Peru: Manu and Machu Picchu
3-20 September 2005
Nick Athanas & José Illánes
This is the third time I've guided this trip, and each time brings a new set of experiences. Not all were good! We had disappointments with cancelled flights, blocked roads, and some bad weather costing us our visit to the polylepis forest, but these were tempered by some of the most amazing sightings I've had on any of my tours, and somehow, surprisingly, a bigger list than any of the past trips I've done here. We were lucky to have José Illánes along with us to learn the route - his sharp Amazonian eyes helped us spot countless great birds and his charm made the trip much more fun. In this report I will try something a little different. Rather than give a day-by-day account of where we went and the birds we saw, I'm going to describe a few special events that stand out in my mind as really defining this tour. I think it will be more interesting for you to read and it is far more interesting for me to write.
8 September, 4:30pm. We pause at the lookout over the Rio Alto Madre de Diós before descending to Atalaya and crossing the river to Amazonia Lodge. We only have 15 minutes to spend here as it will be growing dark soon. About two minutes after getting out of the van a distant squawking can be heard, and two large, long tailed birds come into view from the west. "BLUE-HEADED MACAWS," I shout, and we watch them come in high, nothing more than silhouettes, their subtle but beautiful colors totally hidden by the glare. A typical view of this special bird, and we sadly watch as they start fading into the distance. On a whim, I quickly find a recording on my mp3 player and blast it out to the sky, expecting nothing more than smirks from those around me. But something magical happens; the birds turn around and come back, circling over us a few times, complaining loudly, before finally dropping down into a tree right over our heads. Over the next ten minutes they fly from tree to tree giving us the sort of jaw-dropping views I had always hoped for in the past.
Macaws are a symbol of the Manu area. Nowhere else in the world can so many species be seen so easily and in such amazing numbers. On this tour we saw seven species, and on some days we saw hundreds of macaws of up to five species. Seeing these magnificent creatures flying free over the pristine rainforest stirs the soul of even the most jaded birder.
12 September, 05:00 am. Our fourth morning in the Amazonian lowlands. The previous days had been typically hot with shirt-drenching humidity, mostly clear skies with only a few drops of rain. None of us had any idea how quickly that would change! We awake to strong winds and a steady downpour that forces us to postpone our visit to the macaw lick, and the temperature is already dropping fast. By lunchtime the temperature has plummeted to 55˚F(13˚C), and it will stay there for nearly 48 hours. No one can deny that we have been hit by a dreaded "Friaje." These occur only during the austral winter when very strong cold fronts billow up from the south into the Amazon basin, bringing cold winds and rain. September is late for one and we were not expecting it. 55˚F may not sound that bad, but when getting blasted by wind in the top of the canopy tower or speeding downriver in a motorboat it will chill you to the bone. Not even the high Andean passes felt this cold.
The odd weather certainly has an impact on the birds we see. Canopy birds are difficult and we spend very little time in the towers. Fortunately trail birding turns out to be surprisingly productive, so that's where we concentrate our time. Pale-winged Trumpeters, Razor-billed Curassows, Curl-crested Aracaris, Collared and Semicollared Puffbirds, and numerous antbirds are some of the memorable birds. The bamboo species are even kind to us, and we have great views of two of the most wanted specialties here, Rufous-fronted Antthrush and Peruvian Recurvebill. On that first rainy morning we even see a Short-eared Dog slinking back and forth across the trail a few times. This rare mammal is seen less often than Jaguar, though all of us would have preferred to see one of those.
We do make it back to the macaw lick two mornings later, where 150 Red-and-green Macaws descend to the clay just as the Friaje is starting to lift. They have come down late; most groups had already left the hide and we were minutes away from giving up too. It was worth the wait!
15 September, 3:15pm. Our afternoon excursion is held up when I receive news over the radio that our flight tomorrow back to Cusco has been cancelled. The plane has not flown for five days due to a maintenance problem, and the company that has the concession to fly into Boca Manu is refusing to allow any other planes to come in. They are not saying when the plane will come again. The next closest airport in Puerto Maldonado does not have a flight for two days and it may be full. We are left with only one option: return to Cusco the way we came, an overland journey that is expected to take 21 hours. No one likes the news, but all understand that it is the only choice. We change our plans and decide to take only a short walk and then come back and prepare for tomorrow. We wander down the riverside trail, seeing and hearing nothing, everyone quiet and glum in anticipation of the very long day coming up tomorrow. José languidly whistles Pavonine Quetzal as he has been doing every day for the last few days with no luck. We finally hear the metallic chirp of a Dwarf Tyrant-Manakin and decide to look for it (though its drab colors are not likely to liven the mood). Suddenly I become aware of a faint whistle and feel a rush of adrenaline - it's the quetzal responding! José has heard it too. We rush off down the trail, manakin forgotten, pausing occasionally to home in on the sound. In a surprisingly short time José has found it, perched high up near the trail in beautiful light, the scintillant red and green plumage lifting us out of our depression as we realize that things could be worse. We are still in this fantastic wilderness area and it will take a lot more than a cancelled flight to erase the memories of the last few days.
16 September, 6:30am. A beautiful morning sunny morning on the river as we slowly work our way up the Madre de Diós. A great day to be on the river, which is fortunate as it will take us nearly nine and half hours to make it back to the end of the Manu road where a van is waiting to take us to Urubamba. The water level is unusually low, and in several places we must get out and push the boat against the ferocious current. We know it will be a long journey, and we had jokingly decided the night before that we would only stop the boat for three things: Harpy Eagle, Crested Eagle, or Jaguar. Of course no one really expects to see any of these, but it seems we may be due some good fortune. 45 minutes into the journey Trevor taps excitedly on my shoulder and points to a huge bird perched high over the edge of the river. I just about jump out of my seat as the boat comes to a stop, and we gaze in awe at a magnificent Crested Eagle until it opens its huge wings and glides down behind the trees. I can't believe our luck - stunning views of one of the biggest and rarest raptors in the world - rarer even than the more-celebrated Harpy Eagle, and the last of the big American eagles I hadn't seen. It is indeed a long journey (we arrive in the hotel at 2:10am), but with that single stroke of luck it becomes so much easier to bear.
18 September, 11:30am. "Beer-bird" was a new term that we had made up earlier in the trip. I'm not sure who started using it, but Jim was behind it all when when he started buying beer for the guides for finding him certain star birds. The first was Gray-breasted Mountain-Toucan, which José managed to pick up out in the distance half way up a mountain, earning the first bottle. Some would call this bribery, but Jim has made out pretty well on the arrangement, and José and I end up with a much smaller bar tab. A beer-bird has to be something spectacular - tyrannulets and seed-finches will never make it no matter how rare they are. Most were not too easy to find, but on at least two occasions easier birds qualified when Jim missed the first one and decided to throw in some extra incentive for us to find another one. From the toucan we moved on to various others like Crested Quetzal, Highland Motmot, Sunbittern, Pavonine Quetzal, before finally getting to Andean Condor. The day before it seemed like we had blown our chance for that one after arriving at 14,500ft Abra Malaga very late and just in time for a snowstorm. We saw no condors that day, and not a whole lot else either thanks to the weather, the road work, and our necessary late start. That should have been it, as we are now at Machu Picchu and no one ever sees them here.
So here we are, listing to our local
guide Kerry talk about the Temple of the Moon when José says in a quiet but
forceful voice, "Hey! That's an Andean Condor." Kerry just about
jumps out of her shoes. It turns out that in something like 150 trips to Machu
Picchu she had never seen one. Inca history temporarily forgotten, she asks to
borrow some bins as we all watch two condors, one adult and one immature,
soaring well below us over the Urubamba river. The perfect setting to watch the
most spectacular vulture in the world. The beer would flow again tonight.
-Nick Athanas, October 2005
3 Sep: Arrival in Lima. Night in Lima.
4 Sep: 6am flight to Cusco. Bird Laguna Huarcarpay. Night Cusco.
5 Sep: Manu road to San Pedro. Night Cock-of-the-rock Lodge.
6 Sep: San Pedro area. Night Cock-of-the-rock Lodge.
7 Sep: Upper Manu Road. Night Cock-of-the-rock Lodge.
8 Sep: Lower Manu Road. Night Amazonia Lodge.
9 Sep: Amazonia Lodge. Night Amazonia Lodge.
10 Sep: Amazonia Lodge. Night Amazonia Lodge.
11 Sep: Amazonia Lodge, then 7.5 hour boat ride down Rio Madre de Diós. Night Manu Wildlife Center.
12 Sep: Grid trail AM, Canopy tower & Creekside trail PM. Night Manu Wildlife Center.
13 Sep: Canopy tower & Creekside trail AM, Cocha Blanco PM. Night Manu Wildlife Center.
14 Sep: Macaw lick & Antthrush trail. Night Manu Wildlife Center.
15 Sep: Cocha Camungo tower and lake AM, Riverside trail PM. Night Manu Wildlife Center.
16 Sep: Travel to Urubamba. Night Urubamba.
17 Sep: Abra Malaga. Night Urubamba.
18 Sep: Train to Aguas Calientes. Tour of Machu Picchu. Night Machu Picchu Pueblo Hotel.
19 Sep: Hotel grounds and railroad tracks. Train back to Cusco. Night Cusco.
20 Sep: 7:50am flight to Lima. Boat tour of Pucusana, San Pedro, Pantanos de Villa. Departure.
This list includes all the bird species that were recorded by at least one of us. Note that this is a group list, and individual lists were less than this. Taxonomy and nomenclature follow:
Clements, James F. 2000. Birds of the World: A Checklist. Fifth Edition. Vista, CA: Ibis Publishing Co.
