Thailand:  Mystical Asia

1-21 March 2006 – Set departure trip

 

Leader:  Uthai Treesucon

Report by Charles Bell (trip participant)

Photos by Nancy Bell (trip participant)

 

 

The incredible Eared Pitta, one of the star attractions in SE Asia and one of 525 species seen on this trip!

 

 

This itinerary was designed to provide maximum opportunity to see as many bird species as possible in Thailand, including the near-endemics and species of conservation concern.  It fully lived up to its intent.  Participants saw a near-record total of 520 species in just three weeks, including 2 critical, 2 endangered, 4 vulnerable and 28 near-threatened birds for a total of 36 species listed in the IUCN Red Data Book. The number of species seen in some of the families was at times almost overwhelming:  47 species of babbler, 35 flycatchers, 34 warblers including 15 of the difficult Phylloscopus genus, 29 bulbuls, 22 woodpeckers, 15 cuckoos and 15 sunbirds, 11 barbets and 11 kingfishers, and 9 owls.  By the end of the trip, the participants were reeling as images of the many birds seen spun in their heads.

 

To see this many birds, the trip covered the major national parks of the north, from Bangkok up to the Golden Triangle, the marshlands along the coast and near the Mekong River, and then an extension down to the steamy tropics of peninsular Thailand for the Gurney’s Pitta and other tropical species, and an overnight at an island resort rebuilt after the December 2004 tsunami. 

 

The weather was beautiful though warm and humid throughout the trip.  The only rain shower was on the last day of the trip in a forest outside Krabi on the Thai peninsula.  Birding on the upper slopes of northern Thailand’s mountains was positively cool in the mornings, but warmed up to pleasant temperatures during the day.  The Thai people were gentle, kind and welcoming everywhere we went.  The food was stupendous every time we sat down for a meal, with Thai cooking living up to its fame.  The accommodations were always comfortable and often quite up-scale, though we hardly had time to notice as we kept up a rigorous birding schedule of being in the field by first light and staying out until dark.

 

Following is a day-by-day account covering trip highlights.  A complete list of species seen follows.

 

March 1 – Gulf of Thailand

 

We had arrived a day early and did a little birding on a university campus near our hotel, familiarizing ourselves with some of the common birds (best bird was a near-threatened Oriental Darter flying high overhead).  We had begun to recover from jet lag when Uthai picked us up at our Bangkok hotel before dawn to head south to the coast.  Our first stop was a marsh area, and our first bird was a Streaked Weaver, which Uthai had never seen here before.  We drove down into

 

a chili farming area – the source of the “heat” found in Thai food – and stopped at a swamp.  A White-browed Crake ran across the road and turned to look at us, allowing great views.  Then a Ruddy-breasted Crake called from the swamp.  It eventually came out, and we had a good look.  A Yellow Bittern flew by, and a Laced Woodpecker, a forest bird totally out of place in this habitat, gleaned insects off a palm leaf.  We were picking up new species at a fast pace:  Chinese and Javan Pond-herons, White-breasted Waterhen, and Pheasant-tailed and Bronze-winged Jacanas.  A Stork-billed Kingfisher flew by, with its oversized bill piercing the air seemingly well ahead of the bird itself!  And we saw the very abundant Asian Koel, whose plaintive call provided an audio backdrop for most of our time in Thailand.  We then moved directly on to the saltpans of Petchburi, where reports indicated we would have the best chance of seeing the endangered Spoon-billed Sandpiper.  After considerable searching, involving long walks on narrow dikes separating the saltpans, we found two birds in the shallows with their distinctive bills.  We also saw the endangered Nordmann’s Greenshank, which is reportedly down to a global population of less than 1000.  We were challenged by huge numbers of shorebirds in several places.  Sorting through them, we identified 28 species of shorebirds in all.  Among them were seven plovers, including the near-threatened Malaysian Plover, which unfortunately prefers to nest on the same beautiful beaches where people like to play.  We returned to our Bangkok hotel for the night, stopping along the way at a Black Kite roost, where Uthai explained that this species is likely to be split and called the Black-eared Kite.

 

March 2 – Rang Sit Marsh and Khao Yai

 

We drove to Rang Sit, a northern suburb of Bangkok, and into its extensive marshland.  The early part of the morning was devoted to ferreting out skulkers:  Lanceolated Warbler, Pallas’ Grasshopper-warbler, Black-browed Reed-warbler, Oriental Reed-warbler and Dusky Warbler.  We saw the near-threatened Asian Golden Weaver, Asian Pied and White-shouldered Starlings, Yellow-bellied and Plain Prinias, and our first member of the Iora family, the Common Iora.  We also said hello to a domesticated two-year-old elephant, giving him great pleasure by scratching his head.  Then, we turned to “temple birding.”  First to Wat (Thai for Buddhist temple) Thien Tawai, where a Spotted Owlet perched on the head of a Buddha and a small flock of Alexandrine Parakeets vied with some escaped Sulphur-Crested Cockatoos for nesting holes (the parakeets are losing to these feral birds).  We proceeded to Wat Phailom, with its bird sanctuary for thousands and thousands of nesting Asian Openbills.  And finally to Wat Phaput Thabadnoi to see two Limestone Wren-babblers flitting about the huge limestone outcrops that surround an ornate temple complex. This final stop also yielded Lineated Barbet, Asian Brown and Taiga Flycatchers, and Golden-fronted Leafbird.  We finished the day with a drive to Khao Yai National Park, where we watched thousands upon thousands of Wrinkled-lip Bats stream out of a cave high on a steep hillside just as darkness fell.

 

 

This Spotted Owlet perched conveniently on top of Budda for our birding and culture stop!

