ETHIOPIA

Birding the Roof of Africa

 

24 November – 22 December 2005

Leader: Christian Boix

Participants:

Josep del Hoyo, Jordi Sargatal and Dolors Buxo

 

 

Prince Ruspolis Turaco – Ethiopia´s top Royal treat

 

‘ It’s not only  that you are good and knowledgable in the field Christian!!… you have an uncanny magnetic sense for finding the harder species’ Josep del Hoyo, Dec 2005

 

 

 

 

 

Itinerary

 

November  24	Addis Ababa–Gefersa Reservoir–Mena Gesha Forest. Night in Addis
November  25	Addis Ababa–Solulta Plains-Debre Libanos. Night in Jemmu Valley
November  26	Jemmu Valley. Night in Jemmu Valley
November  27	Jemmu Valley-Debre Birhan-Ankober Escarpment. Night in Ankober
November  28	Ankober-Mhelka Gebdu- Afar plains. Night in Awash
November  29	Awash NP. Night at Bilen Lodge
November  30	Bilen Lodge-Awash NP-Nazret. Night at Langano
December  1	Langano Lake- Lake Ziway. Night in Wondo Genet
December  2	Wondo Genet. Night in Wondo Genet
December  3	Wondo Genet-Bale Mountain NP. Night in Dinsho
December  4	Dinsho-Robe-Sof Omar. Night at Ginir
December  5	Ginir – Wabi Shebele plains. Camped at Imi
December  6	Wabi Shebele plains. Camped at Imi
December  7	Imi-Ginir-Sof Omar. Camped at Sof Omar
December  8	Sof Omar-Robe. Night at Goba
December  9	Sannetti Plateau and Harrena Forest. Night at Goba
December  10	Goba- Sannetti Plateau-Harrena Forest-Genale Valley. Night in Negele
December  11	Liben Plains. Night in Negele
December  12	Negele- Wachile-Yabello.Night in Yabello
December 13	Yabello and surrrounds. Night in Yabello
December  14	Yabello-Konso-Woito-Turmi. Night in Turmi
December  15	Turmi-Fejeje. Camped at Fejeje
December  16	Fejeje- Lake Stephanie (Herbore) -Konso. Night at Konso
December  17	Konso- Arba Minch-Nechisar NP. Night at Arba Minch
December  18	Nechisar NP. Camped at Nechisar NP
December  19	Arba Minch-Awassa. Night in Awassa
December  20	Awassa. Night in Awassa
December  21	Awassa- Abjatta Shalla NP-Lake Ziway- Debre Zeit-Addis Ababa
December  22	Addis cultural visit and Debre Zeit - departure from Addis Ababa

 

Introduction

 

Ethiopia conjures in the minds of many, images of famine riddled refugee camps surrounded by hot, bleak, and dusty windswept plains. These images not only belong to the past but to a very unrepresentative patch of the Eritrean/ Ethiopian desert boundary in Northern Ethiopia. 

 

Ethiopia is a fascinating, thrilling and highly productive birding destination. The healthy combination of impressive forests, towering mountains and moist and arid savannas, laden with endemics and a rich assemblage of Palearctic migrants, intermingle to provide long species lists. Depending on whose taxonomy you follow there are at least 30 endemics. Sinclair & Ryan’s new treatment of Africa’s birds, however, suggest that the Ethiopian highlands region may hold up to 49 endemics, with another 100 species restricted to the North-east Arid Zone.

 

But perhaps one of the strongest draw cards of Ethiopia is that whilst holding a unique African avifauna, it is East Africa’s first port of call to many Palearctic migrant species. Thus for all birders, Ethiopia holds an intensely sexy bag of African lifers. Harming birds appears to be culturally unaccepted and the spin-offs uncanny. Birding Ziway Lake is almost frightening as you literally elbow your way past hordes of unperturbed Marabou Storks. Green Twinspots hop off your stride as you walk past them and large Greater Spotted Eagles watch you bemused as your approach ends up at the base of the very telephone pole they are perching on.

 

Ethiopia may not have large numbers of big and woolly ungulates that next door neighbours Uganda and Kenya hold, but what it lacks in quantity it makes for in quality as I am sure any “virgin” to seeing an Abyssinian Wolf, a Gelada Baboon, a male Nubian Ibex or a Gerenuk would confess.

 

Ethiopia is rural and archaically so, thus by definition poor and struggling. However it is by far the proudest, most culturally different, beautiful and fervently devout nation Africa has on offer. A confluence of tribes, rites, languages and religions…Ethiopia’s fertility is unquestionable.

 

In this tour we visited Juniper forests clinging off the Great Rift Valley, waded through tributaries of the Nile, searched the Hagenia Forests around Monasteries shrouded with tales of once bestowing the Holy Grail, cruised through Africa’s highest road, conquered Tullu Deemtu the roof of Africa,  traipsed through the Afar plains where “Lucy” many moons ago took her first upright baby steps, scoured the impressive lava flows below Fantalle Volcano, and birded ourselves to a stupor along the lush banks of a myriad Rift valley lakes.

 

Trip Report- Highlights

 

November 24^th Gefersa Reservoir and Mena Gesha Forest:  With a delicious yet violent aftertaste of Ethiopian coffee jolting through our systems we emerged into the car park of the hotel where bins were tested and focused on a few lifers such as Wattled Ibis, Abyssinian Siskin, Abyssinian Slaty Flycatcher, Dusky Turtle Dove, Fan-tailed Raven, Brown-rumped Seedeater and the simiens race of Groundscraper Thrush. Whilst weaving our way through traffic and the bustling market roads of Addis we added White-collared Pigeon (see photo below), Black-winged Lovebird, African Citril, Moorland Chat and Yellow-crowned Canary to the list. On arrival at Gefersa we were greeted by a very responsive pair of Abyssinian Catbirds, Mountain Thrush and a retreating African Black Duck with duckling in tow.

