Tropical Birding - Southern Ecuador, March 2005

: Grey-backed Hawk seen at Buenaventura

Southern Ecuador - March 2005

Tour Leader: José Illanes

12 - 28th March 2005

Participants:: Richard Specht
Jeanne Specht: Stephen Harris
Shale Brownstein: Tom Ferrier
Judy Briant: Doug Loucks
Pierre Van de Weijen: Alma Leegwater
And George Wallace for ABC

Day 1. We met up at our hotel in Guayaquil and enjoyed a welcome dinner.

Day 2. The tour started at Cerro Blanco, and area of dry forest close to Guayaquil. A Collared Forest-Falcon was calling on our arrival, and provided us with a great start as it came in and perched in a dead tree, almost rivalled by the great views of Elegant Crescentchest that came shortly afterwards. Grey-cheeked Parakeet, Crimson-breasted Finch, Collared Antshrike, and Superciliated Wren were our first Tumbesian endemics, and Grey-and-gold Warblers serenaded us from the trails. After lunch we drove to the mangrove reserve at Manglares Churute, where Horned Screamers were perched in the distant treetops. Snail Kites and Savannah Hawks accompanied on our way to the wetlands at Santa Rosa. The pools were rather dry, but a White-throated Crake appeared from the reeds. Arriving in Zaruma in time for dinner, we checked in to our hotel.

Day 3. Buenaventura was our destination for the next two days, and our first morning started with some good mixed flocks which included Rufous-throated and Flamed-faced Tanagers and Line-cheeked Spinetail. The loud and enchanting Song Wren was eventually seen by everyone as two males duetted by the trail. We were treated to a Grey-backed Hawk and a Black Hawk-Eagle soaring overhead, and got good scope views of another Grey-backed Hawk sitting in a tree. In the afternoon we headed down to Umbrellabird Lodge, but our journey was interrupted by a singing Ochraceous Atilla along the entrance drive. At the lodge the hummingbird feeders were busy with Emerlad-bellied Woodnymph, Violet-bellied Hummingbird, Baron's Hermit, and Green-crowned Brilliant. In the forest our main target was the Long-wattled Umbrellabird, and a fine male complete with huge dangling wattle was well worth the muddy walk down.

: El Oro Parakeet also at Buenaventura

Day 4. El Oro Parakeet is a newly-described species known only from southern Ecuador, and one of the main reasons for the establishment of the Buenaventura reserve. We found a small group of these endangered parrots in a tree near the road and were able to watch their romantic antics. Another set of hummingbird feeders gave us even better views of the species we had seen at the lodge, and a Barred Hawk soared overhead. We began the long drive to El Empalme, leaving the humid forests behind and arriving in the dry woodlands mid-afternoon. Tumbes Pewee, Red-masked Parakeet, and Baird's Flycatcher reminded us that we had arrived firmly back in the realm of the Tumbesian species before we continued to the border town of Macará.

Day 5. The forest at Jorupe is dominated by the cartoon-like Ceiba trees, and is home to many rare and threatened species. The area has recently been acquired by the Jocotoco Foundation and its special bird life should now be protected. We could really appreciate the importance of the site as it seemed almost every other bird we found was a Tumbesian endemic: Pacific Elaenia, Henna-hooded Foliage-gleaner, Rufous-necked Foliage-gleaner, White-tailed Jay, Ecuadorian Trogon, and White-edged Oriole. We even found nests of two endangered species, Slaty Becard, and Blackish-headed Spinetail. After lunch we returned to El Empalme and picked up Tumbes Sparrow, Tumbes Hummingbird, and White-headed Brushfinch. Back at Macará, an after-dark excursion gave us superb views of two Spectacled Owls.

Day 6. Sozoranga was covered by fog, but there were some breaks, and one of the first birds we found was Black-cowled Saltator, followed Loja and Tumbesian Tyrannulet. A Watkins's Antpitta teased us from the undergrowth, but some people managed to get a view. Two Rufous-headed Chachalacas were waiting for us back at the car park, posing long enough for everyone to get a good look through the scope, and we finished off with a splendid male Great Antshrike. A short drive up the road took us to temperate forest at Utuana, another Jocotoco Foundation reserve. The dapper little Black-crested Tit-Tyrant entertained us here, while a Purple-throated Sunangel fed at flowering shrubs. A Chestnut-crowned Antpitta proved just as hard to see as the Watkins's earlier in the day, but it eventually showed itself to a few people.

