What can I say; doing trips like this one hardly feels like work at all. The tour was a small one with two English guests, Andrew Duff and Ann Lawson, and an old birding friend of mine from Australia, David Siems. The mood for the trip was set at dinner on the 24th when Ann suggested that we just go after the hard endemics, and the easy stuff will look after itself. Having such a small group, we could go as fast and Ann, Andrew and Dave wanted, so off we set.

25 May: Yanacocha - Old Nono-Mindo Road

We set off early to Yanacocha, a high cloud forest reserve on the edge of Volcán Pichincha. The scenery would have been fantastic, but we were cloud-bound for most of the morning. The birding was slow for Yanacocha but the guests did not seem to mind at all; having great views of the very rare Black-breasted Puffleg could have had something to do with it. In fact, the feeders at Yanacocha have taken some of the gamble out of birding there because many of the hummers are now dead certainties. Some of the other good birds of the site were include the unusually abundant Barred Fruiteater, Andean Guan, Band-winged Nightjar, Saphire-vented Puffleg, Purple-backed Thornbill, White-browed Spintail and the amazingly beautiful Golden-crowned Tanager. On the way to Tandayapa, we stopped off at the Cock-of-the-rock lek, but we dipped in the drizzle. We finished the afternoon at Tandayapa Bird Lodge.

26 May: Los Bancos and the Cock-of-the-rock

An early start from Tandayapa had us in Los Bancos and to one of my least favorite tanagers, the Ochre-breasted Tanager. After the tanager ceased its morning scream, we started looking for the really good stuff. One of the main targets was the Moss-backed Tanager, and we were happy with the many views we had of this bird as well as the numerous photos taken by Andrew, a true convert to digiscoping. Other good birds of the day include the Rufous-throated Tanager, Pale-mandibled Aracari, Chocó Trogon and the Club-winged Manakin. After the mornings birding we stopped at Mindo on the way back to pick up the Empress Brilliant and Green-crowned Woodnymph. A look from Ann suggested that she really wanted the Andean Cock-of the-rock, so we made a slight diversion to the lek near Tandayapa and were satisfied by up to 4 males displaying in the scope at a time. The day was capped-off by a male Lyre-tailed Nightjar doing a low flyby at the stakeout close to Tandayapa.

27 May: Tandayapa Bird Lodge

This day we concentrated on the Lower Tandayapa Valley. At the lodge we spent some time watching the hummer feeders where we had 15 species, before we set off on the trails. Some of the hummingbirds seen here included the Green-fronted Lancebill, Purple-bibbed Whitetip, and the Violet-tailed Sylph. The rain was fairly heavy, but in this weather the intervening dry spells can be superb. We decided to walk the longer Antpitta Trail at the lodge and were rewarded by great views of the Ochre-breasted Antpitta and poor views of the recently rediscovered Moustached Antpitta. Other good birds of the day included the Toucan Barbet (a birthday present for Andrew), Immaculate Antbird, Nariño Tapaculo, Scaled  Fruiteater, Golden-winged Manakin and the usual mass of tanagers including the Golden, Metallic- green and Beryl-spangled Tanagers.

28 May: Pedro Vicente Maldonado

Another early morning had us to Pedro for dawn. The area is being trashed, but the birding remains very good at times. The strange thing about this disturbed lowland forest is that it remains active until much later than the intact forest reserves. We had some great birds here today such as the Cinnamon and Chocó Woodpeckers, Pacific, Checker-throated, White-flanked and Dot-winged Antwrens, White-throated Spadebill and some common but spectacular birds such as the Purple and Green Honeycreepers.

29 May: Upper Tandayapa Valley

The Upper Tandayapa Valley, though very close to the Lodge, can have very different birding. The day here was very good with good flocks, incredible views of the Ocellated Tapaculos at close range and Beautiful Jays. The afternoon was spent searching for the Plate-billed Mountain-Toucan in vain, but we did pick up the Crimson-mantled Woodpecker and Chestnut-crowned Antpitta. Other birds seen today include the White-rumped Hawk, Barred Hawk, Rufous-bellied Nighthawk and the Barred Becard.

