ETHIOPIA Birding the Roof of Africa A Tropical Birding Custom Tour 2 March – 25 March 2008 Leader: Ken Behrens All photos by Ken Behrens |
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| Itinerary: March 1 Addis Ababa – Gefersa Reservoir – Lake Chelelaka.
Night
in Addis. |
Introduction
Ethiopia is a beautiful country with a proud history. Although most of the people engage in subsistence agriculture, the country is far from the dust-blown land of famine in the Western stereotype. Ethiopia boasts some of Africa’s tallest mountains, lush highland forests, vast agricultural uplands, the epic rift valley and its tremendous lakes, and vast savannas. Ethiopia lies at a crossroads of avian biodiversity. It holds at least 30 endemics, and possibly as many as 49, depending of what taxonomy you use. Ethiopia is also part of Africa’s northeast arid zone, and supports 100 species restricted to this area of endemism. Dozens of north African and east African species come into contact in Ethiopia and nowhere else. At least 850 species have been recorded in the country, and this list is sure to grow, particularly if more observers visit the remote frontiers of this vast country. Although it lacks some of the mammalian megafauna of its southern neighbors, Ethiopia has an impressive list of mammals, including remarkable endemics like Mountain Nyala and Simien Wolf.
March 1st Addis Ababa – Gefersa Reservoir – Lake Chelelaka
We began our Ethiopia trip at Gefersa Reservoir, which lies a short distance from Addis Ababa. A White-winged Cliff-Chat on top of a building on the outskirts of Addis came as a surprise. The reservoir held some ducks and waders including Blue-winged Goose and African Snipe. A jumble of pipes along the grassy lake margin held the endemic Abyssinian Longclaw (photo to the right), near-endemic Ethiopian Cisticola, and drab but engaging Moorland Chat.
A rivultet that flows into the lake was presided over by Gray-rumped Swallows – a highly local species in Ethiopia. A Long-crested Eagle posed a few yards away – our first taste of the remarkable tameness of Ethiopian birds that are rarely hunted or otherwise persecuted by humans. The lake inlet held the odd Wattled Ibis (photo below on the left), several Red-breasted Wheatears, and vigorously singing Abyssinian Siskins.
We returned to Addis for lunch and a siesta before heading south to Lake Cheleleka. Though in the throes of the dry season and reduced to a glorified mud puddle, the number of birds was incredible. Particularly stunning were Great Crested Grebes in breeding plumage, African Pygmy-Goose, and drake Garganey. As the sun dipped below the surrounding mountains, hundreds of Common Cranes packed into the marshes surrounding the lake. Their calls imparted the scene with the peace particular to places favored by cranes. We returned to Addis pleased with having seen well over 100 species, including several endemics.
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March 2nd Addis Ababa – Suluta Plain – Portugese Bridge – Debre Libanos
The Suluta Plain is a high-elevation grassland that holds a variety of wintering palearctic and locally breeding birds. Although dominated by agriculture, birds and humans exist in the remarkable harmony that must almost be endemic to Ethiopia. As soon as leaving the car on the morning’s first stop, we flushed up an Erlanger’s Lark, which sat down after a short flight for excellent views and digiscoped photos. We also enjoyed a flock of male Ortolan Buntings in breeding plumage and a ridiculously tame Lanner. A search for Red-chested Swallow at a rapidly dessicating rivulet took some time, but finally paid off when we spotted a single Red-chest in a mixed swallow flock. Later in the morning, a stop at another upland stream held a large flock of the charismatic endemic Spot-breasted Lapwing. Having approached these surprisingly tame birds, obtained great photos, and spotted what turned out to be our only Spotted Redshank of the trip, we continued across the plateau.
Our first stop in the Debre Libanos area was the Portuguese Bridge, on the rim of the spectacular Jemmu River Valley. A multitude of Ruppell’s Griffons circled overhead, and a stunning adult Lammergeirer dashed by no more than 30 feet over our heads. We enjoyed what may have been the best spaghetti of the trip at a restaurant with a spectacular view.
The afternoon’s location was the valley that holds the monastery of Debre Libanos – one of the holiest sites for the Ethiopian Orthodox church. While the lingering presence of the founder of the church may be disputed, the presence of many interesting and range-restricted bird species is undeniable. Although the afternoon started slow and hot, the birding quickly improved. White-cheeked Turaco, Brown Woodland Warbler, and Dark-headed Oriole eventually fell into place. A Eurasian Griffon – known as an African wintering bird from very few sites – flew by at close range.
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Back at the Portuguese Bridge at dusk, we added Mocking Cliff-Chat, Little Rock Thrush, and Cinnamon-breasted Bunting, as well as a small group of the well-known Gelada Baboon. The escarpment edge near the Portuguese Bridge closely resembles the area where the Geladas were filmed for the recent TV series Planet Earth. It may have even been one of the filming sites. This spot offers spectacular animals in a spectacular setting, and is not to be soon forgotten by anone who loves the natural world.
We were invited by the owner of the hotel where we
were staying to join him and his family in a traditional barbeque. The goat
he provided was tender and delicious, and was accompanied by at least three
Cape Eagle Owls hooting from the escarpment below.
Our target
today was Harwood’s Frankolin – one of the Ethiopian endemics with the smallest
range, and certainly one of the most difficult to see. A Verreaux’s Eagle
Owl that flew from the edge of the road and then was found via spotlight was
an enjoyable diversion from our pre-dawn drive into the Jemmu Valley. At dawn
on the edge of the spectacular Jemmu escarpment, hordes of francolins were
calling, including a couple of Harwood’s. Frantic scanning and scoping turned
up the hefty Erkel’s Frankolin but no Harwood’s. Having encountered a local
shepherd boy, I half-jokingly asked him if he knew the Harwood’s. He shook
his head yes, and began searching for the bird. An hour later, he spotted
a francolin on the ground which a quick look through binoculars confirmed
as a Harwood’s. Though it disappeared, the shepherd and I worked as a team
to flush the bird past Bernie, who had a superb in-flight look.
The rest of the day was spent at the bottom of the Jemmu Valley – an area that has an odd mix of species - highland birds, lowland birds, and a handful of birds normally found farther west in Ethiopia. The birding was excellent, with highlights including Fox Kestrel, Ovamba Sparrowhawk, and Green-backed Eremomela.
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March 4th Jemmu Valley – Debre Birhan – Ankober Escarpment
With the Harwood’s Frankolin in hand, we were able to head to the bottom of the Jemmu Valley early. The best sighting of the day, and perhaps the trip, was a massive adult Leopard seen at close range in a side canyon of the Jemmu. The presence of this animal is a testament to the rugged wilderness quality been retained by the valley. The potential for further discovery here is boundless, and each excursion seems to pick up something new and unexpected. Our discoveries included Giant Kingfisher, Abyssinian Roller (photo below), Foxy Cisticola, Red-collared Widowbird, and African Silverbill.
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In the afternoon, we climbed back up the escarpment,
then crossed a highland plane, reaching the small
city of Debre Birhan. Dusk found us at the edge of the Ankober escarpment
– the habitat for the highly localized Akober Serin. We almost immediately
saw several small groups of serins flying out of the agricultural land to
the west and going to roost on the vertical vastness of the escarpment below
us. As dusk fell, the wind picked up and the temperature dropped, reminding
us of the extremity of the environment in the 10,000-foot mountains that this
rare serin calls home.
March 5th
Debre Birhan – Ankober – Mhelka Gebdu
In transit to Ankober, we ate a field breakfast on the edge of the escarpment. Several Verreaux’s Eagles and a small flock of Somali Starlings were visible from our lofty perch. In the surrounding fields, were a juvenile and adult Erlanger’s Lark that were very tame, and allowed photography in the warm morning light.
Upon arrival in Ankober, we birded our way up the winding path that climbs to the lodge where we were staying. A Cinnamon Bracken-Warbler responded to tape, and was eventually herded into the open for a brief view. The lodge made a perfect place for some mid-day relaxation. Perched on the edge of the escarpment, it offers spectacular views, a fresh breeze, and a variety of raptors circling overhead. To the north, the Ankober escarpment (and most of the range of the Ankober Serin) is visible, and to the east lies the vastness of the Afar planes, where we would journey the following day.The late afternoon and evening were spend at Mhelka Gebdu, in the foothills below Ankober. This was our first chance on the trip to see many of the common acacia savanna birds of Ethiopia, including Red-bellied Parrot, White-bellied Go-away-bird, Rufous Chatterer, and Rueppell’s Weaver. Bernie saw our only Jameson’s Firefinch of the trip along the stream, and we eventually located a beautiful Half-collared Kingfisher.
