NORTHERN ECUADOR - a TROPICAL BIRDING custom tour
3rd-17th December 2005
Leader: Sam
Woods
(special thanks to Josh Engel
for help with the northwest part of the tour)
Participants: George & Stephanie Bryant, Don & Helen Barker, Joyce Feinberg, David Foot, Elizabeth Mihalj, David Smith, Charlotte Turnbul & Martin Wiener.
Masked Mountain-Tanager,
Papallacta (Sam Woods)
George
arrived with his Canadian group, a mixed group of birders and wildlife enthusiasts
with no particular requests for target birds or particular difficult species.
However, what they got was a selection of great birds including some of the
more difficult Chocó endemics in the northwest such as Tanager
Finch and other much sought-after spectacular ones like Plate-billed
Mountain-Toucans and Toucan Barbets; and also
a number of seldom seen birds on the east slope section of the tour including
the scarce and striking Masked Mountain-Tanager and
Giant Conebill in the high Andes, upto 4 Black-billed
Mountain-Toucans at San Isidro and the very rarely seen Greater
Scythebill on the Guacamayos Ridge on the east slope of the
Andes. So despite the group being a great set of people with limited demands
for particular birds they walked away with many highly-sought after, difficult
species, whether they liked it or not! The tour was a really enjoyable one,
for the relaxed company and regular banter within the group and a set of great
lodges complete with a fine mixture of Ecuadorian and international cuisine,
and I am sure I will see many of the group again in the future (for a Southern
Ecuador tour in 2007 I hope!)
ITINERARY:
| 3rd December 2005 | ARRIVAL. Night in Quito. |
| 4th December | Yanacocha & old Nono-Mindo road, night Tandayapa Bird Lodge. |
| 5th December | Upper Tandayapa Valley & old Nono-Mindo road, night Tandayapa Bird Lodge. |
| 6th December |
Pedro
Vicente Maldonado forest patches & Rio Silanche Bird Sanctuary,
night Tandayapa Bird Lodge.
|
| 7th December | Upper & Lower Tandayapa Valley, night Tandayapa Bird Lodge. |
| 8th December | Milpe Bird Sanctuary & Los Bancos, night Tandayapa Bird Lodge. |
| 9th December | Airport transfer, Tandayapa-Quito and flight Quito-Coca, then boat to Sacha Lodge, Amazon. Night Sacha Lodge. |
| *9th-13th December | Sacha Lodge (led by guides at Sacha Lodge - arranged through Tropical Birding)* |
| 13th December | Papallacta Pass, night Termas de Papallacta. |
| 14th December | Papallacta area, night Cabañas San Isidro. |
| 15th December | San Isidro, night Cabañas San Isidro. |
| 16th December | Guacamayos Ridge, night Quito. |
| 17th December 2005 | DEPARTURE, end of tour. |
4th
December
The
northwest part of the tour, exploring the forest on the west slope of the
Andes, searching for the Chocó specialities of the region (Chocó
= northwest Ecuador & southwest Colombia), began at the Yanacocha reserve
near to Quito (Ecuador's capital city). This excellent reserve is managed
by the Ecuadorian-based conservation organizationFundación
Jocotoco, and protects some 964 ha of elfin polylepis forest in the temperate
zone (altitude around 3500m), on the slopes of Volcan Pichincha, the volcano
that looms over Quito and lends it name to that particular province. The reserve
was set up to preserve the habitat from the threat of deforestation for charcoal
production and agriculture and contains the global population of the one of
the world's rarest hummingbirds-Black-breasted Puffleg, that is mainly encountered
during April to June. However even when that bird is not around the reserve
still has plenty to offer in the way of spectacular humming birds and colorful
tanagers, of which many were seen on our first morning's birding of the tour.
Before we had even reached the reserve one of George's personal ambitions
had been fulfilled, when minutes after stating he hoped he would get a chance
to see his first Antpitta species on the tour, a Tawny Antpitta was
found by David close to the entrance track which allowed everyone great views.
