SOUTHERN ECUADOR (with 2 days in the Tandayapa Valley) 15 - 28 February 2003 Leader: Nick Athanas Participants: W. Hardy Eshbaugh Jim Reid
Bird of the trip! A spectacular but confusing juvenile Black-and-chestnut Eagle.

The trip got off to a tough start when Jim & Hardy arrived in Quito 15 hours late after their flight was diverted to Guayaquil due to bad weather. Fortunately for them, they had decided to arrive a day early, so they still had more than a full day to bird the Tandayapa valley before heading south. We made the most of it and ended up seeing some of the most sought-after birds in the region including Plate-billed Mountain-Toucan, Toucan Barbet, Tanager Finch, Velvet-Purple Coronet, and Empress Brilliant.
 

Cloud forest scenes like this are common in the Tandayapa Valley	A Collared Inca perched near Bellavista.

The primary part of the tour began after a short flight to the city of Loja, the only major city in the southern reaches of Ecuador. The dry scrub of the surrounding area was a stark change to the humid forests of the Tandayapa Valley! This was our first glimpse of the arid Tumbesian region, which encompasses a large part of western Ecuador and part of northwestern Peru. The dry climate is caused by the cold Humboldt current coming up the coast of South America, and the area is rich in endemic birds. Birding right around the airport can be very productive, and we enjoyed sorting through a large mixed flock of finches, finding Drab and Chestnut-throated Seedeaters as well as Dull-colored and Blue-black Grassquits. A Band-tailed Sierra-Finch also made an appearance.

Our first major destination was the reserve at Buenaventura. The wet, forested mountain slopes here represent the southernmost extent of the Chocó bioregion, yet some special Tumbesian birds also occur here. The most famous is the El Oro Parakeet, an endemic species found only in a few sites in southwestern Ecuador. This may be the most consistently foggy area I have ever been to, and our visit was no exception. We were enshrouded in thick fog nearly the entire time, and this made looking for canopy birds (such as parakeets!) very difficult. This meant we could spend some time on the understory birds, and the star of the show was undoubtedly a Plain-backed Antpitta. This bird is notoriously difficult to observe, so we were in for a surprise when one brave bird decided to perch repeatedly in the open close to the trail! This was the first (seen) antpitta for both Hardy and Jim, and we could not have hoped for a better view. We also enjoyed playing hide and seek with a Song Wren, and we saw several Pacific Tuftedcheeks at close range. One area along the upper road was free of fog, so we spent some time scanning for raptors and parakeets. With persistence we finally found a perched Gray-backed Hawk, trying vainly to dry its feathers in the humid climate. Nearby sat a Hook-billed Kite, and all of us agreed it was the best view we had ever gotten of it! See the photos below...
 
 

A Gray-backed Hawk in a Bromeliad-laden tree.	Hook-billed Kites are not-often seen perched!

Next we ventured into the deciduous lowland and foothill forests near the Peruvian border in the far southwest. Huge Ceiba trees towered over the canopy and a thick, brushy understory dominated. Some of these areas, such as the Puyango and Jorupe reserves, had experience heavy rainfall recently, and normally dry, dusty, gray terrain had been transformed into a lush, green wonderland. Normally this would be good for the birds, but we discovered that most species were nesting and very secretive. We still managed to see most of them but numbers were low and it was often difficult. The star of the show at Puyango was another antpitta: A Watkins's Antpitta that quite literally ran up the side of a tree and sat in plain view! Right afterwards a pair of Henna-hooded Foliage-gleaners provided close views, and later in the morning we managed to coax in a Gray-capped Cuckoo. This reserve protects some petrified trees and they were also interesting to look at. The Jorupe reserve can be a great place to bird, but it was a bit difficult because everything was nesting. We even found a nest of Henna-hooded Foliage-gleaner, and found a pair of Blue-crowned Motmots that were carrying food. We still managed to find some great birds like Blackish-headed Spinetail and Slaty Becard. We found two different males of the latter species, and each one responded to playback by flying to a high perch and repeatedly fanning its tail out in what must have been a form agonistic display.

The highland areas on the Tumbesian region also hold numerous specialties not found anywhere else. We concentrated on two areas: forest patches near the town of Sozoranga and the new Jocotoco reserve near the village of Utuana. The best reserve near Sozoranga is called El Tundo, but the road was washed out and we could not get there despite a serious attempt. We instead searched a forest patch near the town that still has Rufous-headed Chachalacas as well as a few other rare birds like Gray-breasted Flycatcher. The town itself has a large colony of the attractive Chestnut-collared Swallow. Utuana is much higher elevation and holds one of the last remaining populations of Gray-headed Antbird. This distinctive antbird skulks in bamboo and is extremely hard to see, we managed several quick looks at one as we crouched uncomfortably in the mud. The reserve is also the best place I know in Ecuador to find Piura Hemispingus, Black-crested Tit-Tyrant, and Piura Hemispingus, all of which we saw very well.

It was time to leave the Tumbesian behind and start concentrating on the avian riches of the east slope of the Andes. We started with the temperate forests of Cajanuma and Tapichalaca. Our morning in Cajanuma was one of my most memorable. The sheer number of colorful, spectacular birds had all of us in awe by the time we left. The star of the show was a huge, almost all white, immature Black-and-chestnut Eagle that swooped overhead and landed in plain view not 20 meters from us. It was such an unusal-looking individual that we first thought it was a Crested Eagle! Check out the title photo. The Gray-breasted Mountain-Toucan that also sat in plain view was a close second, but the Red-hooded and Golden-crowned Tanagers were also unforgettable.