March 6th Ankober – Mhelka Gebdu – Afar Plains – Awash
Early in the morning, we returned to Mhelka Gebdu in search of the endemic Yellow-throated Serin, which we hadn’t run into the previous afternoon. On the way down, we witnessed a remarkable migration of the Afar people and their camel herds. The Afar are a proudly independent, and essentially autonomous group of people that inhabit the plains below Ankober. They shun most modern technology, and are content living as they have for centuries if not millennia. While they normally stay in the arid savanna flatlands, they were moving into the foothills in search of water and forage for their camels. There was something moving about witnessing a migration with such profound ties to past eons of human history. As the dust of the Afar herds settled, we quickly located a small group of Yellow-throated Serins, along with a very cooperative pair of Yellow-breasted Bartets.
The rest of the day was spent traversing the Afar plains, which seemed strangely empty without the Afar people. At one stop in a lusher patch of acacias, Bernie spotted a pair of Northern White-faced Owls. They were thoroughly enjoyed and digiscoped. Despite the heat and dust of the day’s driving, the birds continued to be excellent. Nile Valley Sunbird, Lichtenstein’s Sandgrouse, and Arabian Bustard (photo below on right) were highlights.
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Having made great time crossing the plains, we were able to stop in some lush riverine woodland. Pearl-spotted Owlet is the best-hated bird in most of Africa, and whistling its call almost always produces at least a handful of mobbing birds. An owl call in this location received a remarkable response. At least 30 different species (including a couple of Owlets) gathering within 15 minutes. Most exciting were at least 6 Barred Warblers and 2 Olive-tree Warblers.
March 7-8 Awash NP:
Awash National Park is one of the best-known and most exciting birding destinations in Ethiopia. It contains extensive savanna, open grassland, lush riparian thickets, hot springs, and vast lava fields. The landscape is dominated by Mount Fentale, which erupted most recently a hundred years ago. We easily found Sombre Chat, which is restricted to the lava flows at the base of the volcano. More difficult was Scissor-tailed Kite, which eventually flew overhead at close range.
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Bustards were
much in evidence, with White-bellied, Buff-crested, Kori (see photo on
left below), and Hartlaub’s seen. Large flocks of Chestnut-bellied Sandgrouse
were in view every morning (photo on left above), and the grasslands
teemed with Common Quail, Harlequin Quail, Singing Bushlark, Red-winged Lark,
Gillett’s Lark, Somali Fiscal, and Southern Grey Shrike. One of the most enjoyable
experiences of Awash was finding a mixed flock of apparantly migrating Madagascar
and Blue-cheeked Bee-eaters. A Shikra even buzzed through the flock, but probably
concluded that all its members were a size too large for its predatory advances.
Awash National Park holds some great mammals like Soemmerring's Gazelle and
Beisa Oryx (see photo on right below).
We spend one night in the national park ‘lodge’, which more resembles a ramshackle trailer park than most people’s idea of a lodge. The upside of the almost comedically dilapidated accommodations was that as overnight guests we were allowed to do a night drive in the national park. The payoff was excellent. Highlights included Marsh Owl, Small Buttonquail, Star-spotted Nightjar, Common Genet, and Bat-eared Fox.
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March 9: Awash – Langano
A morning ‘game drive’ in Awash NP produced a few trip birds and additional experience with great birds like Abyssinian Ground-Hornbill (see photo below). We enjoyed our last meal at the Kereyou Lodge restaurant, high on the side of the Awash river gorge. Most of the day was spend driving to Lake Langano – a rift valley lake surrounded by arid acacia savanna. Birding Lake Langano in the windy late evening, we located a Black Scimitarbill and several Slender-tailed Nightjars. We fell asleep to the oddly oceanic sound of waves crashing onto the sand beach of the lake.
March 10:
Langano – Wondo Genet
We arose before dawn to search for nocturnal birds at a small escarpment. Freckled Nightjars quickly responded to tape, and a Greyish Eagle-Owl observed us quizzically from the top of a power pole a few yards away. As the sun rose, the birding continued to be excellent. I was shocked when a Blue-spotted Wood-Dove piled out of the dense brush in response to tape. A Verreaux’s Eagle-Owl was scoped on a day-roost. The highlight of the morning was a gorgeous pair of Rufous-necked Wrynecks that were observed at close range. What appeared to be the undescribed “Ethiopian” Cliff Swallow was spotted in a mixed swallow and swift flock. We felt we had earned our breakfast after locating virtually every desired species at Langano. We dined on the shore of the lake, sharing our leftover toast with a horde of Superb Starlings and Rueppell’s Weavers. A male Little Weaver even joined the Rueppell’s briefly, providing a good size comparison. On the way out of Langano, I spotted a White-winged Black-Tit flying across the road. With this sighting, we had officially cleaned up on target birds in the area.
A couple of hours were spent birding Abiata-Shala National Park, which holds two huge soda lakes. This place is spectacular, with tens of thousands of flamingoes (photo below) and hordes of shorebirds. We enoyed both the vast numbers of birds and some uncommon species, including Pacific Golden-Plover and Collared Pratincoles. A soda lake carpeted with flamingoes is one of the world’s great natural spectacles, and Ethiopia’s entrant in this category is as awe-inspiring as any.
A short afternoon drive brought us to Wondo Genet. Wondo is known as the most accessible place to find many highland birds. Although this continues to be the case, the forests in the area are severely threatened. Every year that we return to this site, there is less forest remaining. This is one place in Ethiopia where the human-natural balance is uneasy, and seemingly untenable. The emergence of a handful of local bird guides is an encouraging sign; perhaps the destruction can be stopped before the natural appeal of the area disappears completely. Despite the descruction, birding remains excellent. A short walk along a nearby stream gave us Red-shouldered Cuckooshrike and Western Olive Sunbird, but not the Yellow-fronted Parrot I was hoping for.
March 11: Wondo Genet
A morning expedition into the montane forest above Wondo Genet was highly successful. One by one, our target birds fell into place: Abysinnian Woodpecker, Green-backed Honeyguide, Grey Cuckooshrike, Spotted Creeper, and Sharpe’s Starling. A pair of massive Crowned Hawk-Eagles circled over the valley. At the end of the morning, the only birds we had left to find were Yellow-fronted Parrot and Yellow-bellied Waxbill. A flock of waxbills surprised us on the way to lunch, leaving only the parrot to find.
We relaxed on the beautiful grounds of the hotel during the heat of the afternoon, returning to the parrot location in mid afternoon. I had hired a local guide to give us the best possible chance at the parrot. Nonetheless, at dusk, the situation seemed grim; no parrots had appeared at their favored roost. Somewhat disheartened, and scrambling for alternate plans to find the birds, we began the walk back to the hotel in the growing gloom. At the same moment, our guide and I heard the parrots just the other side of a small ridge. Almost instantly, they appeared over the hill, then settled in a snag 100 yards away. We enjoyed excellent scope views, albeit in less than full sunlight!
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A quiet morning
was spent looking for Green-backed Twinspots in the hotel gardens. Although
no twinspots were located, we took advantage of the excellent morning light
and remarkably tame birds to capture hundreds of megabytes of photos. Particularly
cooperative were Northern Carmine Bee-Eaters and African Citrils (photo on left above). A spectacular African
Emerald Cuckoo put in a brief appearance, almost glowing in the morning sun.
Downing a strong but delicious Ethiopian coffee for the road, we tore ourselves
away from the gardens tame denizens and began a long day of travel to the
Bale Mountains.
Although we made few stops for birding in the high steppes above the rift valley, we did manage to spot a few wintering birds such as Lesser Spotted Eagle and House Martin through the dust of the road. Approaching the high-elevation grasslands of the national park, we encountered our first Rouget’s Rails along the road – apparently unfazed by the construction in the area (photo to the right). Over the next half-hour of driving, Bernie counted 22 more of this charismatic Abyssinian endemic, many of them on the road itself!
We arrived at Dinsho, on the skirts of Bale National
Park, in the late afternoon. Employing the services of a local guide, we quickly
set out in search of the unique birds and mammals of the natural park. A pair
of Montane Nighthjars on a day roost allowed approach to within a couple of
feet. Bernie enjoyed a brief look at a Bale Warbler – a possible split from
Brown Warbler that is restricted to the Bale mountains of southeast Ethiopia. While the birds were good,
the mammals were truly spectacular. Mountain Nyalas (photo to the right)
were seen at extremely close range, including massive, elk-sized bucks. The
population of this beautiful animal is down to 
as few as 2000 animals, restricted
to the southeastern Ethiopian highlands. Other mammals included Grey Duiker,
Menelik’s Bushbuck, and Bohor Reedbuck. The night was spent at the national
park’s Dinsho lodge – a fantastic facility that is unfortunately failing to
achieve its full potential. An evening spotlighting drive failed to produce
the sought-after Abyssinian Long-eared Owl, but we did enjoy at least three
African Wood Owls, including an individual hooting away over the roof of our
quarters in the lodge.
