Introduction

Ornithologically, Cameroon remains little known despite being the most accessible and richest country in West Africa for birds. Lying at the junction between West and Central Africa, and forming a key part of the Lower Guinea Endemic Bird Area (EBA), Cameroon and its highland chain supports over 900 bird species, amongst them seven endemics. Cameroon is highly diverse with typical lowland tropical rainforests in the south and west to the Pro-Sahelian savanna in the north, and from rolling plains to volcanic beaches and mangrove swamps.

Two vital Endemic Bird Areas form part of Cameroon, (1) Cameroon and Gabon lowlands (EBA 085) and the Cameroon Mountains (EBA 086). This tour was exceptionally successful, and because Mt Cameroon had become unaccessible we had decided to concentrate on the magical north and the accessible sites of the south. The result was an exceptional group total of 568 species in 20 days. However, it was not just the great diversity of birds that was seen that was impressive, but the rarity of many of them. The far north yielded Cricket Warbler, Scissor-tailed Kite and the cosmic grounded views of the mythical Quail Plover. At Benoue highlights included Adamawa Turtle Dove and the scarcely seen Yellow Penduline Tit. Ngoundaba yielded Emin’s Shrike, Brown-chested Lapwing, Schlegel’s Francolin as well as the gamut of usual specials. The south was magnificent and yielded 24 of the currently available 27 Cameroon Mountains EBA birds. The three Mt Cameroon birds being unavailable due to a bridge being washed away. The Critically Endangered, mythical and legendary, Mt Kupe’ Bush Shrike was seen well. Other highlights included 6 parties of White-throated Mountain Babbler, glowing Bannerman’s Turaco, superb Yellow-breasted Boubou and scarce Green-breasted Bush Shrike, the minute White-tailed Warbler and elegant Fernando Po Oliveback.

The lowland forests of Korup are primal and magical places. Our undoubted trip highlight came in the form of a group of seven Grey-necked Picathartes, hissing and leaping about their theatre-like cavern. A narrow second place goes to the family of Bouvier’s (Vermiculated) Fishing Owl that we located in Korup. Other highlights here included Black Guineafowl, Forest Francolin and Rachel’s Malimbe. There is no doubt that Cameroon offers the most exceptional birding in West Africa, and definitely is one of the top three destinations in the whole continent.

Click here to see the programme for Tropical Birding’s 2004 expedition to the Bight of Biafra.

Trip report

Day 1: Johannesburg- Douala.

It was rather encouraging to see the tail of our Cameroon Airlines Boeing parked outside the international departures hall. But really all sank in when the ground hostess verified it was operational and scheduled for departure on time. We boarded our flight and left for Douala without delay and by 16h00 we broke the clouds on our descent and feasted our eyes upon an endless carpet of lush and spongy rainforest, untapped, unlogged, unburnt, criss-crossed by thin streams not roads, very inviting and extremely sexy.

The landing was faultless and before we knew it we were being par-boiled by the local 98% humidity and 32° C. The hotel bus driver was there to collect us. En route to the hotel we saw several flocks of Bronze Manikins, Northern Grey-headed Sparrow, 2 Yellow Wagtail (ssp thunbergi and feldegg), Yellow-billed Kites and hundreds of Pied Crows. Two Grey Parrots flew in the distance. A walk around the hotel in the afternoon produced Ethiopian Swallow and the heavily marked maxima form of Lesser Striped Swallow. An active breeding colony of Village Weavers allowed us to study at close range the handsome chestnut collaring of the the cucullatus form. On the telephone wires African Thrush, Woodland Kingfisher and Grey-crowned Negrofinch perched whilst Little, European and Palm Swifts whistled down the alleys. Overgrown courtyards were full of Red-eyed and Blue-spotted Wood Doves, Tawny-flanked Prinia, Little Bee-eater and the white-vented form of Common Bulbul (P.b. inornatus). From the penthouse bar we watched scores of Flying Foxes leaving their roosts at unison cruising over Douala’s skyline. Supper was scrumptious, beer was cold and a shower before bed…utter bliss. At midnight we collected Shannon Charlton from the airport, quickly convinced her to join us on a pre tour birding escapade in the early morning and set her up for a well-earned rest after a long flight from Cape Town via Nairobi.

Day 2: Sanaga River.

At 05h30, the punctual Euloge had his taxi idling at the hotels door ready to go. We headed south, but not without a quick stop at a general dealer to buy chocolate spread which was used for smearing the taxi license out and allow us to travel beyond the CBD limits in what now become Euloge’s personal sedan. Dawn views of a Bat Hawk flying over the car were soon replaced by the ubiquitous Yellow-billed Kites of downtown Douala. Barely 30 kms south of Douala we came across some reasonable patches of swamp forest and several flocks of Pied and Piping Hornbills crossing the road. African Grey Parrots were pinging and meowing from almost every tree top. Sabine’s and Mottled Spinetails flitted above us. A Lizard Buzzard happened to be perched next to where we stopped. A mixed flock of African Green Pigeons and Splendid Glossy Starlings feasted on a fruiting treetop nearby and a Broad-billed Roller hawked moths from the end of a snag in the distance.

A few kilometers farther south we stopped next to a forest pond to observe a settling flock of White-thighed Hornbills, more Pied Hornbills called from the forest. The pond below yielded a Dabchick and an African Jacana. Thorough scanning with the scope produced an immaculate pair of Hartlaub’s Ducks in the morning light, which we relished on for a good 30 minutes. During this time a Black-casqued Wattled Hornbill landed at almost eye level less than 50 meters away from us and proceeded to preen. Four hornbill species in one morning!!! A Gymnogene cruised by whilst below a Village Weaver chased a Klaas’s Cuckoo, all the while an Emerald Cuckoo’s ‘pretty georgie’ call filled the air. Some trees next to the road produced Green Sunbird and our only flock of the stunning Red-vented Malimbe.

A termite emergence near a sparsely wooded channel crossing the road had gathered a swarm of swifts and swallows feasting away, a few Bates’s Swifts and curious Sabine’s Spinetails stooped past. A colony of Viellot’s Weavers commuted frantically from the emergence to their hanging condominiums. A lone Blue-billed Malimbe approached the commotion perching out in the open but did not build up the courage to get closer to us. We reached the Sanaga at 08h30 and had breakfast at a roadside stall before veering west and down-stream along the northern bank of the river. Driving past several settlements we recorded Olive-bellied Sunbird, Pygmy Kingfisher and our first flocks of the stunning White-throated Bee-eater, hundreds of mud gathering Preuss’ Cliff Swallows worked a road puddle. Our first approach to the river’s edge was halted by a small bird party that yielded a Buff-throated Apalis, Green Crombec, Black-necked Weaver, Little Greenbul, Orange-cheeked Waxbill, Green and Olive-bellied Sunbird. From the thick bush beyond the road edge we heard the tempting graty calls of a covey of Scaly Francolins and the hoots of Great Blue Turaco. Sallying over the road and perched on emerging sticks along the river’s edge we marveled at the iridescence elegance of a pair of White-throated Blue Swallows.

On scanning the first sand bank we bagged effortlessly our main quarry of the day, Grey Pratincole, of which we saw plenty more throughout the day, with and without chicks, stretching their stunning wings, chasing each other along sand banks at neck-breaking speeds and equally damaging yet colourful twists, breaks and turns. Their dullish grey appearance when roosting certainly does not do justice to their pied magnificence in flight. We noted too that they were highly territorial viciously chasing Common Sandpipers, Greenshanks, Marsh Sandpipers, White-fronted Plovers and any other waders landing on their sandy realms.

Also present along the river were large flocks of African Skimmers, many of which delighted us with their water-skimming prowess. Vegetated sandy banks hosted White-headed Lapwings and Senegal Thicknee, Pied and Giant Kingfishers. A lonely Wooly-necked Stork, Goliath Heron, Great White, Little and Cattle Egrets were also recorded. A soaked Osprey drip-dried itself on a perch above one of the river channels.

During our constant search for paths to the rivers edge we came across a host of other species such as Common Wattle-eye, Great Reed Warbler, Yellow-spotted Barbet, Yellow-rumped Tinkerbird, Little Bee-eater, Blue-headed Coucal and two striking crimson flashes of Black-bellied Seedcrackers. The combination of water, riverine forest, rank vegetation, cultivated lands and swamp forest in the background made this place a rather attractive destination and one that has yet to reach full potential if more birding groups were to visit it. We certainly had a most unexpected bumper birding morning and will make all efforts to revisit it in future trips.

Unfortunately we had to turn around by 11h30 and return to Douala to collect the rest of the group from the airport. We heard back in Douala that all our trip participants coming from the USA had missed their flights due to another air traffic controller strike in France. Patrick however showed some seasoned traveler skills and caught the earliest outbound flight to Douala from a neighbouring airport. We were very glad to see him arrive, but at the time worried for the rest of the group’s whereabouts. Whilst Shannon caught up with some sleep, Keith and Yvonne traced the whereabouts of the rest of the party and their welfare, Patrick and Christian birded the hotel surroundings adding Senegal Coucal, Singing Cisticola, Pied Mannikin and Mottled Spinetail to the trip list. We dined at the little restaurant below the hotel and Patrick agreed to join us for a visit to Limbe Botanical Gardens the following morning.

Day 3: Limbe Botanical Gardens.

Today’s escapade had to be another half-day affair in order to be back in time to collect the rest of the party. We underestimated slightly our traveling time, which was challenged, by the fact that a healthy and growing dislike between the anglophone and francophone sections of the country require from each other specific documents to travel in each others road network. After a laborious buroctratic run around, in an attempt to regain composure, we stopped for a cup of coffee and freshly-baked croissants.

Outside Douala we stopped briefly to show Patrick some Piping Hornbills, and again got carried away with some good roadside birding. Grey Parrots, Gymnogene, Lizard Buzzard, Black Sparrow-hawk and an African Fish Eagle turned up in a matter of minutes. A Pygmy Kingfisher darted into a nearby tree which hosted both Yellow-rumped and Speckled Tinkerbird, as well as Little Bee-eater and Spectacled Weaver. By 09h00 we had made it to Limbe, bought our tickets and started birding the gardens which are nestled below the ominous Mt Cameroon, the tallest peak in west Africa. The gardens sprawl over a vast area but given that rain was threatening we birded the sections nearest the reception buildings, where we saw African Blue Flycatcher, Black-capped Waxbill, Little Greenbul, Speckled Mousebird, Common Wattle-eye, and two pairs of breath taking Western Bluebills. A stream crossing the gardens yielded a very confiding pair of Cassin’s Flycatchers, a Grey-hooded Kingfisher and the rather handsome blue morph of Reef Heron. Lunch at the Botanical gardens provided us a chance to experience how bleak and unproductive coastal birding in West Africa can be. The only seafaring species we could spot over lunch were scores of scavenging Yellow-billed Kites hovering above fisherman dugouts. The views of Bioko, however, were very impressive!

The return drive was uneventful, we transferred to the Sawa Hotel immediately and rushed over to the airport once more, fingers crossed hoping the rest of our party would emerge from the Air France flight. Our ground operator bribed his way into the baggage claim area to meet the arriving party. One by one, we saw them come out and our stomachs gradually unknotted Richard and Sarah Thomas (on a self guided Rockfowl quest), David Redfield, and finally Karen and Howie Nielsen…the tour was officially on!! Huge relief.

Day 4: La Digue –Campment du Waza

The early mob birded the hotel gardens at sparrows and we were duly rewarded with cracking views of Reichenbach’s Sunbird feasting in a mistletoe, White-chinned Prinia, Black and White Mannikins, Cardinal Woodpecker and Striped Kingfisher. From the hotel we scoped the harbour shore and got African Darter, Reed Cormorant, Great White Egret, Grey Heron and Reef Heron. The Cattle Egret roost at the hotel was scrutinized but no other ardeids were found. We took a taxi to La Digue the mangrove-mudflat shores below the hotel and slowly birded the coastline. A second Osprey for the trip was spotted. Hundreds of Royal Terns picked the churned up waters of a vessel leaving port. A pair of White-throated Blue Swallows patrolled the waters’ edge. The tide was high and very few waders were present. Only single individuals of Three-banded Plover, Ringed Plover, Common Sandpiper and scores of Malachite Kingfishers worked the shore. A surprise urban Lizard Buzzard perched on the wires allowing everyone to soak in some crisp scope views. A golf driving range produced a few Long-legged Pipits. Not far from here at the waters edge next to the mangroves we came across our target bird, Carmelite Sunbird, a male chasing a group of females. When they eventually parted we took notice of a Melodious Warbler in the same tree. On the way back to the hotel an African Goshawk, Palmnut Vulture and a Lanner Falcon were seen soaring over the hotel car park and swimming pool. At 13h00 we transferred with all our baggage to the airport and departed without delay for Maroua. Stepping out of the plane in Maroua felt like opening an oven door and having your eyebrows singed, the glaring light, the heat and the feeling every molecule of water in your face is leaving you for good…

Fortunately, our local guide greeted us from the shady arrivals terminal and broke the news to us that 54 litres of water awaited us in the car to quench any fears of dehydration. The only minor issue was the mislabeling of Dave’s luggage, which had not come out of the plane and was probably bound for Ngaoundere. Not having any of that, we sprinted into the tarmac and got hold of the technicians which were readying the plane for take off and got Dave to half scramble through the luggage and guts of the plane till he retrieved his bag. With several hours of bumpy, hot and slow road ahead of us we had no choice but to plod on, but it wasn’t long before we all burst out of the car in unison with our first Scissor-tailed Kite, much to the amusement of the locals who must have thought we were some brigade of desert rats. The elegant and slender raptor parollled a sector along the road, its elongated tail feathers, accentuating its pale body. The locals soon figured it out and joined in the spotting spree, Abyssinian Roller, Western Plantain Eater, Chestnut-bellied Starling, Green-winged Pytilia, Red-cheeked Cordonbleu, a melanistic Gabar Goshawk and a Bedouin’s Snake Eagle in the distance. A few kilometers up the road the habitat became even more inviting and since the light was fading, we decided to bash around the bushes and bag a few more specials including stunning views of Black and Rufous Scrub Robins, Viellot’s Barbet and Senegal Eremomela.

