MANU, PERU Including extension to Machu Picchu and Abra Málaga. 7-28 July 2003 Leader: Nick Athanas Participants: Bob Angier Peter Dunn Diane Lindsley Tom Schuck Linda Whittingham
The impressive 5800 m snow-capped peak of Nevado Veronica towered over us at Abra Málaga.

Manu is truly a fantastic experience. It is one of the few wilderness areas in South America that is actually easily accessible to visitors. It doesn't just cover one biome, either, but stretches all the way up the east slope of the Andes, from the lowland Amazonian rainforests, to montane and elfin cloud forests, to the cold, grassy puna at nearly 4000 meters. Both the flora and fauna are among the richest in the world, and the bird list for the reserve is over 1000 species! But it wasn't just the location and the birdlist (586 species seen!) that made this a great tour; the camaraderie of the group, the excellent lodges, and the friendly and efficient ground staff all combined for an unforgettable trip.

Four of our group organized an extension to the Inca city Machu Picchu and the high elevation areas around Abra Málaga before the start of the main tour. This gave better coverage of the higher elevation that is normally possible on our main tour.

My tripod head broke on the second day of the trip after it got piled under a ton of luggage on the train. The replacement was not suitable for digiscoping, so you will not find any bird photos in this report! Instead I have included photos that give a feel for other aspects of the trip, such as the scenery and the accommodation. Diane and Tom also kindly provided some excellent photos for this report. To see more of them, click here. Diane and Tom are botanists as well as birders; I think that gives them a huge advantage! Whenever the birding got slow they still always found something interesting to look at and photograph. And plants don't fly away...

Our trip began in the coastal city of Lima as our flights arrived in the evening. We chose to have a free day in Lima before the very early flight to Cusco the next day in order to rest up for the trip. After a little shopping, we had a visit to the Gold Museum, with its eclectic collection of ancient artifacts, Japanese swords, guns of all varieties, stirrups, military uniforms, and other such oddities. The taxi rides were an adventure to say the least.

The next day, after a short flight to the beautiful highland city of Cusco, we drove a short distance east to the fabulous wetland of Laguna Huacarpay. This is a great place to acclimatize to the high altitude as the birding is easy and there is plenty to see. The lake was full of ducks like Puna and Cinnamon Teals, Yellow-billed Pintail, Speckled Teal, and Andean Duck. Plumbeous Rails were ridiculously easy to see as they ventured fearlessly into the open. Wren-like Rushbirds and a Many-colored Rush-Tyrant were surprisingly cooperative, but the Rusty-fronted Canasteros and Streak-fronted Thornbirds proved more difficult as skulked in the scrubby slopes. While we birded our bus driver José set up a terrific picnic lunch on a viewpoint overlooking the lake. The best was yet to come when later in the afternoon we found the magnificent Bearded Mountaineer, one of the largest and most impressive hummingbirds in the world.

Next morning we boarded the train for the 3 1/2 hour trip to Machu Picchu. The ride took us through agricultural highlands and then down a steep canyon to the Urubamba river, with its resident Torrent Ducks, Torrent Tyrannulets, and White-capped Dippers. We eventually arrived in the town Aguas Calientes and boarded the bus to the ruins. This was the one day of the trip where seeing birds was not a priority! We enjoyed a superb tour of these unforgettable Inca ruins by a knowledgeable local guide named Maribel. She explained to us the history of the city and the theories about the uses of the many varied stone buildings, such as the temple of the sun pictured to the left. Before catching the train to the next afternoon we had time to bird the cloud forest along the tracks in the steep Urubamba valley. We saw quite a few birds that we did not see in Manu, including Sclater's and Mottle-cheeked Tyrannulets, Golden-naped and Silver-backed Tanagers, and Oleaginous Hemispingus.

We used a nice hotel in the town of Urubamba as a base to explore the Abra Málaga region over the next two days. Abra Málaga is the name given to the 4300 m (14100 ft) pass on the road from Ollantaytambo to Quillabamba. Between the puna, the elfin forest, and the polylepis woodlands, this area offers arguably the best high altitude birding in all of South America. On the first day we concentrated on the elfin forest on the far side of the pass. This is a long drive on a bumpy road and we did not arrive until fairly late in the morning. Along the way we found White-tufted Sunbeam, Great Sapphirewing, and Andean Ibis. Once we arrived at treeline, we birded slowly down the spectacular road, seeing birds like Puna Thistletail and Coppery-naped Puffleg. Birding was rather difficult for a while until we finally hit a big flock with some great birds like Unstreaked Tit-Tyrant, Three-striped Hemispingus, and Inca Wren.

The next day we explored the puna and Polylepis (photo right) near the pass. This involves a long hike at high altitude with no trails. It is not for the faint of heart! First you climb steeply to a ridge, then descend even more steeply through patches of Polylepis woodland to the bottom of a valley. You walk down this valley through small farms to the main road where your bus picks you up. It is one of the most incredible hikes I know of, and despite the aches and pains the next morning everyone agreed it was worth it. We saw so many good birds today I can only give a partial list. Certainly the rarest was the Royal Cinclodes, which we found in the farthest patch of Polylepis woodland, sitting on a boulder and probing through moss with its long bill. This species is considered critically endangered by BirdLife International due to the cutting of the Polylepis trees for firewood. Other good birds we saw here were White-browed and Tawny Tit-Spinetails, Ash-breasted Tit-Tyrant, Giant Conebill, Tit-like Dacnis, Puna Tapaculo, Red-rumped Bush-Tyrant, and various canasteros and ground-tyrants. In the afternoon we returned to Cusco and met up with Bob, who was joining us for the main part of the tour.

We started up the road that would take us to Manu early next morning. We hadn't gone far before Peter spotted a pygmy owl perched on a utility pole. According to the field guide this must have been Peruvian Pygmy-Owl, thought that is mainly a Pacific-slope bird. We soon left the asphalt for good as we started ascending up the side of the mountain with amazing (and sometimes frightening) views off the left side of the bus. We were happy to have a safe driver. Both he and his assistant were named José, and they were friendly and enthusiastic during the whole trip. We stopped near the town of Huacarani to stretch our legs and look at some very obliging Chestnut-breasted Mountain-Finches. After a short stop in Paucartambo we ascended to the park entrance at Ajacnaco Pass, stopping en-route for another pretty endemic, the Creamy-crested Spinetail. We had lunch at the pass before a very thick fog enveloped us that would stay with us the rest of the day. This made birding difficult but we did get a few nice birds in the occasional thin spots in the fog, such as Mountain Cacique, White-collared Jay, and Grass-green Tanager. As the fog and the chill proved too much for both us and the birds, we walked down the road to the camp and the hot coffee.

It was camping, but it wasn't exactly "roughing it"! While we birded the road the Josés pitched all the tents (including a dining tent & a latrine) and a cook prepared hot drinks and food. When the fog and the chill put an end to the day's birding we sat at the table and had hot coca tea and coffee with a three-course meal. Check out Tom's photo to the left. Rum was provided to warm the spirits and Bob produced a bottle of Scotch. Thick mattresses and warm sleeping bags helped provide a good night's sleep despite the cold.

We arose early and started birding down the road after a quick breakfast. We hit a good mixed flock quite early with White-browed & Superciliaried Hemispinguses, Fulvous Wren, White-banded Tyrannulet, and Citrine Warbler. Violet-throated Starfrontlets and Amethyst-throated Sunangels probed nearby flowers. After this flurry of activity the birding slowed and we had long periods with little activity. The weather seemed unusually cold, a pattern that would continue for the next few days, and the birds didn't like it anymore than we did. We later learned that there was a "Friage" in effect. This is the local name given to the cold fronts that sweep up from the south periodically during the austral winter. We were told that the temperature had dropped below 15ºC(59ºF) at Manu Wildlife Center in the lowlands, and the gift shop had sold out of sweatshirts! That's not to say there weren't any birds around. We had terrific close-up views of Yungas Pygmy-Owl later in the morning, then found a feeding flock that was in such a hurry we had to run to keep up! It had some goodies like Handsome Flycatcher and Gray-hooded Bush-Tanager. The Josés  proved especially proficient at spotting Highland Motmots, which they called relojeros or "clockbirds". This a beautiful section of road and the botanists among us had plenty to look at even when the birding was slow. The mountains are cloaked with a some of the richest and most awe inspiring forest on the planet. Each tree (see Diane's photo right)  is a garden of bromeliads, orchids, and mosses.

Later in the afternoon we arrived at Cock-of-the-rock Lodge, our home for three nights. This is a very nice lodge with comfortable cabins, friendly staff, good food, and great birding right in the garden. Some of the best birds we saw from the restaurant while relaxing with a cup of coffee. The fruit feeders attracted Yungas Manakins, Versicolored Barbets, and gangs of gorgeous Paradise Tanagers and Golden Tanagers. Wedge-billed Hummingbirds darted through the flowering bushes and Green Hermits and Violet-fronted Brilliants gulped from the hummer feeders. Over the next two days we explored the trails and birded up and down the Manu road. The cold weather continued, making it hard going, but we still saw plenty of good birds like Slaty Gnateater, Crested Quetzal, and Blue-banded Toucanet. Of course we could not ignore the nearby lek of the Andean Cock-of-the-rock, and early one morning we were treated to the fascinating mating rituals of the males on their display ground. One morning we took off very early to see some spectacular male Lyre-tailed Nightjars at dawn.

Early next morning we departed in our bus down the road towards Atalaya. A lone Rufous-bellied Nighthawk was there to bid us farewell with it's mournful whistles. The morning was still chilly but we found pockets of activity. The bamboo was especially productive with the likes of Bamboo & Chestnut-backed Antshrikes, Black Antbird, Two-banded & Golden-bellied Warblers, Cabanis's Spinetail, and Red-billed Scythebill. A Peruvian Piedtail put in a quick appearance, but the male Plum-throated Cotinga stole the show! As we traveled farther down the road the weather improved and our spirits lifted. We started seeing great birds right from the bus and the Josés began enthusiastically pointing out anything they could find perched. There was a flock of Red-bellied Macaws in a palm tree and then later on a few perched Chestnut-fronted Macaws at close range. Several Red-throated Caracaras sat near the road and the first of many Black-tailed Trogons was found. It was almost dark by the time be bid farewell to the Josés and crossed the river to Amazonia Lodge, where we would stay for three nights. Amazonia Lodge is a pleasant hacienda that was converted into a lodge about 15 years ago. It is one of the oldest lodges in the region and enjoys a reputation as having some of the best birding in Peru. Despite the simple accommodation and shared bathrooms this lodge was the favorite place of several of our group. The beautiful grounds, delicious food, friendly staff, and of the course the sheer number and variety of birds all make this a great place to visit.

