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South America: The Introtour |
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South America: The Introtour |
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Itinerary:
2 November: Arrival, night Quito.
3 November: Yanacocha Reserve, Old Nono-Mindo Rd.
4 November: Tandayapa Valley.
5 November: Milpe Bird Reserve, San Miguel de los Bancos, Old Nono-Mindo Rd.
6 November: Tandayapa Valley.
7 November: Rio Silanche Bird Reserve (Pedro Vicente Maldonado).
8 November: Paz de las Aves Refuge, Tandayapa Bird Lodge, Return to Quito.
9 November: Departure.
Tour Summary:
3 November: We left Quito just before dawn and set out for Yanacocha, located on the west side of Pichincha Volcano. Before we even got to the reserve, we made a very productive stop in the open high country and had great looks at Giant Hummingbird. Arriving at the reserve, we started along the main track running through the low temperate forest and didn't get far before a spectacular male Barred Fruiteater flew right in front of us and perched for everyone to see. The mixed flocks we encountered produced many tanagers, including Scarlet-bellied, Hooded, and Black-chested Mountain-Tanager. We also saw seven species of hummingbirds well, including Shining Sunbeam and Sword-billed Hummingbird. As we watched our first Sword-billed deftly maneuvering around the pufflegs and starfrontlets, it was apparent from the exclamations of disbelief that the group had not been adequately prepared for just how long this bird's bill is!
The weather stayed mostly clear for the entire morning, and just before lunch we were surprised to find a couple of Andean Guans foraging near the trail. During the afternoon we birded along the back roads on our way down to the Tandayapa Valley. Red-crested Cotinga and Tufted Tit-Tyrant were among the highlights in the open, mostly-agricultural habitat of the temperate zone, and as we descended the lushly forested Alambi Valley along the old Nono-Mindo road, we were delighted by good looks at a Slaty-backed Chat-Tyrant beside the river. By mid afternoon we had arrived at an active Andean Cock-of-the-Rock lek, where we enjoyed watching the males' display antics and listening to their bizarre screeching sounds. With just enough daylight left we arrived at our base for the tour, Tandayapa Bird Lodge, and had our first looks at the hummingbird spectacle on the patio. When the day was done, we had recorded 22 species of hummingbirds, a nearly overwhelming total for a group of newcomers to South America!
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4 November: Day two started with a visit to the understory blind near the lodge, where we had knock-out looks at Masked Trogon and Immaculate Antbird, among others. Upon leaving the blind, a Collared Forest-Falcon hunting in the forest understory caught us all off guard. Everyone had a good look at this secretive bird perched over the trail before it flew off. Moments later we had a chance to admire the stunning Blue-winged Mountain-Tanagers and a busy Streak-capped Treehunter just outside the lodge. After a quick breakfast we hit the trails and soon turned up a couple of brilliant Golden-winged Manakins flitting actively from perch to perch.
A few hours of listening to the charming carol of Andean Solitaire had left us really wanting to see one, and by locating a singing bird a little further up the trail we were finally able to match a face to the phantom voice! Nearby, we had our first looks at Scaled Fruiteater and Crimson-mantled Woodpecker. In the afternoon we spent some more time marvelling at the hummingbirds swarming the feeders, such as Brown Inca, Booted Racket-tail, Tawny-bellied Hermit, and Western Emerald, and then we headed for the upper valley. The wet weather kept us from accomplishing much, but a striking Collared Inca compensated us for our efforts.
5 November: Descending to the foothills, our main destination today was the Milpe Bird Reserve. As the early morning fog lifted, we started out birding along the road, where the top target bird was the localized Moss-backed Tanager. The tanager didn't show up but we did find Roadside Hawk, Chocó Toucan, and an astonishingly bright Swallow-Tanager. Once in the reserve, we spent a few hours walking on the trails where the some of the highlights were Rufous-throated, and Glistening-green Tanagers, Russet Antshrike, and the scarce Pale-vented Thrush. Between mixed flocks we also had a chance to witness many Club-winged Manakins performing their fantastic wing-lift display. Late in the morning, while the rest of us were fumbling around trying to see a Yellow-bellied Seedeater, Lois finally spotted the hoped-for Moss-backed Tanager, perched right in front of our noses!
For lunch we drove to the nearby town of San Miguel de los Bancos and a restaurant with famous fruit feeders. Our first Crimson-rumped Toucanet of the trip was among the visitors to the feeders, and we also picked up Black-winged Saltator and Ecuadorian Thrush from the back deck. The birding was great, and so was the fresh naranjilla juice. Late in the afternoon we did some birding along the old Nono-Mindo road above San Tadeo. With a little playback, we enticed a calling Barred Forest-Falcon to leave the cover of the forest and fly right over our heads! A few minutes later, a pair of Powerful Woodpeckers showed well in the fading light, providing a satisfying end to the day.