After a slow and safe drive we reached Campment du Waza, nestled atop a granite dome resembling a local settlement, criss-crossed by winding narrow allies, but in actual fact designed for tourists only in what was a very eco-sensitive effort. A Grayish Eagle Owl hooted a welcome at us whilst unpacking, Barn Owls flew overhead and perched fearlessly near our huts. Fresh bread, a green salad, roast chicken and loads of cold beer and grapefruit juice set us up for the night.

Day 4: Waza N.P

What a night!! Unbelievable heat, a shower that spewed scalding water and a "screeching" Barn Owl territorial dispute that lasted 6 hours. We had breakfast with a few African Silverbills nesting on the palm roof and a flock of Black Crowned Cranes in the plains below the encampment. Before entering the park we visited a couple of roadside waterholes south of Waza. The drive was slow due to excellent birding in the cool early hours… coveys of Clapperton’s Francolin scurried around us, a flustered Black-bellied Bustard took flight and landed a few meters away on burnt grassland, Blue-naped Mousebirds sunning, Pygmy and Beautiful Sunbirds harvested nectar on every Nicotiana plant, Little Green Bee-eaters sallying next to the road, a stunning Grasshopper Buzzard hunting next to the car, a family of Northern Ant-eating Chats, flocks of Chestnut-bellied Sandgrouse cruising overhead, a lone pair of Long-tailed Glossy Starlings and flocks of White-rumped Seedeaters and Sahel Paradise Whydahs clearing the path ahead.

Next to the road we encountered a family of Sand Foxes catching up some warm sun rays before retreating underground. To our shock a very pale morph of African Wild Cat was curled amidst them enjoying too the morning sun…in the background a troop of the exquisite Patas Monkey foraged in earnest. The waterhole was thick with birds and boiling with activity, at the waters edge we had a chance to scope and tease apart the differences amongst European Turtle Dove, Mourning Dove, Vinaceous Dove, Laughing and Collared Dove. The scope was also helpful to study the mixed seedeater flocks of White-rumped Seedeaters, Sahel Paradise Whydah, Redbilled Quelea, Chestnut-backed Finchlark and Chestnut-crowned Sparrow Weavers. An incoming flock of Helmeted Guineafowl sounded an alarm as a Golden Jackal strutted in for a drink. The waterhole was visited by trickling hordes of Chestnut-bellied Sandgrouse, a Spurwing Plover, Little Stint, Black-headed Heron, an Openbilled Stork, and another elegant Scissor-tailed Kite. The scrub around the waterhole produced Double-spurred Francolin, Red-billed (T.e.erythrorhynchus) and Grey Hornbill, Eurasian Hoopoe, White billed Buffalo Weaver and Grey Woodpecker. Several River Prinias responded well to tape and came into close range, and spishing about surfaced a few Red Pate Cisticolas, Northern Crombec, Red-billed Firefinch, Red-cheeked Cordonbleus, Black-rumped Waxbills and a curious Slender Mongoose.

Before entering the Park we collected our day guide and proceeded to the nearest waterhole. Before reaching the waterhole a herd of Topi crossed the road and we watched close-by a Tawny Eagle feasting on a francolin. The waterhole was teeming with birdlife, both around it, in it and over it. Surrounding the waterhole, scattered through the plains and beyond we estimated around 5000 Black crowned Cranes. During the two hours we sat here, we recorded Booted Eagle, Steppe Eagle, Bateleur, Fish Eagle, Gymnogene, Hooded and Whitebacked Vulture, both morphs sitting side by side of Yellowbilled (parasiticus) and Black Kite (migrans), European Marsh Harrier, Dark Chanting Goshawk, Gabar Goshawk, and a few more Grasshopper Buzzards. A 30 strong flock of Lesser Spotted Eagles, a rare Palearctic migrant for these latitudes were a most welcome sight and record for the trip. A high-flying Lanner Falcon was spotted as well as several stratospheric Accipiters sp that had to be left off the trip list. Coming in to drink were thousands of doves (Vinaceous, Collared, Namaqua and the odd Black-billed Wood Dove), dozens of Abyssinian Rollers and Greater Blue-eared Starlings as well as scores of White-throated Bee-eaters, Brown-headed and Common Sand Martins hawking insects above the water. Strutting the waters edge were Woolly-necked, Abdims and a small flock of Openbilled Storks, a few pairs of Hammerkops, Whitefaced Whistling Ducks (300) and a lone pair of Garganeys.

The bushes around the water had become a stop over for clouds of mixed seedeaters, especially Red-billed Queleas, hence the raptor activity. Sitting in the shadow of one of these hubs of activity we scored a Little Weaver, Bush Petronia, Melodious Warbler, Common Whitethroat, Willow Warbler and a stealthy Senegal Coucal weaving its way between the branches in search of a quick bite. On the mammal front we were blessed by the visit of a 100 strong elephant herd, with babies and young bulls of all age and sizes, which appeared initially in the horizon as a plume of dust and minutes later filled the atmosphere with the splashings, grumbles, trumpets and water and mud slinging antics. Topi, Roan Antelope, Warthog, Golden Jackal, Bouffon’s Kob and the sought after Red-fronted Gazelle pulled in throughout the morning.

We visited another waterhole further along were we added Marabou and White Stork, Ruppell’s and Lappet-faced Vulture, Montagu’s Harrier, Black-headed Lapwing, Yellow-billed Oxpecker and Northern Carmine Bee-eater to the morning list. By now the heat was unbearable and activity dying down fast, so we opted for a fast retreat to the camp for a dip, lunch and a short siesta before tackling the remains of the day. The pool at the camp is a great spot to admire at close range a whole suite of camp specials attracted to any water. Ethiopian and Barn Swallows perch in the shadow under the awnings, Little Green Bee-eaters foraged from the Syringa trees above the pool and Abyssinian Roller and Viellot’s Barbet carrying food back and forth. Bread-crumbs and a dripping tap were enough to attract White-rumped Seed-eaters, African Silverbills, Green-winged Pytilias, Black-rumped Waxbills, Red-cheeked Cordonbleus, Greater Blue eared Starlings and an immaculate Beautiful Sunbird.

It was evident that Waza NP was undergoing a severe drought and that a lot of the aquatic or flooded grassland species were absent. The afternoon was dedicated in large to find dry grassland species and we soon latched on to a feeding flock of Four-banded Sandgrouse, a pair of Cut-throat Finches, a foraging group of Speckle-fronted Weavers, a small flock of Greater Short-toed Larks at the edge of their southernmost limits and rarely recorded by other birding groups. Likewise we picked up a family of Spotted Thick-knees roosting in the shady undergowth, just as they do at home, except up here the species is uncommon and considered a vagrant anywhere south of Waza. A pleasant surprise was provided by a pair of Juvenile Egyptian Vultures drinking at a waterhole next to some heraldic Nubian Giraffes. We also had excellent views of a family of Yellow-billed Oxpeckers at work on a small herd of Roan. On the way out of the park a bustard like bird strutting the plains turned out to be a White-bellied Bustard, an often overlooked bustard in the area and one we would see plenty off in the following days. We left the park ailing for an extra day in this stunning enclave, somewhat healed by the sight of an even paler, stumpier Wild Cat near the entrance gate. After a shower we gathered to catch up with the trip list and travel notes, since the next morning required an early morning and everyone to be packed up at sparrows.

Day 5: Waza-Mora-Garoua

After a short drive towards Mora we were in place to start our search for a handful of local specials. A green flash overtaking the car turned out to be a Senegal Parrot, of which we caught some superb scope views once it perched in the morning light. This area consists of plains cris-crossed by eroded streams, small bushes and a thin layer of dry grass. Soon enough the group rejoiced at the sight of our first Cricket Longtail, which darted towards us perching on a flimsy twig barely 5m away. This dainty little warbler is covered in the most immaculate scales on the wing coverts and crown. The soft hues of tan and slate grey combine to make it an exceptionally attractive little passerine in this region.

A pair of White-bellied Bustards and a flock of Chestnut-bellied Sandgrouse flushed ahead of us as we systematically combed the area. As we narrowed down on our main targets in the low lying scrub around us produced Black and Rufous Scrub Robin, Northern Crombec, Pygmy and Variable Sunbirds, Blue-naped Mousebird, Common Whitethroat, White-billed Buffallo Weaver, Green-winged Pytilia, Viellot’s Barbet and Chestnut-bellied Starling. Interesting highlights included a Woodchat Shrike and Southern Grey Shrike, a Montagu’s Harrier and a pair of mating Scissor-tailed Kites. But the true cherry on top flushed in front of the group at about 09h30. It came flying across the beaters line allowing each one of us to follow in a smooth arc the rich rufous black and white contrasting wing pattern of our first Quail Plover. The butterfly-like wing beats were a sure give away, that we had found one of Africa’s most bizarre birds and a true enigma. Thought to be related to the buttonquails, this little guy has a propensity to run on the ground and as it hit the deck we had to make sure it did not get away. The bird landed a few meters behind the line so we turned, stretched the edges of the search line and enclosed the eroded gully and bush it landed in. Static, with bins glued to our faces and scanning the bush edges we awaited a few seconds until the bird emerged and started creeping shyly along the donga, allowing once again each and all of us to absorb some indelible memories of this highly sought-after, uncommon and highly localized species.

Spirits were soaring, we posed for Quail Plover photo, all doing our impressions of the little brown beast before we continued. We drove past Mora and stopped at the first set of suitable rocky escarpment, where we hoped to eek out a few other specials. Indeed in a matter of seconds and a little bit of playback a covey of Stone Partridges had gathered on a rock slab and were crowing and dancing about on the rocks. Minutes later a combination of spishing and playback brought down an inquisitive Rock-loving (Emin’s) Cisticola. By midday we reached Maroua, where we stopped briefly to buy mangos, have lunch and send some postcards. After this we proceeded south on what must have been the hottest drive in our lives. Four hours of slow, potholed roads, in the baking sun, shifting left and right avoiding the baking sun and unable to open windows, as it was as futile as trying to cool oneself by sticking a hair dryer on your face. We drank constantly through the day, it dawned on us that some of us had been drinking 4-5 liters of water a day, our sweat glands had been put to the test.

Near Garoua, we stopped for a double whammy of co-operative breeders, Piapiac and Brown Babbler. Everyone was glad to jump into the hotel’s pool, which although hot, procured mild relief. Beautiful Sunbirds, Whitethroats, Yellow White-eyes and Western Grey Plantain Eaters were common in the hotel gardens. The usual mob of die-harders set off in the afternoon for a short visit to the Benoue River whilst the remainder of the group put their feet up next to the pool. The Benoue River yielded a group of Hippos and Yellow-billed Shrike, Painted Snipe, Green Sandpiper and Spotted Redshank in a nearby flooded field. Despite the diversity at this small marsh, a short scan from the rivers edge revealed that we were on the wrong side of the tracks. A group of Egyptian Plovers was located on the opposite bank. So we raced across the bridge and reached the river’s edge which was bustling with bathing kids jumping and splashing about, a battery of men washing clothes, fishermen repairing nets, and elderly people cleaning themselves. None of this commotion seemed to bother the group of six immaculate and exquisite Egyptian Plovers right in front of us. But then I guess we are talking about a bird with nerves of steel, which happily dines amidst the jagged teeth and jaws of African crocodiles. A group of Collared Pratincoles shared the sandbank as did a family of Senegal Thicknees. The river’s edge produced Quail Finch, Winding Cisticola and Red-winged Warbler. We watched in awe when thousands upon thousands of Horseshoe Bats left the Benoue Bridge and filled the evening skies, quite a sight. But our good luck had yet not run out and in the dying light and possibly arriving for a late meal on the wing a Fox Kestrel flew overhead and tried its luck on a few bats.

Back at the hotel the news was shared with glee and stimulated everyone in favour of an early return. The checklist was a short affair but yielded two of any African birder most wanted species bagged in one day Quail Plover and Egyptian Plover, a case of sheer quality over quantity. Supper was jeered by the locals supporting Real Madrid as Manchester United was being ground to a pulp by Ronaldo and Raul.

Day 6: Garoua –Benoue N.P

After a brisk breakfast we drove back to the river. On the way to the waters edge we came across a Crested Lark, and enjoyed an awesome aerobatics display between a non descript lark and a Fox Kestrel, which the lark fairly and squarely out-stooped. The drive to Benoue NP was easy, short and spiced up with some more roadside views of Fox Kestrel and Heuglin’s Wheatear. On the mammal front we encountered a troop of Olive Baboons scurrying into the bush ahead of us. We reached Benoue NP gates shortly after noon, birding down the main road towards Buffle Noir Camp we located a Bearded Barbet, a party of the scarely seen Yellow Penduline Tits and a Swallow-tailed Bee-eater, several handsome Brown-backed Woodpeckers, Scarlet-chested Sunbird, a stunning white morph of African Paradise Flycatcher, a singing Black-crowned Tchagra, Grey-headed Bushshrike, Senegal Batis, Yellow-eyed Canaries, Familiar Chat and a high flying flock of Red-throated Bee-eaters.