By morning the Friage was just a memory and it was as if the birds were celebrating. The jeep track was bursting with song and the trees were crawling with birds. The antbird parade began with White-lined Antbird, Goeldi's Antbird, Great Antshrike, Bluish-slate Antshrike, and Pygmy Antwren. A pair of Fine-barred Piculets was a nice surprise, and a Johannes's Tody-Tyrant tried unsuccessfully to hide behind some vines. We found an active lek of Band-tailed Manakin which we had to pause and watch. The activity continued strong through the whole morning. A singing Band-tailed Antbird led us to an American Pygmy Kingfisher, and a bit later a pretty Black-throated Antbird put on a good show.

We knew such activity couldn't last and sure enough the sun came out and the forest quieted down. But even when things were slow elsewhere there was always something to see in the lovely gardens of the lodge. The flowering vervain bushes (see photo above) attracted and endless stream of thirsty hummers including gems like Rufous-crested Coquette, Wire-crested Thorntail, Violet-headed Hummingbird, and Amethyst-throated Woodstar. The tanagers have voracious appetites and even ate leftovers from lunch. Have you ever seen a dozen Masked Crimson Tanagers chowing down on spaghetti? Did the birds know we were laughing at them?

There were other surprises in wait for us here, like the Olive Tanager and Koepcke's Hermit in the hills, and the Black-and-white Hawk-Eagle that came soaring over the ridge one morning. We were sorry to leave here, but knew that even greater wonders lay in wait farther down river.

After a last few hours birding along the jeep track, we boarded our riverboat for the seven hour journey down the Río Madre de Dios. It was a long by fascinating trip as we left the Andes behind and ventured farther and farther into the seemingly endless rainforests. The river meandered like a serpent and occasionally split in two around large river islands. We were entertained by stolid Fasciated Tiger-Herons, delicate Yellow-billed Terns, spectacular Blue-and-yellow Macaws, hordes of swallows, and a legion of "Riverside" Roadside Hawks. After short stops for lunch and fuel we finally arrived at Manu Wildlife Center, our home for five nights.

This is one of my favorite places in all the world. It is a true wilderness area and the birds and other wildlife are abundant and easy to see. The lodge offers easy access to great forest trails, bamboo habitat, two different canopy towers, several oxbow lakes, and a riverside lick that attracts many parrot species including the beautiful Red-and-green Macaw (photo below). This lick was our first destination. From our floating hide we watched the spectacle of nearly a thousand Blue-headed Parrots circling in a chaotic mass and landing on the clay banks and nearby trees. They were soon joined by about 100 Mealy Parrots and a handful of Orange-cheeked Parrots before the stars of the show, about 25 Red-and-green Macaws, descended to the lick. Later on flocks of Cobalt-winged and Tui Parakeets joined allowing good comparisons between these similar species.

Over the next several days we sampled all the various areas. We visited the two different towers, which offered good views of birds of the high canopy such as White-bellied Parrot, Dull-capped Attila, Yellow-browed Tody-Flycatcher, Scaly-breasted Woodpecker, Gilded Barbet, Bare-necked Fruitcrow, and various tanagers, honeycreepers, and dacnises. The bamboo trails had an interesting selection of specialties like Ihering's Antwren, Flammulated Bamboo-Tyrant, Manu Antbird, Striated Antbird, Rufous-capped Nunlet, Large-headed & Dusky-tailed Flatbills, Rufous-headed Woodpecker, and
Crested Foliage-gleaner. The forest trails had a mind-boggling assortment of ant"things". Some of the best we saw at a small army ant swarm along the creekside trail where we were able to get close views of White-throated Antbird, Sooty Antbird, and Black-spotted Bare-eye, as well as the very rare White-chinned Woodcreeper. Mixed flocks had White-winged Shrike-Tanagers, Red-crowned Ant-Tanagers, Dusky-capped Greenlets, Chestnut-winged Foliage-gleaners, and others. One of the most wanted birds was the Pale-winged Trumpeter, and we finally got it at the last minute as we chased a big flock (herd?) of them down the trail at dusk.
 

The canopy tower at Manu Wildlife Center	The tower tree at Cocha Comungo,  a pretty oxbow lake.

Everyone loved the oxbow lakes. This is birding at its most relaxed as you sit in a chair on a wide catamaran and are slowly paddled up and down the lake. The birding is easy and there is plenty to see like Horned Screamer, Rufescent Tiger-Heron, Rufous-sided and Gray-breasted Crakes, Lesser Kiskadee, Spot-breasted Woodpecker, Amazonian Antwren, Pale-eyed Blackbird, and of course dozens of fascinating Hoatzins.

Finally we were out of time and had to head back to Cusco and civilization. Another Friage came up just as we were leaving, so despite the chilly boat ride to the airstrip we thought our timing was pretty good! We all crammed into the small plane for the 35 minute flight back to Cusco, where some very wise people managed to get all their Christmas shopping done after lunch...

The trip wasn't quite over. After our morning flight back to Lima we had an outing to the Lomas de Lachay reserve in the hills north of Lima. This reserve is barren for most of the year but the coastal fog turns it green for a few months. There isn't a terribly high variety of species here but there are some nice ones like the Least Seedsnipes that we saw along the entrance road and the Thick-billed Miners in the wooded gully. Before returning to our hotel in Lima, we stopped along the beach for some coastal birds like Peruvian Boobies (dozens of them!), Peruvian Pelicans, Guanay Cormorants, and various gulls, terns, and shorebirds. It was a stark contrast to the rainforests and cloudforests of Manu where we had been for the previous two weeks. We enjoyed the birds while trying to ignore the hoard of houseflies that seemed to appear out of nowhere and decided they would hitch a ride back to Lima with us...

We had a farewell dinner with plenty of good food, wine, and fond memories of our trip. It was lots of fun and I hope to see all of you again sometime in the future!
 
 
 
 
 
 