 

The first scans along the reservoir’s edge revealed good numbers of Red-knobbed Coot, Eurasian Teal, Spur-winged Plover, Ruff, Green Sandpiper and the sought after Blue-winged Goose, a few Hottentot Teal and colourful Northern Shovelers.  A leisurely walk around fringing cultivated lands and moorlands produced phenomenal numbers of Yellow Wagtails (of five different subspecies!!), the odd White Wagtail and equally obscene numbers of Red-throated Pipits and Thekla Lark. A smattering of Northern, Pied and Isabelline Wheatears flitted everywhere…including several pairs of the heavier looking and displaying Red-breasted Wheatears.  A pair of Abyssinian Longclaws stole our attention away from Josep who had been momentarily swallowed by a local drainage line but fortunately managed to keep all valuables above him and rescue himself as well.  We only found about his diving expedition a lot later when we approached him to enquire about his peculiar nude filming technique?

 

After a drip drying session in the weak sun, we continued our drive towards Mena Gesha stopping at several Acacia abyssinica forest patches racking up several good species such as Abyssinian Woodpecker (briefly), Grey-headed Woodpecker, Spotted Creeper, Brown Parisoma, Grey-headed Batis, Tacazze Sunbird, Rufous Wryneck, Ruppell’s Robin Chat and Greater Honeyguide.  The cultivated grasslands between forest patches produced Saker Falcon, Eurasian Hobby, Montagu Harrier, a stunning dark morph Augur Buzzard, Eurasian Hoopoe, Grey-backed Fiscal, Erlanger’s Lark, Red-rumped Swallow, Grey-rumped Swallow, Yellow-shouldered Widow, African Quailfinch and superb looking Ortolan Buntings.

We arrived at Mena Gesha with little time to spare and quickly set off on a circular route, soon halted by magnificent close up views of the local resident pair of Thick-billed Ravens  busy feeding on sheep scraps (see photo left). The walk was fairly quiet with the exception of Blue-breasted Bee-eaters, White-breasted White-eyes and mint views of Dark-headed Orioles.  Returning to the car we heard the high pings and screeches of parrots and all sundry scattered in search of a snag or a view point over the canopy… soon enough, the first Yellow-fronted Parrots were framed in and cracking scope views of this rather handsome and endemic psittacine were enjoyed by all.  As we were leaving, a bird party was met next to the road yielding an immaculate pair of White-backed Tits, Brown Woodland Warblers and a handsome pair of White-cheeked Turacos to cap the day. We returned to Addis admiring how the setting sun slowly inflamed the landscape and learning how Teff is cultivated, harvested and processed before indulging in our first meal of injera back at the hotel.

 

November 25^th Solulta Plains and Debre Libanos: Armed with knowledge and experience, the coffee was masterfully watered down to a drinkable dilution point and omelet’s ordered instead of bouncy bread and goopy jam. Satisfied and replete we bade farewell to the luxuries of Addis and headed north towards the Monastery of Debre Libanos across the Sululta Plains.  By far the most remarkable bird of the morning ought to be a single Red-chested Swallow which was foraging in a stream and kept flying up and down, allowing superb soaking views of this scarce species. Nonetheless, a lazy low flying adult Bearded Vulture kept on gate crashing the show.

 

A brief stop at an ephemeral wetland was remarkably productive adding  Black Crowned Crane, Greater Kestrel, Western Marsh Harrier, African Fish Eagle,  Eurasian Wigeon, Eurasian Teal, Northern Pintail, Common Snipe, over one hundred Black-tailed Godwit, huge numbers of Ruff, Common Redshank and Banded Martin to our burgeoning list. The sight was as memorable as the condition of this sighting, where one grapples to understand why Eurasian birds in Ethiopia condone our blatant and close up approach??? 

 

En route we stopped to clench a White-winged Cliff Chat (see photo right) that was calling from the roof of a derelict stone homestead. The Muketeri wetlands had little to offer and so we pressed on towards the Portuguese Bridge where, on arrival, we were instantly treated to a display of commuting raptors riding air gusts at the edge of the escarpment, these included Eurasian Honey Buzzard, Bearded Vulture, Egyptian Vulture, Rueppell´s Griffon, Tawny and Steppe Eagle and Lanner Falcon.  Flocks of Nyanza Swifts kettled their way upwards from down below and several flocks of White-billed Starlings were spotted moving from fruiting tree to fruiting tree.  The stream below the Portuguese bridge yielded Mountain Wagtail, Ruppell´s Black Chat and Mocking Cliff Chat.

 

A troop of 60+ Gelada Baboons seemed unperturbed as we approached their communal grazing gathering. We watched in awe how they carefully harvest handfuls of grass blades into the palm of their hands instead of biting them off and chewing them.  But what became rather humbling, was to become tuned into their constant communicative and fascinating mutterings, for Geladas are known to have the largest communication repertoire amongst primates. Birding in the forests above the monastery was unusually slow and trickling despite managing to get good views of Mountain Buzzard, Hemprich´s Hornbill, White-rumped Babbler, Northern Puffback, Little Rock Thrush, Broad-ringed White-eye, Garden Warbler, Wood Warbler, Grey Wagtail, Blackcap, loads of White cheeked Turacos and a breeding trio of Banded Barbets coming in to roost at a cavity.

 

With dusk upon us we headed for our overnight stop near the Jemmu Valley, stopping at Muketeri for a well deserved scrumptious supper and provisions for the following days. The night drive was surprisingly short and uneventful, but on arrival at our destination we were greeted with copious amounts of freshly brewed Honey wine which was just what was needed to brave the local toilets before hitting the sack.

 

November 26^th Jemmu Valley: Before dawn we were perched on one of the magnificent hillsides that command over the impressive Jemmu Valley.  Silent, alert and ready to bounce we waited impatiently for the slightest hiss, rustle or if possible crow of the near mythical Harwood’s Francolin. But the birds were not to co-operate this morning and soon hordes of Erckel’s Francolin woke up and monopolized the air waves with their much louder and persistent calls. Whilst Jordi and Josep listened below them, Christian climbed a bit further to the next ledge and immediately recognized the distinctive alarm hiss of a Harwood’s Francolin, grappling for steadiness he encircled and pushed the covey towards the ledge, which eventually flushed over the ledge right above where he had left Josep and Jordi listening, only to discover the latter had moved on in attempt to get closer to a nearby calling bird, thus missing the overflying covey. No more Harwood’s were seen this morning but other good birds spiced up the morning namely very handsome Erckel’s Francolins, African Hobby, Senegal Coucal, Blue Rock Thrush, Redbilled (Lineated) Pytilia, Citrine Wagtail, Singing Cisticola, Tree and Plain-backed Pipit, Red-collared Widowbird, Bush Petronia and several Abyssinian Black (see photo right) and Black-eared Wheatears.

