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BEST OF SOUTH AFRICA “Fairest Cape to Kruger” with Drakensberg Extension 12 November to 02 December 2005 Tour Leader: Martin Benadie |
This exciting itinerary covered some mega-diverse habitats ranging from the endemic rich heath-like fynbos, semi-desert karoo and forests of the Western Cape to the spectacular inland high altitude grasslands and the eastern savanna vegetation of Kruger National Park. The extension was equally rewarding with the spectacualar Drakensberg Mountains, the forests around Lake St Lucia and the Kwa-Zulu Natal midlands being explored.
The trip yielded a bird species total of 468 species, and an impressive 49 mammal species. This all whilst enjoying the local charm, cultures and beauty of South Africa, a country which hosts more endemics than any other African country.
This report focuses on all the key localities visited, with only some of the bird species seen being highlighted. Detailed bird and mammal lists attached at the end.
The
tour started off in the Western Cape, within the scenic splendour of the Cape
Peninsula. Here we enjoyed the comical antics of the African
Penguin colony at Boulders bay, the Cape of Good Hope Nature Reserve crawling
with fynbos specials like Cape Sugarbird
and Orange-breasted Sunbird, and
a scenic coastline home to Bank, Crowned
and Cape Cormorants, African Black Oystercatcher,
Hartlaub’s Gull and many tern species. A series of settling ponds in the
Strandfontein Sewage works also yielded a remarkable variety of waterfowl with
the impressive Table Mountain as a spectacular backdrop.
From here we travelled up the West Coast to the West Coast National Park. The park contains an excellent cross-section of west coast habitat types, including strandveld, mud flats, reedbeds, salt marshes and open shoreline. It is famous for its populations of shorebirds, but also for western terrestrial species. Here star birds included Southern Black Korhaan, Black Harrier, Karoo Lark, Cape Penduline-Tit, Yellow Canary, Karoo Scrub-Robin and Karoo Prinia. A stop was also made further north at the town of Velddrift for more palearctic waders and resident plovers such as White-fronted Plover, Kittlitz's Plover and the scarce Chestnut-banded Plover.
En route to the Overberg region we crossed the Hottentot's Holland Range at Sir Lowry's Pass, a range that has become better known for its beauty and its immense floral diversity. A stop was made here for Cape Rock-Jumper, Victorin's Warbler and Cape Siskin. Once amongst the rolling wheatlands of the Overberg we saw Blue Cranes and our first Karoo Korhaan. A morning visit was paid to De Hoop Nature Reserve, situated near the southern tip of Africa and dominated by lowland fynbos. Here we enjoyed views of Agulhas Long-billed Lark, Red-capped Lark, Denham’s Bustard, Cape Vulture, Cape Francolin and an awesome pair of Secretarybirds.
The
tour then headed to the Garden Route, an area cloaked with the most extensive
tracts of indigenous forests in South Africa. Among the special birds seen here
were Forest Buzzard, Knysna Turaco, Narina
Trogon, Olive Woodpecker, Grey Cuckooshrike, Chorister and Starred
Robins, Yellow-throated Warbler, Olive Bush Shrike, Black-bellied Starling,
Swee Waxbill, Forest Canary, Blue-mantled and Paradise Flycatchers, Knysna
Warbler, Terrestrial Brownbul, Lemon
Dove, Half-collared Kingfisher, African Emerald Cuckoo and Bar-throated
Apalis. This area produced
great birding set in spectacular Milkwood forests.
For the final leg of the Western Cape section we travelled via the awesome high altitude Swartberg Pass before dropping into the hot arid interior of the Karoo. Various stops on either sides of the pass were highly productive and produced Protea Seed-eater, Cape Rock-Thrush, Black Stork and Ground Woodpecker. Both Cape Rock-Jumper and Victorin’s Warbler were again located, allowing for superb views by all.
The Karoo National Park and its surrounds offer some of the best Karoo birding in habitats ranging from flat karooveld, riverine bushes and the impressive Nuweveld Mountains. Top birds here were Double-banded Courser, Rufous-eared and Namaqua Warbler, Southern Pale Chanting Goshawk, Karoo Long-billed Lark, Pale-winged Starling, Karoo Chat, Southern Tchagra, Dusky Sunbird, Grey Tit, Verreaux’s Eagle, Pririt Batis and Rock Pipit. A night drive turned out to be great fun and Spotted Eagle-Owl and Rufous-cheeked Nightjar was seen, as well as rare mammals such as Aardvark and Aardwolf. The tour then headed back to Cape Town and an evening flight to Johannesburg.
