Brazil: Pantanal and Amazon 19 September - 1 October 2007 Tour Leader: Scott Olmstead All photos were taken by the leader during the trip.

Itinerary: September 19:       Arrival in Cuiabá September 20:       Chapada dos Guimaraes September 21:       Chapada & Travel to the Pantanal September 22-25:  The Pantanal September 26:       Travel to Rio Cristalino in Brazilian Amazon September 27-30:  Rio Cristalino October 1:              Return to Cuiabá

Overview: 

This favorite trips unfolds entirely within the state of Mato Grosso in central-western Brazil. Approximately one/third bigger than Texas, Mato Grosso contains a fascinating variety of distinct bioregions. The central part of the state rests on a dry planalto or plateau, the westernmost extension of the Brazilian Highlands. To the north the land slopes gently down into the vast Amazon Basin, famous for its lush lowland rainforest. To the south the rivers drain into the Pantanal, a large seasonally flooded wetland, and eventually to the Paraguay River. Our tour takes in a bit of each of these suprisingly different regions. This year we found Brazil in a drought, and the result was mostly good weather for birding accompanied by smoky skies from many wildfires in the region. Despite the lack of rain the birding was quite good and we managed to see a great deal of regional specialties while putting together a total trip list of 476 species.

Daily summary:

20 Sep.  The first stop for the tour was Chapada dos Guimaraes, a dry upland region not far to the northeast of Cuiabá. Driving by the striking red rock cliffs that make the area famous, we arrived in the low, scrubby type of vegetation known locally as cerrado and began birding along the road to Agua Fria. Almost the first bird we saw as we stepped out of the van was a handsome WHITE-EARED PUFFBIRD, the first of several that we would see this morning. WHITE-RUMPED TANAGERS called excitedly nearby. A pair of BLUE-WINGED MACAWS perched close to us and allowed excellent scope views as we searched for an elusive PALE-BREASTED SPINETAIL, eventually seen well. Next up, a flock of perhaps 30 GREAT DUSKY SWIFTS blasted past us flying low as we admired some lovely PEACH-FRONTED PARAKEETS. Further down the road we found BLACK-FACED and WHITE-BANDED TANAGERS and BLACK-THROATED SALTATORS. As the morning really started to heat up, we moved to a dirt track running through taller, shady forest on the other side of the main highway. Here the main attraction was a fruiting tree pulling in nice assortment of species, with the clear highlight being a couple of handsome male FIERY-CAPPED MANAKINS. We watched a pair of PALE-BREASTED THRUSHES collecting material for their nest and a WHITE-BELLIED WARBLER showed well in viney tangles next to the track. After a leisurely lunch at a restaurant overlooking a waterfall, we drove to our hotel to check in for the night. A late afternoon walk on the hotel grounds brought us a SOOTY-FRONTED SPINETAIL, our first pair of LARGE-BILLED ANTWRENS, and a brilliant view of the smart SAFFRON-BILLED SPARROW.

21 Sep.  We started today by returning to the Agua Fria road, this time arriving a bit earlier, and in a couple hours of birding we were able to turn up many of our targets. First a COLLARED CRESCENTCHEST surprised us all by flying up onto a bare, exposed twig and singing in full view. Next the rare RUFOUS-SIDED PYGMY-TYRANT showed well and then we had great looks at RUSTY-BACKED ANTWREN and RUFOUS-WINGED ANTSHRIKE. As we watched the antshrikes foraging nearby, we listened to the rollicking calls of RED-LEGGED SERIEMAS in the distance. Then, unexpectedly, Keir actually spotted one of these long-legged birds, which are very difficult to observe on the ground in the dense scrub, perched in a tree, close enough for decent scope views. It was a new family for everyone, and the first of several uniquely South American families that we encountered on the trip. Next up we birded along a road running through some more humid woodland, and found TAWNY-CROWNED PYGMY-TYRANT and BLUE-CROWNED MOTMOT, among others. A quick stop at the Bridal Veil Falls in Chapada dos Guimaraes National Park produced a few CURL-CRESTED JAYS and an awesome study of a group of BISCUTATE SWIFTS zooming around the gorge at eye level. As midday was approaching, we headed back to Cuiabá for a huge Brazilian buffet-style lunch and then set our course south toward the Pantanal. In the fading light, as we approached our accommodation, the Pousada Piuval, we stopped for our first taste of Pantanal birding and found a few SCARLET-HOODED BLACKBIRDS coming in to their evening roost in the reeds.

