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SOUTHERN ECUADOR
Tumbesian
Endemics and Highland Rarities
6th - 23rd September 2007
 JOCOTOCO ANTPITTA This mythical bird was only discovered in 1997, and remains to this day a rare and shy species, still being listed as endangered by IUCN. Thankfully the 'stress' of trying to see this amazing antpitta, the so-called 'granddaddy of them all', has been relieved somewhat lately as the foundation have recently trained a local guide Franco to feed the birds daily. Seeing this magnificent near-endemic is therefore now near-guaranteed, allowing fantastic photo opportunities in the process.
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Leader: Sam Woods
Unless stated the photos in this report were taken by Sam Woods/Tropical Birding.
Special thanks to Martha Davis for providing additional photos from the tour.
Following the ABA International Conference in Quito that Tropical Birding hosted, we ran a number of specially arranged pre and post conference tours, that followed the same itinerary and format as our set-departure tours. Out of the two hundred or so people that attended the conference around one hundred and fifty joined many of the scheduled add-on tours around Eastern Ecuador, Northwestern Ecuador, the Galapagos and Southern Ecuador. In this case seven of the conference participants-Marcia, Martha, Polly, Karen, Alison, Bob and Jeff joined me for a comprehensive circuit around Southern Ecuador, with Karen, Martha and Polly staying on further for the short Pacific Coast Extension that followed.
The tour proved a great success, (despite the fact that the timing of the tour is traditionally considered sub-optimal for this area), hauling over 520 species on the tour including 500 of which were seen by at least one of the tour participants. The tour began dramatically, when on our first full day we went straight after one of the biggest tour targets - the magnificent Long-wattled Umbrellabird. Not only a massive, extremely cool-looking bird, (the males of which have ridiculously long, black feathered wattles), but also a Chóco endemic only found in western Ecuador and a small area in Colombia. Birds simply do not get much better than that. We were thrilled with the sight of upto four different birds in view at one time, including three fully-wattled males and were 'serenaded' with their strange mooing calls at the lek that gives them their Spanish name - ave torre or 'bull bird'. This was predictably never upstaged on the tour and was unanimously voted as the bird of the trip. However that was not to say there were not other fantastic unforgettable highlights, including three Jocotoco Antpittas (a pair and their few month-old juvenile), on a morning at Tapichalaca that saw us run into seven different antpittas of four different species! The subtropical forest at Cajanuma was similarly good to us providing us with stunning prolonged views of both Gray-breasted Mountain-Toucan and the oddly Western Tanager-like Red-hooded Tanager. Other thrillers included Piura Hemispingus and the unbelievably cute Black-crested Tit-tyrant around Utuana; a load of cool Tumbesian endemics at Jorupe that included White-tailed Jay, Watkins's Antpitta, Speckle-breasted Wren, White-edged Oriole, West Peruvian Screech-owl and the extremely scarce Gray-breasted Flycatcher (along with a whole bunch of other Tumbesian specialty flycatchers in the same area). Our venture into the foothills of the eastern slope of the Andes found us bumping into flock after flock in the Bombuscaro area of Podocarpus National Park - with birds like Ecuadorian Tyrannulet, the recently-described Foothill Elaenia, Orange-eared, Paradise, Spotted, Yellow-bellied and Golden-eared Tanagers, Yellow-breasted and Foothill Antwrens, Golden-winged Tody-flycatcher in addition to a superb Coppery-chested Jacamar that appeared 'at the death' just as it seemed we were doomed to miss that highly desired foothill species. Our time in the high paramos of El Cajas was productive and frustrating, proving there is always something that gives you the run around as the usual Violet-throated Metaltails had taken a leave of absence. However, Chimborazo Hillstars, Mouse-colored Thistletails and a bunch of Tit-like Dacnises kept us busy up in the highlands. Our jaunt out to Isla de la Plata was just fantastic with dancing Blue-footed Boobies; a small colony of both Red-footed and Nazca Boobies seen; a bunch of Red-billed Tropicbirds; and a hulking Waved Albatross that swooped in to land beside us providing more then enough excitement, to add to the fantastic displays of the Humpback Whales that were seen on our way out there. Other highlights from the extension included a trio of Surfbirds feasting on a barnacle-encrusted pipe near Santa Elena, and a glorious Pacific Royal-Flycatcher at Ayampe to name but a few.
ITINERARY
| MAIN TOUR | ||
| 7th September | Manglares-churute and Buenaventura. | Night Buenavnentura |
| 8th September | Buenaventura. | Night Buenavnentura |
| 9th September | AM Buenaventura and PM El Emplame. | Night Macara |
| 10th September | Jorupe reserve. | Night Macara |
| 11th September | Utuana and Sozoranga. | Night Macara |
| 12th September | AM Utuana PM Catamayo and Vilcabamba. | Night Vilcabamba |
| 13th September | AM Cajanuma, Podocarpus NP PM Tapichalaca. | Night Tapichalaca |
| 14th September | AM Tapichalaca PM Valladolid area. | Night Tapichalaca |
| 15th September | AM Tapichalaca PM drive to Copalinga. | Night Copalinga |
| 16th September | Rio Bombuscaro, Podocarpus NP | Night Copalinga |
| 17th September | AM Old Zamora Road and San Francisco (Podocarpus NP) PM Drive to Cuenca. | Night Cuenca |
| 18th September | El Cajas. | Night Guayaquil |
| PACIFIC COAST EXTENSION | ||
| 19th September | Departure/Santa Elena Peninsula and travel to Mantaraya Lodge. | Night Mantaraya Lodge |
| 20th September | AM Ayampe PM Machalilla NP | Night Mantaraya Lodge |
| 21st September | Isla de la Plata. | Night Mantaraya Lodge |
| 22nd September | Ayampe and Santa Elena. | Night Guayaquil |
| 23rd September | Departure |
Day 1 (Sept 7th) MANGLARES-CHURUTE: Lowland
wetlands 13m/43ft and BUENAVENTURA: Cloudforest 525m/1,723ft
Slightly bleary-eyed from five days of 'full-on' birding during the ABA conference
in Quito, we all met again early in Quito and took the short flight to Ecuador's
largest city, Guayaquil. It was then time to get some rest as we headed straight
for the cloud forest reserve of Buenaventura, located on the southern edge
of the wet Chóco
region, on the western slope of the Andes. However, a short time out of Guayaquil
we made a special stop at the wetland reserve of Manglares-Churute, the last
Ecuadorian stronghold for Horned Screamer. Four of these massive waterbirds
were found perched conspicuously on top of some roadside bushes that dot this
wetland reserve. A good start to our southern circuit. White-tailed Kites
and Ecuadorian Ground-Doves were also welcome additions in the same
area. A short stretch of the legs and a quick 'ticking' extravaganza later
we found ourselves hurtling towards Buenaventura once more, arriving just
in time for a pleasant lunch in the field overlooking some hummer feeders
that were simply buzzing with birds. Some of these were familiar to the group
from our time in the Chóco
region during the ABA conference, like Green Thorntail and White-whiskered
Hermit, mingling with some new species like Baron's Hermit, the
exquisite Violet-bellied Hummingbird and the localized endemic Emerald-bellied
Woodnymph. We even managed to pick up two highly-desired manakins a short
distance from the feeders, with first a Thrush-like Schiffornis, and
then a male Club-winged Manakin, a very distinctive manakin that is
endemic to the Chóco
region. We then birded a quiet road searching for flocks and after little
initially (aside from the localized Loja Tyrannulet), we finally ran
into a frantic feeding flock that contained a vivid, jade Glistening-green
Tanager, another regional endemic that is rarely encountered in the reserve.