Day 7. An early start took us back to a bamboo patch near to where we heard Grey-headed Antbird yesterday. This time the birds were more co-operative, and we got good views as they passed by, and even better views of two gorgeous Plushcaps that appeared immediately after. With the antbirds safely in the bag, we could concentrate on the Rusty-breasted Antpitta that had begun calling at the same time. It proved typically elusive, but we got several glimpses as it moved through, making for a great end to a superb morning. A second visit to Utuana rewarded us with Jelski's Chat-Tyrant, Stripe-headed and Bay-crowned Brushfinches, and Rainbow-fronted Starfrontlet. The journey to Vilcabamba was broken by stops near Catmayo where we found Chestnut-throated, Black-and-white, and Parrot-billed Seedeaters, Band-tailed Sierra-Finch, Tumbes Sparrow, and common open-country birds.

: Slaty Becard at Jorupe

Day 8. Up to the highlands at Cajanuma, where Red-hooded Tanagers, Pearled Treerunners, and Hooded Mountain-Tanagers were common in the mixed flocks, Grey-breasted Mountain-Toucan was calling from the low trees, and big groups of Pale-footed Swallows. The afternoon was spent relaxing by the hummingbird feeders at Tapichilaca, taking in one of the most stunning colours in the avian world, the glittering fiery orange throat patch of a Flame-throated Sunangel. Golden-plumed Parakeets were flying around the lodge and we did well to get a Bearded Guan scoped from the garden.

Day 9. The quest for the Jocotoco Antpitta began this morning. We were focussed on the ground birds, and saw Barred Antthrush, on the way. The antpitta began calling and we were treated to three brief views of this spectacular giant as two competing birds of this called to each other from opposite sides of the trail. A celebratory lunch back at the lodge followed, and during the heat of the day we drove to Valladolid. Scanning the treetops revealed a superb Chestnut-crested Cotinga, and as the temperature dropped mixed flocks began to appear, containing Grey-mantled Wren, and Silver-backed and Rufous-crested Tanagers.

Day 10. Yesterday's flocks were good, but this morning's were even better. Dusky Piha, Powerful Woodpecker, Northern Mountain-Cacique, and Strong-billed Woodcreeper were the highlights of the upper part of the road, and beyond Valladolid we found Marañon Thrush and Black-faced Tanager. We had lunch back on top of the ridge above Tapichilaca with a Mouse-coloured Thistletail for company. Our arrival at Copalinga lodge coincided with a lot of bird activity, and just around the cabins were Paradise Tanager, Masked Tanager, Yellow-tufted Woodpecker, Long-tailed Tyrant, Violet-fronted Brilliant, and Glittering-throated Emerald.

Day 11. Two Amazonian Umbrellabirds and a Sickle-winged Guan greeted us at Río Bombuscaro, and further along the trail were Orange- and Golden-eared Tanagers, Ecuadorian Tyrannulet, Ash-browed Spinetail. Heavy rain dampened the bird activity, so we tried the Yantzaza road, which seemed to be dripping with birds as much as with water: a Grey-breasted Crake emerged from the grasses; a Scaled Pigeon perched obligingly on a tree top; and a gorgeous male Yellow-cheeked Becard came in to investigate us.

Day 12. A long drive to Cuenca today, but not without some good birding breaks on the way. Along the old road to Loja a Cliff Flycatcher was hawking insects and an Andean Cock-of-the-rock was feasting in a fruiting tree, while a mixed flock gave us Olivaceous Greenlet, Coppery-chested Jacamar, Lemon-browed Flycatcher, and Dark-breasted Spinetail. Blackish and White-browed Antbirds called from the side of the road, and were both seen.

Day 13. Our morning in Cajas National Park was very productive. Besides the endemic Violet-throated Metaltail, we found Andean Tit-Spinetail, Mouse-coloured Thisteltail, Red-rumped Bush-Tyrant, White-capped Dipper, and a pair of Giant Conebills. At the end of the road we were able to compare Stout-billed and Bar-winged Cinclodes, while Tit-like Dacnises were all around. A pair of Ecuadorian Hillstars rounded off the morning, and we set off for Guayaquil where the main tour ended after final farewells to those who were not continuing on to the coast for the extension.