I have also included the latest updates to the list. These updates can be found online at: http://www.ibispub.com/updates.html
60 heard only.
(H)=Heard Only, MWC=Manu Wildlife Center, COTRL=Cock-of-the-rock Lodge
I have put in comments for many of the more interesting sightings, but have not done so for most of the common and widespread species.
Great Tinamou (Tinamus major) - The only tinamou we actually saw on the trip. Twice they crossed trails at MWC.
Hooded Tinamou (Nothocercus nigrocapillus) (H)
Cinereous Tinamou (Crypturellus cinereus) (H)
Little Tinamou (Crypturellus soui) (H)
Brown Tinamou (Crypturellus obsoletus) (H)
Undulated Tinamou (Crypturellus undulatus) (H)
Black-capped Tinamou (Crypturellus atrocapillus) (H)
Humboldt Penguin (Spheniscus humboldti) - About a dozen in a cave near Pucusana; it was hard to make an accurate count the way our little boat was being tossed around in the waves.
Least Grebe (Tachybaptus dominicus)
Pied-billed Grebe (Podilymbus podiceps)
White-tufted Grebe (Rollandia rolland) - Laguna Huacarpay.
Great Grebe (Podiceps major) - Common at Pantanos de Villa, the only place we ever see them on this tour.
Peruvian Pelican (Pelecanus thagus)
BOOBIES AND GANNETS (Sulidae)
Peruvian Booby (Sula variegata) - They nest on the rocks near Pucusana.
Neotropic Cormorant (Phalacrocorax brasilianus)
Guanay Cormorant (Phalacrocorax bougainvillii) - Several at Pucusana - the population of this species along the coast of central Peru has plummeted recently.
Red-legged Cormorant (Phalacrocorax gaimardi) - Good numbers seen on the boat trip at Pucusana.
ANHINGAS AND DARTERS (Anhingidae)
Anhinga (Anhinga anhinga)
HERONS, EGRETS, BITTERNS (Ardeidae)
Capped Heron (Pilherodius pileatus)
Cocoi Heron (Ardea cocoi)
Great Egret (Ardea alba)
Little Blue Heron (Egretta caerulea)
Snowy Egret (Egretta thula)
Cattle Egret (Bubulcus ibis)
Striated Heron (Butorides striatus)
Agami Heron (Agamia agami) - A great view of this colorful and stately heron at the pond at Amazonia Lodge.
Black-crowned Night-Heron (Nycticorax nycticorax)
Fasciated Tiger-Heron (Tigrisoma fasciatum)
Rufescent Tiger-Heron (Tigrisoma lineatum)
Wood Stork (Mycteria americana)
IBISES AND SPOONBILLS (Threskiornithidae)
Green Ibis (Mesembrinibis cayennensis)
Puna Ibis (Plegadis ridgwayi) - They were common in the highlands, but we also saw them at sea level at Pantanos de Villa, one of several species we saw there that normally occur only in the high Andes.
Horned Screamer (Anhima cornuta) - Easy to see near MWC, both along the river and in the oxbow lakes.
DUCKS, GEESE, AND SWANS (Anatidae)
Andean Goose (Chloephaga melanoptera) - A distant flyover at Huancarani was a surprise, but I don't think anyone actually ticked that view.
Orinoco Goose (Neochen jubata) - Two seen flying downriver near MWC. I think only Fred saw it well enough to identify.
Muscovy Duck (Cairina moschata)
Torrent Duck (Merganetta armata) - On the day we went to Machu Picchu we saw an incredible 26 individuals!
Speckled (Andean) Teal (Anas flavirostris)
Yellow-billed Pintail (Anas georgica)
White-cheeked Pintail (Anas bahamensis)
Puna Teal (Anas puna) - A striking duck; we always see them at Laguna Huacarpay. Check out José's photo at the end of the list.
Cinnamon Teal (Anas cyanoptera)
Andean Duck (Andean Ruddy-Duck) (Oxyura ferruginea) - At Huacarpay, but also several at sea level at Pantanos de Villa.
NEW WORLD VULTURES (Cathartidae)
Black Vulture (Coragyps atratus)
Turkey Vulture (Cathartes aura)
Greater Yellow-headed Vulture (Cathartes melambrotus)
Andean Condor (Vultur gryphus) - What a privilege to be able to stand on the top of Machu Picchu and actually look down on two soaring condors. Our local guide said she had been there 150 times and had never seen one. We saw them again the next day along the railroad tracks.
King Vulture (Sarcoramphus papa)
Osprey (Pandion haliaetus)
HAWKS, EAGLES, AND KITES (Accipitridae)
Gray-headed Kite (Leptodon cayanensis)
Swallow-tailed Kite (Elanoides forficatus)
Double-toothed Kite (Harpagus bidentatus)
Plumbeous Kite (Ictinia plumbea)
Cinereous Harrier (Circus cinereus)
Crane Hawk (Geranospiza caerulescens)
Slate-colored Hawk (Leucopternis schistaceus) - Good views in the scope along the Creekside trail at MWC.
White Hawk (Leucopternis albicollis)
Great Black-Hawk (Buteogallus urubitinga)
Harris' Hawk (Parabuteo unicinctus)
Black-collared Hawk (Busarellus nigricollis)
Black-chested Buzzard-Eagle (Geranoaetus melanoleucus)
Solitary Eagle (Harpyhaliaetus solitarius) - First an immature, then a spectacular adult soaring at close range. This is generally a rarely-seen species, but I have never failed to see it along the middle parts of the Manu road.
Roadside Hawk (Buteo magnirostris)
Short-tailed Hawk (Buteo brachyurus)
Red-backed (Variable) Hawk (Buteo polyosoma)
Puna (Variable) Hawk (Buteo poecilochrous)
Zone-tailed Hawk (Buteo albonotatus) - A single bird was scaring the parrots at the lick near MWC. It was the first time we had recorded it on this tour.
Crested Eagle (Morphnus guianensis) - One adult seen along the Rio Madre de Diós between MWC and Boca Manu.
Black-and-white Hawk-Eagle (Spizastur melanoleucus) - First seen distantly above the ridge over Amazonia Lodge, then another distant view from the tower at MWC.
Black Hawk-Eagle (Spizaetus tyrannus)
Black-and-chestnut Eagle (Oroaetus isidori) - Great views of one soaring low over us along the upper Manu road.
FALCONS AND CARACARAS (Falconidae)
Black Caracara (Daptrius ater)
Red-throated Caracara (Ibycter americanus)
Mountain Caracara (Phalcoboenus megalopterus)
Laughing Falcon (Herpetotheres cachinnans)
Barred Forest-Falcon (Micrastur ruficollis) (H)
Collared Forest-Falcon (Micrastur semitorquatus) (H)
American Kestrel (Falco sparverius)
Bat Falcon (Falco rufigularis)
GUANS, CHACHALACAS, AND CURASSOWS (Cracidae)
Speckled Chachalaca (Ortalis guttata)
Andean Guan (Penelope montagnii)
Spix's Guan (Penelope jacquacu)
Blue-throated (Common) Piping-Guan (Pipile cumanensis) - Many seen this year. The first one we spotlit from the balcony of Amazonia lodge as it was getting dark.
Wattled Guan (Aburria aburri) (H)
Razor-billed Curassow (Mitu tuberosa) - Finally nailed this one after having no luck on the last few tours. We found one at dusk up in a tree just as it was going to roost, where we watched and photographed one until dark. Another one crossed the trail at Cocha Camungo a few days later.
NEW WORLD QUAIL (Odontophoridae)
Rufous-breasted Wood-Quail (Odontophorus speciosus) (H)
Starred Wood-Quail (Odontophorus stellatus) - José tracked one down at dusk and found out where it roosted. Most of us returned later for a good view in a spotlight.
Hoatzin (Opisthocomus hoazin)
Limpkin (Aramus guarauna)
Pale-winged Trumpeter (Psophia leucoptera) - One of everyone's favorites. We tracked down a big flock on the MWC grid in the same place where I had seen them two years ago.
RAILS, GALLINULES, COOTS (Rallidae)
Rufous-sided Crake (Laterallus melanophaius) (H)
Gray-breasted Crake (Laterallus exilis) - A tiny "mini-rail", we had one within meters of the floating platform on Cocha Blanco, but not everyone could get a glimpse of it moving through the dense vegetation.