22 Sep.  We started our first full morning in the Pantanal with a boat trip on the Bento Gomes River, where it spills out into a wide bay near Pousada Piuval. Before we even arrived at the boat dock, we had found CHESTNUT-BELLIED GUAN and BARE-FACED CURASSOW, and BLUE-THROATED PIPING-GUAN and CHACO CHACHALACA were quick to follow, making an impressive run of four species of cracids in one morning. Around the boat dock we saw AMERICAN PYGMY-KINGFISHER, CREAMY-BELLIED THRUSH, and the impressive SOUTHERN SCREAMER. On the bay we saw a LARGE-BILLED TERN, a few PURPLE GALLINULES, and about four LEAST BITTERNS, in addition to the hundreds of herons, egrets, storks, and spoonbills at the large rookeries set back a bit from the water. Our first pair of regal HYACINTH MACAWS was also spotted in from the boat as they flew noisily over the river. A short stop on a capao (a forested area of higher ground that becomes one of many small islands during the wet season) was very productive, and we saw BLACK-COLLARED HAWK, ORANGE-BACKED TROUPIAL, and the almost gaudy TOCO TOUCAN, arguably the most spectacular toucan of them all. Driving back to the pousada for a late breakfast, we bumped into a GREATER RHEA with 14 young chicks in tow! Late in the morning Stephen spotted a KING VULTURE soaring overhead and we picked up our first pair of CRIMSON-CRESTED WOODPECKERS and had our first brief look at HELMETED MANAKIN along the forest edge. By midday we were all ready from a little relief from the sun - daytime temperatures were around 40 C / 104 F for the first few days of the trip. It seemed the birds were seeking shade too, and we found many different species such as PURPLISH JAY, RED-CRESTED CARDINAL, and WHITE WOODPECKER in the leafy trees around the pousada. Later in the afternoon we went out for more birding, and we found some UPLAND SANDPIPERS in the open grassy fields, while UNDULATED TINAMOU and RUSSET-CROWNED CRAKE showed well at the forest edge before dusk. PAURAQUE and GREAT HORNED OWL were seen in the spotlight on the way back for dinner.

23 Sep.  Before breakfast we spent some time birding another patch of forest near the pousada, with more success. BLUE-CROWNED TROGON, BLONDE-CRESTED WOODPECKER, and PLANALTO SLATY-ANTSHRIKE were all nice finds. It was not yet mid-morning when we left Piuval and we birded our way out to the main Trans-Pantaneira Highway, picking up LONG-TAILED GROUND-DOVE, WHITE-RUMPED MONJITA, and the sleek CHOTOY SPINETAIL. Our only SWALLOW-TAILED HUMMINGBIRD was seen mobbing a FERRUGINOUS PYGMY-OWL. Along the Trans-Pantaneira we stopped at a good remaining wetland and found BLACK-BACKED WATER-TYRANT amid the many Spectacled Caimans and countless herons and storks. At the same pond Keir spotted a SOUTH AMERICAN SNIPE foraging in full view. Despite the blazing sun, the JABIRU nestlings imprisoned in their tremendous stick nests by the road seemed quite healthy. We arrived at the Pantanal Wildlife Center (Fazenda Santa Tereza) for lunch and then spent some time afternoon staying cool and watching the feeders, which were attracting hordes of RED-CAPPED CARDINALS, SAFFRON FINCHES, BAY-WINGED COWBIRDS, and CHOPI BLACKBIRDS. An afternoon boat trip on the Pixaim River brought us a few new birds, such as RUSTY-BACKED SPINETAIL, PALE-LEGGED HORNERO, and NACUNDA and BAND-TAILED NIGHTHAWKS. A few wary GIANT OTTERS were seen as well.