 

March 3 to 5 – Khao Yai National Park

 

On our first morning here, we entered the park at dawn and drove up a steep road.  We hadn’t gone very far when we heard the calls of a Coral-billed Ground-cuckoo.  As we got out of the van, life birds were flitting through the trees all around us.  But we elected to stay with the ground-cuckoo, which Uthai called

“the hardest bird to get in the park.”  It took half an hour but we eventually enjoyed very good looks at this elusive bird.  After a moment of self-congratulation, we turned to the other birds and began ticking off lifers one after another – Vernal Hanging-Parrot, Blue-bearded and Chestnut-headed Bee-eater, the near-threatened Great Hornbill, Oriental Pied-hornbill, Green-eared and Blue-eared Barbet, Scarlet and Rosy Minivets, Great Iora, Dark-necked Tailorbird, Green-billed Malkoha, and Bar-winged Flycatcher-shrike, to name a few.  A Crested Goshawk displayed over our heads, fluffing out its undertail coverts in a fluttering flight.  We finished the day with a quartette of woodpeckers: Black-and-buff and Heart-spotted Woodpeckers, Greater Yellownape, and finally the Great Slaty Woodpecker, the second largest woodpecker in the world after the Ivory-billed.

 

 

Great hornbills are always, well……great!

 

On our second day in Khao Yai, we got up with the chickens, or more precisely the Red Junglefowl, enjoying a handsome rooster strutting out of the mist as dawn broke over an open meadow.  We birded our way through the forest mist, serenaded by the haunting cries of the White-handed Gibbon.  We had good views of Long-tailed and Silver-breasted Broadbill, Red-headed Trogon, and several bulbuls, among others, and spent time working out the subtle plumage differences of the Phylloscopus warblers, seeing Radde’s, Yellow-browed, Two-barred, Blyth’s and Sulphur-breasted.  In the afternoon, a very cooperative Eared Pitta posed for photographs, and we watched a White-crowned Forktail gleaning insects off a tiny creek.

 

We began our third day birding a bamboo forest patch, which yielded Bamboo Woodpecker, Pin-tailed Parrot-finch, Pale-legged Leaf-warbler and our second Laced Woodpecker, this time in its proper habitat.  After three days of taunting us with its “Take a look” call, sung from the inner recesses of the high canopy, the Moustached Barbet finally showed itself.  We also saw Sultan Tit and a magnificent Banded Broadbill.  We interrupted our search for the Blue Pitta to watch a pair of Wreathed Hornbill fly overhead.  We then turned back to the pitta, which eventually showed itself in the underbrush.  A fruiting fig tree near park headquarters produced (Austen’s) Brown Hornbill and great looks at the Wreathed and Great Hornbills.  Lunch at a small cafeteria in the park was enhanced by two new sunbirds, the Purple-throated and Crimson.  Then we headed back to Bangkok Airport, flew to Chiang Mai, and drove to Doi Inthanon.

 

March 6 to 8 – Doi Inthanon National Park

 

Doi means mountain in Thai, and our first mountain was Thailand’s highest at 2265 meters (7430 feet).  We set out early and headed to the very top of Doi Inthanon to bird its sphagnum bog and rhododendron forest.  Birding from a boardwalk in the gray light of dawn, a few toots on an owl tape brought a frenzy of activity – striking Mrs. Gould’s and Green-tailed Sunbirds, Yellow-cheeked Tit, Chestnut-tailed Minla and Buff-barred Warbler.  We searched in vain for the Dark-sided Thrush, but as a consolation prize, we had good views of a Eurasian Woodcock, a White-browed Shortwing and the Rufous-throated Partridge.  Walks along the road yielded Golden-throated Barbet and Black-backed Sibia.  We stopped for lunch at Mr. Daeng’s, a well-known birder and restaurant owner, and

enjoyed a sumptuous meal of Pad Thai and morning glory shoots, while a Siberian Rubythroat called to us from above.  We ate here all three of our days on the mountain.  Later in the day, we birded a shade-grown coffee plantation sheltering under some very tall pines.  The day was filled with new species from some of the more exotic-sounding families found in Thailand:  minivet, leafbird, tailorbird, niltava, laughingthrush, mesia, minla, fulvetta, sibia, yuhina, and flowerpecker.

 

Our second day began well before dawn with a foray into the dry dipterocarp forest looking for owls and nightjars.  The Oriental Scops-owl came very close but eluded our vision.  The Indian and Savannah Nightjars were more cooperative, flying over us just as the sky turned rosy in the east.  After breakfast, we returned to the dry dipterocarp, on the lower flanks of Doi Inthanon, and saw Common Flameback, Purple Sunbird, and a pair of Black Baza.  A Collared Falconet was seen eating a dragonfly, living up to its Thai name of “Dragonfly Small Hawk.”  Then came the not-so-common Common Woodshrike. We moved on to a farm that welcomes birdwatchers, where we saw Daurian Redstart, Olive-backed Pipit, Yellow-eyed Babbler (with its red eye!), Yellow-streaked Warbler, Burmese Shrike, Oriental Honey-buzzard and Gray-breasted Prinia.  After lunch, we saw a pair of striking White-headed Bulbuls in the treetops along a road, and enjoyed Slaty-bellied Tesia, Pygmy Wren-babbler and Spectacled Barwing in the trees around a small pond. 

 

We returned to the dry dipterocarp on our second afternoon and third morning in an effort to find special birds that are becoming harder to see, due to an illegal road that has been built through park land to provide motorized access for a Karen village.  The road, according to Uthai, is a prime example of the negative impact a road can have on wildlife.  We searched and searched for two special woodpeckers, the Black-headed and White-bellied.  Very little birdlife was to be seen or heard, as the temperature climbed to near 38 degrees Celsius (100 degrees Fahrenheit).  Finally, a Large Cuckoo-shrike flew in and perched nearby, and a Chestnut-bellied Nuthatch appeared in a tree overhead.  We felt our luck had turned, and indeed it had – for shortly afterward, a small group of noisy Black-headed Woodpeckers began moving from tree to tree in an arc around us.  We then looked in vain for the White-bellied Woodpecker, and instead we found a small flock of Gray-headed Parakeet and a Black-hooded Oriole in a dry creek bed below the road.  Later in the morning, we climbed back up to 1000 meters (3300 feet) to bird more in the hill evergreen habitat and saw Brown-cheeked Fulvetta and Omei Spectacled Warbler (a recent split from Gray-cheeked).  The afternoon brought White-gorgeted Flycatcher, White-necked Laughingthrush, Small Niltava, and a Golden Babbler that posed for photos.  Then birding around our lodge, we saw our first treepie, the Racket-tailed, then a Rufous Treepie and a Hoopoe.  We finished the day with a flock of Blossom-headed Parakeets feeding on a fruiting tree, and, after dinner, heard but didn’t see a skittish Oriental Scops-owl.