Tapichalaca reserve is a true gem. The lodge has to be seen to be believed! This was the original Jocotoco Reserve, formed after the antpitta of the same name was discovered here a few years ago. Even if the antpitta wasn't here it would be worth visiting to experience these remote and beautiful mountains. Our antpitta luck continued here as we not only saw the Jocotoco Antpitta hopping along the trail, but also had even better views of Rufous and Slate-crowned Antpittas! The hummer feeders at the lodge provide something to watch even when it's raining. Amethyst-throated and Flame-throated Sunangels, Rufous-capped Thornbills, Chestnut-breasted Coronets, and Long-tailed Sylphs are just some of the beauties that are regular here.

Our last major destination was the the area of humid foothill forest around the town of Zamora. The Río Bombuscaro sector of Podocarpus National Park is easily accessible from here, and parts of the old Loja-Zamora road provide access to slightly higher elevations. We saw a large number of birds in this area, but the most memorable species might be the White-breasted Parakeet. This species is nearly endemic to the area and is easy to miss, but me somehow managed to run into them around just about every corner, and each time they seemed to land in a nearby fruiting tree providing tremendous views. Some of the other more memorable birds were Coppery-chested Jacamar, Scale-backed Antbird, Black-billed Treehunter, and many, many, many tanagers of all different shapes, sizes, and colors.
 
 

A Flame-throated Sunangel near the feeders at Tapichalaca.	One of the many White-breasted Parakeets we saw on the tour.

Finally we had to leave this rich area and drive back up the long, sinuous road to Loja. For once the weather at the pass was nice, but everything had gone to roost early and we saw only one Glossy Flowerpiercer and heard an unresponsive Mouse-colored Thistletail. The next morning we flew back to Quito and (for once!) had a late and leisurely breakfast to end the tour.

15 Feb: Incoming AA flight landed in Guayaquil instead of Quito due to bad weather. Night Guayaquil.
16 Feb: Group arrives in Quito mid-day. Travel to Bellavista Lodge in time for lunch. Afternoon birding near the lodge. Night Bellavista Lodge.
17 Feb:  Early morning birding along the road in the Tandayapa Valley. Late morning birding at Tandayapa Bird Lodge. Hummingbird watching after lunch. Return to Quito via the old highway. Night Quito.
18 Feb: Early morning flight to Loja. Morning birding in Catamayo and along the road to Zaruma. Lunch in Zaruma. Afternoon birding in Buenaventura. Night Roland Hotel in Zaruma.
19 Feb: Full day birding Buenaventura. Night in Roland Hotel.
20 Feb: Drive to Puyango reserve with a couple of short birding stops. Bird Puyango until noon. Drive to Macará in the afternoon with birding stops in very dry forest near El Empalme. Late afternoon birding near Macará. Night in Hotel Espiga de Oro in Macará.
21 Feb: Morning birding in the Jorupe reserve. Afternoon birding near Sozoranga. Night in Hotel Espiga de Oro in Macará.
22 Feb: Early morning birding near Sozoranga. Later morning birding in the Utuana reserve. Afternoon drive to Vilcabamba with a birding stop in Catamayo.
23 Feb: Morning birding in the Cajanuma sector of Podocarpus NP. Afternoon drive to Tapichalaca reserve. Afternoon birding around the lodge. Night Tapìchalaca Lodge.
24 Feb: Full day birding the trails at Tapichalaca. Night Tapichalaca Lodge.
25 Feb: Morning birding between Tapichalaca and Valladolid. Afternoon drive to Zaruma. Night Hotel Orillas del Zamora.
26 Feb: Full day birding the Río Bombuscaro sector of Podocarpus NP and also the entrance road. Night Hotel Orillas del Zamora.
27 Feb: Most of the day birding along the old Loja-Zamora road. Afternoon drive back to Loja, with a stop at the pass. Night Hotel Bombuscaro in Loja.
28 Feb: Early morning flight back to Quito. End of tour.

