares. We could have overlooked a few earlier on as they were totally unvocal during the trip.
White-necked Thrush (Turdus albicollis albicollis)
GNATCATCHERS AND GNATWRENS (Passeriformes Polioptilidae)
Long-billed Gnatwren (Ramphocaenus melanurus)
CROWS AND JAYS (Passeriformes Corvidae)
Curl-crested Jay (Cyanocorax cristatellus) - Jays were tough for us on this tour! This one is the only one we found, but we enjoyed seeing them at close range at dusk on our second day at Canastra.
OLD WORLD SPARROWS (Passeriformes Passeridae)
House Sparrow (Passer domesticus) (I)
WAXBILLS AND ALLIES (Passeriformes Estrildidae)
Common Waxbill (Estrilda astrild) (I)
VIREOS AND ALLIES (Passeriformes Vireonidae)
Red-eyed Vireo (Vireo olivaceus chivi) - The race often split off as Chivi Vireo.
Rufous-crowned Greenlet (Hylophilus poicilotis) - We saw them well at Macae de Cima and Itatiaia.
Gray-eyed Greenlet (Hylophilus amaurocephalus) - A fairly recent split from the previous sp, replacing it to the north. It seems to favor scrubbier habitat, and we saw them well in Canastra.
Lemon-chested Greenlet (Hylophilus thoracicus thoracicus) - An endemic race to SE Brazil. Seen in the restinga at Praia Seca and heard in scrubby habitat elsewhere.
Rufous-browed Peppershrike (Cyclarhis gujanensis)
FINCHES, SISKINS, CROSSBILLS (Passeriformes Fringillidae)
Hooded Siskin (Carduelis magellanica)
WOOD WARBLERS (Passeriformes Parulidae)
Tropical Parula (Parula pitiayumi)
Masked Yellowthroat (Geothlypis aequinoctialis velata) - Another one likely to be split up into several species in the near-future due to vocal and plumage differences. Seen best at Perequê.
Golden-crowned Warbler (Basileuterus culicivorus)
White-bellied Warbler (Basileuterus hypoleucus) - Replaces the previous in interior Brazil. We saw several in gallery forest at Canastra.
White-rimmed Warbler (Basileuterus leucoblepharus) - A very cool bird with an even cooler song. We saw them well at Macae de Cima and heard them in many other highland sites.
Neotropical River Warbler (Basileuterus rivularis) - All over the road in the morning at Perequê! We also saw them at Carlos Botelho.
BANANAQUIT (Passeriformes Coerebidae)
Bananaquit (Coereba flaveola)
TANAGERS AND ALLIES (Passeriformes Thraupidae)
Chestnut-vented Conebill (Conirostrum speciosum)
Brown Tanager (Orchesticus abeillei) - A most unusual tanager, easily confused with a foliage-gleaner! Seen at Intervales, Itatiaia, and Caetes.
Cinnamon Tanager (Schistochlamys ruficapillus) - Not too many on this trip, seen best at Canastra.
White-rumped Tanager (Cypsnagra hirundinacea) - A beautiful pair, dueting from a small bush in upper Canastra.
Magpie Tanager (Cissopis leveriana)
Chestnut-headed Tanager (Pyrrhocoma ruficeps) - After seeing them in Intervales, we didn't find them again until the gallery forest near the waterfall in lower Canastra, where I was surprised to find them.
Orange-headed Tanager (Thlypopsis sordida)
Rufous-headed Tanager (Hemithraupis ruficapilla) - A beautiful endemic seen well in many of the forest sites.
Yellow-backed Tanager (Hemithraupis flavicollis)
Olive-green Tanager (Orthogonys chloricterus) - Many seen at Intervales and Carlos Botelho, but rather few afterwards (Regua).
Flame-crested Tanager (Tachyphonus cristatus)
Ruby-crowned Tanager (Tachyphonus coronatus) - Quite common, we even saw the ruby crown a few times.