Arriving at the reserve soon after dawn we soon saw some of the gaudy tanagers
we were hoping to see when a flock passed close by to the trail, with some
great prolonged views of Black-chested Tanagers and our first of many
views of the incredible Golden-crowned Tanager, along with our first
'hummers' such as Buff-winged Starfrontlets and Sapphire-vented
Pufflegs. Walking the wide open 'Inca Trail' we encountered countless
hummingbirds at the feeders dotted along the track including the unforgettable
(and well-named) Rainbow-bearded Thornbill and the unmistakable Sword-billed
Hummingbird (whose incredibly long, cumbersome bill has be seen to be
believed) and Golden-breasted Puffleg. Other interesting birds were
seen in the mixed feeding flocks alongside the trail including the much-appreciated
Barred Fruiteater, Paramo Seedeater, White-banded & White-throated
Tyrannulets and Glossy & Masked Flowerpiercers. After a lunch
break we headed up the famed old Nono-Mindo road, a long-established birding
route in its own right. Although the Torrent Ducks failed to appear for us
on this part of the tour (but see later...), many of the other 'target' species
were picked up along there including Slaty-backed Chat-Tyrants alongside
the scenic Rio Alambi, while a pair of White-capped Dippers watched
feeding playfully in the rushing torrents once more proved a very popular
attraction, although undoubtedly the sight of upto 6 male Andean Cock-of-the-Rocks
displaying in the treetops soon stole the show with everyone visibly taken
aback by the unbelievable vividness of their striking red plumage. We then
happily headed onto Tandayapa Bird Lodge
for a late-afternoon look at the hummingbird feeders on the balcony there.
We added many new species in a very short period of time due to the unbelievable
level of activity at the feeders, seeing new species so fast it was hard to
take them all in (although a more relaxed period there the following day with
explanations of all the subtle species differences helped to clear up some
of the confusion), including some good Chocó specialities such as Empress
Brilliant, Purple-bibbed Whitetip, Violet-tailed Sylph, Gorgeted
Sunangel, Brown Inca and Western Emerald.
5th
December
After
a much deserved rest at the lodge overnight the group headed up to the top
of the Tandayapa Valley, where we birded amongst lush wet subtropical forests
(altitude = 2320m+), where the trees were 'dripping' with rich blood-colored
bromeliads, and we enjoyed some great views looking down the whole valley
from the old Nono-Mindo road that runs along the length of it.
It
is always enjoyable to bird in such a great setting, particularly when the
birds are equally memorable with some key Chocó endemics recorded on our first
morning out of Tandayapa Bird Lodge, notably the spectacular, many-colored
Toucan Barbet which allowed us all several good opportunities to watch
them during the morning.
Another
Chocó specialty encountered included Western Hemispingus (although
much less colorful than the previous species), which was seen in a mixed flock
along with Rusty-winged Barbtail and Lineated Foliage-gleaner
during a midmorning coffee/tea break nearby. Although probably more appreciated
(especially by the so-called 'non-birders' in the group who frequently seemed
more into the birds than the others!), was a fine Crimson-mantled Woodpecker
which although lacks something in terms of rarity it makes up for in terms
of attractive appearance - surely one of Ecuador's finest woodpeckers?
Other
birds seen along the Tandayapa Ridge included Long-tailed Antbird (the
only antbird at these high altitudes), Barred Becard, Capped Conebill,
Blue-and-Black Tanager and the first of many Beryl-Spangled Tanagers.
Crimson-mantled Woodpecker, Tandayapa (Sam Woods)
After a lunch break around the lodge, seeing some species feeding right beside the lodge such as Marble-faced Bristle-Tyrant and Blue-winged Mountain-Tanagers feeding on the fruit feeders within inches of the windows and visible from the dining table. The afternoon was again spent along the old Nono-Mindo road, with plenty of birds still to see along there after our limited time there previously. Once again this road was very productive with the hoped-for Beautiful Jays (a very attractive species confined to subtropical forest in northwest Ecuador and Colombia, that's main stronghold is in the forest alongside this road), seen very well by all of us after their distinctive far-carrying calls alerted us to their presence. We also picked up some of the colorful tanager flocks that the area is well-known for, with Golden, Silver-throated, Metallic-Green, Golden-naped and the outrageously bright Flame-faced Tanager seen in some of these; while boreal migrants along there included Olive-sided Flycatcher and the scarcely recorded Black-and-White Warbler. No less bright, (or less appreciated), were the great views of both Quetzal species-Golden-headed & Crested Quetzal which were seen in a fruiting tree along with more Andean Cock-of-the-Rocks.
