Introduction

In July 2007 we made our first exploratory trip to the Pousada Rio Azul, a fishing lodge located in southern Amazonian Brazil near the Pará/Mato Grosso border. The access point is Alta Floresta, already well known as the gateway to the south-central Amazon Basin and a stepping stone to the famous Cristalino Jungle Lodge. By traveling farther north from Alta Floresta into the state of Pará we were hoping to track down some scarce and elusive species not found with any regularity in the Cristalino area, most notably the recently described Bald Parrot (Gypopsitta auranticephala). This species, quite unique among parrots with its bright orange featherless head, was originally passed off as a transitional plumage stage of immature Vulturine Parrots. However, more careful analysis of specimens and field observations led in 2002 to the clear conclusions that immature Vulturine Parrots never seem to show orange heads and that these two types of parrots are never actually found together! (Vulturine Parrots are found mostly to the east and north of the range of Bald Parrot.) The result is another spectacular and bizarre Brazilian endemic species, restricted to middle Tapajos, Madeira, and Xingu drainages. The Pousada Rio Azul seems to be among the most reliable places to track down this newly described species.

Daily Summary

Day 1: In the morning we met Carlos and Ivaní, owners of the Pousada Rio Azul, in Alta Floresta for the four-hour drive to the Rio Azul, leaving time for birding along the way. The route passes mostly through open cattle pasture and degraded forest, but is not devoid of birdlife and can actually produce an impressive variety of raptors. Shortly after leaving Alta Floresta we had a nice low flyby of a King Vulture and then after crossing the ferry over the Teles Pires River we encountered Gray, Short-tailed, and White Hawks, and Pearl and White-tailed Kites. Mixed flocks along the edge of remnant forest patches held Short-billed Honeycreeper and White-lored Tyrannulet, while Pale-rumped, Gray-rumped, and Short-tailed Swifts fluttered overhead. It was mid-afternoon when we arrived at the lodge gate, from where we decided to walk the entrance track (1 km) to the lodge itself. The habitat is interesting scrubby cerrado type woodland on white sandy soil. A small group of Bare-eyed Antbirds flying across the track caught us off guard but was not nearly as unexpected as the pair of wood-quail we found foraging in the understory nearby. These wood-quail, sporting tall chestnut crests and gray necks, looked more like Starred Wood-Quail than the local rufogularis race of Marbled Wood-Quail. However, the barely-acceptable video I shot through binoculars has so far not been enough to confirm this out-of-range record. Around the lodge clearing we saw Warbling Antbird, Epaulet Oriole, and a flyby group of Painted Parakeets. The dusk serenade of five species of tinamous was a peaceful end to the day. Carlos and Ivaní, our caring hosts, made us feel right at home in our cabin, one of three (each equipped with private bath and a fan). We enjoyed the first of many excellent meals, usually typical Brazilian bean, rice, and vegetable dishes accompanied by freshly-caught fish.

Day 2: We set out just before dawn to walk to Woodcreeper Trail through tall, mostly intact terra firme forest. Practically the first bird of the morning was a Red-billed Woodcreeper singing in the pre-dawn twilight. From our position inside the forest, we had little hope to see the bird and left it for another day. Along this trail we found Ringed Antpipit, Rufous-tailed Flatbill, and a pair of Dot-backed Antbirds. A mixed understory flock had White-flanked and White-eyed Antwrens. Near the end of the trail we had excellent looks at Yellow-breasted Flycatcher; the local race is almost all yellow and is probably a different species from “Yellow-breasted Flycatchers” found in the western Amazon. Our first manakin of the morning was the charismatic Red-headed Manakin, displaying in the subcanopy, and was followed by the somewhat more elusive White-crowned Manakin, seen perched in the understory. Upon emerging from the forest at the end of the trail, we walked back to the lodge along the entrance track again, this time finding some different birds. Here we saw one of the morning’s best birds was Black Manakin, a widespread but localized Amazonian species that seems to be restricted to areas with sandy, nutrient-poor soil. Brad had hypothesized that this species would be present at the Rio Azul and we were quite glad to have found it. White-naped Xenopsaris was seen nearby and we found White-browed Purpletuft and Swallow-winged Puffbird perched up at the forest edge, enjoying the sunny morning. By late morning we were back to the lodge, where we made another exciting find: a “new” species of hummingbird. There is a Phaethornis hermit that has been recorded regularly in the Alta Floresta region for some time now, but the bird does not exactly match any known species. We watched this hermit, which will soon be described as a new species, Tapajos Hermit, foraging right in the middle of the lodge clearing, its distinctive broad white-tipped tail feathers flickering as it hovered. Finding ourselves with a bit of time before lunch we walked down to the boat landing on the river, where we found a pair of Blue-cheeked Jacamars hunting at the edge of a light gap. An absolutely superb Rose-breasted Chat gave amazing views and we could just barely pick out a Pavonine Quetzal calling in the distance, though it was hard to hear over the wild shrieking of a pack of Giant Otters on the river.

In the late afternoon we went for a stroll on the Gnatcatcher Trail, which was formerly a road used to portage boats around a rapid on the river but is now overgrown and only used as a footpath. One of the highlights of our walk was a great view of the scarce Guianan Gnatcatcher foraging with a mixed flock. We also got Black-capped Becard and Snow-capped Manakin. A skulking Rufous-capped Antthrush eventually gave up good views while Chestnut-belted Gnateater and Brown-banded Puffbird remained heard-only. Arriving back at the lodge clearing for dinner, we found a Black-banded Woodcreeper singing from an open perch. After another delicious dinner of fresh fish we retired to write up field notes from our very satisfying first full day at the Rio Azul.