We were met in Johannesburg by an electrifying ‘highveld’ thunderstorm which was a great contrast to the dryness of the Karoo. First up on the up-country leg was Wakkerstroom with a deviation being made to Marievale Bird Sanctuary en-route.
Marievale
is one of the prime wetland birding spots in the Gauteng area. Apart from the
wetland, Marievale also offers interesting highveld grassland birding. Typical
Grassveld birds were Long-tailed Widowbird, African Pipit, Orange-breasted Waxbill, Red-headed
Finch and Yellow-crowned Bishop.
The wetlands held African Snipe, Goliath
Heron, Hottentot Teal, Black Egret, Lesser Swamp Warbler, Levaillant's
Cisticola and Greater Flamingo.
The small village of Wakkerstroom is in the extreme south-east of Mpumalanga Province. It is without doubt the prime hotspot in South Africa for high altitude interior grassland endemics and specials. The surrounding countryside is swathed in extensive rolling grassland hills, deep wooded valleys and a number of marshes, pans and dams. Target species seen here included Southern Bald Ibis, Grey-winged Francolin, Blue Korhaan and Barrow’s Korhaan, Grey Crowned Crane, the extremely localized Rudd’s and Bothas Lark, Yellow-breasted, Buff-streaked Chat, Sentinel Rock-Thrush, Pale-crowned Cisticola to mention but a few.
Kruger National Park was next up, and it failed to disappoint. The birding was mind boggling and on the second day in the park the group recorded a spectacular 150 species on the day! We entered the park at the extreme south via Crocodile Bridge and stayed at the beautiful Lower Sabie Camp, set along the sprawling Sabie River filled with massive Nile Crocodile and Hippopotamus galore. Birding in the rest camps were equally productive and allowed close up views of many birds. We then travelled north birding lush riverine woodland, perennial rivers swollen with recent rains, and flat savanna grasslands. Our second camp was the equally beautiful Letaba camp, also set on the banks of the Letaba River with Elephants and other antelope a common site on her margins…This is Africa at its best. New birds for our list were many, but the highlights included Martial Eagle, Saddle-billed Stork, Black-collared Barbet, Greater Blue-eared Starling, Orange-breasted Bush-Shrike, Ground Hornbill, Collared Pratincole, Little and White-fronted Bee-eater, Lilac-breasted Roller, Red-crested Korhaan, African Jacana, Mocking Cliff-Chat, Green-winged Pytilia, Pearl-spotted Owlet and many other raptors, hornbills, shrikes, kingfishers and weavers.
The
tour then headed back to Johannesburg via the inspiring Abel Erasmus Pass and
the picturesque village of Dullstroom where new birds were still added such
as Gurney’s Sugarbird and Eastern
Long-billed Lark. From here we bade farewell to several members of the group,
whilst others remained for the Kwa-Zulu Natal extension.
Eastern South Africa add-on: The barrier of spears
Our first stop on this leg was the Greater St Lucia Wetland Park, a world heritage site alive with waterbirds and lush coastal forest, the most idyllic of settings. Time was spent on meandering forest trails where Green Malkoha, Woodward’s Batis, Livingstone’s Turaco, Brown Scrub-Robin, Scaly-throated Honeyguide, Black-throated Wattle-Eye, White-eared Barbet, Gorgeous Bush-Shrike, Grey Sunbird, Crowned Hornbill, Purple-banded Sunbird and Red-capped Robin-Chat showed themselves. The estuary mouth had Pink-backed Pelican, Woolly-necked Stork, Eurasian Hobby and countless waders, terns, egrets, herons and other water birds. A small lily covered pond in the area had both White-backed Duck and the amazing African Pygmy-Goose on it, which was a great bonus.
We then headed for Eshowe but not before several birding stops were made in both Mtunzini and Richard’s Bay.
Richard's
Bay, a relatively industrial complex, offers an amazing variety of birding options.
A quick visit to the open pans at Thulazihleka produced new birds such as Southern
Brown-throated Weaver and Blue-cheeked
Bee-eater, whilst the quiet hamlet of Mtunzini provided shelter to some
Palm-nut Vultures in its Raffia Palm
forests.
