NAMIBIA
The living Desert
16th -31st October 2004
Leader : Christian Boix
Photographs
: Christian Boix, John Anderson and Ian Fulton
The charismatic and recently described Damara Hornbill
“-Overall this trip was a blast. Three aspects made it possible, great birds, great countryside and an absolute gem of a guy called Christian. I know he only had two people to look after but he really was first class both as a birder and as a friend. I certainly hope to meet up with him again on another trip. I don't need to say anymore” J.Anderson (2004).
Trip Itinerary :
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16 October |
Airport pick-up, Windhoek (Avis dam, Sewage works…) |
|
17 October |
Avis dam, Gamsberg road C26, Nauchas, Spreetshoogte Pass |
|
18 October |
Spreetshoogte, Solitaire, Homeb, Walvis Bay |
|
19 October |
Walvis Bay and Rooibank |
|
20 October |
Walvis Bay, Spitzkoppe, Omaruru, Epako Lodge (night drive) |
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21 October |
Epako Lodge, Omaruru Kopje |
|
22 October |
Epako Lodge, Outjo,
Okakuejo (Etosha NP) |
|
23 October |
Okakuejo-Halali-Namutoni |
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24 October |
Namutoni-Andoni-Rundu-Okavango River |
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25 October |
Okavango River (Shamvura Camp) |
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26 October |
Okavango River-Popa Falls-Babwata GR. |
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27 October |
Shakawe Fishing Lodge (Botswana) |
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28 October |
Shakawe Fishing Lodge (Botswana) |
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29 October |
Shakawe - Okavango River (Shamvura Camp) |
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30 October |
Okavango River (Shamvura Camp)- Waterberg NP |
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31 October |
Waterberg NP – Windhoek-Fly-out |
Trip Highlights :
October, 16th : Before I could even memorise who John and Iain
were, their introductory remark after the 12 hour flight was : “
Christian….Lets go birding” and it was this eagerness and enthusiasm that set
the pace for one of the most memorable birding trips in Namibia I have had the
pleasure to guide. Straight off the airport near-endemics started to reel in
Northern Black Korhaan, SA Cliff Swallow, Whitebacked Mousebird, Southern
Ant-eating Chat, Short-toed Rock Thrush and
Burchell’s Starling. Other “barb & phone wire specials” included
Familiar Chat, Marico Chat, Lilac breasted and Purple Roller, Southern
Yellowbilled Hornbill, Scaly feathered and Redheaded Finch, and a well studied
carcass of a freshly killed Southern Whitefaced Owl.
Having
dropped our suitcases and freshened up slightly we drove to Avis Dam where we
spent a few hours birding some excellent dry savanna scrub, feasting on
Rockrunners, Bradfield’s Swift, Swallowtailed Bee-eaters (photo below), Goldenbreasted Bunting, Crimson breasted Shrike,
Violet-eared Waxbill, Marico and Scarletchested Sunbird, Scimitar billed
Woodhoopoe, Brubru, Blackcheeked Waxbill, Blackchested Prinia, Pririt Batis and
Redbilled Buffalo Weaver among others.
The last hours of the afternoon were
spent at the Gammams Sewage treatment plant racking up a few more species
before calling it a day. We were
particularly pleased to see African Black Duck, SA Shelduck, Little Bittern and
Pearl-breasted Swallow, and enjoyed close up views of Hottentot, Cape and
Redbilled Teal, Southern Pochard, Darter, White breasted Cormorant, African
Jacana, Squacco Heron, Black Crake, Redbilled Francolin, White throated
Swallow, the first Barn Swallow of the year, Pintail Whydah, Red Bishop, Cape
and African Marsh Warblers.
The light dimmed
on us and the final count was a whopping 100 odd species after a barely 3,5
hour birding stint. Cold Namibian beer,
a West African meal and a few more beers capped the first day of the tour.
October, 17th : A
pre-dawn break for the hills surrounding Windhoek set us up to clench the
elusive and early-rising Orange River Francolin…which after a few nerve racking
minutes of not knowing if we should charge towards it, or wait for it to
approach….showed itself beautifully calling back with an entourage of females
feeding around the male, great views of a great bird and great start to the
day. The walk back to the car yielded a few more welcome species such as Three streaked
Tchagra, African Barred Warbler, Desert Cisticola and Ashy Tit to mention some.
Shortly
after breakfast we hit the road towards Spreets hoogte on the Khomas Hochland. No sooner had we left the outskirts of Windhoek
a pair of Monteiro’s Hornbills (photo
right) welcomed us into the wilderness, the recently split Damara Hornbill
showed up beautifully next to the road, Mountain Wheatear and Chat Flycatcher
heralded the fence lines. A
Rufous-eared Warbler and a stately Kori Bustard.made a surprise early
appearance barely 20 kms outside Windhoek.
The
systematic search of active Sociable Weaver nests soon paid off and the first
of many Pigmy Falcon, as well as several handsome Rosyfaced Lovebirds where
clenched. Pale Chanting Goshawks adorned
the telephone poles throughout the route (photo
left). A beef carcass next to the road attracted a kettle of 20 Whitebacked
Vultures and nine Lappetfaced Vultures as well as a few Tawny Eagles and a
solitary Black-chested snake Eagle.
Along the
road Sabota Lark (the thickbilled morph) , Buffy and Longbilled Pipits were
abundant.
