South Africa - "Cape, Zululand and Drakensberg" - Endemics Clean-up
Detailed Trip Report
27 October – 16 November 2002
Participants: BK & Peary Stafford, Donny & Jackie Dann
Leader: Keith Barnes
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Introduction
South Africa is classified a mega-diversity country by Conservation International. In the southwest it contains two habitats found nowhere else in the world, the heath-like fynbos and the semi-desert Karoo. Both these systems hold a host of endemic birds. For the Staffords and Danns, seeing as many endemics as possible was the prime objective of this tour. Tropical Birding designed this trip to maximise the endemic possibilities. According to the Red Data Book of Birds of South Africa, Lesotho and Swaziland there are 64 species that are endemic or near-endemic (90% of their breeding range confined) to the region. On our 21-day trip we saw all of these. Furthermore, we saw the reminder of additional endemics proposed by the 3rd edition of the SASOL Fieldguide, namely Barrow’s (White-bellied) Korhaan, Cape Parrot, Agulhas Clapper Lark, Eastern Long-billed Lark, Karoo Thrush and Damara Canary. The only potential miss was the scare and enigmatic Hottentot Buttonquail, and its status as a good species still requires some more convincing evidence. Thus, according to the SASOL Fieldguide we saw an incredible 70 of the region’s 71 endemics. We also saw the endemic capensis subspecies of the Cape Eagle Owl, a potential split from the northern Mackinder’s Eagle Owl. No commercial tour has ever managed such an incredible haul of endemic taxa in South Africa.
Amongst the 439 species seen on this tour, apart from the 70 endemics and another 72 near-endemics, were enigmatic, secretive, interesting or rare species such as the locally critically threatened Wattled Crane and Blue Swallow, Verreaux’s Eagle, Crowned Eagle, Secretarybird, Cuckoo Hawk, Red-winged Francolin, Crested Guineafowl, Black-rumped Buttonquail, Red-chested Flufftail, African Rail, African Finfoot, Chestnut-banded Plover, Damara Tern, Rosy-faced Lovebird (extremely localised in South Africa), Bradfield’s Swift, Narina Trogon, Lesser Jacana, Half-collared Kingfisher, Barlow’s Lark, Black-eared Finchlark, Sclater’s Lark, Orange River White-eye, Yellow-spotted Nicator, Short-toed Rock Thrush, Orange Ground Thrush, White-starred Robin, as well as a complete haul of the Zululand specials Pink-throated Twinspot, Neergaard’s Sunbird, Rudd’s Apalis, Woodward’s Batis, Grey Waxbill and Brown Scrub Robin. However, the undoubted highlight amongst this star cast of quality birds was unbelievable views of a male Striped Flufftail all of two metres in front of us on a rock, completely unobscured!
To add to the magical birdlist we scored an amazing 53 species of mammals, and that was without going to Kruger for the traditional Big-5 listing. This was the same number of mammal species the Stafford’s had seen on their big-game safari to Kenya. I still maintain that birders see more mammals than mammal watchers.
26 Oct: The Stafford’s arrived in Cape Town just at sunset, we travelled through to Blouberg for views of Table Mountain, a good seafood dinner and an early night. I travelled back to the airport to pick up the Dann’s from a late night flight. They had spent 4 days around Johannesburg with Tropical Birding’s Richard White.
27 Oct: West Coast: After a 05h00 wake-up we started our drive from Cape Town up the West Coast. Our first stop was at the Rietvlei wetlands around Milnerton where we picked up our first near-endemics and endemics including Cape Bulbul, Grey-backed Cisticola, Cape Francolin, Cape Shoveller, South African Shelduck as well as Great Crested Grebe, White-winged Tern, Purple Heron, White Pelican and a host of other waterbirds.
Further up the coast we stopped off at the Darling fields where we picked up several exciting endemics including our first Pied Starling, Bokmakierie, Cape Sparrow, Cape Weaver, Lesser Double-collared Sunbird, Southern Black Korhaan and Cape Clapper Lark as well as Malachite Sunbird, Red-capped and Thick-billed Lark. A Pearl-breasted Swallow was also seen skimming over the strandveld. Our drive to the West Coast N.P. was fairly uneventful. Once in the park however, the birding was excellent in the late morning and we scored both African Marsh and the endemic Black Harrier, an exceptionally beautiful raptor. A few Jackal Buzzards were also seen on telephone poles on the way up the R27 highway. A Cardinal Woodpecker, a localised species in the Western Cape was gripped in the Eucalyptus trees near the Geelbek hide. In the scrub on our way out to Langebaan we picked up Grassbird and Southern Grey Tit. In the town of Langebaan itself we added Karoo Robin, White-throated and Yellow Canary and White-backed Mousebird before enjoying a fabulous West Coast seafood lunch.