TINAMOUS (Tinamidae)
Great Tinamou (Tinamus major) (H)
Cinereous Tinamou (Crypturellus cinereus) (H)
Little Tinamou (Crypturellus soui) (H)
Brown Tinamou (Crypturellus obsoletus) (H)
Undulated Tinamou (Crypturellus undulatus) - One was walking along the Jeep Track at Amazonia Lodge allowing close study in the scope.
Black-capped Tinamou (Crypturellus atrocapillus) (H)
GREBES (Podicipedidae)
Least Grebe (Tachybaptus dominicus) - Several on Cocha Blanca
White-tufted Grebe (Rollandia rolland) - We saw a few of these pretty grebes on Laguna Huacarpay.
PELICANS (Pelecanidae)
Peruvian Pelican (Pelecanus thagus)
BOOBIES AND GANNETS (Sulidae)
Peruvian Booby (Sula variegata) - We saw dozens feeding right offshore along the housefly beach at Río Seco. What a sight!!
CORMORANTS (Phalacrocoracidae)
Neotropic Cormorant (Phalacrocorax brasilianus)
Guanay Cormorant (Phalacrocorax bougainvillii)
HERONS, EGRETS, BITTERNS (Ardeidae)
Capped Heron (Pilherodius pileatus) - A few sightings of this attractive heron along the Río Madre de Dios.
Cocoi Heron (Ardea cocoi)
Great Egret (Ardea alba)
Little Blue Heron (Egretta caerulea)
Snowy Egret (Egretta thula)
Cattle Egret (Bubulcus ibis)
Striated Heron (Butorides striatus)
Fasciated Tiger-Heron (Tigrisoma fasciatum) - Lots of these guys patrolling the rapids along the Alto Madre de Dios. Also seen along the Río Urubamba and near Cock of the Rock Lodge.
Rufescent Tiger-Heron (Tigrisoma lineatum) - Almost missed it until we flushed one up from the side of Cocha Comungo on one of our last days.
STORKS (Ciconiidae)
Wood Stork (Mycteria americana) - A small flock on a sandbar along the Río Madre de Dios
IBISES AND SPOONBILLS (Threskiornithidae)
Andean Ibis (Theristicus branickii) (X) - Good views of a pair of these interesting birds in the puna on the far side of Abra Málaga. Sometimes lumped with Black-faced Ibis (T. melanopis).
Green Ibis (Mesembrinibis cayennensis)
Puna Ibis (Plegadis ridgwayi)
SCREAMERS (Anhimidae)
Horned Screamer (Anhima cornuta) - We had distant views of this bizarre bird on Cocha Blanca, but later saw a pair close-up on Cocha Comungo. Comungo means "Screamer" in Quechua, but until recently there were no comungos on this lake! Considering how friendly this pair was we expect there will be more soon.
DUCKS, GEESE AND SWANS (Anatidae)
Muscovy Duck (Cairina moschata)
Torrent Duck (Merganetta armata) (X) - Plenty along the Río Urubamba below Machu Picchu, but none elsewhere.
Speckled Teal (Anas flavirostris) - Sometimes lumped with Andean Teal (A. andium)
Yellow-billed Pintail (Anas georgica)
Puna Teal (Anas puna) - Great views of this handsome duck on Laguna Huacarpay.
Cinnamon Teal (Anas cyanoptera)
Andean Duck (Oxyura ferruginea) - Sometimes called Andean Ruddy-Duck. We saw a few from a long way off on Laguna Huacarpay.
NEW WORLD VULTURES (Cathartidae)
Black Vulture (Coragyps atratus)
Turkey Vulture (Cathartes aura)
Greater Yellow-headed Vulture (Cathartes melambrotus)
OSPREY (Pandionidae)
Osprey (Pandion haliaetus) - Two seen on the long boat trip down the Río Madre de Dios. These are presumably young non-breeding birds that have chosen not to migrate north.
HAWKS, EAGLES AND KITES (Accipitridae)
Snail Kite (Rostrhamus sociabilis) - A single female-plumaged individual seen on Cocha Comungo.
Double-toothed Kite (Harpagus bidentatus)
Plumbeous Kite (Ictinia plumbea) - Large numbers of these in the lowlands and foothills. Most of these may be migrants from the south(?) since in May I did not see a single one!
Cinereous Harrier (Circus cinereus) - Several of these pretty raptors were working the marshes around Laguna Huacarpay and also the dry hills of Lomas de Lachay.
Crane Hawk (Geranospiza caerulescens)
Slate-colored Hawk (Leucopternis schistacea) - I scared one off the trail to Cocha Comungo, but managed to call it back with tape playback for better views.
Great Black-Hawk (Buteogallus urubitinga)
Black-chested Buzzard-Eagle (Geranoaetus melanoleucus)
Solitary Eagle (Harpyhaliaetus solitarius) - A single individual soared right over us along the middle parts of the Manu road.
Roadside Hawk (Buteo magnirostris)
Variable Hawk (Buteo polyosoma)
Black-and-white Hawk-Eagle (Spizastur melanoleucus) - We saw a single adult soaring over the ridge behind Amazonia Lodge. The white bars on the leading edge of the wings are a distinctive field mark.
Black Hawk-Eagle (Spizaetus tyrannus) - One of the memorable experiences of the trip. We spotted one perched a long way off from the tower at Cocha Comungo, but in response to playback it came closer and closer until finally landing in the tower tree almost right next to us!
Ornate Hawk-Eagle (Spizaetus ornatus) - An almost fully-grown chick was sitting in a nest at Manu Wildlife Center. Unfortunately Mom & Pop were neglecting it and we never saw them!
Black-and-chestnut Eagle (Oroaetus isidori) - Bob spotted an impressive immature perched above the river near Cock of the Rock lodge.
FALCONS AND CARACARAS (Falconidae)
Black Caracara (Daptrius ater)
Red-throated Caracara (Ibycter americanus) - Their wierd anguished screams herald their appearance long before you see them...
Mountain Caracara (Phalcoboenus megalopterus) - A striking raptor that we saw frequently in the highlands.
Laughing Falcon (Herpetotheres cachinnans)
Barred Forest-Falcon (Micrastur ruficollis) (H)
American Kestrel (Falco sparverius)
Bat Falcon (Falco rufigularis)
GUANS, CHACHALACAS, ETC. (Cracidae)
Speckled Chachalaca (Ortalis guttata) - They even come to the feeders at Amazonia Lodge.
Andean Guan (Penelope montagnii) (X) - Numerous along the train tracks west of Aguas Calientes, but not seen elsewhere.
Spix's Guan (Penelope jacquacu) - A few at Amazonia Lodge.
Blue-throated Piping-Guan (Pipile cumanensis) - We still don't know how Bob managed to spot this in the canopy behind a bunch of intervening trees... Then he found it again a few days later!
NEW WORLD QUAIL (Odontophoridae)
Stripe-faced Wood-Quail (Odontophorus balliviani) (H)
HOATZIN (Opisthocomidae)
Hoatzin (Opisthocomus hoazin) - Always a favorite. Seen in several places. At the far end of Cocha Comungo there was a small tree filled with 20 of them!
LIMPKIN (Aramidae)
Limpkin (Aramus guarauna) - A family tick for Bob on Cocha Comungo.
TRUMPETERS (Psophiidae)
Pale-winged Trumpeter (Psophia leucoptera) - We finally caught up to these on our last evening at Manu Wildlife Center. Following a helpful hint from Renzo, who was guiding another group, we chased down a large troop of these fascinating birds in the Grid.
RAILS, GALLINULES, COOTS (Rallidae)
Rufous-sided Crake (Laterallus melanophaius) - We had great luck with rails on this trip! After glimpsing bits of this one at Amazonia Lodge a few days before, we finally had killer views in full sunlight on Cocha Comungo.
Gray-breasted Crake (Laterallus exilis) - We coaxed a pair so close we couldn't even focus on them. Great views of them from the catamaran as they snuck in and out of the reeds in Cocha Blanca.
Gray-necked Wood-Rail (Aramides cajanea) - One on the Jeep Track at Amazonia Lodge.
Uniform Crake (Amaurolimnas concolor) (H) - Didn't want to come out.
Blackish Rail (Pardirallus nigricans) - Great close-up views from the "rail tower" at Amazonia Lodge.
Plumbeous Rail (Pardirallus sanguinolentus) - Plenty of these on Laguna Huacarpay. Unusually bold for a rail.
Common Moorhen (Gallinula chloropus)
Slate-colored Coot (Fulica ardesiaca) - Sometimes called Andean Coot, even though it can occur down to sea level...
SUNGREBE AND FINFOOTS (Heliornithidae)
Sungrebe (Heliornis fulica) - We caught one out in the open on Cocha Comungo and watched it swim back across the lake and up the channel it usually hides in. Best view I've ever had of one!
SUNBITTERN (Eurypygidae)
Sunbittern (Eurypyga helias) - Finally we got one at dusk on a sandbar just downstream from Manu Wildlife Center. Bob had been dying to see this one the whole trip and kindly treated us to a bottle of wine that night! It became known as the "Sunset Bittern".
JACANAS (Jacanidae)
Wattled Jaçana (Jacana jacana)
OYSTERCATCHERS (Haematopodidae)
American Oystercatcher (Haematopus palliatus) - Bob was the only one who saw this one. It flew by just as we got out of the bus at the housefly beach.
PLOVERS AND LAPWINGS (Charadriidae)
Pied Lapwing (Vanellus cayanus) - Sometimes called Pied Plover.
Andean Lapwing (Vanellus resplendens)
Killdeer (Charadrius vociferus) (H)
Snowy Plover (Charadrius alexandrinus) - AKA Kentish Plover. On the housefly beach.
Collared Plover (Charadrius collaris) - A few fleeting views along the Río Madre de Dios. Could have done with better looks.
SANDPIPERS AND ALLIES (Scolopacidae)
Greater Yellowlegs (Tringa melanoleuca)
Lesser Yellowlegs (Tringa flavipes) - Bob saw it on his visit to Laguna Huacarpay.
Pectoral Sandpiper (Calidris melanotos)
SEEDSNIPES (Thinocoridae)
Least Seedsnipe (Thinocorus rumicivorus) - Incredibly cute. There were lots of them along the entrance road to Lomas de Lachay.
GULLS (Laridae)
Band-tailed Gull (Larus belcheri)
Gray Gull (Larus modestus)
Kelp Gull (Larus dominicanus)
Andean Gull (Larus serranus)
TERNS (Sternidae)
Gull-billed Tern (Sterna nilotica)
Royal Tern (Sterna maxima)
Yellow-billed Tern (Sterna superciliaris)
Large-billed Tern (Phaetusa simplex)
SKIMMERS (Rynchopidae)
Black Skimmer (Rynchops niger)
PIGEONS AND DOVES (Columbidae)
Rock Dove (Columba livia)
Spot-winged Pigeon (Columba maculosa) - Tom found this above the police station at the start of the Manu road. There was also one in Huacarani.
Band-tailed Pigeon (Columba fasciata)
Pale-vented Pigeon (Columba cayennensis)
Plumbeous Pigeon (Columba plumbea)
Ruddy Pigeon (Columba subvinacea)
Eared Dove (Zenaida auriculata)
Pacific Dove (Zenaida meloda) - This is called West Peruvian Dove in the Birds of Ecuador.
Ruddy Ground-Dove (Columbina talpacoti) - I saw one fly in front of the bus near Pilcopata but no one else saw it.
Croaking Ground-Dove (Columbina cruziana)
Bare-faced Ground-Dove (Metriopelia ceciliae) - Neat birds. There were several small flocks of them around Laguna Huacarpay.
Gray-fronted Dove (Leptotila rufaxilla)