March 13: Bale National Park
Morning birding in Dinsho turned up the usual suspects, including Abysinnian Catbird and White-backed Black-Tit. In the larger town of Goba, we put down a hefty breakfast at our hotel’s restaurant. A steep drive brought us onto the open, Afro-Alpine grasslands of the Sannetti plateau. It didn’t take long to spot an Abysinnian Wolf – another mammal that is almost restricted to the Bale Mountains. It is a lanky canine that may have more in common with the wolves of Europe than the jackals or foxes of Africa. One of the more memorable natural history experiences of the trip occurred on the margin of an alpine lake. I was surprised to encounter two African Snipe foraging on the flats flanking the lake – far from any sheltering vegetation. They had apparently been driven to this atypical behavior by lack of water on the plateau caused by the severe drought. While studying and photographing the snipe, a Lanner appeared from the cliffs above, stooped on one of the snipe, and dealt it a resounding punch in mid-air. The snipe fell to the ground, rolled over several times, then crawled into a rocky crevice. Bernie and I approached hoping to get up-close photos, or perhaps to perform a post-mortem. To our surprise, the bird flew up at our arrival, and resumed feeding on the mudflats with no apparent ill-effects of its encounter with the Lanner. Though it survived, it is hard to imagine that the snipe persisted for long in the open conditions forced upon them by drought.
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We ate a scenic picnic on the top of Mount Tullo Deemtu, at 4,377, the second-tallest peak in Ethiopia. Red-billed Choughs and a juvenile Lammergeier buzzed by (photo on the right above; being mobbed by Augur Buzzard), and a Malachite Sunbirds won ‘highest passerine of the trip’ honors. We returned early to the hotel to try to get some extra sleep in preparation for our early departure the following day. A few interesting birds spiced up the drive off the plateau, including Golden Eagle, Steppe Eagle, and another Bale Warbler. Stealing the show was a tremendous fire consuming a vast area of moorland a couple of ridges away. The smoke formed a massive cloud that blotted out the sun when the wind blew in the right direction. When the rains don’t come on time, snipe are batted around by Lanners, and thousands of acres of moorland are turned into ash. I found myself sympathizing with the prayers for rain of the local farmers.
March 14:
Sof Omar
An early departure saw us well on our way to the Islam’s sacred valley of Sof Omar when the sun rose. The most exciting point of the drive down was an Aardvark that ran through the truck’s headlights. Our primary target for the day was Salvadori’s Serin – another of the rarest and most restricted-range endemics of Ethiopia. It is known from two sites, one of which is the valley of Sof Omar. Although the bird can be difficult, and is missed by many groups, I quickly pulled in a small flock that posed for good digiscopes and great views. Other interesting species that we found included Somali Tit, Nightingale Thrush, and Collared Sunbird. The breakfast coffee went down easy with the main target bird, and one of Ethiopia’s most difficult species, already in hand. The remaining cool of the morning was spent birding and digiscoping the valley bottom. As the day heated up, we visited the spot where the Web River disappears into the mystical caves of Sof Omar. As always the scene was cheerily bucolic, with dozens of people washing clothes, washing themselves, and herding livestock to the river for a drink of precious water.
The long drive back to Goba was spiced with abundant bird life, including ridiculously close Kori Bustards, White Storks in a recently plowed field, and our first Somali Crows of the trip.March 15: Goba – Harerra Forest – Genale – Negele
We made few stops on our re-crossing of the Sannetti Plateau, but did see more Abyssinian Wolves and a pair of beautifully cryptic Moorland Frankolins. The fire that had raged on the plateau two days before had somehow gone out. To the south of the Sannetti Plateau lies one of the most extensive and intact monane forests in Ethiopia. We spent several hours birding along a picturesque stream through the forest, again hoping to encounter Green-backed Twinspot. Although the Twinspot kept its distance, we saw several of the elusive Abyssinian Crimsonwing. Other sightings included Cinnamon Bracken Warbler and a flock of migrating European Bee-Eaters – an odd sight in thick montane forest at 9000 feet.
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With a long drive ahead, we proceeded quickly down into the lowlands, progressing towards Negele – our base for the next several days. One quick stop was made at a stream that normally has Gray-headed Kingfisher. I found the stream dry, and almost didn’t bother to stop, but decided to try tape nonetheless. A kingfisher immediately responded, taking up a post above the dry streambed; yet another creature desperate for the rains to come. Towards dusk, we stopped at the Genale River – a traditional spot for Prince Ruspoli’s Turaco. Although we failed to locate the turaco, a Grey Kestrel was a nice consolation prize. The turaco would have to wait for the following morning.
March 16: Negle – Wadera – Liben PlainsBright and early, we pulled out of Negele and drove back into the foothills favored by Ruspoli’s Turaco. Our destination was a site recently discovered by Keith Barnes and myself that seemed to support a large population of the elusive turaco. After a search that felt long but was actually quite short, Bernie spotted the first Turaco – crest glowing as it basked in the first rays of the morning sun. High-fives were exchanged, and the serious task of digiscoping this photogenic creature began. Walking around the area, we eventually turned up a flock of 12 turacos, which allowed close approach (photo below). One of Africa’s most-wanted birds was ours – not just a brief look, but an up-close encounter with a whole flock of the stunning creatures. Along the drive back to Negele were a handful of Red-and-yellow Barbets teed up on termite mounds.
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Another sought-after Ethiopian endemic was the afternoon’s target. Sidamo Lark may have the smallest range of any described Ethiopian bird species. When searching for the bird in the middle of the plains it inhabits, you can see habitat that is inappropriate for the bird encroaching in three of the four compass directions. It is possible that other pockets of the birds exist, but the open grassy areas it prefers are highly specific to the Negele area. Birding until dusk, we located Temminck’s Courser and the local Somali Short-toed Lark, but no Sidamos. Dinner was enjoyed in a surprisingly good local restaurant.
March 17: Negele – Liben Plains
We again departed Negele early in order to be in the savannas to its east during the morning cool. These acacia savannas lie on gently rolling hills, part of the great swath of land that angles down from the highlands of Abyssinia to the baked stone deserts along the Red Sea in Somalia. Although they look dry and almost devoid of life from a distance, they hold an excellent diversity of bird species, even at the height of the dry season. Many northeastern Africa arid-zone birds were encountered, including Abyssinian Scimitarbill, Three-streaked Tchagra, Somali Crombec, Northern Grosbeak-Canary, and Crimson-rumped Waxbill. Several Guenther’s Dik-Dik middens were discovered, replete with the oil-covered sticks that the small antelope ram into a gland on their nose to mark their territory.
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Although
it was clear and hot by the time we were back at the Liben Plains, we made
another attempt at Sidamo Lark. Out on a small track through the plains, I
spotted an interesting eagle, and stopped the car to take a look. As I pondered
the Aquila, Bernie pointed out an interesting bird standing on a clump
of grass a short distance away. He said that it looked good, and I agreed,
but I was surprised to see a Sidamo Lark making itself so obvious – usually
the species hunkers down, and is almost impossible to spot. As I 
approached
the bird, it disappeared to the grass (which was sparse, an inch high, and
baked brown by the sun). We could not re-locate it until we were only 10 feet
away. The bird has a plumage pattern that is perfect for concealment in the
grasses of the Liben Plains. Once spotted, it is remarkable accommodating,
and Bernie and I both got excellent photos (photo above left).
March 18: Negele – Yabello
Between Negele and Yabello lies a rugged swatch of savanna
punctuated by the slightly lusher vegetation of the Dawa River valley. Although
the driving is rough, the long trip is made interesting by an exciting selection
of southern Ethiopia specialty birds. Our first exciting find was a flock
that contained several Magpie Starlings. We reached the Dawa River while the
morning cool remained, and quickly located our desired species: White-winged
Dove, Black-bellied Sunbird, and Salvadori’s Weaver. A Little Sparrowhawk
dashed by, and African Pied Wagtails hopped on the rocky banks of the river.
A lunch stop in savanna was interesting despite the heat; graced by Bare-eyed
Thrushes and an Icterine Warbler. More unexpected was a male Black Cuckooshrike
– a bird that has been reported in southern Ethiopia, but that is not well-known
in the country.
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Departing Yabello early, Bernie and I arrived in the savanna
south of town at dawn. As soon as we exited the car, I sensed something different
about the scene. As I began inhaling the smell of moist earth, and tuned in
to the countless bird voices around us, I realized that the rains had come
to this area during the night. The gratitude for easy water 
being broadcast
by every creature in the area was palpable and thrilling. Walking a short
way into the scrub, we found a bare rock with a shallow depression full of
rainwater. It was buzzing with bird activity. Wanting to abet and prolong
this phenenomenon, I added water to the pool. Red-naped Bush-Shrikes that
were singing from the tops of acacia bushes briefly lured us farther into
the scrub (photo to the right). This inveterate skulker had been transformed
into an extrovert by a sprinkle of precious precipitation.
