Taiwan: Formosan Endemics

Island endemics, great food, and amazing culture.

Taiwan: Formosan Endemics

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When the Portuguese revealed Taiwan to the western world, they dubbed it “Formosa” – The Beautiful Island. Although, in a modern era, Taiwan is best known for its political defiance of mainland China, the island has a wealth of natural resources, including some of the most stunning mountain landscapes and birds in Asia. Taiwan is a continental island, lying 160 km off the coast of China, formed by the action of tectonic plates on the eastern edge of the Asian shelf; this dramatic uplift has given it the most remarkable topography. Although only 400 km long and, on average, 150 km wide, the island rises from a shallow western coastal plain to reach 4000 m at its highest peak.

In addition to the stunning landscapes Taiwan boasts friendly people, stunning culture and a cuisine that is second-to-none when it comes to tastiness, so all and visitors no matter what your particular bend are in for a great experience.

Lying in the South China sea on the tropic of cancer, the coastal lowlands are distinctly warm and muggy, but with over 15 peaks that reach above 3000 m, the interior of the island comprises a series of concentric vegetation bands that terminate in temperate coniferous forest and arctic-like alpine tundra at the highest limits. The Taiwanese bird list now stands at an impressive 450 species. Although a regular tour is likely to yield only half of that, what very few birders know about Taiwan is that it has a host of fascinating endemic birds.

A new application of the Phylogenetic Species Concept (PSC) has seen what was once considered only 15 endemic species swell to over 29, and the number keeps growing. This means that Taiwan becomes more and more important for listers with a global birding agenda. But Taiwan is a fabulous birding destination in its own right, even for those less focused on listing.

The wild interior holds some very high quality endemics, including two pheasant species, as well as a host of laughingthrushes and other snazzy endemics like Flamecrest. Added to the wealth of resident birds are a suite of migrants that occupy the island on passage between Siberia and tropical Asia between September and March. Then, in April breeding migrants such as the magical Fairy Pitta arrive, and the scarce Chinese Crested Tern returns to Matsu islet, so Taiwan has a bevy of great birds irrespective of when you time your visit.

Our itinerary below is assuming that endemics and Fairy Pitta are the optimal targets, but please speak to us if you wish to run this tour at any other time of year as our new Taiwan office means we can put together custom tours at any time of year and tweak the itinerary to take advantage of whatever is around!

Day 1: Taipei. We may have time to check out the local botanical gardens for Malayan Tiger-Heron, Light-vented Bulbul, and Japanese White-eye, as well as our first endemic, Taiwan Barbet. Our first evening is spent in Taipei’s busy, eccentric night-markets enjoying Dim-sum or trying the unique Taiwanese dumplings.

Day 2:Tsrmen to Dashueshan. We explore the lowlands and relatively developed west coast. A stop at Tsrmen may reveal the electric blue Formosan Whistling-Thrush, and the impressive Taiwan Blue Magpie, before veering into the mountainous interior of Taiwan. The mixed forests and broadleaved woodlands are beautiful and just driving through the gorges and checking out the spectacular scenery of this area is worth the drive alone. But this area is also one of the best general birding areas in Taiwan. We will enjoy three nights here.

Days 3-5: Dashueshan. Photographers have done an incredible job of making some of Taiwan’s most spectacular and impressive and skittish birds remarkably tame here. First and foremost amongst these are the magical pheasants. Both the white-backed Swinhoe’s and the regal Mikado are regular at stakeouts along the road. The pheasants are called “the kings of the mist” in local parlance, a celebration of their elegant plumage and secretive nature. The birds themselves are bold and unafraid and you will not get easier pheasants anywhere in the world to photograph and enjoy at leisure. The common but shy Taiwan Partridge is also frequently heard and often seen along this road. Although the game birds are the stars, we have the opportunity to search more many of the interior forest species including some recently split taxa such as the noisy Taiwan Bamboo Partridge, furtive Taiwan Shortwing, scarce and stunning Taiwan Thrush, dapper little Taiwan Wren-Babbler, inquisitive Taiwan Fulvetta, spectacled Flamecrest and stunning Steere’s Liochichla as well as a bevy of tits, babblers, drongos and other flock species. The mixed broadleaved forests ought to reveal some garrulous laughing-thrushes including hopefully Taiwan and Rusty Laughing-thrushes.

Day 6: Dashueshan to Tainan. After another morning of the magical forests at Dashueshan we head to Tainan. By this afternoon we will be enjoying the stunning spectacle of wintering shorebirds and waterfowl near Tainan. Our main quarry will be late Black-faced Spoonbills that may still be hanging around. However many other waterfowl are worthy of our efforts here including Asiatic Dowitcher, Sharp-tailed Sandpiper, Gray-tailed Tattler and many more. The night will be spent in Tainan.