: Masked Booby on Isla de la Plata

Day 14. In the dry scrub near Ancón we were successful in our search for Necklaced Spinetail, Collared Antshrike, and Variable Hawk before we reached the coastal lagoons and their waterbirds. Brown and Peruvian Pelicans, Chilean Flamingos, were all big and obvious, and running about between them were lots of waders, including Collared Plover, Willet, and Wandering Tattler. After lunch we visited more pools, which were teeming with Grey-headed, Franklin's, and Laughing Gulls, and Sandwich and Royal Terns.

Day 15. If you want to see Esmeraldas Woodstar you have to go to Río Ayampe. We found a male and a female of this endangered hummingbird feeding at the same bush as the only slightly-less-rare Little Woodstar. This is not the only attraction here, and Northern Violaceous Jay and Guayaquil Woodpecker were welcome additions. By popular demand, the rest of the morning was spent by the pool at Manta Raya Lodge. In the afternoon we headed up to Aguas Blancas where Blue-crowned Motmot and West Peruvian Dove were common. Another night excursion provided everyone with good views of West Peruvian Screech-Owl.

Day 16. Our boat for Isla de la Plata left from Puerto Lopez, and on the journey we encountered Blue-footed Boobies and several Grey Phalaropes. Red-footed and Masked Boobies were on the rocks around the landing bay. Long-tailed Mockingbirds and Collared Warbling-Finches were hopping around near the buildings, and a walk along the trails gave us Red-billed Tropicbird.

Day 17. Our final morning around Manta Raya Lodge added a few new species (Red-billed Scythebill, Laughing Falcon, and Hook-billed Kite), before we stopped off at the lagoons to get more views of the waders and wildfowl. A last look in at Ancón finished the trip off with Short-tailed Field-Tyrant and Grey-and-white Tyrannulet. At the farewell dinner there was some competition, but Jocotoco Antpitta was voted the best of many memorable birds.

Bird List. This list only contains birds seen by at least one of the group: birds heard only or seen only by the leader are not included. Restricted-range species are in bold, globally-threatened species are in red.