Ruddy Quail-Dove (Geotrygon montana) - We saw bits and pieces of one before it vanished before our eyes along the river trail.
PARROTS, MACAWS, ETC (Psittacidae)
Blue-and-yellow Macaw (Ara ararauna) - Frequent flyovers of this stunner at MWC and environs. The sheer number of macaws in the Manu area is unmatched anywhere else in the world that I know of.
Scarlet Macaw (Ara macao) - Ditto for this one, but we also found a pair perched along the Jeep Track.
Red-and-green Macaw (Ara chloroptera) - There were about 25 of these on the parrot lick on the Madre de Dios.
Chestnut-fronted Macaw (Ara severa) - Great views of perched birds near Pilcopata, with many flyovers in the following days.
Red-bellied Macaw (Orthopsittaca manilata) - We found a whole flock of these eating palm fruit near the Pilcopata airstrip. Great looks at perched birds!
Blue-headed Macaw (Propyrrhura couloni) - Very distant views of a pair of flying birds at our lunch stop in the foothills. Wished we could have seen them better.
Mitred Parakeet (Aratinga mitrata) - A few flocks seen near Aguas Calientes. Only heard along the Manu road.
White-eyed Parakeet (Aratinga leucophthalmus)
Dusky-headed Parakeet (Aratinga weddellii)
Painted Parakeet (Pyrrhura picta) - A small flock shot over Cocha Comungo; I ID'd it mainly on voice.
Andean Parakeet (Bolborhynchus orbygnesius)
Barred Parakeet (Bolborhynchus lineola) (H)
Cobalt-winged Parakeet (Brotogeris cyanoptera) - It was nice to see this sp. and the next together on the clay lick allowing close comparisons.
Tui Parakeet (Brotogeris sanctithomae)
White-bellied Parrot (Pionites leucogaster) - We all agreed it was a stupid name, but we enjoyed seeing them in the tower tree at MWC.
Orange-cheeked Parrot (Pionopsitta barrabandi) - Good views at the clay lick and also from the MWC tower.
Blue-headed Parrot (Pionus menstruus) - The incredibly huge flock at the clay lick made us feel like we were living 200 years ago. It's a common bird but it was still one of the most amazing spectacles of the trip.
Speckle-faced Parrot (Pionus tumultuosus) - A few seen near Aguas Calientes, and heard along the Manu road. I think I was the only one who saw it well.
Yellow-crowned Parrot (Amazona ochrocephala) - Matt Denton found one in his scope at the clay lick, but only Linda and I saw it before it flew off.
Scaly-naped Parrot (Amazona mercenaria)
Mealy Parrot (Amazona farinosa)
CUCKOOS (Cuculidae)
Squirrel Cuckoo (Piaya cayana)
Little Cuckoo (Piaya minuta)
Smooth-billed Ani (Crotophaga ani)
TYPICAL OWLS (Strigidae)
Tawny-bellied Screech-Owl (Otus watsonii) - We found one very confiding bird right in the garden at Amazonia.
Yungas Pygmy-Owl (Glaucidium bolivianum) - Great close-up views of one below Pilluhuata on the Manu road. The silent owl we saw earlier in the morning was likely this species as well.
Amazonian Pygmy-Owl (Glaucidium hardyi) (H)
Peruvian Pygmy-Owl (Glaucidium peruanum) - According to the books, this is the identity of the pygmy owl that we saw along the highway between Huacarpay and the start of the Manu road. In the Birds of Ecuador is called Pacific Pygmy-Owl.
POTOOS (Nyctibiidae)
Common Potoo (Nyctibius griseus) - Potoos were silent on this trip apart from the Common Potoo at Amazonia. Some of the group saw it in the scope here but some of us were taking showers at the time...
NIGHTJARS AND ALLIES (Caprimulgidae)
Rufous-bellied Nighthawk (Lurocalis rufiventris) - One was circling overhead just as we were leaving Cock of the Rock Lodge.
Sand-colored Nighthawk (Chordeiles rupestris) - Several large groups on day roosts on sandbars in the Río Madre de Dios.
Pauraque (Nyctidromus albicollis) - Bob nearly trod on one at Amazonia Lodge. There were more of them around Manu Wildlife Center.
Lyre-tailed Nightjar (Uropsalis lyra) - Nice views of males predawn at the mirador on the Manu road.
Ladder-tailed Nightjar (Hydropsalis climacocerca) - We saw a few females on day roosts on the side of Cocha Blanca.
SWIFTS (Apodidae)
Chestnut-collared Swift (Streptoprocne rutila)
White-collared Swift (Streptoprocne zonaris)
Gray-rumped Swift (Chaetura cinereiventris) - This and the next species can be very difficult to tell apart. Luckily we saw both in very good light at Amazonia Lodge offering good comparisons.
Pale-rumped Swift (Chaetura egregia)
Short-tailed Swift (Chaetura brachyura)
White-tipped Swift (Aeronautes montivagus) (X) - A large flock along the tracks below Machu Picchu.
Fork-tailed Palm-Swift (Tachornis squamata) - Recent publications rename this species Neotropical Palm-Swift, which is a better name, since all palm-swifts have forked tails.
Lesser Swallow-tailed Swift (Panyptila cayennensis)
HUMMINGBIRDS (Trochilidae)
Rufous-breasted Hermit (Glaucis hirsuta) - A few brief sightings in the garden at Manu Wildlife Center.
Green Hermit (Phaethornis guy) - A regular at the feeders at Cock of the rock Lodge.
White-bearded Hermit (Phaethornis hispidus) - One visited the feeders one afternoon at Manu Wildlife Center.
Koepcke's Hermit (Phaethornis koepckeae) - Brief views of one that hovered in front of us in the hill forest at Amazonia Lodge.
Needle-billed Hermit (Phaethornis philippii) - One fed from a flowering bromeliad in the tower tree at MWC.
Reddish Hermit (Phaethornis ruber) - Occasionally visited the feeders at MWC.
Green-fronted Lancebill (Doryfera ludovicae) - Brief views of one along the middle part of the Manu road.
Gray-breasted Sabrewing (Campylopterus largipennis)
White-necked Jacobin (Florisuga mellivora)
Green Violet-ear (Colibri thalassinus)
Sparkling Violet-ear (Colibri coruscans)
Violet-headed Hummingbird (Klais guimeti) - We saw them a few times at Amazonia, mostly feeding on the vervain flowers in the garden.
Rufous-crested Coquette (Lophornis delattrei) - Probably the bird that Amazonia Lodge is most famous for. It is a regular visitor to the vervain bushes.
Wire-crested Thorntail (Popelairia popelairii) - We saw one female on the lower Manu road then a stunning male at the vervain at Amazonia.
Blue-tailed Emerald (Chlorostilbon mellisugus)
Fork-tailed Woodnymph (Thalurania furcata)
Golden-tailed Sapphire (Chrysuronia oenone)
White-bellied Hummingbird (Leucippus chionogaster) (X) - They are plentiful in the gardens at Hotel Incaland in Urubamba.
Green-and-white Hummingbird (Leucippus viridicauda) (X) - While this Peruvian endemic is local and poorly known, it is quite common around Machu Picchu and Aguas Calientes.
Peruvian Piedtail (Phlogophilus harterti) - Brief but good views along the lower parts of the Manu road.
Speckled Hummingbird (Adelomyia melanogenys)
Violet-fronted Brilliant (Heliodoxa leadbeateri) - Abundant at the feeders at Cock of the rock Lodge.
Chestnut-breasted Coronet (Boissonneaua matthewsii)
White-tufted Sunbeam (Aglaeactis castelnaudii) (X) - An impressive Peruvian endemic that we saw in the dry montane forest on the way up to Abras Málaga.
Gould's Inca (Coeligena inca) - A recent split from Collared Inca. We only found one and only a couple of us had good views.
Violet-throated Starfrontlet (Coeligena violifer) - Common and conspicuous in the temperate forest of the Manu road. Also on the Quillabamba road.
Great Sapphirewing (Pterophanes cyanopterus) (X) - A spectacular hummer that we saw on both sides of Abra Málaga.
Giant Hummingbird (Patagona gigas) - Nice views of one in the narrow gully at Laguna Huacarpay.
Amethyst-throated Sunangel (Heliangelus amethysticollis)
Coppery-naped Puffleg (Eriocnemis sapphiropygia) (X) - A split from Sapphire-vented Puffleg. We saw it along the Quillabamba road.
Booted Racket-tail (Ocreatus underwoodii)
Black-tailed Trainbearer (Lesbia victoriae)
Green-tailed Trainbearer (Lesbia nuna)
Bearded Mountaineer (Oreonympha nobilis) - THE bird to see at Laguna Huacarpay. We had extended close views of this spectacular hummer. Peter got some nice video footage.
Tyrian Metaltail (Metallura tyrianthina)
Long-tailed Sylph (Aglaiocercus kingi)
Wedge-billed Hummingbird (Augastes geoffroyi) - One regularly visited the flowers in the garden at Cock of the rock Lodge. It looks very different from the ones I'm used to seeing in NW Ecuador - hard to believe it's the same species.
Long-billed Starthroat (Heliomaster longirostris) - Fed from the same flowering bromeliad as the Needle-billed Hermit.
Amethyst Woodstar (Calliphlox amethystina) - One morning it came to the verbain bushes at Amazonia.
White-bellied Woodstar (Chaetocercus mulsant)
TROGONS (Trogonidae)
White-tailed Trogon (Trogon viridis)
Violaceous Trogon (Trogon violaceus)
Collared Trogon (Trogon collaris)
Masked Trogon (Trogon personatus)
Blue-crowned Trogon (Trogon curucui)
Black-tailed Trogon (Trogon melanurus)
Crested Quetzal (Pharomachrus antisianus) - A male came in and serenaded us during our breakfast on that unusually cold morning on the middle Manu road. Close-up scope views.
Golden-headed Quetzal (Pharomachrus auriceps) - We saw them several times along the Manu road.
Pavonine Quetzal (Pharomachrus pavoninus) (H) - Too far away...
KINGFISHERS (Alcedinidae)
Ringed Kingfisher (Ceryle torquata)
Amazon Kingfisher (Chloroceryle amazona)
Green Kingfisher (Chloroceryle americana)
Green-and-rufous Kingfisher (Chloroceryle inda) - Briefly at Cocha Blanca. Not all of us saw it.
American Pygmy Kingfisher (Chloroceryle aenea) - Tracking down the Band-tailed Antbird at Amazonia led us to this little gem, perched a meter above a narrow channel.
MOTMOTS (Momotidae)
Blue-crowned Motmot (Momotus momota)
Highland Motmot (Momotus aequatorialis) - Formerly considered a race of Blue-crowned Motmot. The bus driver was really good at finding these guys.
Broad-billed Motmot (Electron platyrhynchum) - The poor chap had no tail...
JACAMARS (Galbulidae)
Chestnut Jacamar (Galbalcyrhynchus purusianus) - Sometimes called Purus Jacamar. We saw these neat long-billed birds along both Cocha Blanca and Cocha Comungo.
Bluish-fronted Jacamar (Galbula cyanescens)
Great Jacamar (Jacamerops aureus) - Good views of one right near the bar at Manu Wildlife Center.
PUFFBIRDS (Bucconidae)
Striolated Puffbird (Nystalus striolatus) (H) - This one's always tough to spot.
