Paraguay: Enigmatic Wildlife Tour (EWT)
Tour Overview:
Paraguay is a fascinating and under-visited country. Folks from Ohio and Pennsylvania will find some odd familiarity in the hinterlands where Mennonite communities are the chief farmers, and blonde-haired blue-eyed Paraguayans speak a Germanic-lilted-Spanish. Great jams, good beef, and fresh bread follow the people. The semiarid lowland dry forests of the Chaco are home to the highest mammal diversity in Paraguay. The Chaco’s name is derived from the Quechua word chaqu, which translates to “hunting land”. While we will be doing a different type of “hunting”, the name is a testament to the incredible diversity and density of mammals. Although much of the Chaco has been farmed and is fragmented, our hosts have secured access to a variety of very cool private reserves, and located the finest remaining patches harboring the best mammals and birds. The dry and thorny vegetated forests here help reveal a slew of enigmatic species. Throughout the tour we will use several mammal watching techniques which can vary from night drives and walks, hiking local trails, or waiting at mineral deposits and waterholes. There are a lot of mammal species in Paraguay, but we hope to see around 28-35 species. Some of the highlights being the Chaco endemic Southern Three-banded Armadillo, Azaras’s Capuchin, Azara’s Night Monkey, Geoffroy’s Cat, Giant Anteater, Lowland Tapir, Black-and-Gold Howler Monkey (extension), Plains Viscacha, Chocoan Mara, Molina's Hog-nosed Skunk and Pampas Fox. There are several rarities possible, including big cats, but there are only slim chances of these. We will also likely see quite a few bats, including the ‘mega’ Common Vampire Bat. The bird diversity is also attractive with over 450 species recorded, including many Chaco specialties. While our focus will be mammals, birding highlights may include Black-legged Seriema, Greater Rhea, Chaco Owl, Spot-breasted ‘Chaco’ Puffbird, Many-colored Chaco Finch, Crested Gallito, Chaco Earthcreeper, and Chaco Chachalaca. Part of the humid Chaco is very similar to the adjacent Pantanal, replete with flooded wetlands, and we should see a smorgasbord of waterbirds including Southern Screamer, Jabiru, Maguari Stork, and waterfowl galore including the rather local Ringed Teal. For admirers of other types of wildlife there are over 3,000 species of plants, over 200 species of reptiles and amphibians, and countless insects and other invertebrates.
Tour Details:
2026
Main Tour: 18 - 30 August
$5890; single supplement: $600*
*Singles may not be available in all locations.
Extension: 30 August - 1 September
$900; single supplement: $90
Length: 13 days (15 days with extension)
Starting City: Asunción
Ending City: Asunción
Pace: Moderate-intense
Physical Difficulty: Easy-moderate
Focus: Wildlife, Birding
Group size: 6 + 1 TB Leader
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Detailed Itinerary
Day 1: Arrival in Asunción
After arrival in Asunción, you will be transferred to our hotel in the city, where the first group activity will be dinner, when the plan for the following days will be outlined to all.
Day 2: Asunción to Monte Lindo
Our first full day will start with an early breakfast. Our first wildlife stop will be at a park on the outskirts of the Asunción, where we will search for the beautiful Azaras's Capuchin. This “vulnerable” species has wonderful pale facial markings and can be truly captivating to watch when interacting with their troop. We will also be sure to enjoy some of the local ‘eastern’ wetter forest birds found in the park, like Campo Flicker and Plush-crested Jay. Afterwards, we drive for 100-miles (200 km, 2-3 hours) until we reach Monte Lindo Reserve, located in the transition between wet and dry forest in the Chaco. Here we combine wildlife drives and short walks, including visiting some bat colonies in abandoned buildings, hoping to find Common Vampire Bat and Woolly False Vampire Bat. We will then visit a roost for the Azara’s Night Monkey at sunset to watch them as they awaken for their nocturnal activities. We will continue with a night drive to search for species like Giant Anteater, Southern Tamandua, Crab-eating Raccoon, and Capybara. Birds we hope to encounter (during the daytime), are Southern Screamer, Red-legged Seriema, Giant Wood-Rail, Chestnut-capped Blackbird and Toco Toucan. Night at a nearby hotel.