After that vision in green we went and checked into the attractive Umbrellabird
Lodge perched on the side of a valley overlooking the cloudforest, picking
up both Chestnut-mandibled Toucan and Scarlet-backed Woodpecker
along the way.
Day
2 (Sept 8th) BUENAVENTURA:
Cloudforest 525m/1,723ft
This morning I am sure will live long in the memory for everyone on the
tour. Not only did we see one of the biggest target birds in the area (literally),
the species also put on a spectacular show for us. Long-wattled Umbrellabirds
typically display for a short time early in the mornings or late in the afternoons,
often in the half light of dawn or dusk. And so it was we decided to head
down the trail pre-dawn, flashlights in hand, so that we could get in position
in time for the show. As we made our way down the trail in the dark it was
not long before we were hearing the strange, cow-like mooing calls of several
males at the lek down in the valley below. Coupled with this we also heard
the flapping of the umbrellabird's huge wings that signified the lek was in
full swing below. Although the trail was a little steep we found ourselves
upping the pace in pursuit of these huge cotingas. After several brief, far
from satisfactory, views of several males flashing through the treetops, we
found ourselves right in the heart of the lek standing there looking straight
up at three well-endowed males perched closeby, in addition to a female also
in attendance. On this occasion the males decided to 'give up the ghost' and
just sit there in plain view for over 10 minutes, allowing us to fully soak
up their ridiculous, huge wattles and crazy 'punk' hairstyles. Once the huge
frames of the umbrellabirds had moved off we set about looking for Song
Wren, another local specialty (indeed Buanaventura seems to be THE only
reliable place to get this bird in Ecuador), that had been heard giving its
fluty song whilst we were transfixed with the umbrellabirds. Soon enough,
with a little devious use of playback, these attractive wrens appeared in
the close undergrowth. Unfortunately the calling Brownish Twistwing
a short distance away was far less obliging, and only showed to the guide.
Other specialties we picked up included Chóco
Toucan
to add to yesterday's Chestnut-mandibled Toucans; a pair of Pale-mandibled
Araçaris perched on the bananas at Umbrellabird Lodge during lunch;
a lone Crested Guan perched motionless by the forested road; a couple
of Pacific Tuftedcheeks that posed in the scope for over five minutes;
and an agitated Chestnut-backed Antbird that responded
well to tape. A plan had to be aborted for owling later that night as a sudden
and rare bout of rain for the tour moved in just as it approached the optimal
time.
 YELLOW-TUFTED WOODPECKER Rio Bombuscaro Just one of the many colorful birds on the Copalinga lodge grounds along with Turquoise and Green-and-gold Tanagers and Golden-winged Tody-flycatcher. (Martha Davis) |
 LONG-WATTLED UMBRELLABIRD Buenaventura A spectacular huge cotinga that only occurs in western Ecuador and southwestern Colombia. Their strange cow-like calls were heard as we made our way down to the lek in the dark, where we then ran into at least four different birds, including three impressively endowed males. The unanimous BIRD OF THE TRIP. |
Day
3 (Sept 9th) BUENAVENTURA:
Cloudforest 525m/1,723ft and
EL EMPALME: Dry desert scrub 875m/2,707ft.
A final morning in the foothills of Buenaventura saw us run into two special
parrots - first a very close flyby view of the extremely attractive Chóco
endemic Rose-faced Parrot, that was followed by prolonged perched views
of the Tumbesian specialty, Red-masked Parakeet. This illustrates well
one of the unique attractions for birders visiting this foothill reserve -
it provides an insight into the avifauna of both the dry Tumbesian lowland
regions that dominate the landscape further west, and the wet Chóco
region that is largely further north (as Buenaventura is at the southern extremity
of this region). Other notable additions during our final spell at Buenaventura
included a very vocal Line-cheeked Spinetail; a far too fleeting Esmeraldas
Antbird, (another Chóco
specialty); a pair
of Scaled Fruiteaters helpfully picked out by Jeff, and a small group
of the attractive Chóco
endemic Rufous-throated
Tanager. We
then headed to the Tumbesian lowlands for real heading downslope and down
south towards the Peruvian border and the town of Macara, that was our base
for the following three nights. The landscape and the birds therefore changed
dramatically as we made our way southwards, the humid forests giving way to
tinder-dry arid scrub, with a dramatic change in the avifauna also. This is
one of the undoubted attractions of this south tour, the huge range of habitats
and variety of birds that are encountered in the south, ensuring there is
never a dull moment. We made a special stop on the way down to the border,
at some dry scrub near to El Empalme. Soon after leaving the car one of the
most attractive of our target birds - Elegant Crescentchest - was heard
giving its incessant chipping call closeby, and soon after one was lured up
into an open cactus but frustratingly did not linger for everyone to get a
shot at. However, the pair of White-headed Brush-finches were much
more obliging as they fed low in the leafless scrub nearby, as were the small
group of Tumbes Sparrows (yet another local specialty). The same area
also held several small excited flocks of delightful Pacific Parrotlets,
a cute Tumbesian species that was encountered regularly in the drier areas
of the tour, along with our first Plumbeous-backed Thrush of the trip.