6th
December
This day was a completely different birding experience to the previous
days as the cooler Andean climate was left behind as we descended to the more
humid lowland forests (altitude = 500m), near to the town of Pedro Vicente
Maldonado, complete with an exciting new set of birds. The day was spent birding
the remaining forest patches along an 8km section of road there, culminating
in a visit to the Rio
Silanche Bird Sanctuary near the end of the road, an exciting new reserve
that has very recently been bought and set up by the Mindo
Cloudforest Foundation. Tanagers were still much in evidence in the flocks
there although, almost all were completely new species to us on the tour,
including the stunning Scarlet-breasted Dacnis and Scarlet-browed
Tanagers, both Chocó specialties. Flock after flock was encountered throughout
the day with each one seeming to hold new species for us. Other Tanagers recorded
included Tawny-crested, Bay-headed, Lemon-rumped, Summer, White-lined,
White-shouldered, Golden-hooded, Blue-necked & Guira Tanagers to name
just a few! A flowering Inga tree was buzzing with hummingbirds and
tanagers taking advantage, with White-necked Jacobin feeding alongside
Purple-chested Hummingbirds (yet another Chocó endemic), Green-crowned
Woodnymphs, Green Thorntails
and a Green-Crowned Brilliant,
in addition to a few Blue Dacnises. Other noteworthy birds during the
day were a fine pair of Rufous-tailed Jacamars sat side by side, a
Chocó Toucan seen from the stunning new canopy tower on the Mindo
Cloudforest Foundation reserve along with an Orange-crowned Euphonia
there, a few different Pale-mandibled Aracaris (a bird with a very
limited range outside of northwest Ecuador), Barred Puffbird (a scarce
bird putting in an appearance for the third tour running), Guayaquil Woodpecker,
Western Woodhaunter, Pacific & Checker-throated Antwrens
and Dusky Antbird. We decided to head back to Tandayapa earlier than
usual to allow the non-birders in the group to have a rest after a long, bird-packed
day and also give us some time in the late afternoon to go to hide at the
lodge (also sometimes referred to as the 'Antpitta feeding station'), as there
had been some interesting sightings there of late. Although there was still
sufficient time to make a break on the journey back at a cafe near Mindo as
it is a highly reliable place for two more Chocó specialties which also happen
to be some of the most brightly colored. They did not let us down and we were
treated to the sight of many Velvet-Purple Coronets visiting the busy
feeders there-a bird that is often simply to referred to as the 'best-looking
hummingbird in the world', and when the light catches the birds just right
revealing brilliant blues, greens and purples previously unseen it is easy
to see why. The other specialty there-Black-chinned Mountain-Tanager-was
embarrassingly easy as we watched it feeding on the purposely provided bananas
there.
Black-chinned
Mountain-Tanager, near Mindo (Sam Woods)
Sure enough on reaching Tandayapa's bird hide, right on cue, the regular Scaled Antpitta put in an appearance there so all of us could get privileged and prolonged views of this normally shy forest bird. A very close Streak-capped Treehunter was also new for the trip and could be seen feeding on the specially laid compost there, and a Spotted Barbtail just in front of the hide was also new for the trip. Once light began to fade we headed back to the lodge to go through a long bird list for the day and have some welcome drinks and food back at Tandayapa Bird Lodge.
7th
December
The day began with another visit to the Tandayapa Bird Lodge hide,
shortly after dawn. Before even reaching there we saw one of Tandayapa's star
birds along the short trail to the hide - when a Rufous-breasted Antthrush
was seen feeding smack bang in the center of the path, proving once again
that Tandayapa really is one of the most reliable places in the World for
this beautiful bird. Strangely the Antpitta was missing in our time there,
although an extremely obliging Strong-billed Woodcreeper was watched
for well over 20 minutes feeding within inches of our faces right in front
of the hide, and provided more than adequate compensation. After a short time
there we then returned to the Upper Tandayapa Valley to search again for some
missing birds where we had some great late morning birding with several interesting
flocks, containing several Plushcaps, Grass-green Tanagers, a Buff-breasted
Mountain-Tanager, Rufous-chested Tanagers and several Green-and-Black
Fruiteaters. The best of all was yet to come however, when we went to
a specific area for one of the valley's rarest birds, the globally-threatened
Tanager Finch. Soon after getting off the bus at the chosen spot its
distinctive song could be heard and we hurried excitedly to the source of
the sound where we all got repeated, good views of this extremely rare bird
skulking in some close vegetation. We headed back for lunch at the lodge pretty
satisfied with the morning's haul, afterwhich we spent some of the afternoon
birding the lower end of the valley before returning once more to the top
end. The afternoon's birding 'show' was stolen by toucans with a pair of highly
obliging Crimson-rumped Toucanets in the lower valley and finally everyone
had some really superb views of three Plate-billed Mountain-Toucans
in the upper valley, truly breathtaking birds that were well-chosen for the
cover of the Ecuador field guide.
