Leaders: Ken Behrens, with Robert Ntakor and William Apraku
All photos by Ken Behrens
Introduction:
Although
Ghana is a relatively unknown destination for birding tours, it is
quickly becoming the premier destination in West Africa. In contrast to
most of the other countries in the region, it is safe, and the people
are remarkably friendly. Its infrastructure is also exceptional, with
good hotels, restaurants, and roads through most of the country. In
terms of birding, Ghana a huge amount to offer. The southern
rainforests are a great place to find Upper Guinea
endemics (restricted to the rainforest west of Togo) as well as a full
range of West African forest species. Meanwhile, the northern portion
of Ghana lies in the Guinea savanna belt, with a completely different
set of birds. The most exceptional thing about Ghana from a birding
perspective is the list of 'marquee species' that it holds.
Foremost among these is Yellow-necked Picathartes, one of the most
spectacular and sought-after birds in the world. Ghana is the best
place to see this species, and sightings here are virtually guaranteed,
whereas stories of missing Cameroon's elusive Gray-necked Picathartes,
abound. Put simply, Ghana is the best place in the world to see a
Picathartes. In addition, African Finfoot is virtually guaranteed, and
Pel's Fishing-Owl is found on most trips. Egyptian Plover stands to
become a regular feature on this tour, after the confirmation of its
presence at a new site during scouting prior to this tour. Other
spectacular birds likely in Ghana include
Congo Serpent-Eagle, Long-tailed Hawk, White-spotted Flufftail, Guinea,
Yellow-billed, and Violet Turacos, Fraser's Eagle-Owl, Standard-winged
Nightjar, Chocolate-backed Kingfisher, Blue-headed, Red-throated, and
Rosy Bee-eaters, White-crested, Black Dwarf, Red-billed Dwarf,
Brown-cheeked, Black-casqued, and Yellow-casqued
Hornbills, Fire-bellied Woodpecker, Rufous-sided Broadbill,
Long-tailed Glossy-Starling, and Preuss's Weaver.
This
trip was highly successful, netting all of the 'marquee species'
mentioned above, along with a host of others. A total of 429 species
were seen, with a further 12 heard, making this the most successful
trip ever run to Ghana by any tour company. However, the success of
this trip was not only in the numbers. Despite spending half of the
trip in challenging rainforest habitat, there were very few birds
missed by any participant, and the number of heard-only birds was
remarkably low. Furthermore, there were very few species not seen well
by everyone on the trip. Time after time, the birds lingered just long
enough for everyone to have a look in the scope, or were located a
second time so that those who missed a first sighting had a second
change. Ghana may be the best place in the world to see rainforest
birds and to see them well; an experience here may startle those who have been to the
Amazon or elsewhere in West Africa, where dozens of species may be
heard-only, or perhaps glimpsed fleetingly.
The
trip began in the dry savanna east of Accra, then took in a lagoon
teeming with waterbirds, before plunging into the humid rainforests
west of Accra. After several superb days of birding Kakum National Park
and an intimate encounter with the indescribable Yellow-necked
Picithartes, we headed north to drier climes. A week in Mole National
Park and the Upper East region brought us a bounty of different
species. Three more days in additional rainforest sites provided
sightings of several species we had missed earlier. Returning to Accra,
we concluded a gloriously successful trip.
Top ten trip species, as voted by all participants:
Although
the start of the tour was planned for the evening of March 1, all of
the participants had arrived by the evening of February 28, so we began
the tour a day early to maximize birding time. An early departure
from Accra meant that the sun was rising over the Shai Hills as we
arrived. Although not high by the standards of a mountainous place,
these hills dominate the horizon west of Accra, and the dry savanna and
woodland that surround them hold a range of interesting bird
species. This reserve lies just inside the Dahomey Gap, the band of dry savanna
that isolates the Upper Guinea forests from the rest of Africa's humid
lowland forest.
White-crowned
(Mocking) Cliff-Chat, one of our prime targets, was quickly located on
a cliff face looming overhead. Shortly thereafter, we scoped a tree
full of the beautiful Violet Turaco - a critical sighting, as a photo
of this species graced the cover of our trip checklist! The array of
striking and spectacular bird species that we encountered was
staggering: Senegal Parrot, Swallow-tailed, White-throated, and Rosy
Bee-eaters, Green Woodhoopoe, Double-toothed Barbet, Snowy-crowned
Robin-Chat, Brown-throated Wattle-eye, Splendid Sunbird, Common
Gonolek, and Violet-backed Starling. Crippling views of a male
Red-shouldered Cuckoo-shrike only a few meters away capped a tremendous
morning. On the way back to
Accra, we added one more special bird - the odd, long-tailed
Yellow-billed Shrike, on the fence of Tema Harbor's coco storage
facility!