We decided to clinch the seabirds by heading to Saldahna Bay for the afternoon. On our way we saw a family of Blue Cranes with a chick. When stopped to scan a pan we picked up a calling Karoo Lark (of the patae subspecies), a welcome surprise. Another welcome endemic was a Sickle-winged Chat just outside Saldahna. The mid-afternoon stop at Marcus Island was very productive for the Benguela-endemic seabirds with Hartlaub’s Gull, Cape Gull, African Black Oystercatcher, Cape Gannet, Bank, Crowned and Cape Cormorants and African Penguin all being gripped.
We headed back towards Veldrif where we stopped at the Cerebos Saltworks which was very good for waders, including our main target, Chestnut-banded Sand Plover, but we also scored Greater and Lesser Flamingos as well as a large tern roost comprising Sandwich, Swift and Common Terns. Dinner and night were spent in Veldrif.
28 Oct: Veldrif-Springbok. After an early breakfast we pushed out towards Paternoster where we saw more Sickle-winged Chats and a Spotted Eagle Owl as well as Southern Ant-eating Chat. The key target, the Cape Long-billed Lark, was easily nabbed. We had along way to drive and as soon as we had seen the lark we moved up the N7 towards Clanwilliam. We stopped off at a small gully site near Clanwilliam where the birding was absolutely superb almost immediately adding the scarce Protea Canary (one of the tougher endemics). We also saw Cape Siskin (Keith only), Cape, Yellow and White-throated Canaries here as well as Red-faced and White-backed Mousebirds, Cape Bunting, Common Waxbill, Cape White-eye, European Bee-eater, Fiscal Flycatcher, Karoo Thrush, Long-billed Crombec, Ground Woodpecker, Southern Boubou and Fairy Flycatcher.
After tearing ourselves away, we started the long haul to Springbok. En-route a Lanner Falcon made a spectacular flyby. There were several Namaqua Sandgrouse that flew past, but the views were unsatisfactory. We found a suitable riverbed north of Vanrhynsdorp to look for a few more Karoo specialities. The wind was blowing madly, but we managed to see Namaqua Warbler, Karoo Robin, Pririt Batis, Lark-like Bunting, Layard’s Titbabbler and Rufous-vented Titbabbler.
As we were passing Kammieskroon, I decided to head up into the hills to have a look for some additional rock-loving species. We quickly added Red-winged and Pale-winged Starlings, Pied Barbet, Mountain Chat and the key localised endemic Cinnamon-breasted Warbler which showed very well after we scrambled up some rocks to get a better view. Then, without warning we saw separate flocks of both Black-eared and a little later Damara Canaries (although the existence of this latter species is speculative). Satisfied with the day’s haul, we headed for Springbok, where we enjoyed a typical big steak dinner in the Northern Cape and a good night’s rest.
29 Oct: Alexander Bay. We were up early this morning, heading via Stienkopf to Port Nolloth and then on to Alexander Bay. On the way we saw our first Pale Chanting Goshawk, how we had managed to miss it thus far was quite amazing. More Black Harriers graced the roadside at regular intervals. Greater Kestrel, Rufous-eared Warbler and a superb pair of Cape Long-billed Larks and Karoo Larks were seen just north of Port Nolloth. A little further north we scored both Karoo and Tractrac Chats. Once in Alex Bay we found some loose sandy orange dunes outside town, where we soon found the localised newly recognised Barlow’s Lark. Afterwards we headed to Pachtvlei Campsite where we quickly added the localised and recently split Orange River White-eye, as well as Peregrine Falcon along the river as well as Grey-headed Gull, White-backed Mousebird, Scimitar-billed Woodhoopoe, Pied Barbet, Red-eyed Bulbul and Cape Robin-chat.