Returning to the pool, the bathing and drinking show continued. Waterpark visitors included D’Arnaud’s Barbet, Rufous Chatterer, and White-bellied Canary. Just as the action at the pool was slowing, three White-tailed Swallows appeared over our nascent natorium (photos below on right). One of them ventured to the edge of the pond for a quick drink before vanishing into the savanna as mysteriously as it had appeared. After breakfast, we checked the pond once again and found a large tortoise advancing towards the little basin of water. It is hard to know how the tortoise honed in on the surface water so quickly. Like the swallows, it must have some preternatural sense for the desert’s most precious commodity.
We continued to reap the fruits of the previous night’s rain as we continued south. Everywhere, birds were in full song, and much more active than previously. A stop next to a small settlement held Shelley’s Rufous Sparrow. The place where we ate lunch was very quiet when we arrived, but several Foxy Larks took to the air and started singing when a few drops of rain fell from a pregnantly dark cloud. For seven months, not a drop of precipitation had fallen on this arid region. But the rains had come, and the world was transformed. The start of the wet season was one of the most remarkable natural history events I have ever witnessed, and one of the most momentous to be witnessed on the African continent.
A night drive revealed a correspondingly active nocturnal crowd. Incredible numbers of nightjars hawked the clouds of newly hatched moths that fluttered around my spotlight. Dozens of Donaldson-Smith’s Nightjars (photo below left) sang from the acacias and several African Scops-Owls immediately responded to my tape.
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March 20: Yabello Area
At dawn, the savanna was again bursting with bird song. Cuckoos were particularly in evidence, including Great Spotted Cuckoo and Senegal Coucal. An adult Martial Eagle posed for photos no more than 20 yards away (photo below on left). Crowned Lapwing was another species that seemed to materialize with the onset of the wet season. They were everywhere, with big flocks flying back and forth over the road. The rains had also triggered frantic nest building among most birds. Every Stresemann’s Bush-Crow I saw had a stick in its bill or was actively working on constructing the large stick-ball nest characteristic of the species. A stop at a new area of scrub held a pack of Scaly Chatterers and a Foxy Cisticola. While returning to Yabello, we admired a White-bellied Bustart in front of an ancient volcanic crater that juts from the plains (photo below on right).
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Most of the afternoon was spent resting up for a long night drive in the evening.
As the sun set, we set off, almost immediately encountering a Greyish Eagle-Owl.
Again nightjars were much in evidence, but the diversity was not as good as
it had been the previous night. One beautiful Donaldson-Smith’s Nightjar allowed
very close approach and excellent photos. We finally caught up with one of
our most difficult remaining target birds when I called in and spotlighted
a Three-banded Courser.
March 21: Yabello – Arba Minch – Nechisar NP
This was primarily a travel day between the dry savanna of Yabello and the moister riparian woodland and grassland of the Nechisar area. Our breakfast stop was along a riverbed in the scrub near Yabello. Here we witnessed another dramatic result of the coming of the rains. While birding our way down the riverbed, I happened to turn around and see what I initially took for a mirage; the riverbed in the distance seemed to be glimmering with water. Quickly I realized that the ‘mirage’ was advancing, and that the river had begun flowing again. We quickly made our way to the side of the river on which our vehicle was parked, then enjoyed our coffee and eggs as we watched the re-birth of the river. By the time we left, the formerly dry riverbed was gushing with at least a foot of water. Our Ethiopian driver and translator were flabbergasted, having never witnessed anything like this. Although the morning’s highlight was the river, the birding was also good. We found Spotted Morning-Thrushes, Magpie Starlings, and several very agitated Pearl-spotted Owlets.
A stop at a large local lake held Black Egret, White-headed Vulture, and African Cuckoo-Hawk. Arriving in Arba Minch, we checked into a good hotel and enjoyed fresh salad and generally excellent provender for lunch. When the heat of the day decreased, we made the short drive to Nechisar National Park. The temple-like interior of the park’s fig forest, with huge tree trunks rising in the gloom, furnished a strong contrast to the open, acacia habitats we had been birding for the past week. Although birding this habitat is challenging, it did hold several new birds for the trip: Broad-billed Roller, Yellowbill, Red-capped Robin-Chat, and Mosque Swallow.
March 22: Nechisar NP
Early in the morning, we again entered the park to bird the lush riparian
forest. This time, we hiked through the forest to the ecotone with the adjoining
savanna. Birding was much easier in this more open habitat, and the birds
were good. Most interesting was a pair of Red-shouldered Cuckooshrike and
a Scaly-throated Honeyguide. Walking back to our vehicle, I caught movement
as something flushed at my feet. I almost ignored the bird, thinking it a
large insect, but peered in the direction the bird had flown and quickly realized
that it was a Green-backed Twinspot. We enjoyed great, close views of the
bird as it walked along the forest floor, sometimes disappearing into the
fig leaves that were massive compared to its tininess. This was a satisfying
conclusion to Bernie’s long quest for this bird, which has stretched through
several trips to Africa.
The rest of the day was spent in the open, grassland portion of Nechisar National
Park. The plains held Desert Cisticola, Flappet Lark, and White-tailed Lark.
The edge of Lake Abaya was idyllically African, with Zebras and Warthogs watering
alongside a huge number of birds. Wattled Lapwings called anxiously as we
approached, and several Whinchats were our first of the trip. March 23: Arba Minch – Nechisar NP – Awassa
After breakfast, we returned to the fig forest of Nechisar. A Half-collared Kingfisher graced the hot springs, Narina Trogons moved lazily through, and African Yellow White-Eyes called from the canopy. Bernie caught sight of an interesting cuckooshrike whose identity remains uncertain. With the day warming up, we began the journey to Awassa. This trip took us through the fruit basket of Ethiopia, where large orchards and locals eagerly hawking their products line the road. Gray Kestrel was the most interesting bird along the way.
Lake
Awassa is one of the smallest of the lakes that dot the Rift Valley of Ethiopia.
Nonetheless, it may be the most interesting ornithologically. Humans and birds
have reached a harmony here that is remarkable even in a country where the
two tribes generally coexist peacefully. African Pygmy-Goose can be seen at
a few yards, and Malachite Kingfishers sit on rocks literally at your feet
(photo below right). It is often difficult to stop admiring the birds in
your immediate vicinity to search the farther reaches of the lake for additional
birds. Our evening birding at Awassa was excellent as expected. Lesser Swamp
Warbler, Great Reed Warbler, African Yellow Warbler, and Red-faced Cisticola
haunted the lake-edge reeds. A Hippo put on an incredible show as it surfaced
again and again only a few yards offshore. Even the Black Crakes were tame,
bright yellow bills lit up by the warm rays of the setting sun. Towards dusk,
the marshes came alive with hundreds of White-winged Terns and thousands of
Barn Swallows.
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March 24: Awassa – Ziway
Our first destination on the trip’s penultimate day was one of Africa’s most exciting and remarkable: the fish market of Awassa. The number and tameness of the birds here are staggering. Marabou Storks shoulder their way through the vendors (photos below), Great White Pelicans beg for fish scraps, and a diverse horse of larids squabble for the scraps neglected by the larger piscivores. Awassa holds uncommon birds too; Bernie spotted Lesser Moorhens and a Caspian Gull. We both snapped hundreds of photos of the tame shorebirds, ducks, and other birds that fed in a marsh adjacent the market. The show is not limited to waterbirds; Silvery-cheeked Hornbills and Thick-billed Ravens are common in the figs that line the shore.
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We continued our survey of Lake Awassa a couple of miles down the shore. Gulls were much in evidence, and included Lesser Black-backed and Heuglin’s. A White-backed Duck splashed in the marsh alongside hordes of African Jacanas, Common Moorhens, and Red-knobbed Coots. The dense sedges of a nearby marsh held a Red-chested Flufftail that we saw briefly but well. Spotting this elusive species capped off an almost overwhelming morning of birding.
Lunch was taken at a nearby hotel, where the birding continued. Mealtime sightings
included a troop of White Colobus Monkeys, Banded Snake-Eagle, and a lone
Eurasian Wryneck. On the way to Ziway, we make a second stop at Abiata-Shala
National Park. Again, the lake was lined with tens of thousands of Greater
and Lesser Flamingoes. The shorebird population had seemingly increased –
up to hundreds of thousands. In late afternoon, hundreds of thousands if not
a million Barn and Bank Swallows circled over the lake and its periphery.
This place is simply incredible.
March 25: Lake Ziway – Addis Ababa
By the final morning of the trip, we had seen so much that
the possibilities for new birds were limited. Nonetheless, the trip list marched
on. Just as I was saying to Bernie that it was odd that we hadn’t found Saddle-billed
Stork and Curlew Sandpiper, I put the scope on a pair of storks. A few minutes
later, I added a handful of Curlew Sandpipers that were just gaining breeding
plumage. Ziway also supports eerily tame birds, but our paradigms had begun
shifting such that the sight of dozens of 5-foot-tall Marabous a few feet
away seemed normal.