Black-goggled Tanager (Trichothraupis melanops)
Red-crowned Ant-Tanager (Habia rubica) - A common understory flock leader. Especially common in the lowlands, they occur is smaller numbers up well over 1000m elevation.
Hepatic Tanager (Piranga flava flava) - A pair at Canastra. Some ornithologists advocate splitting this species into two or even three species.
Brazilian Tanager (Ramphocelus bresilius) - Common in lowlands, but the males are truly outrageous birds and we never tired of seeing them.
Sayaca Tanager (Thraupis sayaca) - It replaces the Blue-gray in southern South America.
Azure-shouldered Tanager (Thraupis cyanoptera) - A forest-based version of the common Sayaca. The dark face is the easiest way to separate it from Sayaca; Sayacas always have a pale face giving them a very "blank" look.
Golden-chevroned Tanager (Thraupis ornata) - Quite common in forested highland areas everywhere.
Palm Tanager (Thraupis palmarum)
Diademed Tanager (Stephanophorus diadematus) - We saw these beauties at Intervales and along the Algulhas Negras road.
Fawn-breasted Tanager (Pipraeidea melanonota)
Purple-throated Euphonia (Euphonia chlorotica) - A widespread species, but for some reason seem not terribly conspicuous. We tracked down a pair at Praia Seca, then only heard them in a few other places.
Violaceous Euphonia (Euphonia violacea) - Common; seen in most places.
Golden-rumped Euphonia (Euphonia cyanocephala) (H) - Cipó, but we were busy with the canastero at the time.
Orange-bellied Euphonia (Euphonia xanthogaster) - Here seems to be found only in lowland forest. Seen at Regua and Linhares.
Chestnut-bellied Euphonia (Euphonia pectoralis)
Blue-naped Chlorophonia (Chlorophonia cyanea) - Lots in a fruiting tree at Regua; seen later in a few other sites like Pindobas.
Turquoise Tanager (Tangara mexicana brasiliensis) - Common in canopy flocks at Linhares. This distinctive white-bellied race is a likely future split.
Green-headed Tanager (Tangara seledon) - It's hard to decide which of the endemic Tangaras is the prettiest since they are all so stunning. I think this one is my favorite. It's common in the lowlands, less common the higher you go.
Red-necked Tanager (Tangara cyanocephala) - Seems to be most common in the lower foothills.
Brassy-breasted Tanager (Tangara desmaresti) - Lots of these in montane forest in many places.
Gilt-edged Tanager (Tangara cyanoventris) - Seems to be the most local of the Tangaras. We saw them first in Itatiaia, then found plenty more in at Canastra and Caraça.
Burnished-buff Tanager (Tangara cayana) - Not endemic, but still a striking bird.
Blue Dacnis (Dacnis cayana)
Green Honeycreeper (Chlorophanes spiza) - Very scarce in SE Brazil compared to other parts of its range. We saw them only at Jonas's fruit feeders at Folha Seca.
Swallow-Tanager (Tersina viridis)
BUNTINGS, SEEDEATERS, ALLIES (Passeriformes Emberizidae)
Black-masked Finch (Coryphaspiza melanotis) - A beauty that Mark spotted from the van as we drove through the grasslands of upper Canastra. We only saw the one.
Pileated Finch (Coryphospingus pileatus)
Bay-chested Warbling-Finch (Poospiza thoracica) - A SE Brazil endemic that we first saw at Macae de Cima, then later on the Algulhas Negras road.
Red-rumped Warbling-Finch (Poospiza lateralis) - More widespread than the previous, yet we only saw them in and near the Algulhas Negras road.
Cinereous Warbling-Finch (Poospiza cinerea) - A scarce little endemic of the cerrado, we missed them at Canastra only to find several at Cipó.
Blue-black Grassquit (Volatinia jacarina)
Buffy-fronted Seedeater (Sporophila frontalis) (H) - Its loud, piercing song travels great distances, but there was no way we could get down off the road in Intervales to see this bamboo specialist.
