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Southern Ecuador - March 2005
Tour Leader: José Illanes
12 - 28th March 2005
Day 1. We met up at our hotel in Guayaquil and enjoyed a welcome dinner.
Day 2. The tour started at Cerro Blanco, and area of dry forest close to Guayaquil. A Collared Forest-Falcon was calling on our arrival, and provided us with a great start as it came in and perched in a dead tree, almost rivalled by the great views of Elegant Crescentchest that came shortly afterwards. Grey-cheeked Parakeet, Crimson-breasted Finch, Collared Antshrike, and Superciliated Wren were our first Tumbesian endemics, and Grey-and-gold Warblers serenaded us from the trails. After lunch we drove to the mangrove reserve at Manglares Churute, where Horned Screamers were perched in the distant treetops. Snail Kites and Savannah Hawks accompanied on our way to the wetlands at Santa Rosa. The pools were rather dry, but a White-throated Crake appeared from the reeds. Arriving in Zaruma in time for dinner, we checked in to our hotel.
Day 3. Buenaventura was our destination for the next two days, and our first morning started with some good mixed flocks which included Rufous-throated and Flamed-faced Tanagers and Line-cheeked Spinetail. The loud and enchanting Song Wren was eventually seen by everyone as two males duetted by the trail. We were treated to a Grey-backed Hawk and a Black Hawk-Eagle soaring overhead, and got good scope views of another Grey-backed Hawk sitting in a tree. In the afternoon we headed down to Umbrellabird Lodge, but our journey was interrupted by a singing Ochraceous Atilla along the entrance drive. At the lodge the hummingbird feeders were busy with Emerlad-bellied Woodnymph, Violet-bellied Hummingbird, Baron's Hermit, and Green-crowned Brilliant. In the forest our main target was the Long-wattled Umbrellabird, and a fine male complete with huge dangling wattle was well worth the muddy walk down.
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Day 4. El Oro Parakeet is a newly-described species known only from southern Ecuador, and one of the main reasons for the establishment of the Buenaventura reserve. We found a small group of these endangered parrots in a tree near the road and were able to watch their romantic antics. Another set of hummingbird feeders gave us even better views of the species we had seen at the lodge, and a Barred Hawk soared overhead. We began the long drive to El Empalme, leaving the humid forests behind and arriving in the dry woodlands mid-afternoon. Tumbes Pewee, Red-masked Parakeet, and Baird's Flycatcher reminded us that we had arrived firmly back in the realm of the Tumbesian species before we continued to the border town of Macará.
Day 5. The forest at Jorupe is dominated by the cartoon-like Ceiba trees, and is home to many rare and threatened species. The area has recently been acquired by the Jocotoco Foundation and its special bird life should now be protected. We could really appreciate the importance of the site as it seemed almost every other bird we found was a Tumbesian endemic: Pacific Elaenia, Henna-hooded Foliage-gleaner, Rufous-necked Foliage-gleaner, White-tailed Jay, Ecuadorian Trogon, and White-edged Oriole. We even found nests of two endangered species, Slaty Becard, and Blackish-headed Spinetail. After lunch we returned to El Empalme and picked up Tumbes Sparrow, Tumbes Hummingbird, and White-headed Brushfinch. Back at Macará, an after-dark excursion gave us superb views of two Spectacled Owls.
Day 6. Sozoranga was covered by fog, but there were some breaks, and one of the first birds we found was Black-cowled Saltator, followed Loja and Tumbesian Tyrannulet. A Watkins's Antpitta teased us from the undergrowth, but some people managed to get a view. Two Rufous-headed Chachalacas were waiting for us back at the car park, posing long enough for everyone to get a good look through the scope, and we finished off with a splendid male Great Antshrike. A short drive up the road took us to temperate forest at Utuana, another Jocotoco Foundation reserve. The dapper little Black-crested Tit-Tyrant entertained us here, while a Purple-throated Sunangel fed at flowering shrubs. A Chestnut-crowned Antpitta proved just as hard to see as the Watkins's earlier in the day, but it eventually showed itself to a few people.
Day 7. An early start took us back to a bamboo patch near to where we heard Grey-headed Antbird yesterday. This time the birds were more co-operative, and we got good views as they passed by, and even better views of two gorgeous Plushcaps that appeared immediately after. With the antbirds safely in the bag, we could concentrate on the Rusty-breasted Antpitta that had begun calling at the same time. It proved typically elusive, but we got several glimpses as it moved through, making for a great end to a superb morning. A second visit to Utuana rewarded us with Jelski's Chat-Tyrant, Stripe-headed and Bay-crowned Brushfinches, and Rainbow-fronted Starfrontlet. The journey to Vilcabamba was broken by stops near Catmayo where we found Chestnut-throated, Black-and-white, and Parrot-billed Seedeaters, Band-tailed Sierra-Finch, Tumbes Sparrow, and common open-country birds.