Gray-necked Wood-Rail (Aramides cajanea)
Uniform Crake (Amaurolimnas concolor) (H)
Plumbeous Rail (Pardirallus sanguinolentus) - Easy to see for a rail, it was foraging in the open near the edge of Laguna Huacarpay.
Purple Gallinule (Porphyrula martinica)
Common Moorhen (Gallinula chloropus)
Slate-colored (Andean) Coot (Fulica ardesiaca) - Another high Andean species that we also saw at sea level at Pantanos de Villa.
SUNGREBE AND FINFOOTS (Heliornithidae)
Sungrebe (Heliornis fulica) - The oxbow lakes in Manu were loaded with them this year.
Sunbittern (Eurypyga helias)
Wattled Jacana (Jacana jacana)
Blackish Oystercatcher (Haematopus ater) - Two on the rocks during the Pucusana boat ride.
American Oystercatcher (Haematopus palliatus)
AVOCETS AND STILTS (Recurvirostridae)
Black-necked Stilt (Himantopus mexicanus)
Peruvian Thick-knee (Burhinus superciliaris) - Fred found the first one at our lunch stop in Pucusana, then we discovered that they were all over the barren plains around us.
PLOVERS AND LAPWINGS (Charadriidae)
Pied Lapwing (Plover) (Vanellus cayanus)
Andean Lapwing (Vanellus resplendens)
Killdeer (Charadrius vociferus)
Collared Plover (Charadrius collaris)
SANDPIPERS AND ALLIES (Scolopacidae)
Whimbrel (Numenius phaeopus)
Greater Yellowlegs (Tringa melanoleuca)
Lesser Yellowlegs (Tringa flavipes)
Spotted Sandpiper (Actitis macularia)
Ruddy Turnstone (Arenaria interpres)
Sanderling (Calidris alba)
Least Sandpiper (Calidris minutilla)
Pectoral Sandpiper (Calidris melanotos)
Wilson's Phalarope (Phalaropus tricolor)
Belcher's (Band-tailed) Gull (Larus belcheri) - Pucusana.
Gray Gull (Larus modestus) - San Pedro beach.
Kelp Gull (Larus dominicanus) - San Pedro beach.
Gray-headed (-hooded) Gull (Larus cirrocephalus) - Pucusana.
Andean Gull (Larus serranus) - Common in the highlands.
Franklin's Gull (Larus pipixcan) - A few at Pantanos de Villa.
Yellow-billed Tern (Sterna superciliaris)
Large-billed Tern (Phaetusa simplex)
Inca Tern (Larosterna inca) - They just about took fish right out of our hands. What a cool tern.
Black Skimmer (Rynchops niger) - We saw more than normal along the Madre de Diós.
PIGEONS AND DOVES (Columbidae)
Rock Pigeon (Dove) (Columba livia)
Spot-winged Pigeon (Columba maculosa) - Common in the dry inter-Andean valleys.
Band-tailed Pigeon (Columba fasciata)
Pale-vented Pigeon (Columba cayennensis)
Plumbeous Pigeon (Columba plumbea)
Ruddy Pigeon (Columba subvinacea)
Eared Dove (Zenaida auriculata)
Pacific (West Peruvian) Dove (Zenaida meloda)
Ruddy Ground-Dove (Columbina talpacoti)
Croaking Ground-Dove (Columbina cruziana)
Bare-faced Ground-Dove (Metriopelia ceciliae) - The only one we saw at Huacarpay was being eaten by a kestrel. We found another much later near the hotel in Urubamba.
Gray-fronted Dove (Leptotila rufaxilla)
White-throated Quail-Dove (Geotrygon frenata)
Ruddy Quail-Dove (Geotrygon montana) (H)
PARROTS, MACAWS, ETC (Psittacidae)
Blue-and-yellow Macaw (Ara ararauna) - Seen daily during our stay at MWC.
Military Macaw (Ara militaris) - A pair flew over us not far below San Pedro. This is the scarcest macaw in the region.
Scarlet Macaw (Ara macao) - Seen daily during our stay at MWC. There were also several hanging around the lodge that were clearly tame.
Red-and-green Macaw (Ara chloroptera) - Seen daily during our stay at MWC.
Chestnut-fronted Macaw (Ara severa) - Every day in the lowlands.
Red-bellied Macaw (Orthopsittaca manilata) - This one was more difficult. When they flew close by they were in the sun and hard to see the colors.
Blue-headed Macaw (Propyrrhura couloni) - Fabulous views of a pair that actually responded to tape at the mirador on the Atalaya Ridge.
Mitred Parakeet (Aratinga mitrata) - Flyovers at Urubamba and Aguas Calientes, but unfortunately never seen well.
White-eyed Parakeet (Aratinga leucophthalmus)
Dusky-headed Parakeet (Aratinga weddellii)
Red-crowned (Painted) Parakeet (Pyrrhura picta) - Several flew across Cocha Camungo. The distinctive head pattern was visible for a few seconds.
Andean Parakeet (Bolborhynchus orbygnesius) - We stopped for a small flock feeding in a bush a few kms below Abra Malaga.
Cobalt-winged Parakeet (Brotogeris cyanoptera)
Tui Parakeet (Brotogeris sanctithomae) - Surprisingly few this year - the only definite sighting was at the parrot lick, where we saw them well in the scope.
White-bellied Parrot (Pionites leucogaster) (H) - The cold and windy weather in the MWC canopy tower cost us this one - it's usually easy to see up there.
Orange-cheeked Parrot (Pionopsitta barrabandi) - A single bird scoped at the parrot lick.
Blue-headed Parrot (Pionus menstruus)
Speckle-faced Parrot (Pionus tumultuosus) - Sometimes split from the northern race and called Plum-crowned Parrot. Good views of a small flock settled along the upper Manu road near the landslide.
Yellow-crowned Parrot (Amazona ochrocephala) (H)
Scaly-naped Parrot (Amazona mercenaria)
Mealy Parrot (Amazona farinosa)
Squirrel Cuckoo (Piaya cayana)
Greater Ani (Crotophaga major)
Smooth-billed Ani (Crotophaga ani)
Groove-billed Ani (Crotophaga sulcirostris)
Pavonine Cuckoo (Dromococcyx pavoninus) (H) - It would not come out of the bamboo along the lower Manu road. A pity.
TYPICAL OWLS (Strigidae)
Tawny-bellied Screech-Owl (Otus watsonii)
Yungas Pygmy-Owl (Glaucidium bolivianum) - Persistence paid off as one finally came in along the upper Manu road.
Amazonian Pygmy-Owl (Glaucidium hardyi) - One cooperative bird seen fairly easily behind the cabins at MWC.
Ferruginous Pygmy-Owl (Glaucidium brasilianum)
Long-tailed Potoo (Nyctibius aethereus) - Richard Hopf, a visiting birder, kindly tipped us off to one not far from Amazonia Lodge. We waited for it one evening and saw it well in the spotlight after it landed on a dead snag.
Common Potoo (Nyctibius griseus)
NIGHTJARS AND ALLIES (Caprimulgidae)
Sand-colored Nighthawk (Chordeiles rupestris) - Huge flocks along the Rio Madre de Diós, sometimes even active in the middle of the day.
Lesser Nighthawk (Chordeiles acutipennis)
Pauraque (Nyctidromus albicollis)
Band-winged Nightjar (Caprimulgus longirostris)
Lyre-tailed Nightjar (Uropsalis lyra) - We got up early one morning to look for it near the Mirador above San Pedro, and had a good view of a perched male and briefly saw it fly. A bird that is always worth the effort.
Chestnut-collared Swift (Streptoprocne rutila)
White-collared Swift (Streptoprocne zonaris)
Pale-rumped Swift (Chaetura egregia) - We had terrible lighting conditions for most of our Chaetura swifts, rendering them unidentifiable. I'm sure I saw at least one Pale-rumped; some of them were likely Gray-rumps.
Short-tailed Swift (Chaetura brachyura)
White-tipped Swift (Aeronautes montivagus)
Andean Swift (Aeronautes andecolus)
Fork-tailed (Neotropical) Palm-Swift (Tachornis squamata)
Lesser Swallow-tailed Swift (Panyptila cayennensis)
Rufous-breasted Hermit (Glaucis hirsuta)
Green Hermit (Phaethornis guy)
Koepcke's Hermit (Phaethornis koepckeae) - Brief but good looks at a couple at the base of the hills at Amazonia Lodge.
Reddish Hermit (Phaethornis ruber)
White-browed Hermit (Phaethornis stuarti) - A good view of one while we were looking for a Spot-backed Antbird, also at the base of the hills at Amazonia.
Gray-breasted Sabrewing (Campylopterus largipennis) - The only hummer that comes to the feeders at Amazonia - all the others feed on the flowers in the garden.