Crimson-rumped
Toucanet, Tandayapa Valley(Sam Woods)
8th
December
For our last day's birding in the northwest we visited another Mindo
Cloudforest Foundation reserve - the Milpe
Bird Sanctuary. Set in amongst the foothills (altitude around 1100m),
within the Chocó endemic bird area (as defined by Birdlife International),
Milpe contains some really important forest birds many of which were not possible
elsewhere on the tour. Right beside the reserve center, just off the road,
we saw one of these Chocó species, Gray-and-Gold Tanager,
in a noisy, mixed tangara flock. It was not long before we descended
into the forest and had fantastic views of one of these specialties - the
remarkable Club-winged Manakin. We were able to watch this very distinctive
manakin lekking, all the while flashing its contrasting white wing panels
and making the bizarre mechanical 'beeping' sound that characterizes this
species. We were particularly lucky to be able to observe the rare sight of
two manakin species displaying in the same tree, when a pair of male Golden-winged
Manakins joined in the show. Shortly after another regional specialty,
the Chocó Trogon began calling closeby and we soon were able
to see a brilliant male with a great musical backdrop of the displaying Club-wingeds.
Male Chocó
Trogon, Milpe Bird Sanctuary (Sam Woods)
A short walk further on and we managed to lure in a Ruddy Foliage-gleaner, a strange ground-dwelling 'ovenbird' that is famously hard to see well, although at least some of the group managed several good, close views. With the foliage-gleaner still calling away (and the manakins also in constant 'song'), a large flock moved quickly through beside us. This contained many new birds including many Ochre-breasted Tanagers (another regional specialty), Tawny-breasted Flycatcher, Buff-fronted & Scaly-throated Foliage-gleaners, and best of all great views of a Brown-billed Scythebill (not a Chocó endemic but a really cool-looking bird and one that is often difficult to see in the northwest). While this large flock was still being processed by us Sam noticed a movement in the undergrowth which turned out to be one of Milpe's most highly sought-after and difficult species, the secretive Esmeraldas Antbird, a male of which was seen several times by the group. Moving onto a wider, more open easy forest trail we encountered more flocks where Josh excitedly pointed to a Moss-backed Tanager that tried to sneak passed us, although thankfully it lingered long enough for most of the birders to have great views of this distinctive Chocó species. Other good birds seen in the area included a Pale-vented Thrush, quite a few Chocó Warblers, Rufous-rumped Antwren and several Broad-billed Motmots. Unfortunately the calling Yellow-collared Chlorophonia that overflew was less obliging, and although it was seen by all while we were having a lunch break at Milpe's feeders, it never stopped or reappeared. After a lunch at the feeders where we had some good views of some soaring raptors such as Barred Hawk (watched flying over our heads carrying a snake in its talons) and a Short-tailed Hawk, along with repeated views of White-whiskered Hermits, adding this to our already overloaded list of hummingbirds for the trip; we decided to spend some time at a nearby restaurant in the town of Los Bancos, where the fruit feeders there are becoming legendary. Whilst sitting outside on the scenic veranda sipping fresh fruit juices, complete with wonderful views of the Rio Blanco down below, it is possible to watch the feeders and see brightly-colored Tanagers and Toucans feeding right beside the panoramic restaurant windows. I think it is fair to say that everyone appreciated the friendly hospitality and beauty of this superb little place, not least due to the great views of some of the birds there, such as Pale-mandibled Aracaris, Crimson-rumped Toucanets,a pair of Black-cheeked Woodpeckers unusually feeding on bananas, a small group of Rufous-throated Tanagers (another Chocó endemic), and best of all, Emerald Tanager, that all came in to feed on the fruit mere feet away. Quite simply the place is paradise for birders and photographers alike. We then headed back to Tandayapa for some more great soup and got an early night in preparation for the following day's transfer to the Amazon.
Emerald Tanager,
Los Bancos (Sam Woods)
9th-13th
December
These
days were spent by the group with two expert local bird guides at Sacha Lodge
in the Amazon. This part of the trip is not covered here, although was completely
arranged through the TROPICAL
BIRDING office
in Quito, who can easily arrange this for anyone else in the future - see
www.tropicalbirding.com
or call
us, toll-free from the US, on 1-800-348-5941.