TINAMOUS
Tawny-breasted Tinamou (Nothocercus julius) (H)
Pale-browed Tinamou (Crypturellus transfasciatus) (H)
GREBES
Pied-billed Grebe (Podilymbus podiceps)
CORMORANTS AND SHAGS
Neotropic Cormorant (Phalacrocorax brasilianus)
HERONS, BITTERNS, AND EGRETS
Great Egret (Ardea alba)
Snowy Egret (Egretta thula)
Cattle Egret (Bubulcus ibis)
Striated Heron (Butorides striatus)
AMERICAN VULTURES
Black Vulture (Coragyps atratus)
Turkey Vulture (Cathartes aura)
KITES, EAGLES, HAWKS, AND OSPREY
Hook-billed Kite (Chondrohierax uncinatus)
Swallow-tailed Kite (Elanoides forficatus)
Double-toothed Kite (Harpagus bidentatus)
Gray-backed Hawk (Leucopternis occidentalis) - Only one, but seen well in the scope in a distant tree at Buenaventura, in one of the few areas not enshrouded in fog.
Savanna Hawk (Buteogallus meridionalis)
Harris's Hawk (Parabuteo unicinctus)
Black-chested Buzzard-Eagle (Geranoaetus melanoleucus)
Roadside Hawk (Buteo magnirostris)
Short-tailed Hawk (Buteo brachyurus)
Black-and-chestnut Eagle (Oroaetus isidori) - A spectacular view of an immature bird at Cajanuma. This individual was almost all white and bore an uncanny resemblance to a Crested Eagle - in fact, we initially thought it was one!
FALCONS AND CARACARAS
Northern Crested-Caracara (Caracara cheriway)
Barred Forest-Falcon (Micrastur ruficollis) (H)
American Kestrel (Falco sparverius)
Bat Falcon (Falco rufigularis)
CURASSOWS, GUANS, AND CHACHALACAS
Rufous-headed Chachalaca (Ortalis erythroptera) - We finally enjoyed a good view of this declining cracid near Sozoranga after hearing it the day before at Jorupe.
Bearded Guan (Penelope barbata) - One at the usual spot near km 7 in Cajanuma.
Sickle-winged Guan (Chamaepetes goudotii)
NEW WORLD QUAILS
Rufous-fronted Wood-Quail (Odontophorus erythrops) (H)
Rufous-breasted Wood-Quail (Odontophorus speciosus) (H)
RAILS, GALLINULES, AND COOTS
Purple Gallinule (Porphyrula martinica) - One bird in a pond near La Victoria - perhaps a slight extension of its known range.
SANDPIPERS, SNIPES, AND PHALAROPES
Spotted Sandpiper (Actitis macularia)
PIGEONS AND DOVES
Rock Pigeon (Columba livia)
Band-tailed Pigeon (Columba fasciata)
Ruddy Pigeon (Columba subvinacea) (H)
Plumbeous Pigeon (Columba plumbea)
Eared Dove (Zenaida auriculata)
Ecuadorian Ground-Dove (Columbina buckleyi) - Small flocks between Catamayo and Zaruma, at Puyango, and near Macará.
Croaking Ground-Dove (Columbina cruziana)
White-tipped Dove (Leptotila verreauxi)
White-throated Quail-Dove (Geotrygon frenata)
PARROTS AND MACAWS
Red-masked Parakeet (Aratinga erythrogenys) - We saw them in many areas in the Southwest, but always in flight. Fortunately, one flock north of Macará flew low enough to give us a decent view.
Scarlet-fronted Parakeet (Aratinga wagleri) - One of the most unusual sightings of the trip. We found a flock of about 7 individuals at 1900 meters elevation in a patch of remnant cloud forest north of Valladolid. They perched in a tree for a few minutes allowing us to scope them. This is a very rare species in Ecuador with few recent sightings, and this may represent the first record outside the province of Loja.
Golden-plumed Parakeet (Leptosittaca branickii) - Flocks flew over Tapichalaca fairly regularly, unfortunately usually in the fog!
White-breasted Parakeet (Pyrrhura albipectus) - We had repeated superb views of this beautiful parakeet both at Río Bombuscaro and along the old Loja-Zamora road. Sometimes this bird is a struggle but not on this trip! This species is virtually endemic to the foothills of southeastern Ecuador.
Pacific Parrotlet (Forpus coelestis) - Surprisingly few, but seen well in Catamayo, near El Empalme, and near Jorupe.
Gray-cheeked Parakeet (Brotogeris pyrrhopterus) - Not many flocks, but we finally had decent scope views at Puyango.
Red-billed Parrot (Pionus sordidus)
White-capped Parrot (Pionus seniloides) (H)
Bronze-winged Parrot (Pionus chalcopterus)
Scaly-naped Amazon (Amazona mercenaria)
CUCKOOS AND ANIS
Gray-capped Cuckoo (Coccyzus lansbergi) - It took some work, but me finally saw it well in Puyango. One of my two lifers for the trip.
Squirrel Cuckoo (Piaya cayana)
Smooth-billed Ani (Crotophaga ani)
Groove-billed Ani (Crotophaga sulcirostris)
Striped Cuckoo (Tapera naevia)
TYPICAL OWLS
Pacific Pygmy-Owl (Glaucidium peruanum) - We had a hard time with owls on this trip. We did spend some time looking, but apart from this remarkably diurnal species we came up empty.
POTOOS
Common Potoo (Nyctibius griseus) - One perched like a sentinel outside our cabin at Bellavista.
NIGHTJARS AND NIGHTHAWKS
Swallow-tailed Nightjar (Uropsalis segmentata) - A female seen at Tapichalaca. A male was singing near Bellavista but wouldn't respond to playback.
SWIFTS
White-collared Swift (Streptoprocne zonaris)
Chestnut-collared Swift (Streptoprocne rutilus)
Lesser Swallow-tailed Swift (Panyptila cayennensis)
HUMMINGBIRDS
White-whiskered Hermit (Phaethornis yaruqui)
Green Hermit (Phaethornis guy)
Tawny-bellied Hermit (Phaethornis syrmatophorus) (H)