24 Sep.  Quite unexpectedly, we awoke to cooler temperatures and overcast skies this morning. A front had gone through during the night and we welcomed the relief from the heat. However, there was not much bird activity early and rain came by midmorning. In an abbreviated walk in the woods we did manage to pick up SOLITARY CACIQUE, STRAIGHT-BILLED WOODCREEPER, GRAY-HEADED TANAGER, COMMON THORNBIRD, and the cute little PLAIN TYRANNULET. Also as we watched a BLACK-FRONTED NUNBIRD foraging in the understory, Lyda spotted us a Southern Tamandua; this strange anteater is normally arboreal but we saw it moving from tree to tree on the ground. When it began to rain we ended the morning the session a little early and returning to the lodge. Around lunchtime we watched a WHISTLING HERON hunting in a small pool just outside, and sifted through the many hummingbirds on a beautiful flowering Taruma (Vitex sp.), with GILDED SAPPHIRE, and WHITE-TAILED GOLDENTHROAT being the juicy rewards. The afternoon was drier than the morning, and right after lunch we started with another walk in the woodland. This time we found lots of activity in the form of several mixed-species flocks. Among the favorite sightings were WHITE-WEDGED PICULET, RUFOUS CASIORNIS, BUFF-BREASTED WREN, and BAND-TAILED and MATO GROSSO ANTBIRDS. A pair of GREATER THORNBIRDS showed well at the forest edge. For the rest of the afternoon we set out in the boat again, this time heading the other direction on the river. After first going to see a staked-out nest of the bizarre GREAT POTOO, we continued on and bumped into a dazzling AGAMI HERON at the river’s edge. As the daylight expired, we spent several minutes studying this fantastic bird up close as it hunted, seemingly unconcerned by our presence. On a night excursion after dinner we had excellent views of a SPOT-TAILED NIGHTJAR in the spotlight, and then a LITTLE NIGHTJAR responded to playback by flying directly toward us and briefly settling on the road at our feet!

25 Sep.  Today we drove south along the Trans-pantaneira and birded from the road. Several elegant CAPPED HERONS finally made an appearance and we added another raptor to our list: CRANE HAWK. We had great looks at YELLOW-CHINNED and CINEREOUS-BREASTED SPINETAILS and the monotypic WHITE-NAPED XENOPSARIS, a great find. After lunch we spent some more time in the woods, and picked up a RED-BILLED SCYTHEBILL, a bird whose bill must be seen to be believed. More subtle was a pair of canopy-dwelling GREENISH ELAENIAS that treated us to rare views as they foraged at eye level in the understory. Gregarious YELLOW-CHEVRONED PARAKEETS and the more solitary SCALY-HEADED PARROT were seen around the lodge. For the end of the afternoon we went out on the boat hoping that the third time would be the charm for the diminutive and often inconspicuous SUNGREBE, which had eluded us on the previous two days. The water levels were low and in some places our path was blocked by giant water lilies. We scoured several kilometers of the winding river with no luck before we finally bumped into the bird, one of the world’s three species of Finfoots, while returning to the lodge. Success! The usual delicious Brazilian buffet-style dinner tasted even better than usual as we celebrated our prize with a few caipirinhas.

26 Sep.  We set out early for the drive back to Cuiabá, thus allowing some extra time for birding along the way – there’s always something! Before we had even made it back to the main Trans-pantaneira we stopped to observe a mixed group of RUSTY-COLLARED, WHITE-BELLIED, and DOUBLE-COLLARED SEEDEATERS. Another good find was a GOLDEN-GREEN WOODPECKER that flew in front of the bus and then perched long enough for everyone to see. By late morning we had said goodbye to the throngs of waterbirds and we boarded a plane in Cuiabá for our flight north to Alta Floresta. From the air, the smoke from ongoing fires in the region limited visibility, but we could see the vast, empty expanses of soybean fields that had once been lowland rainforest. Arriving in Alta Floresta we had a quick lunch and then set out for Cristalino. We stopped along the way to check out a moriche palm swamp and were rewarded with four birds that depend on these palms for their living: SULPHURY FLYCATCHER, RED-BELLIED MACAW, FORK-TAILED PALM-SWIFT, and the sought-after POINT-TAILED PALMCREEPER, a monotypic ovenbird. Our first BLUE-AND-YELLOW MACAWS also put on quite a show as we searched for the palmcreeper. We arrived at the banks of the Rio Teles Pires before dusk and enjoyed the 25-minute boat ride across the Teles Pires and up the Cristalino as the afternoon expired. A welcome cocktail greeted us at Cristalino Jungle Lodge, our base for the rest of the tour, and we settled into our accommodations.