We then checked into our Macara hotel, a stone's throw from Peru, where we
also enjoyed our first of many very good seafood meals in the local restaurant
that has a well-deserved high reputation for producing some of the finest
seafood cuisine in the area.
Day
4 (Sept 10th) JORUPE RESERVE: Deciduous woodland 556m/1,824ft.
A 10 minute drive from our hotel in town brought us to the entrance of the
Jocotoco Foundation's Jorupe reserve. This reserve protects an important area
of dry deciduous woodland, that is a haven for many of the top Tumbesian birds
we were after. New birds came thick and fast as we began our birding of the
dry Tumbesian region in earnest. A few bursts of a Pacific Pygmy-Owl
tape does wonders in this area, drawing in an array of agitated flycatchers
and other passerines. So it proved on this morning when a quick burst of the
owl brought in some of the commoner Tumbesian species, like Sooty-crowned
Flycatcher, Baird's Flycatcher, several Collared Antshrikes
and vivid-yellow White-edged Orioles, and a pair of very cute Ecuadorian
Piculets. It took a while to pick up the highly-desired Slaty Becard,
a male of which put in a late morning appearance. Other highlights included
a lone calling Gray-breasted Flycatcher, a globally-threatened species.
Best bird of the day though was an extremely co-operative Watkins's Antpitta
that actually flew up into the crown of a small tree so that we could all
get onto it, if only all antpittas were this helpful! Other cool birds in
the deciduous woodlands of Jorupe were a pair of noisy, (but very attractive)
White-tailed Jays; an adorable little Pacific Pygmy-Owl that
our eagle-eyed driver, Nico picked up for us; and Short-tailed Woodstar,
another regional specialty. There was plenty of other interesting birds, including
two very distinctive Tumbesian wrens - Fasciated and Speckle-breasted Wrens;
a very popular Red-billed Scythebill; and several Black-capped Sparrows
hopped along the entrance track for a short time in the early morning. On
returning to Macara in the afternoon we were greeted by the sight of a large
'squadron' of Chestnut-collared Swallows swooping low over the town
while preparing to roost under the nearby eves. We then enjoyed some more
spectacular seafood in town before some of us 'die-hards' headed out once
again into the dry woodland of Jorupe on the hunt for owls. With the much-appreciated
help of a local guide we walked into several known territories, before hitting
the jackpot at the third attempt when a close calling West Peruvian Screech-owl
was teed-up in the spotlight for Bob, Marcia, Jeff and I to soak up to the
full. A great end to our full day's birding in the dry Tumbesian realm.
 ECUADORIAN TROGON Ayampe |
 PACIFIC PYGMY-OWL Jorupe |
Day
5 (Sept 11th) UTUANA: Bamboo-dominated highland scrub and woodland
2,550m/8,366ft and SOZORANGA: Dry scrub and deciduous woodland 1,559m/5,115ft.
Having done so well in Jorupe we decided to make a headstart on the southwestern
highlands that hold some very attractive specialties of their own. So we headed
up into the dry bamboo-choked mountains near the small town of Utuana. We
first made a special roadside stop in an area of bamboo for some stakeouts.
Right on cue a pair of Piura Hemispingus called shortly after stepping
off the bus, and responded spectacularly to tape, flying all the way down
the slope to greet us. This superb hemispingus is one seriously attractive
tanager, with its rich rufous breast, striking white eyebrow and jet-black
head. Not long after a Chapman's Antshrike took a little more coaxing
before it too perched up close in the bamboo. As with many of the species
in the Utuana area, these local specialties (that also barely extend their
range into northern Peru and are virtually unknown from elsewhere in Ecuador),
include a bunch of bamboo specialists that rely on these threatened bamboo-laden
slopes for their existence. A couple of other localized species, Jelski's
Chat-tyrant and Black-cowled Saltator, were also found a short
time later lurking in the chusquea bamboo. A less-localized, but highly-attractive
tanager - Rufous-chested Tanager was also found by Jeff in the same
area. With the species performing spectacularly well, we had time to spare,
so we made a break for the Utuana reserve a little further upslope, with some
specific targets in mind. On arrival at the feeders a bunch of magnificent
Rainbow Starfrontlets were in attendance, with a few Purple-throated
Sunangels also coming in, in smaller numbers, here and there. The spectacular
plumage of the starfrontlets, every bit as dramatic as their name suggests,
had hardly sunk in for most people when our main target species - Black-crested
Tit-tyrant began calling closeby. Soon enough this black-and-white 'cutey'
popped up on a near bush and after a little further chasing this very smart
flycatcher was taken in by all. Job done we headed back towards the bus, picking
up more Rufous-necked Foliage-gleaners on the way back that were most
welcome as they gave their best views yet. Having all but cleaned up we decided
to focus our attentions on trying to get into some of the denser bamboo stands
along the 'Utuana Road' on the way back to Macara to target the rarest and
most skulking of the local specialties, that is one of the main reasons that
the reserve was purchased in the first place. After a few bad calls I finally
found a place that we could easily get into the bamboo and search for our
'prey'. Just a little playback brought in an extremely confiding Gray-headed
Antbird that literally came within inches of our heads below - we could
not have asked for more. We then made one final stop at Sozoranga on the return
journey where our main quarry - Bay-crowned Brush-finch - called and
popped up right where we parked, with a couple of trip-first White-winged
Brush-finches also across the other side of the road in the same spot.
Some days everything just goes right.
Day
6 (Sept 12th) UTUANA: Bamboo-dominated highland scrub and woodland
2,550m/8,366ft and SOZORANGA: Dry scrub and deciduous woodland 1,559m/5,115ft.