En route we crossed paths with Adam Riley, Johnathan Roussouw, Dave Hoddinot and Erik Forsyth, SA birders and friends. A frantic scrutiny of sightings haves and have nots ensued, with fresh gen flying back and forth and endless maps drawn on the dirt road, leaving us well endowed to tackle Benoue and them to do Mora and Waza confidently. We had lunch at Buffle Noir and soon after, birded the camp’s grounds until the sun was low enough to tackle the Hippo Pools woodland downstream. The viewpoint and woodland around the camp proved to be the most productive. From the river in front the restaurant we saw Red-throated Bee-eaters perching, Purple Glossy Starling drinking, Red-necked Buzzard soaring, a pair of White-cheeked Olivebacks and a Whinchat. A troop of Black and White Colobus Monkeys came down onto the rocks to drink, providing unbeatable views of this angora-like primate. A herd of Western Kob had gathered at a water pool below. The deciduous woodland around the huts produced Violet Backed Starling, African Golden Oriole, Spotted Creeper, Brubru and Northern Black Flycatcher. At 15h30 we headed downstream towards hippo pools were we would search for a number of specials including the rare and localized Adamawa Turtle Dove. En route we came across many Western Kob, Bushbuck, Topi and Oribi, Red-flanked and Grimm’s Duiker bounding away. A pair of White-shouldered Black Tits gave away the arrival of a party, from where we teased out Yellowbreasted Hyliota, Lead-coloured Flycatcher, Northern Puffback, Dorst’s Cisticola, Grey-backed Camaroptera, Black-bellied, Bar-breasted and Black-faced Firefinch. Whislt spishing and whistling we enticed a Pearl-spotted Owl to make an appearance. Cabanis’ Buntings were abundant. A Denham’s Bustard pulled out of cover ahead of us and flew away in front of the group. At the river we encountered a laager of Hippos placidly resting in the water. Our birding was concentrated on the scrub covering the rivers edge. We enticed out a striking Black-headed Gonolek, another four Egyptian Plovers and a pair of Swamp Flycatchers.

We tried to call in Adamawa Turtle Dove in a patch of recommended riverine forest but we only succeeded in seeing a few Vinaceous Doves and a Rock Pigeon. We did however bump into a handsome pair of White-crowned Robin Chats. We returned to the river and from the bank watched some dove traffic to and from a pool, in less than five minutes and plenty of luck an Adamawa Turtle Dove came into drink and later flew to a perch and preened whilst we watched it through the scope. After this and as it was getting dark we slowly ambled back to the car bagging a calling African Scops Owl on the way. Spotlighting back to the camp revealed more Bushbuck, Western Kob, Oribi and both Red-flanked and Grimm’s Duiker. After supper a few of us set off on a night drive we soon were onto several Standard-winged Nightjars females and one well endowed male. The drive was pretty busy with over 15 Senegal Lesser Bushbabies glaring at us from the roadside, as was Oribi, Crayshaw’s Hare and Small Spotted Genet. Temperatures were very pleasant and once the generator at the camp was switched off sleeping was no challenge.

Day 7: Benoue NP – Ngaoundaba Ranch

Bird-breakfasting around camp was exquisite, nearby tappings lured us into a Grey, a Cardinal and a Golden-tailed Woodpecker. A group of "crowing" Bruce’s Green Pigeons landed above our heads, a flowering wild hibiscus brought in a Western Violet-backed Sunbird and the vitellinus form of Masked Weaver. A fruiting fig at the lower end of camp hosted a mixed flock of the immaculate White-crested Turaco and outrageous Violet Turacos feasting on ripe figs, surrounded by Western Plantain Eaters, Violet-backed and Purple Glossy Starling and several African Thrushes. Hving two of Africa’s most spectacular turacos in a single tree is a serious treat! The calls of a Red-chested Cuckoo and Striped Kingfisher resounded through camp. The remainder of the morning was spent birding some more riverine forest and scrub, we were dropped at Hippo pools and slowly ambled our way back to camp along the river. We came across a flock of Black-bellied Firefinches, a pair of Ashy Flycatchers and a noisy gaggle of Red-billed Woodhoopoes.

An Openbilled Stork, and a Purple Heron commuted between riverbed pools insearch of frogs, mussels and fish. A Rufous-crowned Roller the first one of the trip was at work above our heads. Wire-tailed Swallows jet-streamed the waters surface feasting on mosquitoes, whilst African Pied Wagtails flitted up and down from logs and rocks. At a large tree below the parking area we found Green-headed Sunbird and Red-winged Grey Warbler foraging. We taped in a pair of Fine-spotted Woodpeckers and found a wooded gully where we sat for most of the morning watching hundreds of seedeaters and other birds pull in for a safe drink including Orange-cheeked Waxbills, Red-cheeked Cordon-bleus, Black-rumped Waxbill, Red-billed Firefinch, Masked Weaver and Heuglin’s Weaver, African Paradise Flycatcher and African Blue Flycatcher, Violet-backed Starling, Greater Blue-eared Starling, Bush Petronia, Chestnut-crowned Sparrow-weaver, Yellow-eyed Canaries, Red-billed Quelea, Collared Sunbird, Mourning Dove, European Turtle Dove, Black-billed Wood Dove, Black Cuckoo and a few others.

Feeling the heat building up we plodded on, barely 20 meters from the pool our first Moho (or Oriole Warbler) awaited. This long-billed skulker crept silently in a tangle above our heads barely 3m away. The tape allowed us to pull it out onto an open snag and we literally feasted on the iridescence of the silver tinted black shingles that covered the little bird’s head. A Greater Honeyguide called nearby.

The walk back was pretty uneventful, hot and heavy going on thick loose sand, a Verreaux’s Eagle Owl flushed across the river and perched in the open allowing for some pretty awesome scope views. The drive to Ngaoundere and Ngaoundaba Ranch was only interrupted by a brief visit to a large marsh where we watched Red-shouldered Widowbirds, Spurwing Goose and loads of African Jacanas. By now we had moved up the Adamawa Plateau and temperatures had cooled considerably. A thundershower lurked on the horizon and the novel sensation of wanting to throw a fleece on came as a surprise to all of us.

We had lunch at Ngaoundere and tried to reconfirm our flights back to Yaounde, but computers were down. Stocked up with water we hit the road for the short drive to Ngaoundaba Ranch where we arrived in the late afternoon. Our reception committee comprised a pair of electric blue and cream Blue-bellied Rollers, a young Ovambo Sparrowhawk and a Grey Kestrel darting across the road. We were pleasantly surprised with our rooms, the view over the lake and gallery forest and the thought we could unpack and make this our home for the next three days.

We proceeded to bird the track along the lakeside from where we watched several Black Crakes and heard African Rail calling from vegetation. Another Sedge Warbler for the day was seen, a possible Greater Swamp Warbler made a brief appearance and a Great Reed Warbler grated away concealed in the reeds. Cattle, Intermediate and Great Egrets slowly gathered at a roost across the lake, at dusk we watched Black-crowned Night Herons set off into the night. We came across a mixed flock of birds working a termite emergence, Copper-tailed Glossy Starling, Wattled Starling, and the striking White Collared Starling snatching alates in mid-air. Yellow Bishops, Village and Baglafecht Weavers harvested their share perching from the long grass. European, Ethiopian and Petit’s Saw-wing Swalows sallied over the grassland. Square-tailed Drongo, African Golden Oriole and a Three-streaked Tchagra joined the feast. The evening progressed with a feast of a dinner in the hunting lounge, which was the closest we got to seeing Derby’s Giant Eland, a "ginormous" ungulate the nearby woodland was once healthily stocked with.

Day 8: Ngaoundaba Ranch

Pre-breakfast birding gathered the group at a section of gallery forest below the rooms. Aerial traffic had reversed, with Cattle egrets flying out and Black-crowned Night Herons coming in to roost. A Ross’s Turaco called in the distance whilst a Tropical Boubou serenaded us with its pleasant eerie calls. Bunched up in the undergrowth we blasted out a few calls of Spotted Thrush Babbler and got an immediate response. A pair pulled in, perching barely 2 m away from us, their white legs, chest and pale eyes in the undergrowth gave them a somewhat ghostly, but most welcome, appearance. Our second playback summoned a Grey-winged Robin-chat, but once the bird found nobody to argue with, it flitted off. A White-crowned Robin-chat peered in alert from the forest edge.

We struck gold at a fruiting tree at the edge of the gallery forest into which a bird party had assembled. Double-toothed Barbets were calling from the canopy. A large group of gleaners comprising White-chinned Prinias, Yellow White-eyes, Green-headed Sunbird, and another Cameroon endemic, a pair of Bamenda Apalis. A Simple Leaflove, an Oriole Warbler, Square-tailed Drongo, Nothern Black Flycatcher, yellow bellied tricolor form of Common Bulbul and African olden Oriole were also seen.

Breakfast appeared on tables in the gardens outside, a marvelous setting that allowed us to continue our birding unabated, croissant in one hand and bins at the ready in the other. A Baglafecht Weaver was busy raising a Klaas’s Cuckoo, a new host observation record for this brood parasite. But it was a displaying Blue-breasted Kingfisher sailing overhead that completely shook the house and had us all abandon the fresh baguettes, toast and jam. We spent the morning birding the woodlands and gallery forests near the main entrance of the ranch. As luck would have it, the first bird we stumbled upon was a female Emin’s Shrike perched on a twig very confidingly, allowing everyone to enjoy magic scope views. Spotted Flycatchers, Gambaga Flyctacher were soon added.

A cacophony of calls from a skittish group of Leafloves drove us into the forest where we eventually had protracted views of the species as it flew amongst tangles, whilst another Grey-winged Robin Chat obliged by coming in to tape. An inquisitive Yellowbill peered at us from a tangle. A Lemon Dove darted past, and an immature Greater Honeyguide flew in and perched in front of us. White-spotted Fluftails started calling from the undergrowth, they were to keep us busy for most of the morning as we shifted positions and played until every one in the group had a chance to see these dainty, speckled understorey denizens. But the cherry on top was as we emerged from the forest we flushed a pair of crimson-etched, white speckled, Dybowski’s Twinspots which surprisingly fled into the canopy not to be seen again.

Walking back to the ranch through the sparse woodland we came across Bruce’s Green Pigeon, Spotted Creeper, Collared Flycatcher, truckloads of Whinchats, Yellow-breasted Hyliota, Brown Babbler and several Tree Pipits. At a carcass below the ranch White-backed Vultures and Ruppell’s Griffon had gathered around, a Wahlberg’s Eagle and a Red-necked Buzzard soared in a thermal above with some Abdim’s Storks. Lunch was light, followed by a short rest, and since rain hung menacingly in the afternoon sky, some opted to stay behind instead of coming on an afternoon walk. At the ranch a Green-backed Woodpecker was sighted in the pine trees above the rooms. Riding on the winds before the downpour came a Eurasian Hobby. At the edge of the forest we snatched crippling views of both White-crested and Ross’s Turacos. An African Pygmy Kingfisher sailed past us at knee height and disappeared into the forest. A White-crowned Robin Chat showed up beautifully inside the forest where we had to take cover whilst the heavens ripped open and poured.

Emerging from the forest a spectacular Mottled Swift sliced through the air fast and low shot past us. The renewed skies alive with insects were thick with Eurasian and Palm Swifts. A flurry of activity had started as alates were dispersing and all and sundry made a feast of it. A Blue-breasted Kingfisher tried its luck from the top of a tree. A soaking wet Oriole Warbler surfaced from the tangles in a desperate attempt to dry off. On our way back to the ranch we watched a Long-crested Eagle play in the wind. At the ranch a welcoming fire was burning, and we sat doing the day’s birdlist over some well-deserved beer. For supper we were treated to a usual Ngoundaba feast, with some scrumptious soup and home baked fresh caught river Perch. Those with energy to spare joined the leaders on a night drive, the drive started on a pleasant note as we came across a Senegal Lesser Bushbaby on a tree, Crayshaw’s Hare on the road and a magnificent White-tailed Mongoose at the forest edge few meters away from the car. By now we had had excellent chances to study female Standard-winged Nightjars at close range, and we were eventually rewarded with unbeatable views of a male Standard-winged Nightjar perched on a rock, at a lek, right next to the car. His standards were bent backwards and flopped alongside him in a spectacular fashion! A single Black-shouldered Nightjar was flushed and a pennant-less male Pennant-winged Nightjar was also flushed further along the road. Plain Nightjar was heard calling but did not come into tape. Brown-chested Lapwings flew noisily above the car and we were able to watch them flying in the spotlight. A Barn Owl crossed the road at flight. On the way back to camp we found a magical Serval Cat on a hunt, only a few metres from the car, an image Christian had longed for after living in Africa for 13 years.

Day 9: Ngaoundaba Ranch.

With Shannon out of commission due to an ankle sprain, Patrick choosing to take it easy and bird at its own pace and Karyn in need of a sleep, Howie, Dave, Keith and Christian set off for a long walk along a new patch of gallery forest…this time fully armed with a GPS. We walked the woodland on both sides of the gallery forest and added a significant few to the trip list, namely: Levaillant’s Cuckoo, Black Wood-hoopoe, Black-capped Babbler and cracking views of Dybowski’s Twinspot preening.

In the afternoon we headed for a section of the ranch well known for its coveys of Schlegel’s Francolin, in similar fashion as the Emin’s Shrike, the leaders had not finished explaining the action plan to see this rare and elusive species when a pair of them scurried past us and ran down towards the woodland. Using the same technique practiced with the Quail Plover the group encircled the birds and closed in. The birds stood motionless allowing everyone in the group to relish their intricate breast feather patterns and colourful plumage from barely 3 m away. We drove on to the area where Brown-chested Lapwings had been spotted on the night drive, on the way we had African Cuckoo perched on the wires next to the road. A raging grass fire burnt ahead and was being attended by a towering flock of Abdim’s Stork and Yellow-billed Kites. Curiosity paid off and as we approached the flames we had superb views of several raptor species exploiting the fire edge, namely, Tawny Eagles, Steppe Eagle, Black-breasted Snake Eagle, Grasshopper Buzzard, Red-necked Buzzard, Shikra, Eurasian Hobby, a Grey Kestrel, three Eleonora’s Falcon and other daring passerines such as such as Whinchats, Golden Bishops and a Common Fiscal. An afternoon thrashing about for more lapwings managed to add Pearl-spotted Owl and White Helmetshrike to the list. Patrick had a dryer afternoon and got to grips with a male and female Red-shouldered Cuckoo-shrikes. After yet another impeccable Ngoundaba meal we attempted a repeat of the previous evening night drive, but it turned out to be a lot wetter, colder and not as eventful. No male Standard-winged Nightjars were seen but a few females did show off. A more advanced male Pennant-winged Nightjar flushed in front of the car. A Plain Nightjar was eventually tracked down off the road at exactly the same spot were it was heard the night before. The highlight was a Civet cat foraging in front of us as we were trying to locate the Plain Nightjar.