Rufous-capped Nunlet (Nonnula ruficapilla) - Split from Gray-cheeked Nunlet (N. frontalis). Seen in the bamboo on the antthrush trail at MWC.
Black-fronted Nunbird (Monasa nigrifrons)
White-fronted Nunbird (Monasa morphoeus)
Swallow-wing (Chelidoptera tenebrosa) - Often called Swallow-winged Puffbird.
BARBETS (Capitonidae)
Gilded Barbet (Capito auratus) - A recent split from Black-spotted Barbet (C. niger).
Lemon-throated Barbet (Eubucco richardsoni)
Versicolored Barbet (Eubucco versicolor) - This brilliant bird occasionally came to the fruit feeders at Cock of the rock Lodge.
TOUCANS (Ramphastidae)
Black-throated Toucanet (Aulacorhynchus atrogularis) - A brand-new name. Clements recently accepted a proposal to split the Emerald Toucanet into no less than seven different species! This is one of them. We saw them in lowland riverine forest at Amazonia Lodge and Manu Wildlife Center. I thought it was odd that they are in lowland forest here while in Ecuador they are only in subtropical and temperate forest. Now the Ecuador birds are a differerent species, Andean Toucanet (A. albivitta), so I can sleep easier now...
Blue-banded Toucanet (Aulacorhynchus coeruleicinctis) - It took a bit of searching but we finally found the bird "singing in the rain" along the Manu road above San Pedro.
Chestnut-eared Araçari (Pteroglossus castanotis)
Gray-breasted Mountain-Toucan (Andigena hypoglauca) (H)
Golden-collared Toucanet (Selenidera reinwardtii) - We saw them a couple of times, and were even treated to the "oil-derrick" display of a singing male.
Channel-billed Toucan (Ramphastos vitellinus) (H) - This race (culminatus) is often regarded as a distinct species (Yellow-ridged Toucan).
White-throated Toucan (Ramphastos tucanus) - This race (cuvieri) is often regarded as a distinct species (Cuvier's Toucan).
WOODPECKERS AND ALLIES (Picidae)
Bar-breasted Piculet (Picumnus aurifrons) - Brief views in a mixed flock at Manu Wildlife Center.
Ocellated Piculet (Picumnus dorbygnianus) (X) - Great close-up views of a pair just outside of Aguas Calientes.
Fine-barred Piculet (Picumnus subtilis) - Again, nice close-ups of a cute pair along the jeep track at Amazonia. A Peruvian endemic and one of my lifers on the trip.
Yellow-tufted Woodpecker (Melanerpes cruentatus)
Little Woodpecker (Veniliornis passerinus)
Golden-green Woodpecker (Piculus chrysochloros) (H)
Golden-olive Woodpecker (Piculus rubiginosus)
Crimson-mantled Woodpecker (Piculus rivolii)
Spot-breasted Woodpecker (Colaptes punctigula)
Andean Flicker (Colaptes rupicola) - A great high-Andean woodpecker that we saw at Abra Malaga. Bob also saw it at Laguna Huacarpay.
Scaly-breasted Woodpecker (Celeus grammicus) - A truly spectacular woodpecker that we got to look down on from the Comungo tower!
Cream-colored Woodpecker (Celeus flavus) - A pair of this unique bird visited us in the Comungo tower tree.
Rufous-headed Woodpecker (Celeus spectabilis) - Truly one of my favorite birds in the world. I hadn't seen one for over two years until Matt Denton tipped us off to this one. Dynamite views on the antthrush trail at MWC.
Lineated Woodpecker (Dryocopus lineatus)
Crimson-crested Woodpecker (Campephilus melanoleucos)
OVENBIRDS (Furnariidae)
Coastal Miner (Geositta peruviana) - Lots of these sprinting across the desert along the entrance road to Lomas de Lachay.
Thick-billed Miner (Geositta crassirostris) - Our main target at Lomas de Lachay. Nice views of a pair climbing up a boulder.
Slender-billed Miner (Geositta tenuirostris) (X) - We stumbled breathlessly onto one on the hike up to the ridge at Abra Málaga. A long-overdue lifer for me.
Bar-winged Cinclodes (Cinclodes fuscus)
Royal Cinclodes (Cinclodes aricomae) (X) - A mythical bird of the dwindling polylepis woodlands of Abra Málaga. I had been searching all morning for it when, miraculously, one appeared just as we were about to leave. We watched it use its long, curved bill to probe through moss on a boulder among the polylepis trees. A lifer for all.
White-winged Cinclodes (Cinclodes atacamensis) (X)
Pale-legged Hornero (Furnarius leucopus)
White-browed Tit-Spinetail (Leptasthenura xenothorax) (X) - A pretty bird that inhabits the same polylepis woodland as the Royal Cinclodes. Nice views.
Tawny Tit-Spinetail (Leptasthenura yanacensis) (X) - Ditto!
Wren-like Rushbird (Phleocryptes melanops) - They were especially confiding on our visit to Laguna Huacarpay, hopping around in the swamp and ticking away like geiger counters.
Azara's Spinetail (Synallaxis azarae)
Dark-breasted Spinetail (Synallaxis albigularis)
Cabanis' Spinetail (Synallaxis cabanisi) - We managed to coax one into view in the foothill bamboo along the lower Manu road.
Plain-crowned Spinetail (Synallaxis gujanensis)
Creamy-crested Spinetail (Cranioleuca albicapilla) - Always a nice bird to see, we found a pair in the usual stakeout between Paucartambo and Ajacnaco Pass. Another Peruvian endemic.
Marcapata Spinetail (Cranioleuca marcapatae) (X) - Rather poor views in mixed flocks in the elfin forest on the Quillabamba road.
Ash-browed Spinetail (Cranioleuca curtata)
Puna Thistletail (Schizoeaca helleri) (X) - Good views of this one though, in the same area.
Rusty-fronted Canastero (Asthenes ottonis) - They were difficult for us, but we finally managed a good look towards the end of the day at Huacarpay.
Cordilleran Canastero (Asthenes modesta) (X) - On the Polylepis hike.
Line-fronted Canastero (Asthenes urubambensis) (X) - Ditto.
Plain Softtail (Phacellodomus fusciceps)
Streak-fronted Thornbird (Phacellodomus striaticeps) - Difficult. Just brief views for some of us at Huacarpay, but Bob was luckier on his visit and saw them well several times.
Spotted Barbtail (Premnoplex brunnescens)
Pearled Treerunner (Margarornis squamiger)
Rufous-tailed Xenops (Xenops milleri) - A good view is a mixed flock at Manu Wildlife Center.
Slender-billed Xenops (Xenops tenuirostris) - We called one into the Comungo tower tree for great views.
Plain Xenops (Xenops minutus)
Streaked Xenops (Xenops rutilans) (X)
Montane Foliage-gleaner (Anabacerthia striaticollis)
Streaked Tuftedcheek (Pseudocolaptes boissonneautii) - Where were they? I saw one once in a mixed flock below Pilluhuata but no one else got onto it.
Striped Treehunter (Thripadectes holostictus)
Black-billed Treehunter (Thripadectes melanorhynchus) (H)
Peruvian Recurvebill (Simoxenops ucayalae) - One that got away. I saw it well, but by the time the rest got onto it there was nothing but a tail showing and that quickly vanished too. Never responded to the tape.
Chestnut-winged Hookbill (Ancistrops strigilatus)
Chestnut-winged Foliage-gleaner (Philydor erythropterus)
Rufous-rumped Foliage-gleaner (Philydor erythrocercus) - A tough one to ID, but this one behaved well and even preened, showing off its rufous rump.
Buff-fronted Foliage-gleaner (Philydor rufus)
Crested Foliage-gleaner (Automolus dorsalis) - AKA Dusky-cheeked or Bamboo Foliage-gleaner. Good, clear views of one on the MWC antthrush trail.
Buff-throated Foliage-gleaner (Automolus ochrolaemus) (H)
Chestnut-crowned Foliage-gleaner (Automolus rufipileatus)
Olive-backed Foliage-gleaner (Automolus infuscatus)
Ruddy Foliage-gleaner (Automolus rubiginosus) (H)
Black-tailed Leaftosser (Sclerurus caudacutus) (H)
WOODCREEPERS (Dendrocolaptidae)
White-chinned Woodcreeper (Dendrocincla merula) - A very nice surprise at a small army ant swarm at MWC. I was expecting Plain-brown, but as we approached closer it became clear that they were the much-rarer White-chinned. A lifer for all.
Long-tailed Woodcreeper (Deconychura longicauda) (H)
Olivaceous Woodcreeper (Sittasomus griseicapillus)
Wedge-billed Woodcreeper (Glyphorynchus spirurus)
Long-billed Woodcreeper (Nasica longirostris) (H)
Cinnamon-throated Woodcreeper (Dendrexetastes rufigula)
Strong-billed Woodcreeper (Xiphocolaptes promeropirhynchus) - Got it on the grid at MWC just after seeing the trumpeters.
Amazonian Barred-Woodcreeper (Dendrocolaptes certhia) (H)
Straight-billed Woodcreeper (Xiphorhynchus picus) (H)
Spix's Woodcreeper (Xiphorhynchus spixii) - This race (elegans) is often considered a distinct species (Elegant Woodcreeper).
Buff-throated Woodcreeper (Xiphorhynchus guttatus)
Olive-backed Woodcreeper (Xiphorhynchus triangularis)
Montane Woodcreeper (Lepidocolaptes lacrymiger)
Red-billed Scythebill (Campylorhamphus trochilirostris) - Fairly common in lowland and foothill bamboo. It has a similar song to Black-banded Woodcreeper and even responds vigorously to it!!
TYPICAL ANTBIRDS (Thamnophilidae) - One of the most amazing things about the Manu area is the incredible number and diversity of antbirds. Nowhere else in the world can you see so many so easily. On this tour we saw over 40 species, and on a trip in May I saw over 50! Seeing so many gives one a greater appreciation for this rich family.
Fasciated Antshrike (Cymbilaimus lineatus) (H)
Bamboo Antshrike (Cymbilaimus sanctaemariae) - Seen well in bamboo in a number of different sites.
Great Antshrike (Taraba major)
Barred Antshrike (Thamnophilus doliatus)
Chestnut-backed Antshrike (Thamnophilus palliatus) - A beautifully-patterned antshrike that we saw well one afternoon near San Pedro.
White-shouldered Antshrike (Thamnophilus aethiops) - Nice looks at a male in the hill forest above Amazonia.
Uniform Antshrike (Thamnophilus unicolor) - We actually scoped one at close range along the Manu road above Cock of the Rock Lodge.
Plain-winged Antshrike (Thamnophilus schistaceus)
Variable Antshrike (Thamnophilus caerulescens) (X) - We saw quite a lot of them in mixed flocks near Aguas Calientes.
Spot-winged Antshrike (Pygiptila stellaris)
Dusky-throated Antshrike (Thamnomanes ardesiacus)
Bluish-slate Antshrike (Thamnomanes schistogynus) - A very common resident of lowland forest understory.
Pygmy Antwren (Myrmotherula brachyura)
Sclater's Antwren (Myrmotherula sclateri) (H)
Amazonian Antwren (Myrmotherula multostriata) - Sometimes called Amazonian Streaked-Antwren. Peter found one for us along the edge of Cocha Blanca.
Stripe-chested Antwren (Myrmotherula longicauda)