In the late afternoon we headed back to Springbok and spent the late afternoon out towards the Goegap Nature Reserve area. We quickly capitalised with Familiar Chat, Southern Grey Tit, Dusky Sunbird, Cape Glossy Starling, Pale-winged Starling and the Namaqua population of Spike-heeled Lark (which may yet prove to be a split!) as well as a welcome small party of the scarce Karoo Eremomelas (our only ones of the trip). Night in Springbok.
30 Oct: Kammies Loop. We woke up at 04h30 and left long before dawn, driving down to Kammieskroon and heading into the Kammiesberg mountains on the road to Gamoep. At the twinkle of dawn a chunky Eagle Owl was spotted on a roadside telephone pole. We spotlighted it and confirmed that it was the capensis subspecies of the Cape Eagle Owl. This might be a potential split, it is only 66% the size of the Mackinder’s form farther north in Africa. Just the other side of Gamoep on the red alluvial sand of the fossil river bed of the Orange River, we found three different pairs of Red Lark here, males displaying, perching, signing, the whole toot. We also added Cape Penduline Tit, a small party of which passed through the area while we were lark hunting. Entering the wild expanses of Bushmanland is always exciting and we had soon added three new bustards to our lot, the enormous Ludwig’s, which we saw several times over the next few days, Karoo Korhaan and Northern Black Korhaan. Bushmanland is synonymous with larks and the plains support 12 species of Alaudidae. As we headed into the well-grassed plains we got both nomadic Grey-backed and Black-eared Finchlarks, hundreds of Lark-like Buntings, the Karoo-plains form of the Spike-heeled Lark. A waterhole alongside the road held hundreds of Namaqua Sandrouse, and they were finally seen to everyone’s complete satisfaction. This area also held a handful of Chat Flycatchers and Stark’s Lark. We headed through to Springbok, spotting Sociable Weaver in their massive nests en-route. We checked into the hotel and had a welcome salad lunch and cold drinks in the stifling heat. After a midday rest we headed out to the barren plains towards Kenhardt in the afternoon. In the roadside scrub we added Black-chested Prinia, Red-headed Finch and Scaly-feathered Finch. A waterhole held at least 12 Sclater’s Larks which constantly came in to drink. Walking the plains we scored a Double-banded Courser but not the target Burchell’s Courser. We spent the night in the Pofadder Hotel.
31 Oct: Pofadder Loop. Having done so well on the plains yesterday we decided to head north to the Orange River today. We stopped at several rocky areas en-route to look for larks and eventually succeeded by adding Karoo Long-billed and (Bradfield’s) Sabota Lark, the large-billed form, to our lists about 30 km north of Pofadder. Down near the border post we nabbed our major target bird, a pair of Rosy-faced Lovebirds that we watched for some time. The scrub around the river delivered Karoo Thrush, Zitting Cisticola, African Marsh Warbler, Lesser Swamp Warbler, Orange River White-eyes, Red-billed Quelea and Black-throated Canary. The Orange River itself yielded Striated Heron, Pied Wagtail and a few wild Ostriches on the Namibian side of the river striding into the open desert. Dinner and night in Pofadder.
1 Nov: Pofadder–Kenhardt-Karoo N.P. This morning we drove to Upington stopping at the Augrabies Falls en-route and then through to the Kenhardt plains. At Augrabies we managed to add Bradfield’s Swift to our list amongst six swift species. As we had already seen most of the important species we decided to target the few specialities we had yet to see. Leaving Upington we found some Kalahari-type woodland where we saw Fawn-coloured Lark (Keith only), Swallow-tailed Bee-eater and White-browed Sparrow-weaver. Driving through the Karoo we spotted a pair of Pygmy Falcons near a large Sociable Weaver nest. We spent a great deal of time searching open plains for Burchell’s Courser but failed to add this species to our list. A small bridge in the middle of the Karoo held a small breeding colony of South African Cliff Swallow. Coming through the Nuweveld escarpment we added Grey-winged Francolin and Booted Eagle to our list before heading into Beaufort West. We spent the night at the Karoo National Park.