A short walk
along a dry river bed in search of Pied Babblers, yielded African Hoopoe, Grey
Go-away Bird, African Hawk Eagle a sun burnt scalp, a thirst to kill and the
need to backtrack our steps in search of Iain’s new video camera which had
surreptitiously slipped out of 
the camera bag coming down and
embankment. It was soon tracked down and we set off without further delays to the
edge of the escarpment. Near Nauchas a brief
stop to admire a pair of White-tailed Shrikes also produced Karoo Longbilled
Lark, Cape and Larklike Bunting, Layard’s Titbabbler, Yellow Canary and
Bokmakierie. The reception committee at Namibgrens Guesthouse was a very confiding
Karoo Robin.
We ended
the day birding the base of the Spreetshoogte Pass adding Verreaux’s Eagle,
Whitethroated Canary, Greybacked Cisticola, Palewinged Starling and witnessed
how an Augur Buzzard feasted on a Dassie rat next to the road.
On the
mammal front we had many grazing Springbok along the C26, several Warthog and
startled Steenbok plus a few Kudus coming down to drink placidly at Namibgrens
Guest farm.
October, 18th : Today was a long, dry and dusty day crossing
the gravel and sandy plains of the Namib (photo
above) but not without well staked out rewards which one by one rendered
much deserved joy to our epic hot journey.
We started the day enjoying a very young Verreaux’s chick about to
fledge clinging at the edge of its nest, plus a herd of Hartmaan’s Zebra
grazing in this rugged wilderness atop the escarpment. At the top of Spreetshoogte pass we were surprised by
Fawncoloured Lark feeding next to Sabotas Lark. Nearing the lower reaches of the pass we came across and
impressive Ludwig’s Bustard male and whilst still savouring its beauty a pair
of near-endemic Rupell’s Korhaans crossed the road ahead of us.
The
obligate stop at Solitaire for petrol, coffee and appfeltart was rewarded with
great views of Cape Sparrow, Lanner Falcon, Greater Kestrel, Ground Squirrels
and Yellow Mongoose
The gravel
plains near Zebra Pan were sizzling hot by the time we reached them,
nonetheless several groups of Gray’s Lark were found, Trac-trac Chats (photo left) played hard to get but were
eventually located (an interesting pair formed by a pale coastal form
individual and the browner plains form, were seen together). Ostriches were confiding and abundant and
Karoo Chats inquisitive as ever.
At Homeb we
were treated to several close up views of Orange River White-eye. Hot and tired
we pressed on for the cool mists of Walvis Bay where we birded briefly the freshwater
ponds and the esplanade before calling it a day. The ponds yielded Cape Shoveler, Purple Swamphen, Kelp Gull,
Hartlaubs Gull, Greyheaded Gull, Lesser and Greater Flamingo and Great White
Pelican.
The
esplanade was teeming with waders but one in specific, Chestnutbanded Plover,
brought some closure to Johns ordeal with this species….after many dipping
attempts and years of unsuccessful chase in Kenya and South Africa. Other
species enjoyed included Damara Tern, Caspian Tern, White fronted Plover,
Curlew Sandpiper, Sanderling, Turnstone, Pied Avocet, Grey Plover, Sanderling,
Whimbrel, Bar-tailed Godwit and many others.
Mammalwise
today we added the regal Oryx, the agile Klipspringer, sly Black-backed Jackal
and the recently split Mountain Ground Squirrel.
Supper at
the new Aquarius hotel was scrumptious and laying down our bones for a well
deserved rest….bliss.
October, 19th : In the early morning we were picked
up by 4x4’s and set off to Pelican
Point from where we reached the lagoon’s mouth by Kayak and were treated to
arms length views of Cape Gannet, Arctic Skuas, more Damara Terns, White chinned
Petrel, Sooty Shearwater and played about with a few pods Heavyside dolphin (a Benguela
endemic) and the ubiquitous Cape Fur Seals. Near Donkey bay we came across
several coast scavenging Black-backed Jackals, one of them nurturing a week old
pup.
The early
afternoon was spent wader watching, not much was added other than Redshank and
Rednecked Phalarope. A siberian morph
of Peregrine Falcon, quarry in talons, darted past our car and settled in the
glimmery hazes of some distant dunes.
Saturated of waders and flamingoes we decided to drive to Rooibank to
look for Dune Lark and possibly free us from having to do so the following
morning.
After 30
minutes of walking amongst red sand dunes we picked up fresh tracks of this
cryptic yet elegant lark, and ten minutes later we were enjoying cracking views
of what is potentially the only true endemic bird species in Namibia, perched
on a dune crest, preening and feeding at the base of a grass tussock and some Nara
melon bushes.
We bid
farewell to the day at the Guano platforms enjoying Crowned, Whitebreasted and
Cape Cormorants coming in to roost by the thousands.
October 20th : A very early start ensured that by
sunrise we were enjoying gob-smacking views of Spitzkoppe bathed in orange sunrise
light. Spikeheeled Larks feeding youngsters welcomed us by the road edge,
Gray’s Larks flitted off the gravel
plains as we drove past, the white rumped morph of Karoo Chats and Trac-trac
Chats dotted the fence lines, and several choirs of Ruppell’s Korhaan (photo below) were calling from distant
ridges.
We tried the normal birding access
route into Spitzkoppe, but a dense coastal fog bank set in and stole precious
time and cool hours from our schedule.