Day 10: Ngaoundaba Ranch – Yaounde

Having cleaned up on the specials we devoted this morning to a repeat view of the lapwings and Schlegel’s Francolin, failing to relocate either, but enjoying some other nice things nevertheless. A soaked and sunning Grey Kestrel, a stunning Red-necked Falcon on the deck, a Denham’s Bustard strutting alongside a flock of Abdims Stork, a flock of 25 Yellow-billed Shrikes, a flock of Red-billed Woodhoopoes, Gambaga Flycatcher and Coppery Sunbird spiced up the search.

Scanning, we spotted the unmistakable shape of an Abyssinian Ground Hornbill perched on the skyline a few kms away. Half an hour and 2.5 kms later, we reached the snag were a patient Abyssinian Ground Hornbill still perched and allowed all of us to soak it up. The walk back to the car produced Mouse-coloured Flycatcher and Bamenda Apalis at the edge of the gallery forest for those who still needed them. We returned to the ranch for lunch and to pack up, but from the rooms we spotted a large flock of Brown Twinspots on the lake path. We approached and scoped them at will. At the lake we were further rewarded with views of African Rail darting through eyes in the reed thickets and excellent views of the white-throated morph of Yellow-throated Leaflove (C.f.soror).

Once packed and fed we left for Ngaoundere with enough time to swing by a nearby marsh and bag Marsh Widowbird and Yellow-throated Longclaw. We also picked up Common Kestrel, Wattled Lapwing, Black-crowned Tchagra and Mosque Swallow. The drive to Ngaoundere was painless. We avoided having to pay excess luggage for the extra water by selling it to the canteen manager. We waved goodbye to Victor, whom we thought had performed beyond the call of duty, professionally, friendly and utterly organized. The flight left on time and we arrived in Yaounde where we met George our driver for the next leg of the trip. We were transferred to our hotel, had a rather jovial supper sparing no craving and making the most of the menu, completed the list for the day and crashed.

Day 11: Yaounde – Bamenda

Today we drove North from Yaounde to Bamenda, stopping en route for lunch and for a selected few birds. We crossed the Sanaga River and walked along the bridge where we saw Black-casqued Wattled Hornbill, White-throated Blue Swallow, Common Waxbill, Superb Sunbird and White-crowned Lapwings. At a village called Bafia we watched hundreds of Preuss’ Cliff swallows congregating at a water puddle to gather mud for nest building, quite a sight!! At Makerene we screeched to a halt as we noticed a flock of six large falcons circling above the town, which turned out to be the second flock of Eleonora’s Falcons.

Whislt eating lunch, the most gut-wrenching desperate yet familiar scream emanated from the parking lot. We made for the courtyard and found ourselves peering at two small and terriefied baby chimpanzees inside a transportable dog kennel as they were being loaded into a truck. The truck belonged to the Limbe Endangered Wildlife Rehabilitation Center, the two little chimps had been rescued by park rangers from their captors after their mothers had been shot. Their facial expressions filled us with desperate sadness as we realised nothing could be done or said to comfort these panic stricken babies, neither explain that their fate had just turned slightly for the better. Baby crocodiles, a Nile Monitor, a Black and White Colobus Monkey and Tantalus Monkey were also amongst the recovered haul.

We drove for most of the afternoon, but arrived at the Bafut- Nguemba turnoff with enough time try for some specials from the roadside. From the turn-off sign we had Little Grey Flycatcher. Further along the road we called a Yellow-breasted Boubou out of a tangle. Bannerman’s Weaver were feeding on the field’s edge. Mackinnon’s Shrike approached and perched in front of us attracted by our spishing, which also managed to yield a brief but more than adequate view of the richly coloured Bangwa Forest Scrub Warbler. Three young locals mesmerized by our bird pursuits offered to show us a bird kept by one of their fathers that to all intent and purposes fitted the description of a Bannerman’s Turaco. We explained that a captive one would not be of much interest to us but that a wild one is what we were after. Being able to help they led the way through gum plantations and grass fields to a cirque of plantations were Bannerman’s Turaco calls echoed non-stop, but with light dimming out and the plantation being on a steep slope and far away we opted to return the next day. We drove the last few kms to the Skyline Hotel in Bamenda, where we had a supper and slept comfortably.

Day 12: Bafut – Nguemba

Today we visited Lake Edib and birded the remaining patches of forest around it. It must be said that the area is in bad shape, and protecting it appears to be an impossible mission. Sightings in the area are probably tied to whether one hits the feeding flocks that forage between the myriad of indigenous retracting forest blobs scattered along the valley. As we wound our way up the valley we came across several parties of Bannerman’s Weavers. Next to the road a Cameroon Sunbird worked a flowering mistletoe. Little Grey Flycatchers and a noisy pair of Brown-backed Cisticolas flitted low across the road. Calling from a dead eucalypt snag we had our first Black-winged Oriole. Yellow-breasted Boubou came in inquisitively whilst playing for Montane Sooty Boubou. A small side stream hosted a pair of Montane Wagtails. Bannerman’s Turacos were calling from further up the valley. High pitched screeches gave away the presence of Yellow Bishops displaying on a bracken covered slope. As we walked up the road a rain of eucalypt flowerheads showed us the whereabouts of a Thick-billed Seedeater. A Grey-chested Illadopsis called below us by the stream and eventually showed well.

As we walked up the road a far more obliging Bangwa Forest Scrub Warbler called and perched out in the open a few metres from us. The metallic gratings of a wattle-eye on the opposite side of the road made us abandon the scrub warbler performance. We were duly rewarded with the arrival of a bird party led by a pair of Banded Wattle-eyes. The party also produced Western Montane Greenbul, African Dusky Flycatcher, Northern Double Collared Sunbird, Grey Apalis, Black-collared Apalis, Brown-capped Weaver and last but not least a surprise pair of Dybowskis Twinspots coming in to drink at a water trough.

Eventually we reached the lake, which had a sorry Dabchick and Moorhen on it, but from the opposite side Bannerman’s Turacos could be heard calling. The weather was perfect. Clear skies, no wind or threat of rain and better yet, no sign of the much-dreaded mist that usually lurks about these elevations. We continued birding up the road and soon hit another party, which had us pinned down for the remainder of the morning. In this party we recorded White-bellied Crested Flycatcher, Black-faced Rufous Warbler, African Hill Babbler, Black-billed Weaver and popping right in front of us from nowhere on a sunlit mossy branch a Bannerman’s Turaco at last. The bright crimson crest and yellow bill framing the whitish face. We ended up seeing eight during the day! During lunch we had good views of Elliot’s Woodpecker, Oriole Finches and a male Grey Cuckooshrike.

As the indigenous forest wanes the surrounding understorey below the gum trees is covered with bracken, here we flushed a roosting group of nightjars. Two females (or a female and a youngster) flew off and landed 10 meters away, the male just rose and landed on the ground a few meters away. All three birds were extremely dark brown, primaries were almost black with 2-3 tiny creamy, not white, flashes. On subsequent flushes the bird perched on a tree branch allowing for good close up views. The bird lacked any white or creamy scapulars and the shoulder did look darker than the rest of the folded wing. The end of the outer tail feathers were edged with a small white-cream marking. The face of the bird was extremely dark, a rufous collar around its neck and a rufous throat. The last flush of the male caused it to retreat into the indigenous forest. The other two, suspected to be females, were plainer, dark brown-black, with no wing or tail markings at all. We were unable to identify the species with the literature available, but, later that night we noted that on a previous ornithological sampling in this area, Nik Borrow recorded an aberrant nightjar species in this area. We have followed up on these (Richard Thomas found the dead juvenile a few days later) and believe the nightjar in question to be an undescribed morph of Black-shouldered Nightjar.

By spishing we managed to bring in several Ursula’s, Northern Double Collared and Little Green Sunbirds and a group of White-chinned Prinia. Whilst following the commotion we flushed a covey of Scaly Francolins. A heavy moulting Cassin’s Hawk Eagle showed up in the open allowing us to finally pin down its identity confidently. At a small forest patch further up the road Howie and Christian latched onto a pair of Red-faced Crimsonwing and Blue-billed Firefinches whilst Keith, Shannon, Dave and Patrick came across a Gabon Woodpecker and a Rufous-vented Paradise Flycatcher. As we slowly made our way back back to the pick up spot we came across a Cameroon Montane Greenbul, an endemic we had struggled to hear throughout the morning. Back at the hotel we were all tired, had supper, enjoyed a pleasant meal and called it a day.

Day 13: Bamenda – Nyasoso

As were about to depart we received a call from our tour agent telling us he was on his way with news about our return flights and in need to talk to the driver. Whilst we waited, we birded around the hotel and managed to bag Lanner Falcon, 2 young Common Kestrels, Blue-potted Wood-dove, Neumann’s Starling, Splendid Sunbird, Black-capped Waxbill, Red-cheeked Cordon-bleu and Patrick managed a single White-crowned Cliff Chat. The drive to Nyasoso took most of the day, the only highlight being roadside specials for sale such as a Forest Rat, a Cane Rat and a massive Rock Hyrax hanging by their tails. The agent informed us that due to a tiff between Kenyan and Cameroon Airlines, Shannon’s flight had been cancelled. We got Yvonne in the Cape Town office to work on it while we went birding.

On the way we stocked up with food for the following days in Mt Kupe, and enjoyed the lifely bustle and bubbling deals that went on at the market stalls. We came across a massive caravan of oxen which we learnt are constantly on the hoof from the highlands down to Douala and permanently selling and buying stock as they amble across the country. We arrived in Nyasoso with enough time to unpack and do a quick down-the- road foray. Although we did not cover much ground we did manage to see several interesting species namely: a Naked Faced Barbet colony in a snag, several African Piculets, Forest Swallow, Slender-billed Greenbul, a flock of Rufous-crowned Eremomelas, Banded Prinia, Dusky Blue and Vanga Flycatchers, Western Olive, Black-shouldered Puffback and mating Whitebreasted Negrofinches. Back at the Women’s Community Centre, we were warmly welcomed and treated to a delicious carefully prepared meal. We did the days list after dinner and opted to do Max’s trail the following day.

Day 14 : Mt Kupe ( Max’s Trail- up to Max’s Camp)

At 06h30 Kingsley, our guide, and a porter collected us at the Women’s Centre and we set off towards Max’s Trail. An African Goshawk was chirping away from a nearby fig as we left. The first section of Max’s Trail climb through farmbush, whilst they may look pretty degraded and unexciting, they are the prime birding area on the trail. The numbers and diversity encountered along this first hundred meters of ascent are unequalled once the forest is reached where birding is slow and tough. Unsurprisingly, we spent most of the morning ambling back and forth between forest patches in a caleidoscope of Yam, Plantain, Cofee and Cocoa plantations but it was worth it as we managed to bag the following: Luhder’s Bush-shrike, White-bellied Crested Flycatcher, Banded Prinia, Bristle-faced Barbet, Narrow-tailed Starling, Chestnut-capped Flycatcher, Yellow-billed Barbet, Sooty Flycatcher, Chestnut Wattle-eye, Olive Sunbird, Cameroon Olive Greenbul, Yellow-billed Turaco, Black-capped Woodland Warbler, Black-faced Rufous Warbler, Red-bellied Paradise and Yellow-footed Flycatcher and the exquisite Black-throated Apalis. Before reaching the camp at 1100m, we taped in a stunning male Yellow-bellied Wattle-eye.

With the path getting steeper, extremely slippery and rain menacing, Shannon and Dave opted to walk back and bird their way out with Raymond the extra guide. Howie, Karyn, Keith and Christian proceeded with Kingsley to the 1500m camp saddle. After an arduous climb we reached the famous yet unimpressive Max’s camp. Kingsley our "guide", was knacked and he passed out and slept the rest of the afternoon whilst we birded the saddle. Although it was the middle of the day and activity was poor we managed to see a flock of White-throated Mountain Babblers working the mossy branches of a massive emergent, a brief yet yielding view of a Montane Sooty Boubou, a Bar-tailed Trogon, several Little Olivebacks, and Fire-crested Alethes calling around us. On the way back to the center we came across several bird parties with much the same as we saw on the way up, with the exception of a large flock of Little Olivebacks and a pair of displaying Grey-headed Broadbills.

After a shower, a cup of tea and something to eat Keith and Christian took a short walk along the Nature trail in an attempt to locate a Fraser’s Eagle Owl that had been seen and heard calling on previous nights by Richard and Sarah Thomas. We failed to locate the roosting youngster but manged to get cracking views of Luhder’s Bush Shrike, Black-billed Turaco, Pale-fronted Negre-finch, Little Greenbul and a massive flock of Little Swifts which according to previous efforts in the area appear to be a recent addition to the local bird fauna. On our way back to the center we made final arrangements with the driver of the 4x4 that would take us to the Bakossi Mountains the following day, and arranged an extra guide/interpreter to overlook the meeting with the chief and libation ceremony to gain access to the forest in the Bakossi’s.

Day 15: Bakossi Mountains

After a good sleep and a brisk breakfast we crammed into the 4x4 and headed up to the small village of Kodmin in the Bakossi Mountains. The climb was rather exciting, slip’n sliding on near vertical gradients but nothing like a weathered bush taxi driver to conquer the road and get us to the spot safe and sound. By 07h00 we were at the chief’s palace, with a bunch of sleepy faces draped in blankets known as the elder council ready to start the proceedings. Our interpreter explained our intentions to the chief to spend the day in the forest, birdwatching and trying to track down the critically endangered Mt Kupe Bush-shrike as well as other specials. Permission was granted by the chief and consensus was reached by the counsel of elders. The presentation of a bottle of whisky (the chiefs favourite mouthwash) was a pre-requisite to the whole process. Six bottles of beer where then purchased and Keith and the Chief joined in prayer and salute to the rising sun requesting safe passage and good fortune in our endeavour to the ancestral spirits. This was achieved by ingesting copious amounts of beer at 07h30 and chewing on a wretchedly bitter seed of Pina Cola. Howie joined in on the beer drinking all by himself! Once the beer was finished and a nominal forest fee had been settled, we were all freed and allowed to walk into the forest.