The town of Eshowe is home to Dlinza Forest, a patch of scarp forest with a unique canopy boardwalk. A quiet amble in this, King Chaka’s old stomping ground, produced Spotted Ground-Thrush, Red-backed Mannikin, Dark-backed Weaver, Narina Trogon, Olive Sunbird, Purple-crested Turaco and a few Red Duikers, a diminutive forest antelope.
Last on the itinerary was our inland destination of Creighton set in the Natal midlands, an area of lush green grasslands. A morning walk in Xumeni Forest, a patch of Afro-montane forest, was great for the highly threatened Cape Parrot but also Barrat’s Warbler, Black Cuckoo, Bush Blackcap, Drakensberg Prinia and Greater Double-collared Sunbird. A reserve nearby with a nice piece of conserved grassland had several Blue Swallows, and Common Quails constantly flushed at our feet as we walked here. Forested patches at a lower altitude had African Firefinch, Red-fronted Tinkerbird and Lesser Honeyguide.
A real highlight of this leg of the trip was our expedition up the incredible Sani Pass to 3482 metres above sea level in the mountain kingdom of Lesotho. This is home to many special endemic birds of the majestic Drakensberg Mountain Range. Key birds found here included Drakensberg Rock-Jumper, Drakensberg Siskin, and the intimidating Lammergeier. Other good birds were Mountain Pipit, Sickle-winged Chat and Jackal Buzzard. This was a fitting finale to a really awesome trip...
Appendix: Detailed Bird and Mammal Lists
TRIPLIST OF BIRDS ACCORDING TO
ROBERTS VII.
1.
Common Ostrich Struthio camelus
2.
African Penguin Spheniscus
demersus
3.
Great Crested Grebe Podiceps
cristatus
4.
Black-necked Grebe Podiceps
nigricollis
5.
Little Grebe Tachybaptus
ruficollis
6.
Great White Pelican Pelecanus
onocrotalus
7.
Pink-backed Pelican Pelecanus
rufescens
8.
Cape Gannet Morus
capensis
9.
White-breasted Cormorant
Phalacrocorax lucidus
10.
Cape Cormorant Phalacrocorax capensis
11.
Bank Cormorant Phalacrocorax neglectus
12.
Reed Cormorant Phalacrocorax africanus
13.
Crowned Cormorant Phalacrocorax
coronatus
14.
African Darter Anhinga
rufa
15.
Grey Heron Ardea
cinerea
16.
Black-headed Heron Ardea
melanocephala
17.
Goliath Heron Ardea
goliath
18.
Purple Heron Ardea
purpurea
19.
Great Egret Egretta
alba
20.
Little Egret Egretta
garzetta
21.
Yellow-billed Egret Egretta
intermedia
22.
Black Heron Egretta
ardesiaca
23.
Cattle Egret Bubulcus
ibis
24.
Squacco Heron Ardeola
ralloides
25.
Green-backed Heron Butorides
striatus
26.
Black-crowned Night-Heron Nycticorax
nycticorax
27.
Little Bittern Ixobrychus
minutus
28.
Hamerkop Scopus
umbretta
29.
White Stork Ciconia
ciconia
30.
Black Stork Ciconia
nigra
31.
Woolly-necked Stork Ciconia
episcopus
32.
African Openbill Anastomus lamelligerus
33.
Saddle-billed Stork Ephippiorhynchus
senegalensis
34.
Marabou Stork Leptoptilos
crumeniferus
35.
Yellow-billed Stork Mycteria
ibis
36.
African Sacred Ibis Threskiornis
aethiopicus
37.
Southern Bald Ibis Geronticus
calvus
38.
Glossy Ibis Plegadis
falcinellus
39.
Hadeda Ibis Bostrychia
hagedash
40.
African Spoonbill Platalea alba
41.
Greater Flamingo Phoenicopterus ruber
42.
Lesser Flamingo Phoenicopterus minor
43.
White-faced Duck Dendrocygna viduata
44.
White-backed Duck Thalassornis
leuconotus
45.
Egyptian Goose Alopochen
aegyptiacus
46.
South African Shelduck Tadorna
cana
47.
Yellow-billed Duck Anas
undulata
48.
African Black Duck Anas
sparsa
49.
Cape Teal Anas
capensis
50.
Hottentot Teal Anas
hottentota
51.
Red-billed Teal Anas
erythrorhyncha
52.
Cape Shoveler Anas
smithii
53.
Southern Pochard Netta
erythrophthalma
54.
African Pygmy-Goose
Nettapus auritus
55.
Comb Duck Sarkidiornis
melanotos
56.
Spur-winged Goose Plectropterus
gambensis
57.