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6 November: Our morning was spent birding the upper Tandayapa Valley's lush cloud forests. Driving up the valley just after dawn, we stopped to make a try for a singing Striped Treehunter. The treehunter proved elusive, but we did find one of our targets for the day, the many-colored Plate-billed Mountain-Toucan. Before driving much further we found a group of noisy Turquoise Jays, and a Plain-tailed Wren obliged us by emerging from cover for a moment, giving us a nice open look at this skulker. Good roadside birding continued when a bit beyond the pass we encountered a group of attractive Rufous-chested Tanagers moving with a small mixed flock, and a Gorgeted Sunangel perched in the open for all to see.
By mid-morning we were walking along the research station road and we soon found ourselves in the middle of a mixed flock that included Western Hemispingus and Plushcap, both foraging in the Chusqea bamboo. As we attempted to sift through the flock, a group of Toucan Barbets seemed to be moving all around us, proving a continual and welcome distraction. The weather stayed dry, and the butterflying was also good, so when the birding was slow, we were still able to stay busy! Further on we found a couple more bamboo-dwellers, Yellow-bellied Chat-Tyrant and Long-tailed Antbird, and we finally found our Striped Treehunter toward the end of the morning. John also picked up a perched Speckled Hummingbird that no one else could find and we all admired the bird from close range as it sang tirelessly. After lunch at the lodge, we set out on the trails, determined to find some of the more secretive birds that we had missed the day before. It took a solid half hour of effort, but in the end everyone had good looks at Rufous-breasted Antthrush, a specialty of the area.
7 November: After a very early breakfast we were on our way to the Rio Silanche Reserve in the lowlands. A quick refuelling stop in Pedro Vicente Maldonado produced Masked Water-Tyrant and Pacific Hornero, and before long we made the turn off the main highway toward the reserve. Along the entrance road a pair of Blue-headed Parrots amused us by literally flying in circles, and a distant Gray-headed Kite perched just long enough for scope looks. We also were able to call in a pair of Barred Puffbirds; at first reluctant, they eventually flew in and sat right by the road. In the end we had to walk away! Arriving at the reserve, we knew it was shaping up to be a good day when we immediately bumped into first a very excitable Western Woodhaunter, and then a White-whiskered Puffbird that flew right in front of us and perched for prolonged scope views. By late morning, the action was fast and furious, and we spent over an hour with a huge mixed flock that included Griscom's and White-flanked Antwrens, Scarlet-rumped Cacique, Olivaceous Piculet and Orange-fronted Barbet. Walking along the forest edge, Ben spotted a Rufous Motmot perched in the open, a nice treat for the middle of the day. This was a great relief for the entire group since it was the #1 most hoped-for bird of the trip for Ben, who had been talking about motmots since day one! We all had brief but satisfying looks, and the bird vanished as abruptly as it had appeared.
Next we grabbed our lunches and climbed up into the canopy tower to relax for a bit. Four Swallow-tailed Kites entertained us by gliding effortlessly around the tower, and we watched a Blue Dacnis building her soft cup nest in the closest tree to the platform, just above eye level. A tanager feeding flock that contained several common species such as Bay-headed and White-shouldered also held a beautiful Rufous-winged. After returning to ground level, we found a Guayaquil Woodpecker, the last of six species of woodpeckers for the day, and as we were getting ready to leave we discovered that Dave had picked up a Rufous-tailed Jacamar while sound recording near the reserve entrance. After a little bit of effort, we were able to call the bird up for a brief look, and then it was time to hit the road. On the drive out, we stopped to admire a pair of Bat Falcons, perched together on a high snag above the road. It was hard to pull ourselves away and head back to the lodge; there are never enough hours in a day at Rio Silanche!
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7 November: We spent our last morning at the now-famous Paz de las Aves Refuge, hoping to see our first antpittas of the trip. We were not disappointed, as Angel Paz and his brother Rodrigo summoned first a Yellow-breasted Antpitta ("Willie") and then a spectacular Giant Antpitta ("Maria"), both attracted by the worms provided for them. We also had a family of Dark-backed Wood-Quail almost close enough to touch, and found a pair of Olivaceous Pihas foraging along one of the trails. A responsive Nariño Tapaculo that came out into the open was the loan representative of this difficult-to-see family that we managed to see on the tour. At the refuge hummingbird feeders, we watched impressive Empress Brilliants feeding alongside a stunning Velvet-purple Coronet, Cathy's 31st "favorite hummingbird" of the trip. An Osprey gliding south was a strange sight at 1,900 meters in the Andes. By mid-morning we were getting pretty hungry, but fortunately Angel feeds the birders too! After a delicious mid-morning snack of café con bolones, we headed back to Tandayapa, arriving just in time for... lunch!
A few more hours enjoying the hummingbirds and birding around the lodge, and we were on our way back to Quito for our farewell dinner, the end to a successful tour.