2 Nov: Karoo N.P. In the morning we explored the Karoo National Park. The park combines spectacular mountain scenery with the very best of Karoo birding. The Khoisan hunter-gatherers, the oldest inhabitants of South Africa, called the central plateau the 'Karuu', or "place of great dryness". Belying its barren appearance, the Karoo is home to some 5 000 species of plant, including one third of all the world's succulent plant species. The park represents one of the more spectacular parts of the Karoo, with the impressive Nuweveld escarpment, which rises to 1 900 m, forming the backdrop for the lower plains. Despite only 170 bird species having been recorded in the park, it is extremely important for Namib-Karoo endemics, as well as supporting a host of other arid-zone specials. We saw many karroid species here, but I will only list the new ones we scored for the trip. The morning was spent up the Klipspringer pass where we saw more Ground Woodpeckers and added the endemic Rock Pipit to our list as well as Short-toed Rock Thrush and White-necked Raven. Due to our success in this area we decided to head straight for the Swartberg Mountains to boost our chances of seeing the fynbos endemics. The scrub near Prince Albert produced a gamut of goodies including better looks at Fairy Flycatcher. The top of the Swartberg yielded a full suite of fynbos restricted goodies including Cape Rock Thrush, the amazingly striking Cape Rockjumper, Orange-breasted Sunbird, Cape Sugarbird, Cape Siskin, Grey-backed Cisticola and Victorin’s Scrub Warbler. Having done the sweep of fynbos endemics we returned to Beaufort West where we found a Hamerkop near the small rivulet near the HQ. Night in the Karoo National Park and the magical Karoo lamb chops at their great restaurant.
Nov 3: Beaufort-Knysna
Because we had done the Swartberg Pass yesterday we were able to speed straight to the forested coastal strip of the southern Cape. Crossing the Outeniqua mountains we saw our first Mountain Buzzard before we made our way to a forest patch just outside George where we added Greater Double-collared Sunbird, Bar-throated Apalis and the real skulker, Knysna Scrub Warbler, which responded remarkably well to tape. Moving on towards Wilderness we stopped briefly at the Kaaimans River where we were able to add a host of exciting forest birds including Dusky Flycatcher, Cape Batis, Knysna Turaco, Black Sawwing Swallow, Sombre Greenbul, African Paradise Flycatcher, Black-backed Puffback, Olive Bush Shrike, Black-bellied Glossy Starling and Swee Waxbill. A stop in the town of Wilderness added Red-necked Francolin. We then traveled through to Knysna where we checked into the magnificent Phantom Forest Bush Camp. Later in the afternoon we ventured into the forest owned by the lodge where we recorded Yellow-throated Woodland Warbler, Green-backed Camaroptera, White-starred Robin, Terrestrial Brownbul, Olive Thrush and the gorgeous endemic Chorister Robin Chat, which was also Peary’s 5000th world bird, a real milestone moment. Cause for much celebration we all went up the hill to the Phantom Forest’s magical dining facilities where we toasted with a fine bottle of South Africa’s finest vino.
Nov 4: Knysna. We explored the Knysna forests and surrounds. Sandwiched between the sea and the rugged fold-belt mountains of the southern Cape, 450 km east of Cape Town, the Garden Route winds over mountainsides dappled with fynbos flowers before it plunges into the thickly forested gorges where cola-coloured rivers flow. Nourished by a mild and moist climate, this region is cloaked with the most extensive tracts of indigenous forests in South Africa, and is home to a host of Afrotropical highland endemic bird species. We started the morning by heading directly for Wilderness. We scored almost instantly with a Lemon Dove on the path only a few metres in front of us. We then walked the Half-collared Kingfisher Trail where we added Red-chested and Klass’ Cuckoo, Narina Trogon, Rameron Pigeon, Half-collared Kingfisher, Red-billed Woodhoopoe, Black-headed Oriole and Forest Canary. The afternoon was spent exploring Nature’s Valley. It was very cloudy and the majority of the afternoon was spent sheltering from the wet but we managed to add Olive Woodpecker and Black Sunbird. The cold and damp definitely impacted birding and the forests were at times deathly quiet, I had spent all day playing tape for Blue-mantled Flycatcher and still had not induced this common bird to show! We returned to the Phantom Forest, cold and bedraggled, for a yummy warm meal.