After
a mid-day rest, we again assembled for a trip to Sakumono Lagoon, which
is one of the best places in Ghana to see waterbirds despite its
proximity to a vast human population. As usual, the lagoon was carpeted
with Palearctic shorebirds, while terns danced over the ocean. Sakumono
highlights included Western Reef-Heron, a lone Pied Avocet, the
spectacularly elegant Collared Pratincole, lanky Black-tailed Godwit,
and both Common and Spotted Redshanks. Even the marsh sedges held birds
including Yellow-throated Longclaw. As the sun set over the Gulf of
Guinea, we enjoyed our first dinner together, having thoroughly enjoyed
our 'bonus day', and ready for what the rest of the trip would bring.
March 2, 2009
Along
the coast of Ghana lies a narrow strip of grassland and savanna that
holds some interesting birds. We accessed this biome at the Winneba
Plain. The morning's highlight for many was a male Black-bellied
Bustard that flushed as our bus drove into the plain, the circled and
crossed the road at close range, showing off its spectacular
black-and-white wing pattern. A couple members of the party who were
searching for a suitable 'bathroom bush' stumbled onto an excellent
flock of birds that kept us occupied for almost an hour! The skies over
the plain were enlivened by the wing drumming of Flappet Larks. One can
only speculate why Flappet Lark and a few cogeners diverged from the
rest of the larks, which are accomplished songsters, and decided
instead to broadcast their territories by rapidly snapping their wings
together! As the sun warmed the air, we visited a local restaurant
where a delicious breakfast buffet was waiting for us. A male Shikra
perched atop a nearby tree and watched us warily as we dined.
Having
thoroughly enjoyed some waterbirding the day before, and finding
ourselves with extra time, we decided to bird the Winneba Lagoon.
Maneuvering our bus along the narrow streets of a coastal village, we
found ourselves in an idyllic spot between the lagoon and the sea, with
towering palm trees providing shade. While some members of the group
scoured the lagoon for new shorebirds and terns (of which there were
several), others were more entertained by the antics of the local
children. A Malachite Kingfisher dashed in, shortly followed by an
equally colorful bird, the Broad-billed Roller. As we sat in the shade
sipping the milk of coconuts shared by the local people, we soaked in the
atmosphere of this beautiful village. Surrounded by simple houses made
from palms, there was little to suggest the existence of the 'modern
world'. One can't help but wonder whether concrete, rebar, and
corrugated tin are really improvements after seeing a place like this.
A
short drive along the coast brought us to Cape Coast, then north to our
hotel for the next four nights. Our target for the afternoon was
African Finfoot, a highly elusive bird that many travelling birders
have missed on multiple trips to Africa. Ghana is surely one of the
best places on the continent to see this species, and Brimsu Reservoir
is Ghana's premier site. As soon as we reached a viewpoint, we spotted
a Finfoot calmly paddling across the middle of the reservoir! We soon
spotted a second Finfoot, and enjoyed long looks of this normally
furtive bird.
Dusk
found us at a roosting site for the local Preuss's Cliff-Swallow, which
made an appearance after a brief wait. An evening rain shower held the
promise of good birding in the rainforest of Kakum National Park, as a
bit of precipitation during the night is always good for the next day's
birding.
March 3, 2009
Morning
dawned with the prospect of a bounty of rain forest birds. Our birding
site for the whole day was the canopy walkway of Kakum National Park,
in the heart of the great Upper Guinea forest. Kakum's walkway is
unique in Africa, and offers unparalleled chances to see forest canopy
species at eye level (or below!). We were able to enjoy both sunrise
and sunset from the heights of the walkway, and spotted an incredible
list of species. One undoubted highlight was a Congo Serpent-Eagle that
flew by at close range with a snake (or serpent...) in its talons.