Maccoa Duck Oxyura
maccoa
58.
Secretarybird Sagittarius
serpentarius
59.
Lammergeier Gypaetus
barbatus
60.
Hooded Vulture Necrosyrtes
monachus
61.
Cape Vulture Gyps
coprotheres
62.
White-backed Vulture Gyps
africanus
63.
Lappet-faced Vulture Torgos
tracheliotus
64.
White-headed Vulture Trigonoceps
occipitalis
65.
Yellow-billed Kite Milvus aegyptius
66.
Black-shouldered Kite Elanus
caeruleus
67.
Verreaux's Eagle Aquila verreauxii
68.
Tawny Eagle Aquila
rapax
69.
Wahlberg's Eagle
Aquila wahlbergi
70.
Booted Eagle Hieraaetus
pennatus
71.
African Hawk-Eagle Hieraaetus
spilogaster
72.
Ayres's Hawk-Eagle Hieraaetus
ayresii
73.
Long-crested Eagle Lophaetus
occipitalis
74.
Martial Eagle Polemaetus
bellicosus
75.
Brown Snake-Eagle Circaetus
cinereus
76.
Black-chested Snake-Eagle Circaetus
pectoralis
77.
Bateleur Terathopius ecaudatus
78.
Palm-nut Vulture Gypohierax angolensis
79.
African Fish-Eagle Haliaeetus
vocifer
80.
Steppe Buzzard Buteo
vulpinus
81.
Forest Buzzard Buteo
trizonatus
82.
Jackal Buzzard Buteo
rufofuscus
83.
African Goshawk Accipiter tachiro
84.
Sthn Pale Chanting Goshawk Melierax
canorus
85.
African Marsh-Harrier Circus
ranivorus
86.
Montagu's Harrier
Circus pygargus
87.
Black Harrier Circus
maurus
88.
African Harrier-Hawk Polyboroides
typus
89.
Osprey Pandion
haliaetus
90.
Peregrine Falcon Falco peregrinus
91.
Lanner Falcon Falco
biarmicus
92.
Eurasian Hobby Falco
subbuteo
93.
Taita Falcon Falco
fasciinucha
94.
Amur Falcon Falco
amurensis
95.
Rock Kestrel Falco
rupicolis
96.
Crested Francolin Dendroperdix sephaena
97.
Grey-winged Francolin Scleroptila
africanus
98.
Cape Francolin Pternistis
capensis
99.
Natal Francolin Pternistis
natalensis
100.Red-necked Spurfowl Pternistis afer
101.Swainson's Spurfowl Pternistis swainsonii
102.Common Quail Coturnix
coturnix
103.Helmeted Guineafowl Numida meleagris
104.Blue Crane Anthropoides
paradisea
105.Grey Crowned Crane Balearica regulorum
106.Black Crake Amaurornis
flavirostris
107.African Purple Swamphen Porphyrio
madagascariensis
108.Common Moorhen Gallinula
chloropus
109.Red-knobbed Coot Fulica cristata
110.Denham's Bustard Neotis denhami
111.Barrow's Korhaan Eupodotis barrowii
112.Blue Korhaan Eupodotis
caerulescens
113.Karoo Korhaan Eupodotis
vigorsii
114.Red-crested Korhaan Eupodotis ruficrista
115.Black-bellied Bustard Eupodotis melanogaster
116.Southern Black Korhaan Eupodotis
afra
117.African Jacana Actophilornis
africanus
118.African Black
Oystercatcher Haematopus
moquini
119.Common Ringed Plover Charadrius hiaticula
120.White-fronted Plover Charadrius marginatus
121.Chestnut-banded Plover Charadrius pallidus
122.Kittlitz's Plover Charadrius
pecuarius
123.Three-banded Plover Charadrius tricollaris
124.Grey Plover Pluvialis
squatarola
125.Crowned Lapwing Vanellus
coronatus
126.Blacksmith Lapwing Vanellus armatus
127.White-crowned Lapwing Vanellus
albiceps
128.African Wattled Lapwing Vanellus
senegallus
129.Ruddy Turnstone Arenaria interpres
130.Common Sandpiper Actitis hypoleucos
131.Wood Sandpiper Tringa glareola
132.Marsh Sandpiper Tringa stagnatilis
133.Common Greenshank Tringa nebularia
134.Red Knot Calidris
canutus
135.Curlew Sandpiper
Calidris ferruginea
136.Little Stint Calidris
minuta
137.Sanderling Calidris
alba
138.Ruff Philomachus
pugnax