We backtracked and approached Spitzkoppe from a different access road. Our
first reward came in the form of a very large family of Meerkats which scuttled
off, tails aloft, only to stop at a safe distance and stare at us from raised
heels. Whilst admiring the latter we heard
the faint croakings of Burchell’s
Coursers, and soon enough we tracked down a small group and enjoyed prolongued scope
views of this unpredictable and highly nomadic rain tracking species.
Flocks of
Namaqua Sandgrouse cruised the skies in search of water supplies.
The walk
around Spitzkoppe was brief yet efficient, managing to locate a non-territorial
Herrero Chat (photo below left) in
less than 10 minutes after reaching its territory. Its characteristic and purposeful, low and fast flight pattern stood
out from the remaining bird traffic in the area. Once located we enjoyed great
scope views of the bird. Several morphs
of Mountain Chat were noticed during our walk as well as several Benguela Larks
on the northern gravel plains. Whitethroated Canaries appeared busy building
nests whilst Yellow Canaries and Larklike Buntings shunted back and forth from
water pools.
En route to
Omaruru we stopped briefly at the Khan River, which rewarded us with great
views of 
foraging Violet Woodhoopoes, our
first African Cuckoo, three chattering and feeding Ruppell’s Parrots, an inter-territorial
dispute amongst White-tailed Shrikes, several Bearded Woodpeckers, a Pearl spotted
owlet eating a small bird, Whitebrowed Scrub-Robin, Damara, Grey and
S.Yellowbilled Hornbill.
With the
heat building up, we headed for our accommodation at Epako Game Lodge.
In the
afternoon we walked up one of the koppies (hills) surrounding camp and bagged
Carp’s Black Tit, S Whitecrowned Shrike, Cinnamon breasted Bunting, Redfaced
Mousebird and had the chance to enjoy a fair amount of game, namely Giraffe,
Blue Wildebeest, Burchell’s Zebra, Kudu, Impala, Oryx, Springbok, Damara
Dik-dik and even flushed the rare and reclusive Jameson’s Red Rock rabbit. Gin and tonics with the resident pair of
White Rhinos down below, summed up another great day.
After
supper we embarked on a night drive that proved to be more successful than
anticipated, yielding African Scops Owl, several Red crested Korhaans, a
beautiful African Wild Cat and several Black-backed Jackals.
October 21st :
Today we set off before sunrise to a well-staked out area near Omaruru
where Hartlaub’s Francolins are not shy to perform. Soon after reaching the
spot and setting up the scope, the first duet burst into song, these were
swiftly located on a distant boulder and enjoyed, but the show was not over yet
and the pair flew towards us and called again from a few meters away, in the
open and well lighted bringing out all their features.
Whilst we walked out of this granite
boulder ravine Monteiro’s hornbill, Rockrunner, Carp’s Tit and several
White-tailed Shrikes put up an appearance, reminder of what an excellent
endemic hotspot the Erongo mountains are.
As the
morning progressed and it got hotter, we seeked refuge under the thick branches
of Anna and Camelthorn Trees in the Omaruru river. More Ruppell’s Parrots
offered fly-by views, Bearded and Cardinal Woodpeckers were busy nest building.
But the quarry we were after, Pied Babbler, was no-where to be heard. We flushed and followed a Verreaux’s Eagle
Owl (photo right) for a while soaking
in the some great views. On the way out of the river we located a pair of Black
Eagles soaring near their nest.
We stopped
at Erongo Wilderness Lodge for coffee and enjoyed their bird bath and feeder
allowing John and Iain some excellent chances to photograph Rosy faced Lovebird
(photo below), Acacia Pied Barbet,
Violet-eared Waxbill, Golden breasted Bunting, Namibia Rock Agamas and shy
Dassie rats. Driving back to Epako
Lodge we came across a flock of Chestnut Weavers which unfortunately were not
in breeding plumage, but their pale brown eyes and thickset bills gave them
away.
When the heat dropped and bird
activity picked up again, we headed out on the Uis road towards an alternative
spot where I had seen Pied Babblers before. It took a good hour to locate them
as they refused to reply to any playback, but in the end we found a unit of
three individuals foraging. A short
burst of playback got the attention of the sentry bird which came and perched
inquisitively out in the open.
We returned
to Epako and had an early night in order to leave a.s.a.p the following morning
and allow for some birding en route towards Etosha
October 22nd : The morning started on a high note
with a splendid specimen of Martial eagle perched next to the road followed by
several stately Tawny eagles heralding their respective koppies. A combination of back roads, road verges and
short grass fields en route to Etosha produced a suite of desirable new species
such as Stark’s Lark, Grey backed Finchlark, loads of singing Fawn coloured
Larks and a welcome Burchell’s Sandgrouse.
On arrival at Okakuejo we gathered
at the waterhole where after scattering a bit of bird feed about we soon gathered a welcome crowd of Sociable
Weavers as well as some rather desirable species like Shaft-tailed Whydah (albeit
not in breeding plumage) and Black-throated Canary. The waterhole itself was well attended by Springbok, Oryx and
Kudu and amongst them flocks of Red capped Larks squeezed by to the waters
edge. A raucous pair of Black Crows set the backstage and a dopey pair of
Spotted Dikkops stood motionless in the shadow of an uprooted tree.
