8 –
David Nkosi, Benji Schwartz, Josh Engel
Text and photos by Josh Engel; all photos taken
on this trip

The areas
of Bushmanland and
8 December,
The trip
got off to an auspicious start, with great birding along the drive north from
Blouberg to our first destination, the famous wader-watching site,
Veldriff. We hardly stopped en route,
yet we managed to see four outstanding raptors—the magnificent endemic Black
Harrier, Verreaux’s Eagle, the lovely Jackal Buzzard, and
Booted Eagle. We were greeted upon
arrival in Veldriff with one of our main targets for the site, the localized Chestnut-banded
Plover. We quickly added a wide
variety of shorebirds, but not the recently reported Red-necked Phalarope. That was quickly forgotten, however, when we
discovered two Common Redshanks nearby!
This is a very rare species in
After
Veldriff, we were off to the northeast, heading towards Bushmanland. The drive from the main highway to Calvinia,
where we spent our first night, was outstanding. The scenery was spectacular and unique, and
the birding was fabulous. We found our
first bustards for the trip, Ludwig’s, sharing a roadside field with the
stately Blue Crane. A stop at a
riparian area yielded obliging pairs of Namaqua Warblers, Pririt
Batis and Chestnut-vented Tit-babblers. We also found our first Greater
Kestrel and a variety of birds that would be very common for the remainder
of the trip, including Lark-like Bunting, Spike-heeled Lark, and
a variety of chats. On our first day
we saw 11 species of raptors!
9 December,
Calvinia to Brandvlei
We left
early to visit a nearby nature reserve.
The scenery was stunning, and we found our first Long-billed Crombec,
Rufous-eared Warbler, White-backed Mousebird, and Pied Barbet
of the trip, as well as a beautiful Smith’s red rock hare. The rest of the day was spent on the road
between Calvinia and Brandvlei and around Brandvlei. This whole region features spectacular
roadside birding.
We soon
came across a large flock of larks around the road that included our first Gray-backed
Sparrowlarks and a few others. We
then found a large flock of the highly sought Black-eared Sparrowlark,
with almost all of the birds in female-type plumage. They had apparently been hanging around that
area for a while, as we found several dead ones along the road where the flock
was hanging out. We would continue to
see small groups of Black-eared Sparrowlarks throughout the morning—and
then not see a single one the rest of the trip!
Remarkably, on the fringe of this flock, in a barren, rocky area was a Sclater’s
Lark, one of the real specialties of this area. It sat long enough for us to get scope looks
before flying off.
In the
afternoon we had our first attempt for Red Lark, one of the main specialties
around Brandvlei. We missed it today,
but fortunately our next two attempts for the species were successful. A stop by a not-quite-dry waterway yielded
our only Southern Gray-headed Sparrow of the trip, along with our first
good views (of many!) of Namaqua Sandgrouse, and dozens of nesting South
African Cliff Swallows. A scrubby
area yielded, incredibly, both Yellow-bellied and the difficult Karoo
Eremomelas. We also saw our first



From left: 'dunes' form Red Lark; Scaly-feathered Finch; Gray-backed
Sparrowlark
10 December,
Brandvlei to Pofadder
We left
Brandvlei early to try for the browner, plains form of Red Lark. It wasn’t easy, but eventually we found a
cracking adult and juvenile. We also
found a small group of Cape Penduline Tits in the same area.
After the Red
Lark success, we drove slowly north towards Kenhardt, stopping at various
farm dams and acacia patches along the way.
It was at these farm dams that we first got a taste of just how abundant
Lark-like Buntings and Gray-backed Sparrowlarks were going to be
for the rest of the trip. As we were
sitting watching dozens of birds drinking, a couple of strange-looking larks
showed up. As we watched them, it dawned
on us—Stark’s Larks! We got
fabulous views of this highly nomadic species as it came to drink in the heat
of the day. We also found our first Sabota
Lark of the trip, of the large-billed western form that is sometimes split
as Bradfield’s Lark, singing from a fencepost. Bustards were numerous along this road, and
we saw
We
continued north towards Kenhardt, soon coming across our first of many
impressive Sociable Weaver nests and their accompanying weavers. One of the nests had a pair of wonderful African
Pygmy Falcons, which nest in the weavers’ great abodes (see photos
below). Kenhardt itself held three
new birds for the trip—Cape Glossy Starling, Karoo Thrush, and Greater
Scimitarbill.