Gray-chinned Hermit (Phaethornis griseogularis)
White-tipped Sicklebill (Eutoxeres aquila) - At Heliconia flowers in Buenaventura, unfortunately I was the only one who saw it.
Green-fronted Lancebill (Doryfera ludovicae)
Brown Violet-ear (Colibri delphinae)
Green Violet-ear (Colibri thalassinus)
Sparkling Violet-ear (Colibri coruscans)
Western Emerald (Chlorostilbon melanorhynchus)
Fork-tailed Woodnymph (Thalurania furcata)
Green-crowned Woodnymph (Thalurania fannyi)
Emerald-bellied Woodnymph (Thalurania hypochlora) - Two females and a male seen along the main trail at Buenaventura.
Rufous-tailed Hummingbird (Amazilia tzacatl)
Amazilia Hummingbird (Amazilia amazilia) - We saw both the lowland race dumerilii and the highland race alticola. The latter is regarded by some authorities as being a distinct species, the Loja Hummingbird.
Andean Emerald (Amazilia franciae)
Glittering-throated Emerald (Amazilia fimbriata)
Speckled Hummingbird (Adelomyia melanogenys)
Purple-bibbed Whitetip (Urosticte benjamini) - This spectacular Chocó endemic was quite common at the feeders at Tandayapa Bird Lodge.
Ecuadorian Piedtail (Phlogophilus hemileucurus) - One seen well along the trails at Río Bombuscaro. A sneaky hummer found only in understory of primary forest.
Empress Brilliant (Heliodoxa imperatrix) - At least one male and several females were visiting the feeders at Tandayapa Bird Lodge.
Green-crowned Brilliant (Heliodoxa jacula)
Violet-fronted Brilliant (Heliodoxa leadbeateri)
Fawn-breasted Brilliant (Heliodoxa rubinoides)
Mountain Velvetbreast (Lafresnaya lafresnayi)
Bronzy Inca (Coeligena coeligena)
Brown Inca (Coeligena wilsoni) - Tandayapa Bird Lodge feeders.
Collared Inca (Coeligena torquata)
Buff-winged Starfrontlet (Coeligena lutetiae)
Rainbow Starfrontlet (Coeligena iris) - The most common hummer in the Utuana reserve.
Buff-tailed Coronet (Boissonneaua flavescens)
Chestnut-breasted Coronet (Boissonneaua matthewsii)
Velvet-purple Coronet (Boissonneaua jardini) - This is a rare visitor to the feeders at Tandayapa Bird Lodge, but we got lucky.
Amethyst-throated Sunangel (Heliangelus amethysticollis) - A regular visitor to the feeders at Tapichalaca.
Gorgeted Sunangel (Heliangelus strophianus) - At least one was visiting the feeders at Bellavista.
Flame-throated Sunangel (Heliangelus micrastur) - Common in temperate forest in the south.
Purple-throated Sunangel (Heliangelus viola) - Only a few glimpses in Utuana.
Sapphire-vented Puffleg (Eriocnemis luciani)
Booted Racket-tail (Ocreatus underwoodii)
Green-tailed Trainbearer (Lesbia nuna)
Tyrian Metaltail (Metallura tyrianthina)
Rufous-capped Thornbill (Chalcostigma ruficeps) - One or two were coming to the feeders at Tapichalaca. Hardy also found one along the Loja-Zamora road.
Long-tailed Sylph (Aglaiocercus kingi)
Violet-tailed Sylph (Aglaiocercus coelestis) - Common at the Tandayapa feeders.
Wedge-billed Hummingbird (Schistes geoffroyi)
Black-eared Fairy (Heliothryx aurita)
Long-billed Starthroat (Heliomaster longirostris)
Purple-throated Woodstar (Calliphlox mitchellii) - Common at the Tandayapa feeders.
White-bellied Woodstar (Acestrura mulsant)
TROGONS AND QUETZALS
Crested Quetzal (Pharomachrus antisianus) (H)
Golden-headed Quetzal (Pharomachrus auriceps)
Ecuadorian Trogon (Trogon mesurus) - Seen well at Jorupe, but also glimpsed at Puyango. This is a split from Black-tailed Trogon, and it is nearly endemic to Ecuador.
Collared Trogon (Trogon collaris)
Masked Trogon (Trogon personatus)
KINGFISHERS
Ringed Kingfisher (Megaceryle torquata)
Green Kingfisher (Chloroceryle americana)
MOTMOTS
Blue-crowned Motmot (Momotus momota)
JACAMARS
Coppery-chested Jacamar (Galbula pastazae) - One of the special birds of the east Ecuador foothills. We got to study one at close range in Río Bombuscaro.
NEW WORLD BARBETS
Red-headed Barbet (Eubucco bourcierii)
Toucan Barbet (Semnornis ramphastinus) - There was a pair nesting in a dead tree along the trails at Tandayapa Bird Lodge.
TOUCANS
Chestnut-tipped Toucanet (Aulacorhynchus derbianus) - One very shy bird along the Loja-Zamora road. All we ever saw was its head and beak!
Pale-mandibled Araçari (Pteroglossus erythropygius) - We saw one small band at Buenaventura.
Plate-billed Mountain-Toucan (Andigena laminirostris) - The bird on the cover of the field guide, and we were all happy to see it near Bellavista.
Gray-breasted Mountain-Toucan (Andigena hypoglauca) - A truly amazing bird that rivals the previous species in gaudiness. We were lucky enough to see one in plain view and good light at Cajanuma.
WOODPECKERS AND PICULETS
Lafresnaye's Piculet (Picumnus lafresnayi)
Ecuadorian Piculet (Picumnus sclateri) - A cute pair responded fiercly to a pygmy owl recording between Catamayo and Zaruma.
Crimson-mantled Woodpecker (Piculus rivolii)
Golden-olive Woodpecker (Piculus rubiginosus)
Lineated Woodpecker (Dryocopus lineatus)
Smoky-brown Woodpecker (Veniliornis fumigatus)