Day 7: Tainan to Taitung. Although Tainan is a busy industrial city, it is also on the edge of the Tseng-wen estuary, one of the most important on the Asia-pacific flyway. Between September and March, Tsengwen holds 200 individuals, some 50% of the world population, of the endangered Black-faced Spoonbill. The spoonbill, however, is not the only rare bird here. The migratory Saunder’s Gull also frequents this wonderful estuary, and these species share their home with waders and ducks galore that come to Taiwan to escape the Siberian winters. Other migrants that we will look for include Red-throated Pipit, Oriental Reed Warbler, Yellow Wagtail, Slaty-backed Gull, Herring Gull, Black-tailed Gull, Common Gull, Black-headed Gull, Spot-billed Duck, Northern Shoveler, Green-winged Teal, Eurasian Wigeon, Pintail, Tufted Duck, Hen Harrier, Little Ringed Plover, Kentish Plover, Mongolian Plover, Greater Sand Plover, American Golden Plover, Grey Plover, Red-necked Stint, Long-toed Stint, Dunlin, Sharp-tailed Sandpiper, Great Knot, Common Redshank and Spotted Redshank. After more time mopping up waterbirds, we make for Taitung, where we’ll spend the night.

Day 8: Lanyu. In the morning we will take the short flight to Lanyu. This funny little island, home to people of Micronesian origin, has some interesting birds too. The local race of Whistling Green Pigeon may merit full species status. This is the only locality on this tour that yields Philippine Cuckoo-Dove, Brown-eared Bulbul and Japanese Paradise Flycatcher. But our main quarry here is nocturnal. The near-endemic Lanyu Scops Owl is quite common and we should find one easily tonight.

Day 9: Lanyu to Hualien. We return to Taitung and head for Hualien. En route we will stop at Chiphen’s low-altitude forest, to look for the magical Red Oriole. We might also see Black-naped Monarch, Black Bulbul and Black-necklaced Scimitar-Babbler, or some migrant passerines such as the magical Siberian Rubythroat, Grey Wagtail, Oriental Tree Pipit, Brown Shrike, Red-flanked Bluetail, Arctic Warbler, Black-faced Bunting, Daurian Redstart, White’s Thrush, Red-bellied Thrush, Pale Thrush, and Dusky Thrush.

Day 10: Taroko Gorge and Mt. Hohuan Shan. Today we travel via the highest road pass in Taiwan, looking for the highest altitude endemics, including the Taiwan Laughingthrush and Collared Bush-Robin. The pass also holds Ashy Wood-Pigeon, Alpine Accentor, Vinaceous Rosefinch, and Jungle Crow. However, before reaching Hohuanshan we travel on Taiwan’s most scenic road, and along one of Asia’s seven natural wonders, Taroko Gorge. This tortuous journey through vertical marble cliffs along the side of a deep, steep-sided gorge is not to be missed. We will spend the night in the town of Wushe.

Day 11: Wushe. We will explore many sites including Ao-wen Da and Chingjing for Taiwanese endemics. Targets include Alishan Bush-Warbler and babblers such as the crested Taiwan Yuhina, moustached Taiwan Sibia, cute, tail-less Taiwan Wren-Babbler, Steere’s Liocichla, and Taiwan Barwing. Joining the endemics in the mixed species parties are the Vivid Niltava, Red-headed Tit, and Brown Bullfinch.

Day 12: Wushe to Alishan. After a final morning in the Wushe area we make for Alishan.

Day 13: Yushan NP to Huben. The magical Yushan will be our last shot for montane endemics, and the stunning surroundings of this magnificent area make it a pleasure to explore. Other wanted specialties include Golden Parrotbill, and the distinctive local form of Gray-headed Bullfinch, and more chances at the incredible Mikado Pheasant if we have not been lucky yet. The day draws to a close in the western lowlands of Daoliou County.

Day 14: Huben to Taipei. Our main quarry this morning is the spectacular Fairy Pitta. Unfortunately the building of a dam here threatens the future of this species at this locality. Other species occurring here include the secretive Taiwan Partridge, Malayan Night Heron, Varied Tit, Rusty Laughingthrush, Black-streaked Scimitar Babbler and many more. After a morning in this area we head back to Taipei via the airport where we drop folks off for their international flights.

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TRIP CONSIDERATIONS

CLIMATE: Balmy in the lowlands and cool in the highlands. Rain is possible anywhere.

DIFFICULTY: Easy.

ACCOMMODATION: Good throughout.