Day 3: Monte Lindo to Estancia Campo’i
After breakfast, we begin our 160-mile (260km, 5-6 hours) drive to reach Estancia Campo’i. This delightful estancia is one of the nicest places we stay on the trip. Upon arrival, we will get settled in and have lunch. Afterwards people can rest up for a long night of mammal watching to follow. There are a series of shallow ponds and the waterbirds are remarkable including Jabiru, Maguari Stork, and a slew of Whistling-Ducks and Ringed Teal. Some amazing Furnarids roam the grounds of the property including the smart Lark-like Brushrunner and incredible Scimitar-billed Woodcreeper. In the late afternoon and night we will drive throughout the property and search for species like Southern Tamandua and Six-banded Armadillo, as well as any birds that are frequenting the area, including Chaco Chachalaca, Ultramarine Grosbeak, and Turquoise-fronted Amazon. The property has water holes which are very useful for observing some of the area’s more elusive species. With some luck and patience, we may see the delightful Geoffroy’s Cat, Southern Three-banded Armadillo, and Molina’s Hog-nosed Skunk. We will be at Campo’i for a two-night stay.
Day 4: Fortin Toldeo
After an early breakfast, we head for Fortin Toledo Reserve for the day. This small nature reserve is located right next to the Chacoan Peccary Breeding Center, a fantastic place in the heart of some unique cactus forests very typical of the Dry Chaco. In this habitat we will see the presence of the mounds of the Conover’s Tuco-tuco, a member of the strange fossorial rodent family Ctenomyidae, but it is very unlikely we will see them. We will also have more opportunities on the night drive and night walk to search for Geoffroy’s Cat, Screaming Hairy Armadillo, Crab-eating Fox and Lowland Tapir. On this day we will also be searching for several key bird targets too, like Black-legged Seriema, Blue-and-yellow Tanager and White-fronted Woodpecker. We return to Campo’I under the cover of dark for a second night.
Day 5: Teniente Enciso National Park
The day will start out seeking birds like Blue-tufted Starthroat and Pale-crested Woodpecker. Afterwards, we depart for a drive to reach Teniente Enciso National Park. Quite different from the previous locality, it is the driest part of the country and characterized by low spiny shrubs and vegetation. We will check into a local ranger station, our accommodation for the next night. The park has waterholes which have been famously visited by Puma (very rare, and unlikely) and a habituated Lowland Tapir. In the afternoon we will do some birdwatching and then spend the night searching for mammals. We will drive the nearby roads in hopes of seeing bizarre Plains Viscachas and then proceed with a night and morning session around the waterholes.
Day 6: Cañada el Carmen Reserve and Aurora Chaqueña
We will drive the 75 miles (120 km) to Cañada del Carmen Reserve; an NGO-owned reserve is important as it protects a unique Chaco xeromorphic forest. As we drive, we will be searching for birds and if we are supremely lucky, we may see a Jaguarundi. The landscape is harsh and dry, dominated by cacti and shrubs. The open habitat and water scarcity makes the water holes here productive, with potential for the very difficult Geoffroy’s Cat. In the afternoon we head for Aurora Chaqueña. Another delightful private reserve in the midst of the farming zones that are the Chaco. This place supports a great selection of birds, but perhaps the scarcest amongst them is the Black-bodied Woodpecker. A large waterhole here can be great for mammals coming to drink, including Lowland Tapir and Giant Anteater, and hopefully we will see one of these amongst the more regular quarry such as the Greater Bulldog (Fishing) Bats and occasionally the spectacular Scissor-tailed Nightjars.
Day 7: Reserva Selva Serena
The Dry Chaco here supports a very similar avifauna to the Chaco Lodge area, and we may encounter more Crested Gallito, but it is the only likely place we will see Olive-crowned Crescentchest, a spectacular member of a small family with only a handful or relatives elsewhere on the continent. Our nocturnal activities will be seeking many of the same mammals we are looking for elsewhere on the trip, perhaps supplemented by a gorgeous Chaco or Striped Owls.