 

March 9 – Chiang Mai & Fang

 

We drove back to Chiang Mai and as a red sun rose through a very hazy, hot morning, we birded the agricultural research campus of Chiang Mai University.  Red Avadavat, Siberian Rubythroat, Chestnut-capped Warbler, Indochinese Bushlark, and Barred Buttonquail were the highlights.  Nearby rice paddies produced Wryneck, Grey-headed Lapwing, House Swift and Oriental Skylark.  We moved on to Doi Chiang Dao, but did little birding as Nancy was suffering from a bad cold that had moved into her inner ear.  We drove on to the small town of Fang.

 

March 10 – Mae Fang National Park & Doi Ang Khang

 

We visited the hot springs area of this park at dawn.  As a tall geyser erupted several times an hour, we watched a flock of Spot-winged Grosbeaks cavorting in the treetops.  We also saw Black-headed Bulbul, Pin-tailed Pigeon, Buff-breasted Babbler, Chestnut-tailed Starling and Chestnut Bunting.  We stopped at a super-clean, efficient local hospital to get Nancy some medication for her ear infection, then bought a bagful of succulent local tangerines and headed to Doi Ang Khang in time for lunch.  As smoke from bushfires created a thick haze around the mountain, we headed out for roadside birding that brought us White-capped Water Redstart, Brown-breasted Bulbul, Long-tailed Shrike and Aberrant Bush-warbler.  With a deep orange sun setting through the haze behind steep hills, we saw Crested Bunting, Rusty-cheeked Scimitar-babbler and Spot-breasted Parrotbill.

 

March 11 – Doi Ang Khang

 

We awoke in our luxurious lodge to an outdoor temperature of only 8C (43F), a welcome change from the hot days, but the haze was thick and ash from bush fires fell from the sky.  We went first to the Royal Project, a demonstration farm developed by Thailand’s King to help local farmers grow alternative crops to the opium poppy.  We had a very quick view of the Grey-winged Blackbird, behind a project restaurant, and then a good look at the Streaked Wren-babbler in a bonsai garden artistically cultivated in a limestone outcrop.  Then, off to the Burmese border for the Giant Nuthatch, which was nowhere to be found.  We spent the remainder of the day birding the hills that make up part of the Ang Khang massif.  New birds included Great Barbet, Himalayan Swiftlet, Yellow-bellied Warbler, and Buff-breasted and Spot-throated Babbler.  After dinner, we spent an hour in an ultimately successful effort to find a cute little Mountain Scops-owl tooting from on high in the thick foliage of a tree.

 

March 12 – Doi Ang Khang & Tha Ton

At 6 am, Uthai called to us to come out and see the Collared Scops-owl right behind our chalet – a very obliging little bird with big brown eyes.  We spent much of the morning in a futile search for the Giant Nuthatch, which was probably nesting and unresponsive to taped calls.  We did find Russet Bush-warbler, White-tailed Robin and two beautiful rufous-winged Mountain Bamboo- partridge. We drove north to Tha Ton after lunch and went out into what little is left of the Tha Ton marsh in late afternoon.  Most of this area is now under cultivation.  We ended the day watching at least a thousand Yellow Wagtails dive by twos and threes straight down into an area of tall marsh grass to roost for the night.

 

March 13 – Doi Lang

 

We left our Tha Ton hotel at 5 am to be up on Doi Lang by first light, counting Gray Nightjars flying up from the road as we neared the summit.  When we arrived, the dawn chorus was tremendous.  Our first big bird of the day was Red-tailed Laughingthrush, which Uthai had never seen in Thailand in all of his 20-plus years of leading birding tours.  We silently watched five birds in the bush, as Uthai made the first ever recordings of the Thai dialect of their song, which differs slightly from the song of the Red-tailed Laughingthrush in Vietnam.  Then Whiskered Yuhina came along, and so did Gray-chinned Minivet.  Other good birds as we walked back and forth on the deserted road were Black-eared Shrike-babbler, Black-throated Sunbird, Buff-barred Warbler, and Yellow-browed, Fire-capped and Black-throated Tits.  By mid-morning, the bird chorus gave way to a cicada crescendo that reached almost deafening proportions.  We went part way back down the mountain to eat our picnic lunch in a field with a herd of wallowing Water Buffalo, and most importantly, a pair of Jerdon’s Bushchat.  We went back to the summit in the afternoon, where we had a very close flyby of a Large Hawk-cuckoo and photographed a nesting Crested Finchbill.  We finished the day with stunning looks at a Crimson-breasted Woodpecker male chasing a Stripe-breasted Woodpecker away from its nesting tree.

 

March 14 – Golden Triangle & Chiang Mai


We were up early again today to drive to Chiang Saen on the Mekong River.  We started in a marsh, where Nancy saw a Chinese Bush-warbler, and we all saw Black-faced Bunting and a male Eastern Marsh Harrier.  A large lake came next, with several new ducks, including Spotted Duck, Gargany, Tufted Duck, the near-threatened Ferruginous Pochard and lots of Lesser Whistling-ducks.  We also saw Striated Grassbird singing on the lake shore.  We drove on to the Mekong and went out onto the river’s extensive sandbars at this season of low water, actually crossing into Laotian territory, to see the Citrine Wagtail, scores of nesting Small Pratincole, a host of shorebirds, and a Pied Harrier.  Then back into the van and on north to the famed Golden Triangle, where Thailand, Burma and Laos meet along the Mekong.  After a brief touristy stop, we headed back to Chiang Mai, stopping at another Royal Project on the city’s outskirts to see the vulnerable Green Peafowl.  We were rewarded with good looks at four females and one resplendent male.