The afternoon was mostly spent relaxing in Addis, though the gardens of our hotel yielded two new trip birds: Wood Warbler and Brown Warbler. We celebrated an incredibly successful trip on a balcony overlooking the hotel gardens, enjoying a vesper chorus of Mountain Thrushes. Our trip total was a remarkable 583 species, including almost 140 birds that were new for Bernie. We had surveyed a variety of interesting local cultures, taken in a variety of spectacular landscapes, and seen a staggering number of birds and mammals. I would return to South Africa early the next morning, while Bernie would spend the following day visiting the National Museum and shopping before returning to the United States on a late evening flight.
BIRD LIST
This list includes all the bird species that were recorded by one or both of us. Taxonomy and nomenclature follow: Clements, James F. 2007. The Clements Checklist of Birds of the World, Sixth Edition. Ithaca, NY: Cornell University Press. If all of the birds we saw of a given species belong to a subspecies that is a potential split, I put the split species name first, and the Clements name in parentheses. Outright exceptions to Clements are bracketed.
1. Little Grebe Tachybaptus ruficollis
2. Great Crested Grebe Podiceps cristatus
3. Eared Grebe Podiceps nigricollis
4. Great White Pelican Pelecanus onocrotalus
5. Pink-backed Pelican Pelecanus rufescens
6. Great Cormorant Phalacrocorax carbo
7. Long-tailed Cormorant Phalacrocorax africanus
8. Darter Anhinga melanogaster
9. Gray Heron Ardea cinerea
10. Black-headed Heron Ardea melanocephala
11. Goliath Heron Ardea goliath
12. Purple Heron Ardea purpurea
13. Great Egret Ardea alba
14. Black Heron Egretta ardesiaca
15. Intermediate Egret Egretta intermedia
16. Little Egret Egretta garzetta
17. Squacco Heron Ardeola ralloides
18. Cattle Egret Bubulcus ibis
19. Striated Heron Butorides striatus
20. Hamerkop Scopus umbretta
21. Yellow-billed Stork Mycteria ibis
22. Black Stork Ciconia nigra
23. Abdim’s Stork Ciconia abdimii
24. Wooly-necked Stork Ciconia episcopus
25. White Stork Ciconia ciconia
26. Saddle-billed Stork Ephippiorhynchus senegalensis
27. Marabou Stork Leptoptilos crumeniferus
28. Sacred Ibis Threskiornis aethiopicus
29. Hadada Ibis Bostrychia hagedash
30. e Wattled Ibis Bostrychia carunculata
31. Glossy Ibis Plegadis falcinellus
32. Eurasian Spoonbill Platalea leucorodia
33. African Spoonbill Platalea alba
34. Greater Flamingo Phoenicopterus rubber
35. Lesser Flamingo Phoenicopterus minor
36. Fulvous Whistling-Duck Dendrocygna bicolor
37. White-faced Whistling-Duck Dendrocygna viduata
38. White-backed Duck Thalassornis leuconotus
39. E Blue-winged Goose Cyanochen cyanopterus
40. Egyptian Goose Alopochen aegyptiacus
41. Ruddy Shelduck Tadorna ferruginea
42. Spur-winged Goose Plectropterus gambensis
43. Comb Duck Sarkidiornis melanotos
44. African Pygmy-Goose Nettapus auritus
45. African Black Duck Anas sparsa
46. Eurasian Wigeon Anas Penelope
47. Eurasian Teal Anas crecca
48. Yellow-billed Duck Anas undulata
49. Northern Pintail Anas acuta
50. Red-billed Duck Anas erythrorhyncha
51. Hottentot Teal Anas hottentota
52. Garganey Anas querquedula
53. Northern Shoveler Anas clypeata
54. Southern Pochard Netta erythrophthalma
55. Tufted Duck Aythya fuligula
56. Maccoa Duck Oxyura maccoa
57. African Cuckoo-Hawk Aviceda cuculoides
58. Black-shouldered Kite Elanus caeruleus
59. Scissor-tailed Kite Chelictinia riocourii
60. Black Kite Milvus migrans
61. African Fish-Eagle Haliaeetus vocifer
62. Hooded Vulture Necrosyrtes monachus
63. Lammergeier Gypaetus barbatus
64. Egyptian Vulture Neophron percnopterus
65. White-backed Vulture Gyps africanus
66. Rueppell's Griffon Gyps rueppellii
67. Eurasian Griffon Gyps fulvus
68. Lappet-faced Vulture Torgos tracheliotus
69. White-headed Vulture Trigonoceps occipitalis
70. Black-breasted Snake-Eagle Circaetus pectoralis
71. Brown Snake-Eagle Circaetus cinereus
72. Banded Snake-Eagle Circaetus cinerascens
73. Bateleur Terathopius ecaudatus
74. Western Marsh-Harrier Circus aeruginosus
75. Pallid Harrier Circus macrourus
76. Montagu's Harrier Circus pygargus
77. African Harrier-Hawk Polyboroides typus
78. Dark Chanting-Goshawk Melierax metabates
79. Eastern Chanting-Goshawk Melierax poliopterus
80. Gabar Goshawk Micronisus gabar
81. Shikra Accipiter badius
82. Levant Sparrowhawk Accipiter brevipes
83. Little Sparrowhawk Accipiter minullus
84. Ovampo Sparrowhawk Accipiter ovampensis
85. Rufous-chested Sparrowhawk Accipiter rufiventris
86. Black Goshawk Accipiter melanoleucus
87. Eurasian Buzzard Buteo buteo
88. Mountain Buzzard Buteo oreophilus
89. Augur Buzzard Buteo augur
90. Lesser Spotted Eagle Aquila pomarina
91. Greater Spotted Eagle Aquila clanga
92. Tawny Eagle Aquila rapax
93. Steppe Eagle Aquila nipalensis
94. Wahlberg's Eagle Aquila wahlbergi
95. Golden Eagle Aquila chrysaetos
96. Verreaux's Eagle Aquila verreauxii
97. African Hawk-Eagle Hieraaetus spilogaster
98. Booted Eagle Hieraaetus pennatus
99. Martial Eagle Polemaetus bellicosus
100. Long-crested Eagle Lophaetus occipitalis
101. Crowned Hawk-Eagle Stephanoaetus coronatus
102. Secretary-bird Sagittarius serpentarius
103. Pygmy Falcon Polihierax semitorquatus
104. Lesser Kestrel Falco naumanni
105. Eurasian Kestrel Falco tinnunculus
106. Fox Kestrel Falco alopex
107. Gray Kestrel Falco ardosiaceus
108. Eurasian Hobby Falco subbuteo
109. African Hobby Falco cuvierii
110. Lanner Falcon Falco biarmicus
111. Saker Falcon Falco cherrug
112. Peregrine Falcon Falco peregrinus
113. Coqui Francolin Francolinus coqui
114. Crested Francolin Francolinus sephaena
115. Moorland Francolin Francolinus psilolaemus
116. Scaly Francolin Francolinus squamatus
117. E Harwood's Francolin Francolinus harwoodi
118. Yellow-necked Francolin Francolinus leucoscepus
119. e Chestnut-naped Francolin Francolinus castaneicollis
120. e Erckel's Francolin Francolinus erckelii
121. Common Quail Coturnix coturnix
122. Harlequin Quail Coturnix delegorguei
123. Helmeted Guineafowl Numida meleagris
124. Vulturine Guineafowl Acryllium vulturinum
125. Small Buttonquail Turnix sylvaticus
126. Black Crowned-Crane Balearica pavonina
127. Common Crane Grus grus
128. Red-chested Flufftail Sarothrura rufa
129. African Rail Rallus caerulescens
130. e Rouget's Rail Rougetius rougetii
131. Black Crake Amaurornis flavirostris
132. Purple Swamphen Porphyrio porphyrio
133. Common Moorhen Gallinula chloropus
134. Lesser Moorhen Gallinula angulata
135. Red-knobbed Coot Fulica cristata
136. Arabian Bustard Ardeotis arabs
137. Kori Bustard Ardeotis kori
138. White-bellied Bustard Eupodotis senegalensis
139. Buff-crested Bustard Eupodotis gindiana
140. Hartlaub's Bustard Lissotis hartlaubii
141. Lesser Jacana Microparra capensis