30 May: Four Rivers and an Oilbird

This morning we headed to a reserve called Four Rivers at around 800m elevation. While I like birding in light drizzle, none of us were too happy with the torrential downpour we had to put up with for the first 4 hours. We were wet and miserable when the rain suddenly let up and we had a full morning of activity in an hour. The birding was fantastic with a flock at an antswarm, which included Esmeraldas and Chesnut-backed Antbirds, White-flanked and Slaty Antwrens, and a Black-headed Antthrush that circled us a few times. We headed back to Tandayapa in the afternoon to find Trevor Ellery (another Tropical Birding guide) with a smug look on his face saying that the Oilbird had returned to Tandayapa, but had moved three inches from the old site. A forty-minute hike was needed, but we had great views and I noted that it was now facing the other direction, something that Trevor had failed to tell us. Good looks at the Long-tailed Antbird made the walk back to the lodge easier to handle.

31 May: Slow day above

I always use this day as a “clean-up day”. Because Andrew and Ann really wanted the Plate-billed Mountain Toucan and our plan was to go after the endemics, we forwent bigger numbers and decided to make the effort to see this guy. The morning was excruciating, with us seeing many other species, and hearing at least five groups of the Toucan, but it was a constant no-show. At noon we went for lunch feeling as though we had failed. Lunch and a few cups of coffee had us ready to try again, and within half an hour of our departure we had the birds with great views of a couple of individuals. The rest of the day was spent on the skulkers with species such as Striped Treehunter, Plain-tailed Wren and the Chestnut-capped Brush-Finch.

1 June: Pedro on the way to Santo Domingo

We were all slowing down a little, and although this was a long day, much of it was spent asleep in the car during the long drive. We started with dawn at the entrance road to the Pedro site we visited days earlier.  Here we were greeted with Laughing Falcon, Northern Violaceous Trogon, Orange-fronted Barbet, and Chestnut-mandibled Toucan. We headed to a riverside road near Puerto Quito where we had White-bearded Manakins lekking, Scarlet-rumped Cacique, White-whiskered Puffbird and Sooty-crowned Flycatcher. In the afternoon we drove to Santa Domingo and we had the Ecuadorian Thrush in the car park of the hotel.

2 June: Rio Palenque

Rio Palenque is a postage stamp sized reserve in a sea of agriculture south of Santo Domingo. The birding here is very good, though there is a constant feeling that you are close to the edge of the encroaching farmland. We arrived for dawn and when we parked near the station we were greeted by a pair of Guayaquil Woodpeckers making a nest and a noisy group of Band-backed Wrens. The birding for the rest of the day was very good and we had all the trogons including an immature Ecuadorian Trogon that looked an almost ringer for a much rarer Slaty-tailed Trogon, including responding to its call. We also had very good looks at the Dusky Antbird, Grey-breasted Flycatcher, and Blue-black Grosbeak. There was one tree in full fruit, and we had a flock that seemed to go on forever; we picked up many of the tanagers that we had had poorer views of earlier.

3 June: A change of plan.

After a very early start to Rio Palenque, we were greeted with very heavy rain. When my recording gear packed it in because of the rain, and no one wanted to leave the car a plan had to be made. I put it to the group that we were going to get soaked for a possible six new birds, or we could make a run for it to Chone Lakes. Chone was a long drive and definitely not on our schedule, but at least we could bird from the car there. Being British, Ann and Andrew could not resist the thought of waders, ducks and a chance of a gull, so they went for it. The three hour drive was not in vain, as Chone was pumping, and Ann thought it a nice change from trail birding. At the lakes we added many new species to the trip list including a load of herons, a few ducks, Laughing Gull, Magnificent Frigatebird, White-tailed Kite, Savanna Hawk, Red-masked Parakeet, Pacific Parrotlet and a Chestnut-throated Seedeater. Although the guests loved the day, they could tell that I was not impressed with the lack of antbirds, antwrens, antpittas, in fact, anything anty at all.

