Ethiopia: Birding with Wolves

Get up close and personal with Africa's friendliest birds

Ethiopia: Birding with Wolves

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Ethiopia has been dubbed the Cradle of Humanity and the Roof of Africa, but these epithets remain inadequate to describe its unique biological and cultural crossroads. One of Africa’s finest birding destinations, the healthy combination of lush and impressive forests, breathtaking highlands, moist and arid savannas, many endemics, and a rich assemblage of Palearctic and intra-African migrants combine to provide massive species lists. First time visitors to Ethiopia are struck by the sheer number of birds and their tame natures, living right alongside people. The cast of mammals is no less impressive. The fascinating “bleeding-heart”, or Gelada Baboon, the critically endangered Ethiopian Wolf, and the revered Wallia (Nubian Ibex) are all likely on either this tour or the extension.

Day 1: Addis Ababa. After your arrival to this historic city, we visit Gefersa reservoir in search of three endemics: Wattled Ibis, Blue-winged Goose, and Abyssinian Longclaw. We overnight in Addis Ababa

Days 2–3: Addis Ababa to Debre Libanos and Debre Birhan. Crossing the colorful Sululta Plains, where highlanders thresh their teff (a millet-like grain), we will likely see White-collared Pigeon, Red-breasted Wheatear, and Black-headed Siskin. Lunch near the Debre Libanos Monastery should introduce us to the first of many Gelada Baboon troops, the endemic Rueppell’s Chat, and White-winged Cliff-Chat. Juniper woodlands around the monastery hold Black-winged Lovebird, White-cheeked Turaco, Banded Barbet, White-backed Tit, White-billed Starling, and Black-headed Forest Oriole. The following morning we visit the nearby Jemmu Valley at dawn, where we hope to bag Harwood’s Francolin, Fox Kestrel, and many other dry country residents. One night will be spent near Debre Libanos monastery, and the following night at Debre Birhan.

Day 4: Debre Birhan to Ankober. As the morning mist burns off we will be ready to pick up Ankober Serin, a highly localized and elusive endemic only discovered in 1976. After lunch we plunge over the breath-taking cliffs of the Great Rift Valley to its foothill savannas, searching for the endemic Yellow-throated Serin. Other targets include White-rumped Babbler, Bare-faced Go-away-bird, White-throated Serin, Shining Sunbird, and Chestnut Sparrow. The night will be spent in Ankober.

Days 5–7: Awash NP. A long and thrilling drive across Afar territory promises to produce many encounters with stoic Afar tribesmen draped in cotton tunics and sporting impressive afro hairstyles. The day should be spiced up by several bustard species, including the impressive Arabian Bustard. Other desirables expected include Black-billed and Abyssinian Woodhoopoes, Yellow-breasted Barbet, Red-bellied Parrot, Nile Valley Sunbird, Lichtenstein’s Sandgrouse, and Sombre Chat. The grasslands and acacia woodlands of Awash NP may produce the poorly known Gillett’s Lark as well as the dazzling Rosy-patched Bushshrike, the spectacular Scissor-tailed Kite, the elegant Somali Fiscal, and many more. Awash also has a thriving population of Beisa Oryx, Soemmering’s Gazelle, and the impressive Hamadryas Baboon. Three nights will be spent at a lodge inside the park.

Day 8: Awash to Langano. We drive to Lake Langano, stopping at several Rift Valley lakes en route. Possibilities include Great Black-headed Gull, Black Crowned-Crane, Lesser Jacana, and African Pygmy Goose. We overnight at the edge of Lake Langano.

A Rift Valley lake gem - African Pygmy-Goose
A Rift Valley lake gem - African Pygmy-Goose  (Ken Behrens)

Day 9: Langano to Wondo Genet. Early morning birding often yields Grayish Eagle-Owl, Von der Decken’s Hornbill, White-bellied Canary, and Black-cheeked Waxbill. Palearctic visitors might include Masked Shrike and Common Nightingale. In the afternoon we drive to Wondo Genet, where the rapidly disappearing forests still harbor healthy flocks of the rare endemic Yellow-fronted Parrot. Other residents include Silvery-cheeked Hornbill, Double-toothed Barbet, Red-shouldered Cuckoo-shrike, Abyssinian Woodpecker, Abyssinian Ground-Thrush, Spotted Creeper, Sharpe’s Starling, and Brown Saw-wing. Boisterous troops of Black-and-white Colobus Monkeys also frequent the hillsides. We overnight at a nearby hotel.