Day 8: Estancia Iparoma
After breakfast, we begin our drive to reach Estancia Iparoma. Upon arrival, we will get settled in and have lunch. Afterwards people can rest up for a long night of mammal watching to follow. In the late afternoon and night we will drive throughout the property and search for species like Southern Tamandua and Six-banded Armadillo, as well as any birds that are frequenting the area, including Chaco Chachalaca, Great Rufous Woodcreeper, Chaco Puffbird and Ultramarine Grosbeak. After dark and with some luck and patience, we may see the delightful Geoffroy’s Cat, odd almost deer like rodent Chacoan Mara, guinea-pigesque Lowland Yellow-toothed Cavy or Molina’s Hog-nosed Skunk.
Days 9 - 10: Laguna Capitan / Choco Lodge
We are headed into a part of the country that requires significant flexibility. The flocculating clay soils here make roads that are like concrete when dry, more like oil-covered ice when they are wet. Thus, our plans are very contingent on weather and road conditions. There are a variety of local lagoons and salt-pans nearby where we may see Chilaen Flamingo, Large-billed Terns and perhaps some early arriving shorebirds. The terrestrial cactus-laden dry Chaco supports the funky Crested Gallito and local Chaco Earthcreeper. We will spend two days in this rich area for mammals to increase our chances of seeing at least some of the elusive mammals there. The routines over these days will be the same, our mornings will start with a very early breakfast, before we drive to visit the waterholes. We should also get some close-up views of local birds, such as Many-colored Chaco Finch, Ringed Warbling Finch, and Golden-billed Saltator. Mammals such as Gray Brocket Deer, Tayra and South American Coati are also possible. We will spend the afternoons either driving the area around the dried-up lagoons, depending on the local activity and what we have seen by that stage. At nights we will spotlight the nearby area to search for species like Molina’s Hog-nosed Skunk, Pampas Fox, Lowland Tapir, Crab-eating Fox, and Gray Brocket Deer.
Day 11: Return to Monte Lindo
Today we make our way back towards Monte Lindo, a reserve we enjoyed on the first couple of days on tour. But because it’s got a lot to offer, we make a return visit so that we can unearth anything we missed the first time round.
Day 12: Estancia Playada to Asunción
Today we make the long drive back to Paraguay’s capital, Asunción. As we make the drive we will stop for lunch and check an old highway bridge for the potential of seeing several bat species. The Diminutive Serotine Bat is almost always present, but we also have a good chance at seeing the Brown Mastiff Bat. Later, the weather will either make or break the day. Again, we are dealing with potentially sticky soils if it rains, but if it doesn’t we can make our way towards the Estancia Playada area that’s quite different from anything we have explored thus far. We explore the fringes of the Mesopotamian (who knows why it’s called that) Grassland system, more associated with Argentina. A combination of native Papyrus and palm-strewn grasslands delivers a bunch of new species, Greater Thornbird, stunning White-browed Meadowlark, and a bevy of new seedeaters including Double-collared, Tawny-bellied and Rufous-rumped Seedeaters. If we make it all the way to the riparian forest strips near the Paraguay River, if we are very lucky, we may even encounter Black-and-Gold ‘Paraguay’ Howler Monkeys. Afterwards we will check in to our accommodation near the airport for departures the following day.
Day 13: Departures from Asunción/START OLIVARES EXTENSION
Today is set as a departure day, clients will receive transfer to the airport where our services end. Those embarking on the post tour extension will continue today with the extension (see below).
Olivares Reserve - 3 days
This 3-day post-tour extension will begin in Asunción and visit the Olivares Private Reserve. Here we will be visiting a section of the “Wet Chaco”, a more humid and tropical section of the Chaco Forest. Our target here is the Black-and-gold Howler Monkey, one of the largest New World primates as well as one of the loudest! These monkeys are regularly encountered, giving us a great chance to see them in their native range. We will also travel by boat along the Manduvira and Paraguay Rivers to enjoy several species of birds like Black Skimmer, Black-capped Donacobius, Gray Monjita and Striped Cuckoo. We will also go night walks to search for Chacoan Gracile Opossum and White-eared Opossum as well as reptiles and amphibians.