White-necked Jacobin (Florisuga mellivora)
Green Violet-ear (Colibri thalassinus)
Sparkling Violet-ear (Colibri coruscans)
Rufous-crested Coquette (Lophornis delattrei) - We missed it our first day at Amazonia, making us sweat (or was that the humidity?), but fortunately it turned up twice at the Verbina flowers on the second day.
Wire-crested Thorntail (Popelairia popelairii) - We briefly saw a female at an Inga tree on the lower Manu road.
Blue-tailed Emerald (Chlorostilbon mellisugus)
Fork-tailed Woodnymph (Thalurania furcata)
Golden-tailed Sapphire (Chrysuronia oenone)
White-bellied Hummingbird (Leucippus chionogaster) - Quite common around our hotel in Urubamba.
Green-and-white Hummingbird (Leucippus viridicauda) - A localized endemic - common at the feeders at Machu Picchu Pueblo Hotel.
Many-spotted Hummingbird (Leucippus hypostictus) - Several at the feeders at COTRL, and another at a flowering Inga tree farther down the Manu road.
Sapphire-spangled Emerald (Polyerata lactea) - José found a male in a farm along the lower Manu road.
Speckled Hummingbird (Adelomyia melanogenys)
Fawn-breasted Brilliant (Heliodoxa rubinoides) - A good view of a single male along the Manu road, where it is extremely rare. A first for this tour.
Violet-fronted Brilliant (Heliodoxa leadbeateri) - Common at the COTRL feeders.
Chestnut-breasted Coronet (Boissonneaua matthewsii) - Some brief views on the Manu road, but they were abundant at the feeders at Machu Picchu Pueblo Hotel
Shining Sunbeam (Aglaeactis cupripennis)
White-tufted Sunbeam (Aglaeactis castelnaudii) - A Peruvian endemic, and a nice one to find on the dry side of Abra Malaga.
Andean Hillstar (Oreotrochilus estella) - Nice views of a male and a female at Huancarani.
Gould's (Collared) Inca (Coeligena inca) - An outrageously beautiful hummer, plentiful at the feeders at Machu Picchu Pueblo Hotel. Formerly considered a race of Collared Inca.
Violet-throated Starfrontlet (Coeligena violifer) - Most missed it on the Manu road, but we got it back with an obliging male near the entrance to Machu Picchu.
Sword-billed Hummingbird (Ensifera ensifera) - Good long views at the Creamy-crested Spinetail site on the Manu road. The only bird that can't preen with its beak.
Giant Hummingbird (Patagona gigas)
Amethyst-throated Sunangel (Heliangelus amethysticollis)
Buff-thighed Puffleg (Haplophaedia assimilis) - Several seen along the mid-upper parts of the Manu road. The one we photographed with the buff feather edgings was an immature.
Booted Racket-tail (Ocreatus underwoodii)
Black-tailed Trainbearer (Lesbia victoriae)
Green-tailed Trainbearer (Lesbia nuna)
Purple-backed Thornbill (Ramphomicron microrhynchum) - José was the only one to see its back, and he convinced me that's what it was. It was a fair way down the west side of Abra Ajacnacu.
Bearded Mountaineer (Oreonympha nobilis) - The star bird of Laguna Huacarpay. They were numerous this year due the quantity of flowering tobacco plants around the lake.
Tyrian Metaltail (Metallura tyrianthina)
Long-tailed Sylph (Aglaiocercus kingi)
Black-eared Fairy (Heliothryx aurita)
White-bellied Woodstar (Chaetocercus mulsant)
(Amazonian) Violaceous Trogon (Trogon violaceus)
Collared Trogon (Trogon collaris)
Masked Trogon (Trogon personatus)
Blue-crowned Trogon (Trogon curucui)
Black-tailed Trogon (Trogon melanurus)
Crested Quetzal (Pharomachrus antisianus) - The first three-quetzal trip I've ever done. This one Jose tracked down for us after he heard it below COTRL.
Golden-headed Quetzal (Pharomachrus auriceps) - Easily seen from the van as we descended the Manu road.
Pavonine Quetzal (Pharomachrus pavoninus) - A terrific score on our last afternoon at MWC.
Ringed Kingfisher (Ceryle torquata)
Amazon Kingfisher (Chloroceryle amazona)
Green Kingfisher (Chloroceryle americana)
Green-and-rufous Kingfisher (Chloroceryle inda) - One briefly seen in flight at Cocha Blanco.
American Pygmy Kingfisher (Chloroceryle aenea) - Two along the edge of Cocha Blanco.
Blue-crowned Motmot (Momotus momota)
Highland Motmot (Momotus aequatorialis)
Broad-billed Motmot (Electron platyrhynchum)
Chestnut (Purus) Jacamar (Galbalcyrhynchus purusianus) - We found them from the floating platform on Cocha Camungo before the sandflies got the best of us and drive us back into the forest.
Bluish-fronted Jacamar (Galbula cyanescens)
Great Jacamar (Jacamerops aureus) - José got one near the MWC tower; unfortunately no one else did.
Chestnut-capped Puffbird (Bucco macrodactylus) - We saw one shoot out of a hole in a termite nest, but even though we staked out the nest a few times, we never saw it again. The nest was right over one of the main trails at Amazonia, so maybe the birds decided to start again somewhere else.
Collared Puffbird (Bucco capensis) - A stunning bird by any measure and one of the favorites on the trip. We lucked out on this one, finding it perched silently near the Creekside trail at MWC. See the photo earlier in this report.
Striolated Puffbird (Nystalus striolatus) - This is one that you can spend hours on, but this year we lucked out. There was one perched in the open by the side of the road in surprisingly disturbed habitat along the lower Manu road.
Semicollared Puffbird (Malacoptila semicincta) - Another beauty that we saw on the Creekside trail at MWC.
Rufous-capped (Gray-cheeked) Nunlet (Nonnula ruficapilla) - We tried at my stakeout on the Antthrush trail at MWC, but it came in about 20 meters farther down the trail and only José managed to see it.
Black-fronted Nunbird (Monasa nigrifrons)
White-fronted Nunbird (Monasa morphoeus)
Swallow-wing (Swallow-winged Puffbird) (Chelidoptera tenebrosa)
Gilded Barbet (Capito auratus) - What happened here? This one's usually a dead cert, a gimme. Not this year. I think that in the end only José and I had actually seen it. Another casualty of the friaje.
Lemon-throated Barbet (Eubucco richardsoni) - It took a while, but we finally chased down a female at Amazonia lodge and got it in the scopes.
Versicolored Barbet (Eubucco versicolor) - We saw them in several mixed flocks along the middle Manu road. This year it never turned up at the COTRL feeders.
Black-throated (Emerald) Toucanet (Aulacorhynchus atrogularis) - We saw them on several occasions at Amazonia.
Blue-banded Toucanet (Aulacorhynchus coeruleicinctis) - We had good views on both of our days un the upper Manu road.
Ivory-billed (Brown-mandibled) Araçari (Pteroglossus azara)
Chestnut-eared Araçari (Pteroglossus castanotis)
Curl-crested Araçari (Pteroglossus beauharnaesii) - The best of the aracaris in my opinion, and quite scarce down here. We had not recorded it on any of the previous tours. Good views at MWC.
Gray-breasted Mountain-Toucan (Andigena hypoglauca) - We also so this one twice along the upper Manu road.
Channel-billed (Yellow-ridged) Toucan (Ramphastos vitellinus)
White-throated (Cuvier's) Toucan (Ramphastos tucanus)
WOODPECKERS AND PICULETS (Picidae)
Ocellated Piculet (Picumnus dorbygnianus) - Nice close views near the entrance to Machu Picchu.
Fine-barred Piculet (Picumnus subtilis) - Several seen near Amazonia Lodge.
Yellow-tufted Woodpecker (Melanerpes cruentatus)
Bar-bellied Woodpecker (Veniliornis nigriceps) (H)
Little Woodpecker (Veniliornis passerinus)
White-throated Woodpecker (Piculus leucolaemus) - One of the few birds that we actually saw from the MWC tower.
Golden-olive Woodpecker (Piculus rubiginosus)
Crimson-mantled Woodpecker (Piculus rivolii) (H)
Spot-breasted Woodpecker (Colaptes punctigula)
Andean Flicker (Colaptes rupicola)
Cream-colored Woodpecker (Celeus flavus) - He was flying back and forth 30 meters up in the canopy. Atrocious views.
Rufous-headed Woodpecker (Celeus spectabilis) - It was tapping very low down in dense bamboo on the Antthrush trail at MWC, and it took a long time to track down. It's always worth spending time on this one as it truly is one of the most beautiful birds in the region.
Lineated Woodpecker (Dryocopus lineatus)
Red-necked Woodpecker (Campephilus rubricollis) - José spotted one perched surprisingly low down near the Creekside trail at MWC. Good views for all.
Crimson-crested Woodpecker (Campephilus melanoleucos)
Peruvian Seaside (Surf) Cinclodes (Cinclodes taczanowskii) - We saw two pairs during the boat ride at Pucusana.
