MADAGASCAR
Birding the Eighth Continent
North
West Extension 1-4 October 2005
Main
Tour 5-21 October 2005
Guides: Christian Boix and Steve Blain
Participants: Ian Fulton, John Anderson, Ferdy Hieselaar, David Corner, Guo Fang Tseng, Mr Huang, Murray Lord, David Stewart, Robert and Nancy Dean, Sonia Jupp
Scaly Ground Roller in Mantadia NP- Last but not least!!
Itinerary:
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October 1 |
Antananarivo flight to Mahajunga and drive to Ampijoroa |
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October 2 |
Ampijoroa Forest Station |
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October 3 |
Ampijoroa Forest Station |
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October 4 |
Ampijoroa Forest Station to Mahajunga |
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October 5 |
Betsiboka Delta and Cirque Rouge, fly back to Antananarivo |
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October 6 |
Antananarivo to Ambohitantely Forest Reserve and
back to Tana |
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October 7 |
Tana to Ifaty |
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October 8 |
Ifaty |
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October 9 |
Ifaty |
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October 10 |
Ifaty to Saint Augustine |
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October 11 |
St. Augustine to Nosy Ve |
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October 12 |
St. Augustine to Isalo via Zombitse Forest |
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October 13 |
Isalo to Fianarantsoa |
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October 14 |
Ranomafana |
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October 15 |
Ranomafana |
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October 16 |
Ranomafana to Antsirabe |
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October 17 |
Antsirabe to Vakona |
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October 18 |
Mantadia NP and Perinet Reserve |
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October 19 |
Mantadia NP and Perinet Reserve |
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October 20 |
Mantadia NP and Perinet Reserve |
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October 21 |
Andasibe to Antananarivo |
Tour
Diary- Highlights
October 1st
Tana to Ampijoroa via Amboromalandy Lake: After breakfast we transfer to the
Airport and whilst waiting our flight we rack up Mascarene Martin, Madagascar
Kestrel, Madagascar Wagtail, Madagascar Fody, Souimanga Sunbird and as a
surprise, Madagascar Pratincole. Shortly
after landing in Mahajunga we were on our way to Ampijoroa and increasing our
tally with roadside specials such as Madagascar Lark, Madagascar Cisticola,
Madagascar Buzzard, Sakalava Weaver, Madagascar Coucal Madagascar Black Swift, and
careful studied looks at the local race of Namaqua Dove ssp. hova and African Palm Swift ssp. gracilis. The rice paddies near Amboromalandy were thronged
with Common Squacco, Glossy Ibises, Black Egrets and both morphs of Dimorphic
Egrets allowing for convenient comparisons.
Whilst reaching our picnic spot near
Amboromalandy Lake we flush a Madagascar Buttonquail and a resting flock of Madagascar
Munias. From the lakes shore we scope a two endemics, Madagascar Jacana and Madagascar
Kingfisher as well as Comb Duck, Whiskered Terns and several White-winged Terns
and the second surprise of the day an immaculate Gull-billed Tern…second record
to my knowledge for Amboromalandy. When
nothing appeared to move under the searing heat, we entertained ourselves with
the polymorphic variations of Brown-throated Martin ssp cowani.
Soon after reaching
Ampijoroa we set off birding into the shades and cooler afternoon. The walk was well balanced in rewards and
soon had us all sprawled on the ground enjoying cracking views of Red-capped
Coua and Coquerel´s Coua walking past at 3-4 meters away from us (see photo right), and Madagascar Turtle
Dove seemingly always leading the way on the tracks ahead of us. Breaking the
peace, screeching squadrons of Greater and Lesser Vasa Parrot flew by, and the teasing
wailings of Madagascar Cuckoo Roller and distant Van Dams Vanga kept a spring
on our step. By latching onto several
bird parties we managed to rack up Crested Coua, Ashy Cuckoo-shrike, Madagascar
Bulbul, Common Newtonia, Madagascar Magpie Robin, Madagascar Paradise
Flycatcher, Madagascar White Eye, the handsome Chabert’s Vanga and elegant
Crested Drongo.
The climbing and leaping prowess of
both Brown and Coquerel’s Sifaka, captivated our attention and imagination in
several occasions. Before exiting the
forest we teased-in a group of 4 White-breasted Mesites that complied in text
book manner and showed themselves within a foots distance of our bins and
cameras…their loud calls muffling our hearing after they trudged past When our
hearing recovered the bill snaps of a Rufous Vanga were heard up the path and
Ndrema, placed us within meters of where the calls may have come from…. a few
whistles later a stunning male and female glided in for everyone’s’ enjoyment.
After supper a few of us took it
further with a night walk that yielded Torotoroka Scops Owl (heard), Madagascar
Nightjar, Grey Mouse Lemur, Common Brown Lemur and Western Avahi.
October 2nd
Ampijoroa Forest Station: Whilst gathering for breakfast a Madagascar Cuckoo Hawk put
up a furtive appearance for a select few.
Flocks of darting Grey headed Lovebirds brought the camp alive and an
active nest of Madagascar Green Pigeon became target of choice for the photographers.
A stunning male of White-headed Vanga a flock of Sickle Billed Vangas brought
the house down. Tame Madagascar Hoopoes weaved through the group as we admired
Madagascar Green Sunbirds feeding above our heads on Albizia inflorescences.