 

March 15 – Chiang Mai and Bangkok

 

This morning we headed up to Chiang Mai’s dual mountain – Doi Suthep and Doi Pui.  We started walking up the road on Doi Pui and looked in vain for Hume’s Pheasant.  The fog was very thick up there at 1500 meters (5000 feet), and it

was wonderfully cool in contrast to the steamy, hot morning down in the city.  Two Eye-browed Thrushes appeared through the fog.  When we reached the top, we heard Green Cochoa and eventually tracked it down, even getting some photos through the dense foliage.  After we had our fill of the cochoa, two Large Woodshrikes appeared overhead, and as we left the top, a pair of Vivid Niltava came into view – absolutely beautiful!  Then back to Chiang Mai airport and our flight back to Bangkok to end the northern Thailand part of our tour.

 

March 16 – Krabi & Khao Nor Chuchi

 

An early morning flight from Bangkok to Krabi took us into the heart of peninsular Thailand.  By late morning, when we boarded our van, it was very hot and humid, and Krabi had all the smells of a typical town in the deep tropics.  We drove up to a small resort on the edge of a coastal forest remnant made famous among birders by the rare Gurney’s Pitta.  The resort had no hot water, but who cares when it’s over 35C (nearly 100F) out.  Its air conditioned rooms with fans were a welcome respite from the heat.  A fruiting tree at the back of the resort had Plain-throated and Ruby-cheeked Sunbirds, Orange-bellied Flowerpecker, Gray-breasted and Thick-billed Spiderhunters, and a Forest Wagtail patrolled the lawn.  An afternoon walk in the forest produced Ferruginous Babbler, several bulbuls, Red-throated Barbet, and Moustached Hawk-cuckoo.  We also heard White-crested Hornbill, which thrilled Uthai, as he thought the bird had vanished from this area due to poaching of young birds from the nest for the caged bird trade.  Our best sightings of the afternoon were Green Broadbill and a male Black-and-yellow Broadbill.

 

March 17 – Khao Nor Chuchi

 

This was a full day of birding the remnant of what was once a vast lowland forest of huge trees in peninsular Thailand.  Though logging has been stopped, there is little native habitat left for the many special species of birds and mammals that once made this area their home.  Highlight birds were the near-threatened Diard’s Trogon and the Orange-bellied Trogon, Blue-eared Kingfisher, six new bulbuls, Chestnut-breasted and Red-billed Malkohas, Whiskered Treeswift, Chestnut-rumped Babbler with its pale blue cheek patches that show when he sings, Red-bearded Bee-eater which grumps from the treetops, Brown Barbet, Rufous-winged Babbler and Streak-breasted Woodpecker.  We had 53 species today, half of them lifers.

 

March 18 – Khao Nor Chuchi

 

This was THE BIG MORNING of the trip.  We set off early with Jotin “The Pitta Man” to tuck into his well camouflaged blind to view the endangered Gurney’s Pitta.  After about a half hour of waiting, a male and female foraged slowly into our view.  We watched transfixed, for this is one of the rarest birds on earth.  Researchers say there are about 20 pairs in Thailand, but the locals believe there are far fewer birds than that in this small patch of forest.  A very small population is also thought to exist in southern Burma, but no hard estimates have been made. The rest of the morning was anti-climactic, though fleeting views of

Orange-backed Woodpeckers and a beautiful singing Large Wren-babbler did their best to distract us from our thoughts of the pittas.   Finally, a new show did the trick – a Wallace's Hawk-eagle, listed as vulnerable, with fledglings, chased off a Malaysian Cuckoo-hawk in the tall trees right over our heads.  In the afternoon, we went to see two fluffy young Spotted Wood-owls in a nest at the top of a rubber tree snag, while two adults were seen flying into nearby trees.  Several days ago Jotin had paid a villager to climb up the snag and return the larger of the two to the nest after it had fallen out.  Next on the list for a very special day was a near-threatened Gould's Frogmouth sitting on a tiny nest, and good views of a pair of Gray-and-buff Woodpeckers.  We continued birding right into night, stopping to see the area’s well known Spotted Wood-owl, which every bird tour sees from the roadside, then the vulnerable White-fronted Scops-owl and a magnificent huge Brown Wood-owl.  We also heard the Bay Owl but did not manage to see it.

 

March 19 – Khao Nor Chuchi

 

We returned to the forest this morning and began the day with outstanding views of a pair of Black-capped Babblers having a private chat on a vine.  Then, after several fleeting views, we finally saw a Rufous-winged Philentoma perched long enough to see all its field marks.  We had good views of the skulking Short-tailed Babbler with its mournful song, and Tickell's Blue-flycatcher, with its rufous upper breast, was followed almost immediately by a Chinese Blue-flycatcher, with more rufous on the chest that extended down onto the flanks.  Two males and one female Raffle’s Malkoha cavorted high in a tall tree, offering neck-straining views from directly below.  A beautiful migrating (Black-backed) Pygmy Kingfisher turned around on a branch and, highlighted by a few rays of sun, showed his many colors like a fashion model on a runway.  In the afternoon, a hot walk down a mountain road (38C/100F in the shade) produced a Grey-rumped Treeswift and a Silver-rumped Needletail.  We then went into the relative cool of the forest and to a place where birds come down to bathe and drink.  As we sat quietly on a log, seven species of bulbul, a Chinese Blue-flycatcher and a Chestnut-winged Babbler came down to the water.  As a finale for our time in the forest, a pair of Scarlet-rumped Trogons appeared overhead just before we needed to head back. 