Blue-throated Rollers sat in the same tree on which our platform was
anchored, and quickly chased away the Red-fronted Parrots that tried to
supplant them. A small colony of Yellow-mantled Weavers is suspended
close to one of the towers, and we enjoyed extensive looks at this
richly-colored species. Sunbirds were in profusion, and included
Scarlet-tufted, Little Green, Green, Olive-bellied, Tiny, and
Johanna's. Scarce species we sighted included Wilcock's Honeyguide,
Square-tailed Saw-wing, and Pale-fronted Negrofinch. At dusk, a large
flock of Black-casqued Hornbills flew in - a spectacular sight in
itself that was made even more remarkable by the presence of a
Yellow-casqued Hornbill with the Black-casqued. What could be
better than a flock of two species of massive hornbill perhed atop
towering rain forest trees of up to almost 200 feet tall! What a wonder
that such primeval giants persist in the age of the tractor and the
chain saw.
Other
highlights of our first day in the rain forest included Palm-nut
Vulture, Blue-headed Wood-Dove, African Pygmy Kingfisher, White-crested
Hornbill, Bristle-nosed and Naked-faced Barbets, Speckled and
Yellow-throated Tinkerbirds, Yellow-spotted and Hairy-breasted Barbets,
Fire-bellied Woodpecker, Yellow-browed Camaroptera, Green and
Lemon-bellied Crombec, Gray Longbill, Ussher's Flycatcher,
Chestnut-capped Flycatcher, Black-headed Paradise-Flycatcher,
Large-billed Puffback, Chestnut-winged Starling, Red-headed Malimbe,
and Gray-headed Negrofinch. The
birding on the trails below the canopy walkway was more challenging but
equally rewarding. We sighted a wide range of greenbuls, and enjoyed a
Rufous-sided Broadbill doing its 'fly-in-a-tight-circle-while-calling'
display flight.
Our
birding didn't stop at sunset, as Kakum holds some desirable nocturnal
species. A Brown Nightjar was spot-lighted, as was a Fraser's
Eagle-Owl, that flew in and sat a few feet over our heads - a great day
to end a spectacular day!
March 4, 2009
A
morning of birding at a remote section of Kakum was highly productive.
As we ate our packed breakfast and waited for some fog to clear, we
caught up with Red-rumped and Yellow-rumped Tinkerbirds and
Yellow-spotted Nicator. With the sun burning through the fog, we
quickly located Gray Parrot, Buff-throated and Superb Sunbirds, Gray's
Malimbe, and White-breasted Negrofinch. A small group of Black
Bee-eaters flew in and were watched through the scope for 15 minutes.
This species may be the most beautiful Bee-eater, though the
competition is fierce!
A
short walk brought us to a clearing in the forest that was buzzing with
birds and had a comfortably shaded bench-like downed tree. This is
where we spent almost the whole morning, as new bird after new bird
appeared. Another Congo Serpent-Eagle flew by at close range, then
attacked two Pied Hornbills, one of which became its next meal! A pair
of Dwarf Kingfishers appeared, offered great looks, then vaporized. One
tree in particular kept attracting great birds, including Eurasian
Wryneck, Rufous-crowned Eremomela, Violet-backed Hyliota,
Black-and-white Shrike-flycatcher, Tit-hylia, Bioko Batis, and
Chestnut-breasted Negrofinch! A pair of Buff-spotted Woodpeckers flew
into the shade tree right over our heads, while Rosy Bee-eaters circled through the clearing.
Along
the road on the drive out, a Bat Hawk circled, and this scarce bird was
seen by all. A late morning stop at a large river held the promise of
two special species - Rock Pratincole and White-tailed Blue Swallow.
Both were quickly located and seen well, along with bonuses Sabine's
Spinetail and Cassin's Flycatcher.
The
evening was spent on trails in Kakum National Park. The birding here
was challenging, though persistence gave us Chocolate-backed
Kingfisher, which was the 'bird of the day' for most of the group.
Another highlight was the secretive Forest Francolin.
March 5, 2009
This
day was reserved for catching up with species we hadn't yet encountered
in Kakum, and we spent the morning and afternoon hiking trails. Two
beautiful canopy species were seen after a bit of maneuvering -
Yellow-billed Barbet and Chestnut-bellied Helmetshrike. Extended scope
views of a White-crested Hornbill at eye level were a highlight for
many. Other special species included Levaillant's Cuckoo, Forest
Wood-hoopoe, Fanti Saw-wing, Finsch's Flycatcher-Thrush, Grey-throated
Tit-Flycatcher, and Shining Drongo. Telescope views of a Forest Robin
at close range were a satisfying end to a long struggle to see this gem
of a bird. We even saw another Yellow-casqued Hornbill!