A brief stop at Lake produced a good
looking adult of Madagascar Pond Heron and a perched Hum blot’s Heron. White
throated Rails were enticed to sit out on a stump and scream their head off, after
some clever playback teasing. A pair of Hookbilled Vangas displayed nearby and allowed
us to catch several glimpses of the white spot that adorns the tip of the upper
mandible-a feature that has never been illustrated in any bird guide. A walk
through moister woodland allowed us to enjoy good views of Blue Vanga,
Longbilled Greenbul, Madagascar Sparrowhawk and Madagascar Little Grebe.
After Lunch, in the heat of the day,
we gathered under the large jack fruit trees that shade the lakes edge and scoped
out a few cracker-jacks for good measure…such as African Openbill (which in fact is an Asian subspecies!!),
Madagascar Harrier Hawk and to the delights of everyone present the Critically
Endangered Madagascar Fish Eagle…which sat for hours, JUST FOR US, across the
lake.
Afternoon birding resumed, and again
Van Dams Vanga was targeted, second views of this powerful looking Vanga were
obtained pretty soon, albeit the group had spread along the path and some got
late views of it...the search continued. More White-breasted Mesites were met
and a stunning spot by Ndrema got us all shivering views of a perched France’s
Sparrowhawk. Very fresh footprints of
Fossa (Cryptofossa ferox) provide a
few minutes of excitement.
Most of the group joined the night
walk tonight and caught up with Madagascar Nightjar, but Torotoroka Scops Owl
continued to play hard, none the less we found a sleeping Oustaledt´s Chameleon,
Western Avahi, Grey Mouse Lemurs, Tough tailed rat, and heard the whistles of
Milne Edwards Sportive Lemurs.
October 3rd Ampijoroa Forest Station: The day started with unbeatable
scope views of a female Henst´s Goshawk in the nest and several views of
Schlegel’s Asity (see photo right).
The latter being rather frustrating, initially flitting over us near the canopy
and eventually coming down and putting up a good show. The photographers had a
fun filled day with yet another group of White-breasted Mesites moving through
the leaf litter and a Milne-Edwards Sportive Lemur sunning at his cavity
entrance. On exiting the forest a pair
of Madagascar Cuckoo Rollers called, rolled and floated in front of us catching
almost everyone by surprise as per the true size of this mega roller!!
During lunch we discovered the
mining culprit of the craterlike holes that dot the parking lot- an enormous ground
cricket. But its daring surfacing was
no match to the speed with which a nearby Iguanid rose from the dead, darted across
the parking lot and gulped the unexpecting cricket out of its misery.
During the afternoon outing we came
across Madagascar Brush Warbler, a nearly iridescent green Madagascar Day Gecko
Phelsuma madagascariensis, better
looks of Madagascar Sparrowhawk soaring, placid looks of Coquerel´s Coua
feeding on a 30cm long phasmid -stick insect!!, a Milne Edwards Sportive lemur
baby snuggly fitted into a Fossa proof tree cavity, and near the lake we caught
up again with both adult Madagascar Fish Eagles and the years fledging,
perched, feeding and bathing placidly.
A last night outing got us finally Torotoroka
Scops Owl, the recently discovered and great looking Golden Mouse Lemur, an
unexpectedly calm and feeding Fat-tailed Dwarf Lemur, loads of white fluffy
aphids, several species of chameleons and a roosting Madagascar Kingfisher.
October 4th
Ampijoroa to Mahajunga : Our last morning in Ampijoroa could not have started better,
with a Banded Kestrel joining us for breakfast, perched above the restaurant. A
final walk on the higher and drier reaches of the reserve yielded the best
views yet of a pair of Van Dam’s Vangas, whose silence over the past two days
we know discovered was due to the fact that they had been building a nest and been
busy using their beaks and time. Elated
with the sightings the group trotted gingerly through the narrow trails,
unfortunately still in post-twitching glamour state, and no one was fast enough
to set glass on a pair of Crested Ibis that hoofed it ahead of us off the trail
and into thick brush. Only those up front and those who recognized what they
were looking at managed to understand what just happened. In similar fashion a Madagascar Lesser
Cuckoo, overtook us sideways, the first sighting of the year for Ndrema. Before lunch we enjoyed the mesmerizing slitherings
of a Giant Hog-snout Snake.
After lunch we left for Mahajunga,
aiming for a cooler stop at Amboromalandy Lake. Walking the lake edge we
spotted eight Painted Snipes, Wood Sandpiper, Kittlitz´s Plover, Greenshank, flocks
of Curlew Sandpiper, Hottentot Teals and a group of dazzling African Pigmy
Goose. Leaving Amboromalandy a dark grey, long winged Falcon tore in front of
the bus and although it oozed Sooty falcon gist…it never re-appeared. We reached Mahajunga at dark, had supper and
hit the sack after doing the list.
October 5th
Betsiboka Delta and Cirque rouge: We had yet to organize ourselves on the boat when the
need to scramble and steady
ourselves emerged in order to get best views of a flock of Lesser Crested Terns
and Little/Saunders Terns feeding on the retiring tide. Slicing the choppy waters mercilessly our
skipper got us in record time to the mangrove stands where the dwindling and
endangered Bernier’s Teal likes hanging out when muddy mangrove bottoms get exposed.