4 June: Tinalandia

Today we just birded the grounds of Tinalandia. We had birded a similar elevation at Four Rivers, but there were some species there that we had missed, and the birding is fairly easy here.  Birds seen today include the Bat Falcon, Rufous-fronted Wood-Quail, Pallid Dove, Short-tailed Nighthawk, Rufous and Broad-billed Motmots, and great looks at a Golden-crowned Spadebill.

5 June: Cotopaxi

We had an early breakfast and headed up the mountains to Cotopaxi, which is a more than slightly impressive active volcano south of Quito. We arrived to find the entrance was free today as long as we picked up any rubbish we could find, and the National Parks board was rewarded later by an eggshell that Ann found on the trail. We birded the shrubby habitat just below the lake and had good looks at the Brown-backed Chat-Tyrant, a common bird but one we missed earlier at Yanacocha. Around the main lake we had Andean Lapwings that Andrew just had to photograph, and Andean Gulls were common. We walked around the lake and had Ecaudorian Rail as well as the usual lake birds there. On the drive up the side of the Volcano we had the Stout-billed and Bar-winged Cinclodes, and then we had stunning views of the Ecuadorian Hillstar. A heavy afternoon shower brought a close of play and we arrived back in Quito in the late afternoon.

6 June: Out of the office and looking at White-tailed Shrike-Tyrants

Andrew and Ann were planning to do some shopping before flying out and I was supposed to get some work done in the office. Before noon, I recieved the call from Andrew saying that he wanted to go birding, but Ann thought that I would be too busy to go out again. A quick look at the mountain of emails I had to respond to, and we made a plan to go to the Virgin of Calacalí for the afternoon. This is a dry area on the edge of Quito, which is not a pretty place but has some great birds that are hard elsewhere. On the way I explained that they should not expect more than a few birds in the afternoon, but I was made a liar when we saw the very rare White-tailed Shrike-Tyrant, Ash-breasted Sierra-Finch and the Tufted Tit-Tyrant all in a few minutes. Within the next hour we had 8 more species including Variable Hawk, Hooded Siskin, Common Ground-Dove, Golden-rumped Euphonia, Southern Yellow-Grosbeak and Giant Hummingbird. The trip was capped off by a few beers in Quito and there was serious discussion of when we can do a Southern Ecuador tour to start on the Tumbesian endemics.

The trip was very successful with 382 species seen by the guests in 12 days birding and an afternoon in trashed habitat. Most of the species were seen well, and this was helped by the small group size. I think that in future tours, we will always have a few “plan B´s” in case we are either rained out in one area or we clean-up earlier than planned.

TOUR LIST
380 species were seen on this tour.
Taxonomy and nomenclature follow The Birds of Ecuador by Robert S. Ridgely and Paul J. Greenfield.