Nov 5: Knysna-De Hoop Nature Reserve. This morning we woke early to chase the last few specialities that we still needed. The sun was shining through the clouds and we were more optimistic that the flocks would be active. We made straight for Wilderness where, soon after we had arrived, we lucked onto a female African Finfoot swimming upsteam. Talk about luck! Very grateful, we scoured the forest nearby and soon heard the tell-tale call of a Blue-mantled Flycatcher. After a while we coaxed it out, much to the relief of the party who could now stop listening to the annoying trawling I had been trying for the last two days! Walking back to the car I heard a Knysna Woodpecker calling, a blast from the tape brought it in right over my head, everyone saw it, except Peary who was behind a bush. One bird flew across the river and the other called nearby. Slowly slowly, just Peary and I traced the bird until it popped up, and much to everyone’s relief we all saw the bird very well. Now that we had cleaned up all the southern forest specials we were able to move on. Taking the N2 highway west BK picked up a marvelous Secretarybird just west of Mossel Bay. Shortly afterwards we managed to pick up Agulhas Long-billed Lark, White Stork and Blue Crane.
Heading onto the Agulhas Plain and moving south towards Potberg we spotted 10 Cape Vultures circling, we also found a single distant Stanley’s Bustard. Moving down towards Cape Agulhas we stopped at the Hueningnes River Estuary where after a fair walk we picked up a magical and very scarce Damara Tern and Bully Canary. Later in the scrubby vegetation nearby we found a Southern Tchagra before heading to Buchu Bushcamp.
Nov 6: De Hoop-Cape Town. This morning was simply amazing. We started by exploring the area around Buchu. After a few kilometres I heard the telltale sound of a Striped Flufftail calling from low fynbos patches. We approached the general vicinity and played the tape. The bird, a male, first came running straight at me, saw me and turned around. We found an open rocky area and again called, the bird darted out of the fynbos only two metres away, paused for one second and shot back into vegetation. What a moment. The only sadness was that Donnie was not looking in the right place at the right time, and he dipped the bird. We spent the rest of the morning enjoying the general birding in the area, heading back to Cape Town early to catch up on e-mail and the like.
Nov 7: Cape Peninsula. Originally designed as a contingency morning for birding, because we had done so well we decided to do the tourist thing and enjoyed the sites and scenic splendour of the whole Cape Peninsula. We began at the world-renowned Kirstenbosch Botanical Gardens. We then wound along the spectacular drives on our way to Boulders Bay and the charismatic penguins. We continued along the scenic coastline to the Cape of Good Hope Nature Reserve. Here we saw Cape Point, with the added attractions of game viewing and whale watching. We tried to stomp for Hottentot Buttonquail, but the threat of Puffadders quickly got us back into the car! We ventured to Cape Town’s airport. We bade Donnie and Jackie farewell as they headed off home and we flew to Johannesburg and then transferred to Wakkerstroom, the famous high-altitude grassland area of South Africa. Overnight at the magical Wetlands Lodge and Anne MacPhearson’s fantastic dinners.
Nov 8: Wakkerstroom Biosphere Reserve: Located in a large area of agricultural parkland unaffected by forestry and people, the area surrounding the small town of Wakkerstroom is the centre of an endemic bird area, supporting some of the most threatened species in Africa. We headed out on the Amersfoort road at first light, seeking one of the world’s most threatened larks, the Critically Threatened Rudd’s Lark. The roadside was littered with Red-collared and Long-tailed Widows. We arrived at my stake-out shortly after dawn. Although these birds are scarce, in the breeding season they are obvious because of their aerial display flight and curious distinctive call. We waited about 20 minutes before one started calling. We located it and watched it for nearly 25 minutes circling high up as it refused to come down!! We decided to go looking for other specials and come back later for better views of this beast. We also found our regular party of four exquisite Blue Korhaan at this locality as well as (Eastern) Spike-heeled Lark. Genetically these birds are quite distinct from their western cousins and with the rate of splitting larks in southern Africa these days, it is better to bank them. We pushed farther north to my regular Botha’s Lark site seeing Red-winged Francolin en-route. No sooner had we arrived and BK said "what is this bird?" Five globally endangered Botha’s Larks foraged in the open field next to the chickens, quite incongruous!! With things going well we decided to head back to Wakkerstroom and head out on the Utrecht road where we soon found a pair of obliging Buff-streaked Chats followed by a pair of the globally threatened Yellow-breasted Pipits. We had managed to wrap up the threatened trio before lunch! A little further down the road we added Southern Bald Ibis, Drakensberg Prinia, Pale-crowned Cisticola, Sentinel Rock Thrush and Eastern Long-billed Lark. With a fair portion of the afternoon still to run we raced down to Dirkiesdorp. En route we managed to pick up Lazy Cisticola and Barratt’s Warbler in a small forest patch.