No sooner had the engines roared down, Nancy yelped…GOTTIT and there where the
first pair of 30+ teals to be seen that morning. In the nearby mudflats fed calmly the second of our most wanted
quarries the immaculate Madagascar Sacred Ibis, other waders here included Whimbrels,
Little Stint, Common Ringed Plover, Greater Sand Plover, White fronted Plover
and nine different Terek Sandpipers. A
flock of Lesser Flamingoes added color to the morning tally. As the tide started to recede we fled speedily
and returned to our hotel for lunch, a chill in the pool and those keen for
more, a short visit to the nearby Cirque Rouge…which although stank of
Peregrine habitation…these were nowhere to be seen, possibly still hunting in
town. Later we transferred to the
airport and returned to Tana where supper was had with the participants joining
us for the main tour. Over supper we agreed
on an escapade to Ambohitantely the following day, after Christian had sourced
out the whereabouts of a Madagascar Harrier nest.
Dave Stewart and Murray Lord
reported seeing a probable Sooty Falcon flying above Tana near the palace….the
same bird using that roost was seen by the group a week before and subsequent
tours during 2005.
October 6th Ambohitantely Forest Reserve: An early start was needed
to avoid the traffic leaving Tana. We had yet to reach the Forest Reserve when
a stunning male of Madagascar Harrier was spotted quartering the slopes of a
grassy valley below the road offering good and prolonged views to all. A brief stop at a healthy looking marsh
allowed the new coming participants to catch up with a good dozen new endemics
and views of Madagascar Little Grebe and a Madagascar Harrier threesome over
the marsh.
Ambohitantely surprised us with a
handsome list full of cool sightings such as Cuckoo Roller, Madagascar Lesser
Cuckoo, Red-tailed Vanga, Madagascar Bee-eater, (see photo right) Madagascar Blue Vanga, Madagascar Fluftail
screaming at our shoelaces (heard only), Common Sunbird Asity hissing above our
heads and many funny looking Stonechats. The Harrier nest we came to see was
found, but never approached as the pair was spotted flying over it in full
view. The place oozed potential, but unfortunately had to start making tracks
back to Tana and left shortly after lunch.
A single Madagascar Pratincole was spotted by John as we drove over a
rocky stream. Returning to Tana, more
Harriers kept on appearing over, next to the road and all over the show with a harrier
count that exceeded 15 individuals, the group wondered what the guides’
preoccupation with the species was…and I still struggle to believe our luck!!
At a large artificial water body we
added Three-banded Plover to our list and spotted miles away a Madagascar
Snipe, which was quickly approached and soon enjoyed by all with brilliant
scope views as it fed on a marshy edge of the lake.
We all retired early after supper to
pack and get ready for the following day.
October 7th
Antananarivo to Ifaty: After a faultless flight we landed in Tulear and headed straight
for the Tulear mudflats. No Crab Plovers on sight and pretty much the same
composition of species as in Betsiboka although Christian was particularly
excited with the Eurasian form of Curlew.
Several stops along the shoreline on
the way in to Ifaty added Caspian Tern, Grey-headed Gull and Mongolian Plover.
Good views of another Humblot´s Heron were enjoyed by everyone.
After settling in and
enjoying a late yet refreshing lunch, we headed out to Mangily to meet Musa and
his family. After agreeing on the targets, guides and tracker teams were
deployed and the group set off to bag its first quarry. Before anyone expected it we were all over
each other, mangled, mingling and soaking up unbeatable views of a Long-tailed
Ground Roller (see photo right). The
bird played along staying in the area for over half an hour watching our every
move, darting supersonically out of sight and re-appearing meters away…always cryptically
concealed against its back ground and frozen still. Flash, shutters, gasps,
tears ensued and slowly one after the other we retreated to a safe distance and
took stock of the situation after cracking this Mega lifer. The afternoon was relatively quiet yet we still
caught up with Sub desert Brush Warbler and a very active Thamnornis Warbler, a
stunning Banded Kestrel perched atop a Didiera, the maxima race of Crested Coua and their explosive and contagious
contact calling as the sun sets and a very positive response to Madagascar
Nightjar playback, which gathered no less than three individuals milling above
our heads.
October 8th Ifaty:After pondering why the French call toast,
jam and black coffee-breakfast, we set off into the spiny desert and birded the
forest as it woke up. Sub-Desert warblers clicked in alarm as we walked past,
Red-tailed Vangas bathed on coastal dew and our first morning lifer emerged as
an Archbold's Newtonia tore in after two strophes of playback. An active flurry
of Sickle-billed Vangas was relished by all. Soon after, a “treed” Running Coua
allowed everyone to enjoy the beauty and tameness of this smart looking species. Nearby the master of crypsis, a Sub-desert
Mesite was also located and we all succumbed to prolonged crippling views of
this superb creature (see photo left).
On our way out, we bumped into a white morph of Paradise Flycatcher, found an
active nest of Hook-billed Vanga, witnessed a gruesome encounter between a
Madagascar Buzzard and a Madagascar Kestrel, lured in a Madagascar Harrier Hawk
and watched Madagascar Black Swifts mate in mid air. Before boarding the bus we located a Madagascar Plover sitting
motionless over its clutch in a nearby Salicornia plain.
An active morning birding past eerie
octopus like Didieras, inflamed red barked Baobabs, tall Pachypodiums and bulb
shaped Moringas had sped past…the sands were getting hot and Three eyed
Lizards, Skinks and the odd sand Snake were out… time was right to return for a
rest, an early lunch and some siesta…after all the work here was done.