GREBES
Least Grebe
Pied-billed Grebe
FRIGATEBIRDS
Magnificent Frigatebird
CORMORANTS AND SHAGS
Neotropic Cormorant
DARTERS
Anhinga
DUCKS, GEESE, AND SWANS
Fulvous Whistling-Duck
Black-bellied Whistling-Duck
Andean Teal
HERONS, BITTERNS, AND EGRETS
Cocoi Heron
Great Egret
Snowy Egret
Tricolored Heron
Cattle Egret
Striated Heron
Black-crowned Night-Heron
IBISES AND SPOONBILLS
Glossy Ibis
AMERICAN VULTURES
Black Vulture
Turkey Vulture
KITES, EAGLES, HAWKS, AND OSPREY
Swallow-tailed Kite
White-tailed Kite
Plain-breasted Hawk
Barred Hawk
Savanna Hawk
Roadside Hawk
White-rumped Hawk
Variable Hawk
FALCONS AND CARACARAS
Carunculated Caracara
Laughing Falcon
American Kestrel
Bat Falcon
Peregrine Falcon
CURASSOWS, GUANS, AND CHACHALACAS
Andean Guan
Sickle-winged Guan
NEW WORLD QUAILS
Rufous-fronted Wood-Quail
RAILS, GALLINULES, AND COOTS
White-throated Crake
Clapper Rail
Ecuadorian Rail
Purple Gallinule
Common Gallinule
Andean Coot
JAÇANAS
Wattled Jaçana
PLOVERS AND LAPWINGS
Andean Lapwing
Killdeer
GULLS AND TERNS
Laughing Gull
PIGEONS AND DOVES
Rock Pigeon
Band-tailed Pigeon
Pale-vented Pigeon
Ruddy Pigeon
Plumbeous Pigeon
Dusky Pigeon
Eared Dove
Common Ground-Dove
Ecuadorian Ground-Dove
White-tipped Dove
Pallid Dove
White-throated Quail-Dove
PARROTS AND MACAWS
Red-masked Parakeet
Maroon-tailed Parakeet
Pacific Parrotlet
Blue-headed Parrot
Red-billed Parrot
White-capped Parrot
Bronze-winged Parrot
Scaly-naped Amazon
CUCKOOS AND ANIS
Gray-capped Cuckoo
Squirrel Cuckoo
Little Cuckoo
Smooth-billed Ani
Groove-billed Ani
OILBIRD
Oilbird
NIGHTJARS AND NIGHTHAWKS
Short-tailed Nighthawk
Rufous-bellied Nighthawk
Pauraque
Lyre-tailed Nightjar
SWIFTS
White-collared Swift
Chestnut-collared Swift
Chimney Swift
Gray-rumped Swift
Lesser Swallow-tailed Swift
HUMMINGBIRDS
White-whiskered Hermit
Tawny-bellied Hermit
Baron's Hermit
Stripe-throated Hermit
Green-fronted Lancebill
White-necked Jacobin
Brown Violet-ear
Green Violet-ear
Sparkling Violet-ear
Black-throated Mango
Western Emerald
Green-crowned Woodnymph
Rufous-tailed Hummingbird
Andean Emerald
Purple-chested Hummingbird
Speckled Hummingbird
Purple-bibbed Whitetip
Empress Brilliant
Green-crowned Brilliant
Ecuadorian Hillstar
Giant Hummingbird
Shining Sunbeam
Mountain Velvetbreast
Great Sapphirewing
Brown Inca
Collared Inca
Buff-winged Starfrontlet
Buff-tailed Coronet
Velvet-purple Coronet
Gorgeted Sunangel
Black-breasted Puffleg
Sapphire-vented Puffleg
Golden-breasted Puffleg
Black-tailed Trainbearer
Purple-backed Thornbill
Tyrian Metaltail
Rainbow-bearded Thornbill
Violet-tailed Sylph
Purple-crowned Fairy
Purple-throated Woodstar
White-bellied Woodstar
TROGONS AND QUETZALS
Crested Quetzal
Ecuadorian Trogon
Chocó Trogon
Western White-tailed Trogon
Collared Trogon
Masked Trogon
Northern Violaceous Trogon
KINGFISHERS
Ringed Kingfisher
Green Kingfisher
MOTMOTS
Broad-billed Motmot
Rufous Motmot