The afternoon was set to chase the recently split Barrow’s (White-bellied) Korhaan. It certainly is very different looking and behaving to its East African relatives and is almost certainly valid, so we needed to find it! Heading down to the stake-out, we lucked onto a group almost immediately and saw them extremely close to the road also finding Ayre’s Cisticola. On our way back from Dirkiesdorp we saw a Black-bellied Korhaan in a field when suddenly a Coqui Francolin song burst from the grasslands. We did not manage to flush it though and headed back to town to spend some time at the wetlands. Birding the wetlands was very productive and a lot of fun and we added a host of commoner species as well as Squacco Heron, African Rail, African Snipe, Grey Crowned Crane, African Marsh Warbler, Yellow Warbler, SA Cliff Swallow, African Marsh Harrier and Hottentot Teal.
Nov 9: Midlands–Sani Pass: With a travelling day ahead of us we returned to the Rudd’s Lark site to try get better looks at the birds. We eventually scored with a male Rudd’s Lark right next to the road. We scoffed a hearty bacon, eggs, sausages and toast breakfast courtesy of Ann McPhearson before hitting the road to the Drakensberg getting our first Black-collared Barbet in her garden. We added precious little else to our list on this day, but there were certainly some quality birds involved including a Rufous-naped Lark being reward for a roadside lunch and then a charming Bush Blackcap responded to call from a forest outside Bulwer. We made our way towards Donnybrook, finding a wetland en-route. Here we eventually enticed a Red-chested Flufftail out of the reeds for a brief view. Just outside Himeville we found a pair of Critically Threatened Wattled Crane with chick. Just before pulling into Robin Guy’s place a Rufous-necked Wryneck flew up from the lawn. We spent the night in Underberg, Sani Pass.
Nov 10: Sani Pass - full day: Weather was not looking good, clouded over, but we made our way towards Sani regardless. We found a flock of Southern Bald Ibis and thousands of Rameron Pigeons alongside the road and a lone White-backed Duck on a pond with many other waterfowl. We then started heading up the incredible pass, which takes us up to 3 482 m a.s.l., the highest mountain pass in southern Africa, taking us into the mountain kingdom of Lesotho. Where Proteas dominated we found the beautiful endemic Gurney’s Sugarbird, Wailing Cicticola, Cape Rock Thrush and ‘tinkling’ Grassbird. Near the base of the pass we searched the Leucosidea scrub for Bush Blackcap and Drakensberg Prinia which we found easily. Yellow Warbler was heard as was the incessant calling of a Barratt’s Warbler. Higher up, over the top and once into Lesotho we found Drakensberg Siskin near the Sani Top hotel, the amazing and striking Orange-breasted Rockjumper was also seen near here. Cape Bunting, Sentinel Rock Thrush , Thick-billed Lark, Sickle-winged Chat and Mountain Pipits and were seen before we decided to beat the weather by turning around and heading back down the mountains which were cold and clouded up. We left Underberg to get to Donnybrook and Xumeni Forest for the last few hours of the day. We were rewarded early on, with a pair of the highly threatened Cape Parrots returning from foraging at another forest. With less than 500 remaining, this is another of the country’s "endangered" species that we saw. The Xumeni forest is productive and we added Black Cuckoo, Forest Weaver, Blue-mantled Flycatcher and Starred Robins and a wonderful Orange Ground Thrush to our list. We also made a valiant attempt to find a calling Buff-spotted Flufftail, but after several attempts, we gave up when the bird stopped responding. We returned to Underberg for the night.
Nov 11: Creighton. Today we went down to Creighton via Xumeni. We looked for Buff-spotted Flufftail in the early morning and after several attempts gave up on what would have been our third flufftail of the trip. In the late morning we made for Creighton. After a wonderful breakfast served by Gail Gemmill we headed out in search of our main quarry, the Black-rumped Button-quail. This incredibly scarce bird is threatened with fewer than 1200 individuals remaining in South Africa. We flushed many Common Quails but no buttonquail. We saw Orange-breasted Waxbill here as well as five cisticolas in Creighton including two new for the trip Croaking and Cloud. We also found Broad-tailed Warbler and Fan-tailed Widowbird here. We decided to try another spot for the buttonquail and shortly after entering the other field had a pair take off at our feet and show as well as you can expect a flushing buttonquail to show. On our return we stopped at a Blue Swallow nest site. The Stafford’s were sure they had seen it before but we just went to take a look anyway. We found both male and female flitting effortlessly over the grassland, it was a great finale to the day. Gail cooked us a great dinner and we all hit the sack.