It did not take us long before we heard a Grey-sided Broadbill calling next to the path, but our sights were now aimed at the legendary Mt Kupe Bush Shrike so we pushed on and started trying for it as we had heard that some groups had dipped and others had recently spent a whole day trying for it and only saw the bird at 16h45 in the evening. As we walked the gentle grassy slopes towards the forest edge we came across Mackinnon’s Shrike and a single overflying Cameroon Olive Pigeon. At the first forest patch we crossed a White-tailed Warbler darted between participants in the group and later gave better views as we played back its call. A Brown-crowned Tchagra was spotted preening atop a snag and in the forest understorey we came across some Black-billed Weavers, Northern Double Collared Sunbird and a calling Yellow Longbill foraging in a thick tangle.

We eventually reached a wooded valley which from the grassy hill were we stood offered an excellent vantage point to call for Green-breasted Bush Shrike a scarce and vulnerable endemic. After a series of calls a long protracted hoot sounded softly from a palm tangle below us and was shortly followed by the bird itself which jumped into the open for a short time and disappeared back into the tangle. With half the group being able to put glass on the bird, the time and descriptions that ensued became tense as minutes waned, the bird became silent and any movement in the tangles ahead of us ceased. Eventually a hoot came from the right at the beginning of the valley and we swiftly moved closer. The bird emerged from where the hooting was oozing and took off on a long gliding flight in front of the group landing on the canopy of a nearby tree where we all enjoyed long scoping views of this precious endemic.

Our next target was the rare and highly localized, critically endangered Mt. Kupe Bushshrike. By 09h00 we were positioned to give it a first shot, the bush-shrike apparently feeds at the bottom of valleys and creeps up to the top of the mountain to roost. We played sparingly for a few minutes, no bush shrike, instead a female Petit’s Cuckoo-shrike, a Pink-footed Puffback and plenty Collared Sunbirds were seen foraging in the trees above us.

We decided to try a different stake-out whilst it was early in the morning, and so we slinked across the mountain ridge to another position deeper in the forest and at the rim of two adjacent valleys. No sooner had we arrived and an individual let out three grating calls down into the valley to the left. All our bins were trained on the tangles and lower branches in the area until the magic words sounded "Got it!!" The neat white throat was ringed by a black girdle. An individual with a maroon patch in the middle of the throat was working its way through a tangle and definitely towards us. One by one everyone in the group latched onto the bird as it slowly crept through branches and creepers overhead us. The bird behind the black mask returning our hypnotized stare. Shannon who did not get a great view of the bird, eventually saw another individual later that morning, eye-level and foraging on a palm frond at the forests’ edge on her way back to the car. Great views, elation and euphoria overcame the group and it was not even 11h00…and a whole day ahead of us to bird for scraps with no dipping pressure. Somehow a huge appetite enveloped us and we decided to polish off our packed lunches in celebration. At 11h10 the heavens opened, and the rain came hammering down, and it was with a feeling of destiny and fate that we had arrived so perfectly, to see this great bird before the conditions effectively ended play.

The remainder was rain affected, but we were able to bird along trails and forest paths, sheltering from showers under thick tangles and venturing to the forest edge when it stopped. During these interludes we enjoyed several Green Longtail, Dark-backed and Black-billed Weavers, a territorial dispute between two flocks of White-throated Mountain Babblers 18 birds in total, Elliot’s Woodpecker, Velvet Mantled Drongo, Slender-billed Greenbul, White-bellied Robin Chat, Black-throated Apalis, White-throated Bee-eater, Black Sparrowhawk and Blue-headed Coucal. We also heard Sooty Boubou, Crossley’s Ground Thrush and Bocage’s Akalat. A White-bellied Robin-chat appeared, as if by magic, to wish us good-bye as we left the forest. Despite the effect of the rain we felt most fulfilled, thus by 1630 we had returned to the village and drove back to Nyasoso. The day ended with spirits soaring, an incredibly rare bird, a superb meal and a well deserved rest.

Day 16: Nyasoso – Mundemba (Korup NP Headquarters)

Early risers Howie, Keith and Christian started the day at the Nature Trail to open a bit of an appetite before breakfast and lessen the prospect of a driving day ahead. We latched onto a party and hardly ever moved again from the tree thicket it was in. One by one we built up a healthy list made out of White-breasted Negrofinch, Green Hylia, Bates’s Sunbird, Cassin’s Honeyguide, Yellowrumped Tinkerbird, Simple Leaflove, Green Crombec, White-chinned Prinia, Dusky Blue Flycatcher, Pintail Whydah and a mixed flock of Lesser Striped and Forest Swallow and Little Swift. We were back at the center in time for breakfast. We left Nyasoso after returning to the campus and taking some pictures of a large mural depicting our previous day’s conquest , Mark Andrews illustration of a 6 foot tall Mt Kupe Bush Shrike. We drove to Toumbel where we stocked up on food and water to take the next day into Korup. The drive was long and slow, especially the last 60 kilometres which were on dirt along secondary forest and slash and burnt farmland.

Despite being tight for time we did manage to stop a few times and bird along the road, and were incredibly blessed when a Congo Serpent Eagle flushed and perched on a bare branch next to the road and allowed everyone to scope and soak in this magnificent and uncommon raptor. Other birds worth mentioning along this stretch were Blue-headed Dove, Emerald Cuckoo, Blue-headed Coucal, Sabine’s Spinetail, Red-breasted Swallow, Speckled Tinkerbird, Yellow-spotted Barbet, Chattering Cisticola and a stunning male Yellow-browed Camaroptera in full display with its grey gular pouches at full tilt…quite a sight.

When we eventually reached Mundemba the headquarters had closed half an hour earlier than usual. We dropped our luggage and participants at the hotel and sent a messenger to gather Chief Leopold, the park’s director. The chief was intensely accommodating, organized and understanding and in no time he sent orders to gather a contingent of porters, guides, cook, mattresses and anything else we needed to proceed as planned with our tour. We drafted a budget together and he issued all the necessary permits to enter the park. The entire experience left both Keith and myself gob smacked it was simply unbelievable, intensely efficient, bribe free and utterly unexpected…the gods were clearly on our side. Back at the hotel, we enjoyed a shower and an early sitting for some beer and pomelo juice, we feasted on the best garlic chicken we tasted in Cameroon and were entertained by the cooks pet, a captive and rather sad looking White-nosed Guenon.

Day 17: Korup N.P – Rengo Camp

We packed our bags and after breakfast headed for the bridge over the Mana River. The magical façade that greeted us was a wall of rainforest over a suspension bridge. It was like entering the lost world! Here we birded most of the morning whilst the porters, cook, all our materials and food gathered, bundled up and were eventually ready to march into Rengo Camp. The sheer wall of 30 meter tall trees across the wide Mana River leaves nothing to the imagination and expectations of a tropical birder or a tropical rainforest for that matter. Rising clouds of steam wafting off a shining lush canopy, a long sturdy suspension bridge over a rushing river with flocks of Grey Parrots pinging and screeching ahead and dainty Rock Pratincoles feeding youngsters on the rocks below got us all hyped up and excited.

Whilst we waited on the bridge tower we watched Giant, Malachite and Pied Kingfishers, Common Sandpiper, Black and White casqued and Pied Hornbills, Black-casqued Wattled Hornbill, Western Nicator, Spotted Greenbul, Black and White Mannikins, Sabine Spinetail, African Green Pigeon, and a nest building Gery-crowned Negrofinch. The environment was slow, dark, neck wrenching and hard. We started picking up a list of species as our eyes aclimatised to the light and movement of birds in the understorey, our ears tuned into the canopy dome acoustics, discovered the birds comfort zone, tamed our approaching movements… Soon as we’d mastered this simple code of conduct we were feasting on Xavier’s Greenbul, Yellow-whiskered Greenbul, Plain Greenbul, African Paradise Flycatcher and almost but not quite our first illadopsis. By 11h00 we started our trek through to Rengo, our guide Moki proved to be very knowledgable on plants and trees, not so on birds. Fortunately we knew that Kennedy, the main bird guide in the park was coming out of the forest on patrol. We had left message in town for him that we would be needing his services. We met him in the forest on his way out and arranged with him to meet us that same afternoon at Rengo camp, which he agreed to do. As we covered the 8 km walk we came across several ant swarms, which were well attended by species such as Fire-crested Alethe, Green-tailed Bristlebill, Common Bristlebill and Forest Robin. A shower of fruits from above gave away a pair of Great Blue Turacos. Hornbills flapped their wings vigorously above our heads, over the canopy and irritatingly beyond our sight.

We parted from Rengo Camp at 16h30 and got to Picathartes Knoll at 17h00, Moki walked us casually up the hill and seated us on a rock slab below the massive granite boulder, two nests facing away from us, made of mud just like a giant swallow’s nest got us all excited, fresh nesting material further raised our hopes. We were nonetheless worried about the decrease in sightings by other groups and the fact we were the last ones of the year to visit the knoll after a heavy, daily visitation rate. As it was friends told us that the roosting group decreased from 9 individuals to just one over the last four consecutive nights. We were to say the least, suitably worried and contemplating an alternative plan.

We waited till dusk, and eventually darkness, we sat motionless on the rock slab, balancing our buttocks precariously to avoid cramps and tingles. Crouched and sweaty we took in all the scent our bodies produced, a Forest Martin shot past a few times, a bat emerged from its roost, a gecko’s barking got us all tense and expectant. In retrospect one single hiss of Picathartes may have been heard but in essence, we all knew our fist chance at the mythical beast was blown and although we had potentially two more nights, we walked back nervously in the gloom of the forest.

On the way back we heard Nkulengu Rail doing its guttural call, and a Sjostedt’s Barred Owl called through an impenetrable multi-layered canopy. We met Kennedy on our way back and shared with him our gloom at not having sighted the Rockfowl. We discussed the approach, timing and waiting positioning employed and it turned out that whilst never really being its fault…a botanist should not lead birders to on a Picathartes hunt…. we’d approached the rock from the wrong side (the same side where Picathartes like coming in), we had been seated on the access hall where Picathartes approach the roost and faced the wrong direction. We laughed it off and were instantly injected with renewed hope that the correct approach would yield better results. We decided to leave early in the morning and try the roost at dawn.

The bath in the river under the dim lighting of a torch was utterly refreshing and idyllic. Supper was basic, but a Wood Owl calling above spiced up the meal. A call reminiscent of a young Pel’s Fishing Owl sounded in the distance. After supper the calls of the young fishing owl were heard again and those that were keen to risk getting wet joined Keith and myself on a hunt. Keith, clad in strops, his underpants and a torch were a sight for sore eyes. Although the youngser sounded like a Pel’s, it was in fact the Central African version of the beast, the Vermiculated (Bouvier’s) Fishing Owl. Not having heard any adults yet we played away. An immediate response from above confirmed we were under six storeys of thick branches and leaves and there was no way we would see the bird, that was just marginally above us. We moved into a nearby clearing where a tree had fallen and a bare snag stood, the playback attracted the birds and we were able to see their flying shapes silhouetted against the sky, but none would perch. In the ensuing panic Keith stepped backwards onto something resembling a spiney black pineapple, the majority which broke off in his foot. So much for wearing strops in the rainforest? The birds moved off slightly and we followed until we reached another clearing where a large tree was visible and after a little more tape one of the birds came in and perched on an exposed branch. We lifted the torch to see its dark black eyes peering back at us. This ginger, lightly streaked beast boomed back at us once once or twice as we traded swearwords in whispers as we feasted our eyes on it! We had it comfortably sitting in the spotlight for a few minutes in two occasions. Sensational! Although we were well pleased with this Mega-tick, the uncomfortable feeling of sleeping Picathartes-less left room for wanting more! Falling asleep with a chorus of crickets and frogs stridulating and croaking away was a challenge. Tree Hyraxes sounded their eerie screams, fortunately a few kilometers away.

Day 18: Korup NP.

An hour before dawn, those keen to try for the rockfowl set off into the forest. A few hundred meters away from camp the mornings first surprise emerged as we heard the approach of a calling Spot-breasted Ibis which flew over our heads and proceeded calling into the distance, the calls of one of Africa’s rarest ibis echoed in our heads for most of the trek to Picathartes Knoll. Sjostedt’s Barred Owl and Nkulengu Rail were heard on the way too. Kennedy made us dispose and conceal any shiny, rustling or bright coloured clothing, torches were switched off and everyone cautioned to watch their stepping, no snaps, cracks or whispering allowed, single line and watching out for darting shadows in the undergrowth. To say he got us all psyched up is a gross understatement. We crept stealthily up and around the knoll, hugging the rock and entering the hall from a completely different angle…Kennedy wedged us at the base of the rock facing a vegetated entrance to the hall immediately opposite the colonies nests. We waited for several hours but once again the birds did not appear, Kennedy however reassured that morning viewings are rare and that evening sightings were far more reliable if well orchestrated. Somehow, it was nice to hear but did not quell the dipping angst that was fast growing in our minds.

The next best thing we could hope for was a cup of coffee and some breakfast, which was pleasantly delayed by a short chase after a group of foraging Black Guineafowl. Whilst off the main path we decided to play for Sjostedt’s Barred Owl and got a reply straight away, after a short search we had one individual beautifully perched and calling above our heads. Back at camp whilst having breakfast a flock of Red-billed Dwarf Hornbills foraged in the trees around the camps glade. Breakfast was interrupted by a feeding flock a few meters inside the forest. It yielded Red-headed Malimbe, White-throated Greenbul, Yellow Longbill, Shinning Drongo and Lesser Bristlebill. We then decided to walk slowly towards Rengo Rock and see how far we made it before 15h00 by which time we hoped to have eaten lunch and be ready to try for the Rockfowl a third time.

Howie and Karyn reached Rengo Rock and on their way scored a White-crested Hornbill and a White-spotted Flufftail foraging in a boggy area. Keith, Dave and Christian got sidetracked with a few skulkers such as Brown Illadopsis, Brown-chested Alethe and Blue-headed Wood-dove, plus a few others such as Green Turaco, Buff-spotted Woodpecker, a flock of Icterine Greenbuls, Blue-billed Malimbe and Chestnut Wattle-eye. An Eastern Bearded Greenbul was heard but only brief views were obtained.