From left: Sociable Weavers drinking at a farm dam; incredible collection
of Sociable Weaver nests; Pygmy Falcons nest in Sociable Weaver nests
The drive
to Pofadder was hot and dusty, broken up by farm dams that featured Red-headed
and Scaly-feathered Finches and Red-billed Quelea among the
abundant buntings, larks, and canaries, Sabota Lark, all of the expected chats
and wheatears, and abundant Chat Flycatchers. We found a cooperative pair of Spotted
Eagle-Owls near Pofadder on a night drive, but not the desired aardvark.
11 December,
around Pofadder
We started
out driving southwest out of Pofadder, stopping at farm dams to check out and
photograph the abundant buntings, larks, canaries, and Namaqua
Sandgrouse. A beautiful female Short-toed
Rock-Thrush was in a rocky area, and we were surprised to find a Neddicky
nearby. We reached the red dunes well
after the Red Larks had stopped singing, but fortunately we were able to
find one anyway—it even posed for photos!
Driving further down this road yielded a pair of Stark’s Larks.
We passed
the heat of the day in Pofadder, then returned to the
field in the late afternoon, choosing to go in a different direction from the
morning. After watching the incredible
sight of 1000 Lark-like Buntings around a single pond, we continued down
the road, where we had cracking looks at a Cape Clapper Lark. A short while later we came across two adult
and one juvenile Burchell’s Coursers in an open field, getting great
looks at this uncommon bird. As it got
towards evening, we found an aardwolf, a bizarre, jackal-like animal
that almost exclusively eats termites, as well as a bat-eared fox.
12 December,
Pofadder to Ai-Ais,
We headed north of Pofadder on our way into
The birding
was even better when we reached the lush vegetation and agriculture around the
The drive
to Ai-Ais from the border was too hot for birds to be active, but we did find
an incredible impressive set of Sociable Weaver nests in a large tree,
and three magnificent Black-chested Snake-Eagles.
We arrived
at the lush and birdy surroundings of Ai-Ais, in


13 December,
We began
the morning around Ai-Ais, where a large group of Bradfield’s Swifts
were flying around the river valley, Little Bitterns were active in the
reedbeds, and a beautiful pair of Verreaux’s Eagles
were soaring over the campgrounds.
We then headed towards another campground in the park, stopping to watch
a Klipsringer, a small, rock dwelling antelope.
The other campground was also lush, with a small river running through
it from which many birds were drinking, and lots of birds everywhere. We found Greater Scimitarbill, a
migrant Spotted Flycatcher, and Brubru among the abundant
canaries, buntings, sparrows, and others.
Karoo Scrub-Robins and Bokmakierie were practically tame
here, and we were able to get great views of all the birds drinking and
bathing.
After
absorbing the stunning view of the canyon, we began the drive south back to
We then
headed to a nearby pan where Damara Terns breed. And breeding they were, we quickly found the
terns (and nearly 100 White-fronted Plovers!), including two nests with
juveniles. This area seems completely
unprotected (there were tire tracks right between the nests, and there was
nothing to stop us from driving to the nests) and these birds are highly
vulnerable to disturbance. Formal
protection of this important nesting area is warranted immediately.



From left: Damara Tern on a nest; western rock elephant shrew; Rufous-eared
Warbler was common throughout the trip
14 December,
Springbok to
After
spending the previous night in Springbok, we began heading south towards
We then
went to Lambert’s Bay, where one of the world’s great avian spectacles is
permanently on display: a huge gannet colony.
In this case it is thousands of pairs of
We then
headed south, sticking to the smaller coastal roads. At a pan near Eland’s Bay we found several Chestnut-banded
Plovers, while the marshes near Eland’s Bay were full of shorebirds,
waders, and ducks, including Hottentot Teal and African Spoonbill. A stop at a coastal lagoon south of Eland’s
Bay yielded our first Greater Flamingos for the trip, as well as Southern
Pochard, Maccoa Duck, African Marsh Harrier, and about 15 Marsh
Sandpipers. We completed the loop by
stopping at Veldriff, where the trip had begun, and in a similar fashion—no
Red-necked Phalarope! We did, however,
see about 100 White-winged Terns, of which there were
zero the first time around.