The
afternoon was spent driving towards Olifanstbad and Goas, via
Gemsbokvlakte. Kori Bustards displayed
everywhere, several Black Korhaan and Redcrested Korhaan were enjoyed standing
next to the road. At Newbrownii we caught
up with a single Southern Grey Tit a bird that is more commonly seen further
south than these latitudes. Ian spotted our first Lion of the trip, a cub that
had just come out from beneath the road culvert and laid panting besides the
road. Throughout the afternoon we came across several Double-banded Coursers (photo above right). Gemsbokvlakte was teeming with Stark´s,
Pinkbilled and Spikeheeled Larks as well as Yellowbellied Eremomelas, plus it
did not took long to spot some more Rufous-eared Warblers (photo below left).
At Aus we enjoyed a Purple Roller
rolling and the first set of Redbreasted Swallows of the trip. A quick drive to
Ondongab produced another beautiful male Ludwig’s Bustard.
Much of the
afternoon was spent taking some time watching Elephants drinking and bathing,
following a female herd, and enjoying two massive white mud coated bulls that
chomped through a spiny meal right next to the road. The extremely cautious and complicated approach of a Giraffe
coming in for a drink and the theatrics that always take place within
Burchell’s Zebra herds. Bright golden light squeezed through the clouds and a
backdrop of lead grey storm menacing clouds bringing to life the plains which
were clad with Wildebeest, Springbok, Oryx and Zebra on their northern
migration.
At Leeubron
we bump into a young Lion pride cryptically positioned along a game trail that
lead into Leeubron.
Before
calling it a day we drove towards Okondeka via Leeubron and stopped at a large
Camelthorn which seems to have become a favourite playground for this years
batch of Rednecked Falcons, unmistakably in front of us 5 Red necked falcons
frolicked in the wind chasing each other and stooping about and around the
tree.
Before
supper we gathered around the waterhole and watched Doublebanded Sandgrouse
rain from every direction over the waterhole with their melodious approach
whistle. After supper the floodlit
waterhole produced a single Black Rhinoceros.
October 23rd : The day could not have started
better, at 05h00 we were awaken by the thunderous roar of lion at the
waterhole. The drive through to Halali will be remembered by the various prides
of lion we bumped into. A first one of
six individuals all dopey and potbellied suggested a successful evening. The
second one of 8 had three adult males in it, two contesting for a female in
oestrous and the remaining 5 trying to keep the Jackals at bay from their
kill. A very worthwhile sighting was a
graceful Cape Fox strutting across the plains near Salvadora.
Last nights
rain had the Monotonous Larks all in arms and their calls swamped the
atmosphere at the mopane woodlands.
At the open
plains, a steady flow of low flying Eurasian Swifts allowed us to hope that the
heat would subside soon and the rains to the north would push some of the
migrants we were looking for, namely Caspian Plover. No plovers this day, but
we did manage to catch a glimpse of a Blackwinged Pratincole and follow it for
a while till it landed, an unusual bird for Etosha.
Many
Bateleurs (photo right) were sighted throughout
the morning, and at a fresh kill we lucked upon a flock of vultures descend on it and feasting on leftovers. In a
matter of minutes several Lappetfaceds, White backeds, Bateleurs and a single
yet very welcome Whiteheaded Vulture congregated right in front of us.
We reached
Halali at midday and after a quick snack, bagged our main target here,
Barecheeked Babbler (photo below). A
begging chick was spotted quivering in a branch, soon to be fed by its parents.
We followed and photographed the foraging parents till we were saturated and
then left. Near Moringa waterhole we
spished in a pair of Southern Black
Tits.
En route to
Namutoni, we followed a pair of strutting Secretary Birds and watched how one
of them stamped and caught a small snake. Game was plentiful, albeit a searing
heat was building up.
October 24th : We decided to leave Etosha via
Andoni Plains, coming across a large pride of Lions resting their weary bones
next to the road at Fisher’s Pan and pair of regal Blue Cranes strutting placidly
along 
the Pans edge. Not far from Klein Okevi the bush became
alive with the distinctive trills of Fawncoloured Larks. Before reaching Andoni a few more Monotonous
Larks were seen and heard calling, whilst Clapper Larks in the thousands of
flapped and whistled above grass level creating an awesome all-surround sight
and sound. A single pair of Flappet larks displayed just outside the parks
entrance. Quartering the grasslands a buoyant
Montagu Harrier female and a stunning Pallid Harrrier (male) searched the
grasslands.
Outside
Andoni gate, we scoured the short grass for Caspian Plovers, but they were
nowhere to be seen, instead we found several Temminck’s Coursers. At the
artesian well outside Andoni gate a plethora of waders had gathered, mostly
Ruff, Little Stint, Avocet, Wood, Marsh and Common Sandpiper as well as
Greenshank. Two good migratory omens
made an appearance Steppe Buzzard and Lesser Grey Shrike raising our hopes for some
more intra-african migrant flux.
The drive
through to Shamvura Lodge in Kavango, was hot and long, we did not stopped for
much as neither John or Ian handled well the heat and our prime concern was to
get there in time to launch for a river cruise. The drive was nonetheless spiced up by a stunning male of Coqui
Francolin (photo right) crossing the
road between Rundu and Shamvura and several Dark Chanting Goshawks perched next
to the road.
On arrival
at Shamvura Mark summoned us on to the deck were he had his scope trained on a 
small drying pool festering with
Barbel (Catfish) and duly attended by hordes of Marabou, Openbilled,
Woollynecked and a few Abdim Storks.
From the tree-top chalet we scored Pale Flycatcher, Lesser Honeyguide,
Violet backed Starling and Common Bulbul.