Pale-browed Tinamou	*Crypturellus transfasciatus*
Least Grebe	Tachybaptus dominicus
Pied-billed Grebe	Podilymbus podiceps
Red-billed Tropicbird	Phaethon aethereus
Magnificent Frigatebird	Fregata magnificens
Blue-footed Booby	Sula nebouxii
Nazca Booby	Sula granti
Red-footed Booby	Sula sula
Neotropic Cormorant	Phalacrocorax brasilianus
Anhinga	Anhinga anhinga
Brown Pelican	Pelecanus occidentalis
Peruvian Pelican	Pelecanus thagus
Horned Screamer	Anhima cornuta
Black-bellied Whistling-Duck	Dendrocygna autumnalis
Andean Teal	Anas andium
White-cheeked Pintail	Anas bahamensis
Yellow-billed Pintail	Anas georgica
Andean Ruddy-Duck	Oxyura ferruginea
Chilean Flamingo	Phoenicopterus chilensis
Cocoi Heron	Ardea cocoi
Great Egret	Ardea alba
Snowy Egret	Egretta thula
Tricolored Heron	Egretta tricolor
Cattle Egret	Bubulcus ibis
Striated Heron	Butorides striatus
Black-crowned Night-Heron	Nycticorax nycticorax
Yellow-crowned Night-Heron	Nyctanassa violacea
Glossy Ibis	Plegadis falcinellus
Black Vulture	Coragyps atratus
Turkey Vulture	Cathartes aura
Hook-billed Kite	Chondrohierax uncinatus
Swallow-tailed Kite	Elanoides forficatus
Pearl Kite	Gampsonyx swainsonii
Snail Kite	Rostrhamus sociabilis
Double-toothed Kite	Harpagus bidentatus
Plumbeous Kite	Ictinia plumbea
Plain-breasted Hawk	Accipiter ventralis
Crane Hawk	Geranospiza caerulescens
Gray-backed Hawk	*Leucopternis occidentalis*
Barred Hawk	Leucopternis princeps
Savanna Hawk	Buteogallus meridionalis
Harris's Hawk	Parabuteo unicinctus
Black-chested Buzzard-Eagle	Geranoaetus melanoleucus
Gray Hawk	Buteo nitidus
Roadside Hawk	Buteo magnirostris
Variable Hawk	Buteo polyosoma
Black Hawk-Eagle	Spizaetus tyrannus
Black Caracara	Daptrius ater
Northern Crested-Caracara	Caracara cheriway
Collared Forest-Falcon	Micrastur semitorquatus
Laughing Falcon	Herpetotheres cachinnans
American Kestrel	Falco sparverius
Bat Falcon	Falco rufigularis
Peregrine Falcon	Falco peregrinus
Rufous-headed Chachalaca	*Ortalis erythroptera*
Bearded Guan	*Penelope barbata*
Sickle-winged Guan	Chamaepetes goudotii
Gray-breasted Crake	Laterallus exilis
White-throated Crake	Laterallus albigularis
Blackish Rail	Pardirallus nigricans
Purple Gallinule	Porphyrula martinica
Andean Coot	Fulica ardesiaca
Limpkin	Aramus guarauna
Wattled Jacana	Jacana jacana
Greater Yellowlegs	Tringa melanoleuca
Lesser Yellowlegs	Tringa flavipes
Solitary Sandpiper	Tringa solitaria
Willet	Catoptrophorus semipalmatus
Wandering Tattler	Heterosceles incanus
Spotted Sandpiper	Actitis macularia
Whimbrel	Numenius phaeopus
Ruddy Turnstone	Arenaria interpres
Sanderling	Calidris alba
Semipalmated Sandpiper	Calidris pusilla
Western Sandpiper	Calidris mauri
Least Sandpiper	Calidris minutilla
Pectoral Sandpiper	Calidris melanotos
Short-billed Dowitcher	Limnodromus griseus
American Oystercatcher	Haematopus palliatus
Black-necked Stilt	Himantopus mexicanus
Gray Plover	Pluvialis squatarola
American Golden-Plover	Pluvialis dominica
Semipalmated Plover	Charadrius semipalmatus
Wilson's Plover	Charadrius wilsonia
Snowy Plover	Charadrius alexandrinus
Collared Plover	Charadrius collaris
Killdeer	Charadrius vociferus
Kelp Gull	Larus dominicanus
Gray-hooded Gull	Larus cirrocephalus
Andean Gull	Larus serranus
Laughing Gull	Larus atricilla
Franklin's Gull	Larus pipixcan
Gull-billed Tern	Sterna nilotica
Royal Tern	Sterna maxima
Sandwich Tern	Sterna sandvicensis
Rock Pigeon	Columba livia
Band-tailed Pigeon	Columba fasciata
Scaled Pigeon	Columba speciosa
Pale-vented Pigeon	Columba cayennensis
Ruddy Pigeon	Columba subvinacea
Plumbeous Pigeon	Columba plumbea
Eared Dove	Zenaida auriculata
West Peruvian Dove	Zenaida meloda
Ecuadorian Ground-Dove	*Columbina buckleyi*
Croaking Ground-Dove	Columbina cruziana
Blue Ground-Dove	Claravis pretiosa
White-tipped Dove	Leptotila verreauxi
Pallid Dove	Leptotila pallida
Red-masked Parakeet	*Aratinga erythrogenys*
White-eyed Parakeet	Aratinga leucophthalmus
Golden-plumed Parakeet	Leptosittaca branickii
El Oro Parakeet	*Pyrrhura orcesi*
Pacific Parrotlet	*Forpus coelestis*