Complete bird and mammal list:
|
|
Southern
African Checklist |
|
|
|
Endemics in bold / Near endemics in italics |
|
|
|
Roberts VII |
Scientific Name |
|
1 |
Common
Ostrich |
Struthio
camelus |
|
2 |
Great
Crested Grebe |
Podiceps
cristatus |
|
3 |
Black-necked
Grebe |
Podiceps
nigricollis |
|
4 |
Little
Grebe (Dabchick) |
Tachybaptus
ruficollis |
|
5 |
Great
White Pelican |
Pelecanus
onocrotalus |
|
6 |
|
Morus
capensis |
|
7 |
White-breasted
Cormorant |
Phalacrocorax
lucidus |
|
8 |
|
Phalacrocorax
capensis |
|
9 |
Long-tailed
Cormorant |
Phalacrocorax
africanus |
|
10 |
Crowned
Cormorant |
Phalacrocorax
coronatus |
|
11 |
African
Darter |
Anhinga
rufa |
|
12 |
Grey Heron |
Ardea
cinerea |
|
13 |
Black-headed
Heron |
Ardea
melanocephala |
|
14 |
Purple
Heron |
Ardea
purpurea |
|
15 |
Great
White Egret |
Casmerodius
albus |
|
16 |
Little
Egret |
Egretta
garzetta |
|
17 |
Cattle
Egret |
Bubulcus
ibis |
|
18 |
Little
Bittern |
Ixobrychus
minutus |
|
19 |
Hamerkop |
Scopus
umbretta |
|
20 |
Sacred
Ibis |
Threskiornis
aethiopicus |
|
21 |
Glossy
Ibis |
Plegadis
falcinellus |
|
22 |
Hadeda
Ibis |
Bostrychia
hagedash |
|
23 |
African
Spoonbill |
Platalea
alba |
|
24 |
Greater
Flamingo |
Phoenicopterus
ruber |
|
25 |
Lesser
Flamingo |
Phoenicopterus
minor |
|
26 |
Egyptian
Goose |
Alopochen
aegyptiacus |
|
27 |
South
African Shelduck |
Tadorna
cana |
|
28 |
Yellow-billed
Duck |
Anas
undulata |
|
29 |
|
Anas
capensis |
|
30 |
Hottentot
Teal |
Anas
hottentota |
|
31 |
Red-billed
Teal |
Anas
erythrorhyncha |
|
32 |
|
Anas
smithii |
|
33 |
Southern
Pochard |
Netta
erythrophthalma |
|
34 |
Spur-winged
Goose |
Plectropterus
gambensis |
|
35 |
Maccoa
Duck |
Oxyura
maccoa |
|
36 |
Yellow-billed
Kite |
Milvus
parasitus |
|
37 |
Black-shouldered
Kite |
Elanus
caeruleus |
|
38 |
Verreaux's
(Black) Eagle |
|
|
39 |
Booted
Eagle |
Hieraaetus
pennatus |
|
40 |
Martial
Eagle |
Polemaetus
bellicosus |
|
41 |
Black-breasted
Snake Eagle |
Circaetus
pectoralis |
|
42 |
Common
(Steppe) Buzzard |
Buteo
buteo |
|
43 |
Jackal
Buzzard |
Buteo
rufofuscus |
|
44 |
Pale
Chanting Goshawk |
Melierax
canorus |
|
45 |
African
Marsh Harrier |
Circus
ranivorus |
|
46 |
Black
Harrier |
Circus
maurus |
|
47 |
Osprey |
Pandion
haliaetus |
|
48 |
African
Pygmy Falcon |
Polihierax
semitorquatus |
|
49 |
Lanner
Falcon |
Falco biarmicus |
|
50 |
Rock
Kestrel |
Falco
tinnunculus |
|
51 |
Greater
Kestrel |
Falco
rupicoloides |
|
52 |
|
Francolinus
capensis |
|
53 |
Blue
Crane |
Anthropoides
paradiseus |
|
54 |
Purple
Swamphen |
Porphyrio
madagascariensis |
|
55 |
Common Moorhen |
Gallinula
chloropus |
|
56 |
Red-knobbed
Coot |
Fulica
cristata |
|
57 |