Scarlet-backed Woodpecker (Veniliornis callonotus) - Only one sighting in the forest at Jorupe.
Powerful Woodpecker (Campephilus pollens)
OVENBIRDS
Pacific Hornero (Furnarius cinnamomeus) - A common but delightful bird found throughout the southwest.
Azara's Spinetail (Synallaxis azarae)
Slaty Spinetail (Synallaxis brachyura)
Dark-breasted Spinetail (Synallaxis albigularis)
Blackish-headed Spinetail (Synallaxis tithys) - Good views of this endangered Tumbesian endemic in the Jorupe forest.
Rufous Spinetail (Synallaxis unirufa)
Ash-browed Spinetail (Cranioleuca curtata)
Line-cheeked Spinetail (Cranioleuca antisiensis) - Found in a surprising range of habitats in the soithwest.
Mouse-colored Thistletail (Schizoeaca griseomurina) (H)
Streaked Tuftedcheek (Pseudocolaptes boissonneautii)
Pacific Tuftedcheek (Pseudocolaptes johnsoni) - It was nice to find several of these in mixed flocks in Buenaventura. A rather scarce and local species.
Pearled Treerunner (Margarornis squamiger)
Spotted Barbtail (Premnoplex brunnescens)
Lineated Foliage-gleaner (Syndactyla subalaris)
Rufous-necked Foliage-gleaner (Syndactyla ruficollis) - The only one we found was in the Jorupe forest and it did a good job at hiding from us. Hardy eventually got a good view.
Scaly-throated Foliage-gleaner (Anabacerthia variegaticeps)
Montane Foliage-gleaner (Anabacerthia striaticollis)
Henna-hooded Foliage-gleaner (Hylocryptus erythrocephalus) - Perfect views of a pair in Puyango. We  found a nest the next day in Jorupe in a bank along the side of the road.
Striped Treehunter (Thripadectes holostictus)
Black-billed Treehunter (Thripadectes melanorhynchus) - Several were nesting along the trail in Bombuscaro.
Streaked Xenops (Xenops rutilans)
Sharp-tailed Streamcreeper (Lochmias nematura) (H)
WOODCREEPERS
Wedge-billed Woodcreeper (Glyphorynchus spirurus)
Olivaceous Woodcreeper (Sittasomus griseicapillus)
Spotted Woodcreeper (Xiphorhynchus erythropygius)
Streak-headed Woodcreeper (Lepidocolaptes souleyetii)
Montane Woodcreeper (Lepidocolaptes lacrymiger)
TYPICAL ANTBIRDS
Great Antshrike (Taraba major)
Collared Antshrike (Sakesphorus bernardi) - A pretty and bold Tumbesian endemic which we saw near El Empalme and near Jorupe.
Lined Antshrike (Thamnophilus tenuepunctatus)
Chapman's Antshrike (Thamnophilus zarumae) - A female came out to the side of the road in some remnant montane forest west of Catamayo.
Uniform Antshrike (Thamnophilus unicolor)
Plain Antvireo (Dysithamnus mentalis) (H)
Foothill Antwren (Myrmotherula spodionota)
Slaty Antwren (Myrmotherula schisticolor)
Blackish Antbird (Cercomacra nigrescens)
White-browed Antbird (Myrmoborus leucophrys) (H)
Scale-backed Antbird (Hylophylax poecilinota) - An immature male responded to the tape and sat in plain view for several minutes!
Gray-headed Antbird (Myrmeciza griseiceps) - One of the most endangered Tumbesian endemics. It is  extremely difficult to see. We managed some brief views in a stand of bamboo in the Utuana reserve.
ANTTHRUSHES AND ANTPITTAS
Rufous-breasted Antthrush (Formicarius rufipectus) (H)
Short-tailed Antthrush (Chamaeza campanisona) (H)
Undulated Antpitta (Grallaria squamigera) (H)
Scaled Antpitta (Grallaria guatimalensis) (H)
Moustached Antpitta (Grallaria alleni) (H)
Plain-backed Antpitta (Grallaria haplonota) - One put on a spectacular show in Buenaventura as we saw it repeatedly in plain view near the trail. Antpittas are not supposed to do this...
Chestnut-crowned Antpitta (Grallaria ruficapilla) - I had a brief look at one while we were trying to see the Gray-headed Antbird.
Watkins's Antpitta (Grallaria watkinsi) - This antpitta behaved more like a woodcreeper as it scuttled up a tree trunk and sat in full view for us. What a treat!
Jocotoco Antpitta (Grallaria ridgelyi) - We had given up hope when one hopped out into the trail in front of us on the walk back to the lodge at Tapichalaca!
Chestnut-naped Antpitta (Grallaria nuchalis) (H) - So common at Tapichalaca, but none of them wanted to play with us.
White-bellied Antpitta (Grallaria hypoleuca) (H)
Rufous Antpitta (Grallaria rufula) - Jim saw one at Cajanuma, but we all enjoyed watching one hopping along the trail at Tapichalaca.
Slate-crowned Antpitta (Grallaricula nana) - A late afternoon walk at Tapichalaca produced a close encounter with this cute bird.
TAPACULOS
Elegant Crescentchest (Melanopareia elegans) - Most people can't believe this is a tapaculo! This amazingly-patterned bird ran around right in front of us. The habitat was so parched that there were no leaves for it to hide behind.
Ash-colored Tapaculo (Myornis senilis)
Unicolored Tapaculo (Scytalopus unicolor)
Equatorial Rufous-vented Tapaculo (Scytalopus micropterus) (H)
Northern White-crowned Tapaculo (Scytalopus atratus)
Nariño Tapaculo (Scytalopus vicinior) - One briefly hopped onto a log during our walk on the trails at Tandayapa Bird Lodge.
Spillmann's Tapaculo (Scytalopus spillmanni)
Chusquea Tapaculo (Scytalopus parkeri) - Heard everywhere in temperate forest in the south, but only seen once along the trails at Tapichalaca.