27 Sep.  We started our Cristalino birding with a trip to the famous canopy tower – why wait? After scoping a GREAT JACAMAR from the ground, we began to make our way up the tower. The forest was a bit quiet but we managed to see many of our canopy targets. Arguably the best bird of the morning could be heard screaming plaintively as we ascended to the first platform (20 m). It wasn’t long before we had all gotten onto two gorgeous WHITE-BROWED HAWKS, a seldom-seen forest raptor of the Southern Amazon Basin. Another mega sighting was GOULD’S TOUCANET; we called in a pair of these beauties. A very vocal STRIOLATED PUFFBIRD went unseen for some time before Tom finally picked it out far above us in the top of an emergent tree. The view proved much better from the 50-meter top platform, though not everyone chose to go up and check it out! RED-BILLED PIED-TANAGERS and RED-NECKED ARAÇARIS were crowd-pleasers, while WHITE-BELLIED PARROTS gave us only a flyby. Once back on the ground we set out to walk on the forest trails for the rest of the morning; some of our best birds came in mixed flocks that we encountered along the way, such as WHITE-WNGED SHRIKE-TANAGER, BAR-BREASTED PICULET, YELLOW-THROATED WOODPCKER, and SATURNINE ANTSHRIKE. On the Manakin Trail Stephen spotted a superb BLUE-CHEEKED JACAMAR hunting near a light gap; the bird was very cooperative and proved a perfect photographic subject. Before lunch we spent some time at the saleiro, a natural mineral lick, where we found a few CRIMSON-BELLIED PARAKEETS and enjoyed some spectacular butterflies. In the afternoon we went upstream to look for BRONZY JACAMAR at a reliable spot known by our local boatman Jorge. It took some patience but eventually everyone got on the jacamars; more of a surprise was the SUNGREBE John spotted us on the river nearby!  

28 Sep.  First thing after breakfast we went after a WHITE-BROWED ANTBIRD singing at the forest edge not far from the bungalows, and after some time the bird finally showed well. Then it was time to hit the trails, and we spent the rest of the morning birding the Taboca Trail looking for mixed flocks and bamboo specialists. Mixed flocks produced CURVE-BILLED SCYTHEBILL, CHESTNUT-BACKED, PLAIN-WINGED, and AMAZONIAN ANTSHRIKES, GRAY-CHESTED GREENLET, and the delightful ROSE-BREASTED CHAT, among others. Two WHITE-CRESTED SPADEBILLS that never seemed to sit still proved a challenge for some, and about half the group got to see CRESTED FOLIAGE-GLEANER as it passed by on its morning rounds. A pair of YELLOW TYRANNULETS patrolled the bamboo. After lunch we moved upstream by boat and took a walk to see what is believed to be the biggest tree in the entire Cristalino private reserve, a giant Brazil Nut tree.Fortunately for us, a MUSICIAN WREN piped up nearby and allowed excellent close up scope views as he gave his haunting and melodious song. We weren’t so luck with a Black-spotted Bare-Eye, which was heard singing not too distantly but just couldn’t be coaxed into view. From the river we saw our first BLACK CARACARAS and a pair of KAWALL’S AMAZONS sitting out in plain view at dusk. Arriving back at the lodge with some time to spare before dinner, the more intrepid among us went back into the forest for a little nightbirding. Our reward was a calling OCELLATED POORWILL seen well in the spotlight.