The
middle of the day was a chance for some to photograph the Village,
Vieillot's, and Orange Weavers around Hans Cottage. Others opted for a
visit to the Cape Coast Castle, one of the most active slave dungeons
during the hundreds of grisly years during which Western Africa was
torn apart by the slave trading industry. The peace and friendliness of
modern Ghana stands in contrast to its often brutal past.
March 6, 2009
Although
this day dawned with the prospect of the Picathartes, we enjoyed a full
morning of forest birding in another section of Kakum before pursuing
the mythical beast. Soon after stepping off the bus, we spotted a
Black-throated Coucal, which sat in a bush and offered fantastic views.
Soon thereafter, we had a tremendous encounter with a White-spotted Flufftail at
no farther than 10 feet, at a spot that is uniquely suited to viewing
this shy bird. A Congo Serpent-Eagle called and flew by,
making this the third day in which we saw this rare species! Other
raptors included a perched Long-tailed Hawk and a Black Goshawk.
Although it wasn't easily seen, we eventually all had great views of
the frenetic African Piculet. A tree full of the Upper Guinea endemic
Copper-tailed Glossy-Starling was a fine sight, as was a flock of
Narrow-tailed Starlings that flew by. Just as some were thinking of
lunch and the air-conditioned bus, a Black Dwarf Hornbill dashed in.
Other highlights of a remarkably productive morning included African
Emerald Cuckoo, Black and Cassin's Spinetails, White-headed Woodhoopoe,
Cassin's Honeyguide, Whistling Cisticola, African Forest-Flycatcher,
Blue-headed Crested-Flycatcher, Superb Sunbird, another flock of
Chestnut-bellied Helmetshrikes, and Red-vented Malimbe.
Yellow-headed
Picathartes (or White-necked Rockfowl, if you prefer) is one of the
prime reasons why most birders visit Ghana. Few creatures have captured
birders' fascination like Africa's two species of Picathartes, which
comprise their own family. Since the recent rediscovery of Yellow-headed
Picathartes in Ghana, the country has emerged as the most dependable
and comfortable place in the world to see a member of this legendary
duo.
Our
Picathartes quest started in a small village where we were warmly
greeted by friendly local children. After picking up our local guides,
we began the one-hour hike to the nest site. This hike is very easy
except for the last 100 yards, which is a steep ascent. Thankfully, we
arrived early, and there was plenty of time for the whole group to
climb the hill at their own pace. We viewed and photographed the
Picathartes nests - mud cups plastered to a sheer rock face, then
settled onto a rock with a good view of the area. 45 minutes later, a
Picathartes appeared in typically silent manner, then sat in the tree
in front of us preening for 15 minutes! It is difficult to describe
what is like to see this bird. Few creatures whisper so poignantly of
past ages of the earth. There is something in the secretive nature of
the bird and its uniquely beautiful face that closely matches the deep
rain forests from which it arose. How long have Picathartes been
quietly carrying out their lives on this same piece of rock -
thousands of years, tens of thousands, or perhaps much longer?
Satisfied
with our tremendous experience with this incredible creature, we began
the hike down so as to arrive well before dark and to beat a rain storm
that was bearing down on the area. A short drive brought us to our
hotel in Kumasi, where we found Ghanain independence day festivities in
full swing. Thankfully, rooms on the back side of the hotel ensured a
peaceful night's sleep!
March 7, 2009
This
was mainly a travel day to the north and Mole National Park. As the
kilometers rolled by, we watched the humid forests and plantations of
Kumasi transition into much more arid broadleaf Guinea savanna. We were
driving into the heart of the savanna belt that we had tasted during
our first day's visit to Shai Hills. With the change of landscape came
new roadside birds like Grasshopper Buzzard, Wahlberg's Eagle, Red-throated
Bee-eater, and Abyssinian and Rufous-crowned Rollers.
Arriving
at Mole National Park's lodge in mid-afternoon, we enjoyed a rest, then
gathered to watch the sunset. The Mole Lodge is perched on a bluff with
a great view of a wetland below. We saw several new species here
including Wooly-necked Stork, Spur-winged Goose, Senegal Thick-knee,
Wattled Lapwing, and Long-tailed Glossy-Starling. A nest of Pygmy
Sunbird dangled a few feet over our heads, and was attended by a female
who dashed back and forth feeding the young while a glittering male
supervised from the treetop.