13th
December
Today we ascended to the high Andes where most of the afternoon and
the following day was spent amongst the dramatic mountain scenery in the high
Andes around the pass at Papallacta (altitude = 4000m), a long-established
area for birders traveling across to the eastern side of the Andes. After
the group arrived back in Quito from their Amazon adventure in the early afternoon,
we picked them up and headed straight off to the highlands, with a boxed lunch
provided for the 1.5 - 2 hour journey there. Before reaching the pass a sudden
roadside stop was called for to observe some classic high Andean species -
a small flock of Andean Gulls feeding in a ploughed field and better
still, some good flight and perched views of a single Carunculated Caracara.
We then stopped at the 4,000m-high pass along the Quito-Lago-Agria road to
admire the stunning paramo grasslands, dominated by tussocks of stipa
grasses and distinctive stands of puya bromeliads interspersed
with Chuquiragua shrubs, that stretched out before us with the pockets
of scrub giving us new birds such as Blue-mantled Thornbill, Many-striped
Canastero and Andean Tit-Spinetail, while the open paramo supplied
Bar-winged Cinclodes and Plumbeous Sierra-Finch. Then we ventured
up in the bus along a deserted mountain road to the highest point of the tour
- 4,200m+ - for one of Papallacta's specialities, the grouse-like Rufous-bellied
Seedsnipe. Despite the high altitude nobody seemed to suffer too badly
(despite a very fit 89-year old being present within the group!), although
there was an understandable lack of keenness to walk too much at this draining
altitude. Thankfully for us the seedsnipes performed superbly, allowing us
to watch them from the comfort of the bus, at very close range just off the
road at the side of the bus, and when we could no longer see the original
pair we simply moved on up the road to watch another similarly obliging pair
- I wish all birds could be this understanding! With this key bird seen really
well and so easily we headed back down the road to ensure we did not spend
unnecessary further time at this demanding altitude. Soon after our descent
in the bus the rain clouds moved in to prompt us to retreat to our plush surroundings
for the night, the luxurious Termas de Papallacta complete with its extensive
natural hot springs which most of the group used to good effect to soak our
tired bones! It really was a great way to close the day by relaxing in their
hot baths just outside our rooms for the night.
14th
December
Most
of this day was once again spent at the high altitudes around Papallacta,
complete with a stunning view of one of Ecuador's largest and most distinctive
volcanoes closeby - the 5753m high Volcan Antisana. Pre-breakfast we decided
to bird a road close to our hotel for a few hours, in an area of really picturesque
stunted elfin woodland choked with bamboo, where the activity started slowly
(to be expected this high), although the flock we were waiting for finally
put in an appearance with many Black-backed Bush-Tanagers present (a
restricted range species only found very locally in Colombia and Ecuador where
it is most regularly seen either side of the continental divide at Papallacta).
Although the bird we were really hoping for was frustratingly only heard initially
although persistence in searching through the flock as it moved through the
low elfin trees paid off when eventually a pair of the vulnerable Masked
Mountain-Tanager appeared perched on top of one of the stunted trees there.
These bulky highly distinctive tanagers are only found close to the treeline
along the western slope of the Andes from southern Colombia to northern Peru
where the frequent burning of the paramo continues to decrease their habitat,
so they are generally a hard bird to come by, although we have managed to
see them on our last three tours to this area. Other good birds seen while
up here on the treeline included a single Viridian Metaltail, a pair
of Rainbow-bearded Thornbills, several Shining Sunbeams feeding
on the colorful roadside fuscias and a White-chinned Thistletail
(another specialist high-altitude 'ovenbird' or furnariid), was seen
near the top end of the road.