Day 10: Wondo Genet to Goba. This morning we head for the Afro-alpine moorlands and highland juniper forests of the Bale highlands, where Moorland and Chestnut-naped Francolins abound, along with vivacious Abyssinian Catbirds, melodramatic Cinnamon Bracken Warblers, bold and unabashed Rouget’s Rails, and the elegant Spot-breasted Plover. We spend the next three nights in Goba.

Ethiopia holds special mammals like Beisa Oryx
Ethiopia holds special mammals like Beisa Oryx  (Ken Behrens)

Day 11: Sof Omar. Today’s mission is to find Salvadori’s Serin, one of Ethiopia’s toughest endemics. While we persevere, we should find Northern Brownbul, Somali Tit, Pygmy Batis, Irania, Somali Crow, and the startling Bristle-crowned Starling.

Day 12: Goba to Sanetti Plateau. This morning we bird Africa’s highest and most beautiful road, crossing a vast expanse of gray, spongy moorlands dotted with incandescent red-hot pokers and regal giant lobelias. We scour the spectacular scenery seeking Wattled Crane, Lammergeier, Golden Eagle, and Red-billed Chough. Handsome Ethiopian Wolves are often seen bounding across the open plains. Juniper and Hagenia forests drape over the escarpment edges, where we search for Montane Nightjar, Abyssinian Long-eared Owl, Bale Parisoma, and Abyssinian Crimson-wing.

Day 13–14: Goba to Negele. Crossing the Harenna Forest, we drive south for most of the day, stopping at several Prince Ruspoli’s Turaco stakeouts until luck smiles on us. The following day we search for the epitomy of range-restrictedness on the incredibly stark Liben Plains, where the last endangered and rapidly disappearing Sidamo Larks still occur. Further south, near Filtu, we search for Somali Crombec, Hunters Sunbird, Somali Bunting, and Banded Warbler. Both nights are spent at at Negele.

Day 15–16: Negele to Yabello. En route to Yabello we scour the Dawa River for African White-winged Dove, Juba Weaver, and Black-bellied Sunbird. Near our destination we shall admire the industrious Stresemann’s Bushcrow foraging in groups. The exquisite White-tailed Swallow, our last endemic target, is found among a whole suite of other southern specialties otherwise possible only in northern Kenya, such as Somali and Three-banded coursers, African Bare-eyed Thrush, Red-naped Bushshrike, Pringle’s Puffback, Golden-breasted Starling, and Chestnut and Parrot-billed sparrows. Two nights will be spent at Yabello.

Day 17: Yabello to Awassa. After a hearty breakfast we head for the bustling Awassa Fish Market and its busy lake, which will provide an unforgettable experience. Marabou Storks, Eastern White Pelicans, and the endemic and well-endowed Thick-billed Ravens all squabble frantically over fish scraps (and your lunch if you’re not careful). We overnight on the shores of Lake Awassa.

Day 18: Awassa to Addis Ababa. After some final morning birding around Lake Awassa, we return to Addis, targeting any possible remaining birds along the way. Night in Addis.

Day 19: Departure. Transfers to the international airport for departures will be arranged.

A CULTURAL EXTENSION is also available. Please contact us for a detailed itinerary.

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TRIP CONSIDERATIONS

CLIMATE: Hot and dry in Awash to chilly and damp on the Bale Mountains.

DIFFICULTY: Easy to moderate. The difficult parts of this trip are long drives through hot, dusty terrain.  Although the birding is exhilarating, some of these travel days are wearing. A couple of the hikes are somewhat strenuous.

ACCOMMODATION: Ranges from very basic to moderate. Roads are poor. Occasionally private facilities and hot water are unavailable.

SITE GUIDE TO ETHIOPIA

Tropical Birding guides have published a birding site guide to Ethiopia. It covers all of the major birding areas of the country, and is copiously illustrated with maps and over 110 photos. Click here to learn more.