 

Down by the river, heat had build up by know and activity was low, however birding at the river below the Tamarinds still yielded Brown Snake Eagle, Wahlberg’s Eagle, Shikra, over 20 Senegal Thick-knees, Hamerkop, Abyssinian Roller, Black-billed Barbet, African Pygmy and Giant Kingfisher, Wire-tailed Swallow, Lesser Blue Eared Starling, Speckle Fronted Weaver, Speke’s Weaver, Eastern Orphean Warbler, Northern Crombec, Cinnamon-breasted Bunting.

 

An afternoon return to the francolin site produced a fly by view of one Harwood’s Francolin, the fly by was close but light conditions were not the best, nonetheless our efforts had paid off and although better views would have been preferred everyone agreed that enough time had been devoted to the species. Copious portions of Tibes (spiced lamb shavings with onion) on injera and gallons of beer to swallow it all down were ingested for supper.  Our beds were gladly met by our weary feet, muscles and bodies after a day scrambling in the Jemmu.

 

November 27^th Jemmu Valley and Ankober Escarpment: Soon after dawn we dropped back into the Jemmu valley and birded one of the many tributaries bearing a bit of water for the remainder of the morning.  In the early hours massive flocks of Red-billed Queleas were clearly on the move, a distant flock of Chestnut-bellied Sandgrouse was spotted, two Fox Kestrels lazily made their way upstream, and species such as Cut-throat, African Silverbill, Speckle fronted Weaver, Black Bishop, Chestnut-crowned Sparrow-Weaver, Red-fronted Tinkerbird, Scarlet-chested Sunbird, Black-crowned Tchagra, Red-tailed Shrike, Common Redstart and Black-headed Batis attended the drinking pools. With an aim to reach Debre Birhan for lunch we left the Jemmu Valley fairly early and only stopped en route to film and enjoy selected sights, namely several fields replete with Eurasian Cranes, nearby perched raptors such as Tawny and Booted Eagles, a kettle of swifts that contained several Horus Swifts and some delightful rural scenes that effortlessly transported us to a medieval setting such as the plowing of fields using oxen and a roman plough, the stacks of cow dung around a homestead used either as fuel or thermal insulation, the logics governing the making of a grain hay stack, watching a family and their stock milling in circles over their harvest as they crushed and separate the grain from the hay, etc…

 

After a brief stop at Debre Birhan to stock up on basics and make some phone calls we set off to try several spots along the Ankober escarpment for the rare and elusive Ankober Serin, but as it turned out, we were extremely lucky and on arrival to the first stakeout we hit the jackpot!! With a flock of well over 300 birds busy feeding and gritting we were treated to an unprecedented chance for video, photography and soggy soaking views of this otherwise tricky endemic (see photo left)

 

The rest of the afternoon was spent leisurely following the flock and enjoying cracking views of species such as Verreaux’s Eagles scouring the ridge in search of hyraxes…and making ominous eye contact as they flew past. A very welcome Levant Sparrowhawk over our heads as we were lying down and several Eurasian Crag Martins playing in the updrafts of the cliff. The late drive to Ankober did not produce any owls, but did produce a fantastically good looking Caracal.  We stayed at King Meneliks refurbished  palace, which heralds a fantastic setting….but one we discovered needs to be merited by a long and arduous walk up a never ending rather steep hill.

 

November 28^th Mhelka Gubda and Afar Plains: With the Serin under the belt, a Cinnamon Bracken Warbler before breakfast and the lure of far birdier dryer savannas below, containment was poor and soon after wolfing down our breakfast we were pushing our way past Camels and birding the highly productive scrub around Mhelka Gebdu.  The first target succumbed remarkably easy as Christian set his scope on a flock of feeding Yellow-throated Serin, saving us the long hike to Mount Fantalle, the only other site known for this species.  Soon enough the second serin target of the morning, Yellow-rumped Seed-eater, rendered itself and offered very decent views.  Birding the cultivated banks on either sides of the stream we managed to latch onto Black-billed Wood dove, Bare-faced Go-away Bird, Eastern Plantain-eater, Green Wood-hoopoe, White-headed Buffalo Weaver, Clapperton’s Francolin, Greater Whitethroat, Half-collared Kingfisher, Black Stork, and a stunning melanistic Gabar Goshawk.

 

Further down the road a Slate-colored Boubou and its grating calls pulled us out of the car and provided grand views…bird traffic lured us towards some great scrub near a recently harvested field where the first two whammy seedeaters I landed my bins on were Yellow-crowned Canary and Chestnut Sparrow, followed by N. Red-billed Hornbill, E. Yellow-billed Hornbill, Black Scimitarbill, White-browed Scrub Robin, Gray Wren Warbler, Rueppell´s Glossy Starling and further ahead Green-backed Pytilia, Violet backed Sunbird, Purple Grenadier, White-bellied Go-away Bird, White-winged Black Tit, Superb Starling (see photo right)and Orange-bellied Parrot.

 

Lunch under some Acacia tortilis allowed us to lure in some nearby calling targets like Black-throated Barbet, Yellow-fronted Tinkerbird, Shining Sunbird and Von der Decken’s Hornbill…but I had nothing to do with the Mouse-coloured Penduline Tit flock. We were chuffed to note the time as we drove past the last settlement before the Afar plains, knowing we had ample time to attempt the crossing, everyone agreed the road ahead was clear and dry and most of the Afar had moved closer to water and mostly off the plains. Our first stop was triggered by a dainty Pygmy Falcon that posed for the camera. A flock of Black-billed Woodhoopes that flew across the road dragged us into the bush where we soon intercepted them as well as several Abyssinian Scimitarbill as well.  An overflying Yellow-billed Stork came as a bit of a surprise but less so than the lonely Lesser Spotted Eagle and Short-toed Snake Eagle above our heads. Wild Somali Ostrich strutted off our path as we tore down the track towards Fantalle volcano, several Buff-crested Bustards were spotted and eventually one that was close enough was circled and walked in for Josep and Jordi to film and enjoy.