March 8, 2009
We
began what was to be our routine for the next three days in Mole: early
morning coffee and biscuits on the terrace overlooking the waterhole, a
morning hike, brunch, a long mid-day rest, then an afternoon drive and
hike. On the morning walk, the profusion of new birds was almost
bewildering. One after another, we found Greater Painted-Snipe,
Rose-ringed Parakeet, Blue-breasted Kingfisher, Giant Kingfisher,
Red-billed Hornbill, Gray Woodpecker, Northern Crombec, Yellow-breasted
Apalis, Gray Tit-Flycatcher, European Pied-Flycatcher, Senegal Batis,
Scarlet-chested and Beautiful Sunbirds, Purple Glossy-Starling,
Red-winged Pytilia, and Yellow-fronted Canary. Our main target for the
morning, and perhaps #2 target for the trip (after Picathartes) was
Pel's Fishing-Owl. Although it is always present, it can be difficult
to see, and I was keen to locate it on our first morning. At
mid-morning, we were delighted to encounter the big, ginger owl,
perched in a tree over our heads. This incredible bird was thoroughly
enjoyed, observed, and photographed.
As
the dry savanna heated up in
the late morning, we continued to spot new birds, including a juvenile
Martial Eagle that dwarfed the African Harrier-Hawks soaring with it. A
dapper Lizard Buzzard was seen well and enjoyed by all. Although the
Pel's was unanimously voted 'bird of the day', we also enjoyed an owl
at the other end of the size spectrum,
the Lilliputian Pearl-spotted Owlet. As we made our way back to the
lodge, we came upon a group of elephants bathing in a marsh. The
elephants in Mole are among the largest I have seen in Africa, but also
the most approachable, and experiencing these massive animals on
foot was a memorable experience.
A
well-earned brunch was enjoyed on the terrace, with raptors, swifts,
and swallows zooming overhead. Afterwards, most of the group retired to their
refreshingly air-conditioned rooms for a mid-day siesta.
An
afternoon walk in a different area brought us views of several new
birds, such as Square-tailed Drongo, Lavender Waxbill, and
Cinnamon-breasted Bunting. As the sun set, we were in place at the Mole
airstrip - a prime place for nocturnal species. Stone Partridges called
from all around, and one was eventually seen well. At some exact moment
rooted deep in the evolutionary biology of the species, five
Standard-winged Nightjars began displaying on the tarmac. A scan down
the airstrip revealed what appeared to be 15 birds, but was actually 5
nightjars with standards bounding irregularly behind them! This is one
of the strangest and most spectacular birds in the world, and we were
lucky to observe and photograph them from as close as 10 yards. The
last bird of the day was a White-throated Francolin that dashed out of
the gloom and into the beam of a spotlight.
March 9, 2009
Birding
an area at the edge of the national park gave us a range of wonderful
birds. Abdim's Storks and Northern Carmine Bee-eaters floated overhead,
as did a striking adult Bateleur. Bruce's Green-Pigeons perched for
long looks, while Red-headed Lovebird was more elusive, but was
eventually seen well by most. An undoubted highlight of the morning was
an African Blue-Flycatcher that greeted the morning sun with its tail
characteristically fanned, snatching insects from branches only a yard
over our heads. The elusive White-crowned Robin-Chat was finally scoped
and thoroughly enjoyed by all. A pair of Green-headed Sunbirds showed
well; the female of this species is surely one of the world's most
colorful female sunbirds! Blackcap Babbler had been vocal but elusive
at Shai Hills on the first day, so we were delighted to have a whole
group fly in and babble at us.
Our
terrace brunch was enhanced by two handsome raptors that flew by:
African Hawk-Eagle and Eurasian Hobby. An afternoon excursion was made
to a waterhole where dozens of Red-throated Bee-eaters nest; a tree
full of these stunning birds is an exhilarating sight. Other striking species we
located included Blue-bellied Roller, Black Scimitar-bill, and
Red-headed Weaver. As dusk fell, we sat in an open area and enjoyed a
proper South African 'sundowner' drink. African Scops-Owls started
singing around us as we drained the last of our Guinness and Stone (the
best of Ghanain beers in my opinion!). A pair of Spotted-Thick-knees
jumped off the road as we drove back to the hotel.
