PERU: MANU & MACHU PICCHU July 26 - August 12 2007 Tour leader - José Illánes Itinerary July 26       Arrival in Lima July 27       Flight to Cusco & Huacarpay Lake July 28       Upper Manu Road July 29       San Pedro & Cock-of-the-Rock Lodge July 30       San Pedro & Upper Manu Road July 31       San Pedro & Lower Manu Road August 1    Amazonia Lodge August 2    Amazonia Lodge August 3   Amazonia Lodge & travel to Manu Wildlife Center August 4    Manu Wildlife Center August 5    Manu Wildlife Center August 6    Manu Wildlife Center August 7    Manu Wildlife Center August 8    Boca Manu & flight to Cusco August 9    Urubamba (Ollataytambo) & Abra Malaga August 10  Ollataytambo & Machu Picchu August 11  Aguas Calientes & Cusco August 12  Cusco & return to Lima (Pucusana)

Daily Summary

July 27   We all started the tour very excited this morning, looking forward to the amazing number of birds we would see in the next couple weeks - Peru has one of the highest bird lists of any country. Our tour would sample the megadiversity of Manu National Park and also take in a few other sites including the famous Inca ruins at Machu Picchu. Our flight was late to Cusco but we saw beautiful landscapes on the way, which was great compensation. After our arrival in Cusco, we met the driver, loaded the van, and went up to Huacarpay Lake. We saw some our target species such as White-tufted Grebe, Puna Ibis, Puna and Cinnamon Teal, Cinereous Harrier, Black-chested Buzzard-Eagle, Black-tailed Traibearer, Bearded Moutaineer, Wren-like Rushbird, Rusty-fronted Canastero, White-browed Chat-Tyrant, Mourning Sierra-Finch, and Yellow-winged Blackbird. It was a very good day.

July 28   After getting acclimatized, today we went birding up and down the famous Manu road, starting in the dry high Andes. Here we didn’t see just birds, but also we got a chance to see nice mountain scenery and some of the people that live in this area. Birds included Golden-billed Saltator, Chestnut-breasted Mountain-Finch, Peruvian Sierra-Finch, Streak-fronted Thornbird, Black-throated Flowerpiercer, Green-tailed Trainbearer, Yellow-billed and Tufted Tit-Tyrants and maybe the most-wanted bird: Creamy-crested Spinetail. Going down the road, the habitat gradually got greener as we arrived at temperate cloud forest. The species that occur in this area are very different and we got Rust-and-yellow Tanager, White-winged Black-Tyrant, Golden-collared Tanager, Chestnut-bellied and Hooded Mountain-Tanagers, Rufous-capped Thornbill, Violet-throated Starfrontlet, Andean Guan, Rufous-breasted and Brown-backed Chat-Tyrant, Ochraceous-breasted Flycatcher, Streaked-throated Bush-Tyrant, and Red-crested Cotinga. We arrived later in the afternoon at the Cock-of-the-Rock Lodge.

July 29   This mourning before our breakfast we went to the Andean Cock-of-the-Rock lek, the most famous in all of Peru, which is located five minutes walking from the lodge. After enjoying watching the spectacular displaying males, we went for birding by the road, where we saw such beautiful birds as Yellow-throated, Orange-eared, Black-goggled, Yellow-bellied, Spotted, Flame-faced and Paradise Tanagers, and Inca Jay. After breakfast we went out on one of the trails, and found a few small feeding flocks. We got Golden and Beryl-spangled Tanagers, Bronze-green Euphonia, Montane Foliage-gleaner, Montane and Olive-backed Woodcreepers, Yungas Manakin, Ash-browed Spinetail, Dark-faced Brush-Finch, Bolivian and Cinnamon-faced Tyrannulets, Ornate, Yellow-breasted and Stripe-chested Antwrens, and the beautiful male and female Versicolored Barbets showed nicely for us. Without doubt it was a very productive walk. Later in the afternoon we went down the road from the lodge, and after just a few minutes driving we found Highland and Rufous Motmots, Crested Quetzal, Gray-mantled Wren, Dusky-green Oropendola, Chestnut-backed Antshrike, and Yellow-browed Flycatcher.