Not far from the first volcanic outcrops we started encountering Arabian Bustards (see photo right), the first one atop a volcanic ridge, tickable but in a hurry, the second one bursting off the side of the road because we were unable to slow down fast enough, and the third one was relaxed enough to allow me to walk it in towards Josep and Jordi who enjoyed immensely and videoed this magnificent species. Not far from here a group of 6 Lappet-faced Vultures were surprised feeding on a carcass. In the afternoon we made time to bird some of the dense Acacia forests and teased out a few goodies such as Eurasian Turtle Dove, African Collared Dove, Blue-naped Mousebird, Nubian Woodpecker, Thrush Nightingale and Nightingale, Olive-tree Warbler, Rufous Chatterer, Masked Shrike, Southern Grey Shrike, Black-headed Lapwing and Lichtenstein’s Sandgrouse …and you always leave feeling there is so much more that creeps and flits in those lovely thickets and dense canopies. On arrival at Awash we feasted on a king size meal of roasted chicken and chips and headed for our tranquil hotel in the outskirts where after gloating on our birding successes we slumbered effortlessly

 

November 29^th Awash NP – Bilen Lodge: Driving towards Metahara we stopped briefly to admire some Beisa Oryx and Soemmering´s Gazelle that were grazing near the road, whilst stopped here an Eastern Paradise Whydah flew in and posed for a short while.  A few kilometers down the we setup a Hyena carcass for the Vultures, attendance was good with Griffons, White-backed’s, Egyptian’s and Hooded Vultures lining up for the feast, Tawny and Lesser Spotted Eagles where also expectant and a curious Bateleur was circling above, but there was no rush on their side to see us put distance between us and the carcass, and indeed we eventually left. At Lake not much of note other than Pink-backed Pelicans, Grey-headed Gulls, and Greater Flamingoes in the distance, our main quarry was however not to be sought on water but on the sterile young lava fields surrounding the lake. It took two painful hours to locate the first individual of Sombre Rock Chat and an extra half an hour to film it and convince ourselves it was not an aberrant Blackstart. Fortunately we had filmed and observed a typical behaving Blackstart early in the morning. The afternoon was spent in Awash NP, where we concentrated our birding along the cooler thickets of the Awash River and the vast grasslands. Fires and grazing had changed considerably my memory of these grasslands and larks had become remarkably absent. In fact the park was pretty busy with Afar herds, herders and their characteristic unwelcoming nature. Nonetheless we still managed to score some pretty good looking Kori and White-bellied Bustards, several Gillett’s Larks, good looking Somali Fiscals, several active nests of Rosy-patched Bushshrikes, a Woodchat Shrike, Ashy Cisticolas, a mob of Red-fronted Warblers and the characterful Grey Wren Warbler. We retreated to the riverine thickets for lunch but these did not yield much other than Grey Flycatcher, Brown-throated Wattle-eye, Rueppell´s Weaver, Common Nightingale and a persistent troop of Vervet Monkeys (C.a. pygererythrus) determined to steal our picnic.

 

Outside the park en route to Bilen Lodge we came across a Greater Spotted Eagle perched next to the road, which again allowed for uncanny, close and top views of this good looking raptor. Nightjaring on foot near Bilen lodge became rather unnerving as a large pack of Spotted Hyenas approached us whilst spotlighting on foot.  As the batteries dimmed on us so did our intentions to continue birding, but not before scoring a White-tailed Mongoose to cap the day.

 

November 30^th Awash NP- Langano: An early pre-breakfast walk around the lodge produced a few good birds such as stumbling onto several Slender-tailed Nightjars roosting in the periphery of camp. A stunning male Pallid Harrier at the marsh below and an unexpected Jack Snipe that flushed from Christian’s feet. Alarm shrieks lured us onto a Gabar Goshawk that had caught a Yellow-breasted Barbet other sightings around camp included Upcher´s Warbler, Red-fronted Barbet, White-browed Coucal and African Pygmy Kingfisher. En route back to Awash we came across an alarmed Foxy Cisticola trying to chase out an Egyptian Mongoose. Nearby our first Swallow-tailed Kite was effortlessly spotted flying and feasting on a lizard and enjoyed by all and the first of many Somali Crows as well. Our first Gerenuks of the trip were spotted and thoroughly enjoyed as were several pairs of Salt’s Dik-dik.

 

On the main road to Djibouti we stopped near several goat carcasses that had been mauled by a truck and gathered a large number of vultures. We tore off the carcasses from the tar and laid them in a nearby field to avoid trucks tearing through tummy filled sluggish vultures later on the day. A Side-striped Jackal waltzed in for a bite. A quick attempt to find some larks in Awash NP before leaving for Langano produced Rufous Scrub Robin and Boran Cisticola, but no other birds worth of mention. A brief stop at a lake was rewarded with a few additions such as Little Ringed Plover, Marsh Sandpiper and Gull-billed Tern. The remainder of the afternoon was used to cover the distance between Awash and Langano which we reached in the dark.  We hauled a spotlight out and after several Starck’s Hare sightings we picked up a faint red shine, we approached it hoping it would be a Nightjar but it turned out to be an Aardvark pair coming in and out of its burrow and eventually strutting away right in front of us…elation reigned all over.  More Slender-tailed Nightjars were found and photographed and two Bat-eared Foxes capped our spotlighting endeavor.

 

December 1^st Langano - Lake Ziway and Wondo Genet: Dawn at the ridge allowed us to crack the whereabouts of a Freckled Nightjar, but no funky looking Cliff Swallows were spotted. We birded the hotel grounds extensively as the placid conditions here allowed Josep to approach and film birds at will and utter ease. Each tree in the garden was crawling with Palearctic Warblers and other goodies, most of which we had seen already yet the unbeatable relaxed views offered here were hard to pass. Eventually we wandered off into thicker scrub and rounded up a bag of new additions to the list such as Verreaux’s Eagle Owl, Sulphur-breasted Bushshrike, Mosque Swallow, Red-faced Crombec, Black Redstart, White-bellied Canary, Reichenow´s Seedeater and Red-rumped Waxbill. At a nearby hotel we located a magnificently sedate Grayish Eagle Owl (see photo left) roosting in full open view and cracking views of Grey-headed Bushshrike.