142. African Jacana Actophilornis africanus
143. Black-winged Stilt Himantopus himantopus
144. Pied Avocet Recurvirostra avosetta
145. Senegal Thick-knee Burhinus senegalensis
146. e Somali (Cream-colored) Courser Cursorius somalensis (cursor)
147. Temminck's Courser Cursorius temminckii
148. Three-banded Courser Rhinoptilus cinctus
149. Collared Pratincole Glareola pratincola
150. Spur-winged Plover Vanellus spinosus
151. Black-headed Lapwing Vanellus tectus
152. Black-winged Lapwing Vanellus melanopterus
153. Crowned Lapwing Vanellus coronatus
154. Wattled Lapwing Vanellus senegallus
155. E Spot-breasted Lapwing Vanellus melanocephalus
156. Pacific Golden-Plover Pluvialis fulva
157. Common Ringed Plover Charadrius hiaticula
158. Little Ringed Plover Charadrius dubius
159. Kittlitz's Plover Charadrius pecuarius
160. Three-banded Plover Charadrius tricollaris
161. African Snipe Gallinago nigripennis
162. Common Snipe Gallinago gallinago
163. Black-tailed Godwit Limosa limosa
164. Common Sandpiper Actitis hypoleucos
165. Green Sandpiper Tringa ochropus
166. Spotted Redshank Tringa erythropus
167. Common Greenshank Tringa nebularia
168. Marsh Sandpiper Tringa stagnatilis
169. Wood Sandpiper Tringa glareola
170. Little Stint Calidris minuta
171. Temminck's Stint Calidris temminckii
172. Curlew Sandpiper Calidris ferruginea
173. Ruff Philomachus pugnax
174. Caspian Gull Larus cachinnans
175. Heuglin´s Gull Larus heuglini
176. Lesser Black-backed Gull Larus fuscus
177. Gray-headed Gull Larus cirrocephalus
178. Black-headed Gull Larus ridibundus
179. Gull-billed Tern Sterna nilotica
180. Whiskered Tern Chlidonias hybridus
181. White-winged Tern Chlidonias leucopterus
182. Chestnut-bellied Sandgrouse Pterocles exustus
183. Black-faced Sandgrouse Pterocles decoratus
184. Lichtenstein's Sandgrouse Pterocles lichtensteinii
185. Four-banded Sandgrouse Pterocles quadricinctus
186. Rock Dove Columba livia
187. Speckled Pigeon Columba guinea
188. e White-collared Pigeon Columba albitorques
189. Lemon Dove Columba larvata
190. Dusky Turtle-Dove Streptopelia lugens
191. African Collared-Dove Streptopelia roseogrisea
192. e White-winged Collared-Dove Streptopelia reichenowi
193. African Mourning Dove Streptopelia decipiens
194. Red-eyed Dove Streptopelia semitorquata
195. Ring-necked Dove Streptopelia capicola
196. Vinaceous Dove Streptopelia vinacea
197. Laughing Dove Streptopelia senegalensis
198. Emerald-spotted Wood-Dove Turtur chalcospilos
199. Black-billed Wood-Dove Turtur abyssinicus
200. Blue-spotted Wood-Dove Turtur afer
201. Tambourine Dove Turtur tympanistria
202. Namaqua Dove Oena capensis
203. Bruce's Green-Pigeon Treron waalia
204. e Black-winged Lovebird Agapornis taranta
205. Red-bellied (A. Orange-bellied) Parrot Poicephalus rufiventris
206. E Yellow-fronted Parrot Poicephalus flavifrons
207. e White-cheeked Turaco Tauraco leucotis
208. E Prince Ruspoli's Turaco Tauraco ruspolii
209. Bare-faced Go-away-bird Corythaixoides personatus
210. White-bellied Go-away-bird Corythaixoides leucogaster
211. Great Spotted Cuckoo Clamator glandarius
212. Red-chested Cuckoo Cuculus solitarius
213. Common / African Cuckoo Cuculus canorus / gularis
214. Klaas' Cuckoo Chrysococcyx klaas
215. African Emerald Cuckoo Chrysococcyx cupreus
216. Yellowbill Ceuthmochares aereus
217. Blue-headed Coucal Centropus monachus
218. Senegal Coucal Centropus senegalensis
219. White-browed Coucal Centropus supercilious
220. African Scops-Owl Otus senegalensis
221. Northern White-faced Owl Ptilopsis leucotis
222. Cape Eagle-Owl Bubo capensis
223. Grayish Eagle-Owl Bubo cinerascens
224. Verreaux's Eagle-Owl Bubo lacteus
225. African Wood-Owl Strix woodfordii
226. Pearl-spotted Owlet Glaucidium perlatum
227. Marsh Owl Asio capensis
228. Eurasian Nightjar Caprimulgus europaeus
229. Sombre Nightjar Caprimulgus fraenatus
230. Nubian Nightjar Caprimulgus nubicus
231. Donaldson-Smith’s Nightjar Caprimulgus donaldsoni
232. Montane (Abyssinian) Nightjar Caprimulgus poliocephalus
233. Plain Nightjar Caprimulgus inornatus
234. Star-spotted Nightjar Caprimulgus stellatus
235. Freckled Nightjar Caprimulgus tristigma
236. Slender-tailed Nightjar Caprimulgus clarus
237. African Palm-Swift Cypsiurus parvus
238. Alpine Swift Tachymarptis melba
239. Mottled Swift Tachymarptis aequatorialis
240. Common Swift Apus apus
241. Nyanza Swift Apus niansa
242. Little Swift Apus affinis
243. White-rumped Swift Apus caffer
244. Speckled Mousebird Colius striatus
245. Blue-naped Mousebird Urocolius macrourus
246. Narina Trogon Apaloderma narina
247. Half-collared Kingfisher Alcedo semitorquata
248. Malachite Kingfisher Alcedo cristata
249. African Pygmy-Kingfisher Ispidina picta
250. Gray-headed Kingfisher Halcyon leucocephala
251. Woodland Kingfisher Halcyon senegalensis
252. Striped Kingfisher Halcyon chelicuti
253. Giant Kingfisher Megaceryle maxima
254. Pied Kingfisher Ceryle rudis
255. Little Bee-eater Merops pusillus
256. Blue-breasted Bee-eater Merops variegates
257. Blue-cheeked Bee-eater Merops persicus
258.
259. European Bee-eater Merops apiaster
260. Northern Carmine Bee-eater Merops nubicus
261. Abyssinian Roller Coracias abyssinica
262. Lilac-breasted Roller Coracias caudate
263. Rufous-crowned Roller Coracias naevia
264. Broad-billed Roller Eurystomus glaucurus
265. Eurasian Hoopoe Upupa epops
266. e Black-billed Woodhoopoe Phoeniculus somaliensis
267. Black Scimitar-bill Rhinopomastus aterrimus
268. Abyssinian Scimitar-bill Rhinopomastus minor
269. Red-billed Hornbill Tockus erythrorhynchus
270. Eastern Yellow-billed Hornbill Tockus flavirostris
271. Von der Decken's Hornbill Tockus deckeni
272. e Hemprich's Hornbill Tockus hemprichii
273. African Gray Hornbill Tockus nasutus
274. Silvery-cheeked Hornbill Ceratogymna brevis
275. Abyssinian Ground-Hornbill Bucorvus abyssinicus
276. Yellow-fronted Tinkerbird Pogoniulus chrysoconus
277. Red-fronted Tinkerbird Pogoniulus pusillus
278. Red-fronted Barbet Tricholaema diademata
279. Black-throated Barbet Tricholaema melanocephala
280. e Banded Barbet Lybius undatus
281. Black-billed Barbet Lybius guifsobalito
282. Double-toothed Barbet Lybius bidentatus
283. Yellow-breasted Barbet Trachyphonus margaritatus
284. Red-and-yellow Barbet Trachyphonus erythrocephalus
285. D'Arnaud's Barbet Trachyphonus darnaudii
286. Green-backed Honeyguide Prodotiscus zambesiae
287. Wahlberg’s Honeyguide Prodotiscus regulus
288. Scaly-throated Honeyguide Indicator variegates
289. Greater Honeyguide Indicator indicator
290. Lesser Honeyguide Indicator minor
291. Eurasian Wryneck Jynx torquilla
292. Rufous-necked Wryneck Jynx ruficollis
293. Nubian Woodpecker Campethera nubica
294. e Abyssinian Woodpecker Dendropicos abyssinicus
295. Cardinal Woodpecker Dendropicos fuscescens
296. Bearded Woodpecker Dendropicos namaquus