Bar-winged Cinclodes (Cinclodes fuscus)
White-winged Cinclodes (Cinclodes atacamensis)
Pale-legged Hornero (Furnarius leucopus)
Wren-like Rushbird (Phleocryptes melanops)
Azara's Spinetail (Synallaxis azarae)
Dark-breasted Spinetail (Synallaxis albigularis) (H)
Cabanis's Spinetail (Synallaxis cabanisi) - A regional specialty, found only in bamboo thickets in southern Peru and western Bolivia. We saw it best on the lower Manu road, then again briefly on the Antthrush trail at MWC..
Plain-crowned Spinetail (Synallaxis gujanensis)
Creamy-crested Spinetail (Cranioleuca albicapilla) - Definitely one of the coolest spinetails out there. We saw it at the usual stakeout on the Manu road between Paucartambo and Ajacnacu pass.
Ash-browed Spinetail (Cranioleuca curtata) (H)
Rusty-fronted Canastero (Asthenes ottonis) - Easily seen this year around Laguna Huacarpay.
Line-fronted Canastero (Asthenes urubambensis) (H)
Plain Softtail (Phacellodomus fusciceps) - With a bit of work we saw an excited, chattering family party not far from the tower at MWC.
Spotted Barbtail (Premnoplex brunnescens)
Pearled Treerunner (Margarornis squamiger)
Slender-billed Xenops (Xenops tenuirostris) - One in a mixed flock at Amazonia.
Plain Xenops (Xenops minutus)
Streaked Xenops (Xenops rutilans)
Montane Foliage-gleaner (Anabacerthia striaticollis)
Striped Treehunter (Thripadectes holostictus)
Black-billed Treehunter (Thripadectes melanorhynchus) - One evening Trevor and I watched one hop around on the ground in the garden of COTRL - very unusual for a bird that is typically a notorious skulker.
Peruvian Recurvebill (Simoxenops ucayalae) - A tough regional specialty, and we really nailed it this year with a prolonged view of one along the MWC Antthrush trail.
Chestnut-winged Hookbill (Ancistrops strigilatus)
Chestnut-winged Foliage-gleaner (Philydor erythropterus) (H)
Buff-fronted Foliage-gleaner (Philydor rufus)
Crested (Dusky-cheeked) Foliage-gleaner (Automolus dorsalis) - For once easy to see in the bamboo along the lower Manu road, including two birds that were very intent on pulling each other's tail feathers out.
Buff-throated Foliage-gleaner (Automolus ochrolaemus)
Chestnut-crowned Foliage-gleaner (Automolus rufipileatus)
Olive-backed Foliage-gleaner (Automolus infuscatus)
Black-tailed Leaftosser (Sclerurus caudacutus) (H)
Sharp-tailed Streamcreeper (Lochmias nematura) - A stroke of luck to have a pair fly across the road in front of the van on the Manu road. It was even luckier that they were still there when we all got out of the vehicle.
Plain-brown Woodcreeper (Dendrocincla fuliginosa)
Long-tailed Woodcreeper (Deconychura longicauda) - Visually not very distinctive, but it has an amazing song, a haunting downward series of slurred whistles that I never tire of hearing.
Olivaceous Woodcreeper (Sittasomus griseicapillus)
Wedge-billed Woodcreeper (Glyphorynchus spirurus)
Long-billed Woodcreeper (Nasica longirostris) - "Tree Curlew" as one of my groups from last year took to calling it. We called one in from the tower at Camungo for a nice look.
Cinnamon-throated Woodcreeper (Dendrexetastes rufigula)
Strong-billed Woodcreeper (Xiphocolaptes promeropirhynchus)
Amazonian Barred-Woodcreeper (Dendrocolaptes certhia)
Black-banded Woodcreeper (Dendrocolaptes picumnus)
Jurua (Spix's/Elegant) Woodcreeper (Xiphorhynchus juruanus) - Recently split from Elegant Woodcreeper, though for the life of me I can't understand why - they look the same, sound the same, behave the same, live in the same habitat... We saw it at MWC on the Creekside trail.
Lafresnaye's (Buff-throated) Woodcreeper (Xiphorhynchus guttatoides)
Olive-backed Woodcreeper (Xiphorhynchus triangularis)
Straight-billed Woodcreeper (Dendroplex picus)
Lineated Woodcreeper (Lepidocolaptes albolineatus) - One was nesting in the garden of Amazonia lodge.
Red-billed Scythebill (Campylorhamphus trochilirostris)
TYPICAL ANTBIRDS (Thamnophilidae)
Fasciated Antshrike (Cymbilaimus lineatus) (H)
Bamboo Antshrike (Cymbilaimus sanctaemariae) - We coaxed in a calling male in a bamboo patch on the lower Manu road.
Great Antshrike (Taraba major)
Barred Antshrike (Thamnophilus doliatus) (H)
Chestnut-backed Antshrike (Thamnophilus palliatus)
White-shouldered Antshrike (Thamnophilus aethiops) (H)
Plain-winged Antshrike (Thamnophilus schistaceus)
Variable Antshrike (Thamnophilus caerulescens)
Spot-winged Antshrike (Pygiptila stellaris)
Dusky-throated Antshrike (Thamnomanes ardesiacus)
Bluish-slate Antshrike (Thamnomanes schistogynus) - Frequent views of this understory flock leader in the lowlands.
Pygmy Antwren (Myrmotherula brachyura)
Sclater's Antwren (Myrmotherula sclateri) - A canopy flock along the Toucan loop at MWC came down low enough for us to get a decent view of this SW Amazonian specialty.
Amazonian (Streaked-) Antwren (Myrmotherula multostriata) (H)
Stripe-chested Antwren (Myrmotherula longicauda) - Several nice looks at both males and females in and around COTRL.
Stipple-throated Antwren (Myrmotherula haematonota) - A good response from a female along the Creekside trail at MWC.
Foothill Antwren (Myrmotherula spodionota) - A male came into the tape in a forest patch along the lower Manu road.
Ornate Antwren (Myrmotherula ornata) - The race in S Peru is not very ornate. The first one was in bamboo not far below COTRL. We found another at Amazonia lodge.
White-flanked Antwren (Myrmotherula axillaris)
Slaty Antwren (Myrmotherula schisticolor)
Long-winged Antwren (Myrmotherula longipennis) (H)
Gray Antwren (Myrmotherula menetriesii)
Yellow-breasted Antwren (Herpsilochmus axillaris) - We finally got it at the last minute in a mixed flock on the lower Manu road.
Dot-winged Antwren (Microrhopias quixensis)
Chestnut-shouldered Antwren (Terenura humeralis) (H)
Gray Antbird (Cercomacra cinerascens)
Blackish Antbird (Cercomacra nigrescens) - Terrific views of a pair on the Antthrush trail at MWC. This species will possibly be renamed "Riparian Antbird" in the near future when the montane race aequatorialis of Colombia to N Peru is split off.
Black Antbird (Cercomacra serva) (H)
Manu Antbird (Cercomacra manu) - Not so easy to find this year, but we eventually located a male on the Antthrush trail.
White-backed Fire-eye (Pyriglena leuconota) - Seen by some of us at COTRL.
White-browed Antbird (Myrmoborus leucophrys)
Black-faced Antbird (Myrmoborus myotherinus) - Terrific close-up views of a male at MWC.
Warbling Antbird (Hypocnemis cantator)
Band-tailed Antbird (Hypocnemoides maculicauda) - Only heard at Amazonia, but some of the group saw it from the log bridge at MWC.
Silvered Antbird (Sclateria naevia) - A few glimpses of a male along the pond at Amazonia.
White-lined Antbird (Percnostola lophotes) - Easily seen along the jeep track at Amazonia.
Southern Chestnut-tailed Antbird (Myrmeciza hemimelaena) - On about our fourth try, we all finally got a nice view of this distinctive bird.
Plumbeous Antbird (Myrmeciza hyperythra) - Beautiful views of a male near the log bridge at MWC.
Goeldi's Antbird (Myrmeciza goeldii) - A few good encounters at Amazonia.
Black-throated Antbird (Myrmeciza atrothorax) - A frustrating bird this year. A few of us had a short but decent view
White-throated Antbird (Gymnopithys salvini) - I was the only one to get the male, but we all had a superb view of a female on the Creekside trail at MWC.
Hairy-crested Antbird (Rhegmatorhina melanosticta) - They wouldn't stay put for more than half a second, so few, if any, of the group had any kind of a decent view of it. An exceedingly shy bird even at antswarms, and this pair was away from one along the Toucan trail at MWC.
Spot-backed Antbird (Hylophylax naevia) - It came in so furtively that only a few of us got a look at Amazonia.
Scale-backed Antbird (Hylophylax poecilinota) - I briefly glimpsed a female near the Black-faced Antbird.