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Day 8. Up to the highlands at Cajanuma, where Red-hooded Tanagers, Pearled Treerunners, and Hooded Mountain-Tanagers were common in the mixed flocks, Grey-breasted Mountain-Toucan was calling from the low trees, and big groups of Pale-footed Swallows. The afternoon was spent relaxing by the hummingbird feeders at Tapichilaca, taking in one of the most stunning colours in the avian world, the glittering fiery orange throat patch of a Flame-throated Sunangel. Golden-plumed Parakeets were flying around the lodge and we did well to get a Bearded Guan scoped from the garden.
Day 9. The quest for the Jocotoco Antpitta began this morning. We were focussed on the ground birds, and saw Barred Antthrush, on the way. The antpitta began calling and we were treated to three brief views of this spectacular giant as two competing birds of this called to each other from opposite sides of the trail. A celebratory lunch back at the lodge followed, and during the heat of the day we drove to Valladolid. Scanning the treetops revealed a superb Chestnut-crested Cotinga, and as the temperature dropped mixed flocks began to appear, containing Grey-mantled Wren, and Silver-backed and Rufous-crested Tanagers.
Day 10. Yesterday's flocks were good, but this morning's were even better. Dusky Piha, Powerful Woodpecker, Northern Mountain-Cacique, and Strong-billed Woodcreeper were the highlights of the upper part of the road, and beyond Valladolid we found Marañon Thrush and Black-faced Tanager. We had lunch back on top of the ridge above Tapichilaca with a Mouse-coloured Thistletail for company. Our arrival at Copalinga lodge coincided with a lot of bird activity, and just around the cabins were Paradise Tanager, Masked Tanager, Yellow-tufted Woodpecker, Long-tailed Tyrant, Violet-fronted Brilliant, and Glittering-throated Emerald.
Day 11. Two Amazonian Umbrellabirds and a Sickle-winged Guan greeted us at Río Bombuscaro, and further along the trail were Orange- and Golden-eared Tanagers, Ecuadorian Tyrannulet, Ash-browed Spinetail. Heavy rain dampened the bird activity, so we tried the Yantzaza road, which seemed to be dripping with birds as much as with water: a Grey-breasted Crake emerged from the grasses; a Scaled Pigeon perched obligingly on a tree top; and a gorgeous male Yellow-cheeked Becard came in to investigate us.
Day 12. A long drive to Cuenca today, but not without some good birding breaks on the way. Along the old road to Loja a Cliff Flycatcher was hawking insects and an Andean Cock-of-the-rock was feasting in a fruiting tree, while a mixed flock gave us Olivaceous Greenlet, Coppery-chested Jacamar, Lemon-browed Flycatcher, and Dark-breasted Spinetail. Blackish and White-browed Antbirds called from the side of the road, and were both seen.
Day 13. Our morning in Cajas National Park was very productive. Besides the endemic Violet-throated Metaltail, we found Andean Tit-Spinetail, Mouse-coloured Thisteltail, Red-rumped Bush-Tyrant, White-capped Dipper, and a pair of Giant Conebills. At the end of the road we were able to compare Stout-billed and Bar-winged Cinclodes, while Tit-like Dacnises were all around. A pair of Ecuadorian Hillstars rounded off the morning, and we set off for Guayaquil where the main tour ended after final farewells to those who were not continuing on to the coast for the extension.
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Day 14. In the dry scrub near Ancón we were successful in our search for Necklaced Spinetail, Collared Antshrike, and Variable Hawk before we reached the coastal lagoons and their waterbirds. Brown and Peruvian Pelicans, Chilean Flamingos, were all big and obvious, and running about between them were lots of waders, including Collared Plover, Willet, and Wandering Tattler. After lunch we visited more pools, which were teeming with Grey-headed, Franklin's, and Laughing Gulls, and Sandwich and Royal Terns.
Day 15. If you want to see Esmeraldas Woodstar you have to go to Río Ayampe. We found a male and a female of this endangered hummingbird feeding at the same bush as the only slightly-less-rare Little Woodstar. This is not the only attraction here, and Northern Violaceous Jay and Guayaquil Woodpecker were welcome additions. By popular demand, the rest of the morning was spent by the pool at Manta Raya Lodge. In the afternoon we headed up to Aguas Blancas where Blue-crowned Motmot and West Peruvian Dove were common. Another night excursion provided everyone with good views of West Peruvian Screech-Owl.