Extension Itinerary at a Glance:
Day 1: Asunción to Olivares Private Reserve/night Olivares Private Reserve cabins
Day 2: Olivares Private Reserve to Asunción/night Asunción
Day 3: Departures from Asunción
Trip Considerations
PACE: Moderate-Intense. Early mornings and late nights will offer us the best opportunities for wildlife activity, particularly for mammals. The timing of each day will vary slightly since some days we will prioritize nighttime activities, and other days we will prioritize early morning activities. Most days will allow for mid-day breaks, and we will be checked in to each night’s accommodation prior to nighttime activities, allowing guests to “sit it out” if needed. There are many single night stays on this tour, to cover more ground and increase our chances at getting a diverse list.
PHYSICAL DIFFICULTY: Easy-Moderate. Most major activities will be based around driving and sitting in near waterholes. Hiking will also be done to watch some mammal species as well as birds. Most birding activities will be done through short hikes on mostly flat terrain. Weather can always impact trail conditions and clients should be prepared with proper sun protection, rain gear, proper footwear for hiking, and hiking poles if needed. The toughest physical challenges on the tour will be long days of driving and sitting near waterholes waiting. The long days can also be physically impactful, so it is important for clients to pace themselves and sit out of certain activities when needed. Most roads we drive will be dirt roads and dusty and so can cause irritation in some cases due to prolonged exposure, this can be managed with over-the-counter antihistamines.
CLIMATE: The days can be hot and dry, with the daytime temperatures ranging from 80°F to 99°F (27°C to 37°C), with the possibility of 3–4-day heatwaves bringing up mid-day temperatures to 110°F (44°C). The nights are usually warm, but occasionally the temperature can drop to 41°F to 50°F (5°C to 10°C). Sun exposure is high, and skies are often clear, so sunscreen and protection are essential on this tour. We will be avoiding peak mid-day temperatures by remaining indoors or in vehicles with AC. Most, if not all, activities will be done in the early morning, late afternoon and night. We will not be visiting in the wet season, which is very beneficial to our tour. The vegetation will be less dense, and water will be limited to water holes, which will increase our chances of viewing elusive species seeking water during a dry period. However lighter showers are possible, so pack accordingly.
ACCOMMODATION: The localities we will be visiting do not receive many tourists, so accommodation options are sparse and limited. Accommodations vary from larger double rooms to more limited bunk-bed rooms (no one will have to use the top bunks), with occasionally shared bathroom spaces. We will have three meals a day, with almost all meals being prepared in the field by a local cook. The meals will be simple, but plentiful. Hotels typically have full-time electricity, but occasionally power cuts may occur. Many hotels will have WIFI, but it is not always reliable. Therefore, I would not expect a good WIFI signal to be available each day. Hot water and AC will be available in almost all accommodations except for Teniete Enciso NP and Canada el Carmen ranger stations, but fans will be provided during this time. Patience is appreciated but adaptability is required. We will be changing accommodations frequently (on most nights), and so there many one-night stays on this tour. There is no camping done on this tour. PLEASE NOTE: Single supplements may not be available in all locations, and shared bathrooms are fairly standard.
PHOTOGRAPHY: This is an Enigmatic Wildlife Tour, meaning photography is not the top priority. Assuring everyone sees the wildlife will take precedence over getting good photos. Most wildlife will be seen from vehicles, waterholes and trails. We will use flashlights to view mammals as they visit waterholes, and these instances will present the best mammal photography opportunities. As we walk trails in the morning and afternoon we will be searching for bird targets as well, which may present good field photography. Clients are welcome to bring camera gear for when any photo opportunities arise. Since we will be focusing on several groups of animals it would be best to bring an array of lenses. The most suitable lens would be a zoom lens with a focal length between 300mm and 500mm, to allow optimal reach for birds and mammals. For reptile, amphibian, invertebrate and plant photography a macro lens is best, between the 60mm and 105mm length.