Ludwig's
Bustard |
Neotis
ludwigii |
|
58 |
|
Eupodotis
vigorsii |
|
59 |
Southern
Black Korhaan |
Eupodotis
afra |
|
60 |
Northern
Black Korhaan |
Eupodotis
afraoides |
|
61 |
Common
Ringed Plover |
Charadrius
hiaticula |
|
62 |
White-fronted
Plover |
Charadrius
marginatus |
|
63 |
Chestnut-banded
Plover |
Charadrius
pallidus |
|
64 |
Kittlitz's
Plover |
Charadrius
pecuarius |
|
65 |
Three-banded
Plover |
Charadrius
tricollaris |
|
66 |
Grey
(Black-bellied) Plover |
Pluvialis
squatarola |
|
67 |
Crowned
Plover |
Vanellus
coronatus |
|
68 |
Blacksmith
Plover |
Vanellus
armatus |
|
69 |
Ruddy
Turnstone |
Arenaria
interpres |
|
70 |
Wood
Sandpiper |
Tringa
glareola |
|
71 |
Marsh
Sandpiper |
Tringa
stagnatilis |
|
72 |
Common
Redshank |
Tringa
totanus |
|
73 |
Common
Greenshank |
Tringa
nebularia |
|
74 |
Curlew
Sandpiper |
Calidris
ferruginea |
|
75 |
Little
Stint |
Calidris
minuta |
|
76 |
Ruff |
Philomachus
pugnax |
|
77 |
Eurasian
Curlew |
Numenius
arquata |
|
78 |
Whimbrel |
Numenius
phaeopus |
|
79 |
Pied
Avocet |
Recurvirostra
avosetta |
|
80 |
Black-winged
Stilt |
Himantopus
himantopus |
|
81 |
Burchell's
Courser |
Cursorius
rufus |
|
82 |
Double-banded
Courser |
Smutsornis
africanus |
|
83 |
Kelp Gull |
Larus
dominicanus |
|
84 |
Grey-headed
Gull |
Larus
cirrocephalus |
|
85 |
Hartlaub's
Gull |
Larus
hartlaubii |
|
86 |
Caspian
Tern |
Sterna
caspia |
|
87 |
Swift
(Greater Crested) Tern |
Sterna
bergii |
|
88 |
|
Sterna
sandvicensis |
|
89 |
Common
Tern |
Sterna
hirundo |
|
90 |
Damara
Tern |
Sterna
balaenarum |
|
91 |
White-winged
Tern |
Chlidonias
leucopterus |
|
92 |
Namaqua
Sandgrouse |
Pterocles
namaqua |
|
93 |
Feral
(Rock) Pigeon |
Columba
livia |
|
94 |
Speckled
Pigeon |
Columba
guinea |
|
95 |
|
Streptopelia
capicola |
|
96 |
Laughing
(Palm) Dove |
Streptopelia
senegalensis |
|
97 |
Namaqua
Dove |
Oena
capensis |
|
98 |
Rosy-faced
Lovebird |
Agapornis
roseicollis |
|
99 |
Spotted
Eagle Owl |
Bubo
africanus |
|
100 |
Freckled
Nightjar |
Caprimulgus
tristigma |
|
101 |
Bradfield's
Swift |
Apus
bradfieldi |
|
102 |
African
Black Swift |
Apus
barbatus |
|
103 |
Common
Swift |
Apus
apus |
|
104 |
White-rumped
Swift |
Apus
caffer |
|
105 |
Little
Swift |
Apus
affinis |
|
106 |
Alpine
Swift |
Tachymarptis
melba |
|
107 |
African
Palm Swift |
Cypsiurus
parvus |
|
108 |
White-backed
Mousebird |
Colius
colius |
|
109 |
Red-faced
Mousebird |
Urocolius
indicus |
|
110 |
Pied
Kingfisher |
Ceryle
rudis |
|
111 |
Malachite
Kingfisher |
Alcedo
cristata |
|
112 |
European
Bee-eater |
Merops
apiaster |
|
113 |
Swallow-tailed
Bee-eater |
Merops
hirundineus |
|
114 |
Greater
Scimitarbill |
Rhinopomastus
cyanomelas |