Plain-throated Antwren (Myrmotherula hauxwelli)
Stipple-throated Antwren (Myrmotherula haematonota) - Great looks at a responsive male in an understory flock at Manu Wildlife Center. Beautiful when seen well.
Ornate Antwren (Myrmotherula ornata) (H)
Rufous-tailed Antwren (Myrmotherula erythrura) - It came in just after we saw the Stipple-throated Antwren.
White-flanked Antwren (Myrmotherula axillaris)
Slaty Antwren (Myrmotherula schisticolor)
Long-winged Antwren (Myrmotherula longipennis) - Great looks at a male in a mixed flock at MWC.
Ihering's Antwren (Myrmotherula iheringi) - Lucked out with this as we found a confiding male close-by at the start of the antthrush trail. A lifer for all!
Gray Antwren (Myrmotherula menetriesii)
Banded Antwren (Dichrozona cincta) - Most people call this Banded Antbird. I have no idea why Clements chose to call it an antwren.  One of my favorite antbirds. It's amazing how a bird with such tiny legs can run so fast... We saw it along the trail to the tower at MWC.
Yellow-breasted Antwren (Herpsilochmus axillaris) (H)
Dot-winged Antwren (Microrhopias quixensis)
Striated Antbird (Drymophila devillei) - Finally got one on the last afternoon at MWC in the Bamboo grid.
Long-tailed Antbird (Drymophila caudata) (H)
Chestnut-shouldered Antwren (Terenura humeralis) (H) - A bird of the high canopy. Almost imposible to see unless you are in a tower, and we weren't!
Gray Antbird (Cercomacra cinerascens) - Amazingly, one descended to eye-level near the lake at Amazonia. A common bird but this was the best I had ever seen it.
Blackish Antbird (Cercomacra nigrescens) - Great views along the antthrush trail.
Black Antbird (Cercomacra serva) - We saw it fairly well through a hole in the foothill bamboo on the Manu road. It was singing but never seemed to respond to playback.
Manu Antbird (Cercomacra manu) - Another one for the antthrush trail at Manu Wildlife Center. Most of us saw it pretty well.
White-backed Fire-eye (Pyriglena leuconota) - I had a brief glimpse, but everyone else just heard it. It never came close enough.
White-browed Antbird (Myrmoborus leucophrys)
Black-faced Antbird (Myrmoborus myotherinus)
Warbling Antbird (Hypocnemis cantator)
Band-tailed Antbird (Hypocnemoides maculicauda) - Terrific views near the lake at Amazonia, flitting around below a Pygmy Kingfisher. We saw it again later on the bamboo grid at MWC.
Spot-winged Antbird (Percnostola leucostigma) - A responsive pair near the road crew on the Manu road. Despite being responsive they were hard to see well since they kept moving around.
White-lined Antbird (Percnostola lophotes) - Quite numerous along the jeep track at Amazonia and on the antthrush trail at MWC.
Southern Chestnut-tailed Antbird (Myrmeciza hemimelaena) - A common bird, but we only saw it well once on the trails at MWC.
Plumbeous Antbird (Myrmeciza hyperythra) (H)
Goeldi's Antbird (Myrmeciza goeldii) - We got it once along the jeep track, but never saw it again.
Sooty Antbird (Myrmeciza fortis) - A pair was at the antswarm at MWC allowing superb views.
Black-throated Antbird (Myrmeciza atrothorax) - Great views for all near the lake at Amazonia.
White-throated Antbird (Gymnopithys salvini) - At least four were attending the antswarm. Unforgettable closeup views of males and females.
Hairy-crested Antbird (Rhegmatorhina melanosticta) (H) - Heard in the distance in the hill forest at Amazonia. Too bad.
Spot-backed Antbird (Hylophylax naevia) - It played hard-to-get, but a few of us saw it behind Amazonia Lodge.
Black-spotted Bare-eye (Phlegopsis nigromaculata) - Another one seen at the antswarm. Only one and it didn't stick around for closer views.
ANTTHRUSHES & ANTPITTAS (Formicariidae) - In contrast to the antbirds, the antthrushes and antpittas were off this trip. The antpittas were hardly singing at all and never close enough to go looking for. A few antthrushes were singing but just wouldn't respond to the tape. This is always a tough group.
Black-faced Antthrush (Formicarius analis) (H)
Rufous-fronted Antthrush (Formicarius rufifrons) (H)
Rufous-breasted Antthrush (Formicarius rufipectus) (H)
Barred Antthrush (Chamaeza mollissima) (H)
Red-and-white Antpitta (Grallaria erythroleuca) (H)
Rufous Antpitta (Grallaria rufula) (HX)
Amazonian Antpitta (Hylopezus berlepschi) (H)
Thrush-like Antpitta (Myrmothera campanisona) (H)
Rusty-breasted Antpitta (Grallaricula ferrugineipectus) (H)
GNATEATERS (Conopophagidae)
Slaty Gnateater (Conopophaga ardesiaca) - Nice views of a responsive female along the trails at Cock of the rock Lodge. Seen by all.
TAPACULOS (Rhinocryptidae)
Rusty-belted Tapaculo (Liosceles thoracicus) (H)
Trilling Tapaculo (Scytalopus parvirostris) (H)
Bolivian Tapaculo (Scytalopus bolivianus) (H) - AKA Southern White-crowned Tapaculo. It just wouldn't come out.
Puna Tapaculo (Scytalopus simonsi) (X) - We saw this one well hopping through the polylepis at Abra Málaga.
Diademed Tapaculo (Scytalopus schulenbergi) (HX)
COTINGAS (Cotingidae)
Cinereous Mourner (Laniocera hypopyrra) (H)
Red-crested Cotinga (Ampelion rubrocristata)
Barred Fruiteater (Pipreola arcuata) - Brief views of a male that flew off before we could scope it below Pilluhuata.
Screaming Piha (Lipaugus vociferans) - We saw this loud-mouth twice on the trails at MWC.
Plum-throated Cotinga (Cotinga maynana) - Electrifying views through the scope of a male along the lower Manu road.
Bare-necked Fruitcrow (Gymnoderus foetidus)
Purple-throated Fruitcrow (Querula purpurata)
Amazonian Umbrellabird (Cephalopterus ornatus) - We found a female at the bottom of an old landslide just outside of San Pedro.
Andean Cock-of-the-rock (Rupicola peruviana) - We watched about five males do their bizarre mating displays from the hide at Cock of the Rock Lodge. We also saw them regularly along the Manu road.
MANAKINS (Pipridae)
Yungas Manakin (Chiroxiphia boliviana) - A male repeatedly came to the fruit feeders at Cock of the rock Lodge. A difficult bird to see inside the forest, so we were happy to see it here.
Band-tailed Manakin (Pipra fasciicauda) - Nice views of several males at a lek along the jeep track at Amazonia.
Round-tailed Manakin (Pipra chloromeros) - We saw the brilliantly-colored males at leks along the lower Manu road and at Amazonia lodge.
Fiery-capped Manakin (Machaeropterus pyrocephalus) (H)
Dwarf Tyrant-Manakin (Tyranneutes stolzmanni) (H)
Wing-barred Piprites (Manakin) (Piprites chloris) (H)
TYRANT FLYCATCHERS (Tyrannidae)
White-lored Tyrannulet (Ornithion inerme) - Several responded well to playback at Amazonia.
Southern Beardless-Tyrannulet (Camptostoma obsoletum)
Yellow-crowned Tyrannulet (Tyrannulus elatus)
Forest Elaenia (Myiopagis gaimardii)
White-crested Elaenia (Elaenia albiceps)
Mottle-backed Elaenia (Elaenia gigas) (H)
Sierran Elaenia (Elaenia pallatangae)
Torrent Tyrannulet (Serpophaga cinerea)
Ochre-bellied Flycatcher (Mionectes oleagineus)
Streak-necked Flycatcher (Mionectes striaticollis)
Olive-striped Flycatcher (Mionectes olivaceus)
Inca Flycatcher (Leptopogon taczanowskii) - Unfortunately I was the only one to see this one in that incredibly fast-moving flock below Pillahuata.
Sepia-capped Flycatcher (Leptopogon amaurocephalus)
Slaty-capped Flycatcher (Leptopogon superciliaris)
Marble-faced Bristle-Tyrant (Phylloscartes ophthalmicus)
Cinnamon-faced Tyrannulet (Phylloscartes parkeri) - Bob and I saw one really well just outside our cabins at Cock of the rock Lodge. Unfortunately the others were taking showers and it never came back!
Mottle-cheeked Tyrannulet (Phylloscartes ventralis) (X) - Quite common in flocks near Aguas Calientes.
Sclater's Tyrannulet (Phyllomyias sclateri) (X) - Ditto.
Black-capped Tyrannulet (Phyllomyias nigrocapillus) (HX)
Ashy-headed Tyrannulet (Phyllomyias cinereiceps) (X) - One seen in a flock near Aguas Calientes.
Bolivian Tyrannulet (Zimmerius bolivianus) - We saw a few in flocks in and around Cock of the rock Lodge.
White-throated Tyrannulet (Mecocerculus leucophrys)
White-banded Tyrannulet (Mecocerculus stictopterus)
Unstreaked Tit-Tyrant (Uromyias agraphia) (X) - We saw at least two of this Peruvian endemic in the big mixed flock on the Quillabamba road.
Ash-breasted Tit-Tyrant (Anairetes alpinus) - There were several pairs of them in the polylepis at Abra Málaga. One of Diane's favorites.
Yellow-billed Tit-Tyrant (Anairetes flavirostris) - Quick views at Laguna Huacarpay.
Tufted Tit-Tyrant (Anairetes parulus) (X)
Many-colored Rush-Tyrant (Tachuris rubrigastra) - A gorgeous flycatcher that put on a good show at Laguna Huacarpay.
Short-tailed Pygmy-Tyrant (Myiornis ecaudatus) - A tiny chubby flycatcher that looks rather like a ping-pong ball. One of the smallest birds in the world. We saw two pairs at Amazonia.
Scale-crested Pygmy-Tyrant (Lophotriccus pileatus)
Flammulated Bamboo-Tyrant (Hemitriccus flammulatus) - Good views in the bamboo along the antthrush trail.
White-eyed Tody-Tyrant (Hemitriccus zosterops) - The race found in Manu (griseipectus) is sometimes regarded as a seperate species (White-bellied Tody-Tyrant)
Johannes's Tody-Tyrant (Hemitriccus iohannis) - One seen well along the jeep track at Amazonia.
Ochre-faced Tody-Flycatcher (Todirostrum plumbeiceps) - On our second attempt we had quite good views along the Manu road above Cock of the Rock lodge.
Rusty-fronted Tody-Flycatcher (Todirostrum latirostre) - Seen in bamboo on the antthrush trail at MWC. It's call is very similar to that of Flammulated Bamboo-Tyrant.
Spotted Tody-Flycatcher (Todirostrum maculatum) - A nice responsive individual on Cocha Comungo exactly where it was in May.
Black-backed Tody-Flycatcher (Todirostrum pulchellum) (H) - Too bad. It's a truly spectacular bird.
Common Tody-Flycatcher (Todirostrum cinereum) (X)
Yellow-browed Tody-Flycatcher (Todirostrum chrysocrotaphum)
Ringed Antpipit (Corythopis torquata) - Quite a strange bird. It's a terrestrial flycatcher found in lowland Amazonian rainforests. We saw it very well at Amazonia Lodge.
Large-headed Flatbill (Ramphotrigon megacephala) - Another bamboo specialist seen well along the antthrush trail at MWC.