297. Gray Woodpecker Dendropicos goertae
298. Gray-headed Woodpecker Dendropicos spodocephalus
299. Singing Bushlark Mirafra cantillans
300. White-tailed Lark Mirafra albicauda
301. Red-winged Lark Mirafra hypermetra
302. Flappet Lark Mirafra rufocinnamomea
303. e Gillett's Lark Mirafra gilletti
304. Foxy Lark Mirafra alopex
305. E Sidamo Lark Heteromirafra sidamoensis
306. Chestnut-backed Sparrow-Lark Eremopterix leucotis
307. Chestnut-headed Sparrow-Lark Eremopterix signata
308. e Erlanger´s (Red-capped) Lark Calandrella (cinerea) erlangeri
309. Somali Short-toed Lark Calandrella somalica
310. Thekla Lark Galerida theklae
311. E Brown (Black) Sawwing Psalidoprocne antinorii (pristoptera)
312. Gray-rumped Swallow Hirundo griseopyga
313. Bank Swallow Riparia riparia
314. Plain Martin Riparia paludicola
315. Barn Swallow Hirundo rustica
316. Red-chested Swallow Hirundo lucida
317. Wire-tailed Swallow Hirundo smithii
318. Ethiopian Swallow Hirundo aethiopica
319. E White-tailed Swallow Hirundo megaensis
320. Eurasian Crag-Martin Hirundo rupestris
321. Rock Martin Hirundo fuligula
322. House Martin Delichon urbica
323. Lesser Striped-Swallow Hirundo abyssinica
324. Mosque Swallow Hirundo senegalensis
325. Red-rumped Swallow Hirundo daurica
326. [e “Ethiopian” Cliff Swallow Petrochelidon sp. (undescribed)]
327. Plain-backed Pipit Anthus leucophrys
328. African Pipit Anthus cinnamomeus
329. Tawny Pipit Anthus campestris
330. Long-billed Pipit Anthus similes
331. Tree Pipit Anthus trivialis
332. Red-throated Pipit Anthus cervinus
333. E Abyssinian Longclaw Macronyx flavicollis
334. White Wagtail Motacilla alba
335. African Pied Wagtail Motacilla aguimp
336. Yellow Wagtail Motacilla flava
337. [Black-headed (Yellow) Wagtail Montacilla feldegg (flava)]
338. Gray Wagtail Motacilla cinerea
339. Mountain Wagtail Motacilla clara
340. White-breasted Cuckoo-shrike Coracina pectoralis
341. Gray Cuckoo-shrike Coracina caesia
342. Red-shouldered Cuckoo-shrike Campephaga phoenicea
343. Black Cuckoo-shrike Campephaga flava
344. Common Bulbul Pycnonotus barbatus
345. Northern Brownbul Phyllastrephus strepitans
346. Rufous-tailed Rock-Thrush Monticola saxatilis
347. Little Rock-Thrush Monticola rufocinereus
348. Blue Rock-Thrush Monticola solitarius
349. Abyssinian Ground-Thrush Zoothera piaggiae
350. Groundscraper Thrush Psophocichla litsipsirupa
351. Olive (Mountain) Thrush Turdus olivaceus (abyssinicus)
352. African Thrush Turdus pelios
353. African Bare-eyed Thrush Turdus tephronotus
354. Red-faced Cisticola Cisticola erythrops
355. Singing Cisticola Cisticola cantans
356. e Boran Cisticola Cisticola bodessa
357. Rattling Cisticola Cisticola chiniana
358. Ashy Cisticola Cisticola cinereolus
359. e Ethiopian (Winding) Cisticola Cisticola lugubris (galactotes)
360. Croaking Cisticola Cisticola natalensis
361. Foxy Cisticola Cisticola troglodytes
362. Tiny Cisticola Cisticola nanus
363. Zitting Cisticola Cisticola juncidis
364. Desert Cisticola Cisticola aridulus
365. Pectoral-patch Cisticola Cisticola brunnescens
366. Tawny-flanked Prinia Prinia subflava
367. Pale Prinia Prinia somalica
368. Yellow-breasted Apalis Apalis flavida
369. Red-fronted Warbler Urorhipis rufifrons
370. Green-backed Camaroptera Camaroptera brachyura
371. Gray Wren-Warbler Calamonastes simplex
372. African Bush-Warbler Bradypterus baboecala
373. Cinnamon Bracken-Warbler Bradypterus cinnamomeus
374. Sedge Warbler Acrocephalus schoenobaenus
375. Eurasian Reed-Warbler Acrocephalus scirpaceus
376. Marsh Warbler Acrocephalus palustris
377. Great Reed-Warbler Acrocephalus arundinaceus
378. Lesser Swamp-Warbler Acrocephalus gracilirostris
379. Olivaceous Warbler Hippolais pallida
380. Upcher's Warbler Hippolais languida
381. Olive-tree Warbler Hippolais olivetorum
382. Icterine Warbler Hippolais icterina
383. African Yellow Warbler Chloropeta natalensis
384. Buff-bellied Warbler Phyllolais pulchella
385. Yellow-bellied Eremomela Eremomela icteropygialis
386. Green-backed Eremomela Eremomela canescens
387. Northern Crombec Sylvietta brachyura
388. Red-faced Crombec Sylvietta whytii
389. e Somali Crombec Sylvietta isabellina
390. Brown Woodland-Warbler Phylloscopus umbrovirens
391. Willow Warbler Phylloscopus trochilus
392. Common Chiffchaff Phylloscopus collybita
393. Wood Warbler Phylloscopus sibilatrix
394. Blackcap Sylvia atricapilla
395. Garden Warbler Sylvia borin
396. Barred Warbler Sylvia nisoria
397. Greater Whitethroat Sylvia communis
398. Lesser Whitethroat Sylvia curruca
399. Brown Warbler Parisoma lugens
400. [E Bale (Brown) Warbler Parisoma griseaventris (lugens)]
401. Banded Warbler Parisoma boehmi
402. Pale Flycatcher Bradornis pallidus
403. African Gray Flycatcher Bradornis microrhynchus
404. e Abyssinian Slaty-Flycatcher Melaenornis chocolatinus
405. Northern Black-Flycatcher Melaenornis edolioides
406. Spotted Flycatcher Muscicapa striata
407. African Dusky Flycatcher Muscicapa adusta
408. Thrush Nightingale Luscinia luscinia
409. Common Nightingale Luscinia megarhynchos
410. Rueppell's Robin-Chat Cossypha semirufa
411. White-browed Robin-Chat Cossypha heuglini
412. Red-capped Robin-Chat Cossypha natalensis
413. Spotted Morning-Thrush Cichladusa guttata
414. Red-backed Scrub-Robin Cercotrichas leucophrys
415. Black Redstart Phoenicurus ochruros
416. Common Redstart Phoenicurus phoenicurus
417. Whinchat Saxicola rubetra
418. European Stonechat Saxicola rubicola
419. African Stonechat Saxicola torquata/albofasciata
420. Northern Wheatear Oenanthe oenanthe
421. e Abyssinian Black (Mourning) Wheatear Oenanthe lugens
422. Pied Wheatear Oenanthe pleschanka
423.
424. Black-eared Wheatear Oenanthe hispanica
425. Isabelline Wheatear Oenanthe isabellina
426. e Red-breasted Wheatear Oenanthe bottae
427. Familiar Chat Cercomela familiaris
428. Brown-tailed Chat Cercomela scotocerca
429. e Sombre Chat Cercomela dubia
430. Blackstart Cercomela melanura
431. Moorland Chat Cercomela sordida
432. e Rueppell's Chat Myrmecocichla melaena
433. Mocking Cliff-Chat Thamnolaea cinnamomeiventris
434. e White-winged Cliff-Chat Thamnolaea semirufa
435. Brown-throated Wattle-eye Platysteira cyanea
436. Gray-headed Batis Batis orientalis
437. Black-headed Batis Batis minor
438. Pygmy Batis Batis perkeo
439. African Paradise-Flycatcher Terpsiphone viridis
440. African Hill Babbler Illadopsis abyssinica
441. Scaly Chatterer Turdoides aylmeri
442. Rufous Chatterer Turdoides rubiginosus
443. e White-rumped Babbler Turdoides leucopygius
444. E Abyssinian Catbird Parophasma galinieri
445. White-winged Black-Tit Melaniparus leucomelas
446. e White-backed Black-Tit Melaniparus leuconotus
447. Somali Tit Melaniparus thruppi
448. Spotted Creeper Salpornis spilonotus
449. Mouse-colored Penduline-Tit Anthoscopus musculus
450.