 

March 20 – Krabi & Phi Phi Island

 

We returned to Krabi early in the morning and hired a long river canoe with a very long drive shaft that put the propeller right at the water surface allowing operation in very shallow water.  We headed into the mangroves.  We disembarked on a small island and walked to the ruins of a never-completed resort, where we enjoyed good views of Oriental Hobby, Crag Martin, Black-and-red Broadbill, and Mangrove Blue Flycatcher.  Back to the canoe and off to look for Mangrove Pitta.  We saw three and heard a few more.  It was incredible to watch a pitta, which one assumes is only a denizen of the forest floor, fly across our bow.  Then we headed out into the harbor.  The tide was low and sandbars held several species of shorebirds, including Eurasian Curlew, which made the bills of the adjacent Whimbrels appear small. Also, Bar-tailed Godwit, another vulnerable Nordmann's Greenshank, and Great Knot.  Back to the mangroves, and a gleaming white Chinese Egret (also listed as vulnerable), with its diagnostic yellow bill, flew out of the treetops and across our bow.  We returned to Krabi for lunch at an upscale garden restaurant, then to a bit more but unproductive mangrove birding before it was time to head for the ferry terminal for the 1.5-hour ferry ride to Phi Phi Island.  We made a quick turnaround at the hotel, then boarded another motorized canoe for a 45-minute trip out to see frigatebirds that roost on an outer island.  When we arrived, there were many birds very high in the sky.  Eventually, a few came low enough to see their breast markings.  This plus size allowed us to discern, at dusk, the critically endangered Christmas Island Frigatebird and the Lesser Frigatebird.  We also saw Black-naped Terns roosting on a cliff face just above the high tide mark, and as we returned in near darkness migrating Malayan Night-herons flew low alongside our canoe.

 

 

Brown-winged Kingfisher is a mangrove regular at Krabi.

 

March 21 – Krabi & Bangkok

 

We walked the beach early in the morning and saw the remaining evidence of the tsunami that wiped most of Phi Phi’s buildings into the sea.  Nearly all of them have been rebuilt, and large palms have been planted along the shoreline.  We took the morning ferry back to Krabi.  With a few hours to spare, we went into some mangroves near the ferry dock and rather quickly saw a Mangrove Whistler.  We then headed about 15km north of the city to a forest patch, where we managed to see a Black-throated Babbler for the final bird of our trip.  As we returned to the van, the skies opened up with a tropical downpour, our first and only rain of the entire trip.  From the forest, we went directly to Krabi airport for a quick lunch and our flight back to Bangkok, for our last night in Thailand and a toast to an incredibly successful Thailand birding trip.

 

Species list according to Clement’s

 

Little Grebe  (Tachybaptus ruficollis)  

Little Cormorant (Phalacrocorax niger)  

Darter (Anhinga melanogaster)  

Christmas Island Frigatebird (Fregata andrewsi)  

Lesser Frigatebird  (Fregata ariel)  

Gray Heron  (Ardea cinerea)  

Purple Heron  (Ardea purpurea)  

Great Egret  (Ardea alba)  

Intermediate Egret  (Egretta intermedia)  

Little Egret  (Egretta garzetta)  

Chinese Egret (Egretta eulophotes)  

Pacific Reef-heron  (Egretta sacra)  

Chinese Pond-heron (Ardeola bacchus)  

Javan Pond-heron  (Ardeola speciosa)  

Cattle Egret  (Bubulcus ibis)  

Striated Heron  (Butorides striata)  

Black-crowned Night-heron  (Nycticorax nycticorax)  

Malayan Night-heron (Gorsachius melanolophus)  

Yellow Bittern (Ixobrychus sinensis)  

Asian Openbill (Anastomus oscitans)  

Lesser Whistling-duck (Dendrocygna javanica)  

Mallard  (Anas platyrhynchos)  

Spot-billed Duck  (Anas poecilorhyncha)  

Garganey (Anas querquedula)  

Ferruginous Pochard (Aythya nyroca)  

Tufted Duck (Aythya fuligula)  

Black Baza  (Aviceda leuphotes)  

Oriental Honey-buzzard  (Pernis ptilorhynchus)  

Black-shouldered Kite  (Elanus caeruleus)  

Black Kite  (Milvus migrans)  

Brahminy Kite  (Haliastur indus)  

White-bellied Sea-eagle (Haliaeetus leucogaster)  

Crested Serpent-eagle  (Spilornis cheela)  

Eastern Marsh-harrier  (Circus spilonotus)  

Pied Harrier (Circus melanoleucos)  

Crested Goshawk  (Accipiter trivirgatus)  

Shikra  (Accipiter badius)  

Japanese Buzzard (Buteo japonicus)  

Mountain Hawk-eagle  (Spizaetus nipalensis)  

Wallace's Hawk-eagle  (Spizaetus nanus)  

Collared Falconet  (Microhierax caerulescens)  

Eurasian Kestrel  (Falco tinnunculus)  

Oriental Hobby (Falco severus)  

Rufous-throated Partridge  (Arborophila rufogularis)  

Scaly-breasted Partridge  (Arborophila chloropus)  

Mountain Bamboo-partridge  (Bambusicola fytchii)  

Red Junglefowl  (Gallus gallus)  

Green Peafowl  (Pavo muticus)  

Barred Buttonquail  (Turnix suscitator)

Slaty-breasted Rail (Galliralus striatus)

White-breasted Waterhen  (Amaurornis phoenicurus)  

Ruddy-breasted Crake  (Porzana fusca)  

White-browed Crake (Porzana cinerea)  

Purple Swamphen  (Porphyrio porphyrio)  

Common Moorhen  (Gallinula chloropus)  

Eurasian Coot  (Fulica atra)  

Pheasant-tailed Jacana (Hydrophasianus chirurgus)  

Bronze-winged Jacana (Metopidius indicus)

Black-winged Stilt (Himantopus himantopus himantopus)  

Oriental Pratincole (Glareola maldivarum)  

Small Pratincole (Glareola lactea)  

Gray-headed Lapwing (Vanellus cinereus)  