Dusky-tailed Flatbill (Ramphotrigon fuscicauda) - Ditto.
Rufous-tailed Flatbill (Ramphotrigon ruficauda) - Finally got a nice look at this one on the grid at MWC.
Yellow-olive Flycatcher (Flatbill) (Tolmomyias sulphurescens) (X)
Yellow-margined Flycatcher (Tolmomyias assimilis) - Sometimes called Zimmer's Flatbill. Some recent field guides have begun calling all members of the genus Tolmomyias "Flatbills".
Gray-crowned Flycatcher (Tolmomyias poliocephalus)
Yellow-breasted Flycatcher (Tolmomyias flaviventris) - Sometimes called Olive-faced Flatbill.
Golden-crowned Spadebill (Platyrinchus coronatus)
Ornate Flycatcher (Myiotriccus ornatus)
Unadorned Flycatcher (Myiophobus inornatus) - We saw two along the Manu road above San Pedro. The eyering is much more pronounced than is illustrated in the Peru field guide.
Handsome Flycatcher (Myiophobus pulcher) - Several in the fast flock near the waterfall below Pillahuata.
Bran-colored Flycatcher (Myiophobus fasciatus) - We saw one near Machu Picchu and another north of Lima. The latter individual was of the very different race rufescens that is probably a distinct species.
Ruddy-tailed Flycatcher (Terenotriccus erythrurus) - Peter found this cute fellow on the trail back to the river from Cocha Blanca.
Tawny-breasted Flycatcher (Myiobius villosus)
Cinnamon Flycatcher (Pyrrhomyias cinnamomea) - Maybe they're common, but they have character...
Euler's Flycatcher (Lathrotriccus euleri)
Smoke-colored Pewee (Contopus fumigatus)
Black Phoebe (Sayornis nigricans)
Vermilion Flycatcher (Pyrocephalus rubinus)
Maroon-chested Chat-Tyrant  (Ochthoeca thoracica) - This is a split from Slaty-backed Chat-Tyrant. It is also sometimes called Chestnut-belted Chat-Tyrant. We saw it near the waterfall below Pillahuata.
Rufous-breasted Chat-Tyrant (Ochthoeca rufipectoralis) - We saw them so often at the higher elevations that we began to suspect they were following us around.
Brown-backed Chat-Tyrant (Ochthoeca fumicolor) (X)
White-browed Chat-Tyrant (Ochthoeca leucophrys)
Drab Water-Tyrant (Ochthornis littoralis)
Red-rumped Bush-Tyrant (Cnemarchus erythropygius) (X) - A pair seen at the far end of the valley on the Polylepis hike.
Streak-throated Bush-Tyrant (Myiotheretes striaticollis) - We saw it twice near Cock of the Rock lodge, an unusually low elevation for this species.
Rufous-webbed Tyrant (Polioxolmis rufipennis) (X) - A pair in the same spot as the Red-rumped Bush-Tyrants.
Spot-billed Ground-Tyrant (Muscisaxicola maculirostris) - A few seen at Laguna Huacarpay.
Little Ground-Tyrant (Muscisaxicola fluviatilis) - The only one we saw was in the middle of the road near San Pedro.
Rufous-naped Ground-Tyrant (Muscisaxicola rufivertex) - An austral migrant. One seen on the Polylepis hike. Bob saw one on his visit to Huacarpay.
Puna Ground-Tyrant (Muscisaxicola juninensis) - Ditto.
Plain-capped Ground-Tyrant (Muscisaxicola alpina) (X) - Abra Málaga. The Birds of Ecuador calls this "Páramo Ground-Tyrant".
Cinereous Ground-Tyrant (Muscisaxicola cinerea) - Austral migrant.
Short-tailed Field-Tyrant (Muscigralla brevicauda) - We only saw one at Lomas de Lachay.
Andean Negrito (Lessonia oreas) - Common at Laguna Huacarpay.
White-winged Black-Tyrant (Knipolegus aterrimus) (X) - I saw one at Machu Picchu but it flew before anyone else saw it.
Long-tailed Tyrant (Colonia colonus)
Bright-rumped Attila (Attila spadiceus) (H)
Dull-capped Attila (Attila bolivianus) - An obliging bird decided to perch in the tower tree at Comungo. Sometimes called White-eyed Attila, which seems like a better name.
Sirystes (Sirystes sibilator) - Sometimes called Eastern Sirystes (e.g. Birds of Ecuador).
Grayish Mourner (Rhytipterna simplex) - One responded nicely to the tape and we saw it well.
Dusky-capped Flycatcher (Myiarchus tuberculifer)
Short-crested Flycatcher (Myiarchus ferox)
Lesser Kiskadee (Philohydor lictor)
Great Kiskadee (Pitangus sulphuratus)
Boat-billed Flycatcher (Megarynchus pitangua)
Social Flycatcher (Myiozetetes similis)
Gray-capped Flycatcher (Myiozetetes granadensis)
Lemon-browed Flycatcher (Conopias cinchoneti)
Golden-crowned Flycatcher (Myiodynastes chrysocephalus)
Streaked Flycatcher (Myiodynastes maculatus)
Piratic Flycatcher (Legatus leucophaius)
Crowned Slaty-Flycatcher (Griseotyrannus aurantioatrocristatus) - An austral migrant. One has taken up temporary residence in the Comungo tower tree.
Sulphury Flycatcher (Tyrannopsis sulphurea) - Nice scope views of a pair near the cabins of MWC. A rarely-seen bird.
Tropical Kingbird (Tyrannus melancholicus)
Greater Schiffornis (Schiffornis major) (H) - Sometimes called Greater Manakin or Várzea Schiffornis.
Barred Becard (Pachyramphus versicolor)
White-winged Becard (Pachyramphus polychopterus)
Black-capped Becard (Pachyramphus marginatus) (H)
Pink-throated Becard (Pachyramphus minor)
Black-tailed Tityra (Tityra cayana)
SWALLOWS (Hirundinidae)
Brown-chested Martin (Progne tapera)
White-winged Swallow (Tachycineta albiventer)
Blue-and-white Swallow (Pygochelidon cyanoleuca)
Brown-bellied Swallow (Notiochelidon murina)
White-banded Swallow (Atticora fasciata)
Southern Rough-winged Swallow (Stelgidopteryx ruficollis)
DIPPERS (Cinclidae)
White-capped Dipper (Cinclus leucocephalus) (X) - A few seen from the train along the Río Urubamba.
WRENS (Troglodytidae)
Black-capped Donacobius (Donacobius atricapillus)
Thrush-like Wren (Campylorhynchus turdinus)
Fulvous Wren (Cinnycerthia fulva) - We found a nice family party near the tunnels below Pillahuata.
Inca Wren (Thryothorus eisenmanni) (X) - We almost missed it since they were totally unresponsive. Finally we got one in the big mixed flock on the Quillabamba road.
Moustached Wren (Thryothorus genibarbis)
Buff-breasted Wren (Thryothorus leucotis) - Just a fleeting glimpse at the edge of Cocha Comungo.
House Wren (Troglodytes aedon)
Mountain Wren (Troglodytes solstitialis)
Gray-breasted Wood-Wren (Henicorhina leucophrys)
Scaly-breasted Wren (Microcerculus marginatus) - Many books call this Southern Nightingale-Wren.
MOCKINGBIRDS & THRASHERS (Mimidae)
Long-tailed Mockingbird (Mimus longicaudatus)
THRUSHES AND ALLIES (Turdidae)
Andean Solitaire (Myadestes ralloides) - Finally we got a look at one in a mixed flock on the Manu road. They never responded.
White-eared Solitaire (Entomodestes leucotis) - They were calling like crazy on that cold morning on the middle Manu road but just would not respond to the tape. I got on one briefly but nobody else did.
Chiguanco Thrush (Turdus chiguanco)
Great Thrush (Turdus fuscater)
Glossy-black Thrush (Turdus serranus) (X)
Black-billed Thrush (Turdus ignobilis)
Hauxwell's Thrush (Turdus hauxwelli) (H)
White-necked Thrush (Turdus albicollis) (H)
GNATCATCHERS (Polioptilidae)
Tawny-faced Gnatwren (Microbates cinereiventris) (H)
CROWS, JAYS AND MAGPIES (Corvidae)
Green Jay (Cyanocorax yncas) - The middle American race (luctuosis) is often considered a seperate species. If so, the South American species is called Inca Jay.
Purplish Jay (Cyanocorax cyanomelas) - Plenty of these at Amazonia and all the way down the Río Madre de Dios to Manu Wildlife Center.
Violaceous Jay (Cyanocorax violaceus) - Just as many of these, sometimes even in the same flock.
White-collared Jay (Cyanolyca viridicyana) - Good views above Pillahuata when the fog lifted temporarily.
OLD WORLD SPARROWS (Passeridae)
House Sparrow (Passer domesticus) - Around Lima, fortunately not seen elsewhere.
VIREOS AND ALLIES (Vireonidae)
Brown-capped Vireo (Vireo leucophrys)
Red-eyed Vireo (Vireo olivaceus) - We saw these in many places on the east slope of the Andes. Most if not all of them were of race chivi, an austral migrant that is sometimes considered a full species (Chivi Vireo)
Dusky-capped Greenlet (Hylophilus hypoxanthus) - After some persistent playback, we finally convinced this high-canopy bird to come down lower for a closer look at MWC.
Tawny-crowned Greenlet (Hylophilus ochraceiceps) - There were lots of these in understory flocks at MWC but I was the only one who ever saw it well.
SISKINS, CROSSBILLS, ETC (Fringillidae)
Hooded Siskin (Carduelis magellanica)
Olivaceous Siskin (Carduelis olivacea)
Black Siskin (Carduelis atrata) (X) - We found a single spectacular male in the large finch flock we found on the Polylepis hike.
NEW WORLD WARBLERS (Parulidae)
Tropical Parula (Parula pitiayumi)
Masked Yellowthroat (Geothlypis aequinoctialis) - Peter, who studies Common Yellowthroats, was dying to see this one. He found us a nice male on the side of Cocha Comungo.
Slate-throated Redstart (Myioborus miniatus) - Most new field guides call all members of this genus "Whitestarts". Makes a lot more sense.
Spectacled Redstart (Myioborus melanocephalus)
Two-banded Warbler (Basileuterus bivittatus) - After a few failed attempts we finally saw a male in some bamboo on the middle Manu road.
Golden-bellied Warbler (Basileuterus chrysogaster) - A little farther down the road we had superb views of this extremely similar species.
Pale-legged Warbler (Basileuterus signatus) - We manage to call in a pair of these near the tunnels below Pillahuata.
Citrine Warbler (Basileuterus luteoviridis)
Russet-crowned Warbler (Basileuterus coronatus)
Three-striped Warbler (Basileuterus tristriatus)
Buff-rumped Warbler (Basileuterus fulvicauda)
BANANAQUIT (Coerebidae)
Bananaquit (Coereba flaveola) (H) - They were singing along the lower Manu road but we never really searched for them, assuming we would see them later. We didn't!!
TANAGERS AND ALLIES (Thraupidae)
Chestnut-vented Conebill (Conirostrum speciosum) - There was one behind Amazonia Lodge. I may have been the only one to see it well.
Cinereous Conebill (Conirostrum cinereum)
White-browed Conebill (Conirostrum ferrugineiventre) (X) - They were very common on the Quillabamba road, but we missed them in Manu due to the incredibly thick fog in the elfin forest.
Blue-backed Conebill (Conirostrum sitticolor) (X)
Capped Conebill (Conirostrum albifrons)
Giant Conebill (Oreomanes fraseri) (X) - We saw a couple of these neat birds in the Polylepis at Abra Malaga.
Magpie Tanager (Cissopis leveriana)