Nov 12: Creighton– Mtubatuba: Leaving Creighton in the early morning, we made a short stop at Dhlinza to view the canopy walkway and for an attempt at Spotted Thrush. It was a little late in the day and we dipped on the thrush, but we saw some good forest birds including Lemon Dove, Narina Trogon, Crowned Hornbill, Terrestrial Bulbul, Green-backed Camaroptera and Bronze Mannikin. We then made for Richard’s Bay and Thaluzihleka Pan. This area is always superbly productive and we added a few gems to our list including Woolly-necked Stork, African Pygmy Goose, Osprey, Lesser Jacana and Whiskered Tern as well as many White-backed Duck, Hottentot Teal and African Marsh Harrier. A productive reedbed stop yielded Black-backed Cisticola, Yellow and Brown-throated Weaver. Arriving in the late afternoon we drove to the Iphiva camp site near the entrance of the Game Reserve. This is a great spot and we added a lot of new birds in our first bird party, the most notable were the localised coastal forest specialities of the Mozambique coastal plain, Rudd’s Apalis and Brown Scrub Robin. Other new triplist birds were Yellow-bellied Greenbul, Yellow-throated Longclaw, African Goshawk, Natal Robin-chat, Collared and Grey Sunbird, Blue-grey Flycatcher, Black-bellied Glossy Starling, Forest Weaver and Yellow-rumped Tinkerbird. Overnight at Mtubatuba.
Nov 13: Lake St Lucia - Mkuzi: We spent the morning soaking up the incredible Lake St Lucia World Heritage Site and the waterbirds and bushveld birds associated with this magical and diverse lagoon. It was exceptionally windy, which deterred our birding activity, particularly in the dune forests that were very quiet. We explored Cape Vidal for several target birds and apart from the same species we saw yesterday we turned up trumps with great looks at Burchell’s Coucal, Broad-billed Roller, Grey Waxbill and eventually Woodward’s Batis and Crested Guineafowl, which had thus far proved elusive. The forests were pretty silent but we heard Livingstone’s Turacos calling in the distance and many White-eared Barbets in their holes. On the grassy floodplain we saw Red-breasted Swallow. We also saw added African Goshawk, African Fish Eagle, Crowned Eagle and Olive Sunbird to the long list of forest birds we had already seen on the trip. In the afternoon we made our way towards St Lucia estuary mouth where we added Pink-backed Pelican and then around to False Bay where we saw Purple-crested Turaco, Scarlet-chested Sunbird, Yellow White-eye, Mouse-coloured Flycatcher, Cuckoo Hawk and Tawny Eagle.
The afternoon saw us heading to the birdy bushveld of Mkuzi. We birded the area around Ghost Mountain Inn which produced Ground-scraper Thrush, Cape Glossy Starling, Lesser Masked Weaver, White-fronted Bee-eater, Kurrichane Thrush, Yellow-breasted Apalis, Southern Black Flycatcher and White-browed Robin-chat. Overnight Ghost Mountain Inn, Mkuzi.