Black-spotted Bare-eye (Phlegopsis nigromaculata) - Terrific views of this gorgeous bird at antswarms at both Amazonia lodge and MWC.
ANTTHRUSHES & ANTPITTAS (Formicariidae)
Rufous-capped Antthrush (Formicarius colma) - Great views on the MWC trails. The only antthrush that will regularly fly in to playback rather than walking.
Black-faced Antthrush (Formicarius analis)
Rufous-fronted Antthrush (Formicarius rufifrons) - A local specialty and the bird that gave the Antthrush Trail its name. For once it actually came in all the way to the trail and we all were able to see it well.
Rufous-breasted Antthrush (Formicarius rufipectus) (H)
Barred Antthrush (Chamaeza mollissima) (H)
Scaled Antpitta (Grallaria guatimalensis) (H)
Red-and-white Antpitta (Grallaria erythroleuca) (H)
Amazonian Antpitta (Hylopezus berlepschi) (H)
Thrush-like Antpitta (Myrmothera campanisona) (H)
Slaty Gnateater (Conopophaga ardesiaca) - A cooperative female along the trails at COTRL.
Rusty-belted Tapaculo (Liosceles thoracicus) - A lengthy effort at Amazonia finally yielded nice long views in the open.
Trilling Tapaculo (Scytalopus parvirostris) (H)
Bolivian (Southern White-crowned) Tapaculo (Scytalopus bolivianus) - After a few attempts we finally convinced one to come in where we could see it along the Manu road.
Red-crested Cotinga (Ampelion rubrocristata)
Band-tailed Fruiteater (Pipreola intermedia) - We saw this one at the rather low elevation of 1900m during our waiting-for-the-landslide-to-be-cleared walk on the Manu road.
Barred Fruiteater (Pipreola arcuata) (H)
Masked Fruiteater (Pipreola pulchra) - Finally got it not far from the Machu Picchu trail station after failing to find two calling individuals earlier in the day. A striking Peruvian endemic - see José's photo earlier on in the report.
Screaming Piha (Lipaugus vociferans)
Purple-throated Cotinga (Porphyrolaema porphyrolaema) (H)
Plum-throated Cotinga (Cotinga maynana)
Bare-necked Fruitcrow (Gymnoderus foetidus)
Purple-throated Fruitcrow (Querula purpurata)
Amazonian Umbrellabird (Cephalopterus ornatus) - Single females seen near COTRL and Amazonia.
Andean Cock-of-the-rock (Rupicola peruviana) - Lots of males displaying at the lek near COTRL - check out José's photo at the end of the list.
Blue-backed Manakin (Chiroxiphia pareola) - There was a beautiful male there for a few seconds for those were lucky enough to be looking in the right place. We saw manakins on the Quetzal trail, A quetzal on the Tinamou trail, a tinamou on the... well, you get the idea. That's the problem with naming trails after birds.
Yungas Manakin (Chiroxiphia boliviana) - One did come out in the open near the feeders at COTRL, unfortunately most of the group were in their rooms at the time. Incredibly vocal, but surprisingly difficult to see.
Band-tailed Manakin (Pipra fasciicauda) - José found a brilliant spot to see these near Amazonia. We watched stunning males repeatedly coming in to the same perches near the trail. José's photo can be found at the start of this list.
Round-tailed Manakin (Pipra chloromeros) - The lek not far along the hill forest trail at Amazonia was active again this year. We didn't have to wait long before seeing some cracking males.
Fiery-capped Manakin (Machaeropterus pyrocephalus) - Again José found the right site for them, with most getting nice views of the unique males not far from Amazonia Lodge.
Sulphur-bellied Tyrant-Manakin (Neopelma sulphureiventer) - A surprise along the Antthrush trail at MWC.
Dwarf Tyrant-Manakin (Tyranneutes stolzmanni)
Wing-barred Piprites (Manakin) (Piprites chloris) (H)
Greater (Varzea) Schiffornis (Schiffornis major) - One of those birds that seems to teleport from one invisible perch to another. A few of us glimpsed it but no one saw it well.
TYRANT FLYCATCHERS (Tyrannidae)
White-lored Tyrannulet (Ornithion inerme) - Quite vocal around Amazonia Lodge, making it fairly easy to find this year.
Yellow Tyrannulet (Capsiempsis flaveola) (H)
Yellow-crowned Tyrannulet (Tyrannulus elatus)
Forest Elaenia (Myiopagis gaimardii) (H)
Yellow-bellied Elaenia (Elaenia flavogaster)
White-crested Elaenia (Elaenia albiceps)
Mottle-backed Elaenia (Elaenia gigas)
Sierran Elaenia (Elaenia pallatangae)
Torrent Tyrannulet (Serpophaga cinerea)
Ochre-bellied Flycatcher (Mionectes oleagineus)
Streak-necked Flycatcher (Mionectes striaticollis)
Olive-striped Flycatcher (Mionectes olivaceus)
Inca Flycatcher (Leptopogon taczanowskii) - We got a couple in mixed flocks as we walked downhill while waiting for that darn landslide to be cleared on the Manu road.
Sepia-capped Flycatcher (Leptopogon amaurocephalus)
Slaty-capped Flycatcher (Leptopogon superciliaris)
Marble-faced Bristle-Tyrant (Pogonotriccus ophthalmicus)
Cinnamon-faced Tyrannulet (Phylloscartes parkeri) - Several seen around COTRL and the lower Manu road.
Mottle-cheeked Tyrannulet (Phylloscartes ventralis) - Numerous around Machu Picchu and Aguas Calientes, not seen elsewhere.
Sclater's Tyrannulet (Phyllomyias sclateri) - One seen along the railroad tracks just outside Aguas Calientes.
Black-capped Tyrannulet (Phyllomyias nigrocapillus)
Ashy-headed Tyrannulet (Phyllomyias cinereiceps) - I called one shortly after seeing the previous two spp.
Bolivian Tyrannulet (Zimmerius bolivianus) - First at COTRL and then later near Machu Picchu.
Amazonian Scrub-Flycatcher (Sublegatus obscurior) (H)
White-throated Tyrannulet (Mecocerculus leucophrys)
White-banded Tyrannulet (Mecocerculus stictopterus)
Plain Tyrannulet (Inezia inornata) - Apparently an austral migrant to the Manu area. Oddly, we saw one from the canopy tower at Cocha Camungo. You would expect them in the bushes around the lake, but this guy came high up into the canopy of a tree near the tower.
Yellow-billed Tit-Tyrant (Anairetes flavirostris) - Laguna Huacarpay.
Tufted Tit-Tyrant (Anairetes parulus)
Many-colored Rush-Tyrant (Tachuris rubrigastra) - A flycatcher with the colors of a tanager. I never tire of seeing this sprightly bird. We saw them at Laguna Huacarpay.
Scale-crested Pygmy-Tyrant (Lophotriccus pileatus)
Rusty-fronted Tody-Flycatcher (Poecilotriccus latirostris) (H)
Black-backed Tody-Flycatcher (Poecilotriccus pulchellus) - What a bird! One of the more colorful flycatchers; we saw a pair well along the lower Manu road. They were split from Golden-winged Tody-Flycatcher (P. calopterus) of N Peru and E Ecuador, but I am skeptical that this was the proper move. Vocalizations are identical - we used a recording of calopterus to call it in, and it responded beautifully.
White-bellied (White-eyed) Tody-Tyrant (Hemitriccus griseipectus) - No one seemed too pleased with the rear-end view of this uninspiring tyrannid, even through it was in the scope and calling away.
Johannes's Tody-Tyrant (Hemitriccus iohannis)
Black-throated Tody-Tyrant (Hemitriccus granadensis) - We saw one with difficulty along the upper Manu road.
Spotted Tody-Flycatcher (Todirostrum maculatum) - A calling speck high in the canopy as we paddled along the lake at Cocha Camungo. I don't think anyone actually counted this one. Normally they are found quite low down - what was this one doing?
Common Tody-Flycatcher (Todirostrum cinereum) (H)
Yellow-browed Tody-Flycatcher (Todirostrum chrysocrotaphum)
Large-headed Flatbill (Ramphotrigon megacephala) (H)
Rufous-tailed Flatbill (Ramphotrigon ruficauda) - Two seen well along the Manakin trail at MWC.
Yellow-olive Flycatcher (Flatbill) (Tolmomyias sulphurescens) (H)
Gray-crowned Flycatcher (Flatbill) (Tolmomyias poliocephalus) (H)
Yellow-breasted Flycatcher (Olive-faced Flatbill) (Tolmomyias flaviventris)
Golden-crowned Spadebill (Platyrinchus coronatus)
White-crested Spadebill (Platyrinchus platyrhynchos) - Terrific views of this hard-to-find spadebill on the Toucan trail at MWC.
Ornate Flycatcher (Myiotriccus ornatus)
Ochraceous-breasted Flycatcher (Myiophobus ochraceiventris) - Surprisingly numerous this year in mixed flocks on the upper Manu road. We usually have more difficulty finding it.