A brief walk along the beach
produced John the trips first sighting of Kelp Gull. In the afternoon, we visited some wetlands south of Ifaty. Whilst walking the edge of a lake we teased
out several Madagascar Swamp Warblers, more than six rather confiding Baillon´s
Crakes, several Madagascar Pond Herons, the sedentary local race of Little
Bittern, Redknobbed Coot, and coral billed Moorhens, fleeting glimpses of
calling Purple Swamphen, and a plausible Caspian Plover ( seen by John only!!),
a Ruff …a vagrant rarity for Madagascar!! loads of Black-crowned Night Herons,
Dabchicks, Hottentot and Redbilled Teals, screaming White-throated Rails and a
Barn Owl flyover. We returned to
Mangily for supper and a well deserved rest.
Before retiring however, with the tide out and no water splashing the honking
of a flock of Greater Flamingos where heard as they flew past on a Northerly
direction
October 9th
Ifaty: A
rather laid back morning was spent mopping up stragglers at a denser patch of
Spiny desert where Green-capped Coua proved rather easy. Those itching to see White-throated Rail joined
Christian on a midday escapade to a nearby marsh where after a bit of teasing a
lovely male popped out into the open and strutted proudly his arena.
In the afternoon those who had
missed out on the NW extension and were willing to explore some wetlands joined
in an epic trip to a nearby lake which had to be reached by Ox cart in full Ben
Hur style. We then berthed on flimsy dugout canoes and remained still as we drifted
past water lily clad glassy waters.
Silently slinking round corners w managed to surprise several Pigmy
Goose, Hottentot Teal, Comb Duck, Squacco Heron and endless mobs White-faced
Whistling Ducks. Back on terra firme, we
taped in several Stripe-throated Jery…and although we heard Allen’s gallinule
in the reed beds we were to far from it to possibly get a glimpse or bring it
any closer.
A brief night search for Western
Torotoroka Scops Owl produced the goods and left everyone happy to call it a
day, find some beers, a shower and a clean soft bed to crash.
October 10th La Table and Melody Beach :
This
morning we headed for La Table reaching it timely just as the soft morning rays
were starting to entice Verreaux’s Couas to sun atop the Euphorbias. The
distinct call of our prime target, Red-shouldered Vanga was heard in the
distance and after some brief tracking and detangling from gnarled thorny,
white dusty bushes, a pair was found (see
photo right) . For over 30 minutes the group was able to follow,
photograph, sound record and marvel at every detail of this species as a pair
casually foraged through the bushes literally 1-2 m away from us.
Having bagged the two specials in
the area we pressed on to reach an area of trimmed grassland where we hoped to
meet Madagascar Sandgrouse, coming in to drink but they never made the
appointment. During the heat hours we
visited Tulear and did some shopping, emailing, post carding and re-stocking.
In the afternoon we persisted again
with the Sandgrouse but none turned out. Whilst scanning the horizon for
Sandgrouse, brief but clear views of a young Peregrine Falcon were had. On the grassy plains stunning views of a
flock of Common Ringed Plovers (ssp
tundra) which were evidently whiter, plump and bigger than the ones we are
used to see in the Palearctic or Sub-Saharan Africa were enjoyed. Three-banded
Plovers of the endemic ssp bifrontatus
were also eagerly studied and Marsh Sandpiper was a welcome first for the trip.
A large-ish flock of rather skittish
Helmeted Guineafowl waltzed into our trip list as they horded in for a drink on
injury light time. Supper was scrumptious, and serenaded by several Madagascar
Nightjars who teased our sound recordist on and off the table at will.
October 11th Nosy Ve Island : Before breakfast we waited once more for any Sandgrouse
coming in to drink but yet again no sounds or sightings were had. After breakfast, on a rising tide we set off
for Nosy Ve on two off-board crafts. Near our landing a large placid roost of
terns that contained Caspian Tern, Greater and Lesser Crested Tern and Common
Tern huddled side by side. A walk
around the island got everyone what they had come looking for…the immaculate and
pristine aerobatics Red-tailed Tropicbirds in full breeding, gliding past and
sending some of us straight into seventh heaven…not so…Ian?? (see photo right)
As the tide started to recede, we headed
for the nearby fishing village of Anakao, where in military fashion landed at
the beach, waded across the reef, located a trio of Littoral Rock Thrushes (
male, female and a youngster) sound recorded them, photographed them, ticked them
and slipped off back into open waters
towards Melody with a full-house of lifers.
After a full day under the sun and taking in a fair bit of spray from a
choppy return trip the group felt somewhat tired and took a rest after
lunch. In the late afternoon some opted
to visit a nearby Ring-tailed Lemur roost…and others tried the dreaded
Sandgrouse. It was official, the
Sandgrouse were no longer using the area.
The Ring-tailed Lemurs however came to roost as per usual, but only one showed
well enough to the group that ventured up to the cave.
October 12th Zombitse Forest to Isalo : The early start to reach
Zombitse paid off, as we managed to reach a second stakeout for Madagascar
Sandgrouse right on time…and were all treated to fly by views of a flying flock
heading for water up the valley…huge relief!
Zombitse unfolded magically, albeit
slower than usual, at the parking lot beautiful Madagascar Bee-eaters,
Madagascar Spine-tailed Swifts, Madagascar Coucal and Madagascar Munias kept
the photographers entertained. At the
forests entrance a humongous Parson’s Chameleon caught everyone off guard and
unprepared to accept its size. Many
Coquerel´s Couas waltzed past the group but Giant Couas (see photo right) had us darting back and forth the whole morning,
reaching empty calling posts. Appert´s
Greenbul, one of the most range restricted species in the world showed
beautifully and easily to all and the photographers feasted on him. A skittish
Madagascar Crested Ibis hurtled off the track ahead of us and vanished, only
allowing brief views to those who were still awake and not too bothered by the
heat. Magic prolonged views of perched Madagascar Cuckoo Roller and bill
snapping Rufous Vangas were enjoyed by all. Dozy Red-tailed Sportive lemurs poking their heads off their
cavities were seen throughout the morning.