GEAR: Binoculars are the most essential item for wildlife viewing, but photographers are encouraged to bring their cameras and lenses too. Due to the limited need for a scope, the guide will not be bringing a scope on this tour. If you would like to bring your own scope you may do so too. However, scopes will be difficult or impossible to use in the vehicles, so will only be useful occasionally. A tripod is always welcomed but keep in mind that all our photography will be opportunistic which means you will have to be quick and then can get in the way of this. Monopods are often a better, quicker and more portable option. However, neither a monopod nor tripod is necessary for this tour.
Proper hiking gear and attire is essential. Long pants are best due to the thorny and sharp nature of the forest. Light gloves are recommended for people on night sessions, especially those planning on spotlighting along with the guides. Sunglasses and wide-brim hats are essential too, for our walks in open areas with high levels of exposure to the sun. Mosquito head nets and insect repellent will not be provided, so if you are concerned about insects, it is good to bring both. Other gear requirements are good footwear (like hiking boots with good traction and ankle support), hiking poles, and a day backpack (something that will be sufficient for carrying camera gear, snacks, enough water, etc.), and sunscreen. Having a way to carry water on hikes is essential in order to avoid any heat exposure aliments, the water itself is provided but the reusable bottles are not. Hiking poles are encouraged (especially if you have any balance issues) due to the varying terrain and trail conditions we will experience. In case of rain, which is low, a waterproof bag and rain jacket are recommended. It’s always best to prepare for the worst conditions! Lastly, many activities will take place at night. A flashlight and/or rechargeable headlamp are essential. If you wish to get recommendations of good flashlights for wildlife observation, please contact Tropical Birding and we will be happy to give some of our guide recommendations. A small power bank is also very useful for recharging headlamps and phones during long periods in the field or longer drives.
WHEN TO GO: This is an excellent time to visit the Chaco, as we will be avoiding the wet season, which can cause issues such as adverse weather or washed-out roads, leading to more likely cancelation of activities. July, August and September are the best months since many mammals and birds are very active, the vegetation is also sparser at this time, and the limited water supply in the area can increase visitation of species to the few remaining waterholes. The temperatures are also at their most comfortable during this time.
Other Information
TRAVEL REQUIREMENTS: A valid passport is required; the passport must be valid for at least six months past your intended stay and should have at least on blank page. For tourist visitors, citizens of most western countries a visa can be obtained on arrival (although, please check this with your local consulate to see if anything has changed on this front!
WHAT’S INCLUDED?: Tips to drivers, local guides, and lodge staff; accommodation from the night of day 1 to the night of day 12 on the main tour; accommodation for one night on the extension, if taking part in that too; meals on the main tour from dinner on day 1 (unless you arrive too late for dinner service) to breakfast on day 13 (if you have a very early departing flight, you may miss the included breakfast on the last day); If taking the extension, the included meals are from breakfast on day 1 of this to breakfast on day 2 (unless you leave before breakfasts are served at the hotel); safe drinking water throughout; Tropical Birding tour leader with spotlights, mammal-watching and audio gear from the morning of day 2 to the night of day 12 on the main tour; from day 1 through to the morning of day 3 of the extension if joining that; one arrival and one departure airport transfer per person on designated arrival and departure days (transfers may be shared with other participants of the same tour or other guests at the same hotel); ground transport for the group to all sites in the itinerary from day 2 to day 12 of the main tour in a suitable vehicle with a local driver; and if taking the extension from the morning of day 1 through the morning of day 3 on that part; entrance fees to birding sites mentioned in the itinerary; a printed and bound checklist to keep track of your sightings (given to you at the start of the tour – only electronic copies can be provided in advance).
WHAT’S NOT INCLUDED?: Optional tips to the TROPICAL BIRDING tour leader; tips for luggage porters in any city hotels (if you require their services); international flights; snacks; additional drinks apart from those included; alcoholic beverages; travel insurance; excursions not included in the tour itinerary; extras in hotels such as laundry service, minibar, room service, telephone calls, and personal items; medical fees; other items or services not specifically mentioned as being included.
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