After a welcome
rest to take the bite off the heat we embarked on a short cruise down the
Kavango river and were soon rewarded with grand views of breeding African
Skimmers, Rufous bellied, Squacco, Green backed and Great White Herons. Pied and
Malachite Kingfishers were seen hanging over the waters edge. Collared Pratincoles rested in the sand banks
and Little bee-eaters sallied over the water as we made our way downstream. At
the colony, hundreds of Carmine Bee-eaters glided above us in sunset light. The
first pair of African Fish Eagles made an appearance, followed by a single
Wahlberg’s Eagle. A lonely African Marsh Harrier capped a harrier hatrick for
the day.
As the
light dimmed off scores of Mourning Doves glided down to the rivers edge for a
drink, and Copperytailed Coucals perched precariously on flimsy Phragmite, bubbled
away at almost unison.
As we drifted
silently along the bank, the peace was disturbed by a brief glimpse of a
gliding Marsh Owl, this unleashed such an almighty urge to reach the nearest
sand bank, that it would have made D-day look like a beach pic-nic. Gathering
energies from where there were none, John, Ian and myself flew across the
grassy plain towards where the Owl had landed. We inched our way closer to the
spot with baited breath until a stunning Marsh Owl flushed up a few meters
ahead of us gliding gently around us and offering smashing views plus an end to
John’s long dark dipping history with this species.
Elated we
returned to the boat ( and more beers were had!!) and enjoyed further good
views Southern Brown-throated and Village Weaver, African Stonechat, Tawny flanked
Prinia, a colony of Brown throated Martins, calling Swamp Nightjars and
Square-tailed Nightjars hawking over the river.
A short
night drive after supper, along the dirt tracks that fringe the river, produced
Fiery necked Nightjar, Scops Owl, several Lesser Bushbabies, a ghostly, yet
most welcome Bronze winged Courser, a potential European Nightjar that did not
sit long enough and two African Wild Cats.
October 25th : We started our day having breakfast
on the deck overlooking the Kavango river hoping to see Greyheaded Parrots, but
these were earlier than expected, overflying the deck at least one hour earlier than scheduled. Their distinct
chitter-chaterr squeaks were heard a few times coming from some distant
fruiting figs but no tickable views were obtained this morning. Instead we had
eye level cracking views of Meyer’s Parrots throughout the morning
Leaving Shamvura we were confronted
with one of the most terrifying scenes I have ever witnessed in Africa. What
seemed a distant Redbilled Quelea flock or fine spray of yellow particles one
second, became an overwhelming swarm of locusts making their way back to
Angola. In seconds our car was engulfed
by flying, crawling, crashing locusts swirling in all directions. For a few
seconds they were everywhere filling the horizon, oozing out of the woodland,
crawling over the road and verges etc…I think we all realised we had never
truly understood the true meaning and significance of this classic African
epidemic .
Once
recovered and somewhat exhilarated by the experience, we headed into some prime
woodland blocks along the main tarr road where we racked a healthy number of specials
namely Ayre’s Hawk Eagle, Stierlings Barred Warbler, Tinkling Cisticola, Yellow
White-eye, Arnot’s Chat (photo right)
and the elusive Rufous-bellied Tit. The latter two species feeding young. Other
welcome species for the morning included Blackheaded and African Golden
Orioles, Green Woodhoopoe, Kurrichane Thrush, S. Black Flycatcher, White
Helmetshrike, Chinspot Batis, Redheaded Weaver and Yellowthroated Petronia.
Lunch was
followed by a siesta and in the afternoon we drifted back into the river and
leisurely soaked up an active Southern carmine Bee-eater colony, latched on to several
Grey rumped Swallows and Banded Martins within dense flocks of Brown throated
Martins. We were teased by the calls of Streakybreasted Fluftails emanating
from flooded grassy banks, but these were not responsive at all. Swamp Boubou were easily teased in and
whilst fishing next to a heronry we added Great White and Yellowbilled Egret to
the list as well as Black heron. We also spished out a Luapula Cisticola and an
accompanying entourage of Golden Weavers. Sunset was most enjoyable as a flock of
White winged and Whiskered Terns, countless Rock Pratincoles, overflying
Hamerkops, Steppe Eagles and 17 Skimmers flew at quasi unison across a
bloodshot Kavango sky.
October 26th : A second, and earlier attempt at
clenching Greyheaded Parrots was more successful today, with a flock of six
birds, flying overhead and landing nearby at a fruiting fig tree, with a later
view of the whole flock cruising towards Angola and socialising atop a dead
snag. Breakfast at the verandah was shared with a number of very confiding
species such as Blackcollared Barbet, Arrowmarked Babbler, Yellowbellied
Greenbul (photo left) and Gabar
Goshawk.
En route to
Mahango GR a quick incursion into some mature woodland produced the a flock of White Helmetshrikes, African
Hoopoe and a superb Racket-tailed Roller in top notch condition. At Divundu we
clocked in Lesser Striped Swallow.
A short
walk in Popa Falls during the heat of the day got us grand views of a fishing
Giant Kingfisher, perched flocks of Meve’s Longtailed Starling, several noisy
gaggles of Hartlaub’s Babbler, Terrestrial Bulbul, White browed Robin Chat and
Wire tailed Swallow near the waters edge.