Nov 14. Mkuzi Game Reserve: Up early, we headed directly for the near-legendary Mkuzi Game Reserve. This is where the White Rhino was saved from global extinction. Birding here is fantastic and 400 bird species that have been recorded in this small 36 000 ha gem. Time however was limited and we visited only a fraction of the habitats on offer, including pans, swamp forest, Acacia thornbush, woodland, riverine forest, and the highly unique sand forest. We spent the morning looking for the main sandforest specials. Heading directly for Kubube and Kumasinga hides, this is where we spent most of the morning and we bagged several of the Mozambique coastal specialities here including the Rudd’s Apalis and Neergaard’s Sunbird as well as a responsive Yellow-spotted Nicator and Gorgeous Bush Shrike. Other species we saw at Kubube were White-browed and Bearded Scrub Robins, Trumpeter Hornbill, Crowned Hornbill, Green-spotted and Tambourine Dove and Black-bellied Glossy Starling. Mouse-coloured Sunbird was seen along with Marico, Purple-banded, Collared and White-bellied sunbirds. While driving the reserve we encountered Southern Black Tit, Crested Barbet, Golden-tailed and Bearded Woodpecker, Rattling Cisticola, Red-backed Shrike, Brubru, Black-crowned Tchagra, Orange-breasted and Grey-headed Bush-shrikes, White Helmet-shrike, Violet-backed Starling, Red-billed Oxpecker, Long-billed Crombec, Red-fronted Tinkerbird, Black Cuckoo-shrike, Southern Yellow-billed Hornbill, Little and European Bee-eaters, Red-billed and Scimitar-billed Woodhoopoes, White-backed and Lappet-faced vultures as well as Wahlberg’s Eagle and Black-bellied Korhaan. Mantuma Camp yielded Pygmy Kingfisher, Blue-breasted Cordon-blue and Golden-breasted Bunting. An afternoon stop at Nsumo Pan was productive, yielding Great Egret, Yellow-billed and Open-billed Stork. We headed back to Ghost Mountain Inn, picking up Fiery-necked Nightjar on the way back.
15 Nov: Mkuzi Game Reserve full day: Today we again spent the entire day at Mkuzi trying to clean-up on what we had missed. The drought had left the seedeaters thin on the ground and we still needed Pink-throated Twinspot. After some handy inside information from one of the rangers we scored the twinspot close to Mantuma Camp. Throughout the day we added Bataleur, Little Sparrowhawk, Grey Go-away Bird, Jacobin, Diederik and Red-chested Cuckoo, Pied Barbet, Lesser Honeyguide, White-throated Robin-chat, Chinspot Batis, Spectacled and Village Weaver, White-winged Widowbird and Red-billed Firefinch to our list.
16 Nov: Mkuzi-Joberg. Our last day, we decided to go back to Mkuzi to do the Fig Forest walk. While we dipped on the African Broadbill, we were able to say farewell to many favourites and enjoyed a wonderful last walk in the wonderful surrounds of Mkuzi. Some Brown-headed Parrots flew overhead and Black-bellied Glossy Starlings and White-eared Barbets were commonplace. After our walk we returned to Mantuma camp and drove back to Joberg chatting about what a great success the trip had been. There is no doubt that an endemics and near-endemics haul of this proportion will be exceptionally difficult to repeat in future! We headed straight to the airport and bade farewells, at least, till we meet again, it was a great trip all round!
Conclusions
B.K., Peary, Donnie and Jackie are experienced birders all sporting lifelists in excess of 4000 including considerable African experience. We scored on just about all their target birds including all the endemics except for one dubious split and a host of other near-endemics. Everyone finished off with about 200 lifers each. All in all, it was an almost impossible trip to better.
Trip List
Based on the list of the new authoritative Robert’s VII, which is due for release in 2003. The totals cited do not include heard birds or birds seen only by the guide. For the sake of completeness however, birds heard or seen only by the guide (demarked explicitly GO (guide only)) are included in the detailed annotated list below. Threatened status, according to the Eskom Red Data Book of South Africa, Lesotho and Swaziland denoted as (CR) Critically Threatened, (En) Endangered, (Vu) Vulnerable or (nt) Near-threatened. Endemics to South Africa/Lesotho/Swaziland are marked with an (E) and underlined. Endemics to southern Africa are marked (NE) and are in italics.
Buff-spotted Flufftail Sarothrura elegans – (HO)
heard only, at Xumeni Forest.
Livingstone's Lourie (Turaco) Tauraco livingstonii
(GO) Heard at Lake St Lucia
Black Cuckoo Cuculus clamosus (GO) – one at
Xumeni – seen previously by participants
African Emerald Cuckoo Chrysococcyx cupreus (GO) – one at Dhlinza – seen previously by participants
(NE) Fawn-coloured Lark Mirafra africanoides – (GO)
Keith saw this just south of Upington.
(NE) (Namaqua) Spike-heeled Lark Chersomanes a. garrula
– seen once near Port Nolloth
(NE) (Karoo) Spike-heeled Lark Chersomanes a. albofasciata – seen many times in Bushmanland
Brown-crowned Tchagra Tchagra australis – (GO) – heard
only by Keith
Eastern Olive Sunbird Nectarinia olivacea (GO)
– common throughout coastal forests, because this had been seen elsewhere
the Stafford’s did not bother chasing it.