Bran-colored Flycatcher (Myiophobus fasciatus)
Ruddy-tailed Flycatcher (Terenotriccus erythrurus) (H)
Cinnamon Flycatcher (Pyrrhomyias cinnamomea)
Euler's Flycatcher (Lathrotriccus euleri)
Smoke-colored Pewee (Contopus fumigatus)
Black Phoebe (Sayornis nigricans)
Vermilion Flycatcher (Pyrocephalus rubinus)
Peruvian (Crowned) Chat-Tyrant (Ochthoeca spodionota) - A few of us glimpsed one in a flock below the pass on the Manu road. Recently split from Crowned Chat-Tyrant.
Maroon-chested (-belted) Chat-Tyrant (Ochthoeca thoracica) (H)
Rufous-breasted Chat-Tyrant (Ochthoeca rufipectoralis)
White-browed Chat-Tyrant (Ochthoeca leucophrys)
Drab Water-Tyrant (Ochthornis littoralis)
Streak-throated Bush-Tyrant (Myiotheretes striaticollis)
Black-billed Shrike-Tyrant (Agriornis montana)
Spot-billed Ground-Tyrant (Muscisaxicola maculirostris)
Little Ground-Tyrant (Muscisaxicola fluviatilis) - One entertained us while we watched parrots at the lick near MWC.
Rufous-naped Ground-Tyrant (Muscisaxicola rufivertex)
Cinereous Ground-Tyrant (Muscisaxicola cinereus)
Short-tailed Field-Tyrant (Muscigralla brevicauda) - We tracked a few down in the fields near Pucusana where we had our picnic lunch.
Andean Negrito (Lessonia oreas) - A few at Laguna Huacarpay on the first day. That's the only place we ever see them on this tour.
White-winged Black-Tyrant (Knipolegus aterrimus)
Long-tailed Tyrant (Colonia colonus)
Bright-rumped Attila (Attila spadiceus) (H)
Dull-capped (White-eyed) Attila (Attila bolivianus) - José spotted one in a mixed flock at MWC. Heard often here.
Cinereous Mourner (Laniocera hypopyrra) - We had a good scope view of one at MWC. They seem easier to see here than anywhere else I know - there are several leks right along the trails.
(Eastern) Sirystes (Sirystes sibilator)
Grayish Mourner (Rhytipterna simplex) - We saw one shortly before finding the Cinereous Mourner. Maybe they should change the name of the trail from "Toucan Loop" to "Mourner Loop"?
Dusky-capped Flycatcher (Myiarchus tuberculifer)
Swainson's Flycatcher (Myiarchus swainsoni)
Short-crested Flycatcher (Myiarchus ferox)
Lesser Kiskadee (Philohydor lictor)
Great Kiskadee (Pitangus sulphuratus)
Boat-billed Flycatcher (Megarynchus pitangua)
Social Flycatcher (Myiozetetes similis)
Gray-capped Flycatcher (Myiozetetes granadensis)
Dusky-chested Flycatcher (Myiozetetes luteiventris) - Several seen out along the streams behind Amazonia Lodge.
Lemon-browed Flycatcher (Conopias cinchoneti)
Golden-crowned Flycatcher (Myiodynastes chrysocephalus)
Streaked Flycatcher (Myiodynastes maculatus)
Piratic Flycatcher (Legatus leucophaius)
Variegated Flycatcher (Empidonomus varius)
Crowned Slaty-Flycatcher (Griseotyrannus aurantioatrocristatus)
Tropical Kingbird (Tyrannus melancholicus)
Chestnut-crowned Becard (Pachyramphus castaneus)
Barred Becard (Pachyramphus versicolor)
White-winged Becard (Pachyramphus polychopterus)
Pink-throated Becard (Pachyramphus minor) (H)
Black-tailed Tityra (Tityra cayana)
Masked Tityra (Tityra semifasciata)
Brown-chested Martin (Progne tapera)
Gray-breasted Martin (Progne chalybea)
White-winged Swallow (Tachycineta albiventer)
Blue-and-white Swallow (Notiochelidon cyanoleuca)
Brown-bellied Swallow (Notiochelidon murina)
White-banded Swallow (Atticora fasciata)
White-thighed Swallow (Neochelidon tibialis) - One at Amazonia Lodge.
Southern Rough-winged Swallow (Stelgidopteryx ruficollis)
Cliff Swallow (Petrochelidon pyrrhonota) - A single seen along the Madre de Diós and several at Pantanos de Villa. Quite a rare bird in this part of South America.
Barn Swallow (Hirundo rustica)
White-capped Dipper (Cinclus leucocephalus)
Black-capped Donacobius (Donacobius atricapillus)
Thrush-like Wren (Campylorhynchus turdinus)
Fulvous Wren (Cinnycerthia fulva) - They came through in one of those wicked mixed flocks we had on the upper Manu road, unfortunately not everyone got one them.
Inca Wren (Thryothorus eisenmanni) - We saw at least three of these beauties not far from the entrance to Machu Picchu.
Moustached Wren (Thryothorus genibarbis) (H) - For the second straight year, we heard this bird on eight days yet failed to ever even get a glimpse. Why is he such a pain here? Fortunately it's a widespread species.
Buff-breasted Wren (Thryothorus leucotis) (H)
House Wren (Troglodytes aedon)
Mountain Wren (Troglodytes solstitialis)
Gray-breasted Wood-Wren (Henicorhina leucophrys)
Scaly-breasted (Southern Nightingale-) Wren (Microcerculus marginatus) (H)
Chestnut-breasted Wren (Cyphorhinus thoracicus) (H)
Musician Wren (Cyphorhinus aradus) - It's amazing song alone is enough to love it, but we also had decent views of it on the Riverside Trail at MWC.
MOCKINGBIRDS & THRASHERS (Mimidae)
Long-tailed Mockingbird (Mimus longicaudatus)
THRUSHES AND ALLIES (Turdidae)
Andean Solitaire (Myadestes ralloides)
White-eared Solitaire (Entomodestes leucotis) - We missed it in Manu, but lucked out on one along the tracks below Machu Picchu in the same tree as the Masked Fruiteater. Awesome bird.
Chiguanco Thrush (Turdus chiguanco)
Great Thrush (Turdus fuscater)
Glossy-black Thrush (Turdus serranus)
Black-billed Thrush (Turdus ignobilis)
Hauxwell's Thrush (Turdus hauxwelli) (H)
White-necked Thrush (Turdus albicollis) (H)
CROWS, JAYS AND MAGPIES (Corvidae)
Green (Inca) Jay (Cyanocorax yncas)
Purplish Jay (Cyanocorax cyanomelas)
Violaceous Jay (Cyanocorax violaceus)
White-collared Jay (Cyanolyca viridicyana) - Several along the upper Manu road. Almost always moves around in flocks with Mountain Caciques
OLD WORLD SPARROWS (Passeridae)
House Sparrow (Passer domesticus)
VIREOS AND ALLIES (Vireonidae)
Brown-capped Vireo (Vireo leucophrys)
Red-eyed (Chivi) Vireo (Vireo olivaceus) - This southern migrant race was formerly considered a distinct species.
Lemon-chested Greenlet (Hylophilus thoracicus) (H)
Dusky-capped Greenlet (Hylophilus hypoxanthus)
Tawny-crowned Greenlet (Hylophilus ochraceiceps)
SISKINS, CROSSBILLS, ETC (Fringillidae)
Hooded Siskin (Carduelis magellanica)
Olivaceous Siskin (Carduelis olivacea)
NEW WORLD WARBLERS (Parulidae)
Tropical Parula (Parula pitiayumi)
Masked Yellowthroat (Geothlypis aequinoctialis)
Slate-throated Redstart (Whitestart) (Myioborus miniatus)
Spectacled Redstart (Whitestart) (Myioborus melanocephalus)
Two-banded Warbler (Basileuterus bivittatus) - With persistence we finally got this skulking bamboo-lover along the lower Manu road.
Golden-bellied Warbler (Basileuterus chrysogaster) - First along the lower Manu road, and again a couple days later at Amazonia Lodge.
Pale-legged Warbler (Basileuterus signatus) - Middle elevations of the Manu road and also at Aguas Calientes.
Citrine Warbler (Basileuterus luteoviridis)
Russet-crowned Warbler (Basileuterus coronatus)
Three-striped Warbler (Basileuterus tristriatus)
Buff-rumped Warbler (Basileuterus fulvicauda)
Bananaquit (Coereba flaveola)
TANAGERS AND ALLIES (Thraupidae)
Chestnut-vented Conebill (Conirostrum speciosum)
Cinereous Conebill (Conirostrum cinereum)
Magpie Tanager (Cissopis leveriana)
Grass-green Tanager (Chlorornis riefferii)
Common Bush-Tanager (Chlorospingus ophthalmicus)
Short-billed (Yellow-whiskered) Bush-Tanager (Chlorospingus parvirostris)
Yellow-throated Bush-Tanager (Chlorospingus flavigularis)
Ashy-throated Bush-Tanager (Chlorospingus canigularis)
Gray-hooded Bush-Tanager (Cnemoscopus rubrirostris)
White-browed (Black-capped) Hemispingus (Hemispingus auricularis)
Superciliaried Hemispingus (Hemispingus superciliaris)
Black-eared Hemispingus (Hemispingus melanotis)
Three-striped Hemispingus (Hemispingus trifasciatus)
Rufous-chested Tanager (Thlypopsis ornata)
Rust-and-yellow Tanager (Thlypopsis ruficeps) - Many sightings along the Manu road and below Machu Picchu.