March 10, 2009
Although
we had already spent two days in Mole, an excursion deep into the park
ensured that the flow of new birds was uninterrupted. A grassy open
area held a Banded Snake-Eagle and Red-rumped Swallows. Spotted in
flight off in the distance, a White-breasted Cuckoo-shrike landed in
the perfect spot and was thoroughly viewed through the scope. A strong
candidate for 'bird of the day' was a stunning male Black-faced
Firefinch that sallied from a thicket to drink water at a small pool.
Also perched at the edge of a pool, but not so accomodating, were
several Black-faced Quailfinches. After having heard several African
Cuckoos, we finally enticed one into view. One of our targets for the
morning was a Forbes's Plover that had been reported by another birder
staying at the lodge. As we stood next to the pool where it had been
seen, an initial scan did not reveal any plovers. I spotted a Swamp
Flycatcher, which one group member had missed earlier. I put the bird
in the scope and called her to take a look. After viewing the bird, she
expressed delight and a bit of skepticism at the unexpected appearance
of this 'flycatcher'. When a second member of the group looked in the
scope with surprise, I decided to take a second look myself, only to
find that the Swamp Flycatcher had flown off, but the Forbes' Plover
had walked into the field of view! This beautiful bird, which is more
different from Three-banded Plover than most books suggest, allowed
close approach and good photos.
Brunch
on the terrace again gave us a good bird - White-rumped Swift this
time. Although we had nearly 'cleaned up' savanna species, our
afternoon walk was still highly enjoyable, with good looks at scarce
birds like Brown-backed Woodpecker, Spotted Creeper, and Gray-headed
Bushshrike.
Another
'sundowner' was enjoyed at a beautiful and peaceful spot in the bush,
with Long-tailed Nightjars singing all around us. A brief walk and some
spotlighting ensured that we all saw this species well.
March 11, 2009
This
was another travel day, from Mole NP to Bolgatanga in Ghana's far
northern Upper East region. The highlight of the morning was a White
Helmetshrike that teed up nicely. In west Africa, the crest of this
species reaches massive proportions, which shock those familiar with
the species in eastern and southern Africa!
On
an earlier scouting trip, Mark Williams, William Apraku, and I had
confirmed the presence of Egyptian Plover at a new site. This
spectacular species is scarce
across its range, and its reliable presence in Ghana adds yet another
'mega'
bird to this country's avian lineup. After arriving in Bolgatanga and
dropping our bags, we headed to the plover site. Moments after arrival,
a stunning Egyptian Plover was spotted. Careful scans of the
surrounding area revealed the presence of at least 10 plovers! This
species promises to be a regular feature of our Ghana tours in the
future. The plover had a strong supporting cast of interesting species
including Black-headed Lapwing, African Mourning-Dove, Eurasian
Turtle-Dove, and Red-chested Swallow. Despite (or perhaps as a result
of) having seen few foreigners, the local people were remarkably
friendly. We can only imagine what they thought of this troop of
'obruni' scanning the water intently, but their broad smiles showed
nothing but friendliness! As the sun set, we visited a colony of
White-billed Buffalo-Weavers, with a bonus African Silverbill perched
nearby.
March 12, 2009
This
day's birding was exclusively at the Tono Dam, with a brunch and siesta
between morning and evening visits. Although this site is in the same
Guinea savanna in which Mole lies, it is significantly drier, and holds
lots of different bird species. The lake itself was unusually
productive, with beautiful drake Northern Pintail and Garganey among
the hordes of White-faced Whistling-Ducks. Water Thick-Knee was seen
well and photographed. A falcon dashed by, and the consensus of the
guides was that it had been a Red-necked Falcon. We were gratified when
it zoomed back a few minutes later, and perched on top of a tree,
allowing everyone to see it well. Starlings were everywhere, and we
particularly enjoyed watching Bronze-tailed and Long-tailed
Glossy-Starlings and Chestnut-bellied Starling.
Other
morning highlights included Dark Chanting-Goshawk, Namaqua Dove, our
best views of Mottled Spinetail, a perched Giant Kingfisher,
Rufous-chested Swallow, Yellow-billed Shrike, and lots of Black-rumped
Waxbills. We were fortunate to experience an overcast morning - likely
a late Harmattan episode, which kept the temperatures cool and birds
active throughout the morning.