CATAMAYO: Grassland and scrub 1249m/4098ft.
Having virtually cleaned-up the previous day and therefore done the reserve
a day early there was not much we were after for our final morning out of
Macara. However, it was good to get more last looks at some specialties, including
second fantastic looks at the same Gray-headed Antbird. Although
our first stop pulled in another Tumbesian specialty with a Tumbesian Tyrannulet
in scrub near to Sozoranga, with several Highland Hepatic Tanagers
in the same area. We then headed to Catamayo after a lunch stop en-route
where our focus would be on finches skulking in the low scrub and grasses
on the verges of the airfield. Many Chestnut-throated Seedeaters and
our first Parrot-billed Seedeaters were found with ease, although the
main specialty - the extremely appropriately named Drab Seedeater remained
elusive until the last minute when a flock of finches passed overhead and
alighted in shrubbery next to us. There sat right on top of the bush was one
of three very obvious Drab Seedeaters that showed up just in the nick
of time. It was then full steam ahead to Vilcabamba in order for us
to have a final stab for the day at another local specialty, Plumbeous
Rail. We positioned ourselves on the edge of a dry pasture where a small
marshy patch in the center would be our focus for this scarce rail. On playing
the tape Marcia quickly found it as it emerged on the edge of the grass, whereupon
the bird decided to slink back into the shadows of the marsh before most people
had even got a glance at it. A little more playing though and this large,
dark rail obliged by running straight across a large open area allowing us
all to 'nail it'. We then spent a pleasant night in stone cabins on
edge of this popular tourist town, where the unusually high number of people
recorded over the age of one hundred has led to this particular valley becoming
known as the 'valley of the immortals'.
Day
7 (Sept 13th) CAJANUMA (Podocarpus NP): Temperate cloudforest 2,745m/9,006ft
and TAPICHALACA: Temperate cloudforest 2,486m/8,156ft.
On this day we climbed out of the dry arid scrub within the 'valley of
longevity', and into the temperate zone. First we headed our bus north to
the Cajanuma sector of the large Podocarpus National Park, and later headed
south of Vilcabamba to the world famous Tapichalaca reserve, the haunt of
the 'granddaddy' of all the antpittas - the recently-described Jocotoco Antpitta.
Cajanuma began slowly with few flocks, and our targets strangely quiet,
although we did pick up an unexpected migrant Upland Sandpiper on the
track into the park. However not long after we positioned ourselves on the
edge of some scenic bromeliad-laden cloudforest (that crucially allowed us
great views into the canopies of the large trees in the area), we soon began
picking up some flocks and some fantastic birds within them including Hooded,
Buff-breasted and Black-chested Mountain-Tanagers, Grass-green Tanager,
and later best of all was a very showy pair of Red-hooded Tanagers
decked out in glorious red-and-yellow, giving them a distinctly Western
Tanager like appearance. Other additions included Turquoise Jay;
Crimson-mantled Woodpecker; a pair of Slaty-backed Chat-Tyrants singing
beside a scenic waterfall; Plain-tailed Wren; Emerald (Andean) Toucanet;
and a marvellous adult Black-and-chestnut Eagle, that Marsha picked
up gliding low over the canopy in front of us. Best of all though was undoubtedly
the superb Gray-breasted Mountain-Toucan that appeared silently on
a treetop in front of us and remained in the scope for over five full minutes-very
sweet! With the toucan 'bagged' we headed over the Cordillera de Sabanilla
to the Jocotoco Foundation's flagship reserve, Tapichalaca. Before
we could check into the lodge there we were happily distracted by the frenzy
of feeding activity at Casa Simpson's busy hummingbird feeders. Among the
throng of Collared Incas, Long-tailed Sylphs and Chestnut-breasted
Coronets were a few specialties like Amethyst and Flame-throated Sunangels,
and the extremely localized Rufous-capped Thornbill. A brief later
afternoon venture on a near trail produced little except for a Tyrannine
Woodcreeper, and our first looks at a diminutive Slate-crowned Antpitta
lurking in the chusquea bamboo.
 GRAY-BREASTED MOUNTAIN-TOUCAN Cajanuma |
 JOCOTOCO ANTPITTA Tapichalaca |
Day
8 (Sept 14th) TAPICHALACA: Temperate cloudforest 2,486m/8,156ft. and
VALLADOLID: Lower subtropics/foothills.
This day was essentially about one very special bird, and the whole reason
both the foundation and the reserve exist in the first place. In late 1997
a group of very experienced neotropical birders (R. Ridgely, L. Navarrete,
J. and R. Moore and M. Ribadeneira), were walking a well-trodden birding trail
(Quebrada Honda), on the edge of what is now the Tapichalaca Biological Reserve
when they heard an unfamiliar, strange and distinctive owl-like hooting call.
On playing back the call they were shocked to see a very large and strikingly-patterned
antpitta come rushing into the tape, and they found themselves staring in
the face of arguably one of the greatest ornithological discoveries of the
last twenty years or so - the now fabled Jocotoco Antpitta. Despite
extensive searches in seemingly appropriate habitat the species remains shy,
elusive and still very rare and localized with a world population only recently
estimated at around 50 pairs. Therefore, this is truly one of the world's
greatest avian prizes. For many years following its dramatic discovery the
bird has remained elusive and hard to come by, requiring a good deal of patience,
perseverance and more than a little luck to see it. Although this has all
changed within the last 7 months or so as the foundation hired the services
of 'the antpitta whisperer', Angel Paz, from near Tandayapa in northern Ecuador
to train a local ranger, Franco, to use the same methods he uses on his own
antpitta species in order to habituate a pair of Jocotoco Antpittas. This
has worked with incredible success and sightings are currently almost guaranteed
with birds appearing on a daily basis. An added successful twist to this amazing
tale is that the first ever recorded juvenile Jocotoco Antpitta came in with
the pair about three months ago and has been coming back ever since. During
all this time the ranger Franco has been compiling vital field notes on their
behavior giving us brand new, valuable insights into the ecology of this extremely
rare, difficult to observe threatened species. As we birded our way up to
the 'Jocotoco Knoll', picking up the localized Chusquea Tapaculo and
Black-throated Tody-Tyrant along the way, in addition to a bunch of
Slaty Finches around the vast stands of seeding bamboo at the trailhead,
Franco passed us with a hatful of worms for the antpitta feast to follow.