Lunch was interrupted by yet another
calling Giant Coua, who continued to resist us. In fact it was only in the late
afternoon that we eventually caught up with a treed pair that was relaxed
enough to allow the entire group take in the sheer size and magnificence of
this endemic species.
The groups eagerness to stay on and
try for a night walk was well rewarded, first by a Madagascar Crested Ibis
calling from the top of a snag under cover of darkness, nothing we could not
handle by setting a scope on it and spotlighting it. Our main quarry, White-browed Owl, eluded us for a few
fly-bys…until they eventually perched close enough to train our scopes on them.
A distant Madagascar Long-eared Owl was only heard but never got any closer. After these two great sightings we headed to
our hotel, where we celebrated Bobs birthday with cake and drinks all round.
October 13th
Isalo to Fianarantsoa: As the group gathered outside the hotel a Benson’s
Rock Thrush came to meet us. A walk
through the grasslands produced no Madagascar Partridge, but managed to flush a
strange looking quail…which later in the year was re-flushed in the same area
and turned out to be a Harlequin Quail.
The bird flew fast and sudden catching most by surprise. Our morning swoops
for partridge turned nothing other than loads of “spoor”, scratchings and
evidence of their presence…but no birds in sight.
The rest of the day was spent driving
across the grassy plateau, flushing hordes of buttonquails, Cisticola and larks
off the road…an eye on the verge in search of partridges and another in the 
sky for Madagascar
Harrier. Before reaching Fianarantsoa
we visited Anja Reserve where we watched a large troop of Ring-tailed lemurs
sunning, feeding and caring after their babies (see photo right). Approaching the highland town of Fianarantsoa a
single Barn Swallow flitted past, but unfortunately most were dozing after the
long drive…Ferdy had the feeling he too had seen a Eurasian Sand Martin…but was
not certain enough to call it. African
Black Swifts milled above town and the first Alpine Swifts were sighted shortly
before reaching our accommodation.
October 14th
Fianarantsoa to Ranomafana NP: After 3 hours of bumping away on the treacherous
Fianar-Ranomafana dirt road, bladders were brimming and ready to offload. The roadside stop produced our first Blue
Coua which showed stunningly on repeated occasions. A morning favorite was a
Madagascar Pigmy Kingfisher perched next to the road and near Vohiparara marsh
Rand’s Warblers called incessantly from their perches and we made acquaintance
with Stripe-throated Jerys of the orientalis
ssp. Whilst sorting our permits and
local guide we enjoyed a flock containing Green Jery, Madagascar Starling,
Pollens and Tylas Vanga, Forest Fody and Nelicourvi Weaver. The remainder of
the morning was spent at Vohiparara where Rufous-headed Ground Roller became
our main target.
One of the first birds of the afternoon
was a calling Crossley´s Babbler, a bird we would see very well in days to come
but that did not show all that well this afternoon. A few non responsive
Madagascar Fluftails broke into call but were not in for the game. No sooner had we reached our first
Rufous-headed Ground Roller Stakeout, a Pitta-like Ground Roller waltzed in and
stole the show for a few minutes. Admirable views where had by all before we pressed
on. Our playback was ignored, and only
distant Wood Rails chirped back at our attempts. Leaving this area we caught up with our first sightings of Common
Sunbird Asity.
Whilst changing localities, we
stated hearing the distinct and repetitive low hoots of a Rufous headed, the
bird was calling from a deep valley and we slowly and gently teased him up
closer to the path. The bird responded very well and locked itself close
by. The onus was on us to find him now,
and we did but he had chosen a very dark stump to perch and call. He called for
well over 5 minutes and most had good views of the bird, some however could not
handle the light conditions and even with the aide of laser pointers could not
make the bird out. Funnily enough, Dave
Stewart who had been recording the bird moved off when the frenzy was over and
checked his recording in silence…a grinning
Dave waltzed down the path exclaiming - Oi!!
Young Boix you won’t bloody believe it….guess wot just woltz onto the path
roight in front of me?? Undoubtedly Dave had the best views of the Ground
Roller thus far.
Not far from here we scored good
views of Cryptic Warbler and further up caught up with Spectacled Greenbul and
better looks of Crossley´s Babbler. Whilst walking out
Madagascar Snipes drummed over our
heads as we reached the bus.
October 15th
Ranomafana NP : A Forest Rock Thrush was
seen foraging at the parks entrance, and across the valley we located our best views
of Blue Pigeons feeding on a fig tree.
The morning was wet and misty but the group was eager and moved swiftly
through the forest. As we approached an old faithful spot for Brown Mesite, a
group of Madagascar Wood Rails squealed in alarm. With patience and a bit of
playback a group of 4 individuals approached us and crossed the path
inquisitively. Soon after we bumped
into an under storey flock White-throated Oxylabes was a welcome novelty. By the time we reached the Mesite territory,
after several other bird party distractions, a rally between two Mesite groups had
commenced. Stealthily we maneuvered
ourselves between the contendants and waited for the confrontation to take
place. A group of 4 on the right seemed to have the upper hand over a couple on
the left and slowly their replies subsided.