|
115 |
Pied
Barbet |
Tricholaema
leucomelas |
|
116 |
Cardinal
Woodpecker |
Dendropicos
fuscescens |
|
117 |
|
Mirafra
apiata |
|
118 |
Sabota
Lark |
Mirafra
sabota |
|
119 |
Cape
Long-billed Lark |
Certhilauda
curvirostris |
|
120 |
|
Certhilauda
subcoronata |
|
121 |
|
Certhilauda
albescens |
|
122 |
Barlow's
Lark |
Certhilauda
barlowi |
|
123 |
Red
Lark |
Certhilauda
burra |
|
124 |
Spike-heeled
Lark |
Chersomanes
albofasciata |
|
125 |
Red-capped
Lark |
Calandrella
cinerea |
|
126 |
Stark's
Lark |
Eremalauda
starki |
|
127 |
Sclater's
Lark |
Spizocorys
scateri |
|
128 |
Large-billed
Lark |
Galerida
magnirostris |
|
129 |
Grey-backed
Sparrowlark |
Eremopterix
verticalis |
|
130 |
Black-eared
Sparrowlark |
Eremopterix
australis |
|
131 |
Barn
(European) Swallow |
Hirundo
rustica |
|
132 |
White-throated
Swallow |
Hirundo
albigularis |
|
133 |
Pearl-breasted
Swallow |
Hirundo
dimidiata |
|
134 |
Greater
Striped Swallow |
Hirundo
cucullata |
|
135 |
South
African Cliff Swallow |
Hirundo
spilodera |
|
136 |
Rock
Martin |
Hirundo
fuligula |
|
137 |
Brown-throated
(Plain) Martin |
Riparia
paludicola |
|
138 |
Black ( |
Corvus
capensis |
|
139 |
Pied Crow |
Corvus
albus |
|
140 |
White-necked
Raven |
Corvus
albicollis |
|
141 |
Southern
Grey Tit |
Parus
afer |
|
142 |
|
Anthoscopus
minutus |
|
143 |
|
Pycnonotus
capensis |
|
144 |
African
Red-eyed Bulbul |
Pycnonotus
nigricans |
|
145 |
|
Turdus
smithii |
|
146 |
Short-toed
Rock Thrush |
Monticola
brevipes |
|
147 |
Mountain
Wheatear |
Oenanthe
monticola |
|
148 |
Capped
Wheatear |
Oenanthe
pileata |
|
149 |
Familiar
Chat |
Cercomela
familiaris |
|
150 |
Tractrac
Chat |
Cercomela
tractrac |
|
151 |
Sickle-winged
Chat |
Cercomela
sinuata |
|
152 |
|
Cercomela
schlegelii |
|
153 |
Southern
Anteating Chat |
Myrmecocichla
formicivora |
|
154 |
Common
Stonechat |
Saxicola
torquata |
|
155 |
Cape
Robin-chat |
Cossypha
caffra |
|
156 |
|
Erythropygia
coryphaeus |
|
157 |
Chestnut-vented
Tit-babbler |
Parisoma
subcaeruleum |
|
158 |
Layard's
Tit-babbler |
Parisoma
layardi |
|
159 |
African
Marsh (Reed) Warbler |
Acrocephalus
baeticatus |
|
160 |
Long-billed
Crombec |
Sylvietta
rufescens |
|
161 |
Yellow-bellied
Eremomela |
Eremomela
icteropygialis |
|
162 |
|
Eremomela
gregalis |
|
163 |
Cinnamon-breasted
Warbler |
Euryptila
subcinnamomea |
|
164 |
Fan-tailed
(Zitting) Cisticola |
Cisticola
juncidis |
|
165 |
Grey-backed
Cisticola |
Cisticola
subruficapillus |
|
166 |
Levaillant's
Cisticola |
Cisticola
tinniens |
|
167 |
Neddicky
(Piping Cisticola) |
Cisticola
fulvicapillus |
|
168 |
|
Prinia
maculosa |
|
169 |
Blackchested
Prinia |
Prinia
flavicans |
|
170 |
Namaqua