Red-wattled Lapwing  (Vanellus indicus)  

Pacific Golden-plover (Pluvialis fulva)  

Black-bellied Plover (Pluvialis squatarola)  

Little Ringed Plover  (Charadrius dubius)   

Snowy Plover (Charadrius alexandrinus nivosus)  

Malaysian Plover (Charadrius peronii)  

Lesser Sandplover  (Charadrius mongolus)  

Greater Sandplover  (Charadrius leschenaultii)  

Eurasian Woodcock (Scolopax rusticola)  

Common Snipe (Gallinago gallinago gallinago)  

Black-tailed Godwit  (Limosa limosa)  

Bar-tailed Godwit  (Limosa lapponica)  

Whimbrel  (Numenius phaeopus)  

Eurasian Curlew  (Numenius arquata)  

Spotted Redshank (Tringa erythropus)  

Common Redshank  (Tringa totanus)  

Marsh Sandpiper (Tringa stagnatilis)  

Common Greenshank  (Tringa nebularia)  

Nordmann's Greenshank (Tringa guttifer)  

Wood Sandpiper (Tringa glareola)  

Terek Sandpiper (Xenus cinereus)  

Common Sandpiper (Actitis hypoleucos)  

Great Knot (Calidris tenuirostris)  

Sanderling (Calidris alba)  

Red-necked Stint (Calidris ruficollis)  

Little Stint (Calidris minuta)  

Temminck's Stint (Calidris temminckii)  

Long-toed Stint (Calidris subminuta)  

Curlew Sandpiper (Calidris ferruginea)  

Spoon-billed Sandpiper (Eurynorhynchus pygmaeus)  

Broad-billed Sandpiper  (Limicola falcinellus)  

Ruff (Philomachus pugnax)  

Brown-headed Gull (Larus brunnicephalus)  

Caspian Tern (Sterna caspia)  

Lesser Crested-tern  (Sterna bengalensis)  

Black-naped Tern  (Sterna sumatrana)  

Common Tern  (Sterna hirundo)  

Little Tern  (Sterna albifrons)  

Bridled Tern  (Sterna anaethetus)  

Whiskered Tern  (Chlidonias hybridus)  

Rock Pigeon  (Columba livia)  

Speckled Wood-pigeon (Columba hodgsonii)   

Oriental Turtle-dove  (Streptopelia orientalis)  

Red Collared-dove  (Streptopelia tranquebarica)  

Spotted Dove  (Streptopelia chinensis)  

Zebra Dove (Geopelia striata)  

Pink-necked Pigeon (Treron vernans)  

Thick-billed Pigeon (Treron curvirostra)  

Pin-tailed Pigeon  (Treron apicauda)  

Wedge-tailed Pigeon  (Treron sphenura)  

Mountain Imperial-pigeon  (Ducula badia)  

Pied Imperial-pigeon  (Ducula bicolor)  

Alexandrine Parakeet  (Psittacula eupatria)  

Gray-headed Parakeet (Psittacula finschii)  

Blossom-headed Parakeet  (Psittacula roseata)  

Red-breasted Parakeet  (Psittacula alexandri)  

Vernal Hanging-parrot (Loriculus vernalis)  

Large Hawk-cuckoo  (Cuculus sparverioides)  

Moustached Hawk-cuckoo (Cuculus vagans)  

Malaysian Hawk-cuckoo (Cuculus fugax)  

Banded Bay Cuckoo  (Cacomantis sonneratii)  

Plaintive Cuckoo  (Cacomantis merulinus)  

Asian Emerald Cuckoo (Chrysococcyx maculatus)  

Asian Drongo-cuckoo  (Surniculus lugubris)  

Asian Koel  (Eudynamys scolopacea)  

Green-billed Malkoha  (Phaenicophaeus tristis)  

Raffles' Malkoha  (Phaenicophaeus chlorophaeus)  

Red-billed Malkoha (Phaenicophaeus javanicus)

Chestnut-breasted Malkoha  (Phaenicophaeus curvirostris)  

Coral-billed Ground-cuckoo (Carpococcyx renauldi)  

Greater Coucal  (Centropus sinensis)  

Lesser Coucal  (Centropus bengalensis)  

White-fronted Scops-owl (Otus sagittatus)  

Mountain Scops-owl  (Otus spilocephalus)  

Collared Scops-owl  (Otus lettia)  

Spotted Wood-owl  (Strix seloputo)  

Brown Wood-owl  (Strix leptogrammica)  

Collared Owlet  (Glaucidium brodiei)  

Asian Barred Owlet  (Glaucidium cuculoides)  

Spotted Owlet  (Athene brama)  

Brown Hawk-owl  (Ninox scutulata)  

Gould's Frogmouth (Batrachostomus stellatus)   

Great Eared-nightjar  (Eurostopodus macrotis)  

Gray Nightjar  (Caprimulgus indicus)  

Large-tailed Nightjar  (Caprimulgus macrurus)  

Indian Nightjar  (Caprimulgus asiaticus)  

Savannah Nightjar  (Caprimulgus affinis)

Himalayan Swiftlet (Aerodramus brevirostris brevirostris)  

German's Swiftlet  (Aerodramus germani)  

Silver-rumped Needletail (Rhaphidura leucopygialis)

Silver-backed Needletail  (Hirundapus cochinchinensis)  

Brown-backed Needletail  (Hirundapus giganteus)  

Asian Palm-swift  (Cypsiurus balasiensis)  

Fork-tailed Swift  (Apus pacificus)  

House Swift  (Apus nipalensis)  

Crested Treeswift (Hemiprocne coronata)  

Gray-rumped Treeswift  (Hemiprocne longipennis)  

Whiskered Treeswift  (Hemiprocne comata)  

Diard's Trogon  (Harpactes diardii)  

Scarlet-rumped Trogon (Harpactes duvaucelii)  

Red-headed Trogon  (Harpactes erythrocephalus)  

Orange-breasted Trogon  (Harpactes oreskios)  