Day 16. Our boat for Isla de la Plata left from Puerto Lopez, and on the journey we encountered Blue-footed Boobies and several Grey Phalaropes. Red-footed and Masked Boobies were on the rocks around the landing bay. Long-tailed Mockingbirds and Collared Warbling-Finches were hopping around near the buildings, and a walk along the trails gave us Red-billed Tropicbird.
Day 17. Our final morning around Manta Raya Lodge added a few new species (Red-billed Scythebill, Laughing Falcon, and Hook-billed Kite), before we stopped off at the lagoons to get more views of the waders and wildfowl. A last look in at Ancón finished the trip off with Short-tailed Field-Tyrant and Grey-and-white Tyrannulet. At the farewell dinner there was some competition, but Jocotoco Antpitta was voted the best of many memorable birds.
Bird List. This list only contains birds seen by at least one of the group: birds heard only or seen only by the leader are not included. Restricted-range species are in bold, globally-threatened species are in red.
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Pale-browed Tinamou |
Crypturellus transfasciatus |
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Least Grebe |
Tachybaptus dominicus |
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Pied-billed Grebe |
Podilymbus podiceps |
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Red-billed Tropicbird |
Phaethon aethereus |
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Magnificent Frigatebird |
Fregata magnificens |
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Blue-footed Booby |
Sula nebouxii |
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Nazca Booby |
Sula granti |
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Red-footed Booby |
Sula sula |
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Neotropic Cormorant |
Phalacrocorax brasilianus |
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Anhinga |
Anhinga anhinga |
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Brown Pelican |
Pelecanus occidentalis |
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Peruvian Pelican |
Pelecanus thagus |
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Horned Screamer |
Anhima cornuta |
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Black-bellied Whistling-Duck |
Dendrocygna autumnalis |
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Andean Teal |
Anas andium |
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White-cheeked Pintail |
Anas bahamensis |
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Yellow-billed Pintail |
Anas georgica |
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Andean Ruddy-Duck |
Oxyura ferruginea |
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Chilean Flamingo |
Phoenicopterus chilensis |
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Cocoi Heron |
Ardea cocoi |
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Great Egret |
Ardea alba |
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Snowy Egret |
Egretta thula |
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Tricolored Heron |
Egretta tricolor |
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Cattle Egret |
Bubulcus ibis |
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Striated Heron |
Butorides striatus |
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Black-crowned Night-Heron |
Nycticorax nycticorax |
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Yellow-crowned Night-Heron |
Nyctanassa violacea |
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Glossy Ibis |
Plegadis falcinellus |
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Black Vulture |
Coragyps atratus |
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Turkey Vulture |
Cathartes aura |
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Hook-billed Kite |
Chondrohierax uncinatus |
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Swallow-tailed Kite |
Elanoides forficatus |
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Pearl Kite |
Gampsonyx swainsonii |
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Snail Kite |
Rostrhamus sociabilis |
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Double-toothed Kite |
Harpagus bidentatus |
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Plumbeous Kite |
Ictinia plumbea |
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Plain-breasted Hawk |
Accipiter ventralis |
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Crane Hawk |
Geranospiza caerulescens |
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Gray-backed Hawk |
Leucopternis occidentalis |
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Barred Hawk |
Leucopternis princeps |
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Savanna Hawk |
Buteogallus meridionalis |
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Harris's Hawk |
Parabuteo unicinctus |
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Black-chested Buzzard-Eagle |
Geranoaetus melanoleucus |
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Gray Hawk |
Buteo nitidus |
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Roadside Hawk |
Buteo magnirostris |
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Variable Hawk |
Buteo polyosoma |
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Black Hawk-Eagle |
Spizaetus tyrannus |
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Black Caracara |
Daptrius ater |
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Northern Crested-Caracara |
Caracara cheriway |
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Collared Forest-Falcon |
Micrastur semitorquatus |
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Laughing Falcon |
Herpetotheres cachinnans |
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American Kestrel |
Falco sparverius |
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Bat Falcon |
Falco rufigularis |
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Peregrine Falcon |
Falco peregrinus |
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Rufous-headed Chachalaca |
Ortalis erythroptera |
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Bearded Guan |
Penelope barbata |
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Sickle-winged Guan |
Chamaepetes goudotii |
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Gray-breasted Crake |
Laterallus exilis |
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White-throated Crake |
Laterallus albigularis |
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Blackish Rail |
Pardirallus nigricans |
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Purple Gallinule |
Porphyrula martinica |
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Andean Coot |
Fulica ardesiaca |
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Limpkin |
Aramus guarauna |
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Wattled Jacana |
Jacana jacana |