TYRANT FLYCATCHERS
Black-capped Tyrannulet (Phyllomyias nigrocapillus)
Golden-faced Tyrannulet (Zimmerius chrysops)
Loja Tyrannulet (Zimmerius flavidifrons) - A split off of the previous species. It is found mostly in the highlands of southwestern Ecuador, but birds from the Abra Patricia-Afluente area of  northern Peru are sometimes considered to be this form as well.
Southern Beardless-Tyrannulet (Camptostoma obsoletum)
Tumbesian Tyrannulet (Phaeomyias tumbezana) - Just one sighting of about three individuals near Sozoranga.
Pacific Elaenia (Myiopagis subplacens) - Seen along the Catamayo-Zaruma and in Jorupe, heard a few other places.
Yellow-bellied Elaenia (Elaenia flavogaster)
Mottle-backed Elaenia (Elaenia gigas) - One of the most distinctive elaenias.  It seems to be spreading as it is now quite common in the Zamora area.
White-crested Elaenia (Elaenia albiceps)
White-banded Tyrannulet (Mecocerculus stictopterus)
White-tailed Tyrannulet (Mecocerculus poecilocercus)
Torrent Tyrannulet (Serpophaga cinerea)
Black-crested Tit-Tyrant (Anairetes nigrocristatus) - A gorgeous bird that only barely reaches Ecuador. We saw one in the Utuana reserve.
Tawny-crowned Pygmy-Tyrant (Euscarthmus meloryphus)
Streak-necked Flycatcher (Mionectes striaticollis)
Olive-striped Flycatcher (Mionectes olivaceus)
Slaty-capped Flycatcher (Leptopogon superciliaris)
Ecuadorian Tyrannulet (Phylloscartes gualaquizae) - We found a responsive pair along the old Loja-Zamora road.
Rufous-headed Pygmy-Tyrant (Pseudotriccus ruficeps)
Scale-crested Pygmy-Tyrant (Lophotriccus pileatus)
Black-and-white Tody-Flycatcher (Poecilotriccus capitalis)
Common Tody-Flycatcher (Todirostrum cinereum)
Yellow-olive Flatbill (Tolmomyias sulphurescens)
Ornate Flycatcher (Myiotriccus ornatus)
Bran-colored Flycatcher (Myiophobus fasciatus)
Olive-chested Flycatcher (Myiophobus cryptoxanthus) - It was fairly common in cut-over areas around Zamora.
Orange-banded Flycatcher (Myiophobus lintoni) - My other lifer of the trip. We saw quite a few of them along the trails at Tapichalaca.
Cinnamon Flycatcher (Pyrrhomyias cinnamomea)
Western Wood-Pewee (Contopus sordidulus)
Tumbes Pewee (Contopus punensis) - Good views in the scope of one near El Empalme.
Smoke-colored Pewee (Contopus fumigatus)
Gray-breasted Flycatcher (Lathrotriccus griseipectus) - Heard in a forest patch near Sozoranga. I managed a brief view during our picnic breakfast but could not relocate it.
Black Phoebe (Sayornis nigricans)
Vermilion Flycatcher (Pyrocephalus rubinus)
Rufous-breasted Chat-Tyrant (Ochthoeca rufipectoralis)
Jelski's Chat-Tyrant (Silvicultrix jelskii) - Another specialty of the Utuana reserve. We saw it very well.
Yellow-bellied Chat-Tyrant (Silvicultrix diadema)
Streak-throated Bush-Tyrant (Myiotheretes striaticollis)
Smoky Bush-Tyrant (Myiotheretes fumigatus)
Long-tailed Tyrant (Colonia colonus)
Dusky-capped Flycatcher (Myiarchus tuberculifer)
Pale-edged Flycatcher (Myiarchus cephalotes)
Boat-billed Flycatcher (Megarynchus pitangua)
Social Flycatcher (Myiozetetes similis)
Lemon-browed Flycatcher (Conopias cinchoneti)
Streaked Flycatcher (Myiodynastes maculatus)
Baird's Flycatcher (Myiodynastes bairdii) - We found a small (family?) group in very dry forest near El Empalme.
Golden-crowned Flycatcher (Myiodynastes chrysocephalus)
Tropical Kingbird (Tyrannus melancholicus)
Barred Becard (Pachyramphus versicolor)
Slaty Becard (Pachyramphus spodiurus) - We saw two males at Jorupe. They give an odd tail-spreading display when responding to playback.
Black-and-white Becard (Pachyramphus albogriseus)
One-colored Becard (Pachyramphus homochrous)
COTINGAS
Red-crested Cotinga (Ampelion rubrocristata)
Barred Fruiteater (Pipreola arcuata)
Green-and-black Fruiteater (Pipreola riefferii)
Amazonian Umbrellabird (Cephalopterus ornatus) - A tree full of them at Río Bombuscaro! One of the memorable sights of this trip.
Andean Cock-of-the-rock (Rupicola peruviana)
MANAKINS
Golden-winged Manakin (Masius chrysopterus) - One male at Tandayapa, another at Buenaventura.
CROWS, JAYS, AND MAGPIES
Turquoise Jay (Cyanolyca turcosa)
White-tailed Jay (Cyanocorax mystacalis) - A beautiful, albeit noisy, Tumbesian endemic. We saw it several times in and around Jorupe.
Inca Jay (Cyanocorax yncas)
VIREOS, PEPPERSHRIKES, AND SHRIKE-VIREOS
Rufous-browed Peppershrike (Cyclarhis gujanensis)
Red-eyed Vireo (Vireo olivaceus)
Brown-capped Vireo (Vireo leucophrys)
Lesser Greenlet (Hylophilus decurtatus)
Olivaceous Greenlet (Hylophilus olivaceus) - A dull bird with a variety of warbling songs. It was fairly common by voice along the old Loja-Zamora road but we only saw it once.
THRUSHES
Andean Solitaire (Myadestes ralloides)
Slaty-backed Nightingale-Thrush (Catharus fuscater) (H)
Swainson's Thrush (Catharus ustulatus)
Pale-eyed Thrush (Platycichla leucops)
Great Thrush (Turdus fuscater)
Glossy-black Thrush (Turdus serranus)
Chestnut-bellied Thrush (Turdus fulviventris) (H)