We decided to stay on his tail and go straight after the 'grand-daddy'. On
arriving at the shelter within seconds an adult and then the juvenile Jocotoco
Antpittas appeared a few feet away on the trail giving us unrivaled photographic
opportunities of this impressive antpitta. Over the next hour or so we watched
amazed as both adult birds and their juvenile came on and off the path in
pursuit of the worm harvest that Franco brought, with the juvenile remaining
perched fully in the open on a close branch for over ten minutes at one stage.
A truly unique and incredible experience that everyone really appreciated.
The morning antpitta theme continued with a Chestnut-naped Antpitta also
coming into the worm table, and another individual being picked up further
along the trail in the presence of a confiding Rufous Antpitta in the
same area. To cap off this antpitta-fuelled morning we also picked up another
Slate-crowned Antpitta for those who had struggled for views the night
before. We ended the morning with a haul of seven different antpittas, of
four different species. Playing an Andean Pygmy-Owl to stir up a passing
flock later on proved a boon, when in came the owl itself on several occasions,
all the while being followed by its 'entourage', comprising of a mobbing horde
of Blue-backed Conebills. A very confiding Ash-colored Tapaculo
also put in an appearance in the same area, to round off a good morning
for skulkers. After a hearty lunch back at Casa Simpson we headed downslope
in the afternoon birding the wooded areas and scrub close to the town of Valladolid.
This substantial drop in altitude brings in a bunch of new birds, while at
the same time we were targeting a few special localized ones. The first of
these was found at the 'stakeout' just as we'd got into the range of the bird,
when a roadside red-eyed Rufous-tailed Tyrant soon had us scrambling
off the bus. The other main target Marañon Thrush proved a little
trickier, showing up right at the end and finally giving great perched views
in the Swarovski for everyone. This strikingly marked thrush is confined to
the Marañon drainage basin of extreme southern Ecuador and extreme
northern Peru. Other much appreciated additions included first Golden-eared
and then Paradise Tanagers, the latter of which prompted the most
impressive reaction to first seeing a bird I have ever heard. This impressive
tanager brought out a barrage of excitement from everyone, with Jeff leading
the pack in the wave of appreciation at the exquisiteness of this extremely
handsome, multicolored tangara. Other birds seen around Valladolid
included a Rufous-fronted Thornbird here at the northern extremity
of its range; a superb male Yellow-cheeked Becard (a much appreciated
lifebird for the local guide who had accompanied us for the afternoon), and
a pair of Lined Antshrikes.
Day 9 (Sept 15th) TAPICHALACA: Temperate cloudforest 2,486m/8,156ft.
A final morning was spent on the Quebrada Honda trail, the infamous site
of the discovery of the very first Jocotoco Antpitta to be seen by anyone
in 1997. Before we birded the trail in earnest though we waited along the
road as dawn crept up on the lookout for nightjars, and although we did not
find the hoped-for Swallow-tailed we did get great tour-exclusive views of
several Band-winged Nightjars. Things were a lot quieter than hoped,
although we did pick up a very smart Golden-crowned Tanager in a passing
flock that lingered long enough to be teed up in the scope. The same flock
also held a few Lacrimose Mountain-Tanagers, so-called due to the teardrop-like
marking around the eye. Green-and-black Fruiteater was also welcome
for those who had missed it on the earlier conference day trips, and a brace
of Brush-finches were seen hopping around the car park with both Rufous-naped
and Pale-naped Brush-finches there. The afternoon was then spent traveling
via Loja and Zamora to the extremely comfortable Copalinga Lodge perched on
the edge of the Bombuscara River, a short ride away from the lower entrance
to Podocarpus National Park. Every year this brilliantly run lodge goes from
strength to strength, with the Belgian owners Katherine and Baldwin running
a great operation there that always brings a barrage of praise from lodgers.
This year was no exception, with the superb facilities and great birding in
the area leading everyone to unanimously proclaim this as the number one venue
(and lodge) of the trip.
Day
10 (Sept 16th) RIO BOMBUSCARO (Podocarpus National Park): Foothill forest
on the eastern slope of the Andes, 1,005m/3,297ft.
With our late afternoon arrival the day before, we awoke shortly before
dawn with everyone 'chomping at the bit' to get out there and see what a great
place this is. Shortly after dawn broke the first new birds began coming thick
and fast, with the lodge set in some great birding habitat in its own right,
so that our departure for the park was delayed somewhat as a Golden-winged
Tody-flycatcher was coaxed in right by the lodge, along with a troop of
tanagers that came flocking into the specially laid-out bananas that included
both Green-and-gold and Turquoise Tanagers. We then spent a superb
day birding a wide open track through lush foothill forest within Podocarpus
park, bumping into flock after flock each one loaded with tanagers, antwrens
and other avian gems. We did not however ignore the low down and dirty forest
skulkers either, and picked up a number of these along the way including two
different Black-billed Treehunters; pairs of both Blackish Antbirds
and Foothill Antwrens; a very close Chestnut-bellied Thrush
that Marcia picked out near the park HQ; and a couple of cool manakins,
with several Blue-rumped Manakins and the much scarcer Green Manakin
which remained in place for everyone to get an eyeful. The flocks along the
trail were just great on this day and there was rarely a moment when a tanager
or other flock species was not in view. A truck load of tanagers paraded past
us by the end of the day, including the exquisite Orange-eared Tanager,
Blue-necked Tanager, more Paradise Tanagers, Spotted and
Yellow-bellied Tanagers and the striking Magpie Tanager. In amongst
all this colorful flock fare were some more subtle and less striking species
that were important target species for these east slope foothill forests.