Warbler |
Phragmacia
substriata |
|
171 |
Rufous-eared
Warbler |
Malcorus
pectoralis |
|
172 |
Spotted
Flycatcher |
Muscicapa
striata |
|
173 |
Fiscal
Flycatcher |
Sigelus
silens |
|
174 |
Chat
Flycatcher |
Melaenornis
infuscatus |
|
175 |
Pririt
Batis |
Batis
pririt |
|
176 |
African
Pied Wagtail |
Motacilla
aguimp |
|
177 |
|
Motacilla
capensis |
|
178 |
African
Pipit (Grassveld Pipit) |
Anthus
cinnamomeus |
|
179 |
Common
Fiscal |
Lanius
collaris |
|
180 |
Brubru |
Nilaus
afer |
|
181 |
Bokmakierie |
Telophorus
zeylonus |
|
182 |
European
Starling |
Sturnus
vulgaris |
|
183 |
African
Pied Starling |
Spreo
bicolor |
|
184 |
Wattled
Starling |
Creatophora
cinerea |
|
185 |
|
Lamprotornis
nitens |
|
186 |
Red-winged
Starling |
Onychognathus
morio |
|
187 |
Pale-winged
Starling |
Onychognathus
nabouroup |
|
188 |
Lesser
DC Sunbird |
Nectarinia
chalybea |
|
189 |
Dusky
Sunbird |
Nectarinia
fusca |
|
190 |
|
Zosterops
pallidus |
|
191 |
House
Sparrow |
Passer
domesticus |
|
192 |
|
Passer
melanurus |
|
193 |
S.
Grey-headed Sparrow |
Passer
diffusus |
|
194 |
Scaly-feathered
Finch |
Sporopipes
squamifrons |
|
195 |
Sociable
Weaver |
Philetairus
socius |
|
196 |
|
Ploceus
capensis |
|
197 |
Southern
Masked Weaver |
Ploceus
velatus |
|
198 |
Red-billed
Quelea |
Quelea
quelea |
|
199 |
Red Bishop |
Euplectes
orix |
|
200 |
Common
Waxbill |
Estrilda
astrild |
|
201 |
Red-headed
Finch |
Amadina
erythrocephala |
|
202 |
Pin-tailed
Whydah |
Vidua
macroura |
|
203 |
Black-throated
Canary |
Serinus
atrogularis |
|
204 |
Black-headed
Canary |
Serinus
alario |
|
205 |
Damara
Canary |
Serinus
leucolaema |
|
206 |
Yellow
Canary |
Serinus
flaviventris |
|
207 |
White-throated
Canary |
Serinus
albogularis |
|
208 |
|
Emberiza
capensis |
|
209 |
Lark-like
Bunting |
Emberiza
impetuani |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
MAMMALS
SPECIES |
|
|
1 |
Chacma
baboon |
Papio
ursinus |
|
2 |
Western
rock elephant shrew |
Elephantulus
rupestris |
|
3 |
Scrub
hare |
Lepus
saxatilis |
|
4 |
Smith's
red rock hare |
Pronolagus
rupestris |
|
5 |
South African
ground squirrel |
Geosciurus
inauris |
|
6 |
Brant's
whistling-rat |
Parotomys
brantsii |
|
7 |
Four-striped
grass-mouse |
Rhabdomys
pumilio |
|
8 |
Bat-eared
Fox |
Otocyon
megalotis |
|
9 |
Small ( |
Herpestes
pulverulenta |
|
10 |
Yellow
Mongoose |
Cynictis
pencillata |
|
11 |
Meerkat
(Suricate) |
Suricata
suricata |
|
12 |
Aardwolf |
Proteles
cristata |
|
13 |
|
Procavia
capensis |
|
14 |
Steinbuck |
Raphicerus
campestris |
|
15 |
Klipspringer |
Oreotragus
oreotragus |
|
16 |
Springbuck |
Antidorcus
marsupialis |
|
17 |
Black
wildebeest |
Connochaetes
gnou |
|
|
|