 

We backtracked towards Lake Ziway where we spent most of noon glued to our scopes relentlessly teasing new trip species, lifers and great videos. The jetty was as always well attended by a large flock of Marabou Storks that will push past you on sight of any fresh scraps, the flooded grasslands were full of Black Egrets umbrella-fishing, and motionless Squacco Herons, a single Saddle-billed Stork juvenile, industrious African Spoonbills, ever alert Comb Duck, several groups of the dazzling African Pygmy Goose, Southern Pochard, a Red-chested Fluftail calling from the reeds, the gorgeous looking albeit common Black Crake,  several Lesser Jacanas- a much needed lifer by most, flocks of Collared Pratincole, Temminck´s Stint, Lesser Black-backed Gull Heuglin’s Gull, the large and impressive Great Black-headed Gull, Black-headed Gull, Caspian, Common, Whiskered, Whitewinged and superb Black Terns, and stunning flocks of Northern Carmine Bee-eaters.

 

In the afternoon a number of warblers emerged from the reed beds and flitted about on rising clouds of mozzies…several Great Reeds, Eurasian Sedge Warblers and glimpses of Eurasian Reed/Marsh warblers were present, but our surprise climaxed when after some chasing and playback efforts a Basra Reed Warbler hopped out and perched several times on a leaning reed to preen and drink, in relatively good light, clear view and barely 5m away. We were having such a ball that leaving this place was only achieved on condition to return back on our way back to Addis at the end of the trip and with an enticing change of plan to head straight for Wondo Genet rather than Awassa. We reached Wondo Genet in the dark, had supper and went to bed lulled by a calling Wood Owl.

 

December 2^nd Wondo Genet: The excitement to try a new habitat, namely Hagenia and Juniper forest and its entourage of specials was palpable and undelayed.  Above the hotel a Rufous-chested Sparrowhawk was seen soaring and Silvery-cheeked Hornbills fed noisily on nearby fig trees. Our first target of the morning, Abyssinian Ground Thrush, was soon bagged along forest tracks.  A stunning pair of Narina Trogons complied to Joseps videoing requests. More Yellow-fronted Parrots, Brown Saw-wings, dainty Blue spotted Wood doves, Black and White Mannikins and Fawn-breasted Waxbills were seen near the hot springs and old quarry. 

 

After breakfast we hiked up to higher reaches where deciduous and indigenous Hagenia forests abound. On arrival we latched on to a double whammy Cuckoo-shrike bonanza Grey and Red-shouldered. Tambourine and Lemon Dove were traipsing ahead of us on the path. Small bird parties containing Spotted Creeper, Broad-ringed White-eyes, Abyssinian Flycatcher, Cardinal Woodpeckers and Grey Woodpeckers  kept us busy, as we scanned for the smaller and easier to miss Abyssinian Woodpecker.  We teased from thickets several Abyssinian Hill Babblers and got lucky with a flock of Sharpe’s Starlings feeding below the trail.

 

Troops of Guereza Colobus, support the diet of Crowned Hawk Eagles in this area, and these were easily enticed to the wing by crying out their repetitive call.  Another worthy sighting for the morning was an adult Ayre´s Hawk Eagle soaring above the forest. At the end of the trail we called up a Double-toothed Barbet and Scaly Francolins scurried and called in the undergrowth but never showed themselves. Joseps’ videoing persistence with the barbet paid off as he locked onto the soft tappings of what turned out to be the best bird of the day…an adult male Abyssinian Woodpecker carving out its nest. Unbeatable scope views and video footage were obtained and we all left the mountain well satisfied. Having seen pretty much everything we hoped to see here, we indulged on a lazy afternoon at the thermal pools/baths below the hotel.  Supper was early in preparation of the following days’ long drive.

 

December 3^rd Wondo Genet – Bale Mountains NP: The day started with a stunning Black Sparrowhawk perched on a tree outside Wondo Genet.  Several stops en route to try for Abyssinian Long eared Owl proved fruitless. Compound harvesters were at work throughout the plateau, many Montagu’s Harriers, one Saker Falcon and flocks of European Bee-eaters were seen throughout the drive. The only morning highlight was a flushed home-less Common Quail which managed to scurry and melt into an eye of unharvested wheat. As we climbed the last reaches of the plateau through impressively old and mature Juniper woodlands the welcoming contour of the Bale highlands became our horizon. Whilst having our lunch with the obligate mob of herding children, Solomon managed to entice some to tell us about the birds in the area, as it turned out the ledge we had chosen to picnic at hid two Cape Eagle Owls barely 5m away from where we were eating. Two, possibly three, black slender billed crows were seen flying in the distance, these were most likely Red-billed Choughs, but were not called out thinking we would see more and because we were busy videoing the perched owl.

We spent most of the afternoon traipsing through the moorland flats at the entrance of Bale Mountains NP.  A small wetland held good numbers of Blue-winged Goose (see photo left) which in the soft afternoon light looked stunning. The reeds around the wetland held Rufous-winged Cisticola and flocks of Abyssinian Siskin coming in to drink, a pair of Abyssinian Longclaws scoured the grassy tussocks in search of anything to tuck into, whilst a flock of about 50 Spot-breasted Lapwing fed on the surrounding cropped grass plains.  Approaching them was not easy and took it took Josep a fair while to get them used to him, but the approach paid off and he got his footage and the trips first sighting of Golden Eagle. 

 

Not far from here Jordi and I feasted our eyes on a relaxed herd of 50 strong Mountain Nyala grazing placidly, with a strong looking adult male chasing a female which was very obviously in oestrous.  Several kneeled Warthogs were feeding across the plain, Bohor Reedbuck as well and a few stunning Meneliks Bushbuck were seen on the higher slopes. Josep and Solomon caught the first sight of a loping Simien Fox through the meadows whilst Jordi and myself instead watched the wanderings and meanderings of a Golden Jackal through the plains as it scared off scurrying Grooved Tooth, and, Giant Root Rats.

 

Walking and scanning the roadside tenaciously we eventually cracked both targeted francolins in the area, first the large and bulky Chestnut-naped and next the smaller and delicately marked Moorland Francolin. At one point, 6 Rouget’s Rails were seen feeding on the wide open stretch of road ahead of us (see photo right), living up to their shy-less reputation. The day ended up surprisingly with the nicest tibes supper I recall in Ethiopia and loads of warm and comforting Cinnamon and clove tea before we headed for the nearby Dinsho headquarters to spend the night. 