After some silence a short burst of playback deep in the dominant group
territory was played, bringing an immediate response, with a male slowly working
its way towards us, past us, below us, beyond us and eventually away from
us. The birds walking nature is smooth
and constant, using the dappled forest
floor to maximum effect...as usual with this species those that 
latched onto the movement
early enough where able to trace it and obtain radical views, whilst those that
could not, just got frustrated. All along a very confiding Pitta like Ground
Roller hopped about near a section of the trail. We later discovered the entrance
to his latest nest. A hissing above our
heads gave away the first brief sighting of male Velvet Asity of the trip (see photo above).
Before exiting the forest we encountered
a feeding group of Red-bellied Lemurs.
A visit to the Vohiparara marshes was highly productive and in no time
we were all enjoying views of no less than 4 Gray Emutails perched in the open
bursting their air sacs away. A single
Madagascar Snipe was flushed and gave magic fly by views to all. Red-fronted Coua, Madagascar Fluftail and
Pollens Vanga were heard from the surrounding forest.
With several individuals in the
group still needing to quench on better views of Rufous-headed Ground Roller we
returned in the afternoon to Vohiparara. We combed the hills testing every
known territory, but all we heard were shy single hoots, nothing encouraging, some
far, some too short none approaching. A Dark Newtonia darted by but returned to
Christian’s spishing. Whilst waiting for Yellowbellied Sunbird Asity a troop of
Golden Bamboo Lemurs grunted below us, in a thick bamboo gorge.
Not giving up we did a final try at
the most vocal territory in the area.
Again hoots replied but sounded far. A pair of Grey-crowned Greenbuls
broke the tension and a Yellow-throated Oxylabes sounded its alarm at our feet
as it stumbled upon us working the undergrowth. Light was poor but the bird
performed with a couple of crossings enough to show itself to most. Whilst taping
the bird closer I realized only a few where standing with me and most were now sprawled
on the ground squeezing views on the opposite direction of a glowing Rufous
headed Ground Roller that had broken cover and hopped along the path away from
us. Elation and relief soaked the group and just as we had regained composure …a
Western Scops Owl hooted a few meters away, the guides scattered …..and
regrouped!!!…..almost immediately realizing the source of the hooting was not
far but right above our heads….incredible close up views were had by everyone
of this dainty, amber-eyed owl species.
We returned to the bus in the dark relishing
on our accomplishment for a rather filling day and a burgeoning trip list on
the making.
October 16th
Ranomafana NP to Antsirabe: The morning started with a surgically dedicated search for
Brown Mesite for those who missed it the previous day. Response to playback was immediate but their
approach was fleeting and brief and only the guides managed to set glass on
them. Not giving up we reposition
ourselves further up the hill. Whilst
approaching the new site we bumped into a split trio that was trying to re-group.
With patience and stillness the trio found each other and carefully poked their
heads onto the track, by now they must have recognized us as part of the
furniture and proceeded to cross the
track, slowly, jerkily, with elongated necks, and their flicky tails…continued
views through the open understorey were clenched and smiles crept all round
…especially in Sonia’s face who for a second entertained the thought we had ran
out of luck.
Ferdy and David who had been birding
the roadside had enjoyed smashing views of Red-fronted Coua and Madagascar
Sparrowhawk. En route to Vohiparara we
stopped for a mint Madagascar Buzzard sunning itself. On arrival, we set off to the Vohiparara ridges in a final attempt
to clench Yellowbellied Sunbird Asity. After
a few unsuccessful sittings at several flowering creepers, we tried some
playback…and out of the blue, low, confiding and unperturbed by us an Immature
Yellowbellied Sunbird Asity popped out and showed itself. The wind picked up
and our attempts to pull in an adult male were thwarted, but instead we managed
to get cracking views of several adult male Common Sunbird Asity as well as a
lovely Ward’s Flycatcher.
Contempt we walked down
the hill, where a nearby growling Redfronted Coua, barreled in after a short
burst of playback, perched in the open and proceeded to call, growl, rattle and
display superbly. The morning was capped by a bird party that provided great
views of White-throated Oxylabes, Grey-crowned, Longbilled and Spectacled
Greenbul, Blue Vanga and brief views of Wedge-tailed Jery. On arrival to the bus, David sheepishly
asked me if we would be interested on taking a look at some mallard looking
ducks he had spotted earlier on downstream…fighting a sudden rush of light-headedness
we rushed over to the spot where a brief search turned out the ducks in
question, a male and a female Meller’s Ducks placidly feeding on a side stream
(see photo right), Dave was the
man!!! And our excitement unsurmountable!!
The rest of the afternoon was spent
driving through to Antsirabe, without many highlights…except for a great
lifer-saving call from Guo Fang whom at a driving speed of 70 kms and hour, on
a windy road, and half asleep…spotted two Madagascar Partridges feeding on a cultivation
field across the road.
October 17th
Antsirabe to Tana: This was mostly a traveling day with a lunch stop in Tana
and a few brief stops en route to Perinet. W reached Perinet in time to acquire some fresh gen on the day’s
sightings and set off on a night walk for Collared Nightjar. A roosting bird was found under a large
Pandanus palm, unfortunately it had rained and the bird looked rather wet, nevertheless
it did not fail to impress all. Luck
struck a second time on our way back as we came across a dry adult Collared
Nightjar perched on the railing of a bridge, 1m off the ground, this one in
mint dry plumage showing the velvety rhombic intricacies of its plumage
somewhat similar to that of a Gabon Viper.
The photographers had a field day and the bird remained calm and
unperturbed, even when everyone was gone and I had to return to collect a
forgotten flashlight. Madagascar Long eared Owl was again heard in the distance.