This included several calling Foothill Elaenias, a bird so recently
discovered that it is not even in the Ecuador field guide; and a really cooperative
Ecuadorian Tyrannulet, another restricted range species that responded
remarkably well by flying in and popping up at extremely close range; a great
look at a Yellow-breasted Antbird as it bobbed its tail while calling
back excitedly; and several Ash-browed Spinetails, a frequent follower
of canopy feeding flocks. In between the flocks a couple of cool cotingas
passed by- first a fine female Andean Cock-of-the-rock, and then a
spanking male Scarlet-breasted Fruiteater for the lucky few. A couple
of very neat east slope specialty hummers were also found along this bird-packed
trail including an impressive male Black-throated Brilliant, and several
lekking male Green Hermits. One of the undoubted 'showstoppers' of
the morning was a very cool Black-streaked Puffbird sitting quietly
in the understorey that gave us all unforgettable close up views. Another
trail highlight included a pair of Cliff Flycatchers sallying for insects
from a palm within the forested valley. However, some of the coolest birds
that day made an appearance late on. Firstly, a large black shape that passed
over us had us frantically trying to find the culprit and soon after we found
the huge form of a female Amazonian Umbrellabird perched up on the
trail side, completing a brace of umbrellabirds for the trip. Secondly, a
flock of calling parrots that passed overhead and landed in a hidden tree
had us rapidly backtracking along the trail to try and get a good angle on
their treetop hideout. Luckily just a short way back along the trail we could
clearly see the tree in question, along with a group of five quietly feeding
near-endemic White-breasted Parakeets, that was undoubtedly one of
our top target birds for Bombuscaro. An added bonus in the exact same area
came a short time later while we were still 'feasting' on the White-breasted
Parakeets, when a small group of smaller parrots came screaming in and landed
right beside us, when the bright orange wing patches left us in doubt as to
the identity of this group of very scarce Spot-winged Parrotlets. As
if that was enough Nico our driver again came up trumps on the short return
journey to the lodge, when a flash of blue caught his eyes and we stopped
to admire a crippling Highland Motmot that had been the owner of the
blue flash in question. It was then back to the lodge to chill out around
the grounds, and more importantly, pick up some great birds right on the scenic
lodge grounds. East slope hummers were a priority and we picked up Black-eared
Fairy and Violet-fronted Brilliant at the feeders, and a stunning
male Violet-headed Hummingbird feeding on the purple blooms in the
garden. Less appealing maybe, although a couple of specialty flycatchers were
also welcome with a calling Olive-chested Flycatcher, and one of the
only distinctive elaenias on the planet in the form of a double-horned Mottle-backed
Elaenia.
 SPOT-WINGED PARROTLET Rio Bombuscaro (Martha Davis) |
 BLACK-STREAKED PUFFBIRD Rio Bombuscaro |
Day
11 (Sept 17th) RIO BOMBUSCARO (Podocarpus National Park): Foothill forest
on the eastern slope of the Andes, 1,005m/3,297ft and the OLD ZAMORA ROAD:
Foothill forest on the eastern slope of the Andes, 1,200m/3,937ft.
With a long drive to the southern city of Cuenca looming ahead of us for
the afternoon we spent the morning first mopping up more birds around the
lodge at Copalinga (we just did not want to leave this superb spot), and then
went a little higher up along the Old Zamora road to bird for some slightly
higher elevation east slope specialties. Around the lodge a Dusky Spinetail
was a good bird, but unfortunately this one decided only to show to the guide
and then remained steadfastly in deep cover thereafter. We then headed up
the old Zamora road, firstly seeing the scarce Golden-collared Honeycreeper,
and soon after picked up a much more expected target bird, with the the hoped-for
Olivaceous Greenlet found singing relentlessly from a vine tangle.
However, the White-browed Antbird just behind the greenlet only showed
well briefly, before slinking back into the undergrowth. However, the star
bird of the morning was found a little later when we had all but given up
hope of getting this localized foothill specialist, when a Coppery-chested
Jacamar began calling right beside us and was soon coaxed into view much
to my relief as I had expected to get that one in the park during our previous
mornings birding. With the 'job done' we then began our mammoth journey to
the city of Cuenca, although we had just enough time to make a quick stop
for a very special forest floor skulker en-route. This time our destination
was an area of upper subtropical forest in the San Francisco sector of Podocarpus
National Park. Although, before we got there a quick photo stop by one of
the many scenic waterfalls along the way there, had us reaching for the bins
again when a family party of four White-capped Dippers hopped around
on the moss-draped rocks beside the spectacular cascades. A quick wander down
a short steep section of trail at San Francisco, and we were soon all lined
up in position for our mornings top target bird. However, the first few tries
with the i-Pod drew absolutely no response, and having heard recently that
it had not been calling lately I held out little hope for getting this one.
Once again, just as were about to leave a Barred Antthrush piped up
and began calling back in earnest, and it was not long before this beautiful
forest floor denizen walked, chicken-like, straight across the trail in front
of us - absolutely superb. We then pointed our bus northwards for the colonial
city of Cuenca, making a few minor stops en-route to break up the long journey.
Day
12 (Sept 18th) EL CAJAS: Paramo grasslands (3,974m/13,038ft) interspersed
with polylepis woodland, and upper subtropical forest.
This was our highest day on the tour, as we ventured up into the high
paramos of the Andes, that come complete with their very own special suite
of cool mountain birds. However, before we hit the high spots we birded a
scenic lake that is surrounded by some very good, epiphyte-rich temperate
forest. In amongst the tree ferns and moss-laden branches we came across a
pair of impressive Strong-billed Woodcreepers; another Gray-breasted
Mountain-Toucan; a pair of the ridiculously named Superciliaried Hemispingus;
an Andean Guan, there at the southern extremity of its range; and an
extremely cooperative Stripe-headed Brush-finch. However, the biggest
surprise there was getting cracking views of a Unicolored (Blackish) Tapaculo
that did not even require a tape, as it hopped around in the open branches
of a low polylepis tree. Other additions around this tranquil lake included
Andean Teal, Yellow-billed Pintail, and a pair of very confiding
Grass Wrens. We then climbed up towards the paramos, stopping for the
localized Violet-throated Metaltails en-route. This normally straightforward
find was bizarrely and inexplicably difficult, with some heard briefly and
a possible flyby all we had to show for it, despite the fact there seemed
to an abundance of flowers in their usual area. There is always one bird that
plays up on a bird tour, and for this tour this became our 'nemesis bird'.