Grass-green Tanager (Chlorornis riefferii) - A spectacular bird, distinguishable even through the thick fog.
Common Bush-Tanager (Chlorospingus ophthalmicus)
Yellow-throated Bush-Tanager (Chlorospingus flavigularis)
Gray-hooded Bush-Tanager (Cnemoscopus rubrirostris) - They were common in the fast-moving flock near the waterfall, but we never saw them again.
White-browed Hemispingus (Hemispingus auricularis) - Another brand-new name. We called it Black-capped Hemispingus on the tour. Clements just accepted the proposal to split off the endemic Peruvian race that is found south of the Río Marañon. We saw lots of them in mixed flocks near the tunnels below Pillahuata.
Superciliaried Hemispingus (Hemispingus superciliaris)
Oleaginous Hemispingus (Hemispingus frontalis) (X) - They were common in flocks near Aguas Calientes, but we never saw them in Manu.
Black-eared Hemispingus (Hemispingus melanotis) - Common in the bamboo around Cock of the rock Lodge. We saw race berlepshi, another candidate for a split.
Three-striped Hemispingus (Hemispingus trifasciatus) (X) - We saw several in our big flock on the Quillabamba road.
Rufous-chested Tanager (Thlypopsis ornata)
Rust-and-yellow Tanager (Thlypopsis ruficeps)
Yellow-backed Tanager (Hemithraupis flavicollis)
Olive Tanager (Chlorothraupis carmioli) - The South American populations are often split off as C. frenata, leaving the middle American species (carmioli) with the name Carmiol's Tanager.
White-winged Shrike-Tanager (Lanio versicolor) - Common in flocks along the trails at MWC.
Slaty Tanager (Creurgops dentata) - We finally got a pair of these on the middle Manu road just as the fog came down and wiped out our visibility.
Yellow-crested Tanager (Tachyphonus rufiventer)
White-shouldered Tanager (Tachyphonus luctuosus)
Black-goggled Tanager (Trichothraupis melanops) - We saw a single female from the balcony at Cock of the rock Lodge.
Red-crowned Ant-Tanager (Habia rubica) - A few in understory flocks at MWC.
Hepatic Tanager (Piranga flava) (X)
Masked Crimson Tanager (Ramphocelus nigrogularis)
Silver-beaked Tanager (Ramphocelus carbo)
Blue-gray Tanager (Thraupis episcopus)
Blue-capped Tanager (Thraupis cyanocephala)
Blue-and-yellow Tanager (Thraupis bonariensis)
Palm Tanager (Thraupis palmarum)
Hooded Mountain-Tanager (Buthraupis montana) - We saw a few of these beauties near Pillahuata.
Scarlet-bellied Mountain-Tanager (Anisognathus igniventris) - Common but spectacular!
Yellow-throated Tanager (Iridosornis analis) - They are quite common in flocks along the middle parts of the Manu road.
Golden-collared Tanager (Iridosornis jelskii) - Another casualty to the fog in the elfin forest. I saw it just before it vanished into the mist.
Chestnut-bellied Mountain-Tanager (Delothraupis castaneoventris) (X)
Fawn-breasted Tanager (Pipraeidea melanonota) (X) - I said we would see it again. We didn't. *sigh*.
Bronze-green Euphonia (Euphonia mesochrysa)
White-lored Euphonia (Euphonia chrysopasta)
Orange-bellied Euphonia (Euphonia xanthogaster)
Rufous-bellied Euphonia (Euphonia rufiventris)
Orange-eared Tanager (Chlorochrysa calliparaea) - Another spectacular tanager that is common in mixed flocks along the middle Manu road.
Turquoise Tanager (Tangara mexicana)
Paradise Tanager (Tangara chilensis) - It doesn't matter how common they are, you can never tire of looking at them.
Green-and-gold Tanager (Tangara schrankii)
Golden Tanager (Tangara arthus)
Golden-eared Tanager (Tangara chrysotis)
Saffron-crowned Tanager (Tangara xanthocephala)
Yellow-bellied Tanager (Tangara xanthogastra) - Bob and I saw one at Amazonia.
Spotted Tanager (Tangara punctata)
Bay-headed Tanager (Tangara gyrola)
Golden-naped Tanager (Tangara ruficervix) (X) - We saw one near Aguas Calientes. They are rather scarce in this area compared to other parts of their range.
Blue-necked Tanager (Tangara cyanicollis)
Beryl-spangled Tanager (Tangara nigroviridis)
Blue-and-black Tanager (Tangara vassorii)
Silver-backed Tanager (Tangara viridicollis) (X) - We saw a couple along the tracks near Aguas Calientes. A very local tangara, often completely absent from seemingly suitable forest.
Opal-crowned Tanager (Tangara callophrys)
Black-faced Dacnis (Dacnis lineata) - This and the next four species were all coming to a fruiting tree next to the Comungo tower. Great looks at all.
Yellow-bellied Dacnis (Dacnis flaviventer)
Blue Dacnis (Dacnis cayana)
Green Honeycreeper (Chlorophanes spiza)
Purple Honeycreeper (Cyanerpes caeruleus)
Tit-like Dacnis (Xenodacnis parina) (X) - Nice close looks at the female in the elfin forest on the Quillabamba road, then great views of a male in full sunlight in the Polylepis the next day. Apart from a couple of sites in Ecuador, this species is endemic to the highlands of Peru.
Swallow-Tanager (Tersina viridis)
Plush-capped Finch (Catamblyrhynchus diadema) (X) - It was in the big flock on the Quillabamba road, but I only had a glimpse and it wouldn't come back. Sometimes called Plushcap.
EMBERIZINE FINCHES (Emberizidae)
Peruvian Sierra-Finch (Phrygilus punensis)
Mourning Sierra-Finch (Phrygilus fruticeti)
Plumbeous Sierra-Finch (Phrygilus unicolor) (X)
Band-tailed Sierra-Finch (Phrygilus alaudinus) - Bob got one on his trip to Huacarpay.
Ash-breasted Sierra-Finch (Phrygilus plebejus)
White-winged Diuca-Finch (Diuca speculifera) (X) - We saw this distinctive high-Andean finch several times on the Polylepis hike.
Chestnut-breasted Mountain-Finch (Poospiza caesar) - A striking Peruvian endemic. We saw a bunch of them at the usual stakeout in Huacarani, and also on the drive up to Abra Málaga.
Collared Warbling-Finch (Poospiza hispaniolensis) - A female at Lomas de Lachay.
Blue-black Grassquit (Volatinia jacarina)
Black-and-white Seedeater (Sporophila luctuosa) (X)
Double-collared Seedeater (Sporophila caerulescens)
Chestnut-bellied (Lesser) Seed-Finch (Oryzoborus angolensis) - This is often lumped with Thick-billed Seed-Finch (O. furnarius). When that is the case it is called Lesser Seed-Finch.
Band-tailed Seedeater (Catamenia analis)
Dull-colored Grassquit (Tiaris obscura) - We saw a few of this apty-named finch on the side of the road near the waterfall below Pillahuata.
Rusty Flowerpiercer (Diglossa sittoides) (X)
Moustached Flowerpiercer (Diglossa mystacalis)
Black-throated Flowerpiercer (Diglossa brunneiventris)
Bluish Flowerpiercer (Diglossopis caerulescens)
Masked Flowerpiercer (Diglossopis cyanea)
Grassland Yellow-Finch (Sicalis luteola) - Bob saw a flock on his trip to Huacarpay.
Bright-rumped Yellow-Finch (Sicalis uropygialis) (X) - We found a huge flock of them along the hike back down to the road from the Polylepis.
Greenish Yellow-Finch (Sicalis olivascens) - A large flock at Laguna Huacarpay.
Red-capped Cardinal (Paroaria gularis)
Olive Finch (Lysurus castaneiceps) (H)
Rufous-naped Brush-Finch (Atlapetes rufinucha) - This race (melanolaemus) is often considered a distinct species, Black-faced or Dark-faced Brush-Finch. Clements splits it in his field guide but not in his checklist. Go figure...
Chestnut-capped Brush-Finch (Buarremon brunneinucha)
Pectoral Sparrow (Arremon taciturnus) (H)
Yellow-browed Sparrow (Ammodramus aurifrons)
Rufous-collared Sparrow (Zonotrichia capensis)
SALTATORS, CARDINALS, ETC. (Cardinalidae)
Grayish Saltator (Saltator coerulescens)
Buff-throated Saltator (Saltator maximus)
Golden-billed Saltator (Saltator aurantiirostris)
Yellow-shouldered Grosbeak (Parkerthraustes humeralis) - This was a lifer for me in the MWC tower. Unfortunately it took off as soon as I got in the scope! It happens...
TROUPIALS AND ALLIES (Icteridae)
Yellow-winged Blackbird (Agelaius thilius) - Plenty of them at Huacarpay. Mostly female-plumaged birds but there were a few males as well.
Pale-eyed Blackbird (Agelaius xanthophthalmus) - We saw several in the grass on the side of Cocha Comungo. An extremely local species. I think this must have been the small blackbird perched next to the Giant Cowbird at the airstrip, despite the wrong habitat. There's no way Giant Cowbirds vary in size that much!
Peruvian Meadowlark (Sturnella bellicosa)
Scrub Blackbird (Dives warszewiczi)
Giant Cowbird (Molothrus oryzivorus)
Orange-backed Troupial (Icterus croconotus) - Recently re-split from Troupial (I. icterus). We saw a pair at the start of the jeep track just before we left Amazonia.
Yellow-rumped Cacique (Cacicus cela)
Mountain Cacique (Cacicus chrysonotus) - We saw them with White-collared Jays in the elfin forest above Pillahuata. The northern and southern races of this species are often considered separate species. The one we saw would then be called Southern Mountain-Cacique (C. chrysonotus).
Solitary Cacique (Cacicus solitarius) - We tracked down a singing individual along the jeep track at Amazonia.
Casqued Oropendola (Psarocolius oseryi) - They flew by the MWC tower just as we got there. Everyone wanted better views.
Crested Oropendola (Psarocolius decumanus)
Dusky-green Oropendola (Psarocolius atrovirens) - We saw them regularly along the middle stretches of the Manu road.
Russet-backed Oropendola (Psarocolius angustifrons)
Amazonian Oropendola (Gymnostinops bifasciatus) - Sometimes called Olive Oropendola, which is probably a better name given how many oropendolas are in the Amazon!

MAMMAL LIST

This list generally follows Emmons, Louise H and François Feer. 1997. Neotropical Rainforest Mammals. A Field Guide, Second Edition. Chicago: The University of Chicago Press.

Southern Tamandua (Tamandua tetradactyla)
Saddleback Tamarin (Saguinus fuscicollis)
Dusky Titi Monkey (Callicebus moloch)
Common Squirrel Monkey (Saimiri sciureus)
Brown Capuchin Monkey (Cebus apella)
Red Howler Monkey (Alouatta seniculus)
Common Woolly Monkey (Lagothrix lagothricha)
White-bellied Spider Monkey (Ateles belzebuth)
Peruvian Desert Fox (Pseudalopex sechurae)
Neotropical Otter (Lontra longicaudus)
Giant Otter (Pteronura brasiliensis)
Red Brocket Deer (Mazama americana)
Capybara (Hydrochaeris hydrochaeris)
Brown Agouti (Dasyprocta variegata)
Mountain Viscacha (Lagidium peruanum) - This was the mammal we saw at Machu Picchu that the local guide called a rabbit.