451. Collared Sunbird Hedydipna collaris
452. Nile Valley Sunbird Hedydipna metallica
453. Western Olive Sunbird Byanomitra obscura
454. Scarlet-chested Sunbird Chalcomitra senegalensis
455. Hunter's Sunbird Chalcomitra hunteri
456. Tacazze Sunbird Nectarinia tacazze
457. Malachite Sunbird Nectarinia famosa
458. Beautiful Sunbird Cinnyris pulchellus
459. Mariqua Sunbird Cinnyris mariquensis
460. Black-bellied Sunbird Cinnyris nectarinioides
461. e Shining Sunbird Cinnyris habessinicus
462. Variable Sunbird Cinnyris venustus
463. African Yellow White-eye Zosterops senegalensis
464. Broad-ringed (Montane) White-eye Zosterops poliogaster
465. White-breasted (Abyssinian) White-eye Zosterops abyssinicus
466. e Dark-headed Oriole Oriolus monacha
467. African Black-headed Oriole Oriolus larvatus
468. Rufous-tailed Shrike Lanius isabellinus
469. Southern Gray Shrike Lanius meridionalis
470. Gray-backed Fiscal Lanius excubitoroides
471. Taita Fiscal Lanius dorsalis
472. Somali Fiscal Lanius somalicus
473. Common Fiscal Lanius collaris
474. Masked Shrike Lanius nubicus
475. Woodchat Shrike Lanius senator
476. White-rumped Shrike Eurocephalus rueppelli
477. Brubru Nilaus afer
478. Northern Puffback Dryoscopus gambensis
479. Pringle's Puffback Dryoscopus pringlii
480. Black-crowned Tchagra Tchagra senegala
481. Three-streaked Tchagra Tchagra jamesi
482. Red-naped Bushshrike Laniarius ruficeps
483. Tropical Boubou Laniarius aethiopicus
484. Slate-colored Boubou Laniarius funebris
485. Rosy-patched Bushshrike Rhodophoneus cruentus
486. Sulphur-breasted Bushshrike Telophorus sulfureopectus
487. Gray-headed Bushshrike Malaconotus blanchoti
488. White Helmetshrike Prionops plumatus
489. Fork-tailed Drongo Dicrurus adsimilis
490. E Stresemann's Bush-Crow Zavattariornis stresemanni
491. Redbilled Chough Pyrrhocorax pyrrhocorax
492. Cape Crow Corvus capensis
493. Pied Crow Corvus albus
494. Somali Crow Corvus edithae
495. Fan-tailed Raven Corvus rhipidurus
496. e Thick-billed Raven Corvus crassirostris
497. Wattled Starling Creatophora cinerea
498. Greater Blue-eared Glossy-Starling Lamprotornis chalybaeus
499. Lesser Blue-eared Glossy-Starling Lamprotornis chloropterus
500. Rueppell's Glossy-Starling Lamprotornis purpuropterus
501. Golden-breasted Starling Lamprotornis regius
502. Superb Starling Lamprotornis superbus
503. Shelley's Starling Lamprotornis shelleyi
504. Violet-backed Starling Cinnyricinclus leucogaster
505. White-crowned Starling Spreo albicapillus
506. Red-winged Starling Onychognathus morio
507. Slender-billed Starling Onychognathus tenuirostris
508. e Somali Starling Onychognathus blythii
509. Bristle-crowned Starling Onychognathus salvadorii
510. e White-billed Starling Onychognathus albirostris
511. Sharpe's Starling Pholia sharpii
512. Magpie Starling Speculipastor bicolor
513. Red-billed Oxpecker Buphagus erythrorhynchus
514. e Shelley's Rufous Sparrow Passer shelleyi
515. e Swainson's Sparrow Passer swainsonii
516. Yellow-spotted Petronia Petronia pyrgita
517. Bush Petronia Petronia dentate
518.
Red-billed
Buffalo-Weaver Bubalornis
519. White-headed Buffalo-Weaver Dinemellia dinemelli
520. Speckle-fronted Weaver Sporopipes frontalis
521. White-browed Sparrow-Weaver Plocepasser mahali
522. Gray-headed Social-Weaver Pseudonigrita arnaudi
523. Black-capped Social-Weaver Pseudonigrita cabanisi
524. Red-headed Weaver Anaplectes rubriceps
525. Baglafecht Weaver Ploceus baglafecht
526. Little Weaver Ploceus luteolus
527. Black-necked Weaver Ploceus nigricollis
528. Spectacled Weaver Ploceus ocularis
529. Lesser Masked-Weaver Ploceus intermedius
530. Vitelline Masked-Weaver Ploceus vitellinus
531. e Rueppell's Weaver Ploceus galbula
532. Village Weaver Ploceus cucullatus
533. Speke's Weaver Ploceus spekei
534. Salvadori’s Weaver Ploceus dichrocephalus
535. Red-billed Quelea Quelea quelea
536. Yellow-crowned Bishop Euplectes afer
537. Red Bishop Euplectes orix
538. Black-winged Bishop Euplectes hordeaceus
539. Yellow Bishop Euplectes capensis
540. Yellow-shouldered Widowbird Euplectes macrourus
541. White-winged Widowbird Euplectes albonotatus
542. Red-collared Widowbird Euplectes ardens
543. Grosbeak Weaver Amblyospiza albifrons
544. Yellow-bellied Waxbill Estrilda quartinia
545. Green-backed Twinspot Mandingoa nitidula
546. Abyssinian Crimson-wing Cryptospiza salvadorii
547. e Fawn-breasted Waxbill Estrilda paludicola
548. Crimson-rumped Waxbill Estrilda rhodopyga
549. Common Waxbill Estrilda astrild
550. Red-rumped Waxbill Estrilda charmosyna
551. Red-cheeked Cordonbleu Uraeginthus bengalus
552. Purple Grenadier Uraeginthus ianthinogaster
553. Green-winged Pytilia Pytilia melba
554. Red-billed Firefinch Lagonosticta senegala
555. African Firefinch Lagonosticta rubricata
556. Jameson's Firefinch Lagonosticta rhodopareia
557. Cut-throat Amadina fasciata
558. African Silverbill Lonchura cantans
559. Bronze Mannikin Lonchura cucullata
560. Black-and-white Mannikin Lonchura bicolor
561. Village Indigobird Vidua chalybeata
562. Straw-tailed Whydah Vidua fischeri
563. Pin-tailed Whydah Vidua macroura
564. Eastern Paradise-Whydah Vidua paradisaea
565. Steel-blue Whydah Vidua hypocherina
566. E Ankober Serin Serinus ankoberensis
567. Yellow-crowned Canary Serinus flavivertex
568. E Abyssinian Siskin Serinus nigriceps
569. e African Citril Serinus citrinelloides
570. Reichenow's Seedeater Serinus reichenowi
571. e Yellow-rumped Serin Serinus xanthopygius
572. Yellow-fronted Canary Serinus mozambicus
573. White-bellied Canary Serinus dorsostriatus
574. E Yellow-throated Serin Serinus flavigula
575. E Salvadori's Serin Serinus xantholaemus
576. e Northern Grosbeak-Canary Serinus donaldsoni
577. Streaky Seedeater Serinus striolatus
578. Reichard's Seedeater Serinus reichardi
579. Ortolan Bunting Emberiza hortulana
580. House Bunting Emberiza striolata
581. Cinnamon-breasted Bunting Emberiza tahapisi
582. Golden-breasted Bunting Emberiza flaviventris
583. Somali Bunting Emberiza poliopleura
Abreviations: E = Endemic; e = Near-endemic
Totals : 583 Bird species recorded (16 Endemic; 39 Near-endemic)
MAMMAL LIST
Based on Kingdon 1997
Guereza Colobus Colobus guereza (syn.C.abyssinicus)
Olive Baboon Papio anubis
Gelada Baboon Theropithecus gelada
Grivet Monkey Cercopithecus aethiops aethiops
Vervet Monkey Cercopithecus aethiops pygererythrus
Egyptian Fruit Bat Rousettus aegyptiacus
Giant Root Rat Tachyoryctes rex
Groove-toothed Rat Parotomys sp
Scrub Hare Lepus saxatilis hagani
Cape Hare Lepus capensis habessenicus
Starck´s Hare Lepus starcki
Unstriped Ground Squirrel Xerus rutilus
Striped Ground Squirrel Euxerus erythrops
Aardvark Orycteropus afer
Rock Hyrax Procavia habessinica
Red Rock Hyrax Procavia spp.
Yellow-spotted Hyrax Heterohyrax brucei
Hippopotamus Hippopotamus amphibius
Golden Jackal Canis aureus
Ethiopian Wolf Canis simensis
Bat-eared Fox Otocyon megalotis
Slender Mongoose Herpestes sanguinea
White-tailed Mongoose Ichneumia albicauda
Common Genet Genetta genetta
Serval Cat Felis serval
African Wild Cat Felis sylvestris
Leopard Panthera pardus
Grevy's Zebra Equus grevyi
Common Warthog Phacochoerus africanus
Desert Warthog Phacochoerus aethiopicus
Greater Kudu Tragelaphus strepsiceros
Lesser Kudu Tragelaphus imberbis
Mountain Nyala Tragelaphus buxtoni
Bushbuck Tragelaphus scriptus (meneliki)
Bush Duiker Sylvicapra grimmia abyssinica
Oribi Ourebia ourebi
Salt's Dik-dik Madoqua saltiana
Guenther’s Dik-dik Madoqua guentheri
Bohor Reedbuck Redunca redunca
Gerenuk Litocranius walleri
Soemmerring's Gazelle Gazella soemmerringi
Grants Gazelle Gazella granti
Beisa Oryx Oryx beisa
43 mammal species recorded