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Greater Yellowlegs |
Tringa melanoleuca |
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Lesser Yellowlegs |
Tringa flavipes |
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Solitary Sandpiper |
Tringa solitaria |
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Willet |
Catoptrophorus semipalmatus |
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Wandering Tattler |
Heterosceles incanus |
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Spotted Sandpiper |
Actitis macularia |
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Whimbrel |
Numenius phaeopus |
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Ruddy Turnstone |
Arenaria interpres |
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Sanderling |
Calidris alba |
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Semipalmated Sandpiper |
Calidris pusilla |
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Western Sandpiper |
Calidris mauri |
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Least Sandpiper |
Calidris minutilla |
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Pectoral Sandpiper |
Calidris melanotos |
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Short-billed Dowitcher |
Limnodromus griseus |
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American Oystercatcher |
Haematopus palliatus |
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Black-necked Stilt |
Himantopus mexicanus |
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Gray Plover |
Pluvialis squatarola |
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American Golden-Plover |
Pluvialis dominica |
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Semipalmated Plover |
Charadrius semipalmatus |
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Wilson's Plover |
Charadrius wilsonia |
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Snowy Plover |
Charadrius alexandrinus |
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Collared Plover |
Charadrius collaris |
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Killdeer |
Charadrius vociferus |
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Kelp Gull |
Larus dominicanus |
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Gray-hooded Gull |
Larus cirrocephalus |
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Andean Gull |
Larus serranus |
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Laughing Gull |
Larus atricilla |
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Franklin's Gull |
Larus pipixcan |
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Gull-billed Tern |
Sterna nilotica |
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Royal Tern |
Sterna maxima |
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Sandwich Tern |
Sterna sandvicensis |
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Rock Pigeon |
Columba livia |
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Band-tailed Pigeon |
Columba fasciata |
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Scaled Pigeon |
Columba speciosa |
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Pale-vented Pigeon |
Columba cayennensis |
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Ruddy Pigeon |
Columba subvinacea |
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Plumbeous Pigeon |
Columba plumbea |
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Eared Dove |
Zenaida auriculata |
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West Peruvian Dove |
Zenaida meloda |
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Ecuadorian Ground-Dove |
Columbina buckleyi |
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Croaking Ground-Dove |
Columbina cruziana |
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Blue Ground-Dove |
Claravis pretiosa |
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White-tipped Dove |
Leptotila verreauxi |
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Pallid Dove |
Leptotila pallida |
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Red-masked Parakeet |
Aratinga erythrogenys |
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White-eyed Parakeet |
Aratinga leucophthalmus |
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Golden-plumed Parakeet |
Leptosittaca branickii |
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El Oro Parakeet |
Pyrrhura orcesi |
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Pacific Parrotlet |
Forpus coelestis |
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Gray-cheeked Parakeet |
Brotogeris pyrrhopterus |
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Blue-headed Parrot |
Pionus menstruus |
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Bronze-winged Parrot |
Pionus chalcopterus |
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Red-lored Amazon |
Amazona autumnalis |
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Scaly-naped Amazon |
Amazona mercenaria |
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Dark-billed Cuckoo |
Coccyzus melacoryphus |
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Gray-capped Cuckoo |
Coccyzus lansbergi |
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Squirrel Cuckoo |
Piaya cayana |
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Smooth-billed Ani |
Crotophaga ani |
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Groove-billed Ani |
Crotophaga sulcirostris |
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Striped Cuckoo |
Tapera naevia |
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West Peruvian Screech-Owl |
Otus roboratus |
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Pacific Pygmy-Owl |
Glaucidium peruanum |
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Burrowing Owl |
Athene cunicularia |
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Spectacled Owl |
Pulsatrix perspicillata |
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Anthony's Nightjar |
Caprimulgus anthonyi |
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White-collared Swift |
Streptoprocne zonaris |
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Chestnut-collared Swift |
Streptoprocne rutilus |
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Tumbes Swift |
Chaetura ocypetes |
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Gray-rumped Swift |
Chaetura cinereiventris |
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Lesser Swallow-tailed Swift |
Panyptila cayennensis |
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White-whiskered Hermit |
Phaethornis yaruqui |
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Green Hermit |
Phaethornis guy |
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Baron's Hermit |
Phaethornis baroni |
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White-necked Jacobin |
Florisuga mellivora |
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Brown Violet-ear |
Colibri delphinae |