Common Kingfisher  (Alcedo atthis)  

Blue-eared Kingfisher  (Alcedo meninting)  

Black-backed Kingfisher  (Ceyx erithacus)  

Banded Kingfisher  (Lacedo pulchella)  

Brown-winged Kingfisher (Pelargopsis amauropterus)  

Stork-billed Kingfisher  (Pelargopsis capensis)  

Ruddy Kingfisher  (Halcyon coromanda)  

White-throated Kingfisher  (Halcyon smyrnensis)  

Black-capped Kingfisher (Halcyon pileata)  

Collared Kingfisher  (Todirhamphus chloris)  

Pied Kingfisher  (Ceryle rudis)  

Red-bearded Bee-eater (Nyctyornis amictus)  

Blue-bearded Bee-eater  (Nyctyornis athertoni)  

Green Bee-eater  (Merops orientalis)  

Chestnut-headed Bee-eater  (Merops leschenaulti)  

Indian Roller  (Coracias benghalensis)  

Dollarbird  (Eurystomus orientalis)  

Eurasian Hoopoe  (Upupa epops)

Oriental Pied-hornbill (Anthracoceros albirostris albirostris)  

Great Hornbill (Buceros bicornis)  

Austen's Brown Hornbill (Anorrhinus austeni)  

Wreathed Hornbill (Aceros undulatus)  

Great Barbet  (Megalaima virens)  

Lineated Barbet  (Megalaima lineata)  

Green-eared Barbet (Megalaima faiostricta)  

Red-crowned Barbet  (Megalaima rafflesii)  

Red-throated Barbet  (Megalaima mystacophanos)  

Golden-throated Barbet  (Megalaima franklinii)  

Blue-throated Barbet  (Megalaima asiatica)  

Moustached Barbet  (Megalaima incognita)  

Blue-eared Barbet  (Megalaima australis)  

Coppersmith Barbet  (Megalaima haemacephala)  

Brown Barbet  (Calorhamphus fuliginosus)  

Eurasian Wryneck  (Jynx torquilla)  

Speckled Piculet  (Picumnus innominatus)  

White-browed Piculet  (Sasia ochracea)

Gray-capped Woodpecker  (Dendrocopos canicapillus)  

Stripe-breasted Woodpecker (Dendrocopos atratus)

Crimson-breasted Woodpecker  (Dendrocopos cathpharius)  

Lesser Yellownape  (Picus chlorolophus)  

Greater Yellownape  (Picus flavinucha)  

Streak-breasted Woodpecker (Picus viridanus)  

Laced Woodpecker (Picus vittatus)  

Black-headed Woodpecker  (Picus erythropygius)  

Common Flameback  (Dinopium javanense)  

Bamboo Woodpecker (Gecinulus viridis)  

Bay Woodpecker  (Blythipicus pyrrhotis)

Orange-backed Woodpecker  (Reinwardtipicus validus)  

Buff-rumped Woodpecker  (Meiglyptes tristis)  

Black-and-buff Woodpecker (Meiglyptes jugularis)  

Gray-and-buff Woodpecker  (Hemicircus concretus)  

Heart-spotted Woodpecker (Hemicircus canente)

Great Slaty Woodpecker  (Mulleripicus pulverulentus)

Black-and-red Broadbill  (Cymbirhynchus macrorhynchos)  

Banded Broadbill  (Eurylaimus javanicus)

Black-and-yellow Broadbill  (Eurylaimus ochromalus)  

Long-tailed Broadbill  (Psarisomus dalhousiae)  

Silver-breasted Broadbill  (Serilophus lunatus)  

Green Broadbill  (Calyptomena viridis)  

Eared Pitta (Pitta phayrei)  

Blue Pitta  (Pitta cyanea)  

Gurney's Pitta (Pitta gurneyi)  

Mangrove Pitta (Pitta megarhyncha)  

Indochinese Bushlark (Mirafra erythrocephala)  

Oriental Skylark  (Alauda gulgula)  

Dusky Crag-martin  (Ptyonoprogne concolor)  

Barn Swallow (Hirundo rustica erythrogaster)  

Pacific Swallow  (Hirundo tahitica)  

Wire-tailed Swallow  (Hirundo smithii)  

Red-rumped Swallow (Cecropis daurica rufula)  

Striated Swallow  (Cecropis striolata)  

Asian Martin  (Delichon dasypus)  

Forest Wagtail (Dendronanthus indicus)  

White Wagtail  (Motacilla alba)  

Citrine Wagtail  (Motacilla citreola)

Yellow Wagtail [angarensis] (Motacilla tschutschensis angarensis)

Siberian Yellow-wagtail (Motacilla tschutschensis simillima)  

Gray Wagtail  (Motacilla cinerea)  

Oriental Pipit  (Anthus rufulus)  

Richard's Pipit  (Anthus richardi)  

Olive-backed Pipit  (Anthus hodgsoni)  

Red-throated Pipit (Anthus cervinus)  

Large Cuckoo-shrike  (Coracina macei)

Black-winged Cuckoo-shrike  (Coracina melaschistos)  

Rosy Minivet  (Pericrocotus roseus)  

Brown-rumped Minivet (Pericrocotus cantonensis)  

Ashy Minivet (Pericrocotus divaricatus)  

Long-tailed Minivet  (Pericrocotus ethologus)  

Short-billed Minivet  (Pericrocotus brevirostris)  

Scarlet Minivet  (Pericrocotus flammeus)  

Gray-chinned Minivet  (Pericrocotus solaris)  

Bar-winged Flycatcher-shrike  (Hemipus picatus)  

Crested Finchbill  (Spizixos canifrons)  

Striated Bulbul  (Pycnonotus striatus)  

Black-headed Bulbul  (Pycnonotus atriceps)  

Black-crested Bulbul  (Pycnonotus melanicterus)

Black-crested Bulbul [johnsoni] (Pycnonotus melanicterus johnsoni)

Black-crested Bulbul [caecilii] (Pycnonotus melanicterus caecilii)  