Shortly after we emerged up into the paramo proper and decided to lunch by
another small, scenic high Andean lake with a raft of Andean Ruddy Ducks
for company. However, the lake was not the focus of our attention but the
flaky, red-barked polylepis trees that flank the calm lagoon. Sandwiches
in hand, the main species we were after soon called from the low shrubbery
close by, and soon enough a fantastic indigo-blue male Tit-like Dacnis
appeared a short time later. Throughout our lunch at the lake playful groups
of this polylepis specialist hopped around in the bushes beside us
providing a great setting for our lunch stop. Still trying to wolf down our
lunches before the next inevitable distraction, the Mouse-colored Thisteltail
close to us had other ideas and began calling right beside us, and was
soon being watched at very close range in a close polylepis tree, while
a few bushes away a Blue-mantled Thornbill fed frantically in the beautiful
rich purple blossoms. With time waning we made one more stop in a flower-laden
area of paramo, picking up a dazzling male Chimborazo Hillstar feeding
on their favored Chuqueragua inflorescences. The same stretch of paramo
also yielded both Andean Tit-spinetail, and Many-striped Canastero.
We headed straight back to Guayaquil dropping rapidly down from the heady
heights of the pass at El Cajas at almost 4,150m (13,609ft), to near sea-level
(21m/69ft) in Guayaquil. Once there we picked up our complimetary cocktails
at the hotel and enjoyed a farewell dinner where we were treated to a poem
recital from Jeff, and bid farewell to Alison, Jeff, Bob and Marcia who were
not remaining with Martha, Karen and Polly for the short Pacific Coast extension.
Day
13 (Sept 19th) SANTA ELENA PENINSULA: Lowland coastal scrub and salt lagoons,
32m/105ft.
The trip list lept up today as we hit the coastal lagoons around Ecuasal,
picking up a truck load of waterbirds and shorebirds, many of which pass through
this area en-masse during their migration south for the winter. Before we
reached the lagoons though we made a few roadside stops for more White-tailed
Jays, a Collared Plover, several Necklaced Spinetails and
a noisy Superciliated Wren, a Tumbesian specialty that was found lurking
in the coastal scrub. Then we hit the lagoons where the activity of thousands
of feeding shorebirds and waterbirds was frantic, as we racked up loads of
new trip birds, ranging from the monstrous Peruvian Pelican to the
diminutive Least Sandpiper. Other migrants found there included a scarce
shorebird for Ecuador in the form of a lone Hudsonian Godwit, along
with a raft of handsome White-cheeked Pintails, a bunch of Royal
Terns in addition to a few Elegant Terns. A quick check on the
near beach brought us great looks at a number of very smart Gray Gulls,
with the odd Kelp Gull also thrown in for good measure. After a steamy
shrimp soup in a local seafood restaurant we headed north along the Guayas
coast for our destination - the scenic Mantaraya Lodge perched on a hillside
overlooking the Pacific Ocean. Although, I kept one eye on the coast along
the way for any migrants that may have decked down en-route. Sure enough,
a quick check on some barnacle-encrusted pipes along the shore produced a
small group of Surfbirds busy beavering away in their attempts to get
at the barnacle feast. Once we arrived at our attractive lodge for the next
three nights, only Karen was hard-core enough to chase after another Tumbesian
endemic on arrival - Anthony's Nightjar that was found a short time
later perched on a low branch where the glaring red eyeshine helped us to
pick him out in the low undergrowth.
 PACIFIC ELAENIA Ayampe |
 SURFBIRD near Salinas |
Day
14 (Sept 20th) AYAMPE: Lowland semi-humid deciduous woodland, 19m/62ft.
The lowland
woodland that flanks the Rio Ayampe has shot to bird fame as being the main
stronghold for the ultra-rare Esmeraldas Woodstar. Unfortunately for
us this rare hummer is only there for a few months each year,
and this
month was not one of them! However, Ayampe is one really cool place and provided
us with many other good new birds. A wide open track passes by bird-rich scattered
woodland and then passes into deeper woodland where the birding is just great.
For me the best bird on the whole extension showed up shortly after we had
arrived for our mornings birding, when the jacamar-like call of a Pacific
Royal-Flycatcher emanated from a small patch of woodland beside one of
the fincas along the Ayampe road. Guide and group were excited alike as this
was a bird that had eluded me thus far. Following a quick burst of tape-playing
the bird shot in, perched up in full view of the guide, and then alarmingly
shot away again. Panic set in, although within a few minutes we then found
this huge-billed, powerfully built flycatcher sitting brazenly in the open
on the other side of the road, allowing Martha to rack up some great shots
of the bird. A truly magnificent start to our Ayampe day. Unsurprisingly we
never topped that for the rest of the day! Many new birds were found along
this tranquil wooded road, including a number of very obliging Northern
Violaceous Trogons; a noisy red-eyed male White-backed Fire-eye
that flashed his white mantle patch at us; a single male Plain Antvireo;
a striking male Great Antshrike; several small groups of Blue Ground-doves;
and best of all, a busy group of Crimson-breasted Finches feeding in
the low shrubbery. Along with these welcome new additions were a number of
great further looks at some of the specialties we had previously run into
on the tour, like a nesting Gray-backed Hawk; our best looks (plus
photos) yet of the subtle Pacific Elaenia; along with more Rufous-browed
Peppershrikes, and another very skulking Henna-hooded Foliage-gleaner
that like the bird earlier at Jorupe on the tour remained frustratingly
hidden from most of us in thick cover. For the afternoon we ventured into
drier, scrubbier habitat within Machalilla National Park. With overcast skies
and this being mid-winter for this area things were a little quieter than
hoped, with an Elegant Crescentchest refusing to show, and Pale-browed
Tinamous completely absent, not even being heard at this time. However
another specialty, the highly distinctive West Peruvian (Pacific) Dove
did appear, and allowed us to tee him up nicely in the scope for everyone.