The
unusually cool temperatures continued for our afternoon visit, when we
birded a matrix of agricultural fields, marshes, and woodland that was
crawling with birds. A Winding Cisticola at close range received a
barrage of 'oos' and 'aahs' that is unusual for a cisticola! This is
truly a beautiful bird when you see it well, and I would contend that
this is the case with most cisticolas! Palearctic migrants that are
scarce for Ghana were seen, including Sedge and Western Olivaceous
Warblers. The marshes and canals supported lots of weavers, among which were
Black-headed and Vitelline Masked-Weavers. Scope views of a female
Greater Painted-Snipe at no more than 10 feet proved most satisfying
for one participant who had missed the bird earlier. Lingering until dusk, we observed Four-banded Sandgrouse flying about and a displaying Standard-winged Nightjar.
March 13, 2009
This
was primarily a travel day from the Upper East back to Kumasi, but we
worked in a morning stop at the Tongo Hills. This clump of inselbergs
has long been the sanctuary of a tribe that resisted all attempts at
religious change, and continues in the animistic beliefs they have held
for countless generations. Irrespective of the deity that hovers over
them, these rocky slopes are one of few places in Ghana to sight
several special bird species. One is the aptly-named Rock-loving
Cisticola, which was quickly spotted as it hopped from one object of
its affection to another. The beautiful Fox Kestrel was also quickly
located. Other sightings included African Hobby, White-rumped
Seedeater, and dozens of Cinnamon-breasted Buntings.
Driving
south, we observed the landscape changing back from dry Guinea
savanna to lush forest. The greens of Kumasi seemed decidedly garish
after the subdued grays and browns of the savanna in dry season. We
checked into our hotel in Kumasi, which is one of the best of the trip,
and even offers free wireless internet! An intense evening downpour
provided further evidence of our re-entry to a wetter climate.
March 14, 2009
Although
we had done remarkably well in the rainforest during the first week of
our trip, we had two additional days to visit the forest and locate
species that had been elusive earlier. We started at
Bobiri Butterfly Forest, near Kumasi. Narina Trogon was one of the
most-wanted birds for two of our group, so it was a high priority for
the morning. Almost as soon as we exited the bus, we heard one singing,
which was quickly joined by a second. A short walk and intense search
brought us spectacular views of the oddly bare-cheeked constantia
subspecies of Narina Trogon. Other interesting birds kept interfering
as we observed the trogon through the scope. Most notable were Little
Green Woodpecker and Purple-throated Cuckoo-shrike. A calling
Red-billed Dwarf Hornbill precipitated another dash into the forest,
eventually bringing us to within a few yards of this tiny hornbill,
whose bill glows as if lit from within, even in the dimmest
rainforest.
An
easy walk down a forest road brought us to more great birding.
Highlights included Afep Pigeon, Sabine's Spinetail, the rare
Yellow-footed Honeyguide, Chestnut-capped Flycatcher, Black-winged
Oriole, and Red-vented Malimbe. Although it had been glimpsed several
times, Blue-throated Brown Sunbird had eluded many participants, so
extended scope views were much appreciated. On the walk back, a
stunning Preuss's Weaver capped a great morning's birding. A fantastic
breakfast spread, including a generous heap of delicious local
pineapple, greeted us back at headquarters, where it was enjoyed in the
comfort of a breezy balcony.
A
short mid-day drive brought us close to Accra and the end of our trip,
though with much birding left to do. The afternoon excursion was to an
area of farm scrub that looks unimpressive but holds great birds.
Foremost among these were African Hobby, Dideric Cuckoo, Dusky-blue
Flycatcher, Brown-crowned Tchagra, and Western Bluebill.
March 15, 2009
Accessing
the Atewa Range, and its upper evergreen forest is a challenge that is
well worth the trouble. Climbing the range on this trip involved
enlisting the service of two Land Rovers and skirting some
recently-fallen trees. Minor problems surmounted, we found ourselves in
Atewa's beautiful forest, which has a distinctively different look and
feel from that of Kakum National Park. Brown-cheeked Hornbill had been
the only major 'miss' of the trip so far, and stuck out every time I
reviewed the list. Although it is scarce in Atewa, we were lucky to
spot a noisy pair, which came to land in the trees above our heads!
Yellow-billed Turaco had been another elusive species; we had heard it
many times, but not so much as glimpsed one. Again, our luck was good,
as everyone enjoyed views of this gorgeous, deep green turaco. Atewa
is the only known site in Ghana for Blue-headed Bee-eater, and we were
glad to find a pair of this species.