 

December 4^th Dinsho and Sof Omar: We awoke in a rather different thermal environment to what we had been experiencing thus far, an icy breeze, crisp, clean, cold skies and freezing wet dew all over the place. During a brisk walk we came across the usual Dinsho specials Abyssinian Catbird, Cinnamon Bracken Warbler, White-backed Black Tit, Stout Cisticola and another Mountain Buzzard. A humongous flock of Wattled Ibis forced us to stop and admire these smart looking species again.  We grabbed breakfast in Goba, where we had the chance to chat to some USAid engineers that had driven from Imi and were loaded with useful and fresh gen for the areas we were hoping to reach. Loaded with food and fuel we headed without delay towards Sof Omar, where we would spend the remainder of the day birding.  En route we enjoyed superb views of a Black-breasted Snake Eagle sunning on top of a fig tree, and a pair of Bristle-crowned Starlings attending a cattle herd.

 

By the time we reached Sof Omar it was already warm, nonetheless it was unusually green and the valley lingered cool for most of the mornings remainder. The first clear Somali or Dodson’s Bulbul were spotted and enjoyed, a very cooperative Somali Tit was called in and gave Josep ample chance to film it and enjoy it. Further along the valley we came across a flock of Crimson-rumped Waxbill feeding on some flowering asters, but as we were watching them, a short and fleeting glimpse of a Serin taking off and leaving us for good left us feeling rather hollow, a prolonged stay yielded no further views of the serin but added Northern Brownbul and Brown-tailed Chat to our list. We birded adjacent areas and picked up other new species for the trip such as Mottled Swift, Rufous-crowned Roller, Red-headed Weaver, White Helmetshrike and Black-headed Oriole.  A second visit to the flowering asters was well rewarded with a flock of 10 Salvadori´s Serin (see photo right) feeding placidly 2-3m away from us and allowing for top and prolonged views of this smart looking seed eater. With a few hours of daylight to spare we headed towards Ginir our overnight town, but were terribly delayed by a series of time consuming sightings along the way, namely, Chestnut Weaver, East Chanting Goshawk, Red and Yellow Barbet, Six gob smacking beautiful and close Golden-breasted Starlings and a glowing flock of Vulturine Guineafowl. At Ginir we found very cozy and clean accommodation at the local school residence and the normal standard menu, a lively bar lady, cold beer and the excitement of starting an exploratory recce of an area that has been very poorly birded to date, the Wabi Shebele IBA.

 

December 5^th Ginir – Imi : Leaving Ginir a troop of Hammadryas Baboons and a large flock of Red-winged Starlings made us stop, and on closer examination found a few smaller and slender very welcome Somali Starlings. Several good looking Rufous-tailed Rock Thrushes got us out of the car and we subsequently got drawn to the haunting calls of Grey-headed Bushshrike nearby which Christian whistled out into full view for Josep to film for posterity.  A stop to film a colony of Black-capped Social Weaver got us onto a very complacent D’Arnauds Barbet. The long and bumpy road to Imi was not very exciting albeit spiced by large caravans of good looking camels and colorful dressed Somali refugees. The few obligate stops needed to alleviate ourselves generated Pygmy Batis, a flock of resting Scaly Chattterer, an aberrant form of White-bellied Canary and our first Somali Crombec.

 

A stop to video Abyssinian Ground Hornbills, drew our attention to a flock of seedeaters feeding at the edge of the same a field, on approach we discovered that the ground was crawling with fine looking Straw-tailed Whydahs, two unexpected yet very welcome additions to the feeding flock were a stonkingly good looking adult male Northern Grosbeak Canary and the colorful Somali Bunting (see photo right). The place was a hub of activity and we scored excellent views of many species we had already seen but were glad to see again, nonetheless, by the time we had lunch we had added another three new species to the list, Three-streaked Tchagra, African Bare-eyed Thrush and Red-backed Scrub Robin. The afternoon drive was hasted up slightly by deceasing light conditions, this was a pity because we did cross several well wooded wadis that looked mighty productive, but the option of driving at night was not alluring at all. 

 

Nonetheless we scored superb views of an adult trio of Egyptian Vultures perched, a pair African Hawk Eagles enjoying the last rays of lights, a busy flock of Somali Coursers and several flocks of the strange looking White-crowned Starling. We got into Imi a few minutes after dark and were warmly welcomed to camp inside the military base. A jovial meal at a nearby restaurant ensued and provided some lively chat with the locals, which allowed us to identify a character that seemed to know the area well enough and claimed to know what a Bustard looks like and where to go looking for them…Heuglin’s and Little Brown that is.  As it turned out he only really knew the area and not much else.

 

December 6^th Wabi Shebele Plains : A windy and rather uncomfortable night helped us get off bed the following morning, birding in the military provided a sought out lifer, Parrot-billed Sparrow which most of us needed as well as the best opportunities to film and photograph White-crowned Starlings and Chestnut Weavers. Without delay we set-off in search of bustards, but a whole morning walking, yielded but four Buff-crested Bustards and perhaps a far off Heuglin’s calling.  The first good find for the morning was a full breeding color Hunter’s Sunbird at a derelict settlement.  Some more Somali Coursers got us out of the car and stumble upon a cryptic Double-banded Courser and further on a grand looking pair of Black-faced Sandgrouse. Traffic towards a water-filled pan got us better views of Chestnut-bellied Sandgrouse, Chestnut-headed Sparrow-lark and mixed flocks of Cut-throat Finch and Silverbill.  Nearby we spotted a very obliging pair of Taita Fiscals.

The rest of the morning was spent walking some scrub where densities where relatively low but held a bag of highly desirable species which we indulged on looking and enjoying for long periods of time, namely, a flock of Somali Bee-eaters (see photo left), several more Somali Crombec, and two pairs of Yellow-vented Eremomelas. The afternoon was devoted to track down Whitewinged Collared Dove, which proved to be fairly easy near the river, and in no time we had enjoyed half a dozen of them. A Giant Eagle Owl spiced up the afternoon and after a Gillett’s Lark we called it a day.