After lunch we headed once more to the knoll, for another gut-wrenching wait for Rockfowl. The same process ensued, and by 16h00 we were seated, silent and once again, expectant. Geckos started barking and Forest Swallows darted through the hall again. Tick-tock, tick-tock. This time the wait was short (35mins) before the Dracaenas at the entrance to the cave (long stemmed undergrowth palm-type plant) quivered violently, the culprits still out of sight. A gentle telegraph nudge made its way down the line of birders and binoculars rose slowly and expectantly. Suddenly and silently it flew into the cavern and landed on a boulder in the center of the cave. It dawned on us, that the cabaret show was about to unfold. The Picathartes jumped to the top of the boulder, completely backlit, no colours visible, as if taunting us a while longer. Then, eventually, it hopped to the rock face in front of the nests exposing its stunning red dome, its grey-blue frontal shield, the silky grey of its back and the immaculate cream of its chest. A shower of other individuals erupted from nearby rocks whilst others still foraged the knolls’ outskirt. In total we watched 7 individuals bounding with millimetric precission from rock to vertical creepers, clinging on to the rock face, occupying the nests, foraging, preening and all the time keeping an eye on us from less than a few metres. The silence was broken by a Jurrassic "hiss", like slabs of granite rubbing against each other they communicated in their prehistoric way. In a split second our luck had turned and most of us had no doubt we’d seen the best bird of our lives. After 10 minutes we decided to leave them alone and we walked back in the dark, glowing in excitement. There are certain moments that define why we birdwatch, and I think we had all just had one of those! Now, finally it all meant something, our excited mutterings were priceless, Grey-necked Picathartes, Spot-breasted Ibis, Black Guineafowl and Vermiculated Fishing Owl in 24 hours…we rest our case.

Day 19: Korup N.P

Today we visited Rengo Rock, a massive granite dome that bulges out in the middle of the forest creating a structure large enough to build an observation platform and watch any hornbills moving over the canopy. We had no trouble bagging Chocolate-backed Kingfisher and also had good views of Sabine’s and Cassin’s Spinetails, Pied and Piping Hornbills and Green Hylia. A bird party below Rengo Rock spiced up the morning with Tit Hylia, Grey Longbill, Dusky Crested Flycatcher, Shining Drongo, Red-billed Dwarf Hornbill, Blue-billed, Red-headed and the stunning Rachel’s Malimbe. Along the trail back to camp we also came across Green Turaco, Blue Turaco, Yellow-bellied Wattle Eye, Fraser’s Sunbird, Green Hylia, the flavipunctata race of Hairy-breasted Barbet and Western Nicator. Close to Rengo camp we had stunning views at a pair of Forest Flycatchers. We packed and gently ambled back to Ibida Inene in order to reduce walking distance during our last and final birding morning in the park. Keith spotted a covey of Forest Francolins scurrying into the undergrowth ahead of him. Karen got the best sighting of a Grey-throated Rail. At one of the bird parties we encountered we came across an immaculate Rufous Flycatcher Thrush. We came across a Red Colobus troop feeding in the canopy, White-crowned Hornbills were very vocal and offered brief glimpses as they tail-gated the dispersing troop of monkeys. We heard several groups of White-nosed Guenons, and Shannon, who was ahead of the group came across a few alarmed Drills crashing through the undergrowth.

At one of the river crossings Christian wandered off to cross over an old log, on approaching the bank, a small pale "duiker" backside conspicuously adorned with a jet black tail dove over the bank and splashed into the water… only water ripples were to be seen I flinched selfishly as I realised that is all I had seen from my first ever Water Chevrotain it had embanked itself… it was nevertheless immensely refreshing to catch a glimpse of this rare acuatic creature. We arrived in camp and headed straight for a refreshing swim in the river. The afternoon was spent birding around camp, but mostly packing, chatting, having copious amounts of tea and liquids and enjoying a stunning Rufous breasted gabonensis form of Black Cuckoo was lured in with a tape much to our delight and Shannon’s disgrace as she was catapulted to the ground the moment the tour leaders took off from the bench they were sharing with her… Shannons bench acrobatics and unbeatable sense of humour were priceless. Our final supper was shared with a pair of calling Wood Owls.

Day 20: Korup – Douala

After breakfast we headed back to the Mana River where we waited for George, our driver, from the tower’s of the suspension bridge. It was from here that the group clinched its final and definitive sight on an adult Yellow-casqued Wattled Hornbill. We collected Patrick at Mundemba, where he had decided to stay for the past few days instead of venturing into the steamy mists of Korup, he looked way more refreshed than we did and full of energy. His amblings around the town had produced African Crake, Western Bluebill, and African Dwarf Kingfisher. On our way out of Mundemba a Shinning Blue Kingfisher darted across in front of the van and into a drainage channel.

The drive to Douala was interrupted on several occasions to bird some patches of forest clearings although we were unable to add much else to our comprehensive list. We had lunch in Kumba and proceeded to Douala reaching the Kenya Airlines offices in time to sort out Shannon’s flight debacle. Fortunately a very professional and efficient staff at Kenya Airlines, offered Shannon a new flight plan and took care of all her accommodation expenses in the interim, Yvonne had in the interim alerted Shannnon’s family about her temporary delay. We all gathered at the Ibis hotel in Douala for a final beer and an official goodbye.
 

Cameroon Bird Trip List
The taxonomy and nomenclature follow: Clements, James F. 2000. Birds of the World: A Checklist. Fifth Edition. Vista, CA: Ibis Publishing Co.
 