Plumbeous-backed Thrush (Turdus reevei) - An attractive thrush, and another Tumbesian endemic. We only saw it in Jorupe on this trip.
Black-billed Thrush (Turdus ignobilis)
Ecuadorian Thrush (Turdus maculirostris) - Almost missed it, but finally scoped one up between Sozoranga and Sabiango.
Andean Slaty-Thrush (Turdus nigriceps) (H) - They must be nesting now. They sang rarely and were very inconspicuous, whereas a month earlier they seemed to be everywhere near Sozoranga.
MOCKINGBIRDS AND THRASHERS
Long-tailed Mockingbird (Mimus longicaudatus)
SWALLOWS AND MARTINS
Gray-breasted Martin (Progne chalybea)
Blue-and-white Swallow (Notiochelidon cyanoleuca)
Pale-footed Swallow (Notiochelidon flavipes) - A small flock was seen each evening at Tapichalaca, unfortunately the low light made it difficult.
White-banded Swallow (Atticora fasciata)
Southern Rough-winged Swallow (Stelgidopteryx ruficollis)
Chestnut-collared Swallow (Petrochelidon rufocollaris) - A large colony lives in Sozoranga, and we stopped to study a few individuals.
WRENS
Fasciated Wren (Campylorhynchus fasciatus) - Common and noisy but always fun to watch.
Rufous Wren (Cinnycerthia unirufa)
Sepia-brown Wren (Cinnycerthia olivascens)
Grass Wren (Cistothorus platensis) (H)
Bay Wren (Thryothorus nigricapillus)
Plain-tailed Wren (Thryothorus euophrys)
Whiskered Wren (Thryothorus mystacalis)
Speckle-breasted Wren (Thryothorus sclateri) - One or two seen in Jorupe. We also heard one near Valladolid that reprented the Marañon valley race.
House Wren (Troglodytes aedon)
Mountain Wren (Troglodytes solstitialis)
White-breasted Wood-Wren (Henicorhina leucosticta)
Gray-breasted Wood-Wren (Henicorhina leucophrys)
Song Wren (Cyphorhinus phaeocephalus) - We saw one in Buenaventura in exactly the same spot as the last time I was there in July. An amazingly scarce bird in Ecuador.
GNATCATCHERS AND GNATWRENS
Tropical Gnatcatcher (Polioptila plumbea)
NEW WORLD WARBLERS
Tropical Parula (Parula pitiayumi)
Blackburnian Warbler (Dendroica fusca)
Olive-crowned Yellowthroat (Geothlypis semiflava)
Canada Warbler (Wilsonia canadensis)
Slate-throated Whitestart (Myioborus miniatus)
Spectacled Whitestart (Myioborus melanocephalus)
Black-crested Warbler (Basileuterus nigrocristatus)
Citrine Warbler (Basileuterus luteoviridis)
Three-striped Warbler (Basileuterus tristriatus)
Three-banded Warbler (Basileuterus trifasciatus) - This species replaces the previous in southwestern Ecuador.
Russet-crowned Warbler (Basileuterus coronatus)
Gray-and-gold Warbler (Basileuterus fraseri) - An attractive bird seen in the deciduous forests of Puyango and Jorupe.
Buff-rumped Warbler (Basileuterus fulvicauda) (H)
TANAGERS, HONEYCREEPERS, BANANAQUIT
Bananaquit (Coereba flaveola)
Blue Dacnis (Dacnis cayana)
Black-faced Dacnis (Dacnis lineata)
Blue-backed Conebill (Conirostrum sitticolor)
Masked Flowerpiercer (Diglossopis cyanea)
Glossy Flowerpiercer (Diglossa lafresnayii)
Black Flowerpiercer (Diglossa humeralis)
White-sided Flowerpiercer (Diglossa albilatera)
Guira Tanager (Hemithraupis guira)
Rufous-chested Tanager (Thlypopsis ornata)
Fawn-breasted Tanager (Pipraeidea melanonota)
Thick-billed Euphonia (Euphonia laniirostris)
Orange-bellied Euphonia (Euphonia xanthogaster)
Bronze-green Euphonia (Euphonia mesochrysa) (H)
Orange-eared Tanager (Chlorochrysa calliparaea) - In good light this bird is stunning. We saw a few along the old Loja-Zamora road.
Rufous-throated Tanager (Tangara rufigula) - A pretty bird, but the fog was against us and I was the one who saw it in Buenaventura.
Golden Tanager (Tangara arthus)
Silver-throated Tanager (Tangara icterocephala)
Saffron-crowned Tanager (Tangara xanthocephala)
Golden-eared Tanager (Tangara chrysotis)
Flame-faced Tanager (Tangara parzudakii)
Golden-naped Tanager (Tangara ruficervix)
Metallic-green Tanager (Tangara labradorides)
Beryl-spangled Tanager (Tangara nigroviridis)
Blue-and-black Tanager (Tangara vassorii)
Black-capped Tanager (Tangara heinei)
Silver-backed Tanager (Tangara viridicollis) - A couple of birds at Utuana.
Blue-necked Tanager (Tangara cyanicollis)
Paradise Tanager (Tangara chilensis) - It doesn't matter if they're common, this is one that no one ever tires of seeing.
Green-and-gold Tanager (Tangara schrankii)
Spotted Tanager (Tangara punctata)
Bay-headed Tanager (Tangara gyrola)
Yellow-throated Tanager (Iridosornis analis) - An ever-so-brief view north of Valladolid.
Golden-crowned Tanager (Iridosornis rufivertex) - Another spectacular tanager. We saw a few with a mixed flock in Cajanuma.
Scarlet-bellied Mountain-Tanager (Anisognathus igniventris)
Lacrimose Mountain-Tanager (Anisognathus lacrymosus)
Blue-winged Mountain-Tanager (Anisognathus somptuosus)
Hooded Mountain-Tanager (Buthraupis montana)
Buff-breasted Mountain-Tanager (Dubusia taeniata)
Grass-green Tanager (Chlorornis riefferii)
Rufous-crested Tanager (Creurgops verticalis)
Swallow Tanager (Tersina viridis)
Blue-gray Tanager (Thraupis episcopus)
Palm Tanager (Thraupis palmarum)