After lunch
we ventured into the sandy tracks of Babwata NP, on arrival we struck it lucky
with a Lizard Buzard perched next to the road, a young Martial eagle soaring
above, Gabar Goshawk at Buffalo camp and Gymnogene as well as African Goshawk
next to the floodplain. A few meters
beyond the entrance gate a flock of Retz’s Helmetshrikes slowed down by a few
youngsters allowing soaking views of this superb bird. A pair of Mosque
Swallows whirled in the proximity of a Baobab. Some distance away from the road
we spotted our first of the trip and final Roller species of the list,
Broadbilled Roller.
Walking
through the dilapidated barracks of Buffalo Camp we scored Goldentailed
Woodpecker, Spotted Flycatcher, Yellowbreasted Apalis, Icterine Warbler and
loads of Greater Blue eared Starlings. Several Swainson’s and Crested Francolins
scuttled across the road ahead of us as we sailed through deep sands down to
the floodplain. Heavy Cape Buffalo
traffic was evident on the tracks so we crept silently beyond the bushes and
sat at the floodplains edge, in front of us an impressive 350 strong herd of
Cape Buffalo grazed placidly. A large flock of mixed Yellowbilled (photo left) and Redbilled Oxpeckers
serviced the herd. Large numbers of Jacanas flushed from the flooded grasses as
the herd moved, and amongst them we spotted several Longtoed Plovers doing the
same.
Birding the wooded banks offered
superb commanding views over a myriad of flooded plains where we had great views
of Saddlebilled and Yellowbilled Storks, African Spoonbill, Goliath Heron, Spur
winged Goose, Whitefaced Ducks, Black Kite and a Lesser Spotted Eagle.
A few
meters down the road, a group of three Wattled Cranes, 2 ads and one chick,
stood regally a few meters away from us. In the distance another pair waltzed
and jumped across the floodplain near the track…so we pushed ahead.
BUT!! a few
yards ahead a wrong turn got us awefully stuck in the sand. Thirty minutes of digging and pushing, and
some assistance from the local ranger, had us on the go once again and heading
out of the park in haste as we were already late for the gate. Whilst digging
ourselves out, we were inquisitively ogled by a magnificent Sable Antelope
coming down to drink.
As we
cruised out of the park our luck was challenged again… ahead of us a massive
herd of Elephants approached the water, with no way to tell how many had
reached the waters edge and how many were still coming down across the track, stopping
in deep sands and getting stuck again amidst a herd of Ellies at dusk, somehow
did not feel right. Neither did driving through through the herd…in retrospect,
but that is what we did. We took our
chances and pushed on and as we drove past them spread ears, raised trunks and
massive bottoms appeared everywhere but they were as surprised as we were and possibly
ensured us safe passage.
On our way
out we spotlighted a few Fiery necked and Rufous cheeked Nightjars to cap the
day, and back at camp we called in a very obliging pair of Wood Owls.
October 27th : We started the day in Mahango GR,
where the first lifer of the day was a group of Magpie Shrikes (photo right). A Black Cuckoo and its mournful call, had us entertained for a
while but could only catch fleeting views of the bird before it went silent and
disappeared. Brown Firefinches were thick on the ground wherever we traipsed.
Scanning
the floodplains got us the main quarry of the day two Slaty Egrets foraging
next to the chanel. In the floodplains we picked up Sacred Ibis a new bird for
the trip.
At Kwetche
a magnificent bloom of waterlilies harboured several Pigmy Geese. A long walk along the main channel yielded
Bradfield’s Hornbill, Bennett’s Woodpecker, Crested Barbet, Ashy Flycatcher,
Cape White Eye, Plain backed Pipit and Willow Warbler.
As we met
more and more Borassus palms the habitat became increasingly suitable for
Collared Palm Thrush, a species rarely recorded in Namibia, but which has been
sighted in Mahango in the late 80s. It was worth a try….and it only took one
brief burst…to pick up the excited trills of a nearby male. Not believing what was happening we hoaned
on the source and after another short burst a stunning male Collared Palm
Thrush popped out of the palm fronds and stared at us with its creamy white
eyes and soft reddish and cream tones. Elation and overwhelming excitement got
hold of us, since to my knowledge, this bird has never been reported on tour by
anyone else, ever, before !!!
As soon as
we got back to Kwetche we drove across the border to Shakawe, where after being
received with a few beers and settling into our rooms at Shakawe Fishing Lodge we
took a leisurely walk upstream. No
sooner had we entered the forest we bumped into a perched Western Banded Snake
Eagle which was very reluctant to leave and allowed for long and lovely views
from below. Another welcome species was Narina Trogon which came like a shot
after hooting back at it. Other species enjoyed during the walk included
Greater Swamp Warbler, Fantailed Widowbird, Grey Go-away birds attending
mineral lick and Whitefronted Bee-eater.
The moment
of truth had arrived for both Ian and John, and as dusk settled in we left camp
upstream in search of the MOST WANTED species of the trip, the epic Pel’s
Fishing Owl (photo left).
Soon after
reaching the backwaters of a nearby lagoon, Barry our host picked up the dim reflection
of the birds eye. Perched on a low branch near the forests edge, the majestic
ginger Owl stared down at us, whilst we took in the spectacle and contained a
rush of emotion. On our way back to camp we came across a female Sitatunga
feeding at the Papyrus edge. A brief
scan along the banks and flooded plains next to the lodge produced an Adult and
young White-backed Night heron. With the Shakawe nocturnal hat-trick completed
we returned to the lodge and feasted on Elaine’s scrumptious pan fried Tilapia.