Gray-bellied Bulbul  (Pycnonotus cyaniventris)  

Red-whiskered Bulbul  (Pycnonotus jocosus)  

Brown-breasted Bulbul  (Pycnonotus xanthorrhous)  

Sooty-headed Bulbul  (Pycnonotus aurigaster)  

Puff-backed Bulbul (Pycnonotus eutilotus)   

Stripe-throated Bulbul  (Pycnonotus finlaysoni)  

Flavescent Bulbul  (Pycnonotus flavescens)  

Yellow-vented Bulbul  (Pycnonotus goiavier)  

Olive-winged Bulbul  (Pycnonotus plumosus)  

Streak-eared Bulbul  (Pycnonotus blanfordi)  

Cream-vented Bulbul  (Pycnonotus simplex)  

Red-eyed Bulbul  (Pycnonotus brunneus)  

Spectacled Bulbul  (Pycnonotus erythropthalmos)  

Puff-throated Bulbul  (Alophoixus pallidus)  

Ochraceous Bulbul  (Alophoixus ochraceus)  

Gray-cheeked Bulbul  (Alophoixus bres)  

Yellow-bellied Bulbul  (Alophoixus phaeocephalus)  

Hairy-backed Bulbul  (Tricholestes criniger)  

Gray-eyed Bulbul  (Iole propinqua)  

Buff-vented Bulbul (Iole olivacea)  

Streaked Bulbul (Ixos malaccensis)  

Mountain Bulbul  (Ixos mcclellandii)  

Ashy Bulbul  (Hemixos flavala)  

Black Bulbul  (Hypsipetes leucocephalus)  

White-headed Bulbul (Hypsipetes thompsoni)  

Lesser Green Leafbird  (Chloropsis cyanopogon)  

Blue-winged Leafbird  (Chloropsis cochinchinensis)  

Golden-fronted Leafbird  (Chloropsis aurifrons)  

Orange-bellied Leafbird  (Chloropsis hardwickii)  

Common Iora  (Aegithina tiphia)  

Green Iora  (Aegithina viridissima)  

Great Iora  (Aegithina lafresnayei)  

Chestnut-bellied Rock-thrush (Monticola rufiventris)  

Blue Rock-thrush  (Monticola solitarius)

Blue Whistling-thrush [eugenei] (Myophonus caeruleus eugenei)

Blue Whistling-thrush [caeruleus] (Myophonus caeruleus caeruleus)  

Gray-winged Blackbird (Turdus boulboul)  

Chestnut Thrush  (Turdus rubrocanus)  

Eyebrowed Thrush (Turdus obscurus)  

Lesser Shortwing  (Brachypteryx leucophrys)  

White-browed Shortwing  (Brachypteryx montana)  

Zitting Cisticola  (Cisticola juncidis)  

Golden-headed Cisticola  (Cisticola exilis)  

Hill Prinia  (Prinia atrogularis)  

Rufescent Prinia  (Prinia rufescens)  

Gray-breasted Prinia  (Prinia hodgsonii)  

Yellow-bellied Prinia  (Prinia flaviventris)  

Plain Prinia  (Prinia inornata)  

Slaty-bellied Tesia (Tesia olivea)  

Aberrant Bush-warbler  (Cettia flavolivacea)  

David's Bush-warbler (Bradypterus thoracicus davidi)

Chinese Bush-warbler (Bradypterus tacsanowskius)  

Russet Bush-warbler  (Bradypterus seebohmi)  

Lanceolated Warbler (Locustella lanceolata)  

Pallas's Grasshopper-warbler  (Locustella certhiola)  

Black-browed Reed-warbler (Acrocephalus bistrigiceps)  

Oriental Reed-warbler (Acrocephalus orientalis)  

Thick-billed Warbler  (Acrocephalus aedon)  

Mountain Tailorbird  (Orthotomus cuculatus)  

Common Tailorbird  (Orthotomus sutorius)  

Dark-necked Tailorbird  (Orthotomus atrogularis)  

Rufous-tailed Tailorbird  (Orthotomus sericeus)  

Ashy Tailorbird  (Orthotomus ruficeps)  

Dusky Warbler  (Phylloscopus fuscatus)  

Buff-throated Warbler (Phylloscopus subaffinis)  

Yellow-streaked Warbler  (Phylloscopus armandii)  

Radde's Warbler (Phylloscopus schwarzi)  

Buff-barred Warbler  (Phylloscopus pulcher)

Ashy-throated Warbler  (Phylloscopus maculipennis)  

Yellow-browed Warbler (Phylloscopus inornatus)  

Hume's Warbler  (Phylloscopus humei)  

Arctic Warbler  (Phylloscopus borealis)  

Greenish Warbler  (Phylloscopus trochiloides)  

Two-barred Warbler (Phylloscopus plumbeitarsus)  

Pale-legged Leaf-warbler (Phylloscopus tenellipes)  

Eastern Crowned-warbler (Phylloscopus coronatus)  

Blyth's Leaf-warbler  (Phylloscopus reguloides)  

White-tailed Leaf-warbler  (Phylloscopus davisoni)  

Sulphur-breasted Warbler (Phylloscopus ricketti)  

Omei Spectacled Warbler (Seicercus omeiensis)  

Plain-tailed Warbler (Seicercus soror)  

Chestnut-crowned Warbler  (Seicercus castaniceps)  

Yellow-bellied Warbler  (Abroscopus superciliaris)  

Striated Grassbird  (Megalurus palustris)

Fulvous-chested Jungle-flycatcher  (Rhinomyias olivacea)  

Asian Brown Flycatcher (Muscicapa dauurica)  

Slaty-backed Flycatcher (Ficedula hodgsonii)  

Taiga Flycatcher (Ficedula albicilla)  

White-gorgeted Flycatcher  (Ficedula monileger)  

Little Pied Flycatcher  (Ficedula westermanni)

Slaty-blue Flycatcher (Ficedula tricolor)