PUFFBIRDS
White-whiskered Puffbird
NEW WORLD BARBETS
Orange-fronted Barbet
Red-headed Barbet
Toucan Barbet
TOUCANS
Crimson-rumped Toucanet
Pale-mandibled Araçari
Plate-billed Mountain-Toucan
Chocó Toucan
Chestnut-mandibled Toucan
WOODPECKERS AND PICULETS
Olivaceous Piculet
Crimson-mantled Woodpecker
Golden-olive Woodpecker
Cinnamon Woodpecker
Lineated Woodpecker
Black-cheeked Woodpecker
Chocó Woodpecker
Red-rumped Woodpecker
Yellow-vented Woodpecker
Scarlet-backed Woodpecker
Guayaquil Woodpecker
Powerful Woodpecker
OVENBIRDS
Bar-winged Cinclodes
Stout-billed Cinclodes
Pacific Hornero
Azara's Spinetail
Slaty Spinetail
White-browed Spinetail
Red-faced Spinetail
Many-striped Canastero
Streaked Tuftedcheek
Pacific Tuftedcheek
Pearled Treerunner
Spotted Barbtail
Rusty-winged Barbtail
Lineated Foliage-gleaner
Buff-fronted Foliage-gleaner
Ruddy Foliage-gleaner
Striped Treehunter
Streak-capped Treehunter
Streaked Xenops
Plain Xenops
WOODCREEPERS
Plain-brown Woodcreeper
Wedge-billed Woodcreeper
Strong-billed Woodcreeper
Black-striped Woodcreeper
Spotted Woodcreeper
Streak-headed Woodcreeper
Montane Woodcreeper
Red-billed Scythebill
Brown-billed Scythebill
TYPICAL ANTBIRDS
Great Antshrike
Uniform Antshrike
Western Slaty-Antshrike
Plain Antvireo
Pacific Antwren
Checker-throated Antwren
White-flanked Antwren
Slaty Antwren
Dot-winged Antwren
Long-tailed Antbird
Dusky Antbird
White-backed Fire-eye
Immaculate Antbird
Chestnut-backed Antbird
Esmeraldas Antbird
Stub-tailed Antbird
ANTTHRUSHES AND ANTPITTAS
Black-headed Antthrush
Rufous-breasted Antthrush
Moustached Antpitta
Chestnut-crowned Antpitta
Ochre-breasted Antpitta
TAPACULOS
Unicolored Tapaculo
Nariño Tapaculo
Spillmann's Tapaculo
Ocellated Tapaculo
TYRANT FLYCATCHERS
Sooty-headed Tyrannulet
Golden-faced Tyrannulet
Brown-capped Tyrannulet
Southern Beardless-Tyrannulet
Yellow-bellied Elaenia
Sierran Elaenia
White-throated Tyrannulet
White-banded Tyrannulet
White-tailed Tyrannulet
Torrent Tyrannulet
Tufted Tit-Tyrant
Streak-necked Flycatcher
Olive-striped Flycatcher
Slaty-capped Flycatcher
Marble-faced Bristle-Tyrant
Yellow Tyrannulet
Bronze-olive Pygmy-Tyrant
Scale-crested Pygmy-Tyrant
Rufous-crowned Tody-Flycatcher
Black-headed Tody-Flycatcher
Common Tody-Flycatcher
Yellow-margined Flatbill
White-throated Spadebill
Golden-crowned Spadebill
Ornate Flycatcher
Ruddy-tailed Flycatcher
Sulphur-rumped Flycatcher
Flavescent Flycatcher
Bran-colored Flycatcher
Cinnamon Flycatcher
Smoke-colored Pewee
Gray-breasted Flycatcher
Black Phoebe
Vermilion Flycatcher
Brown-backed Chat-Tyrant
White-tailed Shrike-Tyrant
Páramo Ground-Tyrant
Long-tailed Tyrant
Masked Water-Tyrant
Rufous Mourner
Dusky-capped Flycatcher
Sooty-crowned Flycatcher
Boat-billed Flycatcher
Social Flycatcher
Rusty-margined Flycatcher
Streaked Flycatcher
Golden-crowned Flycatcher
Piratic Flycatcher
Tropical Kingbird
Snowy-throated Kingbird