July 30   With pack breakfast and lunch we went up the Manu road from the lodge very early, our plan being to find some nightjars on the way. Actually we were lucky to see at least 3 different male Lyre-tailed Nightjars, and them we drove further up the road. After our field breakfast we found a nearby feeding flock with Capped Conebill, Black-capped Hemispingus, Barred Becard, Inca Flycatcher, and White-banded Tyrannulet. We also got the chance to see Masked Trogon, Long-tailed Sylph, Gould's Inca, Pale-legged Warbler, Andean Parakeet, Blue-banded Toucanet, Yungas Pygmy-Owl, Golden-headed Quetzal, and Buff-thighed Puffleg. Of course we saw other common species on our journey as well, and also we saved a little time for the lower valley were we saw White-eared Solitaire and Small-billed Elaenia. Birding wasn’t that bad for today we got very good species.

July 31   Our plan today was birding down the road from Cock-of-the-Rock Lodge until we got to Amazonia Lodge. So most of the birds that we saw today were diferent from the upper area, and some of them were endemics. We saw Ash-browed Spinetail, Blue-winged Moutain-Tanager, Warbling and Foothill Antwrens, and Two-banded and Golden-bellied Warblers. Bamboo Antshike and Black-backed Tody-Flytcacher were found in bamboo forest, and seeing the Amazonian Umbrellabird male in full display was wonderful. We also saw Torrent Duck, Black-faced Dacnis, Blue-crowned Trogon, Southern Nightingale-Wren, Plain-crowned Spinetail, Red-billed Scythebill, and Bluish-fronted Jacamar before arriving at the Madre de Dios River where we had a view of a bunch of Chestnut-fronted Macaws and White-eyed Parakeets. A couple Plain Softtails were very responsive to playback and we saw a roosting Common Potoo that our driver knew about. Crossing the river we got to see a staked-out Tawny Owl, which was a nice bonus.

August 1   This was our first morning birding in the low foothill forest, which has a lot in common with the lowlands and here we started finding more of my favorite species: antbirds, antwrens, and antshrikes. After our late breakfast, the first thing that we did was enjoy the birds by the farm, where they have some nice flowers and feeders attracting hummingbirds like Rufous-crested Coquette, Violet-headed Hummingbird, White-necked Jacobin, Blue-tailed Emerald, Fork-tailed Woodnymph, Golden-tailed Sapphire. The fruit table had birds such as Red-capped Cardinal, Speckled Chachalaca, and some tanagers. Later on we went for walk on one the trails, and the wide trail and open habitat make the birding easy for most people. Seeing Blue-headed Macaws flying over was a real highlight and we also saw Scarlet and Red-and-green Macaws, Amazonian, Russet-backed, and Crested Oropendolas, Lafresnaye’s, Lineated, and Cinnamon-throated Woodcreepers, Chestnut-eared Araçari, and Black-tailed Trogon. Two Chestnut-capped Puffbird males fighting each other over a single female were quite a sight. Other birds seen today included Pectoral Sparrow, Black-throated Toucanet, Pygmy Antwren, Johannes’s, Tody-Tyrant, Rusty-belted Tapaculo, Band-tailed and Fairy-capped Manakins, Spix’s and Blue-throated Guans, Chestnut-crested Foliage-gleaner, White-browed, Southern Chestnut-tailed, Goeldi’s, and Black-throated Antbirds, Little Cuckoo, and Gould’s Jewelfront. The prehistoric Hoatzins near the river and little lake were amazing. I would consider this a great day.  

August 2   With another full day at Amazonia Lodge, and having already birded some of the lower areas, today we went to the upper valley hoping some new birds. We got some good ones: Olive Tanager, White-lined Antbird, and Koepcke’s Hermit. Going gradually up the hill weg ot chance to see Spot-backed, Gray, and Black-faced Antbirds, Black-spotted Bare-eye, Bluish-slate and Dusky-throated Antshrikes, Gray Antrwen, and Green-and-gold, Turqouise, and Yellow-crested Tanagers. On the way back we also got Black-capped Donacobius. After half a morning walking we went back to the lodge, and scanned for raptors from the patio. We were lucky to see Black-and-white Hawk-Eagle and King Vulture. Later in the afternoon after our delicious lunch we went for short walk and we found the Great Jacamar, a new record for the area according the owners, plus Rufous-capped Nunlet, Reddish Hermit and Crested Foliage-gleaner.      

August 3   It was our last morning birding in this area, and in a couple hours of quick birding we got Tiny Hawk, Slaty- backed Forest-Falcon, Purplish Jay, and Short-tailed, White-collared and Lesser Swallow-tailed Swifts. Then it was time for our boat trip down to Manu Wildlife Center. As we were going downriver we watched the vegetation changing and took in some new birds like Fasciated Tiger-Heron, Wood Stork, Little Blue Heron, Pied Plover, Greater Yellow-headed Vulture, Osprey, Bat Falcon, Plumbeous Kite, Swallow-wing Puffbird, Large-billed and Yellow-billed Terns, Ringed, Amazon and Green Kingfisher, and Great Black-Hawk.  It was an exciting trip, and our hard-working boatmen seemed to be enjoying it just as much as we were. One of the best moments for me was the wonderful view of the Horned Screamer by the sand bar.