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Green Violet-ear |
Colibri thalassinus |
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Sparkling Violet-ear |
Colibri coruscans |
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Green Thorntail |
Popelairia conversii |
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Fork-tailed Woodnymph |
Thalurania furcata |
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Green-crowned Woodnymph |
Thalurania fannyi |
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Emerald-bellied Woodnymph |
Thalurania hypochlora |
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Violet-bellied Hummingbird |
Damophila julie |
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Tumbes Hummingbird |
Leucippus baeri |
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Rufous-tailed Hummingbird |
Amazilia tzacatl |
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Amazilia Hummingbird |
Amazilia amazilia |
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Andean Emerald |
Amazilia franciae |
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Glittering-throated Emerald |
Amazilia fimbriata |
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Speckled Hummingbird |
Adelomyia melanogenys |
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Purple-bibbed Whitetip |
Urosticte benjamini |
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Ecuadorian Piedtail |
Phlogophilus hemileucurus |
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Green-crowned Brilliant |
Heliodoxa jacula |
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Violet-fronted Brilliant |
Heliodoxa leadbeateri |
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Fawn-breasted Brilliant |
Heliodoxa rubinoides |
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Ecuadorian Hillstar |
Oreotrochilus chimborazo |
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Shining Sunbeam |
Aglaeactis cupripennis |
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Mountain Velvetbreast |
Lafresnaya lafresnayi |
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Great Sapphirewing |
Pterophanes cyanopterus |
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Bronzy Inca |
Coeligena coeligena |
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Collared Inca |
Coeligena torquata |
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Buff-winged Starfrontlet |
Coeligena lutetiae |
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Rainbow Starfrontlet |
Coeligena iris |
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Chestnut-breasted Coronet |
Boissonneaua matthewsii |
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Amethyst-throated Sunangel |
Heliangelus amethysticollis |
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Flame-throated Sunangel |
Heliangelus micraster |
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Purple-throated Sunangel |
Heliangelus viola |
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Booted Racket-tail |
Ocreatus underwoodii |
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Black-tailed Trainbearer |
Lesbia victoriae |
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Violet-throated Metaltail |
Metallura baroni |
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Tyrian Metaltail |
Metallura tyrianthina |
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Rufous-capped Thornbill |
Chalcostigma ruficeps |
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Blue-mantled Thornbill |
Chalcostigma stanleyi |
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Long-tailed Sylph |
Aglaiocercus kingi |
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Violet-tailed Sylph |
Aglaiocercus coelestis |
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Wedge-billed Hummingbird |
Schistes geoffroyi |
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Long-billed Starthroat |
Heliomaster longirostris |
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Short-tailed Woodstar |
Myrmia micrura |
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Little Woodstar |
Chaetocercus bombus |
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Esmeraldas Woodstar |
Chaetocercus berlepschi |
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Ecuadorian Trogon |
Trogon mesurus |
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Masked Trogon |
Trogon personatus |
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Northern Violaceous Trogon |
Trogon caligatus |
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Ringed Kingfisher |
Megaceryle torquata |
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Green Kingfisher |
Chloroceryle americana |
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Blue-crowned Motmot |
Momotus momota |
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Coppery-chested Jacamar |
Galbula pastazae |
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Black-streaked Puffbird |
Malacoptila fulvogularis |
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Lanceolated Monklet |
Micromonacha lanceolata |
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Red-headed Barbet |
Eubucco bourcierii |
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Emerald Toucanet |
Aulacorhynchus prasinus |
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Crimson-rumped Toucanet |
Aulacorhynchus haematopygus |
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Pale-mandibled Araçari |
Pteroglossus erythropygius |
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Gray-breasted Mountain-Toucan |
Andigena hypoglauca |
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Chestnut-mandibled Toucan |
Ramphastos swainsonii |
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Lafresnaye's Piculet |
Picumnus lafresnayi |
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Ecuadorian Piculet |
Picumnus sclateri |
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Crimson-mantled Woodpecker |
Piculus rivolii |
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Lineated Woodpecker |
Dryocopus lineatus |
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Black-cheeked Woodpecker |
Melanerpes pucherani |
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Smoky-brown Woodpecker |
Veniliornis fumigatus |
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Little Woodpecker |
Veniliornis passerinus |
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Scarlet-backed Woodpecker |
Veniliornis callonotus |
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Guayaquil Woodpecker |
Campephilus gayaquilensis |
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Powerful Woodpecker |
Campephilus pollens |
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Bar-winged Cinclodes |
Cinclodes fuscus |
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Stout-billed Cinclodes |
Cinclodes excelsior |
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Pacific Hornero |
Furnarius cin |