Barred Becard
Cinnamon Becard
White-winged Becard
One-colored Becard
Masked Tityra
Black-crowned Tityra
COTINGAS
Barred Fruiteater
Green-and-black Fruiteater
Scaled Fruiteater
Olivaceous Piha
Purple-throated Fruitcrow
Andean Cock-of-the-rock
MANAKINS
Golden-winged Manakin
Club-winged Manakin
White-bearded Manakin
Green Manakin
CROWS, JAYS, AND MAGPIES
Turquoise Jay
Beautiful Jay
VIREOS, PEPPERSHRIKES, AND SHRIKE-VIREOS
Slaty-capped Shrike-Vireo
Red-eyed Vireo
Brown-capped Vireo
Lesser Greenlet
THRUSHES
Andean Solitaire
Pale-eyed Thrush
Great Thrush
Glossy-black Thrush
Ecuadorian Thrush
SWALLOWS AND MARTINS
Gray-breasted Martin
Brown-bellied Swallow
Blue-and-white Swallow
Southern Rough-winged Swallow
WRENS
Band-backed Wren
Bay Wren
Plain-tailed Wren
Whiskered Wren
House Wren
Gray-breasted Wood-Wren
GNATCATCHERS AND GNATWRENS
Tawny-faced Gnatwren
Tropical Gnatcatcher
NEW WORLD WARBLERS
Tropical Parula
Olive-crowned Yellowthroat
Slate-throated Whitestart
Spectacled Whitestart
Black-crested Warbler
Chocó Warbler
Three-striped Warbler
Russet-crowned Warbler
Buff-rumped Warbler
TANAGERS, HONEYCREEPERS, BANANAQUIT
Bananaquit
Purple Honeycreeper
Green Honeycreeper
Blue Dacnis
Yellow-tufted Dacnis
Cinereous Conebill
Blue-backed Conebill
Capped Conebill
Masked Flowerpiercer
Glossy Flowerpiercer
Black Flowerpiercer
White-sided Flowerpiercer
Guira Tanager
Thick-billed Euphonia
Golden-rumped Euphonia
Orange-bellied Euphonia
Orange-crowned Euphonia
Rufous-throated Tanager
Gray-and-gold Tanager
Golden Tanager
Silver-throated Tanager
Saffron-crowned Tanager
Flame-faced Tanager
Golden-naped Tanager
Metallic-green Tanager
Beryl-spangled Tanager
Blue-and-black Tanager
Black-capped Tanager
Blue-necked Tanager
Bay-headed Tanager
Golden-crowned Tanager
Scarlet-bellied Mountain-Tanager
Blue-winged Mountain-Tanager
Hooded Mountain-Tanager
Moss-backed Tanager
Grass-green Tanager
Swallow Tanager
Blue-gray Tanager
Palm Tanager
Blue-capped Tanager
Lemon-rumped Tanager
Ochre-breasted Tanager
Dusky-faced Tanager
White-shouldered Tanager
Dusky Bush-Tanager
Yellow-throated Bush-Tanager
Superciliaried Hemispingus
SALTATORS, GROSBEAKS, AND CARDINALS
Buff-throated Saltator
Black-winged Saltator
Slate-colored Grosbeak
Southern Yellow-Grosbeak
Blue-black Grosbeak
EMBERIZINE FINCHES
Blue-black Grassquit
Lesser Seed-Finch
Variable Seedeater
Black-and-white Seedeater
Yellow-bellied Seedeater
Chestnut-throated Seedeater
Band-tailed Seedeater
Ash-breasted Sierra-Finch
Grassland Yellow-Finch
Rufous-naped Brush-Finch
Tricolored Brush-Finch
White-winged Brush-Finch
Chestnut-capped Brush-Finch
Orange-billed Sparrow
Rufous-collared Sparrow
AMERICAN ORIOLES AND BLACKBIRDS
Scarlet-rumped Cacique
Russet-backed Oropendola
Shiny Cowbird
Giant Cowbird
Scrub Blackbird
Yellow-tailed Oriole
Peruvian Meadowlark
CARDUELINE FINCHES
Hooded Siskin
OLD WORLD SPARROWS
House Sparrow