October 28th : An early morning walk to the back
of Shakawe fishing lodge where the riparian forest meets dense low scrub could
not have started better, with hawking Broadbilled Rollers above our heads,
watery calls of African Green Pigeons (photo
below right), and another Narina Trogon perched next to the entrance
road. A few whistled monotonous notes
brought in a very obliging and curious Yellowfronted Tinkerbird. A brief reply to a nearby calling Redchested
Cuckoo lured it in and we all had good views as it flew in front of us. Crested
Francolins were also called in.
Likewise a couple of Orangebreasted Bushshrikes approached Christian’s whistlings,
allowing for superb views of this stunning shrike. Another two welcome
additions to the trip list were Woodland Kingfisher, which had just started
calling for the season and a darting Little Sparrowhawk.
The verges
of the road were thick with seedeaters, namely Redbilled and Brown Firefinches
the obligatory Village Indogobirds as well as Goldenbreasted Buntings and Melba
Finches.
At one bird
party that had been lingering for a while reluctant to move, we played for
African Barred Owlet with the intention to bring out any other species we might
have missed, but what came out was the Owlet itself, which allowed for long
juicy scope views.
But the
feast was not over yet, whilst watching a Jacobin Cuckoo feed in the canopy,
Christian called out for a small raptor in the same canopy, but the glimpse he
saw turned out to be the under tail barrings of a Thickbilled Cuckoo, as the
bird perched out in full view of the whole group and 
was well studied during the minutes
that followed. This record turned out
to be the fourth record ever for Botswana and the second one recorded at Shakawe.
In the
afternoon we took a cruise downstream to a spot along the Karatoga channel,
where Elaine had been monitoring an unusual heronry, unusual in as much as it
was the first she had ever seen in the area.
Large numbers of Openbill Storks, Squacco Herons, Yellowbilled and Cattle
Egret, Blackcrowned Night Herons and Little Egrets took off as we slipped past
the Papyrus section. Further downstream
we came across a flock of Black Egrets that were sharing their bounty with a
pair Slaty Egrets allowing for unequalled comparative views of this two
stunning species. Comb Ducks, Whitefaced Ducks and flocks of African Jacanas
watched us glide past.
A number of
stops along the main channel wherever we heard bird calling produced excellent
views of Luapula and Chirping Cisticola, Greater Swamp, Little Rush and Cape
Reed Warbler.
Before
calling it a day, we ventured back into the water and tested our luck a second
time with the fishing owl….we were luck again and this time had longer
prolonged and closer looks of this magnificent owl.
October 29th : The day started with a
pre-breakfast walk along the riparian forest by now we had seem mostly
everything the forest had to offer so concentrated on getting better views of
certain species, namely Black cuckoo which eventually was enjoyed perched in
the open above us. No luck finding a roosting Pel’s but Iain was most chuffed
to find one of its jammy orange primaries, in top condition. Nonetheless, we
were quite content to finish our walk with a roosting Bat Hawk. We rejoiced watching the traffic of a nearby
Carmine Bee-eater, had glimpses of a Wahlberg’s eagle soaring above the canopy
and enjoyed the traffic of Grey-go away birds coming back and forth to the lick
below Shakawe camp…a rare and fascinating behaviour poorly described among Turacos.
Soon after
breakfast we headed out for Shamvura, birding through Mahango we notched again
a few specials namely Wattled Crane, Slaty Egret, Saddlebilled Stork (photo left) and an awesome family of
Sable Antelope leaving the waters edge.
Driving back
to Shamvura we came across a fresh carcass of a male Pennantwinged Nightjar,
its female lying dead nearby. We marked the spot to return later at night.
At Shamvura
we took a leisurely walk around the property and notched a few more species
such as Spectacled Weaver, Blackcrowned Tchagra and fleeting views of a
Jameson’s Firefinch.
The night
drive was very successful, with several Fierynecked and Rufouscheeked
Nightjars, one very possible yet unconfirmed Eurasian Nightjar. We eventually
reached the dead Pennantwinged Nightjar spot, but nothing responded to our
playback, we returned via a nearby sandy track and although we were not lucky
enough to clock the male we were blessed with a female Pennantwinged Nightjar
to cap the night.
October 30th : The day started at the deck were
Charlie and Linda had laid out a scrumptious breakfast. We were briefly joined
by a flock of three Grey headed Parrots that flew over heading for Angola, a
young Black Sparrowhawk called incessantly from its nest below the deck, a
Black Cuckoo also paid its respects as did a frantic Diederick’s Cuckoo.
Soon after
greeting goodbye Marc, Charlie and Linda we stumbled upon a foraging
Levaillant’s Cuckoo before the gate.
We stopped
briefly at the Rundu Sewage Works, but not much was happening in the manner of
bird activity and being a weekend it was full of people fishing, it felt a bit
unsafe so we decided to cut the visit short, yet still managed to score Great
Crested Grebe and the first arrivals of Blue cheeked Bee-eater.
The drive
to Waterberg NP was uneventful and longish as always, but we managed to spice
it up with cracking views of a Blackfaced Babbler on the nest at Roy’s camp and
a roosting Spotted Eagle Owl near a fence gate along the Okakarara shortcut
road.
October 31st : Todays aim was merely to get back
to Windhoek in time for Johns and Ians flight back to JHB, but just as we
thought it was all over we still managed to strike one more for the list…a
Brown Snake Eagle soaring above the City of Windhoek.