	1	Little Grebe	Tachybaptus ruficollis
	2	Great Cormorant	Phalacrocorax carbo
	3	Long-tailed Cormorant	Phalacrocorax africanus
	4	Darter	Anhinga melanogaster
	5	Gray Heron	Ardea cinerea
	6	Black-headed Heron	Ardea melanocephala
	7	Purple Heron	Ardea purpurea
	8	Great Egret	Ardea alba
	9	Intermediate Egret	Egretta intermedia
	10	Little Egret	Egretta garzetta
	11	Squacco Heron	Ardeola ralloides
	12	Cattle Egret	Bubulcus ibis
	13	Striated Heron	Butorides striatus
	14	Black-crowned Night-Heron	Nycticorax nycticorax
	15	Hamerkop	Scopus umbretta
P	16	Yellow-billed Stork	Mycteria ibis
	17	African Openbill	Anastomus lamelligerus
	18	Abdim's Stork	Ciconia abdimii
	19	Woolly-necked Stork	Ciconia episcopus
	20	White Stork	Ciconia ciconia
	21	Marabou Stork	Leptoptilos crumeniferus
	22	Sacred Ibis	Threskiornis aethiopicus
H	23	Spot-breasted Ibis	Bostrychia rara
	24	Hadada Ibis	Bostrychia hagedash
	25	Western Reef Heron	Egretta gularis
	26	White-faced Whistling-Duck	Dendrocygna viduata
	27	Spur-winged Goose	Plectropterus gambensis
	28	Hartlaub's Duck	Pteronetta hartlaubii
	29	Garganey	Anas querquedula
	30	Osprey	Pandion haliaetus
	31	Bat Hawk	Macheiramphus alcinus
	32	Black-shouldered Kite	Elanus caeruleus
	33	Scissor-tailed Kite	Chelictinia riocourii
	34	Black Kite	Milvus migrans
	35	African Fish-Eagle	Haliaeetus vocifer
	36	Palm-nut Vulture	Gypohierax angolensis
	37	Hooded Vulture	Necrosyrtes monachus
	38	Egyptian Vulture	Neophron percnopterus
	39	White-backed Vulture	Gyps africanus
	40	Rueppell's Griffon	Gyps rueppellii
	41	Lappet-faced Vulture	Torgos tracheliotus
	42	Beaudouin's Snake-Eagle	Circaetus beaudouini
	43	Brown Snake-Eagle	Circaetus cinereus
	44	Bateleur	Terathopius ecaudatus
	45	Congo Serpent-Eagle	Dryotriorchis spectabilis
	46	Western Marsh-Harrier	Circus aeruginosus
	47	Montagu's Harrier	Circus pygargus
	48	African Harrier-Hawk	Polyboroides typus
	49	Lizard Buzzard	Kaupifalco monogrammicus
	50	Dark Chanting-Goshawk	Melierax metabates
	51	Gabar Goshawk	Micronisus gabar
	52	Red-chested Goshawk	Accipiter toussenelii
K&C	53	Chestnut-flanked Sparrowhawk	Accipiter castanilius
	54	Shikra	Accipiter badius
	55	Ovampo Sparrowhawk	Accipiter ovampensis
	56	Black Goshawk	Accipiter melanoleucus
	57	Grasshopper Buzzard	Butastur rufipennis
	58	Red-necked Buzzard	Buteo auguralis
	59	Lesser Spotted Eagle	Aquila pomarina
	60	Tawny Eagle	Aquila rapax
	61	Steppe Eagle	Aquila nipalensis
	62	Wahlberg's Eagle	Aquila wahlbergi
	63	Booted Eagle	Hieraaetus pennatus
	64	Long-crested Eagle	Lophaetus occipitalis
	65	Cassin's Hawk-Eagle	Spizaetus africanus
	66	Eurasian Kestrel	Falco tinnunculus
	67	Fox Kestrel	Falco alopex
	68	Gray Kestrel	Falco ardosiaceus
	69	Red-necked Falcon	Falco chicquera
	70	Eurasian Hobby	Falco subbuteo
	71	Lanner Falcon	Falco biarmicus
	72	Eleonora's Falcon	Falco eleonorae
	73	Schlegel's Francolin	Francolinus schlegelii
K	74	Forest Francolin	Francolinus lathami
H	75	Scaly Francolin	Francolinus squamatus
	76	Double-spurred Francolin	Francolinus bicalcaratus
	77	Clapperton's Francolin	Francolinus clappertoni
	78	Stone Partridge	Ptilopachus petrosus
K&C	79	Black Guineafowl	Agelastes niger
	80	Helmeted Guineafowl	Numida meleagris
	81	Quail-plover	Ortyxelos meiffrenii
	82	Black Crowned-Crane	Balearica pavonina
	83	White-spotted Flufftail	Sarothrura pulchra
H	84	Nkulengu Rail	Himantornis haematopus
Kar	85	Gray-throated Rail	Canirallus oculeus
	86	African Rail	Rallus caerulescens
P	87	African Crake	Crecopsis egregia
	88	Black Crake	Amaurornis flavirostris
	89	Common Moorhen	Gallinula chloropus
	90	Stanley Bustard	Neotis denhami
	91	White-bellied Bustard	Eupodotis senegalensis
	92	Black-bellied Bustard	Lissotis melanogaster
	93	African Jacana	Actophilornis africanus
	94	Greater Painted-snipe	Rostratula benghalensis
	95	Black-winged Stilt	Himantopus himantopus
	96	Senegal Thick-knee	Burhinus senegalensis
	97	Spotted Thick-knee	Burhinus capensis
	98	Egyptian Plover	Pluvianus aegyptius
	99	Collared Pratincole	Glareola pratincola
	100	Rock Pratincole	Glareola nuchalis
	101	Gray Pratincole	Glareola cinerea
	102	Spur-winged Plover	Vanellus spinosus
	103	Black-headed Lapwing	Vanellus tectus
	104	White-headed Lapwing	Vanellus albiceps
	105	Wattled Lapwing	Vanellus senegallus
	106	Brown-chested Lapwing	Vanellus superciliosus
	107	Common Ringed Plover	Charadrius hiaticula
	108	Three-banded Plover	Charadrius tricollaris
	109	White-fronted Plover	Charadrius marginatus
	110	Spotted Redshank	Tringa erythropus
	111	Marsh Sandpiper	Tringa stagnatilis
	112	Green Sandpiper	Tringa ochropus
	113	Wood Sandpiper	Tringa glareola
	114	Common Sandpiper	Actitis hypoleucos
	115	Ruff	Philomachus pugnax
	116	Royal Tern	Sterna maxima
	117	African Skimmer	Rynchops flavirostris
	118	Chestnut-bellied Sandgrouse	Pterocles exustus
	119	Four-banded Sandgrouse	Pterocles quadricinctus
	120	Speckled Pigeon	Columba guinea
H	121	Afep Pigeon	Columba unicincta
K&C	122	Cameroon Pigeon	Columba sjostedti
	123	Lemon Dove	Columba larvata
	124	Eurasian Turtle-Dove	Streptopelia turtur
	125	Adamawa Turtle-Dove	Streptopelia hypopyrrha
	126	African Collared-Dove	Streptopelia roseogrisea
	127	African Mourning Dove	Streptopelia decipiens
	128	Red-eyed Dove	Streptopelia semitorquata
	129	Vinaceous Dove	Streptopelia vinacea
	130	Laughing Dove	Streptopelia senegalensis
	131	Black-billed Wood-Dove	Turtur abyssinicus
	132	Blue-spotted Wood-Dove	Turtur afer
	133	Tambourine Dove	Turtur tympanistria
	134	Blue-headed Wood-Dove	Turtur brehmeri
	135	Namaqua Dove	Oena capensis
	136	Bruce's Green-Pigeon	Treron waalia
	137	African Green-Pigeon	Treron calva
	138	Red-headed Lovebird	Agapornis pullarius
	139	Gray Parrot	Psittacus erithacus
	140	Senegal Parrot	Poicephalus senegalus
	141	Great Blue Turaco	Corythaeola cristata
	142	Guinea Turaco	Tauraco persa
	143	White-crested Turaco	Tauraco leucolophus
	144	Yellow-billed Turaco	Tauraco macrorhynchus
	145	E Bannerman's Turaco	Tauraco bannermani
	146	Red-crested Turaco	Tauraco erythrolophus
	147	Violet Turaco	Musophaga violacea
	148	Ross' Turaco	Musophaga rossae
	149	Western Plantain-eater	Crinifer piscator
	150	Levaillant's Cuckoo	Clamator levaillantii
H	151	Red-chested Cuckoo	Cuculus solitarius
	152	Black Cuckoo	Cuculus clamosus
	153	African Cuckoo	Cuculus gularis
	154	Klaas' Cuckoo	Chrysococcyx klaas
	155	African Emerald Cuckoo	Chrysococcyx cupreus
	156	Dideric Cuckoo	Chrysococcyx caprius
	157	Yellowbill	Ceuthmochares aereus
	158	Blue-headed Coucal	Centropus monachus
	159	Senegal Coucal	Centropus senegalensis
	160	Barn Owl	Tyto alba
	161	African Scops-Owl	Otus senegalensis
H	162	Grayish Eagle-Owl	Bubo cinerascens
H	163	Fraser's Eagle-Owl	Bubo poensis
	164	Verreaux's Eagle-Owl	Bubo lacteus
	165	Vermiculated Fishing-Owl	Scotopelia bouvieri
H	166	African Wood-Owl	Strix woodfordii
	167	Pearl-spotted Owlet	Glaucidium perlatum
	168	Sjostedt's Owlet	Glaucidium sjostedti
	169	Black-shouldered Nightjar	Caprimulgus nigriscapularis
	170	Plain Nightjar	Caprimulgus inornatus
	171	Pennant-winged Nightjar	Macrodipteryx vexillarius
	172	Standard-winged Nightjar	Macrodipteryx longipennis
	173	Mottled Spinetail	Telacanthura ussheri
	174	Sabine's Spinetail	Rhaphidura sabini
C	175	Cassin's Spinetail	Neafrapus cassini
	176	African Palm-Swift	Cypsiurus parvus
	177	Mottled Swift	Tachymarptis aequatorialis
	178	Common Swift	Apus apus
	179	African Swift	Apus barbatus
	180	Little Swift	Apus affinis
	181	Horus Swift	Apus horus
	182	White-rumped Swift	Apus caffer
	183	Bates' Swift	Apus batesi
	184	Speckled Mousebird	Colius striatus
	185	Blue-naped Mousebird	Urocolius macrourus
K&C	186	Narina Trogon	Apaloderma narina
	187	Bar-tailed Trogon	Apaloderma vittatum
H	188	Bare-cheeked Trogon	Apaloderma aequatoriale
	189	Shining-blue Kingfisher	Alcedo quadribrachys
	190	Malachite Kingfisher	Alcedo cristata
	191	African Pygmy-Kingfisher	Ispidina picta
P	192	Dwarf Kingfisher	Ispidina lecontei
	193	Chocolate-backed Kingfisher	Halcyon badia
	194	Gray-headed Kingfisher	Halcyon leucocephala
	195	Woodland Kingfisher	Halcyon senegalensis
	196	Blue-breasted Kingfisher	Halcyon malimbica
	197	Striped Kingfisher	Halcyon chelicuti
	198	Giant Kingfisher	Megaceryle maxima
	199	Pied Kingfisher	Ceryle rudis
	200	Red-throated Bee-eater	Merops bulocki
	201	Little Bee-eater	Merops pusillus
	202	Swallow-tailed Bee-eater	Merops hirundineus
	203	White-throated Bee-eater	Merops albicollis
	204	Green Bee-eater	Merops orientalis
	205	Blue-cheeked Bee-eater	Merops persicus
	206	Rosy Bee-eater	Merops malimbicus
	207	Northern Carmine Bee-eater	Merops nubicus
	208	Abyssinian Roller	Coracias abyssinica
	209	Rufous-crowned Roller	Coracias naevia
	210	Blue-bellied Roller	Coracias cyanogaster
	211	Broad-billed Roller	Eurystomus glaucurus
	212	Eurasian Hoopoe	Upupa epops
	213	Green Woodhoopoe	Phoeniculus purpureus
	214	Black Scimitar-bill	Rhinopomastus aterrimus
	215	White-crested Hornbill	Tockus albocristatus
	216	Red-billed Dwarf Hornbill	Tockus camurus
	217	Red-billed Hornbill	Tockus erythrorhynchus
	218	African Pied Hornbill	Tockus fasciatus
	219	African Gray Hornbill	Tockus nasutus
	220	Piping Hornbill	Ceratogymna fistulator
	221	Black-and-white-casqued Hornbill	Ceratogymna subcylindricus
	222	White-thighed Hornbill	Ceratogymna albotibialis
	223	Black-casqued Hornbill	Ceratogymna atrata
	224	Yellow-casqued Hornbill	Ceratogymna elata
	225	Abyssinian Ground-Hornbill	Bucorvus abyssinicus
	226	Naked-faced Barbet	Gymnobucco calvus
	227	Bristle-nosed Barbet	Gymnobucco peli
	228	Speckled Tinkerbird	Pogoniulus scolopaceus
K&C	229	Red-rumped Tinkerbird	Pogoniulus atroflavus
	230	Yellow-throated Tinkerbird	Pogoniulus subsulphureus
	231	Yellow-rumped Tinkerbird	Pogoniulus bilineatus
	232	Yellow-fronted Tinkerbird	Pogoniulus chrysoconus
	233	Yellow-spotted Barbet	Buccanodon duchaillui
	234	Hairy-breasted Barbet	Tricholaema hirsuta
	235	Vieillot's Barbet	Lybius vieilloti
	236	Double-toothed Barbet	Lybius bidentatus
	237	Bearded Barbet	Lybius dubius
	238	Yellow-billed Barbet	Trachyphonus purpuratus
	239	Greater Honeyguide	Indicator indicator
	240	Lesser Honeyguide	Indicator minor
	241	Willcock's Honeyguide	Indicator willcocksi
	242	Zenker's Honeyguide	Melignomon zenkeri
	243	Cassin's Honeyguide	Prodotiscus insignis
	244	Wahlberg's Honeyguide	Prodotiscus regulus
	245	African Piculet	Sasia africana
	246	Fine-spotted Woodpecker	Campethera punctuligera
	247	Green-backed Woodpecker	Campethera cailliautii
K&C	248	Tullberg's Woodpecker	Campethera tullbergi
	249	Buff-spotted Woodpecker	Campethera nivosa
	250	Cardinal Woodpecker	Dendropicos fuscescens
	251	Gabon Woodpecker	Dendropicos gabonensis
	252	Elliot's Woodpecker	Dendropicos elliotii
	253	Gray Woodpecker	Dendropicos goertae
	254	Brown-backed Woodpecker	Dendropicos obsoletus
	255	Goldentailed Woodpecker	Campethera abingoni
	256	Gray-headed Broadbill	Smithornis sharpei
	257	Rufous-sided Broadbill	Smithornis rufolateralis
	258	Chestnut-backed Sparrow-Lark	Eremopterix leucotis
	259	Greater Short-toed Lark	Calandrella brachydactyla
	260	Crested Lark	Galerida cristata
	261	Sun Lark	Galerida modesta
	262	Bank Swallow	Riparia riparia
	263	Plain Martin	Riparia paludicola
	264	Gray-rumped Swallow	Hirundo griseopyga
	265	Rock Martin	Hirundo fuligula
	266	Barn Swallow	Hirundo rustica
	267	Ethiopian Swallow	Hirundo aethiopica
	268	Wire-tailed Swallow	Hirundo smithii
	269	White-throated Blue Swallow	Hirundo nigrita
	270	Lesser Striped-Swallow	Hirundo abyssinica
	271	Rufous-chested Swallow	Hirundo semirufa
	272	Mosque Swallow	Hirundo senegalensis
	273	Preuss' Swallow	Hirundo preussi
	274	Forest Swallow	Hirundo fuliginosa
	275	House Martin	Delichon urbica
	276	Square-tailed Sawwing	Psalidoprocne nitens
	277	Petit's Sawwing	Psalidoprocne petiti
	278	Yellow Wagtail	Motacilla flava
	279	Mountain Wagtail	Motacilla clara
	280	Yellow-throated Longclaw	Macronyx croceus
	281	African Pipit	Anthus cinnamomeus
	282	Long-legged Pipit	Anthus pallidiventris
	283	Tree Pipit	Anthus trivialis
	284	Gray Cuckoo-shrike	Coracina caesia
K&C	285	Petit's Cuckoo-shrike	Campephaga petiti
	286	Red-shouldered Cuckoo-shrike	Campephaga phoenicea
	287	Common Bulbul	Pycnonotus barbatus
	288	Cameroon Mountain Greenbul	Andropadus montanus
	289	Little Greenbul	Andropadus virens
K	290	Gray Greenbul	Andropadus gracilis
K	291	Ansorge's Greenbul	Andropadus ansorgei
	292	Plain Greenbul	Andropadus curvirostris
	293	Slender-billed Greenbul	Andropadus gracilirostris
	294	Yellow-whiskered Bulbul	Andropadus latirostris
	295	Western Mountain-Greenbul	Andropadus tephrolaemus
K&C	296	Honeyguide Greenbul	Baeopogon indicator
K	297	Sjostedt's Greenbul	Baeopogon clamans
	298	Spotted Greenbul	Ixonotus guttatus
	299	Simple Greenbul	Chlorocichla simplex
	300	Yellow-throated Greenbul	Chlorocichla flavicollis
	301	Leaf-love	Phyllastrephus scandens
	302	Cameroon Olive-Greenbul	Phyllastrephus poensis
	303	Gray-headed Greenbul	Phyllastrephus poliocephalus
	304	White-throated Greenbul	Phyllastrephus albigularis
	305	Icterine Greenbul	Phyllastrephus icterinus
	306	Xavier's Greenbul	Phyllastrephus xavieri
	307	Common Bristlebill	Bleda syndactyla
	308	Green-tailed Bristlebill	Bleda eximia
	309	Yellow-throated Nicator	Nicator vireo
	310	Red-tailed Greenbul	Criniger calurus
	311	Eastern Bearded-Greenbul	Criniger chloronotus
	312	White-bearded Greenbul	Criniger ndussumensis
	313	Rufous Flycatcher-Thrush	Neocossyphus fraseri
D	314	White-tailed Ant-Thrush	Neocossyphus poensis
K	315	Crossley's Ground-Thrush	Zoothera crossleyi
	316	African Thrush	Turdus pelios
	317	Brown-chested Alethe	Alethe poliocephala
	318	Fire-crested Alethe	Alethe diademata
	319	Red-faced Cisticola	Cisticola erythrops
	320	Singing Cisticola	Cisticola cantans
	321	Chattering Cisticola	Cisticola anonymus
	322	Chubb's Cisticola	Cisticola chubbi
	323	Rock-loving Cisticola	Cisticola aberrans
	324	Red-pate Cisticola	Cisticola ruficeps
	325	Dorst's Cisticola	Cisticola dorsti
	326	Winding Cisticola	Cisticola galactotes
	327	Stout Cisticola	Cisticola robustus
	328	Tawny-flanked Prinia	Prinia subflava
	329	River Prinia	Prinia fluviatilis
	330	White-chinned Prinia	Prinia leucopogon
	331	Banded Prinia	Prinia bairdii
	332	Red-winged Prinia	Prinia erythroptera
	333	Red-winged Gray Warbler	Drymocichla incana
	334	Green Longtail	Urolais epichlora
	335	Cricket Longtail	Spiloptila clamans
	336	Black-collared Apalis	Apalis pulchra
K&C	337	Black-capped Apalis	Apalis nigriceps
	338	Black-throated Apalis	Apalis jacksoni
K&C	339	Masked Apalis	Apalis binotata
	340	Buff-throated Apalis	Apalis rufogularis
	341	E Bamenda Apalis	Apalis bamendae
	342	Gray Apalis	Apalis cinerea
	343	Yellowbreasted Apalis	Apalis flavida
	344	Oriole Warbler	Hypergerus atriceps
	345	Grey-backed Camaroptera	Camaroptera brachyura
	346	Yellow-browed Camaroptera	Camaroptera superciliaris
	347	Olive-green Camaroptera	Camaroptera chloronota
K&C	348	African Bush-Warbler	Bradypterus baboecala
	349	Bangwa Scrub-Warbler	Bradypterus bangwaensis
	350	Black-faced Rufous-Warbler	Bathmocercus rufus
	351	Sedge Warbler	Acrocephalus schoenobaenus
	352	Great Reed-Warbler	Acrocephalus arundinaceus
	353	White-tailed Warbler	Poliolais lopezi
	354	Senegal Eremomela	Eremomela pusilla
	355	Rufous-crowned Eremomela	Eremomela badiceps
	356	Green Crombec	Sylvietta virens
	357	Northern Crombec	Sylvietta brachyura
	358	Yellow Longbill	Macrosphenus flavicans
	359	Gray Longbill	Macrosphenus concolor
	360	Green Hylia	Hylia prasina
	361	Black-capped Woodland-Warbler	Phylloscopus herberti
	362	Yellow-bellied Hyliota	Hyliota flavigaster
	363	Violet-backed Hyliota	Hyliota violacea
	364	Garden Warbler	Sylvia borin
	365	Whitethroat	Sylvia communis
	366	Pale Flycatcher	Bradornis pallidus
	367	Northern Black-Flycatcher	Melaenornis edolioides
	368	African Forest-Flycatcher	Fraseria ocreata
	369	Spotted Flycatcher	Muscicapa striata
	370	Gambaga Flycatcher	Muscicapa gambagae
	371	Sooty Flycatcher	Muscicapa infuscata
	372	Swamp Flycatcher	Muscicapa aquatica
	373	African Dusky Flycatcher	Muscicapa adusta
	374	Little Gray Flycatcher	Muscicapa epulata
	375	Yellow-footed Flycatcher	Muscicapa sethsmithi
	376	Dusky-blue Flycatcher	Muscicapa comitata
	377	Cassin's Flycatcher	Muscicapa cassini
	378	Gray Tit-Flycatcher	Myioparus plumbeus
	379	European Pied Flycatcher	Ficedula hypoleuca
	380	Forest Robin	Stiphrornis erythrothorax
K&C	381	Bocage's Akalat	Sheppardia bocagei
	382	White-bellied Robin-Chat	Cossyphicula roberti
	383	Gray-winged Robin-Chat	Cossypha polioptera
	384	Snowy-crowned Robin-Chat	Cossypha niveicapilla
	385	White-crowned Robin-Chat	Cossypha albicapilla
	386	Black Scrub-Robin	Cercotrichas podobe
	387	Rufous Bush Chat	Cercotricas galactotes
	388	Whinchat	Saxicola rubetra
	389	African Stonechat	Saxicola torquata
	390	Heuglin's Wheatear	Oenanthe heuglini
	391	Familiar Chat	Cercomela familiaris
	392	Northern Anteater-Chat	Myrmecocichla aethiops
	393	Mocking Cliff-Chat	Thamnolaea cinnamomeiventris
K&C	394	African Shrike-flycatcher	Megabyas flammulatus
	395	Black-and-white Shrike-flycatcher	Bias musicus
	396	Brown-throated Wattle-eye	Platysteira cyanea
	397	E Banded Wattle-eye	Platysteira laticincta
	398	Chestnut Wattle-eye	Platysteira castanea
K	399	White-spotted Wattle-eye	Platysteira tonsa
K&C	400	Black-necked Wattle-eye	Platysteira chalybea
	401	Yellow-bellied Wattle-eye	Platysteira concreta
	402	Senegal Batis	Batis senegalensis
	403	Black-headed Batis	Batis minor
K&C	404	West African Batis	Batis occulta
	405	Chestnut-capped Flycatcher	Erythrocercus mccallii
	406	African Blue-Flycatcher	Elminia longicauda
	407	Dusky Crested-Flycatcher	Elminia nigromitrata
	408	White-bellied Crested-Flycatcher	Elminia albiventris
	409	Blue-headed Crested-Flycatcher	Trochocercus nitens
	410	Black-headed Paradise-Flycatcher	Terpsiphone rufiventer
	411	Rufous-vented Paradise-Flycatcher	Terpsiphone rufocinerea
K&C	412	Bates' Paradise-Flycatcher	Terpsiphone batesi
	413	African Paradise-Flycatcher	Terpsiphone viridis
	414	Gray-necked Rockfowl	Picathartes oreas
	415	Blackcap Illadopsis	Illadopsis cleaveri
	416	Brown Illadopsis	Illadopsis fulvescens
	417	African Hill Babbler	Illadopsis abyssinica
	418	Gray-chested Illadopsis	Kakamega poliothorax
	419	Thrush Babbler	Ptyrticus turdinus
	420	Blackcap Babbler	Turdoides reinwardtii
	421	Brown Babbler	Turdoides plebejus
	422	White-throated Mountain-Babbler	Kupeornis gilberti
	423	White-winged Black-Tit	Melaniparus leucomelas
	424	Spotted Creeper	Salpornis spilonotus
	425	Yellow Penduline-Tit	Anthoscopus parvulus
	426	Tit-hylia	Pholidornis rushiae
	427	Scarlet-tufted Sunbird	Deleornis fraseri
	428	Western Violet-backed Sunbird	Anthreptes longuemarei
P	429	Violet-tailed Sunbird	Anthreptes aurantium
	430	Little Green Sunbird	Anthreptes seimundi
K&C	431	Green Sunbird	Anthreptes rectirostris
	432	Collared Sunbird	Hedydipna collaris
	433	Pygmy Sunbird	Hedydipna platura
	434	Reichenbach's Sunbird	Anabathmis reichenbachii
	435	Green-headed Sunbird	Cyanomitra verticalis
	436	Blue-throated Brown Sunbird	Cyanomitra cyanolaema
K&C	437	Cameroon Sunbird	Cyanomitra oritis
	438	Western Olive-Sunbird	Cyanomitra obscura
	439	Carmelite Sunbird	Chalcomitra fuliginosa
	440	Green-throated Sunbird	Chalcomitra rubescens
	441	Scarlet-chested Sunbird	Chalcomitra senegalensis
	442	Olive-bellied Sunbird	Cinnyris chloropygius
K&C	443	Tiny Sunbird	Cinnyris minullus
	444	Northern Double-collared Sunbird	Cinnyris preussi
	445	Beautiful Sunbird	Cinnyris pulchellus
	446	Superb Sunbird	Cinnyris superbus
	447	Variable Sunbird	Cinnyris venustus
	448	E Ursula's Sunbird	Cinnyris ursulae
K&C	449	Bates' Sunbird	Cinnyris batesi
	450	Copper Sunbird	Cinnyris cupreus
	451	African Yellow White-eye	Zosterops senegalensis
	452	African Golden Oriole	Oriolus auratus
	453	Western Black-headed Oriole	Oriolus brachyrhynchus
	454	Black-winged Oriole	Oriolus nigripennis
	455	Emin's Shrike	Lanius gubernator
	456	Southern Gray Shrike	Lanius meridionalis
	457	Mackinnon's Shrike	Lanius mackinnoni
	458	Common Fiscal	Lanius collaris
	459	Woodchat Shrike	Lanius senator
	460	Yellow-billed Shrike	Corvinella corvina
	461	Brubru	Nilaus afer
	462	Northern Puffback	Dryoscopus gambensis
	463	Red-eyed Puffback	Dryoscopus senegalensis
	464	Pink-footed Puffback	Dryoscopus angolensis
	465	Black-crowned Tchagra	Tchagra senegala
	466	Brown-crowned Tchagra	Tchagra australis
	467	Luehder's Bushshrike	Laniarius luehderi
	468	Tropical Boubou	Laniarius aethiopicus
	469	Black-headed Gonolek	Laniarius erythrogaster
	470	Yellow-breasted Boubou	Laniarius atroflavus
	471	Fuelleborn's Boubou	Laniarius fuelleborni
K&C	472	Gray-green Bushshrike	Telophorus bocagei
	473	Sulphur-breasted Bushshrike	Telophorus sulfureopectus
K&C	474	Many-colored Bushshrike	Telophorus multicolor
	475	E Mt. Kupe Bushshrike	Telophorus kupeensis
K&C	476	Fiery-breasted Bushshrike	Malaconotus cruentus
	477	Green-breasted Bushshrike	Malaconotus gladiator
	478	Gray-headed Bushshrike	Malaconotus blanchoti
H	479	White Helmetshrike	Prionops plumatus
	480	Square-tailed Drongo	Dicrurus ludwigii
	481	Shining Drongo	Dicrurus atripennis
	482	Fork-tailed Drongo	Dicrurus adsimilis
	483	Piapiac	Ptilostomus afer
	484	Pied Crow	Corvus albus
	485	Wattled Starling	Creatophora cinerea
	486	Greater Blue-eared Glossy-Starling	Lamprotornis chalybaeus
	487	Lesser Blue-eared Glossy-Starling	Lamprotornis chloropterus
	488	Bronze-tailed Glossy-Starling	Lamprotornis chalcurus
	489	Splendid Glossy-Starling	Lamprotornis splendidus
K&C	490	Purple Glossy-Starling	Lamprotornis purpureus
	491	Long-tailed Glossy-Starling	Lamprotornis caudatus
	492	Chestnut-bellied Starling	Lamprotornis pulcher
K&C	493	Purple-headed Glossy-Starling	Lamprotornis purpureiceps
	494	Violet-backed Starling	Cinnyricinclus leucogaster
	495	Red-winged Starling	Onychognathus morio
	496	Waller's Starling	Onychognathus walleri
	497	Neumann's Starling	Onychognathus neumanni
	498	Narrow-tailed Starling	Poeoptera lugubris
	499	White-collared Starling	Grafisia torquata
	500	Yellow-billed Oxpecker	Buphagus africanus
	501	N. Gray-headed Sparrow	Passer griseus
	502	Bush Petronia	Petronia dentata
	503	White-billed Buffalo-Weaver	Bubalornis albirostris
	504	Speckle-fronted Weaver	Sporopipes frontalis
	505	Chestnut-crowned Sparrow-Weaver	Plocepasser superciliosus
	506	Bannerman's Weaver	Ploceus bannermani
	507	Baglafecht Weaver	Ploceus baglafecht
	508	Little Weaver	Ploceus luteolus
	509	Spectacled Weaver	Ploceus ocularis
	510	Black-necked Weaver	Ploceus nigricollis
	511	Black-billed Weaver	Ploceus melanogaster
	512	African Masked-Weaver	Ploceus velatus
	513	Village Weaver	Ploceus cucullatus
	514	Vieillot's Weaver	Ploceus nigerrimus
	515	Forest Weaver	Ploceus bicolor
K	516	Preuss' Weaver	Ploceus preussi
	517	Brown-capped Weaver	Ploceus insignis
	518	Compact Weaver	Pachyphantes superciliosus
	519	Black-throated Malimbe	Malimbus cassini
	520	Rachel's Malimbe	Malimbus racheliae
	521	Red-vented Malimbe	Malimbus scutatus
K&C	522	Red-bellied Malimbe	Malimbus erythrogaster
	523	Gray's Malimbe	Malimbus nitens
S	524	Crested Malimbe	Malimbus malimbicus
K&C	525	Red-headed Malimbe	Malimbus rubricollis
	526	Red-billed Quelea	Quelea quelea
	527	Yellow Bishop	Euplectes capensis
	528	Fan-tailed Widowbird	Euplectes axillaris
	529	Yellow-shouldered Widowbird	Euplectes macrourus
	530	Marsh Widowbird	Euplectes hartlaubi
	531	Grosbeak Weaver	Amblyospiza albifrons
K&C	532	Woodhouse's Antpecker	Parmoptila woodhousei
	533	White-breasted Negrofinch	Nigrita fusconota
	534	Chestnut-breasted Negrofinch	Nigrita bicolor
	535	Pale-fronted Negrofinch	Nigrita luteifrons
	536	Gray-headed Negrofinch	Nigrita canicapilla
	537	Fernando Po Oliveback	Nesocharis shelleyi
	538	Gray-headed Oliveback	Nesocharis capistrata
K&C	539	Red-faced Pytilia	Pytilia hypogrammica
	540	Red-faced Crimson-wing	Cryptospiza reichenovii
	541	Black-bellied Seedcracker	Pyrenestes ostrinus
	542	Western Bluebill	Spermophaga haematina
	543	Brown Twinspot	Clytospiza monteiri
	544	Dybowski's Twinspot	Euschistospiza dybowskii
	545	Bar-breasted Firefinch	Lagonosticta rufopicta
	546	Red-billed Firefinch	Lagonosticta senegala
	547	Black-bellied Firefinch	Lagonosticta rara
	548	African Firefinch	Lagonosticta rubricata
	549	Black-faced Firefinch	Lagonosticta larvata
	550	Red-cheeked Cordonbleu	Uraeginthus bengalus
	551	Orange-cheeked Waxbill	Estrilda melpoda
	552	Black-rumped Waxbill	Estrilda troglodytes
	553	Common Waxbill	Estrilda astrild
	554	Black-crowned Waxbill	Estrilda nonnula
	555	Black-headed Waxbill	Estrilda atricapilla
	556	African Quailfinch	Ortygospiza atricollis
	557	African Silverbill	Lonchura cantans
	558	Bronze Mannikin	Lonchura cucullata
	559	Black-and-white Mannikin	Lonchura bicolor
	560	Cut-throat	Amadina fasciata
	561	Pin-tailed Whydah	Vidua macroura
	562	Northern Paradise-Whydah	Vidua orientalis
	563	Oriole Finch	Linurgus olivaceus
	564	White-rumped Seedeater	Serinus leucopygius
	565	Yellow-fronted Canary	Serinus mozambicus
	566	Thick-billed Seedeater	Serinus burtoni
	567	Cinnamon-breasted Bunting	Emberiza tahapisi
	568	Cabanis' Bunting	Emberiza cabanisi