 BLUE-FOOTED BOOBY Isla de la Plata |
 This bird performed his comical dancing display, just yards away from us on the island. |
 Some great close up looks of some superb animals during our Isla de la Plata trip - first displaying HUMPBACK WHALES on the journey out there... |
 ...and incredibly close BLUE-FOOTED BOOBIES on the island itself (here seen with Martha) |
Day
15 (Sept 21st) ISLA DE PLATA: Offshore island with coastal scrub.
Our day on the island of Isla de la Plata provided us with more than a little
slice of the Galapagos. This bare, rocky scrubby island out in the Pacific
Ocean is a haven for seabirds, with boobies, petrels, tropicbirds and albatrosses
all nesting on the island at certain times of year. On the way there we made
a rapid change in direction as the huge sprays of Humpback Whales on
the horizon had us heading for these huge seasonal visitors to the area. When
we reached the area, we then watched absolutely spellbound as these gentle
giants of the sea displayed with each other, completely unconcerned by the
presence of a bunch of us looking on only meters away. A number of Wedge-rumped
Storm-petrels and migrant Red Phalaropes also picked up along the
way, just could not compare with the spectacle of these incredible cetaceans.
At this time of year the island had a bunch of breeding Blue-footed Boobies
in full swing, some of them giving the full range of their dancing moves and
displays that makes them such a comical bird, and therefore a big drawcard
for many visitors to Ecuador. This included seeing the bird bowing his head
and waving his big blue feet around. In addition to the Blue-foots, the much
rarer Red-footed Booby was also found on our way to the landing dock,
where several nests were seen of both white and brown phase birds. This bird
has had a checkered history on this island suffering a dramatic fall in numbers
following the 1998 El Niño, from a peak number of 40 pairs prior to
that to none at all in the years immediately following that huge climatic
event. Now the numbers are on the up, with around twenty pairs on Isla de
la Plata. Along with these birds a trip out to the eastern side of the island
saw us pass through the so-called 'Nazca zone', appropriately named for the
hundreds of breeding Nazca Boobies in the area. However, the real reason
for heading through the Nazca zone was to reach the site of one of the islands
most sort-after and impressive seabirds - the near-endemic Waved Albatross
that literally breeds only on this island, and the much more highly-visited
Galapagos Islands to the north. This massive seabird occurs only in small
numbers on this island, with a maximum of six pairs at any one time, with
the peak time being between April and August. This not being this peak time
for the bird there, I was pleased to here prior to our arrival that a single
bird had been in the area for the last few weeks or so. However, the rumor
was that it had abandoned the single egg that it had only a few days before
our arrival. Thus getting this impressive seafarer was far from guaranteed
at this time. Karen and I pushed on for the bird, and soon reached the scrubby
hillside where it had been, with no sign at all of this monstrous albatross,
until Karen glanced over my shoulder and calmly announced 'this is an albatross
right here', at which point this superb seabird sailed right over our heads
at really close range and then circled slowly down and landed on the headland
just yards away. A great, great experience. We then settled into another cove
and looked down on several nesting Red-billed Tropicbirds that came
to and fro from their cliffside nests, before we had to depart back to the
dock, for departure from this idyllic island. Also on the island were a number
of the highly localized Gray-and-white Tyrannulet, a bird that is restricted
to such coastal scrub mainly in the Guayas area of Ecuador, and in extreme
northern Peru only, so was understandably a major target species for us.
 RED-BILLED TROPICBIRD Isla de la Plata (Martha Davis) |
 NAZCA BOOBY Isla de Plata |
Day
16 (Sept 22nd) AYAMPE AREA: Lowland
semi-humid deciduous woodland, 19m/62ft.
We spent
much of the final day of the tour birding our way slowly back towards Guayaquil,
initially focusing much of our efforts on the humid woodland patches along
the road back towards Salinas, and later also spending a short time just north
of Salinas checking in on the shorebird bonanza once again. However, before
we hit the road in earnest we went after a calling Elegant Crescentchest
that was singing away incessantly right by the lodge, that proved to be one
of two separate birds seen during the morning, bringing our trip total for
Crescenchests to four different individuals. One of our main target birds
was another Tumbesian species, the loud calls of which can often be heard
emanating from the forest around dawn. None of these were heard on this occasion,
although a group of at least five Rufous-headed Chachalacas were seen
late on, with one bird conveniently lingering on an open branch for us all
to soak up, while Martha fired off a bunch of great shots with her SLR. Unfortunately
the Saffron Siskins in the same area did not linger, although the pair
of trip exclusive Greenish Elaenias in the same area became very excited
with a little use of playback flaring up their yellow coronal patches at us.
Other cool birds included a fine male Ecuadorian Trogon, and a few
Yellow-tailed Orioles. A juvenile Gray Hawk and a diminutive
Pearl Kite (typically perched up on a roadside wire) were both new
additions; and it was great to check-in on the Surfbirds once again
that were still beavering away on the barnacle-covered pipes. Although perhaps
the best addition of the day was the Short-tailed Field-Tyrant hopping
around on some open ground on the return journey to Guayaquil. This long-legged,
short-tailed ground-dwelling flycatcher is far more impressive than the dowdy
plate in the book, and was much appreciated by all. This was a good ending
bird for the tour, that saw us haul over 520 species, with at least 500 of
these being seen by at least one member of the group. It was then full steam
ahead to Guayaquil for a final farewell dinner, and much talk of our next
birding trips ahead.
BIRD
LIST
The taxonomy
and nomenclature of this list follow: Ridgely, Robert & Greenfield,
Paul. The Birds of Ecuador: Field Guide. 2001. Ithica, NY: Comstock
Publishing.
|
I have
written selective notes on some of the more 'important' species that
includes all of the highly-desired endemics. ALBATROSSES
Diomedeidae FLAMINGOS
Phoenicopteridae IBISES
& SPOONBILLS Threskiornithidae STILTS
AND AVOCETS Recurvirostridae PIGEONS
AND DOVES Columbidae JACAMARS
Galbulidae NEW
WORLD BARBETS Capitonidae WOODPECKERS
& PICULETS Picidae DIPPERS
Cinclidae |