Olive (Carmiol's) Tanager (Chlorothraupis carmioli) - First along the lower Manu road, then again a few days later above Amazonia Lodge.
White-winged Shrike-Tanager (Lanio versicolor) - Super close-up views of several in mixed flocks at MWC.
Slaty Tanager (Creurgops dentata) - We saw our first pair in a huge mixed flock that we encountered along the middle parts of the Manu road as we drove down towards COTRL.
Yellow-crested Tanager (Tachyphonus rufiventer) - A male seen briefly in a flock along the lower Manu road turned out to be the only one of the trip.
White-shouldered Tanager (Tachyphonus luctuosus)
Red-crowned Ant-Tanager (Habia rubica)
Hepatic Tanager (Piranga flava)
Masked Crimson Tanager (Ramphocelus nigrogularis)
Silver-beaked Tanager (Ramphocelus carbo)
Blue-gray Tanager (Thraupis episcopus)
Blue-capped Tanager (Thraupis cyanocephala)
Blue-and-yellow Tanager (Thraupis bonariensis)
Palm Tanager (Thraupis palmarum)
Scarlet-bellied Mountain-Tanager (Anisognathus igniventris)
Yellow-throated Tanager (Iridosornis analis) - First seen in that amazing mixed flock we had along the middle part of the Manu road.
Golden-collared Tanager (Iridosornis jelskii) - Good luck with this beauty, seeing it quickly on the upper Manu road. We had very little time in its habitat and it would have been easy to miss.
Chestnut-bellied Mountain-Tanager (Delothraupis castaneoventris) - Nice views of this one too in a mixed flock on the upper Manu road.
Fawn-breasted Tanager (Pipraeidea melanonota)
Thick-billed Euphonia (Euphonia laniirostris)
Bronze-green Euphonia (Euphonia mesochrysa)
White-lored Euphonia (Euphonia chrysopasta)
White-vented Euphonia (Euphonia minuta)
Orange-bellied Euphonia (Euphonia xanthogaster)
Rufous-bellied Euphonia (Euphonia rufiventris)
Blue-naped Chlorophonia (Chlorophonia cyanea)
Orange-eared Tanager (Chlorochrysa calliparaea)
Turquoise Tanager (Tangara mexicana)
Paradise Tanager (Tangara chilensis)
Green-and-gold Tanager (Tangara schrankii)
Golden Tanager (Tangara arthus)
Golden-eared Tanager (Tangara chrysotis)
Saffron-crowned Tanager (Tangara xanthocephala)
Flame-faced Tanager (Tangara parzudakii) - A pair seen along the tracks below Machu Picchu. A rare species here as it is at its southern distributional limit.
Yellow-bellied Tanager (Tangara xanthogastra)
Spotted Tanager (Tangara punctata)
Golden-naped Tanager (Tangara ruficervix)
Blue-necked Tanager (Tangara cyanicollis)
Beryl-spangled Tanager (Tangara nigroviridis)
Blue-and-black Tanager (Tangara vassorii)
Silver-backed Tanager (Tangara viridicollis)
Opal-crowned Tanager (Tangara callophrys)
Golden-collared Honeycreeper (Iridophanes pulcherrima) - This was a nice surprise in a mixed flock along the lower Manu road. I had never seen it here before.
Yellow-bellied Dacnis (Dacnis flaviventer)
Blue Dacnis (Dacnis cayana)
Green Honeycreeper (Chlorophanes spiza)
Purple Honeycreeper (Cyanerpes caeruleus)
Swallow-Tanager (Tersina viridis)
Plush-capped Finch (Plushcap) (Catamblyrhynchus diadema)
EMBERIZINE FINCHES (Emberizidae)
Peruvian Sierra-Finch (Phrygilus punensis)
Mourning Sierra-Finch (Phrygilus fruticeti)
Plumbeous Sierra-Finch (Phrygilus unicolor)
Ash-breasted Sierra-Finch (Phrygilus plebejus)
White-winged Diuca-Finch (Diuca speculifera)
Chestnut-breasted Mountain-Finch (Poospiza caesar) - A real beauty, and endemic too. We saw plenty at Huancarani on the way to Manu, and glimpsed another few above Ollantaytambo.
Blue-black Grassquit (Volatinia jacarina)
Black-and-white Seedeater (Sporophila luctuosa)
Double-collared Seedeater (Sporophila caerulescens)
Chestnut-bellied Seedeater (Sporophila castaneiventris)
Chestnut-throated Seedeater (Sporophila telasco)
Black-billed Seed-Finch (Oryzoborus atrirostris) - Who would have thought we could have nailed down this rarity from a canopy tower? We first saw it distantly near the edge of the lake at Cocha Camungo, but later it flew to the top of a much closer cecropia for a great view. A lifer for all!
Band-tailed Seedeater (Catamenia analis)
Plain-colored Seedeater (Catamenia inornata)
Dull-colored Grassquit (Tiaris obscura) - At least five seen between Aguas Calientes and Machu Picchu. It doesn't seem to be mentioned in the Machu Picchu field guide, but I also saw them there two years ago.
Rusty Flowerpiercer (Diglossa sittoides)
Moustached Flowerpiercer (Diglossa mystacalis)
Black-throated Flowerpiercer (Diglossa brunneiventris)
Deep-blue (Golden-eyed) Flowerpiercer (Diglossopis glauca)
Masked Flowerpiercer (Diglossopis cyanea)
Bright-rumped Yellow-Finch (Sicalis uropygialis)
Red-capped Cardinal (Paroaria gularis)
Olive Finch (Lysurus castaneiceps)
Black-faced (Rufous-naped) Brush-Finch (Atlapetes melanolaimus)
Chestnut-capped Brush-Finch (Buarremon brunneinucha)
Stripe-headed Brush-Finch (Buarremon torquatus)
Pectoral Sparrow (Arremon taciturnus) - A pair came in to tape playback along the jeep track at Amazonia, giving quick but good views through the dense undergrowth.
Yellow-browed Sparrow (Ammodramus aurifrons)
Rufous-collared Sparrow (Zonotrichia capensis)
SALTATORS, CARDINALS, ETC. (Cardinalidae)
Grayish Saltator (Saltator coerulescens)
Buff-throated Saltator (Saltator maximus)
Slate-colored Grosbeak (Saltator grossus) (H)
Golden-billed Saltator (Saltator aurantiirostris)
Black-backed Grosbeak (Pheucticus aureoventris)
AMERICAN ORIOLES AND BLACKBIRDS (Icteridae)
Yellow-winged Blackbird (Agelasticus thilius)
Pale-eyed Blackbird (Agelasticus xanthophthalmus) - We found at least two of this very local icterid around the lake at Cocha Camungo, and even scoped one from the tower.
Peruvian Meadowlark (Sturnella bellicosa)
Giant Cowbird (Molothrus oryzivorus)
Yellow-rumped Cacique (Cacicus cela)
(Southern) Mountain Cacique (Cacicus chrysonotus)
Solitary Cacique (Cacicus solitarius)
Casqued Oropendola (Psarocolius oseryi)
Crested Oropendola (Psarocolius decumanus)
Dusky-green Oropendola (Psarocolius atrovirens)
Russet-backed Oropendola (Psarocolius angustifrons)
Amazonian (Olive) Oropendola (Gymnostinops bifasciatus)
This list generally follows Emmons, Louise H and François Feer. 1997. Neotropical Rainforest Mammals. A Field Guide, Second Edition. Chicago: The University of Chicago Press.
Saddleback Tamarin (Saguinus fuscicollis)
Dusky Titi Monkey (Callicebus moloch) (H)
Common Squirrel Monkey (Saimiri sciureus)
Brown Capuchin Monkey (Cebus apella)
Red Howler Monkey (Alouatta seniculus)
Common Woolly Monkey (Lagothrix lagothricha)
White-bellied Spider Monkey (Ateles belzebuth)
Short-eared Dog (Atelocynus microtis)
Peccary sp. (Tayassu sp.)
Southern Amazon Red Squirrel (Sciurus spadiceus)
Bolivian Squirrel (Sciurus ignitus)
Giant Otter (Pteronura brasiliensis)
Brown Agouti (Dasyprocta variegata)
Amazon Bamboo Rat (Dactylomys dactylinus)
South American Sea-lion (Otaria byronia)