 

December 7^th Imi – Sof Omar: Today was very much a traveling day and our main concern was to get back to Sof Omar in time to set up camp to spend the night.  En route, we came across some additions, such as an immature Martial Eagle and a roosting Spotted Thick-knee, very close looks of Black-faced Sandgrouse and pretty much the same species bag we had seen coming down and staying at Imi. The campsite at Sof Omar did yield two owls, African Scops and Pearl-spotted Owl before we went to bed.

 

December 8^th Sof Omar – Goba : This day was treated pretty much as a rest day, we all swam and refreshed ourselves at the Sof Omar river, watched the locals load their donkeys with water and the ladies cackle whilst laundering clothes and washing their babies. Sof Omar’s setting and ruralness is remarkable and unforgettable and in many ways epitomizes my understanding of life in most of Ethiopia, so sitting in a rock and watching life tick by the river felt unbelievably good to all of us.  Bristle-crowned Starlings fed busily at a large fig above the caves entrance, whilst a peculiar looking morph of Rock Hyrax sunned in the rocks below it.  Before we left we located another flock of Salvadori´s Serin not far from the first flock had been found a few days before.

 

The drive back to Goba brought no additions to the trip list, everyone was glad to get back to the hotel grab a warm shower, have a decent meal and do the list.  After supper we drove around and managed to locate a few calling Montane Nightjars which did not took long to track down and enjoy good looks of. A funny calling Wood Owl turned out to be just that…not a Long Eared as I would have liked to.

 

December 9^th Sannetti Plateau and Harrena Forest: Today was Jordi’s last day with us, and his last chance to see Simien Fox. The climb up the plateau offered several close up views at a suite of species we had already enjoyed  such as Rouget’s Rail, Chestnut-naped Francolin and Moorland Francolin.  The open water eyes on the grey mossy moorlands were attended by flocks of Pintail Duck and Blue-winged Goose.  Persistent scanning produced a distant pair of Wattled Cranes, which were carefully approached and peacefully enjoyed as they went about their feeding unperturbed by our presence.

 

As we resumed driving, the first Simien Fox of the day made its appearance, Jordi soaked in every move and could hardly contain his excitement as we all watched in awe every step and move of this good looking canid. Indeed, there is a characteristic magic attached to observing this large and bouncy canid, lope through the moorlands, stopping and wheeling around with its nose stuck to a burrow and watch its ears at work after mice and moles... Simien Foxes are without a doubt a trademark of Ethiopia, and luck was on our side as this one turned out to be the first of six we were about to seen this day.

 

The crossing of the Plateau is always spectacular and just as good... is dipping into the lush and magnificent Harrena Forest. By stopping and playing at selected spots along the road as we descended the plateau we finally enticed a Singing Cisticola into view. The first Juniper woodlands were humming with warbler parties and in no time we managed to bag several E. Bonelli´s Warbler, Brown Woodland Warbler, Blackcaps, Chiffchaffs, Dusky Flycatcher, more White-backed Tits and yet again grand views of Abyssinian Woodpecker, this time feeding at eye level. A clicking African Goshawk circled above us.

 

Last years GPS reading proved critical to sight our next target, Abyssinian Crimsonwing which took a quick recovery of purpose and composure, after we had been arrested by a noisy and immaculate troop of Guereza Colobus leaping between trees. The crimsonwings flitted through dense undergrowth but at one stage started foraging on a set of tree creepers, in full view for all to enjoy.

 

Our return to Goba was rewarded with close up views of Ruddy Shelduck, several Simien Foxes on the trot and a stunning Starck’s Hare hunched up next to the road, which is believed to be an ice-age isolate of Eurasian Hare.  Lunch at Tullu Demptu, the highest peak in Bale, not only provided breath-taking scenery but also good views of Bearded Vultures and Greater Spotted Eagles soaring by. Leaving the plateau we came across so many Simien Foxes, it literally felts as if we were being escorted out.  Back at the hotel, Dolors (Joseps wife) joined us and together we all bid farewell to Jordi who the following morning would start his return home.

 

December 10^th Sannetti Plateau – Harrena Forest – Genale valley - Negele: It did not take long to become fully aware of which day it was today…this day often is the one most guides fantasize or dread, the first chance at Prince Ruspolis Turaco a critical iconic species no one wants to consider missing. The pressure to locate and show Simien Fox to Dolors was also back a second day in a row, but we were lucky AGAIN and within minutes of reaching the Plateau we bumped into a good looking male warming up in the sun (see photo below).  A total tally of eight individuals ensued, including a pack of four pups and sub-adults playing and rolling about in the grass.

On entering the Harrena Forest our first flock of Slender-billed Starlings flew over us and perched on a Hagenia nearby, the light was bad for filming but the scopes revealed all that was necessary to tick this slim looking starling.  A water point next to the road turned out to be rather entertaining as we watched a large troop of Olive Baboons come down to drink and watched the dominant male strut proudly the edge of the water. A Lesser Kudu, Common Duiker and a Bushbuck came into drink as we watched.

 

During lunch we were drawn towards a moving flock of Golden-breasted Starlings and whilst trying to get improved video footage found a few Shelley’s Starling amongst them. Other interesting birds in the vicinity included Red and Yellow Barbet, Croaking Cisticola, Village Indigobird, and spotted on the following driving leg Long-legged Buzzard and Brown Snake Eagle. At the top of the Genale Valley we walked a few good looking streams in search of Prince Ruspolis Turaco but could not find any fruiting trees or birds moving, a small troop of pale looking Vervet monkeys turned out to be Christian’s first ever sighting of Grivets Monkey (C.a. aethiops).

 

Not far from here Solomon slowed down and pointed out a fruiting fig tree where he had last seen a Turaco over a year ago…as we all looked towards the tree, we all immediately locked onto a familiar green moving shape within the tree and pandemonium broke loose as everyone tried to burst out the car as quickly as possible. Right above our heads, barely four meters  up, a pair of Prince Ruspolis Turacos gorged themselves in figs unperturbed by our comical behavior, watching how a battery of scopes, digital cameras, bins, video cameras and the obligatory mob of local kids gathered below and trained all their attention towards them.  Nothing seemed to worry the birds which preened, sunned, fed, chased each other, perched motionless digesting and posed elegantly on every conceivable posture, allowing them to be photographed at will. I personally still struggle to believe our luck, how better looking it was than the illustration and again how placid and confidingly it behaved.  Before the birds flew off to a nearby fig, we were further treated to a mating display by pair of Grey Kestrels (see photo below)and a pair of loud calling Spotted Palm Thrushes seemingly willing to impress the crowd.