Blue-capped Tanager (Thraupis cyanocephala)
Silver-beaked Tanager (Ramphocelus carbo)
Lemon-rumped Tanager (Ramphocelus icteronotus)
Highland Hepatic-Tanager (Piranga flava)
Summer Tanager (Piranga rubra)
White-winged Tanager (Piranga leucoptera)
Red-hooded Tanager (Piranga rubriceps) - A pair was waiting for us when we stepped out of the car at Cajanuma. Beautiful.
Ochre-breasted Tanager (Chlorothraupis stolzmanni) (H)
White-lined Tanager (Tachyphonus rufus)
Common Bush-Tanager (Chlorospingus ophthalmicus)
Ashy-throated Bush-Tanager (Chlorospingus canigularis)
Dusky Bush-Tanager (Chlorospingus semifuscus) - A Chocó endemic that is very common in the upper Tandayapa Valley.
Yellow-throated Bush-Tanager (Chlorospingus flavigularis)
Gray-hooded Bush-Tanager (Cnemoscopus rubrirostris)
Black-capped Hemispingus (Hemispingus atropileus)
Black-eared Hemispingus (Hemispingus melanotis)
Western Hemispingus (Hemispingus ochraceus) (H)
Piura Hemispingus (Hemispingus piurae) - Another species that barely crosses the border from Peru. A pair came in like missles to the tape at Utuana. My favorite hemispingus.
Black-and-white Tanager (Conothraupis speculigera) (H) - Calling, but not responsive. I was sorry to have missed this one.
Magpie Tanager (Cissopis leveriana)
SALTATORS, GROSBEAKS, AND CARDINALS
Buff-throated Saltator (Saltator maximus)
Black-winged Saltator (Saltator atripennis)
Grayish Saltator (Saltator coerulescens)
Black-cowled Saltator (Saltator nigriceps) - A nice bird resticted to the Tumbesian highlands. We had to wait for the fog to blow off before finally having a clear view in the mountains west of Catamayo.
Streaked Saltator (Saltator striatipectus)
Southern Yellow-Grosbeak (Pheucticus chrysogaster)
EMBERIZINE FINCHES
Blue-black Grassquit (Volatinia jacarina)
Dull-colored Grassquit (Tiaris obscura)
Variable Seedeater (Sporophila corvina)
Black-and-white Seedeater (Sporophila luctuosa)
Yellow-bellied Seedeater (Sporophila nigricollis)
Drab Seedeater (Sporophila simplex) - A small flock of this dull but restricted-range finch near the airport at Catamayo.
Chestnut-throated Seedeater (Sporophila telasco)
Chestnut-bellied Seedeater (Sporophila castaneiventris)
Blue Seedeater (Amaurospiza concolor) - A surprising sighting of a singing female-plumaged bird  in the mountains west of Catamayo. I would not have expected females of this species to sing, so perhaps it was an immature male?
Ash-breasted Sierra-Finch (Phrygilus plebejus)
Band-tailed Sierra-Finch (Phrygilus alaudinus)
Saffron Finch (Sicalis flaveola)
Rufous-naped Brush-Finch (Atlapetes latinuchus) - We saw a pair of race spodionotus in the upper Tandayapa Valley, and many of race latinuchus in the southeast. A potential split.
Tricolored Brush-Finch (Atlapetes tricolor)
White-winged Brush-Finch (Atlapetes leucopterus) - A stunning bird responded to playback near Sozoranga. This is the race dresseri.
White-headed Brush-Finch (Atlapetes albiceps) - A pair perched very un-brushfinch-like on the top of a tree in the dry forest near El Empalme.
Chestnut-capped Brush-Finch (Buarremon brunneinuchus)
Stripe-headed Brush-Finch (Buarremon torquatus)
Tanager Finch (Oreothraupis arremonops) - Extreme close-ups of a singing bird along the road in the upper Tandayapa Valley. This is always a nice bird to see. Striking as well as rare, local, and endangered.
Orange-billed Sparrow (Arremon aurantiirostris)
Black-capped Sparrow (Arremon abeillei) - We saw this in deciduous forest understory in Puyango and near El Empalme. A very pretty sparrow restricted to the Tumbesian region and the dry parts of the Marañon Valley.
Black-striped Sparrow (Arremonops conirostris)
Yellow-browed Sparrow (Ammodramus aurifrons)
Tumbes Sparrow (Aimophila stolzmanni) - We finally saw a pair in extremely dry, barren terrain near Catamayo.
Rufous-collared Sparrow (Zonotrichia capensis)
AMERICAN ORIOLES AND BLACKBIRDS
Yellow-rumped Cacique (Cacicus cela)
Northern Mountain-Cacique (Cacicus leucoramphus)
Subtropical Cacique (Cacicus uropygialis)
Crested Oropendola (Psarocolius decumanus)
Russet-backed Oropendola (Psarocolius angustifrons)
Shiny Cowbird (Molothrus bonariensis)
Giant Cowbird (Scaphidura oryzivora)
Scrub Blackbird (Dives warszewiczi)
White-edged Oriole (Icterus graceannae) - We saw a few in and near the Jorupe reserve.
Yellow-tailed Oriole (Icterus mesomelas)
Peruvian Meadowlark (Sturnella bellicosa)
CARDUELINE FINCHES
Saffron Siskin (Carduelis siemiradzkii) - Jim and Hardy saw a few in Guayaquil before they flew to Quito, then we saw a few more between Catamayo and Loja.
Olivaceous Siskin (Carduelis olivacea)

MAMMALS:
Black (?) Agouti - This is presumable the agouti we saw between Catamayo and Zaruma, but according to the field guide no agoutis occur here...
Hoffmann's Two-toed Sloth - The best look any of us have ever had at a sloth! One was low down next to the trail in Buenaventura.
Tayra - One crossed the road in front of us, but I can't remember exactly where...