Day 3: Dawn found us hot on the trail of the Red-billed Woodcreeper again. This time we held our position in the clearing and were able to call the bird into view. It perched in a high open treetop and we enjoyed welcome scope views of this rarity. With the woodcreeper on the list, we turned our attention to the resident Yellow-browed Antbird which sang from the forest edge behind the lodge each morning. Before long we had excellent views of this very unusual-looking antbird too. The plan for the day was a boat trip downstream on the Rio Azul, so without further ado we set out for the river. It wasn’t long before a small party of about eight Bald Parrots flew over the river at canopy level, their crimson wing linings flashing with each wingbeat. Much to our disbelief they settled into the top of a fruiting tree right beside our boat! Light conditions were perfect so we decided to bring the boat ashore at an opening in the vegetation on the opposite bank in order to try for some photos. The grotesquely intriguing Psittacids sat only long enough for some not-quite-crystal-clear record shots, but the views had been good and we were quite content with this encounter.

Farther downstream we found an unfamiliar hummingbird perched over the water; when we stopped for a closer look it became clear that it was a female Crimson Topaz. Pausing for a bit turned out to be a good idea, and after just a few minutes’ wait we were watching two handsome males chasing each other, nectaring on nearby flowers, and gnatcatching low over the water’s surface. This discovery represented a significant range extension for the species, known mostly from the lower Amazon Basin, and it is worth noting that Brad has been able to refind the birds reliably on subsequent visits. As we continued downstream we spotted a Brown-banded Puffbird perched up at the river’s edge, and Kawall’s Amazons and Curl-crested and Red-necked Araçaris were seen crossing the watercourse in flight. The water level was down because of Brazil’s ongoing drought, and we had to get out and walk the boat through a couple sets of shallow, light rapids. Spotted Tody-Flycatcher was found at one of these pseudo-portages, and a group of lazy Hoatzins was the reward below.

By midday we stopped at a neighboring fazenda (ranch) where a wide track ended at the riverbank. This track, part of a network of old logging roads on the property, was once used to selectively log the forest but now lies abandoned, providing access to the extensive stands of Guadua bamboo that dominate the area. Quite a few of the typical bamboo specialties were present, with Large-headed Flatbills being particularly common while just one each of Striated and Manu Antbirds were detected. A responsive pair of smart-looking Chestnut-backed Antshrikes showed well beside the track and overhead we found Blue-crowned Trogon, Paradise Jacamar, and Long-tailed Tyrant. Activity wasn’t great in the afternoon heat and we vowed to return to bird this area properly in the morning.

Day 4: Carlos and Ivaní have arranged birding access to both of the fazendas that border their own property, and this morning we drove to the second property. The habitat is mostly degraded forest that has been selectively logged. Although this means that most of the understory species like antbirds and foliage-gleaners are no longer present, there is still good bird activity in this patchy forest mosaic. We found thirteen species of parrots without much difficulty, and many of them offered good photographic opportunities as they perched at the sunlit forest edge. The highlights were definitely the striking and sought-after Red-fan and White-bellied Parrots. Raptors were not on short supply either, and we found White-browed and Bicolored Hawks among the more common species like Double-toothed Kite. Other new birds for the trip included Red-throated Piping-Guan, Olive Oropendola, and the magnificent Red-necked Woodpecker. A fruiting tree attracted Paradise, Turquoise, and Yellow-backed Tanagers, White-necked Thrush, and Spangled Cotinga, among others. A Russet-crowned Crake  foraging in the scrubby vegetation at the edge of the forest made for a very welcome surprise. We had an unusual mammal sighting as well when a grizzled, dark Canid crossed the road in front of the truck; while this animal sure looked a lot like the elusive Short-eared Dog, we would like a better view to confirm the record.

We returned to the lodge for lunch and then headed out on the river again for the afternoon. This time we entered a small lagoon that opens up on the left bank above the first rapids. Here we found Green-and-rufous Kingfisher and a very skulky Varzea Schiffornis. The taxonomic placement of this cryptic relative of the manakins is currently uncertain.

Day 5: Today we returned to the Fazenda Santa Emilia, the site where we had been exploring the bamboo patches two days earlier. This time we drove to the site, watching along the way for Hyacinth Macaws flying across the open terrain. These giant macaws have a small local population here, although we did not see them during our visit. Driving across the ranch we did find Red-bellied and Chestnut-fronted Macaws and a pair of Razor-billed Curassows. In the forest activity was good and right away we found Collared Puffbird, Pará Foliage-gleaner, and White-browed Antbird. The bamboo specialist Manu Antbird turned out to be rather common here, and at one point we had the interesting experience of hearing congeners Manu, Gray, and Blackish Antbirds all calling from the same area at the same time. Other bamboo birds that were new to the list this morning were Dusky-cheeked Foliage-gleaner and the local “Emilia’s” race of Dot-winged Antwren. A couple of Dusky Tit-Monkeys, foliovorous monkeys that often feed on the leaves of the bamboo, even put in an appearance. A massive canopy flock gave us many new species, among them a pair of industrious Tooth-billed Wrens, a Slender-billed Xenops, a couple of dainty Sclater’s Antwrens, and Opal-rumped and Flame-crested Tanagers. After a final lunch, it was time for me to head back to Alta Floresta and then on to Cuiabá to meet a tour. Brad stayed on and continued to survey for a few more days, turning up more interesting species each day; by the end he had added Black-girdled Barbet, Rufous-necked Puffbird, Flame-crowned Manakin, Pale-bellied Mourner, Fulvous-crested Tanager, Chestnut-throated Spinetail, White-chinned Woodcreeper, and Natterer’s Slaty-Antshrike.

Wrap-up

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