Volcan Antisana,
Provincia Napo (Sam Woods)
After a positively later breakfast than usual (much to the happiness of the non-birders in the group who skipped the early birding for a more 'relaxed' morning), we birded a small trail that runs alongside a grove of polylepis woodland, a very distinctive specialized Andean habitat that has been greatly reduced in recent years due to extensive paramo burning for agricultural purposes, that holds some really special birds. This woodland is easy to recognize as it dominated by only one or more species of short trees that have distinctive gnarled, reddish, flaky bark. Unlike much of the forest of the trip polylepis woodland has little undergrowth making it easy walk within which was of great use to us when on arrival a feeding flock moved through the trees in front of us and we hurried into the wood and soon picked up the key polylepis-specialist we were looking for - the charismatic Giant Conebill, a really cool-looking almost nuthatch-like bird that is only found within such high Andean polylepis groves. Luckily for us the flock was in no hurry and remained in the area for some time allowing us all to get views of this cracking frosty-faced bird, as it crawled along the red, flaky branches in typical nuthatch-like fashion. A Pearled Treerunner and some Hooded Siskins were also noted within the flock, before we proceeded to the further on this short trail to view the Laguna Succus at the trail end. As expected this scenic paramo lake provided all of the classic high altitude waterbirds found within the area - with a few Silvery Grebes, Andean Teals, Yellow-billed Pintails, Andean Ruddy Ducks and Andean Coots seen by all after a little effort searching through the rafts of waterfowl with my faithful Swarovski scope. We then stuffed down more food at the Termas before we began heading further east along the Baeza road, where we made a planned stop at the quaint setting of Guango Lodge on the banks of the Rio Guango. The hummingbird feeders here were alive with birds, with an incredible 14 species seen in less than half an hour, many of which were completely new for us. Tourmaline Sunangels were common there as usual (an east slope specialty), along with the stunning Long-tailed Sylph (which made for a good comparison with their west slope counterpart, Violet-tailed Sylph that we had seen earlier at Tandayapa), Chestnut-breasted Coronets, a single Glowing Puffleg (surely the best looking puffleg in Ecuador?) and a female of the rare Gorgeted Woodstar. We then drove a further hour onto Cabañas San Isidro our base for the next two nights. San Isidro comprises of a number of small cabins that has been run by an Ecuadorian family, (the Bustamante family), for many years, set next to some beautiful subtropical forest (altitude = 2000m) on the east slope of the Andes. Thus in terms of birds it is generally comparable to Tandayapa on the west slope, although San Isidro has a number of birds that do no make it over to the western slope (although therefore lacks the Chocó specialties that are confined to the western slope). Before the night was out we were getting our first taste of the amazing food that the San Isidro is justly famous for.
15th
December
After an early arranged breakfast we went from the cabins to some subtropical
forest just an easy short walk away and were soon encountering our first east
slope flocks with some of the special flycatchers found there. Various flocks
were seen throughout the morning with many new birds including Rufous-breasted
Flycatcher, a few Sulphur-bellied Flycatchers, Handsome Flycatchers
and an Ashy-headed Tyrannulet, with Pale-edged Flycatcher also
picked up later that day. Although it was not all about those so-called 'difficult'
flycatchers, as we also saw a Crested Quetzal, a Black-billed Peppershrike,
some Saffron-crowned Tanagers (a really striking tangara that
although is not confined to the east slope is much easier there, being common
at San Isidro), and Olive-backed Woodcreepers and a Barred Becard
were noted in some of the flocks along with them, while some good views
were had of a Slate-crowned Antpitta were had after a little resourceful
use of playback. However the Lineated Woodpecker seen well along the
road there was probably our rarest sighting of the morning (although perhaps
not fully appreciated as we had previously encountered this species in the
northwest), as there are only a few records of this bird from this high altitude
site for the species. As the sun started baking the road and the heat caused
a lull in the activity we returned to San Isidro and watched the hummingbird
feeders there for a while, mostly getting more time to view and familiarize
ourselves with some of the species previously seen at Guango Lodge (such as
Long-tailed Sylphs and Chestnut-breasted Coronets), although
Bronzy Inca was an east slope specialty that we had not seen before
then. After another great San Isidro meal we visited another area of subtropical
forest, a short drive away from the cabins. Before we had reached there a
Black-and-Chestnut Eagle circled around several times from the bus
en-route. On reaching the area where the main target was a localizedtoucan,
all appeared quiet when all of a sudden a pair of these impressive birds flew
over us and perched in full view so we could all enjoy our second mountain
toucan of the trip, the scarce Black-billed Mountain-Toucan. They then
proceeded to call repeatedly in the area and were soon joined by another two
and we all got great views of what was presumed to be a family party, at one
time sharing a tree with an Emerald Toucanet, (this 'race' albivitta,
that is found on the west slope of the Andes from Venezuela south to Colombia
and also occurs on the east slope in Ecuador, many now split off as Andean
Toucanet). Satisfied with this we returned to San Isidro picking up a
shy group of three Wattled Guans on the return journey, and a freshly-marked
Puma Puma concolor print was equally tantalizing. On reaching San Isidro
one of their most famous residents was seen perched on top of a cecropia
near the dining room on the way to dinner - an owl often referred to simply
as the 'San Isidro Mystery Owl' due to no firm identification having
been made yet. A pair of these strix owls (confusingly formerly considered
within a narrower genus, Ciccaba) have been frequenting the area around
their cabins for over 6 years, although the presence of such an owl there
is mystifying - the bird is at much too high an altitude for the other similar
eastern slope strix, Black-banded Owl (Strix huhula) and is on the
wrong slope entirely (in addition to being at an altogether wrong altitude),
for the other similar species, Black-and-White Owl (Strix nigrolineata).