October 18th
Mantadia NP: Today we awoke to the rasping calls of a pair of Broadbilled Rollers
sallying from a perch next to our lodge.
Armed with a picnic we set off to spend the whole day at Mantadia
NP. Not even 10 minutes into our walk
we flushed the first Ground Roller of the day, nothing else but a Scaly Ground
Roller (see photo right), which was
briefly seen moving on the ground, alighting and crossing the path in front of
us, and then returning to its initial spot flying knee height between members
of the group. Albeit being close up and rather personal views of this species,
every one agreed that slower, preferably still and standing views were required
and so we pressed on. Having seen the
bird on the ground a plethora of times in my life I was phenomenally impressed
with the close flight views, as these allowed me for the first time to
appreciate the bright and intricate wing and tail patterns, and this peculiar recurrent
pattern among Ground rollers and Pittas…white upper wing windows…why ??. Next on the agenda was a very confiding
Red-breasted Coua that performed beautifully as it foraged next to a stream
across and along the path.
Off the beaten track we reached an
area that Maurice reckoned was the centre of a Short-legged Ground
Roller…whilst he played behind us we heard a single hoot from a nearby bird
calling back…summoned Maurice and waited in dead silence until a single shy
hoot was given again. Maurice darted off, and we followed reaching what he
thought was the site of the source, strained his eyes about, and seconds later
we were all cramming over scopes, steadying
ourselves against trees, taking video and photographing a magnificent
adult Short-legged Ground Roller bathed in the most gentle green light I have
ever had the pleasure to witness. On
our way out of the forest we stumbled upon a small group of Wedge-tailed
Jery. Whilst having picnic and walking
the dirt road several Madagascar Spine tailed Swifts were seen, and the
remainder of the day encountered similar species to the ones we had been
exposed at Ranomafana. Although our
prime target remained Scaly Ground Roller, of which we had managed to locate
two active nests, sightings of adults attending the nests were brief and
unfulfilling.
A night walk produced a stunning
White-browed Owl, Barn Owl, and loads of calling Western Scops Owl. On the mammal front we had good views of
Grey Mouse Lemur, Greater Dwarf Lemur, Small-toothed Sportive Lemur, Eastern
Grey Bamboo Lemur and Common Brown Lemur.
October 19th
Mantadia: Scaly
Ground Roller fever had now set in well and truly, so a second full day in
Mantadia was voted for. Our first
morning sighting was a pair of very responsive Madagascar Rails that put up a
sterling appearance. During the morning
we climbed up to one of the ridges and searched for Brown Emutail, after some trying
we met up with a cooperative individual that crept and called for a while
between our feet and under our noses. A
lovely pair of Madagascar Tree Boas was found sunning nearby.
On the way down the piercing shrills
of Nuthatch Vanga were heard and after a while meddling with a canopy bird
party the bird was located and we all enjoyed prolonged views of this highly
solicited species that had eluded us till now.
Mammal sightings of note included a
troop of Diademed Sifakas feeding and a resting Indri. Black and White Ruffed lemurs were sighted
briefly by few but their gurgling cries were heard by all. In the afternoon, a walk along the track at
the bottom of the valley produced great views of both perched and flying
Henst´s Goshawk as well as Frances Sparrowhawk. Returning to the bus we did a bit of gardening on some rank grass
and called in a very responsive Madagascar Fluftail that put up a memorable
show.
Several more flight sightings of
Scaly Ground Roller, were had, enough to tick it by some, but hardly as
enjoyable as all the other Ground Rollers previously seen. Content but a wee
bit frustrated we returned to Perinet.
October 20th
Mantadia and Perinet: Stubbornly…or perhaps even manically, a final morning in
Mantadia was planned. No new species were added but birding was non-stop and rewarding
throughout the morning. Finally our efforts
cashed in all at once as we walked into what everyone had been hoping for the
last two days, on the ground for about 10-15 minutes, a pair of Scaly Ground Rollers
foraged and kept a weary eye on us.
Unbelievably, one of the individuals slinked away from us towards a
nearby stream and was seen SWIMMING ?? not flying, or walking along the stream bottom, but buoying and
paddling with its wings across a stream??? Truly bizarre!!
We returned to Perinet and capitalized
most of our time on soaking views of Indri interacting, jumping, allofeeding
and allopreening, howling away and getting ready to spend the night. Another
phenomenal sighting this afternoon was a colorful Lowland Streaked Tenrec…which
we had a chance to catch and listen for its menacing hollow spine rattlings (see photo right). At dusk we heard once more the familiar distant call of both
Madagascar Long Eared Owls and Madagascar Crested Ibis.
October 21st
Perinet to Tana: In the early morning
hours a Madagascar Long Eared Owl that was no further than the road next to the
lodge, awoke us. The morning was spent
returning back to Tana and paying a brief visit to Lake Alarrobia where a few
targeted species were added, namely Fulvous Whistling Duck and Openbill Stork.
Lunch, pre flight showers, repacking
and a final count was done at Tonga Soa rest house, where we realized that
history had been made as we tallied up our sightings and realized the mythical
200 mark had not only been cracked, we were magnanimously hovering on species. A celebratory and farewell toast ensued
before every one got transferred to their respective connecting flights.
TRIP BIRD LIST
The nomenclature and
taxonomy followed here is according to the Birds of the Indian Ocean Islands by
Sinclair,J.C. and Langrand,O. 1988. Struik.