August 4   To think that we were right in the middle of the Amazonian rainforest was very new and interesting for the group, but for me the forest around Manu Wildlife Center is just like my home in Ecuador! First off we went to visit the most famous parrot lick in the world, holding colorful species like Red-and-green Macaw, Mealy, Yellow-crowned, Blue-headed, and Orange-cheeked Parrots. These birds come every single morning to eat clay that helps their digestive systems deal with the poisons contained in the seeds they eat. Also nearby we got to see two beautiful Sunbitterns, Little Ground-Tyrant, River Tyrannulet, Spotted Toddy-Flycatcher, and Black-billed Seed-Finch. Walking back to the boat we saw Undulated Tinamou and Little Woodpecker, and just cross the river in a bamboo patch we got Rufous-headed Woodpecker, Rufous-capped Nunlet and Rufous-breasted Piculet. Going back for lunch we also found the Muscovy Duck and Orinoco Goose by the riverside. Walking after our lunch on one of the trails was productive as we got White-winged Shrike-Tanager, Screaming Piha, Cream-colored Woodpecker, Collared Puffbird, Chestnut-winged Hookbill, White-fronted Nunbird, Long-tailed Woodcreeper, and Rufous-capped Anthrush that showed nicely for us.

August 5   With an early breakfast we went over to Cocha Camungo, located half an hour from the lodge, where they have a wooden tower. We got some canopy species like Epaulet Oriole, Casqued Oropendola, Black-tailed Tityra, Orange-fronted Plushcrown, Crowned Slaty-Flycatcher, White-lored and White-vented Euphonias, Ivory-billed Araçari, Yellow-browed Tody-Flycatcher, and also it was great to see the young Ornate Hawk-Eagle that came to the Ceiba tree where we were. It was begging for food from its parents. After the tower we went to the lake and there were some good birds like Purus Jacamar, Masked Yellowthroat, the beautiful Amzonian Antwren that lives close to the water, plus a single Roseate Spoonbill feeding by the shore. After lunch, we decided to go to one of the trails with a lot of bamboo, where we saw our targets Manu Antbird and Peruvian Recurvebill and also we got the Blue-crowned Motmot. That wasn’t all; seeing Crested Owl in the daytime was pretty amazing.

August 6   Today we had a bit of a lazy morning, birding from one of the towers near the lodge. It was a productive visit, with Sclater’s and Chestnut-shouldered Antwrens, Striolated Puffbird, Eastern Sirystes, Black-bellied Cuckoo, White-throated and Channel-billed Toucans, Curl-crested Araçari, and Purple-throated and Bare-necked Fruitcrows. After our canopy birding we went to walk along the little creek and got a beautiful view of the Semicollared Puffbird, along with White-throated Antbird, Variegated Tinamou, and Round-tailed and Blue-backed Manakins. Not bad for the morning! After lunch we found a little feeding flock with some lifers for the trip, like Lemon-throated Barbet, Russet Antshrike, and Slender-billed Xenops. We also saw Amazonian Pygmy-Owl by the lodge. Later in the afternoon we went down the river by boat. After forty minutes we arrived at Cocha Blanca, where our target species wasn’t a bird, it was the Giant Otter, which lives just in this kind of the freshwater lake. Of course there were birds too: Green Ibis, Ladder-tailed Nightjar, Silvered Antbird, Pale-vented Pigeon and the hard-to-see Gray-breasted Crake.  

August 7   For today our plan was to walk in the grid trail by the lodge, and we got some special birds like Stipple-throated, Gray and White-flanked Antwrens, Red-crowned Ant-Tanager, Grayish and Cinereous Mourners, Amazonian Royal-Flycatcher, White-crested Spadebill, White-eyed Tody-Tyrant, Dwarf Tyrant-Manakin, Plumbeous Antbird, and on the way back we got a Pavonine Quetzal that responded very well to whistling. Later in the afternoon we went back to the bamboo forest to try for more bamboo specialties and we managed to see Cabanis’s Spinetail, Dot-winged Antwren, Large-headed Flatbill, and Thrush-like Wren. At five o'clock we went back to the trails looking for some birds that we were missing, and we were lucky to see a couple of Razor-billed Curassows, Rusty-belted Tapaculo, and just at dusk we saw Starred Wood-Quail usually very tough to see.