Unsurprisingly they are a major attraction for many visiting birders as they
may yet prove to be a new, undescribed species.
16th
December
On
our final day of the day we drove further eastwards for around half an hour
to reach the Cordillera de Huacamayos, more often simply to referred to as
the Guacamayos Ridge. Here we walked the narrow trail that transects this
ridge heading westwards walking what was an old west-east Inca route
down to the Amazon. This semi-isolated ridge goes through beautiful wet upper
subtropical forest (where the trees are choked with moss), at an elevation
of around 2200m near the start, although descending gradually as you move
along it. This area is notoriously wet throughout the year and we came well-prepared
for the worst, although despite a short period of light rain we had a trouble
free morning for weather reflecting the pattern of the whole trip where rain
had been expected to hamper us at a number of places, although the tour remained
almost totally rain-free (never effecting the birding at any time). It proved
a good day on the ridge and a great set of birds to end the tour with, some
of them new and some just great birds we were happy to see again, including
a couple of Turquoise Jays, a very vocal Black-billed Mountain-Toucan
along with another Emerald (Andean) Toucanet, more Green-and-Black
Fruiteaters for those who were still awaiting more full-on views and several
superb close views of another Slate-crowned Antpitta perched right
out in the open. Other birds seen included our first Northern Mountain-Caciques,
Yellow-whiskered Bush-Tanagers, Bluish Flowerpiercer and Sepia-Brown
Wrens of the trip along with Hooded Mountain-Tanager, Spotted
Barbtails and a brilliant Streaked Tuftedcheek feeding in the mossy
underside of a moss-laden tree, as they habitually do. However the undoubted
star of the morning was a very, very rare species that has its stronghold
here on the Guacamayos Ridge. George mentioned quite passively a 'woodcreeper'
that he was watching feeding at close range on the side of a mossy trunk,
and soon most other people were on this bird which turned out to be one of
the rarest seen on the trip - the rarely seen and very distinctive Greater
Scythebill. Happy with this haul we headed back to San Isidro for our
final meal together on the tour, pausing at a river bridge on the way back
to view the Rio Cosanga where we had our third sighting of Torrent Duck
for the trip with a fine male perched out on top of a rock amongst the rushing
rapids. Torrent Tyrannulets, another specialist of fast-flowing Andean
mountain rivers were also seen there. We then enjoyed our final load of San
Isidro food before we departed for Quito for the end of the tour.
The tour was one I personally really enjoyed, particularly for the camaraderie of the group (believe me no-one was spared from this including me!), and of course also because it was full of some really great birds complete with stunning views of many of them. So I hope to see some of this group again for southern Ecuador in 2007, for more great Ecuadorian lodges complete with some more good food.
BIRD LIST
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The taxonomy and nomenclature of this list follow: Ridgely, Robert & Greenfield, Paul. The Birds of Ecuador: Field Guide. 2001. Ithica, NY: Comstock Publishing. All species listed below were seen by at least one person in the group. Birds marked with an H were only heard. Birds in RED are Chocó endemics as listed by Ridgely & Greenfield in the field guide. TINAMOUS
Tinamidae GREBES
Podicipedidae CORMORANTS
AND SHAGS Phalacrocoracidae DUCKS,
GEESE, AND SWANS Anatidae HERONS,
BITTERNS, AND EGRETS Ardeidae AMERICAN
VULTURES Cathartidae CURASSOWS,
GUANS, CHACHALACAS Cracidae NEW
WORLD QUAILS Odontophoridae RAILS,
GALLINULES, AND COOTS Rallidae GULLS
AND TERNS Laridae TAPACULOS
Rhinocryptidae DIPPERS
Cinclidae OLD
WORLD SPARROWS Passeridae |