Gray-cheeked Parakeet	*Brotogeris pyrrhopterus*
Blue-headed Parrot	Pionus menstruus
Bronze-winged Parrot	Pionus chalcopterus
Red-lored Amazon	Amazona autumnalis
Scaly-naped Amazon	Amazona mercenaria
Dark-billed Cuckoo	Coccyzus melacoryphus
Gray-capped Cuckoo	Coccyzus lansbergi
Squirrel Cuckoo	Piaya cayana
Smooth-billed Ani	Crotophaga ani
Groove-billed Ani	Crotophaga sulcirostris
Striped Cuckoo	Tapera naevia
West Peruvian Screech-Owl	Otus roboratus
Pacific Pygmy-Owl	Glaucidium peruanum
Burrowing Owl	Athene cunicularia
Spectacled Owl	Pulsatrix perspicillata
Anthony's Nightjar	*Caprimulgus anthonyi*
White-collared Swift	Streptoprocne zonaris
Chestnut-collared Swift	Streptoprocne rutilus
Tumbes Swift	Chaetura ocypetes
Gray-rumped Swift	Chaetura cinereiventris
Lesser Swallow-tailed Swift	Panyptila cayennensis
White-whiskered Hermit	Phaethornis yaruqui
Green Hermit	Phaethornis guy
Baron's Hermit	Phaethornis baroni
White-necked Jacobin	Florisuga mellivora
Brown Violet-ear	Colibri delphinae
Green Violet-ear	Colibri thalassinus
Sparkling Violet-ear	Colibri coruscans
Green Thorntail	Popelairia conversii
Fork-tailed Woodnymph	Thalurania furcata
Green-crowned Woodnymph	Thalurania fannyi
Emerald-bellied Woodnymph	Thalurania hypochlora
Violet-bellied Hummingbird	Damophila julie
Tumbes Hummingbird	*Leucippus baeri*
Rufous-tailed Hummingbird	Amazilia tzacatl
Amazilia Hummingbird	Amazilia amazilia
Andean Emerald	Amazilia franciae
Glittering-throated Emerald	Amazilia fimbriata
Speckled Hummingbird	Adelomyia melanogenys
Purple-bibbed Whitetip	*Urosticte benjamini*
Ecuadorian Piedtail	*Phlogophilus hemileucurus*
Green-crowned Brilliant	Heliodoxa jacula
Violet-fronted Brilliant	Heliodoxa leadbeateri
Fawn-breasted Brilliant	Heliodoxa rubinoides
Ecuadorian Hillstar	Oreotrochilus chimborazo
Shining Sunbeam	Aglaeactis cupripennis
Mountain Velvetbreast	Lafresnaya lafresnayi
Great Sapphirewing	Pterophanes cyanopterus
Bronzy Inca	Coeligena coeligena
Collared Inca	Coeligena torquata
Buff-winged Starfrontlet	Coeligena lutetiae
Rainbow Starfrontlet	*Coeligena iris*
Chestnut-breasted Coronet	Boissonneaua matthewsii
Amethyst-throated Sunangel	Heliangelus amethysticollis
Flame-throated Sunangel	Heliangelus micraster
Purple-throated Sunangel	*Heliangelus viola*
Booted Racket-tail	Ocreatus underwoodii
Black-tailed Trainbearer	Lesbia victoriae
Violet-throated Metaltail	*Metallura baroni*
Tyrian Metaltail	Metallura tyrianthina
Rufous-capped Thornbill	Chalcostigma ruficeps
Blue-mantled Thornbill	Chalcostigma stanleyi
Long-tailed Sylph	Aglaiocercus kingi
Violet-tailed Sylph	*Aglaiocercus coelestis*
Wedge-billed Hummingbird	Schistes geoffroyi
Long-billed Starthroat	Heliomaster longirostris
Short-tailed Woodstar	*Myrmia micrura*
Little Woodstar	Chaetocercus bombus
Esmeraldas Woodstar	*Chaetocercus berlepschi*
Ecuadorian Trogon	Trogon mesurus
Masked Trogon	Trogon personatus
Northern Violaceous Trogon	Trogon caligatus
Ringed Kingfisher	Megaceryle torquata
Green Kingfisher	Chloroceryle americana
Blue-crowned Motmot	Momotus momota
Coppery-chested Jacamar	*Galbula pastazae*
Black-streaked Puffbird	Malacoptila fulvogularis
Lanceolated Monklet	Micromonacha lanceolata
Red-headed Barbet	Eubucco bourcierii
Emerald Toucanet	Aulacorhynchus prasinus
Crimson-rumped Toucanet	Aulacorhynchus haematopygus
Pale-mandibled Araçari	Pteroglossus erythropygius
Gray-breasted Mountain-Toucan	Andigena hypoglauca
Chestnut-mandibled Toucan	Ramphastos swainsonii
Lafresnaye's Piculet	Picumnus lafresnayi
Ecuadorian Piculet	*Picumnus sclateri*
Crimson-mantled Woodpecker	Piculus rivolii
Lineated Woodpecker	Dryocopus lineatus
Black-cheeked Woodpecker	Melanerpes pucherani
Smoky-brown Woodpecker	Veniliornis fumigatus
Little Woodpecker	Veniliornis passerinus
Scarlet-backed Woodpecker	Veniliornis callonotus
Guayaquil Woodpecker	Campephilus gayaquilensis
Powerful Woodpecker	Campephilus pollens
Bar-winged Cinclodes	Cinclodes fuscus
Stout-billed Cinclodes	*Cinclodes excelsior*
Pacific Hornero	Furnarius cin