August 8   Our time today was mostly spent traveling, first from Manu Wildlife Center to Boca Manu, and then flying to Cuzco, of course seeing some common birds on the way. Later on we drove from Cusco to Urubamba and spent the night at Ollataytambo, which is one of the indigenous towns in the area. We saw lots of tourists and a Giant Hummingbird that was coming to the one of the flowers; it was great to see this species close up! 

August 9   We got an early start this morning, with our destination being Abra Malaga, located an hour-and-a-half from Ollataytambo. As we arrived it was such clear day that we got a wonderful view from the pass. After the pass we drove a few kilometers more and found a nice patch of forest by the road side and also we saw some of our target species: Three-striped Hemispingus, Inca Wren, Scaled Metaltail, White-browed Conebill, Marcapata Spinetail, Pink-throated Starfrontlet, Black-throated Flowerpiercer, and Rufous-breasted Chat-tyrant. By the pass we also got Rufous-capped Ground-Tyrant, White-winged and Bar-winged Ciclodes, Andean Lapwing, Moutain Cararaca, Bright-rumped Yellow-Finch, and Golden-billed Saltator. We saw three Andean Condors soaring above the moutain and picked up White-tufted Sunbean on the way down.

August 10   Today we started a little later with some birding by the hotel: Green-tailed Trainbearer, White-bellied Hummingbird, Black-backed Grosbeak, and Band-tailed Seedeater were among the birds we saw. Our destination today was the town of Aguas Calientes, which is located just below Machu Picchu, the most famous of the Inca ruins. To get to there we went on the train and as soon when we arrived we took a bus get to the ruins, all of us very to excited. Our local guide talked to us about the Inca civilization and despite seeing hundreds of other people (it wasn't just us visiting the ruins today!) it was a great experience. After a delicious lunch we went back down to the town, and did a little birding by the railway. It was quite productive and we got White-capped Dipper, Torrent Tyrannulet, Golden-crowned Flycatcher, Green-and-white Hummingbird, and Speckle-faced Parrot. To finish the day we had a wonderful dinner at the Indio Feliz Restaurant.

August 11   We thought it might rain today, and it did, so we waited a couple hours while the rain came down. When it lightened up we went out the other side of the town, again birding along the railway. Just a hundred meters or so walking from town we found a nice feeding flock with Ocellated Piculet, the endemic Masked Fruiteater, lots of tanagers including Blue-necked, Safron-crowned, Silver-backed, Golden-naped and Slaty, Pale-legged Warbler, Sclater’s and Mottle-cheeked Tyrannulets, Blue-naped Chlorophonia, Variable Antshrike, Booted Racket-tail, Gould’s Inca, Olivaceous Siskin, White-tipped Swift, Dull-colored Grassquit, and Mitred Parakeet. Our morning was very productive even with the rain. After lunch we went back to Cusco on the three o'clock train. Our stay at Aguas Calientes was great, it was a memorable experience.

August 12   Today was our last day of the trip, but we weren't done birding yet. We got an early flight to Lima, where we stopped in at Miraflores and picked up Peruvian Booby, and Band-tailed, Kelp and Gray Gulls. Next we headed for Pucusana, about an hour-and-a-half away, for shorebirding. Of course we made some stops along the way, and at a gas station we managed to find a Coastal Miner hopping around in the arid habitat. When we arrived in Pucusana we went out in a boat and saw Guanay and Red- legged Cormorants, Peruvian Pelican, Ruddy Turnstone, Blackish Oystercatcher, a bunch of Inca Terns. Later we went looking for Humboldt Penguins and fortunately we saw a couple by the cliffs and a few more fishing in the Pacific. On the way back to the port we saw Peruvian Seaside Cinclodes, a great find. Returning to Lima we again stopped in couple places and we picked up Amazilia Hummingbird, Long-tailed Mockingbird, Lesser Nighthawk, at least twenty Peruvian Thick-knees, Burrowing Owl, and Short-tailed Field-Tyrant; one of the lakes held Cinnamon Teal and White-cheeked Pintail. And that was the end of the day and also of the trip! I would say it was a real success and we all had a great time. 

Bird List

The taxonomy and nomenclature of this list follow (including yearly updates): Clements, James F. 2000. Birds of the World: A Checklist. Fifth Edition. Vista, CA: Ibis Publishing Co. Alternate English names are given in parentheses.