29 Sep.  We began the morning birding by boat. As we worked hard to call in an excitable pair of DOT-BACKED ANTBIRDS, we were surprised by two RAZOR-BILLED CURASSOWS that appeared on top of the bank. Apparently unconcerned by our presence, they proceeded to walk down the bank to the water’s edge for a drink as the low-angle sun lit up their shimmering black feathers. Watching these regal birds at binoculars-optional distance was a real trip highlight. Before long we moved further upstream and disembarked at the Serra Trail for a hike. WHITE-NECKED PUFFBIRD was seen at a large tree-fall gap, along with WHITE-EYED PARAKEET, perched for the first time. The trail climbed up and soon we got a taste of a totally different habitat type as we emerged onto the Serra, a rocky outcropping covered with deciduous forest that loses its leaves during the dry season. A well-placed overlook provides a canopy tower-like vista, but it was smoky and the visibility was sub-par. We were able to pick out a few POMPADOUR COTINGAS, their white wings visible at great distance, and a PIED PUFFBIRD once of the smaller members of its family. A flyby pair of RED-AND-GREEN MACAWS completed a sweep of the large macaws. Flowers attracted WHITE-CHINNED SAPPHIRES and FORK-TAILED WOODNYMPHS while at least five PARADISE JACAMARS hunted from the treetops. A pair of TOOTH-BILLED WRENS, methodically crawling along the bare branches, was a real treat. WHITE-FRINGED ANTWREN and NATTERER’S SLATY-ANTSHRIKE, here found only at the edge of deciduous forest on the Serra, both showed well, as did the tiny SHORT-TAILED PYGMY-TYRANT. A pair of BROWN-BANDED PUFFBIRDS made for our third puffbird of the morning. After lunch at the lodge, we set out on an easy afternoon of river birding. An AMAZONIAN PYGMY-OWL that flew across the Cristalino with fresh prey and landed right by our boat made for a truly exciting moment. Further down on the Rio Teles Pires we stopped for some island birding and found AMAZONIAN TYRANNULET, LADDER-TAILED NIGHTJAR, and SPECKLED CHACHALACA among others. A totally unexpected pair of BLACK-COLLARED SWALLOWS flying overhead made perhaps just the third or fourth record for the region.  

30 Sep.  This morning started off nicely with a pair of LONG-BILLED WOODCREEPERS seen just outside the dining room after breakfast. At the river’s edge we found three GRAY-FRONTED DOVES having a drink and then called in a nice GLOSSY ANTSHRIKE, a Brazilian endemic. For most of the morning we walked the Cacau Trail with the objective of going after some of the harder forest birds, and we had great success. A couple of new woodpeckers for the trip, RINGED and the spectacular RED-NECKED, sat in the scope for us. A CHESTNUT-BELTED GNATEATER performed well by hopping out onto a fallen log, while a THRUSHLIKE ANTPITTA allowed prolonged scope views as it sang from a low perch by the trail. Kier spotted a BLACK-BELLIED CUCKOO moving through the canopy. By late morning the birding was slowing down but we found a swarm of Eciton army ants that was well-attended by antbirds. WHITE-BACKED FIRE-EYE, SCALE-BACKED ANTBIRD, WARBLING ANTBIRD, and BLACK-FACED ANTBIRD were all present but the real prize was several individual BARE-EYED ANTBIRDS, one of the fancy Amazonian antbirds of the genus Rhegmatorina, and one of the most sought-after birds at Cristalino. This Brazilian endemic is found only in a small area between the lower Tapajos and Xingu Rivers. After lunch, our birding got off to a bang when our boatman Jorge found a ZIGZAG HERON as he was preparing the boat for our afternoon outing. Upstream we walked the Haffer Trail and found MANU and STRIATED ANTBIRDS in the bamboo.

1 Oct.  We spent our final morning of the trip in Cristalino’s canopy tower, where we found an excellent mixed flock. SLENDER-BILLED XENOPS, LINEATED WOODCREEPER, and SLENDER-FOOTED TYRANNULET were good sightings but the real headliner was the superb BLACK-GIRDLED BARBET, a South-Central Amazon specialty. Back on the forest floor, we found RED-HEADED MANAKIN over our heads and the strange BANDED ANTBIRD walking through the leaf litter. After packing up we boarded the boat and said goodbye to Cristalino but the birding wasn’t over yet – a beautiful PIED LAPWING seen on an island on the Teles Pires was a nice end to our time in the Amazon. Upon returning to Alta Floresta we had lunch in town and then flew back to Cuiabá for the end of the tour.

BIRD LIST
This list includes all the bird species that were recorded by at least one of us. Taxonomy and nomenclature follow: Clements, James F. 2000. Birds of the World: A Checklist. Fifth Edition. Vista, CA: Ibis Publishing Co., including updates.

Totals: 
438 seen (including 6 seen only by the tour leader)
38 heard only

Abbreviations:
H=Heard only
(I)=Introduced species
(nt)=Considered near-threatened by BirdLife International
(VU)=Considered vulnerable by BirdLife International
(EN)=Considered endangered by BirdLife International

Site codes:
Pa = Pantanal, including the road to Poconé
Ch = Chapada dos Guimaraes
Am = Amazon (Cristalino Jungle Lodge and Alta Floresta)