 

Nothing new was added in the twilight as we approached Genale, the long driving day had turned up some fantastically juicy rewards, supper was well utilized to take stock of what had been seen thus far, what was still needed and decide how worth would be to devote two traveling days and one birding day for Degodi Lark ( since we had pretty much cleaned up on all other potential species on offer in Bogol Manyo) the decision was unanimous, skip the lark and use the time thrashing for Heuglin’s Bustard in Fejeje.

 

December 11^th Liben Plains : In the early morning we headed out to the Liben Plains in search of the Endangered Sidamo Lark, a congener to South Africa’s Rudd’s Lark, and another quasi mythical milestones of any Ethiopian birding trip. En route to the plains we stopped briefly to check some seed-eaters which turned out to be Reichard´s Seed-eaters and before we got back into the car a pair of Temminck´s Coursers. Not far from here at a very large fruiting Fig-tree we spotted Bruce’s Green Pigeon feeding, and on approach found one nesting.

 

At the Liben plains the wind was blowing hard, making it very hard to identify anything flushed, as it would get catapulted away from us within seconds, nonetheless a few brave Zitting Cisticolas, Pectoral-patch Cisticola managed to cling on to the grassy perches long enough to be identified. Likewise several Plain-backed Pipits….but no signs of any larks yet.  Whilst changing fields we cut across some settlements, the thorny corals made of scrubby acacia bushes, offered protection to several Shelley’s Rufous Sparrow nesting pairs.

 

As the morning progressed the wind died down slightly, large flocks of Lesser Kestrel, several Pallid and Montagu’s Harriers and one lonely White-headed Vulture scouted the grasslands as we moved a line of people through the grassland. Eventually after a few kilometers of fruitless walking, Christian spotted a Heteromirafra looking bird scurrying ahead of him, alas….after two short flights and a half hearted retreat attempt, this Sidamo Lark  found a shadowy tussock, hunkered itself down and allowed us to savor it and the moment in all its glory (see photo above).

With Negele so close we returned for lunch and came back to the plains in the afternoon, the first bird to meet us at the plains was a male Hartlaub’s Bustard, a bird that had somewhat avoided us in Awash. We enjoyed watching the bird play hide and seek in the tall grass and literally melt into oblivion in front of us. A large flock of Somali Short-toed Larks kept Josep busy for most of the afternoon, and his patient approach rewarded him with what most certainly must be the world best study documentary on the species.  Leaving the field where the short-toeds where we flushed two Foxy Larks as well.

 

We were drawn towards a water pan teeming with waterfowl where we teased out a few additions such as Tufted Duck and Curlew Sandpiper. It was however mesmerizing to watch how the soft light bounced off the water, birds, water fetching woman and their clay pots and dusty herds of cattle coming in to drink. Nightjaring on the way back was thwarted by the wind again, so we gave up on the idea and headed back for supper.

 

December 12^th Negele –Yabello : The drive through to Yabello was slow and bumpy, but fortunately through very stunning countryside, hilly, covered in good bush, not so populated and relatively deserted and dotted with radiant Coral trees in bloom.  Several Salt’s and our first Guenther’s Dik- Diks were seen along the road, as well as bulleting Unstriped Ground Squirrels crossing the tracks. A short walk along the banks of the river yielded the two best birds of the morning a pair of Short-billed Crombec and a stunning Black-bellied Sunbird male.  Christian who reached the Juba Weaver colony, sadly was not active, got a sighting of a Green-backed Eremomela.

 

Closer to Yabello we spent some time thrashing about some good looking bush and after a bit of spishing and whistling owl imitations we managed to concentrate a respectable mob that contained some very delectable additions such as Banded Parisoma, Pringle´s Puffback and Pale Flycatcher. Pale Prinia was easily snatched closer to the road and in some barren fields, mixed amongst large flocks of Dark-capped Social Weavers we got our first views of Grey-headed Social Weaver. Our first White-tailed Swallow stakeout produced a single very far and flying individual which no one was prepared to tick, but were somewhat rewarded by a close flock of feeding Northern Whitebellied Bustards.

 

The day ended on a high note as we spent wrapped up the drive, with Yabello on sight and a group of Stress man’s Bush-crows perched next to the road, with their bizarre entourage of Splendid Starlings, most atypical vocalizations and  hundreds of their double storey nests dotted throughout.  The light was dying on us but a plan was made to come back to the site and spend some long quality time with them if the swallows were kind to us and allowed us to take the afternoon free.

 

December 13^th Yabello Plains: The swallows were not just kind; they were prompt, timely and highly rewarding. After some searching around Yabello in likely habitat we drove south towards the town of Mega where a wealth of stakeouts is known to dot the town. However senses where sharpened as a funny looking pair of swallows were seen briefly fly around the mosque at Dubluk.  Shortly after a pair was seen flying next to the car, scouting a drainage line, possibly in search of a suitable nesting site.  The birds were fast and easily disappeared from sight, and return in a blink.  They appeared particularly interested on an Aardvark burrow at the base of a termite hill, and a nearby wire provided the perfect perch for our filming and photographing efforts. 

 

Before parting the area we spotted a Secretarybird, and not far from here at some well grazed grassland we lucked onto a single Collared Lark and a large flock of Short-tailed Lark, unfortunately Josep’s camera packed up without warning. So feeling the heat and the frustration we returned to Dubluk, grabbed some lunch and headed back to Yabello to fetch Josep’s back-up camera. The afternoon was spent as planned walking with several flocks of Stresseman’s Bush Crows, and indeed the experience was well worth it as we had a chance to film, photograph and document some fascinating interactions and feeding techniques (see photo right).  The only other bird worth mentioning would be a small flock of Grey-headed Silverbills.

 

Our time with the bush crows flew by, unlike Solomon’s who took it upon himself to distract a half-nut local which was determined to follow us and spoil our filming efforts. By the time we got back, Solomon was truly at the edge of a manic-depression and ready to throttle the local chatter-box.  But he spared him…and instead we all went to some nearby plains and waited for night to settle. Armed with spotlights we racked up a few nightjars as we drove back to Yabello. First, the drab and never more aptly named Plain Nightjar wh