1 Little Grebe Tachybaptus
ruficollis
2 Madagascar Little Grebe Tachybaptus
pelzelnii (Vu)
3 Red-tailed Tropicbird Phaethon
rubricauda
4 African Darter Anhinga
melanogaster
5 Grey Heron Ardea
cinerea
6 Humblot's Heron Ardea
humbloti (Vu)
7 Purple Heron Ardea
purpurea
8 Great Egret Ardea
alba
9 Black Heron Egretta
ardesiaca
10 Dimorphic Egret Egretta
dimorpha
11 Common Squacco Heron Ardeola
ralloides
12 Madagascar Pond-Heron Ardeola idea (Vu)
13 Cattle Egret Bubulcus
ibis
14 Striated (Green-backed ) Heron Butorides
striatus
15 Black-crowned Night-Heron Nycticorax
nycticorax
16 Little Bittern Ixobrychus
minutus
17 Hamerkop Scopus
umbretta
18 African Openbill Anastomus
lamelligerus
19 Madagascar Sacred Ibis Threskiornis
bernieri
20 Glossy Ibis Plegadis
falcinellus
21 Madagascar Crested Ibis Lophotibis
cristata (Vu)
22 Greater Flamingo Phoenicopterus
ruber
23 Lesser Flamingo Phoenicopterus
minor
24 Fulvous Whistling-Duck Dendrocygna
bicolor
25 White-faced Whistling-Duck Dendrocygna
viduata
26 Comb Duck Sarkidiornis
melanotos
27 African Pygmy-goose Nettapus
auritus
28 Bernier's Teal Anas bernieri (En)
29 Meller's Duck Anas
melleri (En)
30 Red-billed Teal Anas erythrorhyncha
31 Hottentot Teal Anas hottentota
32 Madagascar Cuckoo-Hawk Aviceda madagascariensis
33 Yellowbilled Kite Milvus aegyptius
34 Madagascar Fish-Eagle Haliaeetus vociferoides
(En)
35 Madagascar Harrier Circus macrosceles
36 Madagascar Harrier-Hawk Polyboroides radiatus
37 Frances' Goshawk Accipiter francesii
38 Madagascar Sparrowhawk Accipiter madagascariensis (nt)+C74
39 Henst's Goshawk Accipiter
henstii
40 Madagascar Buzzard Buteo
brachypterus
41 Madagascar Kestrel Falco
newtoni
42 Banded Kestrel Falco
zoniventris
43 Sooty Falcon Falco
concolor
44 Peregrine Falcon Falco peregrinus
45 Madagascar Partridge Margaroperdix
madagascarensis
46 Harlequin Quail Coturnix
delegorguei
47 Helmeted Guineafowl Numida
meleagris
48 White-breasted Mesite Mesitornis
variegata (Vu)
49 Brown Mesite Mesitornis unicolor (Vu)
50 Subdesert Mesite Monias
benschi (Vu)
51 Madagascar Buttonquail Turnix
nigricollis
52 Madagascar Flufftail Sarothrura
insularis
53 Madagascar Wood-Rail Canirallus
kioloides
54 Madagascar Rail Rallus
madagascariensis
55 White-throated Rail Dryolimnas
cuvieri
56 Baillon's Crake Porzana
pusilla
57 Purple Swamphen Porphyrio
porphyrio
58 Allen's Gallinule Porphyrio
alleni
59 Common Moorhen Gallinula
chloropus
60 Red-knobbed Coot Fulica
cristata
61 Madagascar Jacana Actophilornis
albinucha
62 Greater Painted-snipe Rostratula
benghalensis
63 Black-winged Stilt Himantopus
himantopus
64 Pied Avocet Recurvirostra
avosetta
65 Madagascar Pratincole Glareola
ocularis
66 Black-bellied (Grey) Plover Pluvialis
squatarola
67 Common Ringed Plover Charadrius
hiaticula
68 Madagascar Plover Charadrius
thoracicus (nt)+C115
69 Kittlitz's Plover Charadrius
pecuarius
70 Three-banded Plover Charadrius
tricollaris
71 White-fronted Plover Charadrius
marginatus
72 Lesser Sandplover Charadrius
mongolus
73 Greater Sandplover Charadrius
leschenaultii
74 Madagascar Snipe Gallinago
macrodactyla
75 Bar-tailed Godwit Limosa
lapponica
76 Whimbrel Numenius
phaeopus
77 Eurasian Curlew Numenius arquata
78 Marsh Sandpiper Tringa
stagnatilis
79 Common Greenshank Tringa
nebularia
80 Wood Sandpiper Tringa
glareola
81 Terek Sandpiper Xenus
cinereus
82 Common Sandpiper Actitis
hypoleucos
83 Ruddy Turnstone Arenaria
interpres
84 Sanderling Calidris
alba
85 Little Stint Calidris
minuta
86 Curlew Sandpiper Calidris
ferruginea
87 Ruff Philomachus
pugnax
88 Kelp Gull Larus
dominicanus
89 Grey-headed Gull Larus
cirrocephalus
90 Gull-billed Tern Sterna
nilotica
91 Caspian Tern Sterna
caspia
92 Lesser Crested Tern Sterna
bengalensis
93 Great Crested Tern Sterna
bergii
94 Common Tern Sterna
hirundo
95 Little / Saunder's Tern Sterna
albifrons
96 Whiskered Tern Chlidonias
hybridus
97 White-winged Tern Chlidonias
leucopterus
98 Black Tern Chlidonias
niger
99 Madagascar Sandgrouse Pterocles
personatus
100 Rock Dove Columba
livia
101