Cameroon Mammal Trip List

(Based on Kingdon 1997).

Preuss’ Red Colobus Piliocolobus preussi – Korup N.P. End. Less than 8000 survive.
Guereza Colobus Colobus guereza occidentalis. Ctrl. Africa lowland form. Benoue N.P.
Olive Baboon Papio anubis. Common, northern savanna.
Drill Mandrillus leucophaeus. Seen briefly by Shannon in Korup.
Patas Monkey Erythrocebus patas. Common around Waza N.P.
Tantalus Monkey Cercopithicus (aethiops) tantalus. Seen at Ngoundaba Ranch.
Red-eared Monkey Cercopithicus (c.) erythrotis. Korup N.P.
Senegal Galago Galago senegalensis. Widespread, Benoue N.P. & Ngoundaba.
Scrub Hare (cf Crawshay’s Hare) Lepus saxatilis crawshayi. Benoue & Ngoundaba.
Striped Ground Squirrel Euxerus erythropus. Seen near Waza N.P.
Zebra Mouse Lemniscomys sp. Seen in the Bakossi Mtns. Specific designation unsure.
Golden Jackal Canis aureus. Waza N.P.
Sand Fox Vulpes pallida. Small family group, just south of Waza.
White-tailed Mongoose Ichneumia albicauda. Ngoundaba.
Common Genet Genetta genetta. Benoue N.P.
African Civet Civettictis civetta. Ngoundaba Ranch.
African Wild Cat Felis sylvestris. Exceptionally pale. No red behind ears. Akin to Sand Cat.
Serval Felis serval. Seen at Ngoundaba Ranch.
Western Tree Hyrax Dendrohyrax dorsalis. Noisy at night in Korup.
African Elephant Loxodonta africana. Herd of 100 at Waza N.P.
Hippopotamus Hippopotamus amphibious. Benoue.
Warthog Phacochoerus africanus. Waza N.P
Water Chevrotain Hyemoschus aquaticus. Exceptionally rare! Seen by Christian at Korup.
Giraffe Giraffa camelopardalis. In hybrid zone btw G.c. peralta and G.c. cottoni. Waza N.P.
Bushbuck Tragelaphus scriptus. Benoue N.P.
Bush Duiker Sylvicapra grimmia. Common Benoue N.P.
Kob Kobus kob. Common Benoue N.P.
Red-fronted (Thomson’s) Gazelle Gazalla spekei. One Waza N.P.
Kongoni Alcelaphus buselaphus. Waza N.P.
Roan Antelope Hippotragus equines. Waza N.P.