At mid-morning, the sky suddenly
darkened, the wind began gusting, and broad banks of misty clouds
rolled in. For a few moments, I felt like I was perched in Andean cloud
forest at 11,000 feet, rather than on Ghana's puny Atewa hills! We were
all bracing for a drenching, but the front dispersed as quickly as it
gathered, and we continued birding in renewed sunshine. Additional
highlights were Bronze-naped Pigeon, Ansorge's and Golden Greenbuls,
Bioko Batis, a spritely pair of Black-capped Apalis, Rufous-crowned
Eremomela, Ashy Flycatcher, and Maxwell's Black Weavers mobbing a green
mamba. Forest Scrub-Robin called from the forest depths, but could not
be lured into view.
As
we plunged back into Accra, we were again entertained by the vast array
of wares for sale on the streets. If the goods contained in a dozen Wal
Marts were doled out to an army of street salespeople, the chaos
would be no more spectacular. One gets the feeling that if stuck in
traffic in Accra long enough, every conceivable product available in
the world would eventually parade by!
For
the afternoon, some chose to stay in the comfortable confines of our
beachside hotel, while other ventured out for a final visit to
Sakumono Lagoon. The birding here was again excellent. The flocks of
shorebirds contained Black-tailed Godwits, Spotted Redshank, and Ruff
that were in full breeding plumage, promising color and life to
northern lands still locked in winter. It is hard to conceive that a
shorebird picking at the mud of the Gulf of Guinea in mid-March might
have a nest full of young in Finland within 8 or 9 weeks. Sighting a
Black Coucal was gratifying for one participant, who had missed
this species on multiple trips to Africa.
March 16, 2009
The
final morning of the tour was spent at Shai Hills Reserve, where the
tour had begun over two weeks previous. The morning was surprisingly
quite, making us realize how exceptional the birding had been for most
of the trip. Nonetheless, some fine species were located. Foremost
among these was Guinea Turaco, which had previously only been heard. A
huge covey of half-grown Stone Partridges erupted from the trail-side
to the entertainment of all. Final encounters with spectacular species
like Violet Turaco and Snowy-crowned Robin-Chat were also welcome.
At
a final lunch, we completed the final column of our list, exchanged
e-mail addresses, plotted future travels, and said our good-bys. Every
member of our party had enjoyed every day of travel - amazing birds,
great companionship, and the friendly and welcoming country of Ghana.
For myself, I can't wait to return to Ghana and guide another trip.
Although this trip sets the bar very high, I am confident that the next
Tropical Birding trip to this country can do just as well!
BIRD
LIST
This list includes
all the bird species that were recorded by at least one of the participants. Taxonomy and
nomenclature follow: Clements, James F. 2007. The Clements
Checklist of Birds of the World, Sixth Edition.Ithaca, NY: CornellUniversity Press. H denotes a bird that was heard and not seen.
GREBES: Podicipedidae Little Grebe Tachybaptus ruficollis
SANDPIPERS: Scolopacidae Black-tailed Godwit Limosa limosa Bar-tailed Godwit Limosa lapponica Whimbrel Numenius phaeopus Common Sandpiper Actitis hypoleucos Spotted Redshank Tringa erythropus Common Greenshank Tringa nebularia Marsh Sandpiper Tringa stagnatilis Wood Sandpiper Tringa glareola Common Redshank Tringa totanus Ruddy Turnstone Arenaria interpres Red Knot Calidris canutus Sanderling Calidris alba Little Stint Calidris minuta Curlew Sandpiper Calidris ferruginea Ruff Philomachus pugnax
TERNS: Sternidae Little Tern Sternula albifrons Black Tern Chlidonias niger Common Tern Sterna hirundo Royal Tern Thalasseus maximus Sandwich Tern Thalasseus sandvicensis
NIGHTJARS: Caprimulgidae Brown Nightjar Caprimulgus binotatus Black-shouldered Nightjar Caprimulgus nigriscapularis H Long-tailed Nightjar Caprimulgus climacurus Standard-winged Nightjar Macrodipteryx longipennis
SWIFTS: Apodidae Black Spinetail Telacanthura melanopygia Sabine's Spinetail Rhaphidura sabini Cassin's Spinetail Neafrapus cassini African Palm-Swift Cypsiurus parvus Mottled Swift Tachymarptis aequatorialis Common Swift Apus apus Little Swift Apus affinis White-rumped Swift Apus caffer