The trip list
was closed at 410 species, having cleaned up on all targeted endemics and
specials and with roughly 30 more species than expected given this time of the
year and the fact that intra African-migrants and Palearctic migrants were busy
coming in, but by no means had arrived yet. Nevertheless the trip exceeded
expectations, and the main ingredients for its success resides on the fact we
had the latitude and freedom to rearrange plans at will as the trip list grew
and Iain and John rose beyond their healthy and harmless greed…this helped
enormously to streamline our chase, but the fact we all got on so extremely
well was key to making it unforgettable.
John and
Iain left on time, and with a promise to consider a joint birding trip to
Tanzania in the not so far future…a trip I am already looking forward to spend
with my newly acquired
Scottish
mates.
Species Checklist.
The
nomenclature and taxonomy followed here is according to Sinclair & Ryan’s
Bird’s of Africa – south of the Sahara. 2003.
Roberts VII Scientific
Name
1 Common Ostrich Struthio camelus
2 Great Crested Grebe Podiceps
cristatus
3 Black-necked Grebe Podiceps
nigricollis
4 Little Grebe (Dabchick) Tachybaptus
ruficollis
5 White-chinned Petrel Procellaria
aequinoctialis
6 Great White Pelican Pelecanus
rufescens
7 Cape Gannet Morus capensis
8 White-breasted Cormorant Phalacrocorax
onocrotalus
9 Cape Cormorant Phalacrocorax capensis
10 Long-tailed (Reed) Cormorant Phalacrocorax africanus
11 Crowned Cormorant Phalacrocorax coronatus
12 African Darter Anhinga rufa
13 Grey Heron Ardea cinerea
14 Black-headed Heron Ardea melanocephala
15 Goliath Heron Ardea goliath
16 Purple Heron Ardea purpurea
17 Great Egret Casmerodius
albus
18 Little Egret Egretta
garzetta
19 Yellow-billed (Intermediate) Egret Mesophoyx intermedia
20 Cattle Egret Bubulcus ibis
21 Black Heron Egretta ardesiaca
22 Slaty Egret Egretta
vinaceigula
23 Squacco Heron Ardeola ralloides
24 Green-backed Heron Butorides striatus
25 Rufous-bellied Heron Ardeola
rufiventris
26 White-backed Night-Heron Gorsachius
leuconotus
27 Black-crowned Night Heron Nycticorax nycticorax
28 Little Bittern Ixobrychus minutus
29 Hamerkop Scopus
umbretta
30 Woolly-necked Stork Ciconia
episcopus
31 African Openbill Anastomus lamelligerus
32 Marabou Stork Leptoptilos crumeniferus
33 Saddle-billed Stork senegalensis
34 Yellow-billed Stork Mycteria
ibis
35 Sacred Ibis Threskiornis
aethiopicus
36 Hadeda Ibis Bostrychia
hagedash
37 African Spoonbill Platalea alba
38 Greater Flamingo Phoenicopterus ruber
39 Lesser Flamingo Phoenicopterus minor
40 White-faced Duck Dendrocygna viduata
41 Egyptian Goose Alopochen aegyptiacus
42 South African Shelduck Tadorna cana
43 African Black Duck Anas sparsa
44 Cape Teal Anas
capensis
45 Hottentot Teal Anas hottentota
46 Red-billed Teal Anas erythrorhyncha
47 Cape Shoveller Anas smithii
48 Southern Pochard Netta erythrophthalma
49 African Pygmy Goose Nettapus
auritus
50 Knob-billed Duck Sarkidiornis melanotos
51 Spur-winged Goose Plectropterus gambensis
52 Secretarybird Sagittarius
serpentarius
53 African White-backed Vulture Gyps africanus
54 Lappet-faced Vulture Torgos
tracheliotos
55 White-headed Vulture Trigonoceps
occipitalis
56 Yellow-billed Kite Milvus parasitus
57 Black Kite Milvus migrans
58 Black-shouldered Kite Elanus
caeruleus
59 Bat Hawk Macheiramphus
alcinus
60 Verreaux's (Black) Eagle Aquila
verreauxii
61 Tawny Eagle Aquila rapax
62 Steppe Eagle Aquila nipalensis
63 Lesser Spotted Eagle Aquila
pomarina
64 Wahlberg's Eagle Aquila wahlbergi
65 Booted Eagle Hieraaetus
pennatus
66 African Hawk Eagle Hieraaetus spilogaster
67 Ayres Hawk-Eagle Aquila ayresii
68 Martial Eagle Polemaetus
bellicosus
69 Black-breasted Snake-Eagle Circaetus pectoralis
70 Western Banded Snake-Eagle Circaetus cinerascens
71 Bateleur Terathopius
ecaudatus
72 African Fish Eagle Haliaeetus vocifer
73 Common (Steppe) Buzzard Buteo buteo
74 Augur Buzzard Buteo augur
75 Lizard Buzzard Kaupifalco
monogrammicus
76 Little Sparrowhawk Accipiter minullus
77 Shikra (Little Banded Goshawk) Accipiter badius
78 African Goshawk Accipiter tachiro
79 Gabar Goshawk Micronisus gabar
80 Pale Chanting Goshawk Melierax
canorus
81 Dark Chanting Goshawk Melierax
metabates
82 Pallid Harrier Circus macrourus
83 African Marsh Harrier Circus
ranivorus
84 Montagu's Harrier Circus pygargus
85 Gymnogene (African Harrier Hawk)