139.African Snipe Gallinago
nigripennis
140.Bar-tailed Godwit Limosa lapponica
141.Eurasian Curlew Numenius arquata
142.Common Whimbrel Numenius phaeopus
143.Pied Avocet Recurvirostra
avosetta
144.Black-winged Stilt
Himantopus himantopus
145.Spotted Thick-knee Burhinus capensis
146.Water Thick-knee
Burhinus vermiculatus
147.Double-banded Courser Rhinoptilus africanus
148.Collared Pratincole Glareola pratincola
149.Kelp Gull Larus
dominicanus
150.Grey-headed Gull Larus cirrocephalus
151.Hartlaub's Gull Larus
hartlaubii
152.Caspian Tern Sterna
caspia
153.Swift Tern Sterna
bergii
154.Sandwich Tern Sterna
sandvicensis
155.Common Tern Sterna
hirundo
156.Little Tern Sterna
albifrons
157.Whiskered Tern Chlidonias
hybridus
158.White-winged Tern Chlidonias
leucopterus
159.Rock Dove Columba
livia
160.Speckled Pigeon Columba guinea
161.African Olive-Pigeon Columba arquatrix
162.Red-eyed Dove Streptopelia
semitorquata
163.African Mourning Dove Streptopelia decipiens
164.Cape Turtle-Dove
Streptopelia capicola
165.Laughing Dove Streptopelia
senegalensis
166.Namaqua Dove Oena capensis
167.Emerald-spotted Wood-Dove Turtur chalcospilos
168.Tambourine Dove Turtur tympanistria
169.Lemon Dove Aplopelia
larvata
170.African Green-Pigeon Treron calva
171.Cape Parrot Poicephalus
robustus
172.Brown-headed Parrot Poicephalus
cryptoxanthus
173.Knysna Turaco Tauraco
corythaix
174.Livingstone's Turaco Tauraco livingstonii
175.Purple-crested Turaco Musophaga porphyreolopha
176.Grey Go-away-bird Corythaixoides
concolor
177.African Cuckoo Cuculus
gularis
178.Red-chested Cuckoo Cuculus solitarius
179.Black Cuckoo Cuculus
clamosus
180.Levaillant's Cuckoo Clamator
levaillantii
181.Jacobin Cuckoo Clamator
jacobinus
182.African Emerald Cuckoo Chrysococcyx
cupreus
183.Klaas's Cuckoo Chrysococcyx
klaas
184.Diderick Cuckoo Chrysococcyx caprius
185.Green Malkoha Ceuthmochares
aereus
186.Burchell's Coucal Centropus burchellii
187.Sthn White-faced Scops-Owl Ptilopsus granti
188.Pearl-spotted Owlet Glaucidium perlatum
189.Spotted Eagle-Owl Bubo africanus
190.Rufous-cheeked Nightjar Caprimulgus
rufigena
191.Common Swift Apus apus
192.African Black Swift Apus barbatus
193.White-rumped Swift Apus caffer
194.Horus Swift Apus
horus
195.Little Swift Apus
affinis
196.Alpine Swift Tachymarptis
melba
197.African Palm-Swift Cypsiurus parvus
198.Speckled Mousebird Colius striatus
199.White-backed Mousebird Colius
colius
200.Red-faced Mousebird Urocolius indicus
201.Narina Trogon Apaloderma
narina
202.Pied Kingfisher Ceryle rudis
203.Giant Kingfisher Megaceryle maxima
204.Half-collared Kingfisher Alcedo semitorquata
205.Malachite Kingfisher Alcedo cristata
206.African Pygmy-Kingfisher Ispidina
picta
207.Woodland Kingfisher Halcyon senegalensis
208.Brown-hooded Kingfisher Halcycon
albiventris
209.Grey-headed Kingfisher Halcyon leucocephala
210.European Bee-eater Merops apiaster
211.Blue-cheeked Bee-eater Merops persicus
212.White-fronted Bee-eater Merops bullockoides
213.Little Bee-eater Merops
pusillus
214.European Roller Coracias garrulus
215.Lilac-breasted Roller Coracias caudata
216.Purple Roller Coracias
naevia
217.African Hoopoe Upupa
africana
218.Green Wood-Hoopoe Phoeniculus purpureus
219.Trumpeter Hornbill Bycanistes
bucinator
220.African Grey Hornbill Tockus nasutus