Temminck's Seedeater (Sporophila falcirostris) (X) - One responded well to tape in Carlos Botelho, eventuall coming in for a good view. Another bamboo specialist. When the bamboo is seeding, Temmick's and Buffy-fronted are much easier to find.
Plumbeous Seedeater (Sporophila plumbea) - A surprise in a mixed flock near the park entrance at Canastra.
Yellow-bellied Seedeater (Sporophila nigricollis)
Double-collared Seedeater (Sporophila caerulescens)
Sooty Grassquit (Tiaris fuliginosa) - One adult with two begging young at the jacamar spot in Sumidouro.
Saffron Finch (Sicalis flaveola)
Stripe-tailed Yellow-Finch (Sicalis citrina) - Only one for certain in lower Canastra, the white in its tail is really not obvious except in flight.
Wedge-tailed Grass-Finch (Emberizoides herbicola) - Lots in the grasslands of Canastra and Cipó.
Pale-throated Serra-Finch (Embernagra longicauda) - Another cerrado species with a very restricted range. We saw one singing bird in Cipó. Sometimes called Buff-throated Pampa-Finch.
Great Pampa-Finch (Embernagra platensis) - Only one seen in the grasslands of upper Canastra.
Grassland Sparrow (Ammodramus humeralis)
Rufous-collared Sparrow (Zonotrichia capensis)
SALTATORS, CARDINALS, AND ALLIES (Passeriformes Cardinalidae)
Buff-throated Saltator (Saltator maximus)
Black-throated Grosbeak (Saltator fuliginosus) (X) - One seen in Carlos Botelho turned out to be the only one.
Green-winged Saltator (Saltator similis) - Frequently kept as cage birds by Brazilians thanks to its pleasant song, and we were told that some people will pay hundreds of dollars for exceptional individuals! Fortunately they are still common in most areas.
Thick-billed Saltator (Saltator maxillosus) - Quite similar to the previous, usually replacing it at higher elevations in the Atlantic Forest. We only saw them along the Algulhas Negras road.
Black-throated Saltator (Saltator atricollis) - A beauty that we saw many times at Canastra and Cipó.
Yellow-green Grosbeak (Caryothraustes canadensis) - A big noisy flock at Regua were the only ones we saw.
Yellow-billed Blue Finch (Porphyrospiza caerulescens) - We pished one up in the upper part of Canastra, a juv. male with a dark bill.
BLACKBIRDS, ORIOLES, GRACKLES, ETC. (Passeriformes Icteridae)
Chestnut-capped Blackbird (Chrysomus ruficapillus) - Lots in the Regua wetlands, a few seen elsewhere.
White-browed Blackbird (Sturnella superciliaris)
Red-rumped Cacique (Cacicus haemorrhous)
Golden-winged Cacique (Cacicus chrysopterus) - Easily seen at Intervales, but we struggled to see it again, eventually finding it very high up along the Algulhas Negras road.
Crested Oropendola (Psarocolius decumanus)
Yellow-rumped Marshbird (Pseudoleistes guirahuro) - First near Intervales, then two weeks later at Canastra and Cipó.
Chopi Blackbird (Gnorimopsar chopi) - Its beautiful whistled song is its most distinguishing feature. We saw some near Sumidouro, then plenty more around Canastra.

Mammals
Maned Three-toed Sloth (Bradypus torquatus)
Giant Anteater (Myrmecophaga tridactyla)
Masked Titi-Monkey (Callicebus personatus)
Brown Capuchin Monkey (Cebus apella)
South American Coati (Nasua nasua)
Crab-eating Fox (Cerdocyon thous)
Maned Wolf (Chrysocyon brachyurus)
Capybara (Hydrochaeris hydrochaeris)
White-lipped Peccary (Tayassu pecari)
Guianan Squirrel (Sciurus aestuans)
Red-rumped Agouti (Dasyprocta agouti)
Brazilian Rabbit (Sylvilagus brasiliensis)